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FARNESE CRAZY How It Suddenly Became Cool Again to Drink Cheap Wine by Tomorrow

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FARNESE CRAZY How It Suddenly Became Cool Again to Drink Cheap Wine by Tomorrow F8 THE VANCOUVER SUN, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 22, 2003 MIX FARNESE CRAZY How it suddenly became cool again to drink cheap wine by tomorrow. Do you want a case?” Label, but even more impor- but they want to get something By KATHARINE HAMER It was the first time I’d ever seen such salesman- tant, Farnese is making it cool that actually tastes good.” ship from a government employee. to drink cheap wine again. And Introducing British Columbians was perusing the wine selection at the Cambie At $7.95 a bottle, Farnese sangiovese has become why not? After all, in France to flavourful wines that won’t Street liquor store when a clerk sidled up to my the Vancouver viticultural success story of the year. you don’t serve the high-end break the bank is something of a Ielbow. “Are you interested in buying some Far- In the last 12 months, the Liquor Distribution stuff as your vin de table. mission for Farnese’s importer, nese?” she murmured, in the fevered tones of a Branch has sold close to 50,000 cases. That makes it Farnese’s popularity has Michele Geris. As the owner small-time crack dealer. “It just came in, it’ll be gone the second biggest seller, next to Wolf Blass Yellow spread largely by word of (with her husband, George mouth, from friend to friend in Baugh) of Piccolo Mondo restau- living rooms across the city, rant, Geris is accustomed to find- from Commercial Drive to ing great wines for her customers. West Van — where they’re She decided in 1999 to start a wine “A MOST EXCELLENT COMEDY… CAN YOU SAY ‘PARTY’?” drinking the stuff “like it’s going importing business, and found TOM GLIATTO, PEOPLE MAGAZINE out of style,” according to Farnese on what she describes as David Scholefield, senior port- one of her “hunting trips” to folio manager for the LDB. For Europe. a while, trying to find even a Geris brought three Farnese single bottle was like searching wines to Scholefield’s attention: for the gold wrapper in a Willy the sangiovese, a primitivo and a Wonka chocolate bar. white wine, trebbiano — all now Late last year, just as the wave available through the LDB. She was about to crest, supplies says she knew instantly that the dwindled when incoming stock sangiovese in particular would was held hostage by an Ameri- suit the B.C. market. can dockworkers’ strike. Cases A key component in Chianti, of Farnese sat aboard stalled the sangiovese grape on its own ships in Seattle, Tacoma, Long has an earthy, peppery red cherry Beach and San Francisco. flavour. Produced in Ortona, Italy, By the time the wine reached south of Rome, the Farnese san- liquor stores, there was “a feed- BILL KEAY/VANCOUVER SUN giovese is a fruity, medium-bod- ing frenzy,” says Scholefield, Michele Geris with bottles of ied wine with “a nice finish in the who greenlighted Farnese’s mouth,” says Geris. “It goes with importation. Farnese trebbiano (left, a white a lot of different foods.” “The fact that it was unavail- wine) and sangiovese. “If I get excited about a product, able frequently increased its I have such a good feeling,” she mythic stature,” he says. “It generated this mael- says. “I’m almost 90 per cent sure that it can do well. strom of word of mouth. We had to order more and Being a restaurateur, you get to know what clients more to keep the pipeline full.” like. They want quality and they want price. Life is He recalls how the Cambie Street store “brought very expensive; it’s very expensive to live in Van- in a full pallet, 56 cases, on a Friday night. It was all couver. It’s like the Canadian Riviera: rents are piled on the floor. I arrived at 10:30 a.m. the next day expensive; everything is expensive here, so I don’t and there was one miserable case sitting on the pal- think you should underestimate the consumer.” let. There was devastation — ripped-up cases all A native of St. Tropez, France, Geris grew up in a over the place.” family of restaurateurs. When she first came to Van- The LDB brought Farnese in as part of a program couver, she was shocked by local mealtime habits. called Red Hot and New. Kickstarted in early 2001, “You can’t tell me,” she says, shaking her head in it was designed as a way to introduce consumers to distaste, “that having a nice piece of steak with a new international wines that were both satisfying cup of coffee works. in taste and available at a reasonable price. “I think with a good-quality wine at a very rea- Started as a pilot program at 12 of the LDB’s more sonable price, you can democratize wine drinking in “low-key” branches, Red Hot and New has become British Columbia. People can buy their $25, $30, $50 DREAMWORKS PICTURES PRESENTS A MONTECITO PICTURE COMPANY PRODUCTION A TODD PHILLIPS MOVIE a huge success. Pat yourselves on the back here, if you want, bottle of wine, for a special meal that EXECUTIVE PRODUCED STORY folks — part of that success is due to the fact that they’re going to make, but during the week they can “OLD SCHOOL”PRODUCERSIVAN REITMAN TOM POLLOCK BYDANIEL GOLDBERG JOE MEDJUCK TODD PHILLIPS BYCOURT CRANDALL AND TODD PHILLIPS & SCOT ARMSTRONG B.C. consumers are among the most sophisticated in have their case of Farnese in the garage and open a SCREENPLAY DIRECTED the world when it comes to wine drinking. We have bottle, make a lasagne or spaghetti or meatloaf or SEXUAL CONTENT, NUDITY, BYTODD PHILLIPS & SCOT ARMSTRONG BYTODD PHILLIPS the highest per capita consumption in North Amer- whatever and have their glass of wine and then cork COARSE LANGUAGE ica, and have always supported emerging regions the bottle; leave it on the counter for the following like Chile or South Africa long before anyone else. day, and it’s okay, because it’s not an investment — CINEPLEX ODEON CINEPLEX ODEON FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS And it’s a growing market: LDB wine revenues were it’s not like this special thing. I think that’s the way GRANDE STRAWBERRY HILL ✷ OAKRIDGE ✷ COLOSSUS LANGLEY ✷ THX SILVERCITY RIVERPORT ✷ THX SILVERCITY METROPOLIS ✷ THX up by over 20 per cent last year. wine should be.” FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS SILVERCITY GUILDFORD ✷ THX SILVERCITY COQUITLAM ✷ THX SILVERCITY MISSION ✷ CAPITOL 6 ✷ RICHMOND CENTRE 6 ✷ In the past, though, says wine expert Mark David- Although there are other popular wines in the son, “It’s been a challenge to get a decent wine Red Hot and New program, Scholefield says the FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS LANDMARK CINEMAS LANDMARK CINEMAS WHISTLER ESPLANADE 6 ✷ EAGLE RIDGE ✷ THX PARAMOUNT CHILLIWACK ✷ ABBOTSFORD TOWNE ✷ VILLAGE 8 CINEMEAS ✷ under 10 bucks.” Farnese craze is “a unique phenomenon. There has- The director of wine programs at the Dubrulle n’t been a wine this talked about in B.C. for ages and NOW PLAYING! CHECK THEATRE DIRECTORIES FOR SHOWTIMES NO PASSES ACCEPTED ✷ DIGITAL SOUND Culinary School notes that our fascination with ages — if ever. People don’t typically go out and buy Farnese is indicative of a burgeoning trend. a case of wine after work. When people get interested in wine, he says, they “It’s such an unbelievable story that [Geris] pulled start off buying the high-end expensive labels. this off — it’s amazing. It’s like a one-woman show. SPECIAL ADVANCE PREVIEW “Then they think, ‘I want to get something I can There was an audience for it, and thank God she did drink on a daily basis that I don’t have to get anoth- this. We should all be thankful.” er mortgage on the house for.’ “Farnese has some interesting characteristics. It’s Katharine Hamer is a Vancouver-based freelance TONIGHT something you can have with pizza three or four writer. She last wrote for MIX about Paul and Audrey nights a week. They could very easily get jug wines, Grescoe’s The Book of Letters. “It Will Keep Your Pulse Racing And Your Heart Pounding...Until Its Suspenseful, ” Shocking, Mind-blowing Conclusion! Clay Smith, ACCESS HOLLYWOOD “UPROARIOUS, OUTRAGEOUS AND IRRESISTIBLE!” Jim Svejda, KNX/CBS RADIO TOUCHSTONE PICTURES PRESENTs A DAVID HOBERMAN / ASHOK AMRITRAJ PRODUCTION A FILM BY ADAM SHANKMAN STEVE MARTIN MUSIC MUSIC CO- QUEEN LATIFAH “BRINGING DOWN THE HOUSE” EUGENE LEVY JEAN SMART AND JOAN PLOWRIGHT SUPERVISORMICHAEL MCQUARN BYLALO SCHIFRIN PRODUCERTODD LIEBERMAN ANALAN PARKERFILM COSTUME PRODUCTION EXECUTIVE PRODUCED DESIGNERPAMELA WITHERS-CHILTON DESIGNER LINDA DESCENNA PRODUCERS JANE BARTELME QUEEN LATIFAH BYDAVID HOBERMAN ASHOK AMRITRAJ WRITTEN DIRECTED BYJASON FILARDI BYADAM SHANKMAN VIOLENCE, DRUG USE, Distributed by BUENA VISTA PICTURES DISTRIBUTION PG COARSE AND SEXUAL LANGUAGE movies.yahoo.com/house ©TOUCHSTONE PICTURES UNIVERSAL PICTURES AND INTERMEDIA FILMS PRESENT A SATURN FILMS/DIRTY HANDS PRODUCTION KEVIN SPACEY KATE WINSLET LAURA LINNEY MUSIC CO-EXECUTIVE LINE CO- "THE LIFE OF DAVID GALE"GABRIEL MANN BYALEX PARKER JAKE PARKER PRODUCERNORM GOLIGHTLY PRODUCERDAVID WIMBURY PRODUCERLISA MORAN EXECUTIVE PRODUCED WRITTEN DIRECTED PRODUCERS MORITZ BORMAN GUY EAST NIGEL SINCLAIR BY ALAN PARKER NICOLAS CAGE BYCHARLES RANDOLPH BYALAN PARKER SOUNDTRACK ON DECCA /UMG SOUNDTRACKS A UNIVERSAL PICTURE © 2002 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS SOUNDTRACK FEATURING “ANOTHER BLEEDING HEART” BY ALEX PARKER CINEMARK FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS CINEPLEX ODEON NOW PLAYING! TINSELTOWN 12 ✔ SILVERCITY RIVERPORT✔ COLOSSUS LANGLEY✔ PARK & TILFORD ✔ SPECIAL ADVANCE PREVIEW TONIGHT CINEPLEX ODEON CINEPLEX ODEON FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS LANDMARK STRAWBERRY COQUITLAM GUILDFORD MISSION GRAND FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS FAMOUS PLAYERS PRESENTED IN HILL ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ PRESENTED IN THE GRANDE OAKRIDGE SILVERCITY SILVERCITY SILVERCITY ABBOTSFORD SILVERCITY RIVERPORT SILVERCITY METROPOLIS SILVERCITY COQUITLAM COLOSSUS LANGLEY✔ CAPITOL 6 THX LANDMARK CRITERION FAMOUS PLAYERS PRESENTED IN A PRESENTED IN 14 NUDITY, COARSE LANGUAGE, PARAMOUNT COQUITLAM RIALTO✔ ✔ THX CHECK THEATRE DIRECTORIES FOR SHOWTIMES CHILLIWACK PINETREE 6 ✔ WHITE ROCK STATION SQ.
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