Ultimate Guitar Online's Revisions: Instrument
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Depth Of Holes For Rollers Can 39.7 330.0 43.5 30.7 Vary With Tuning Machine Mfr. Dashed Lines Indicate Outline Of Re-Constituted Ivory Or Excellent Quality Neck Block Where It Meets The Bone For the Nut. (4500 58.0 Top. H Shaded Area Indicates 1/16" Cedar 7.9 Bridge Plate Glued To The Underside Of E The Top Place. Notch Fan Bracing Over The Top Of The Bridge Plate. 15.9 R 42.1 (4500 J 78.5 38.0 50.8 63.5 53.2 65.1 73.0 368.5 230.1 15.9 16.4 !$$&<,"&=+,-%) 7.9 >00&1?3% (4500 E String Ramps K 37.0 35.0 258.0 4.8 34.9 21.8 20.8 Classical Guitar Bridge Complete 37.0 34.9 Back Block or Butt Block. Vertical Grain With Tie Block, Saddle Channel And Cedar Or Spruce Minimum 20 Grains/ Either Bone Or Ivory Saddle. Center In. Some Luthiers Shave This Block or (4500 On 660mm Scale Length Both 128.6 Rossette - Usually L Angle It Away From The Top As This Prefabricated. But You Can Vertically and Horizontally. Block Often Gives A Guitar A "Hump" A Make Them Yourself. In The Top And Can Cause Cracking. Cut Slots Into Headstock After Drilling Holes For Fret Wire Detail !"#$%&'(%)%&*+,-%)&./+ Machine Head Rollers. Make A Template To ,&0/+%&)1%%'&)/2"3 Locate Holes And Drile Precisely With A Drill D Press. Cut String Ramps In With A Round Rasp and Final Shape With Sandpaper Wrapped Around (4500 A Dowel. B M Kerfed Lining Made From Either Basswood Or Cedar. Many Spanish Classicals Use Solid Kerfing For The Back Plate Attachment. If You Choose To Do That Make Sure The Kerfing Is Pre-Bent Prior To Gluing. Do Not Introduce Stress Into The Guitar Materials: Tips and Techniques: Methods: Methods - Continued: Methods - Continued: Assemble the proper materials before you begin your project. If you don't have your tone wood Always make sure your tools are razor sharp and not dull. Buy good sharpening stones or Start by sanding your top plate, back plate and sides to rough thickness (within 1mm of final Now you should assemble the guitar neck. I recommed Cuban Mahogany because it is light and Now fit the top to the sides. Trim the top to fit exactly inside the inside form. Drop the sides on top already, there are several great suppliers including LMI (Luthier's Merchantile) which has a wide sharpening grinders such as the Tormek sharpener. thickness). Carefully glue the center joints of the back and sides together. When gluing the back, strong. Cut the Head scarf joint with a band saw first. Prepare this joint so it is perfectly tight. Next, and glue the sides to the top with individual blocks. These should be about 1/2 to 3/4" long range of top and back and side wood available. If this is your first guitar, you may want to try wood you will wand to insert your decorative center strip at the same time. This should be pre-assembled cut the blank to size and capture any blocks you can to glue to the heel/foot assembly. Now cut the depending of the contour they encounter and should be only set into place by hand and not that is a bit less expensive for your first try, such as mahogany for backs and sides or walnut, which If you use stationary tools, make sure the blades on your bandsaw, tablesaw, jointer etc. are also if you have multiple colors. neck blank right down the center and flip the grain so it is opposed and working against each other. clamped as this adds undue stress to the guitar top plate. is about 50 to 33% of the cost of the Rosewoods etc. very sharp and you do not have to force wood through the machines. Slip a 6mm strip of Ebony between the halves and prepare all pieces in a similar manner to the To prepare the joints, sand carefully with sandpaper glued to a perfectly straight edge. I like to use plate joints - or if you have a stationary drum sander, just run all the pieces through that. Prepare Now you can glue the back plate to the sides by using 3/4" elastic tape, rubber bands or spindel When you order wood make sure you order wood that is at least 1" oversized in each direction so You can never have enough jigs, templates etc. in guitar-making. If you plan to continue beyond this adhesive backed sandpaper in rolled and stick it to the side of a 24" metal level. Trim the sandpaper the other half of the scarf joint so you will have a good joint for the headstock trim. clamps. Get even pressure, but DO NOT FORCE anything - no stress here either. you can eliminate splits etc. 2" is even better and quite often accomodated with tone wood. Make guitar and make several others, templates and jigs are a must more making your work a lot easier. carefully. Use 120 grit paper and do not use a lot of force. The plates are joined most easily with a sure the tops and backs are bookmatched for grain pattern. cam-action jig while using a piece of wood on the top to keep things in alignment. Of course use Glue the heel/foot block on the neck - all the while checking with your neck template. Once the neck Next is the time to trim the plates, rout purfling groove around the edge of the guitar and fit the If you are starting from scratch, building guitars, make sure you make excellent quality forms for waxed paper wherever you risk having your wood stuck to the jig - or coat the jig with wax. has dryed, do a final sanding on a stationary belt sander for the headstock and double-check the purfling. With groove cleaned out, nice tight fit and everything cut to length, glue on the purfling. Neck blanks can be Cuban Mahogany. This is a very lightweight but very strong wood. Fretboards your guitar. Both inside and outside forms for the body assembly. Lood at LMI's side bending thickness of the head. Now glue the headstock trim and purfling and set aside to dry. should be clear Ebony, solid and you will have to buy 2 of them to allow you to add the Ebony machine. It works great and you can pump out a lot of bent sides in a short time. Once glued (If you use Rosewood, be sure to get all of the resin out of the wood with acetone Rough sand the sides, back and top plates and round the edge of the purfling. reinforcing to the center of the neck. before you glue anything. Trace your top and back on the wood - use a white pencil for dark wood. Next rough-cut the heel and foot/endblock shape of the neck on the bandsaw, keeping things true Put together the templates we have shown here at a bare minimum. You should have a template to Then run the top and back through a wide stationary belt sander - or use scrapers and hand and plumb. Remember to always cut a bit outside the lines to allow for slight error. Now rough cut Next sand the fingerboard to thickness, cut to correct width and final sand the edges on a stationary Most suppliers will have brace wood available, which is split from to log so there isn't any runout in trace your basic guitar shape, your top and back brace locations, Your neck and foot profile and the sanding methods. the head after tracing with your headstock template. Sand the sides to final shape and size and drill belt sander.