Greater Antilles Jamaica, Cuba, Dominican Republic, and Puerto Rico (and Cayman Islands) Todies and Tyrants A Greentours Tour Report th th 27 November to 18 December 2014 Led by Paul Cardy Trip report written by Paul Cardy Introduction This ambitious tour of all the main Greater Antillean islands gives the chance to see a wealth of single island and regional endemic birds, butterflies and reptiles. Some 110 endemic birds were recorded, including all five of the world’s todys, endemic to the region. Our trip took us through five remarkably contrasting countries and cultures. Beautiful scenery, from the misty Blue Mountains of Jamaica, to the swamps of Cuba’s Zapata peninsula, Dominican Republic’s forested mountains, and the Guanica Dry Forest in Puerto Rico characterised the journey. A remarkably varied tour, illustrated by the Cuban example of watching Blue-headed Quail-Doves on forest trails in Zapata, and also experiencing the vibrancy of fascinating Old Havana. A feature was the incredible views we had of many rare endemic birds, such as Chestnut-bellied Cuckoo and both endemic parrots on Jamaica; Bee Hummingbird, Fernadina’s Flicker, and Zapata Wren on Cuba; Hispaniolan Woodpecker and Black-crowned Palm-Tanager in Dominican Republic; and Elfin Woods Warbler on Puerto Rico. There were some very special butterflies too such as Grand Cayman Swallowtail, Jamaican Monarch, two species of Anetia, Haitian Snout, Haitian Admiral, Cuban Emperor, Dusky Emperor, Cuban Lucinia, Cuban Dagger Tail, seven species of Calisto, and Haitian Pygmy Skipper. One area in Hispaniola, discovered on the previous visit, proved especially good for butterflies. An added attraction is some good snorkeling opportunities, and the bioluminescent bays in Puerto Rico, lit by phosphorescent dinoflagellates. Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 1 JAMAICA Day 1 Thursday 27th November Arrival in Jamaica Most of us met at Heathrow, from where we flew to Miami. There immigration and security procedures were really not too bad at all, and we had the ideal amount of time for the connection. The fact this was Thanksgiving Day meant many empty seats on the flight, and a rather quiet Miami airport as many people were not traveling today. The short flight to Kingston was in the early evening and we had good views of the lights of Cuba en route. Our arrival in Jamaica coincided with Joerg’s Delta flight from Atlanta, so although it was good that all the group were now here, the queues at immigration were rather long with two large aircraft arriving at once. As usual Kingston airport was a pleasure, and the staff were welcoming and friendly. Rico, our driver was there to meet us as arranged and after sorting a few practicalities such as changing money and stocking up on bottled water, we set off, driving around the outskirts of Kingston and up along the windy roads into the Blue Mountains. At Strawberry Hill the gate staff finally let us in (!) and we very gladly settled into the good rooms, the balconies affording fine views down to the sprawling lights of Kingston. The two note calls of the frog Eleutherodactylus johnstonei were a constant soundtrack. I’d phoned ahead from the airport and asked the restauarant to stay open for us, ordering the Thanksgiving Day menu for all. This we enjoyed on the verandah, pleased to now be in tranquil surroundings, tired but full of enthusiasm for the forthcoming tour. Day 2 Friday 28th November Blue Mountains We were keen to be up and exploring the lovely gardens of Strawberry Hill, where the views down to the expanse of Kingston were still stunning. Drinking my tea on the balcony I watched Black- throated Blue Warblers and Vervain Hummingbirds, and White-chinned Thrush was much in evidence. We met at the beautiful small restaurant for an excellent breakfast. This was a leisurely affair, but there was much to watch while we waited. Bananaquits kept us amused, and Turkey Vulture occasionally soared over. There was also a Red-tailed Hawk in the air. The surrounding trees comprised a mixture such as West Indian Mahogany, Blue Mahoe, Mango, Caribbean Pine, and Teak. The butterflies Zebra Heliconians and Cloudless Sulphurs were already on the wing, and Canna Skipper was seen. There were several of the lizard Anolis garmani, the green adults with orange dewlaps being particularly attractive. After breakfast we set out on an exploratory walk of a track outside the hotel perimeter, a fine level path. A weedy patch of flowers attracted many butterflies, especially nectaring on the Tridax procumbens. Highlight was probably the attractive endemic satyrid Calisto zangis. There were several Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 2 Dryas iulia, the tailed skipper Urbanus proteus, and the lovely green hairstreak Chlorostrymon simaethis, also seen here on our last visit. Little Sulphur, Tailed Orange, Dina Yellow, Barred Yellow, and Dainty Sulphur represented the pierids, and Gulf Fritillary, Gold-spotted Aguna, and Common Dusky Wing continued the variety. Among the flowers there were widespread weedy species such as Emilia fosbergii, and Desmodium species, and regional specialities such as the iris Butterball Trimezia martinicensis, and the sedge Dichromena colorata. The buzz of the wings of the many stunning Red-billed Streamertails was a more or less constant accompaniment. Zenaida Dove and Yellow-faced Grassquit were here too, and the endemic Arrow- headed Warbler was in the gardens. Rico and Joan arrived and we drove up to Hardwar Gap, a beautiful short journey to the fascinating habitat on either side of the pass above the hotel. The roads were as ever twisty and slow even though the distance on a map seems so short. Through the garrison settlement of Newcastle and once in good habitat I chose a first stop. Here Orangequit, Arrow-headed Warbler, Jamaican Woodpecker, and Jamaican Spindalis were among the birds. The red gesneriacean Achimenes erecta was in flower, as was the monocot Hypoxis decumbens. An interesting red flowered terrestrial orchid was probably Sacoila lanceolata. The mistletoe with flattened stems was Dendrophthora opuntioides, and the cactus Rhipsalis baccifera tumbled from branches. The pink flowered sorrel was Oxalis debilis corymbosa, the attractive Browallia americana was in flower, and the allium like Nothoscordum inodorum was naturalised here. Bidens reptans tomentosa had pinnate leaves, and the broom like composite was Baccharis scoparia. Butterflies were fewer at this higher altitude, but the endemic Eurema adaamsi was seen, within view of Newcastle, where the specimen painted in the Riley field guide was taken. Many Zebras were on the wing. Lunch was conviently eaten in a cafe just below the pass, although the selection was somewhat limited, most things on the menu being unavailable! Red-billed Streamertails were much in evidence at the feeders here, and we also saw Black-faced Grassquits. A rather wet Merlin perched atop a bare tree was a surprise record. The clouds had gathered and there was a little rain, and in the afternoon the northern side of the pass was rather wet and foggy. Nevertheless we walked slowly down the road towards the village of Section. There were several of the endemic White-eyed Thrush, and the endemic Rufous-tailed Flycatcher was seen. Tree Ferns were now a feature and there were more lush epiphytes on this side of the pass. Greentours Natural History Holidays www.greentours.co.uk 3 Perhaps our main target here was the elusive and unobtrusive icterid, Jamaican Blackbird. This unusual species forages in bromelaids and along mossy trunks. This site and one in the north-east, are the two most reliable in which to find this scarce species. Today we had brief views of one of these special birds, in the mist, and that would be all this year. Last visit we had fine prolonged views in fine conditions at almost the same spot. The Melastomataceae were a feature of the area, with species of Conostegia, Mecranium, Meriania, and Miconia. Piper aduncum had distinctive recurved flower spikes, and the climbing bamboo Chusquea abietifolia scrambled over the vegetation. The endemic Schefflera sciadophyllum was here, and the begonias were Begonia glabra and Begonia minor. The roadsides were dominated by the alien ginger Hedychium coronarium. A highlight was the two Jamaican Todies that I spotted as we walked. This was the first representative of an endemic Greater Antillean family that we would see all five members of during the tour. Nearly every individual allowed a close approach and fine views. The weather showed little sign of improving so we decided it was best to head back, along the windy roads to the lodge. We had enjoyed a very productive first day. That evening at dinner we admired a very small snake, a young Arrhyton funereum, small enough to fit in a specimen pot! Day 3 Saturday 29th November Blue Mountains, Kingston, to Port Antonio The rain overnight had to be heard to be believed, it was heavy and relentless. At dawn it lightened a little, but unfortunately the day remained very wet indeed, the whole island experiencing a cold front arriving from North America. We left at 6 a.m. and drove back up to Hardwar Gap to spend the first part of the morning in the fine habitat there. There were even a few short periods when the rain abated enough, and the dry spells enabled us to see several things of interest. But it was very frustrating to know how productive the area is and that the weather greatly limited our findings today. The drive up was exciting with water rushing down the road where streams and fords had overflowed onto the tarmac. On the northern side of the pass we made our first stop and waited inside the vehicles for the rain to ease of.