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THE SEARCH for the PERFECT PASTIE PART 2 (East-West No.2 2017)

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THE SEARCH for the PERFECT PASTIE PART 2 (East-West No.2 2017) THE SEARCH FOR THE PERFECT PASTIE PART 2 (East-West No.2 2017) After a week or so in and around Alice Springs doing our own thing our group assembled outside the G’day Mate caravan park to continue our journey west. Some of us been to Chambers Pillar and the East Macs while others had played golf and taken in the attractions of Alice including the Pasties at Wicked Kneads in the centre of town. Also as I have been told happened on other East-West trips several of us had spent sums of money on repairs, replacements and additions to our vehicles and vans, so we could comfortably complete the trip. Among other things Colin and Kay’s white Cruiser was now sporting a very bright red Pre-filter on its Snorkel raising comparisons with Rudolf from some of the group. First up after leaving Alice we were headed to the West Macs and spent days walking and nights camping at Ellery Creek Big Hole and Ormiston Gorge before driving into Gosses Bluff and finally having lunch at the historic precinct at Hermansberg before finding a free camp about an hour out of Alice Springs. After much discussion the group had decided not to do the Mereenie Loop so we had a quick stop in Alice before heading south down the bitumen bound for Kings Canyon. Rather than try to make it all the way to the Canyon we camped up at the Salt Creek Rest Area and used it as a base for the vans so we could do a day trip and do the walks in and around Kings Canyon. From Salt Creek we headed on to Yulara stopping on the way to check out Mt.Connor. The wow factor here for some of the group turned out not to be Mt.Connor but the salt lake to the north that can be seen from the top of the dune opposite the car park on the main road. This was in part due to the wet weather we had encountered when we passed Lake Eyre on the Oodnadatta Track which had denied us a good view of the lake there. Our last stop before Yalara was at Curtin Springs where Sigi snaffled the last Pastie while I had to settle for a Sausage Roll. Three nights at Yulara gave us plenty of time to see the sights of Uluru and Kata Tjuta and well as for some of us to cycle - beats walking - around the rock and walk the trails at Kata Tjuta. This was our last chance to reprovision and refuel at a reasonable price before heading across the Great Central Road as well as locate those pesky permits to cross the Aboriginal Lands. One thing we did learn though was not to expect to replenish your Alcohol supplies at Yulara unless you are will to pay $120 a carton and have a yen for Light Beer. After so many days on the tar it was great to be back on the gravel once we turned off onto the GCR at Kata Tjuta. After encountering several rough sections on the first day we took a break at Lasseters Cave. This was said to be the cave in which a weakened Lasseter sheltered during the 1930’s after failing to find the reef of gold he supposedly located on an earlier visit to the area. After leaving the cave and trying to reach civilisation on foot he subsequently died and the possible location of the reef of gold died with him. By mid afternoon we had reached the picturesque campground at Docker River. Unfortunately all the toilets have been vandalised but despite that it still a proved to be a good overnight stop. Next day we had a short days travel stopping only to take photos at the WA border and the Len Beadell Plaque before setting up camp around midday at the Warakurna Roadhouse so we could visit Australia’s most remote Weather Station which is nearby to watch the release of the weather balloon. Balloons are released twice daily from Giles Weather Station to check out what’s happening in the upper atmosphere. Giles also has a small museum which features a wall mural by legendary road builder Len Beadell which was enjoyed by the group. As the road surface improved greatly after crossing the WA border we were making good time. There is even 25km of bitumen west of Warburton. In the following days we stopped at points of interest such as the White Cross and the Gnama Holes as well as finding a couple of good free camps at the Old Quarry and The Pines before completing the GCR and booking into the Caravan Park at Leonora. It was here we met Life Members David and Jenny Thomas who were fresh from a stint of Gold Prospecting outside Laverton where they told us the first East West group had dropped in on them. Before leaving the Leonora area we stopped in at the former gold town of Gwalia which now features a Museum and the palatial Hoover House the Mine Managers residence in its day that was designed By Herbert Hoover, the first mine manager who later became President of the United States. From Leonora it was south to Menzies on the tar before hitting the gravel again and making our way to overnight at Lake Ballard the home of the Inside Australia sculptures. It was third time lucky for Trish and I as the previous two times we had been to WA the road to the lake had been closed by rain so it was great to finally make it and climb the hill in the centre of the salt lake before settling down for a peaceful nights camp. An uneventful trip up the gravel had us in Sandstone by early afternoon in time to explore the local area with London Bridge being one of the highlights. We also ran into David and Jenny again and shared a meal with them at Sandstones’ historic National Hotel. Next morning we found the back road across to Cue with a quick stop at Garden Rock before setting up at the Caravan Park for a couple of nights. Cue is an interesting town in some ways but a little sad as most of the shops in the main street are boarded up but some of the stone buildings are being restored in an effort to breath new life into the town. We used our two night stay in Cue to explore the ghost town of Big Bell and Walga Rock which are both an easy drive from town. Big Bell was once a thriving mining town but when the mine closed in the early 1960’s the people slowly drifted away and all that is left now are the ruins of the once grand hotel, which was said to have the longest bar in Australia, and the Catholic Church. Walga Rock which Western Australian claims is the second largest Monolith in Australia, features Aboriginal art work under one of its overhangs which we found very interesting. With the weather turning very arctic on our second night in Cue we were glad to be heading north west the following morning and after many twists and turns after we found our way to Murchison Settlement which boasts a campground with grass, something we hadn’t had the pleasure of camping on for some time. The Murchison Shire is the only shire in WA that does not have a town within its boundaries with the small Settlement being the only population centre. As we left Murchison Settlement we were now getting the sense that our journey was nearly at an end as we headed across the Butchers Track and then past the overlander Roadhouse and turned toward Shark Bay and arrived at our nominated camp at Hamelin Station – our base to visit Steep Point. After a down day to let everyone catch up on washing, shopping or Pastie eating in Denham or just relax at camp it was up at seven the next morning to achieve our goal. Just to prolong the agony a bit we visited the blowholes at False Entrance before bumping and bouncing our way to the point and tipping our Pacific water into the Indian Ocean. Back at Hamelin Station that evening we got together for our last supper together and we were joined by members Graeme and Kerryn Blowes on their way home from the first East-West crossing group. On our last night we were given a Thankyou card which contained a poem which I think sums up our trip fairly well: We came together a long time ago with a single view, to go Westward Ho! With Pacific Water from Byron Bay we towed our wagons to be here this day. We’ve been through dust and mud and rain to Steep Point’s sand where we find this train. We’ve crossed Australia thru’ places with odd names (like Tibooburra) led from the front by the brave Trish and James. And so we watch as our last campfire’s lit feeling joy, relief and sorrow just a bit. With our goal now achieved our homes do beckon. We go with new friends and good memories we reckon. Many thanks to our fellow travellers for the camaraderie we shared on our journey. I hope you enjoyed the trip as much as we did and I bet you were glad you were not eating our dust on your journey home. Words: James Holden Poem: Carl Garley Photos: Trish Holden .
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