Elbridge Ayer Burbank Collection MS.577
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Styling by the Sea 140 Years of Beachwear
Styling by the Sea 140 Years of Beachwear Beach Fashions in the 1930s The stock market crash on Tuesday, October 29, 1929, and the subsequent deterioration in the value of business assets over the following three years, had a devastating impact on the economies of United States and the world at large. The high flying,care-free days of the Roaring ‘20s were over and with them went the risk taking and pushing of boundaries that characterized the lives of people during the decade. The Great Depression had begun and would continue for ten years. Spending on luxuries declined as disposable cash became scarce and people grew more fiscally conservative. Concern about employment and their long term financial prospects became paramount as the atmosphere of the country became serious and sober. Businesses closed and jobs were cut by many companies due to falling demand for their products. This caused a domino effect that resulted in economic stagnation and the deep economic depression. Luckily the pleasures derived from time spent on the beach remained an affordable and welcome means of escape from the harsh realities of everyday life. The cover of the September 3, 1932 issue of The Saturday Evening Post presented above shows a rollicking image of life at the shore at the close of summer on Labor Day Weekend. The lifeguard sits calmly on his stand, eyes closed, while pretty girls preen, an amorous swain serenades his gal who is attired in the latest “beach pajamas”, boys play leapfrog, dogs bark, babies shovel sand into pales and bathers, both large and small, hold on to a rope to save them from being knocked over by waves. -
2017 Fernald Caroline Dissert
UNIVERSITY OF OKLAHOMA GRADUATE COLLEGE THE VISUALIZATION OF THE AMERICAN SOUTHWEST: ETHNOGRAPHY, TOURISM, AND AMERICAN INDIAN SOUVENIR ARTS A DISSERTATION SUBMITTED TO THE GRADUATE FACULTY in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY By CAROLINE JEAN FERNALD Norman, Oklahoma 2017 THE VISUALIZATION OF THE AMERICAN SOUTHWEST: ETHNOGRAPHY, TOURISM, AND AMERICAN INDIAN SOUVENIR ARTS A DISSERTATION APPROVED FOR THE SCHOOL OF VISUAL ARTS BY ______________________________ Dr. W. Jackson Rushing, III, Chair ______________________________ Mr. B. Byron Price ______________________________ Dr. Alison Fields ______________________________ Dr. Kenneth Haltman ______________________________ Dr. David Wrobel © Copyright by CAROLINE JEAN FERNALD 2017 All Rights Reserved. For James Hagerty Acknowledgements I wish to extend my most sincere appreciation to my dissertation committee. Your influence on my work is, perhaps, apparent, but I am truly grateful for the guidance you have provided over the years. Your patience and support while I balanced the weight of a museum career and the completion of my dissertation meant the world! I would certainly be remiss to not thank the staff, trustees, and volunteers at the Millicent Rogers Museum for bearing with me while I finalized my degree. Your kind words, enthusiasm, and encouragement were greatly appreciated. I know I looked dreadfully tired in the weeks prior to the completion of my dissertation and I thank you for not mentioning it. The Couse Foundation, the University of Oklahoma’s Charles M. Russell Center, and the School of Visual Arts, likewise, deserve a heartfelt thank you for introducing me to the wonderful world of Taos and supporting my research. A very special thank you is needed for Ginnie and Ernie Leavitt, Carl Jones, and Byron Price. -
Jean Harlow ~ 20 Films
Jean Harlow ~ 20 Films Harlean Harlow Carpenter - later Jean Harlow - was born in Kansas City, Missouri on 3 March 1911. After being signed by director Howard Hughes, Harlow's first major appearance was in Hell's Angels (1930), followed by a series of critically unsuccessful films, before signing with Metro-Goldwyn- Mayer in 1932. Harlow became a leading lady for MGM, starring in a string of hit films including Red Dust (1932), Dinner At Eight (1933), Reckless (1935) and Suzy (1936). Among her frequent co-stars were William Powell, Spencer Tracy and, in six films, Clark Gable. Harlow's popularity rivalled and soon surpassed that of her MGM colleagues Joan Crawford and Norma Shearer. By the late 1930s she had become one of the biggest movie stars in the world, often nicknamed "The Blonde Bombshell" and "The Platinum Blonde" and popular for her "Laughing Vamp" movie persona. She died of uraemic poisoning on 7 June 1937, at the age of 26, during the filming of Saratoga. The film was completed using doubles and released a little over a month after Harlow's death. In her brief life she married and lost three husbands (two divorces, one suicide) and chalked up 22 feature film credits (plus another 21 short / bit-part non-credits, including Chaplin's City Lights). The American Film Institute (damning with faint praise?) ranked her the 22nd greatest female star in Hollywood history. LIBERTY, BACON GRABBERS and NEW YORK NIGHTS (all 1929) (1) Liberty (2) Bacon Grabbers (3) New York Nights (Harlow left-screen) A lucky few aspiring actresses seem to take the giant step from obscurity to the big time in a single bound - Lauren Bacall may be the best example of that - but for many more the road to recognition and riches is long and grinding. -
Ezrasarchives2015 Article2.Pdf (514.9Kb)
Ezra’s Archives | 27 From Warfare to World Fair: The Ideological Commodification of Geronimo in the Late Nineteenth and Early Twentieth-Century United States Kai Parmenter A Brief History: Geronimo and the Chiricahua Apaches Of all the Native American groups caught in the physical and ideological appropriations of expansionist-minded Anglo-Americans in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, the Apache are often framed by historiographical and visual sources as distinct from their neighboring bands and tribes.1 Unlike their Arizona contemporaries the Navajo and the Hopi, who were ultimately relegated to mythical status as domesticated savage and artistic curiosity, the Apache have been primarily defined by their resistance to Anglo-American subjugation in what came to be known as the Apache Wars. This conflict between the Apache bands of southeastern Arizona and northern Mexico—notably the Chiricahua, the primary focus of this study—and the United States Army is loosely defined as the period between the conclusion of the Mexican-American War in 1848 and the final surrender of Geronimo and Naiche to General Nelson A. Miles in September 1886. Historian Frederick W. Turner, who published a revised and annotated edition of Geronimo’s 1906 oral autobiography, 1 The terms “Anglo-American,” “Euro-American” and “white American” are used interchangeably throughout the piece as a means of avoiding the monotony of repetitious diction. The same may be applied to Geronimo, herein occasionally referred to as “infamous Chiricahua,” “Bedonkohe leader,” etc. 28 | The Ideological Commodification of Geronimo in the Late Nineteenth and Early Twentieth-Century United States notes that early contact between the Chiricahua and white Americans was at that point friendly, “probably because neither represented a threat to the other.”2 Yet the United States’ sizable land acquisitions following the Mexican-American War, coupled with President James K. -
Frederick Jackson Turner and Buffalo Bill Richard White
Frederick Jackson Turner and Buffalo Bill Richard White Americans have never had much use for history, but we do like anniversaries. In 1893 Frederick Jackson Turner, who would become the most eminent historian of his generation, was in Chicago to deliver an academic paper at the historical congress convened in conjunction with the Columbian Exposition. The occasion for the exposition was a slightly belated celebration of the four hundredth anniversary of Columbus's arrival in the Western Hemisphere. The paper Turner presented was "The Significance of the Frontier in American History." 1 Although public anniversaries often have educational pretensions, they are primarily popular entertainments; it is the combination of the popular and the educational that makes the figurative meeting of Buffalo Bill and Turner at the Columbian Exposition so suggestive. Chicago celebrated its own progress from frontier beginnings. While Turner gave his academic talk on the frontier, Buffalo Bill played, twice a day, "every day, rain or shine," at "63rd St—Opposite the World's Fair," before a covered grandstand that could hold eighteen thousand people.2 Turner was an educator, an academic, but he had also achieved great popular success because of his mastery of popular frontier iconography. Buffalo Bill was a showman (though he never referred to his Wild West as a show) with educational pretensions. Characteristically, his program in 1893 bore the title Buffalo Bill's Wild West and Congress of Rough Riders of the World (Figure 1).3 In one of the numerous endorsements reproduced in the program, a well-known midwestern journalist, Brick Pomeroy, proclaimed the exhibition a ''Wild West Reality . -
1937-06-08 [P A-3]
gist. Throughout most of the distance head winds prevailed. I dare say they * Recent of averaged 20 miles an hour for the first Jean Harlow at half of Glimpses Hollywood the distance. Then came a stretch of doldrums, a period of clear skies, and then an area of low, ragged clouds strewn all about the sky and TO JEAN HARLOW the heaviest rain I ever saw. The heavens fairly opened. For- tunately, that was long after daylight. Associates in Film Industry The water splashed brown against the Flyer Crosses Atlantic From glass of my cockpit windows, a soiled Unite in Praise—Director emulsion mixed with the oil splashed Brazil to Africa in 13 from the propellers. Calls Her‘Great Actress.’ Hours 22 Minutes. Our flying speed seems to have been about what I had planned. Through- By he Associated Press. j E; the Associated Press. out my flight, calculations have been LOS ANGELES, June 8.—The death built on a base of 150 DAKAR, French Senegal, June 8 — speed miles an of Jean Harlow yesterday brought ex- Amelia Earhart flew here from hour. Reckoning the distance covered of sorrow from of her today pressions many today as about 1,900 our aver- St. of for an miles, famous associates in the motion- Louis, capital Senegal, age fell just a little short of the es- easier take-ofl on the next leg of her picture industry. timate. around the world. Some of the tributes: flight Aviators here said Miss Earhart's On this stretch, as on those that I Clark Gable, who was working in a time of 13 hours and 22 minutes for have preceded, X did not at all open up I picture with her when she was * the 1,900 miles from Natal, Brazil, to the engines. -
Hotel California Hollywood Insiders Spill Their Secrets and Never-Before-Told Tales About L.A.’S Hottest Hideout
THE RADA THE R | SCOOP Hotel California Hollywood insiders spill their secrets and never-before-told tales about L.A.’s hottest hideout. | By Sam Wasson | From Paris to Poughkeepsie, every city is in perpetual search of a metaphor for itself, but few are more conflicted about choosing their postcard than Los Angeles. Perhaps that’s because no one—inside the city or out—seems certain if it’s a good idea to have a good time. By now, after 100 years of Hollywood, what is certain is that you can’t have a spotlight without a shadow. Those ubiquitous postcards of palm trees and the Hollywood sign? They might get top billing on the revolving racks, but they will FLASHPOINT The Sunset Boulevard entrance of famed Chateau Marmont never tell the whole truth about the myth. That honor is reserved for the Chateau Marmont. After eight decades of debauchery, decadence and derelict amusement, L.A.’s centerpiece hotel—as elusive an icon as the city itself—has finally landed a starring what made it inviting, at least to Phil Pavel (general manager, 2000 you walk in the rooms and see the film role. Opening December Columbia Pictures president Harry to present): When it was built the old tile and the wood, it just feels 22, Sofia Coppola’s Somewhere, a Cohn, who rotated his naughtiest Chateau was the most expensive like an old New York apartment. T father/daughter romance starring stars through suite 24. If you’re apartment complex in the entire city. N Stephen Dorff and Elle Fanning, going to get in trouble, he told Michael Elias (screenwriter, The ARMO M lovingly positions the Chateau at them, “go to the Marmont.” And a Roger Kahn (author, The Boys Jerk): If you were from the east, the heart of the myth. -
Abalorios Para Boneta | Toward Common Cause
Abalorios para Boneta Jeffrey Gibson, Acc. 3784, 2021, Digital Print on Vinyl. Courtesy of the artist. A digitally rendered collage of pencil drawings taken from museum catalog cards. The objects are common items such as Top Ramen noodles in a cup, a disposable diaper, Ivory soap, candy bars, toilet paper, and work gloves. The back ground is neon yellow and bright orang and red and the objects are rendered in greens, blues, oranges, and purples. Dulce, dulce, amargo amor Qué alegría me trajiste Y qué dolor me enseñaste Estoy tan seguro de que me quedaré Y mis sueños mágicos Han perdido su hechizo Donde había esperanza Solo hay una cáscara vacía Dulce, dulce, amargo amor ¿Por qué has despertado Y luego abandonado Un corazón confiado como el mío? —Roberta Flack, Dulce, amargo amor La yuxtaposición de objetos más allá de las fronteras geográficas, temporales y culturales es el eje de Dulce, amargo amor, la primera exposición institucional del artista choctaw y cheroqui Jeffrey Gibson en Chicago. Dulce, amargo amor reúne cuatro conjuntos distintos de objetos: dos conjuntos de pinturas (uno de Elbridge Ayer Burbank y el otro de Gibson), tarjetas de orden del Museo Field y un papel tapiz hecho específicamente para el lugar. Seis nuevos retratos, que reimaginan cuadros de Burbank, están instalados en las galerías Hanson de la Biblioteca Newberry. Mientras tanto, los cuadros de Burbank se encuentran colgados en un papel tapiz diseñado por Gibson para el lugar que incorpora dibujos de un grupo de tarjetas de catálogo. Las tarjetas documentan la entrada de un conjunto de objetos en la colección del museo en 1990. -
The Man Who Was Jean Harlow's Husband
E.J Fleming. Paul Bern: The Life and Famous Death of the MGM Director and Husband of Harlow. Jefferson: Mcfarland, 2008. 396 pp. $45.00, paper, ISBN 978-0-7864-3963-8. Reviewed by Yves Laberge Published on H-TGS (December, 2010) Commissioned by Alexander Freund (The University of Winnipeg) This overlooked book is not a scholarly essay, lowed him to date the prettiest actresses of the but rather a very detailed biography of famous day, from Lya De Putti and Mary Duncan to Jean‐ media mogul and flm producer Paul Bern nette Loff and Joan Crawford. But that was before (1889-1932), the “Number Two” at Metro Goldwyn Bern met and married the 21-year-old actress Mayer Studios. Born in northern Germany not far Jean Harlow, who in many ways can be seen as from Hamburg, Bern succeeded in Hollywood like Marilyn Monroe’s ancestor. She was the biggest many other Germans did during the silent era. As star in Hollywood in the early 1930s, appearing in E. J. Fleming puts it, Bern was a beloved fgure in many hit movies like Frank Capra’s Platinum the studios for all his life, but his reputation Blonde (1931), George Cukor’s Dinner At Eight changed completely the day he died; he fell into (1933), Victor Fleming’s Bombshell (1933), and disgrace and became infamous (p. 1). In his book, others. She was about to shoot what would be‐ Fleming revisits Bern’s life, career, successes, and come one of the last “pre-code movies”: Red Dust death. To most people in the ephemeral world of (1932), directed by Victor Fleming. -
The Life and Death of Jean Harlow, Writes of One Particularly Memorable
Episode #7 Show Notes: The Girl from Missouri In the 1930s Jean Harlow was possibly the biggest star the world had ever known. The original “blond bombshell,” her fresh, sultry look was one that drove men wild and women to peroxide. By her own admission, her acting ability was somewhat lacking. “I’m the worst actress that was ever in pictures,” she had said, and more than once. To her legions of fans, it didn’t matter. She had an indefinable “it” quality that drew people to her like a magnet. Her assessment of her own acting ability was too extreme—she wasn’t the worst actress who ever lived. She wasn’t the best, either. She was an astute observer, though, and as she made a study of her co-stars, her performances did improve over time. In some of her later films, like Wife vs. Secretary and Libeled Lady (two of my favorites) she was quite good—and anything she lacked in acting ability she made up for in sex appeal. She was pretty, yes, but more than that, she was overtly and brazenly sexual. It was well known, for example, that she never wore underwear, which was, at times, shockingly obvious when she would walk on the set wearing diaphanous gowns. David Stenn, in his book Bombshell: The Life and Death of Jean Harlow, writes of one particularly memorable incident that occurred on the set of the film Red Headed Woman: “Most astounding to MGM crews was Harlow’s attitude toward her body. Told by Jack Conway [the director] to remove her jacket in a scene, she obeyed—and wore nothing underneath…Visitors on the set scarcely believed their eyes…but the resulting commotion puzzled Harlow. -
Arizona Bibliography
ARIZONA BIBLIOGRAPHY ABBOTT, J. S. C. Kit Carson. N. Y., 1875. ABBOTT, L. H. Dan the Tramp. Chicago, 1897. ADAMS, C. C. Our Remaining Territories. Chautauquan, Dec., 1890. ADAMS, E. H. To and Fro in Southern California. Cinn., 1887; Same Illustrated, 1888. ADAMS, J. Destruction of the Catholic Missions on the Rio Colorado in 1871. So. Cal. Hist. Soc., Los Angeles, 1893. ALBRIGHT & CO.; G. F. The Southwest Illustrated Magazine. Al- buquerque, 1896. ALDEN, H. M. Harpers' Pictorial History of the Great Rebellion. 2 vols., N. Y., 1866. ALDEN, J. B. Arizona and Other Living Topics. The Irving Library, N. Y., Nov. 23, 1895. ALLEN, E. A. Prehistoric World. Cinn., 1887. ALLEN, S. P. After the Indians. Capital Magazine, Aug., 1891. ALLES, F. L. International Irrigation Congress. Los Angeles, 1893. ANDERSON, A.`D. The Silver Country. N. Y., 1877. ANDREWS, E. B. The Last Quarter Century in the United States. 2 vols., N. Y., 1896. APPLETON & CO., D. General Guide to the United States and Canada. Part II. N. Y., 1900. ASHER & ADAMS. The American Text Book. N. Y., 1874. ATKINS, J. D. C. Indian Depredation Claims. 50th Gong., 1st Sees., H. Ex. Doc. No. 34, Wash., 1888. AULICH, H. P. Spanish Missions in Arizona. Overland, Oct., 1898. BAGG, S. C. Cochise County and Its Resources. Tombstone, 1889. BAILLIE-GROFIMAN, W. A. Camps in the Rockies. N. Y., 1882. BAIRD, G. W. General Miles' Campaigns. Century, July, 1891. BAIRD, S. F. Zoology of the Pacific Railroad Surveys. Pac. R. R. Rep. vols. VIII and IX., Wash., 1858. BAKER, C. D. -
Ohio Valley History
OHIO VALLEY HISTORY A Colaboration oj-Ibe - Fihon I listorical Society,Cincinnati Alust'win Center,and tbe Unitersity ofCinfinnati. VOLUAIE 7 ·Nll;\IBER 4 · WIN'rER 2007 OHIO VALLEY J.Blaine Hudson Vice Chairs Steven Skinman HISTORY STAFF Univerity ofLouis·uitte Otto Budig Merrie Stewart Stillpass 1 Jane Garvcy Roberi Sullivan Editors 1 Dec Gettler John Al.169.J:..AI. D. Christopher Phillips I p2Zu„:ttl James L.Turner Treasurer Dqirt,nnt ofH:story Joseph l\'dliams M,irk I. Hmser U,iiversify Rf Cin,tititati James C. Klotter Gregory Wolf GeorgeM' Colkge A.Glenn Crothers wn Secretary TilE FILSON Qf Hismry lartine R. I) Depar¢ment Bruce Levine unn HISTORICAL Uni'persify of-Louis·uine Uni:Bersity oflilinois SOCIET' 11()ARI) 1<) 4Research President and CEO Dirmor· DIRECTORS 71. Fitso,Historiwl Swaty DtiuglassV. \ AlcDonald 12 1 Harry N. Scheiber Unruersity Of Catifori,ia & President Managing Editors Vice President of Be,keley Orme Wilson, III Ashley 1).Graves Museums Tbe Fihon Higorical Soriefy 11)nvaN].Alatthews Steven M. Stowe Secretary Ad*w UNFUmh Ruby Rogers David Bohl i I.argaret Barr Kulp Centt· Cinti,· int!Mi.q·lii,1 r Cynthia Booth Roger 1).7 . ire Stephanie Byrd Treasurer 2 Somersef Commitilit·,Cothi Editorial Assistant John E Cassidy J. Valker\ Stite:.Ill Brian Gebhin David Davis Joew.l·Potter,Jr Departmen of-History Edward D. Dilter David LArmstrong Carnigic Me/lon Unimit, Universify 0/Cilirinmiti I)eanna Donnelly J. McCaulc:Bmwn James Ellerhorst S. Gordon Dalincv Alting Valler Editorial Board Dmid E. Foxx Louise Farn:le>·Gardner Stephen Aron Unierrsifv ofCon,wdii, Richard J.