Madera Restaurant Offers Locally Sourced Cuisine in an Elegant Yet
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& New restaurants, recipe ideas, and profiles of local chefs. ■ August 5, 2009 SECTION A LSO INSIDE C ALENDAR 23 |C LASS GUIDE 24 |C LASSIFIEDS 26| R EAL ESTATE 31 2 he old adage, “The better the view, the worse the Tfood,” does not apply to Madera, the new restaurant at the Rosewood Sand Hill hotel in Menlo Park. The vista of the Santa Cruz By Jane Knoerle Mountains is lovely, and so is Almanac Lifestyles Editor the food. Executive Chef Peter Rudolph calls Madera’s cuisine “rustic American food.” Presentation isn’t fussy, but ingredients are top notch. He uses many of the same produce purveyors he came to know while heading the kitchen at Navio at the Ritz Carlton at Half Moon Bay. He also shops at local farmers’ markets. A good example of quality ingredients was the red Russian kale and stone fruit salad, with endive and blue cheese ($12), recently served at dinner. The raw kale was delicious and tender. White nectarine slices were sweet, and top-quality blue cheese added just the right zest. The greens served at Madera make the simplest salads taste delicious. Their crunchy sweetness shames salad greens poured from a bag. I’ve had lunch and dinner at Madera, but prefer dinner. The view of the Santa Cruz Mountains at twilight is magic. Diners dress up. The tables are nicely appointed, with plenty of room between them. There is the feeling you have been invited to a very nice party. Our server started us off with an amuse bouche of ceviche served in a tiny white cup. We split the kale and fruit salad and Madera restaurant offers locally California sourced cuisine in an elegant yet cool comfortable setting settled back in comfortable chairs to await our entrees. Rotisserie chicken from the open kitchen, considered Madera’s signature dish, came with polenta, Swiss chard, and chicken sau- sage ($31). The chicken was moist and flavorful, but where was that crispy skin you find on most rotisserie chicken? The chicken sausage link added a piquant note and the sides were fine. Grilled rib eye, served with mushrooms, Yukon gold potatoes, and spinach ($34) was a winner. “Best I ever ate” was a fellow diner’s comment. We all tasted bites and agreed. Rainbow trout stuffed with crab and served with cherry tomatoes, green beans and warm Italian bean salad ($32) sounded strange, but was very good, and a nice choice for a warm summer night. Roasted cauliflower ($7) was a mushy disappointment; no com- parison to the crisper version served at San Francisco’s Perbacco. Our server was gracious enough to bring three plates for strawberry rhubarb cobbler with creme fraiche ice cream. Wonderful, and I don’t even like rhubarb. The portion was large enough for three. All dinner portions were very generous. The finishing touch was a mignardise of three chocolate lychee truffles and a little dish of caramel corn. Complete with espresso and lattes, it was a meal to savor. Lunch at Madera is more casual. Many guests sit outside to savor the view and sunshine. There is a nice selection of salads and a great-looking burger with cheddar cheese, bacon, fries and pickled vegetables ($18). The ingredients in salmon Nicoise Photos by Michelle Le/The Almanac ($16), especially the tiny green beans, were top quality, but the Madera’s dinner menu includes rainbow trout, top, with Dungeness crab, warm summer bean salad, salmon was bland. cherry tomatoes, and sauce vierge; and, above, roasted veal chop with a ragout of sweetbreads, served At another lunch, the chicken salad sandwich ($15), made with radishes, haricots verts, and creamer potatoes. See MADERA, page 22 August 5, 2009 ■ The Almanac ■ 21 FOOD & DRINK New Peet’s Coffee opens in Menlo Park Peetniks now have two local “while the weather is still gor- and dark chocolate caramel Peet’s Coffee & Tea stores, geous,” says assistant manager mocha. where they can find their Jamie Michael. Peet’s Menlo El Camino is favorite brew. Peet’s Menlo Coffee Freddos and Tea open from 5 a.m. to 9 p.m. El Camino opened June 29 in Freddos are popular choices weekdays and 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. the shopping plaza adjoining with customers this summer, weekends. Safeway at 515 El Camino Real says Mr. Michael. “We make Do people really show up at in downtown Menlo Park. Coffee Freddos to order, so 5 a.m.? They do. “We usually The new Peet’s is 1,600 you can have it with soy have a couple people at the square feet, with indoor seat- or non-fat milk.” The cool door, waiting for us to open,” ing. Outdoor seating, awaiting drink comes in three flavors: says Mr. Michael. a permit, will be added soon, mocha, dark chocolate mocha, A Photo by Michelle Le/The Almanac The dining room of the new Madera restaurant at the Rosewood Sand great Hill hotel offers comfortable seating in an elegant setting. bike California cool MADERA continued from page 21 with generous pieces of rotisserie chicken and served with fries and ride! mustard greens, was more to my taste than sand dabs with arti- chokes and parsley potatoes ($22). The sand dabs were fine, but the two artichokes pieces were miniscule. The dish was too buttery — I couldn’t taste the lemon caper sauce. Hope the soft shell crab BLT on grilled focaccia ($19) is still on the menu next time I return. It sounds fabulous. s&ULLYSUPPORTEDWITHTWOWATERRESTSTOPS Madera hits the right notes: luxurious, but approachable. Where TOUR de s'REATBARBEQUELUNCHCATEREDBY,UTTICKENS$ELI else can you find upscale, yet casual, dining in a gorgeous setting? A "URGERS HOTDOGS CHICKEN POTATOSALAD PASTA Madera restaurant is located in the Rosewood Sand Hill hotel, 2825 Sand MENLO salad and much more) Hill Road in Menlo Park. It is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and s6ISITTHESCENICANDHISTORIC0ICCHETTI/PEN3PACE serves a light menu in the lounge. For reservations, call 561-1540. 2OO9 0RESERVE7INERY s&REE4 SHIRTFOREVERYRIDER METRIC CENTURY sORAMSTARTAT-ENLO !THERTON(IGH3CHOOL Saturday, August 22 Support local kids 65, 46 & 35 s!LLPROCEEDSFROMRIDEGOTO2OTARYTUTORING ANDSCHOLARSHIPSFORKIDS mile routes with a few hills s0LENTYOFOPPORTUNITYTOLEARNMOREABOUT No matter how you slice it... Ride Day Registration 2OTARY!SKANYRIDEWORKERFORDETAILS Our pizza is 8 to 10 a.m. Menlo-Atherton High School the BEST! LT O W A E 555 Middlefield Road E O K L L A Y Atherton, CA, 94027 P BEST OF 2 0 0 8 2008 Menlo Park 1001 El Camino Reall 324-3486 Pizzza-2-Go 989 El Camino Realeal 328-1556 Los Altos 227 First Streetet 941-9222 Register online at www.tourdemenlo.com 22 ■ The Almanac ■ August 5, 2009 RJ's A Fabric Upholstery Store and Chair Seat Special Slipcovers $1/yard MEETINGS, MUSIC, THEATER, FAMILY ACTIVITIES AND SPECIAL EVENTS A Better Choice Since 1960 on selected fabrics 1064 Cherry Street 650-591-0220 San Carlos Special Events Concert in Fremont Park. Dave & the Diamonds, a band that mixes FREE R&B, soul, and funk, will perform at 6:30 p.m. Wednesday, Aug. 5, DELIVERY in Fremont Park, on Santa Cruz Avenue at University Drive in down- (with min. order) town Menlo Park. The one-hour concert is part of Menlo Park’s “THE BEST Wednesday evening concert series, which runs through Aug. 12, when PIZZA WEST a downtown block party will also be held. People are invited to bring OF NEW YORK” a picnic blanket and dinner, and to join the dancers of all ages up —Ralph Barbieri front. KNBR 680 Music@Menlo. The Music@Menlo chamber-musical festival, with concerts, lectures and programs, will be through Aug. 226 Redwood 8. Events are held at St. Mark’s Episcopal 880 Santa Cruz Ave Shores Pkwy Church in Palo Alto, Menlo Park Presby- terian Church in Menlo Park, and Menlo Menlo Park Redwood Shores School in Atherton. This year’s events are (Next to Pacific Mendelssohn-themed. Martin Family Hall, (at University Drive) Menlo School, 50 Valparaiso Ave., Atherton. Athletic Club) Call 650-331-0202. musicatmenlo.org (650) 329-8888 (650) 654-3333 Art First Friday Reception. Pacific Art ‘Les Miserables: School Edition’ League hosts the First Friday reception for Young Cosette is played by Anna Daily of Menlo Park in the “Figures & Faces,” showcasing the artwork of almost 100 artists. Sculpture, photogra- Peninsula Youth Theatre’s production of “Les Miserables: School Stanford phy and fine-art prints are included as well Edition,” which runs Aug. 1-9 at the Mountain View Center for the as paintings. Exhibit continues through Aug. Performing Arts. Tickets cost $7 to $18. To order, call 903-6000 31. 6-9 p.m. Pacific Art League of Palo Alto, Driving School 668 Ramona St., Palo Alto. www.Pacifi- or visit www.pytnet.org. cArtLeague.org Summer Savings Package The Tastes and Textures of Tus- cany. Pacific Art League is hosting a pho- 968-7243 ext. 314. www.greenfoothills.org a kids’ show with singing and dancing. FREE CLASSROOM TRAINING with the purchase tographic travel presentation about Tuscany, “The Next Big Thing in the Mobile Families can bring a blanket for the outdoor of Freeway plus driver training Italy, along with a tasting of gourmet Tuscan show under the big oak tree. Aug. 14, 11:15 specialties by Pamela Rhodes. The public World.” In this Commonwealth Club pro- Must have coupon for this offer. Expires July 31, 2009 gram, speakers from the tech world will talk a.m. Free. Menlo Park Library, 800 Alma St., is invited. Monday, Aug. 10, 7:30-8:30 Menlo Park. Call 650-330-2530.