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Ithout It DANSK BJERGKLUB Forbeholdt postvæsnet Klatring 02741 KLATRING NR. 1, 2009 KLATRING MAGASINPOST B Klatring Nr. 1, 2009 Now it´s here - you can´t live without it DANSK BJERGKLUB American Alpine Club træf • Mod Solen Tikka Zipka Tikka XP Myo XP Duo Myo Lite Arco i april • EM i skialpinisme • Hovs Hallar • BMC vintertræf Hyttetur på Store Skagastølstind • Fotosession fra Kjugekull Mini interview med Paw Lee Sørensen Forhandles af alle førende outdoor- og sportsforretninger. Nærmeste forhandler henvises på telefon 38 71 69 59 Omslag.indd 1 19-06-2009 10:49:44 Iindhold Klatring Leder ISSN 1603-5976 Endelig nyt omkring klatrecenter 4 Udgiver Redaktion Dansk Bjergklub Nyt grafi sk udtryk 5 Gamma LT Jacket Mortonsvej 9 1.399,- 2800 Lyngby God’s Own Country På træf med American Alpine Club 6 Tryk TGS-Group Mod Solen Bragende sol i Nissedal 14 Ansv. redaktør Claus P. Østergaard Arco i april Rømersgade 25, 1.th. En uges sportsklatring ved Gardasøen 20 1362 København K. 2636 5110 Hårde strabadser & italiensk charme EM i skialpinisme 24 Men’s Beta LT Jacket Redaktion 4.299,- Maria Sturluson Hovs Hallar Thomas Boesgaard Isklatring i Københavns baghave 30 Layout BMC vintertræf Camilla Hylleberg Vinter klatring i Skotland 34 Claus P. Østergaard Hyttetur på Store Skagastølstind Mail Efterårstur i Norge 40 W’s Handler Hoody [email protected] Superlækker, let fl eeceakke til kvinder. Fotosession 999,- Deadline for næste udgave Fra Kjugekull 46 Mistral 16 1. okt. 2009 899,- Boganmeldelse Forside Eiger Triumphe und Tragödien 50 v EM i skialpinisme Foto Mini Interview Arc’teryx - Evolution in Action Birgitta Niepoort Paw Lee Sørensen 51 Arc’teryx står for nytænkning, kvalitet og kompromisløshed. Deres design og teknologier har de senere år dannet skole for Kopi af artikler er tilladt, Generel information 52 mange af de øvrige producenter, men Arc’teryx er stadig i en Arc’teryx Shop Copenhagen hvis kilde og forfatter angives Regnskab, budget m.m. klasse for sig. Søger du et effektivt værn mod elementernes Frederiksborggade 44 rasen og påskønner du elegante, langtidsholdbare løsninger, er www.friluftsland.dk Arc’teryx uden tvivl noget for dig. [email protected] Lleder redaktionR »ENDELIG SER DET UD TIL AT DER SKER NOGET! »Med sol, sommertid og vinterjakkerne lagt bagerst i skabet, har de fleste af os hurtigt glemt hvor kolde, mørke, fugtige og overskyede årets første måneder var. Sådan må det gerne fortsætte De seneste par måneder (dette er skrevet 11. maj) ser det endelig ud til at der er sket et gennem- lige indtil september, ja gerne oktober. brud i vores årelange søgning efter et sted at lave et stort klatrercenter iKøbenhavn. Ikke kun vejret har ændret sig. Som du sikkert har bemærket, ser bladet denne gang også ander- Vi har nu været til de første møder med Refshaleøens Ejendomsselskab om at leje en at de to ledes ud. Vi har i redaktionen forsøgt at give det et mere moderne grafisk udtryk i en bedre kva- gamle B&W haller. Det er en sag på 5500 kvadratmeter med over 30 meter til loftet. Stedet har litet. Bladet udkommer senere end du er vant til. Det er fordi udgivelses-frekvensen er ændret til potentiale til at blive en af de største klatrehaller, der findes i Europa, hvis ikke i hele verdenen. en sommer- og en vinterudgave. Alle de aktuelle nyheder og aktiviteter i klubben kan du meget Hvad der er nok så interessant er at huslejen er rimelig (billigere end de 1200 kvm vi i sin tid nemmere finde på klubbens hjemmeside - www.danskbjergklub.dk. forhandlede med B93 om), og vi kan komme i gang med ombygningsfasen allerede i indevæ- rende år og forhåbentlig åbne næste år. Der forestår et stort stykke arbejde med planlægning, Vi håber at der er mange som vil have lyst til at berette om store såvel som små ture. Vi vil gerne finansiering samt strukturering, og vi vil løbende holde alle orienteret. Så når du læser dette, kan have de gode historier som fortælles omkring bålet eller i pandelamperne skær. Hvis du har bil- der meget vel være sket mere i sagen, så hold øje med vores hjemmeside. leder eller illustrationer, så sende dem endelig. Og hvis du har historien, men måske ikke kan få den skrevet så kan vi også hjælpe med det over en øl eller en kop kaffe. Generalforsamlingen var meget stille og rolig, men der kom dog et par spændende punkter frem. Igen blev der diskuteret ny Kullenhytte, og der kom et spændende forslag frem om at købe God sommer, god klatring og god læsning! et billigt svensk typehus i træ og derved også udnytte den aktuelle kursfordel. Hvis der skal ske Camilla, Maria, Thomas og Claus noget på dette punkt skal der være en medlemsinteresse som udmønter sig i at nogen gider lave ([email protected]) et stykke arbejde. Der blev på generalforsamlingen nedsat et udvalg, så nu håber jeg at der kom- mer skred i sagerne på dette punkt. Ligeledes er der i kølvandet på generalforsamlingen nedsat et politik- og kommunikationsudvalg som vi i høj grad kan få brug for i den kommende tid, hvor vi skal i dialog med politikere om halprojekt og eksponeringen af vores sport – og i lyset af at der jo er valg til borgerrepræsentationen til efteråret. Bladet ændrer profil og mere om dette i deres egen forklaring. Det er med bestyrelsens fulde opbakning da bladets plads i dag er til at formidle oplevelser og indtryk og den mere faktuelle nyhedsinformation i det 21-århundrede hører hjemme på nettet. Derfor vil en kommende ved- tægtsrevision også indeholde ændringer så alt formelt stof incl. indkaldelse til generalforsamling ser på klubbens hjemmeside. Der er en stribe spændende klubtilbud i sommeren, dels sommertræffet i Ailefroide og dels klub- ture til Norge og Schweiz. Se annonceringen andetsteds og udnyt tilbuddene til alles bedste. Henrik Jessen Hansen Dansk Bjergklub Københavns Klatreklub Formand Henrik Jessen Hansen ([email protected], 33322262) Formand Emil Underbjerg ([email protected]) Kasserer Jan Elleby ([email protected], 39297333) Kasserer Peter Walbum ([email protected]) Sekretær Peter Richter Nielsen ([email protected]) Øvrige Marie Bang Øvrige Mikael Kristiansen ([email protected]) Bo Nortvig ([email protected]) Sten Nørkjær (38345356, [email protected]) Nicolai Liebach ([email protected]) Lars Thorslund (30294458, [email protected]) Dina Danielsen Henrik Ljunggreen (51904662, [email protected]) 4 5 International Climbers Meet, Indian Creek, Utah. 2008 Text og foto: Thomas Østby ÅLET KNITRER Patagoniens kolde vinde vejrbidte og furede og sender gløder ansigt, sidder og drikker Tequila af flasken. afsted med små eksplosions- Han udveksler blikke, grin og anekdoter med agtige knald. De skyder først Jack Tackle, der sidder med sixpence, cigar og som præcise og målsøgende en åben whiskeyflaske. Jack har blide ansigts- raketter for at gå over i vug- træk, samt briller hvor glassene spejler livet Bgende mellemøstlig dans på den stjerneklare i bålet – og et overskæg der kunne gøre BS himmel, før de sluttelig slukkes. Christiansen misundelig. De griner og smiler veltilfredse til hinanden. En gruppe mennesker sidder samlet i cirkel og i flere rækker, på slabs af sandsten i et Jim, Jack, samt Jay Smith, Kitty Calhoun, lille naturligt amfiteater omkring bålet, der George Lowe, Craig Luebben, Malcolm Daly, er placeret i en lille fordybning i landskabet. Steve Swenson m.fl. Store amerikanske Deres skygger bagud er lange og strækker sig klatrepioneer af højeste karat deler jeg varmen mange meter, før de bliver opslugt af mørket. og ilden med. Men ikke blot det, for jeg har De langlemmede skygger forstærker bevæ- også delt reb og makkerskab med flere af dem gelserne på flokken, specielt armene er aktive. i den forløbne uge. De er alle ‘top feeders’, Personerne snakker, pjatter og lader sig perio- øverst i fødekæden. Pioneer i klatringens devis transficere af flammernes dansen op og mange facetter og top klasse klatremakkere. ned af brændestykkerne. Der er noget tribal, nærmest religiøst over det. Endnu engang kommer den transylvanske plasticflaske forbi med Draculas hostesaft. Stemningen er høj og kammeratlig, men også Slibowich, Waaah... Anden aften i træk at lidt træt på en god fysisk måde. Der bliver disse plasticflasker med hjemmebrændt sprit, snakket og udvekslet røverhistorier på et utal der kunne afsyre et helt spisestuesæt, sendes af forskellige sprog. Det er ikke en hel normal rundt. Slagkraftige smuglervarer fra Rumæni- forsamling, der er forsamlet omkring dette en. Der er én ting der er sikker, det går galt for bål. Stemmerne har nemlig babelske dimmen- irerne igen, Jane, Mick, Geoff og Bloody Mary sioner i forskelligheden af sprogene. ser allerede godt kørende ud. Geoff havde ellers forsvoret ikke at gentage forleden nats I de sidste tyve minutter har jeg famlet rundt hylen om kap med Coyoterne. i mørket for at tage billeder af scenariet, jeg er blevet kold og søger varme. Øjner en ledig Brittany Griffiths indtager scenen, med hendes plads tæt ved essen, og glider hurtigt ind i ‘late night award show’. ‘Microtrash contest’, flokken og besætter den. Strålevarmen fra det hvem har samlet mest mikroskrald fra klatre- Brittany Griffith antændte træ varmer i dybden og får mig hur- områderne. ‘The girliest man-lead’, dagens tigt til at afføre dunjakke og hue. Det prikker tudeprinsesse. ‘The manliest girl-lead’, hvem og bider i ansigtet, det er svært ikke at smile har bidt tænderne sammen, løbet den ud, bare en smule veltilfreds. kæmpet hårdt og givet den gazzz. Jim Donini Opfindsomheden var stor, og hver aften var Jeg kigger rundt på på karaktererne omkring der nye priser, ofte til stor morskab og under- mig. AAC præsidenten Jim Donini, med det af holdning. 6 7 Lucy Creamer på 5.12 SEKSOGFIRS MENNESKER OMKRING de store hænder, det er næsten altid den store DET LILLE BÅL.
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