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CLIMBING ETHICS Alpine Style Vs Commercial Expeditions
p i o l e T s d ’ o r 2 0 0 9 81 CLIMBING ETHICS Alpine Style vS CommerCiAl expeditionS The opening night of the Piolets d’Or included a discussion on Climbing Ethics. Here, mountain guide Victor Saunders expands on his contribution to that spir- ited debate. There are those who think commercial expeditions are unethical, that commercial expeditions should use alpine-style tactics, and that maybe they should not exist at all. I will show that this view is mistaken and that the ethical issue is in fact irrelevant; but before dealing with the so-called ethical issue, I wish to set aside the usual diversions that get mixed up in this discussion. There are three that I commonly hear: First: Commercial expeditions bring too many people to the same moun- tain, by the same route. Well, to these people I say, if you have a romantic desire to find raw nature, go away and do new routes on unclimbed moun- tains. Let the wonderful climbs that have been nominated for this year’s Piolets d’Or inspire you. It is not intelligent to do the normal route on Mont Blanc in August and complain that you are not alone. Second: The environmental thing. Commercial expeditions typically go back to the same site year after year, and so it is in the operator’s inter- est to keep camps clean and tidy for the next visit. Amateur expeditions rely solely on the good moral values of the climbers, because there are no other controls on them. -
Political Imagination in German Romanticism John Thomas Gill
Wild Politics : Political Imagination in German Romanticism John Thomas Gill A dissertation submitted to the faculty at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Ph.D in the Department of Germanic and Slavic Languages and Literatures in the College of Arts and Sciences. Chapel Hill 2020 Approved by: Gabriel Trop Eric Downing Stefani Engelstein Jakob Norberg Aleksandra Prica i © 2020 John Thomas Gill ALL RIGHTS RESERVED ii ABSTRACT John Gill: Wild Politics : Political Imagination in German Romanticism (Under the direction of Gabriel Trop) The political discourse of German Romanticism is often interpreted reductively: as either entirely revolutionary, reactionary, or indeed apolitical in nature. Breaking with this critical tradition, this dissertation offers a new conceptual framework for political Romanticism called wild politics . I argue that Romantic wild politics generates a sense of possibility that calls into question pragmatic forms of implementing sociopolitical change; it envisions imaginative alternatives to the status quo that exceed the purview of conventional political thinking. Three major fields of the Romantic political imaginary organize this reading: affect, nature, and religion. Chapter 1 examines Novalis’ politics of affect. In his theory of the fairy tale—as opposed to the actual fairy tales he writes—Novalis proposes a political paradigm centered on the aesthetic dimension of love. He imagines a new Prussian state constituted by emotional attachments between the citizen and the monarch. Chapter 2 takes up the “new mythology” in the works of F.W.J. Schelling, Friedrich Schlegel, and Johann Wilhelm Ritter, the comprehensive project of reorienting modern life towards its most transformative potentials. -
Rock Climbing Fundamentals Has Been Crafted Exclusively For
Disclaimer Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity; severe injury or death can occur. The content in this eBook is not a substitute to learning from a professional. Moja Outdoors, Inc. and Pacific Edge Climbing Gym may not be held responsible for any injury or death that might occur upon reading this material. Copyright © 2016 Moja Outdoors, Inc. You are free to share this PDF. Unless credited otherwise, photographs are property of Michael Lim. Other images are from online sources that allow for commercial use with attribution provided. 2 About Words: Sander DiAngelis Images: Michael Lim, @murkytimes This copy of Rock Climbing Fundamentals has been crafted exclusively for: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz, California 3 Table of Contents 1. A Brief History of Climbing 2. Styles of Climbing 3. An Overview of Climbing Gear 4. Introduction to Common Climbing Holds 5. Basic Technique for New Climbers 6. Belaying Fundamentals 7. Climbing Grades, Explained 8. General Tips and Advice for New Climbers 9. Your Responsibility as a Climber 10.A Simplified Climbing Glossary 11.Useful Bonus Materials More topics at mojagear.com/content 4 Michael Lim 5 A Brief History of Climbing Prior to the evolution of modern rock climbing, the most daring ambitions revolved around peak-bagging in alpine terrain. The concept of climbing a rock face, not necessarily reaching the top of the mountain, was a foreign concept that seemed trivial by comparison. However, by the late 1800s, rock climbing began to evolve into its very own sport. There are 3 areas credited as the birthplace of rock climbing: 1. -
Women Are Climbing Than Ever Before. but Just Who Are the Really
47 www.thebmc.co.uk Summer 2007 UK £3.50 blank page.indd 1 25/5/05 3:55:59 pm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à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i"GUFSZFBSTUIFIBOHFSXBTBTHPPEBTOFX DPTUBOETIFFSFGGPSUJUUBLFTUPSFQMBDFUIFCPMUTBU 8BMFTCPMUJOHXPSLTIPQGPSFYBNQMF -
Madera Restaurant Offers Locally Sourced Cuisine in an Elegant Yet
& New restaurants, recipe ideas, and profiles of local chefs. ■ August 5, 2009 SECTION A LSO INSIDE C ALENDAR 23 |C LASS GUIDE 24 |C LASSIFIEDS 26| R EAL ESTATE 31 2 he old adage, “The better the view, the worse the Tfood,” does not apply to Madera, the new restaurant at the Rosewood Sand Hill hotel in Menlo Park. The vista of the Santa Cruz By Jane Knoerle Mountains is lovely, and so is Almanac Lifestyles Editor the food. Executive Chef Peter Rudolph calls Madera’s cuisine “rustic American food.” Presentation isn’t fussy, but ingredients are top notch. He uses many of the same produce purveyors he came to know while heading the kitchen at Navio at the Ritz Carlton at Half Moon Bay. He also shops at local farmers’ markets. A good example of quality ingredients was the red Russian kale and stone fruit salad, with endive and blue cheese ($12), recently served at dinner. The raw kale was delicious and tender. White nectarine slices were sweet, and top-quality blue cheese added just the right zest. The greens served at Madera make the simplest salads taste delicious. Their crunchy sweetness shames salad greens poured from a bag. I’ve had lunch and dinner at Madera, but prefer dinner. The view of the Santa Cruz Mountains at twilight is magic. Diners dress up. The tables are nicely appointed, with plenty of room between them. There is the feeling you have been invited to a very nice party. Our server started us off with an amuse bouche of ceviche served in a tiny white cup. -
The American Alpine Club Annual Report 2017 a Message from Our Ceo
a AAC member Bernd Zeugswetter THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB ANNUAL REPORT 2017 A MESSAGE FROM OUR CEO WHEN I TOOK THE HELM at the AAC in 2005, we looked In 2011, we reaffirmed this direction and the organi- inward and asked: who do we represent? Who do we zation’s growth accelerated. Mountaineering became just want to be in the future? The answer came back con- one of many ways for people to engage with the Club. sistently: we want to be the Club for all climbers. We changed the name of Accidents in North American We had long been associated with expedition climb- Mountaineering to Accidents in North American Climbing. ers and alpinists. We talked of reaching summits— Our efforts to keep up with this landscape demanded often by new and difficult routes—as the culmination a board, staff, and volunteers who could represent and of a dedication to climbing. We spent decades honor- reflect the new dynamics in climbing. We revised our ing achievement within the narrow mountaineering com- mission and vision to reflect who we strived to be. munity, while the sport of climbing was subdividing into We actively sought women to lead and found how a multitude of specialties, each with its own culture. difficult it can be to change a culture—like that of Looking back, it may not have seemed momen- our board or staff—and make those changes stick. tous for us to give our Underhill award for climbing The results of our steps towards inclusion have brought achievement to John Gill in 2008 for advancing boul- nothing but good news. -
83 SUMMIT AUTUMN.Indd
CLIMBING LIFE LIVING THE DREAM? Climb now; work later is DMM’s famous motto. But what happens when a sticker slogan becomes your career plan? Sarah Stirling talks to seven sponsored stars to discover the graft behind the glamour. limbing’s bohemian forefathers were young at a particularly boring time: after World War II had crushed the life out of everyone, but before the 60s started swinging. Before this, climbing was something mountaineers who had earned their beards did for training; now an adventurous few developed it into a way of life. In that hedonistic epoch before the apple of commercialism had been bitten, most climbers knew each other, and tribes of them began coagulating around crags. It was inevitable the tantalising question would spark: Chow can we do this all the time, and never have to work? In the beginning, the answer was simple: live rough, live now. As Gwen Moffat wrote: “I was a typical product of the war: impressionable and frustrated.” Then she meets a Greek god in bell-bottoms, hard and golden at the foot of Cadair Idris, who opens up “a free and splendid world of mountain climbing”, populated by “supermen and lovely, casual girls subject to no ordinary rules.” Meanwhile the Golden Age of Yosemite is beautifully depicted in the film Valley Uprising, in which Yvon Chouinard describes buying damaged cat food tins for the climbers living rough at Camp Four to eat: “None of us expected to ever have a job. We were going to be hobos basically. And we were going to climb forever and that was the extent of it.” Human nature meant things wouldn’t stay simple, of course, and that Yosemite era ended with the Peter Pans wanting to grow up. -
Editorial...P. 2 National. . . P. 3 Regional...P. 4
VERTICAL TIMES THE NATIONAL PUBLICATION OF THE ACCESS FUND VOLUME 62 | FEBRUARY 2005 EDITORIAL. .P. 2 NATIONAL . P. 3 REGIONAL . .P. 4-5 GRASSROOTS . .P. 6 BOULDER PROJECT . .P. 7 CORPORATE UPDATE . .P. 10 EVENTS, THANKS YOUS . .P. 11 ACCESS FUND AFFILIATES . .P. 12 Ice is Nice and will Suffice “Ice” climbing has taken many new turns and twists since weekend, we debated how to protect the area and quickly I began climbing leashless (yes leashless) with wooden shafts went further afield in search of more ice and fewer people. and “wart hogs” for protection. We thought we were mak- Through all of this we came to enjoy and respect both ing advances when we added leashes to our tools, but there the challenge of the medium as well our own limitations. were those amongst us who debated whether hanging on Avalanches and other forces of nature reinforced our respect and our tools was “aid climbing” or not. Today climbers do amaz- bond with our natural surroundings. We debated not only the ing things leashless, on rock, with points on the rear of their latest techniques and tools but also why had the Breach Wall on crampons and gymnastic moves that are Kilimanjaro, the Ice Window on Kenya, the Black couloir on the impressive to say the least. Grand and many other ice routes not formed again. As good One of the things I learned stewards of the land we continue to ask these ques- early on was that “ice tions. More and more of us enjoy “ice” climbing (in climbers never fall” and what ever form) and the Access Fund continues “full conditions” were to work hard to conserve access but we also not only fun but the need to continue questioning. -
The University of Tulsa Magazine Is Published Three Times a Year Major National Scholarships
the university of TULSmagazinea 2001 spring NIT Champions! TU’s future is in the bag. Rediscover the joys of pudding cups, juice boxes, and sandwiches . and help TU in the process. In these times of tight budgets, it can be a challenge to find ways to support worthy causes. But here’s an idea: Why not brown bag it,and pass some of the savings on to TU? I Eating out can be an unexpected drain on your finances. By packing your lunch, you can save easy dollars, save commuting time and trouble, and maybe even eat healthier, too. (And, if you still have that childhood lunch pail, you can be amazingly cool again.) I Plus, when you share your savings with TU, you make a tremendous difference.Gifts to our Annual Fund support a wide variety of needs, from purchase of new equipment to maintenance of facilities. All of these are vital to our mission. I So please consider “brown bagging it for TU.” It could be the yummiest way everto support the University. I Watch the mail for more information. For more information on the TU Annual Fund, call (918) 631-2561, or mail your contribution to The University of Tulsa Annual Fund, 600 South College Avenue, Tulsa, OK 74104-3189. Or visit our secure donor page on the TU website: www.utulsa.edu/development/giving/. the university of TULSmagazinea features departments 16 A Poet’s Perspective 2 Editor’s Note 2001 By Deanna J. Harris 3 Campus Updates spring American poet and philosopher Robert Bly is one of the giants of 20th century literature. -
Parking Area; HPC Recommends Approval of COA (Exhibit 3- B) C) 1106 Bowen Ave.; Parcel Identification No
RECESS MEETING AGENDA MAYOR AND BOARD OF ALDERMEN • CITY OF OCEAN SPRINGS July 21, 2020— 6: 00 p.m. at City Hall 1. CALL TO ORDER 2. INVOCATION AND PLEDGE OF ALLEGIANCE 3. PUBLIC HEARING a) Adopt Resolution adopting the FY 2020— 2021 Uniform Assessment Schedule for Motor Vehicles ( Exhibit 3- a) b) 321 Jackson Avenue PID 61335022. 030; Request approval of Certificate of Appropriateness ( COA) for construction of single-story, single family dwelling and 2- car parking area; HPC recommends approval of COA (Exhibit 3- b) c) 1106 Bowen Ave.; Parcel Identification no. 61190015. 000; Request Approval of Certificate of Appropriateness ( COA) for exterior renovations; HPC recommends approval of COA (Exhibit 3- c) 4. AGENDA PUBLIC COMMENT ** The Public is invited to address the Board for up to 3 minutes eachfor a maximum period of30 minutes, ONLY regarding issues listed on this agenda. The Board will take all comments under advisement for potential action if warranted. Please identify yourselfand agenda item. 5. CONSENT AGENDA* Consent Agenda — All matters listed under Consent Agenda, are considered to be routine by the Board ofAldermen and will be enacted by one motion. There will not be separate discussion ofthese items. Ifdiscussion is desired, that item will be removedfrom the Consent Agenda and will be considered separately. City Clerk: a) Ratify check to Belk, Inc. in the amount of$ 1, 480.45 for investigators clothing allowance Exhibit 5- a) Fire Department: b) Accept monthly Fire Department Report for June 2020 (Exhibit 5- b) c) Ratify donation acceptance in the form of labor and material by EvoArmor, LLC to disinfect areas of Police and Fire Department buildings located at 3810 and 3820 Bienville Blvd. -
Survivors' Recount Fiery Last Moments of KA
JJNIV1:KS1l'I' OF HAWAll UBRJUl arianas %rietYr;~ Micronesia's Leading Newspaper Since 1972 ~ ews Boria.. slams Gov.· Tenorio's status overtures: oto public' By Zaldy Dandan that happening. dependent Northern Marianas. make it clear to Congress that his "But we're adults, and we Variety News Staff Most of the local residents "It's his personal opinion, and "request" for an independent or a should sit down, negotiate and try ONLY the people of the CNMI would prefer that the CNMI re it should stay that way-it is not freely associated state status is his to arrive at a compromise." can ask the United States to grant main in political union with the the opinion of a majority of the (Tenorio) opinion alone. In a media conference Wednes independence to the Northern Unites States, Borja said, react people," Borja, who is running Borja, at the same, reiterated day, Tenorio said if the Clinton Marianas, and Lt. Gov. Jesus C. ing to Gov. Froilan C. Tenorio's against Tenorio, said. that CNMI should pursue nego administration continues to insist Borja yesterday said he can't see statement Wednesday on an in- The governor, he added, shou Id tiations with the Clinton adminis on the federalization of the tration through the Covenant Sec CNMI's immigration and mini tion 902 talks. mum wage policies, he would ask "We should state our position Congress to grant independence in a reasonable and cogent man or a "freely associated state" sta ner," he said. tus to the Northern Marianas. Tenorio' s "attitude," Borja said, He said the CNMI will survive "is, 'If you make me angry I'll being independent, but not with take the marbles and go home.' Continued on page 54 Survivors' recount fiery last moments of KA 801 By JU-YEON KIM it went down in a heavy rain , AGANA, Guam (AP) - A Ko storm on approach to the air rean Air jetliner shook viole!1tly port. -
Sewanee1993.Pdf
Publishedfor Alumni and Friends ofthe University ofthe South Winter 1993 Light Fall: Paintings and Poetry by Edward Carlos ' Illuminating the 'Dark Ages SEWANEEJOURNAL I drove through the uct is known throughout the SEWANEE Asbayou country of South world is immensely satisfying. Winter 1993 Louisiana to interview "It's fun to know that when you Paul Mcllhenny, C'67, I remem- have a party in New York, Peter Stephen Becker, Director of Public Relations bered stories from my childhood Jennings and Bryant Gumbel are Robert Bradford. Editor about the pepper sauce that coming by to see you because Joe Romano, Staff Writer Mary E. Henry. C'93, Class Notes Editor Paul's family has produced for they're devout Tabasco sauce Robert Ingram, C'93. Intern the last 125 years. fans," he says. "And our sales base My father used to talk about a continues to expand. We just got Associated Alumni Officers man from the small town where our second order from Russia. N. Pendleton Rogers, C'72, President he grew up in Texas. During the We're going into Belarussia, John W. Tonissen Jr., C'70, Vice President for Planned Giving Depression, this man would offer Georgia, and the Ukraine. Jack Blackwell, C'44, National Chairman to drink an entire bottle of Through our agent in Hong the Annual Fund for Tabasco sauce, teaspoon by tea- Kong, we're into China. How Elizabeth McDonough Howick, C'81, spoon, for $5. He would occa- these people can afford Tabasco Vice President for Admission sionally get a taker, my father sauce at $2 or $3 a bottle, I don't The Rev.