JOHN MUIR TRUST

October 2008 No 45

Biodiversity: helping nature heal itself Saving energy: saving wild land Scotland’s missing lynx ADVERT

 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 JOHN MUIR TRUST

October 2008 No 45

Contents Nigel’s notes Foreword from the Chief Executive of the John Muir Trust, 3 The return of the natives: Nigel Hawkins Members air their views devotees – all those people who on re-introductions care passionately about wild land and believe in what the Trust is 5 Stained glass trying to do. commemorates John Muir During those 25 years there has been a constant process Bringing back trees to of change as people become 6 involved at different stages of our the Scottish Borders development and then move on, having made their mark in all 8 Biodiversity: sorts of different ways. Helping nature heal itself The John Muir Trust has We are going through another constantly seen change as period of change at the John Muir 11 Scotland’s missing lynx it develops and grows as Trust as two of us who have been the country’s leading wild very involved in the Trust and in land organisation. taking it forward, step down. In 12 Leave No Trace: the process, opportunities are created for new people to become Cleaning up the wilds Change is brought about by involved and to bring in their own what is happening in society, energy, freshness, experience, Inspiration Point the economy and in the political 13 skills and passion for our cause. world, with the Trust responding We can be very confident – based to all of these. But the biggest 14 A conservationist in Tanzania on past experience – that this is changes in the Trust are those exactly what will happen and the which the Trust brings about Trust will continue to develop and 15 Sustainable kayaking itself as it works to realise its grow in the future. ambition and aspiration for wild Dick Balharry is an exceptional places to be valued, protected 16 Saving energy: saving wild land person who has made an and enhanced. This is fuelled – An energy policy for the Trust outstanding contribution to the through the enthusiasm of our Trust during the past seven years, Members, volunteers, staff and first as a Trustee and then as 19 25 Years of the John Muir Trust other supporters. chairman. Dick is a kenspeckle The Trust is a wild land figure in the Scottish countryside Classic Text: Fraser Darling’s organisation. Some people might 22 through his passion for wild think that seeking the beauty and Reith Lectures places, his deep understanding solitude of wild places is about of nature and his ability to getting away from people – and communicate and inspire others. 23 Book reviews there are times when, for many of Dick will complete his second us, there is truth in that. three-year term as chairman in 24 Winning words But building a wild land August next year. In preparation organisation which is able to – the Wild Writing competition for that, and bearing in mind the take positive action to safeguard other changes taking place in the and enhance wild land is all Trust, the Trustees have elected about engaging people with the John Hutchison as chairman- cause of the wild land they love. designate, enabling him to FRONT COVER Everything that the Trust has prepare and work in tandem Black grouse, one of the species likely to benefit from the Trust’s achieved in its first 25 years is a with Dick during this period of biodiversity policies - page 8. consequence of the dedication transition. and determination of the Trust’s Picture: Peter Cairns, Northshots huge band of supporters and contd over John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008  contd from page 1 people are willing to give of their More than 70,000 people from 52 weeks of the year out there in time, energy, resources – and of all walks of life have taken part those fantastic wild places – much Based in Lochaber, John joined themselves - to help forward this in our John Muir Award and for though that is an attractive the Board last year. He has a lot cause which they believe in so many of them it has been a life- thought. of experience in the community passionately. changing experience. We have I have been asked to continue land movement and many links in Passion can, of course, lead also encouraged a national debate my links with the Trust and the West Highlands and Islands. to intense debate and huge on issues which impact on wild deploy my knowledge and In John the Trust has attracted emotional investment. But this places and their importance to enthusiasm in a new part-time an excellent person as its future has been part of the essential present and future generations. role as Director of the John Muir chairman and we can feel very dynamic which has made the We have tried to follow in the Trust Anniversary Foundation, confident in the leadership role Trust such an adventurous and footsteps of the great Scotsman the charity set up by the Trust to he will play in taking the Trust vibrant organisation. John Muir, the father of national help raise funds for our work. In forward in the years ahead. I am very grateful to everyone parks, who called on us to “do this new role, I shall be developing The other major change who has shared a passion for wild something for wildness and make present and new contacts and involves myself. This will be the land and has helped to build the the mountains glad”. relationships aimed at building last ‘Nigel’s Notes’ I write as Chief John Muir Trust into the highly Although much has been up funds from new sources for the Executive as I am standing down respected organisation that it is achieved – and it is humbling Foundation to channel towards from this post on 28 February, today. to look back and see just how the work of the Trust. 2009. Trustees have started the The Trust has developed from far we have come from our first I am looking forward to this process of seeking a successor and its early days where guardianship stumbling efforts - there is still so new challenge and wish to help I am very confident they will find of key wild areas was our priority. much to do. We are a long way create a very firm foundation an excellent person to help take That is still very important but we from achieving our vision for wild for the Trust’s future work. I the organisation forward in the now take a far wider view of how places to be valued by all members have had fantastic support from future. people engage with wild places of society. But at least we have everyone involved in the Trust Having been involved in and in doing so increase their started on that journey. over the years – and I thank you the Trust right from the start, understanding and appreciation I wish my successor, the staff, all for that. I very much look I have seen huge changes over of the natural world. At the same Trustees, Members and everyone forward to continuing to work the years as we have developed time, we wish to extend and else who supports the Trust with friends, colleagues and and grown. But the one thing enhance wild places and increase every success in taking our cause acquaintances in the future. that has not changed is the biodiversity – the range of forward. commitment of people to our animals, birds, insects, plants and Having said that, I am not cause. I am so impressed by how fungi which can be found there. about to spend seven days a week,

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 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 THE RETURN OF THE NATIVE? Members display conflicting views on re-introduced species

In the July 2008 edition of the John Muir Trust’s Members’ News our Chief Scientific Officer, Mike Daniels, outlined Brown bear and cub, photographed News in Finland. the Trust’s draft policy on the re-introduction of once-native species. (The key points appear in the panel.) Members were invited to contribute their views and we publish on this page extracts from some of the letters and e-mails received. As the Trustees prepare to take a decision on the policy, it is clear that our Members hold a wide, and conflicting, range of opinions on the subject. On page 11, David Hetherington expresses a personal view on the potential for re-introducing the lynx. Ca irns /NORTHSHOTS P eter Here are extracts from Members’ responses:

“I can see from some of the same time distancing yourselves jargon-speak being adopted that from including the very species the John Muir Trust is in danger that helped to evolve those of not being a ‘pioneer’ but of ecosystems.” becoming another green-wash, subscription conscious, single- “Within a few years wild boar issue group. That would be a will become a serious nuisance “I am very much opposed to the reintroduction of wolf shame since I think the history and perhaps even a danger and bear to Scotland. In much less populous times, our behind the Trust demands to the public. The proposed ancestors did a good job in removing these species . . . ambitious, far-reaching and introduction of beaver will almost One of the joys of walking in Britain is the absence of certainly ruin the salmon fishing progressive policies. Even threats from such large predators.” radicalism if necessary.” in whichever rivers they colonise . . . . If the people who want to “The wider walking population, bring back the beavers have their “Having bivouacked and camped on many which often means families, may way they will then demand the re- occasions in bear, boar and wolf territory, I well be quite hostile to such introduction of wolves and after can understand . . . why people may fear these reintroductions and it may be that lynx.” animals, but there is little basis to justify what is politically unwise for the Trust to muddle its own message by getting “I think the biggest risk to the yet another passive withdrawal from reality and involved with a very different John Muir Trust is of being trapped objectivity.” issue.” into a belief that ‘keeping things as they are’ is sustainable or “Overall I was disappointed at meaningful.” Draft policy on introductions the cautious draft of the policy The Trust’s draft policy on re-introductions of once- and particularly its emphasis “Perhaps when people see how native species is underpinned by three principles: on current rather than historic good it is to have beavers and • The Trust’s focus is on the protection and wildlife. Much of what we think wolves back in the countryside, management of wild land and its associated wildlife. of as classic Scottish wilderness and how they can live with people This includes current threats to existing native habitats is largely a man-made wet desert, perfectly happily, they will get and species. and the imbalance in favour of over their prejudices, but I fear • The Trust is principally concerned with current and grazing herbivores has played a it will take a long time. I am less future management of wild land and its associated large part in this.” happy about bears being re- wildlife as opposed to what was there in the past. introduced as they are a danger to • A key aim in the management of wild land is the need “Surely a wilderness as walkers and campers . . . We don’t to maintain robust and natural ecosystems capable envisaged by John Muir, to be have enough wilderness for such a of sustaining healthy populations of native wildlife. complete, should have a full large animal.” Such ecosystems are also likely to be important in complement of wildlife.” countering the effects of climate change on wildlife. “I would rather that the money Where proposed re-introductions are compatible “I disagree totally with the spent on re-instating the beaver with the above principles, the Trust will support re- re-introduction of once native was spent in more beneficial ways, introduction subject to the following conditions: species which could endanger like broadleaf (native species) • Full consideration being given to the potential both domestic animals and and Scots pine woodlands or positive and negative social, economic and human life.” protecting the red squirrel or environmental effects of the re-introduction. creating butterfly and moth • Adherence to international guideline criteria on “It seems odd to me that your habitats.” the biology, socio-economic and legal requirements, draft policy should claim a key planning, preparation and post-release for the re- aim to be ‘to maintain robust “How about a reference within introduction ie IUCN (World Conservation Union) and natural ecosystems capable the principles [in the draft policy] guidelines www.iucn.org/themes/ssc/publications/ of sustaining healthy populations to the Trust’s commitment to policy/reinte.htm of native wildlife’ and at the access to wild land?”

John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008  News

‘Glen Nevis Explorer’ provides a wild read The Trust has produced a free leaflet for young people introducing them to Glen Nevis and Ben Nevis. It is full of information, quizzes and nature notes as well as safety advice. Playing ‘Bird and Butterfly Bingo’ might open a lot of eyes in Glen Nevis. Copies of the ‘Glen Nevis Explorer’ are available from the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre. k Ba lh a rr y D ic k

Water vole success Recent surveys show that the water vole (pictured) is thriving in Highland Scotland while there has been an estimated 90% decline in the south, mainly as a result of habitat loss and predation by mink. The Scottish water vole population appears to have escaped unscathed, largely because mink are deterred by the harsher habitat. Evidence of this strong upland population has only emerged in recent years. Wildlife monitoring carried out last summer on Trust properties as part of the Wild Land Biodiversity Project found signs of thriving populations of water voles in the Highlands, even as high as 600m on Ben Nevis. There is a distinctive Scottish genetic variation. Highland water voles are black while their cousins south of the border are brown. A report on the Wild Land Biodiversity Project appears on page 8.

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 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 John Muir celebrated in stained glass The life and work of John Muir is to be celebrated in an entertainment venue in News Glasgow’s West End. Colin Turf wall building at Skalanes Beattie, owner of the Oran Mor, has commissioned stained glass artist John K Clark to create four stunning windows inspired by Scottish landscapes as well as a glass screen incorporating the words of John Muir. John Clark trained at Glasgow School of Art and has established an international reputation from his studios in Frankfurt. The windows are now installed in Ja c k son G ordon one of the Oran Mor restaurants which will be re-launched shortly as ‘The John Muir Room’. Colin Beattie is a John Muir enthusiast who has walked the John Muir way and regularly Trust volunteers go turf-walling in Iceland commissions artistic work for Seven regular participants in Trust work parties took their skills to Iceland Oran Mor (where Alasdair Gray this summer in a follow-up visit to the Skalanes Nature and Heritage decorated the ceiling) and his Centre on the east coast of the island (see Journal 44). Much of the work other pubs and restaurants, was familiar to Scottish work parties – tree planting, track maintenance including the Ben Nevis. That and the like - but building a turf wall was a new experience for a Trust connection prompted him into party. Carole Scott, one of the volunteers, describes it as “not unlike organising friends in a fund- K CL A R K dry-stane dyking, but muddier”. Once built, the wall was planted with raising walk to help the Trust buy plants gathered locally and then watered in, a task subsequently rendered JOHN Ben Nevis itself. His enthusiasm pointless by the continual and torrential rain which led to the party being for John Muir’s message, he says, evacuated by boat as floods took out the access road. is in his blood. His ancestors more Scots to know about John Skalanes is a growing private reserve run by Ólafur Örn Pétursson belonged to Tiree and he still goes Muir,” he says, “and I want more with Wren Franklin who is in charge of conservation planning. It hosts back there when he can. “I want people to hear his message today.” workshop groups from abroad, university parties on field trips and also receives a fair number of day guests. Conservation volunteer work parties are less common in Iceland and their assistance is welcomed.

Rare moth Keith R edsh a w found on Knoydart

The Great Brocade moth, a member of the ‘Nationally Scarce B’ category Ja c k son G ordon for British moths, has been found on Knoydart. Andy and Maggy Tebbs, moth enthusiasts from New Romney in Kent, spent time with the Trust’s conservation work parties at Steall Bothy and Inverie during the summer and monitored local moth populations. They identified more than 40 species at Steall and over 70 at Inverie including the Great Brocade. ‘Nationally Scarce B’ indicates that the moth has only been recorded in Skalanes work party underway with the Seydisfjord in the backdround. between 31 and 100 10km squares in Great Britain since 1980. They also identified over a dozen species in the next rarest classification of ‘Local’ including the Pyral Trachycera advenella, also known as the Grey Knot-horn. ‘Local’ means it has only been recorded in 101 to 300 10km squares in Great Britain since 1960.

B&B opportunity on Rockall Andy Strangeway, the first person to sleep on all 162 Scottish islands of 40 hectares and over, is now tackling smaller islands including Rockall. The self-styled ‘Island Man’ failed in May to land on the Atlantic rock which he dubs “The most difficult island in the world to sleep R edsh a w Keith on”. Now he is recruiting for a return expedition next year. For full Top right: The rare Great Brocade moth found in Knoydart. Above: Pyral details visit www.islandmanrockallexpedition2009.com Trachycera advenella, one of more than 70 moths identified at Inverie. John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008  Bringing back the Ettrick Forest News

A partner organisation of the John Muir Trust is expanding a bold initiative to recreate the rich diversity of the Ettrick Forest that has long been destroyed by centuries of intensive management and grazing. The Borders Forest Trust (BFT), already working to restore valuable lost habitats and Local youngsters have already been busy tree planting at Carrifran. associated wildlife to this part of southern Scotland, now plans to extend its work. hill. To the west lies the Devil’s to purchase Corehead. At the the purchase of their ancestral With support from the John Beef Tub where Border Reivers time of going to press there is lands and become Stakeholders Muir Trust, BFT purchased cached their stolen cattle. Once still £580,000 to raise. While the of the Beef Tub. The support of Carrifran valley eight years ago. Corehead is purchased, the Trust BFT hopes to secure funds from other names, from the Borders Nearly half a million trees have plans to return the lost habitats grant giving bodies, individual or further afield, will be welcome. been planted there to re-create of the Ettrick Forest by planting donations are also needed. Information and details on making a wildwood and wildlife, such native woodlands, regenerating Ettrick Forest provided not only a donation can be found at www. as black grouse, is returning to heathland, establishing montane habitats for wildlife but also bordersforesttrust.org or contact the land. BFT now has an option habitats and re-creating wetlands. homes and food for Border clans 01835 830 750. to secure 640 acres of land at The BFT aims to encourage such as the Johnstons, Moffats, Corehead, only two kilometres species such as peregrine falcon, Armstrongs, Douglas, Elliots, from Carrifran. golden eagle, black grouse, Kerrs and Humes. BFT is already Corehead is a stunning area, reindeer moss, globeflower, alpine working with local Moffats and divided into five valleys forming rush, adder, scotch argus butterfly Armstrongs to encourage clan the source of the Annan Water. and mountain hare back to the hills members to contribute towards On its eastern edge is the of Corehead. shoulder of Hartfell which, at Borders Forest Trust needs The Devil’s Beef Tub, a major 808m, is Dumfriesshire’s highest to raise £700,000 by May 2009 feature of Corehead.

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 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 Hidden gardens reveal a wild side A task force of John Muir Award volunteers has transformed a derelict wasteland in Glasgow into a wildlife haven. With the help of the BBC Breathing Places Campaign, the group News has created a wildlife area to increase biodiversity in the Hidden Garden at Glasgow Tramway. Mountain invertebrate survey As well as gardening, the volunteers surveyed birds and wild The John Muir Trust is working with Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH) to flowers, and sketched, photographed and wrote about what they survey invertebrates on three mountains on Trust land; Ben Nevis, Blaven found. and Schiehallion, along with Beinn Eibhinn on Corrour estate. BBC Breathing Places aims to inspire millions to ‘do one thing’ Staff, contractors and volunteers have been helping the Trust fulfil the and encourages everyone to make a difference for wildlife. The group contract, sampling invertebrates from tree-line to summit. achieved their John Muir Discovery Awards through the project. The SNH project is surveying 12 mountains Scotland-wide to: • provide a list of montane invertebrates in a European context; • rank the species in terms of threat from climatic change; • highlight areas of high biodiversity or where there are concentrations of ‘rare’ species. Below: High on Ben Nevis in June weather, Alison Austin, the Trust’s Nevis Conservation Officer, and a volunteer helper check out an insect trap. MIE GR A NT J A MIE “Some days we get creative with art in the garden, if it rains we can use the greenhouses, and some days we get plenty of exercise from turning our compost.” - Shali Sengupta, volunteer.

Gardening as therapy

The John Muir Trust and the Chrysalis Project have worked Sa nd y Max well together to create the John Muir wildlife garden at Dundee College. The Chrysalis Project works with people with mental health problems and provides a range of vocational training and occupational activity in horticulture. The garden, which is open to college students and staff all year and to the public at certain times, was designed by a group of Dundee residents recovering from Nine out of 10 people value our wild places mental health issues. A report published by Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH) and the The gardeners, working towards their John Muir Award, have Cairngorms National Park Authority shows that the vast majority of created a meadow, pond and bogland with a wall especially designed Scotland’s residents values its wilder landscapes. The report, looking for toads. One part of the garden has been built up and planted with at public perceptions, found that 91% of people think it important for wild mountain plants. Nature has been allowed to flourish in the Scotland to have wild places. There is also very strong support for the garden with plants that are typically thought of as weeds, such as conservation of wild land in Scotland.

thistles and teasels, deliberately cultivated to encourage wildlife. Half the people interviewed believe that wild places in Scotland are under threat and around three in five residents thought that action is required to preserve wild areas in Scotland. The main perceived threats to wild areas were development, urbanisation and humans. The report was based on interviews with over a thousand people across Scotland and 300 within the Cairngorms National Park.

Wild places are valued because they are seen as part of Scotland’s culture, heritage and tourist industry. They are also seen as important for wildlife and nature, the environment, and the local economy. MIE GR A NT J A MIE “There is wildlife all around us even though we don’t notice it,” says Phil

Jenner, Chrysalis Project gardener. “Getting back in touch with nature JOHN ROSS gives me a real sense of fulfilment and is very therapeutic for mental health.”

John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008  HELPING NATURE HEAL ITSELF Understanding that everything in the world is ‘hitched to everything else’ Biodiversity The John Muir Trust’s Wild Land Biodiversity Project is a long term, ambitious vision for future generations. Fran Lockhart explains what it seeks to achieve.

‘Biodiversity’ If you were to explain the Wild Land Biodiversity Project to someone with no knowledge of – the story of a word conservation, you might say: “We are reducing deer numbers on our properties to let the plants grow”. In 1992 delegates from That’s it in a nutshell. Nothing too startling there – until you start to look at the complexities of nature 177 countries met at the and you discover how unlikely things are connected – how nurturing alder trees may help fish such as United Nations Conference the Atlantic salmon. on Environment and Development - ‘The Earth Summit’ - in Rio de Janeiro. On their agenda was pollution, overpopulation, resource use, economic development, global climate change and the destruction of many of the Earth’s ecosystems and the species within them. The conference defined the natural biological diversity of the planet as “the variability among living organisms from both terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems and the ecological complexes of which they are part: this includes diversity within species, between species and of ecosystems.”

‘Biodiversity’ became the in- Al a n P S cott word for what we used to just call ‘nature’. The only difference between the terms was the recognition that humans were BIODIVERSITY is everywhere relatively common? Could we bank. They survive only because also an important part of the and it is not just being lost lose red deer if their population is they grow where the relentless natural scheme of things. The from exotic locations such as allowed to grow until their habitat chomping of herbivorous teeth conference concluded that rain forests. In the Highlands can no longer support them? and the woodman’s axe can’t nature (biodiversity) could of Scotland much has been lost A typical Highland glen reach. As thousands of postcards not be separated from politics already; the lynx, wolf, beaver, elk features a river wending its way and hoards of tourists will (people) - something John Muir and probably countless species of past heather-clad slopes. A few verify, it all looks stunningly had realised over a hundred the less sexy types such as mosses scattered pockets of ancient picturesque, wild and natural years earlier. and lichens. So what’s next? Black birch, alder and Scots pine cling . . . except it is not! It is a mere grouse? Salmon? Wildcat? Or to life in steep gullies that cut shadow of what once was; a land perhaps something that is still down the slopes or along the river of moor and woodland – the great forest of Caledonia. It is easy to criticise others Butterfly signals success for the mismanagement of our landscape; the grazing of massive Lester Standen, a wildland ranger for the John Muir Trust, was walking sheep flocks, deer numbers past scattered birches at the edge of woodland on the north coast of kept unsustainably high, the the Knoydart peninsula when something caught his eye: a bright flash of persecution of raptors to protect green, fluttering amongst a patch of blaeberry. He pulled out his camera grouse, the destruction of native and crawled forward. He instantly recognised the vivid colouring of the woodland to make way for green hairstreak butterfly (pictured). It was the first recorded sighting commercial timber. However, we of this butterfly at Inbhir Dhorrcail, part of the Trust’s estate on the mustn’t forget that we also belong peninsula. in the landscape, we are part of it “The green hairstreak isn’t rare in Britain but it was very exciting for me to find it here,” said Lester. “This and need it to survive as a species. species generally occurs in small colonies where there is adequate scrub . . . the fact that they are starting to But is it really possible to recreate appear here is a sign that our habitat restoration programme is encouraging wildlife to return.” the majestic forests and associated Twenty years ago, Inbhir Dhorrcail was heavily overgrazed by red deer and, as a consequence, was a barren habitats of the past from their place of impoverished grassland, bracken, eroding soils and exposed slabs of rock. Today it is teeming with skeletal remains? That is exactly life; a mixture of trees and shrubs has grown up interspersed with heather, blaeberry and bog myrtle. Around what we are trying to do. Nature 350 hectares have been enclosed with deer fences to allow this regeneration of the heathland and woodland, is a great healer. It always fights drawing in an abundance of birds, animals and insects, including Lester’s green hairstreak butterfly. back and that is what we are allowing it to do.  John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 surrounding land would have incorporated into rock. This been covered with native loss eventually limits freshwater woodland up to the treeline. productivity and fish numbers Riparian trees are important can dwindle. Herbivores Biodiversity Al a n P S cott in maintaining a thriving accumulate phosphorus from the freshwater habitat for fish. The plants they eat so when sheep and

fish feed on insects falling from deer are removed from the upland P eter Ca irns , N orthshots overhanging branches and habitat, further phosphorus is lost aquatic invertebrates thrive on from the system. Contrast in regeneration of leaves falling into the river. Alder So, by reducing herbivore woodland inside and outside trees, in particular, are important numbers, we are increasing protective fencing as they fix nitrogen from the nitrogen levels in the river system, Many conservation practices atmosphere and accumulate but may be reducing the levels of involve the use of fencing, sheep other nutrients from the soil. the other essential nutrients such flocks moved round for controlled Their leaves break down on as phosphorus! The challenge is Black Grouse is one of the species grazing and the planting of trees. the riverbed relatively slowly how to reach a process in the short which stands to benefit from the The Wildland Biodiversity Project compared with those of other term that will prevent further loss regeneration of woodland. is taking a different approach. We species, allowing a gradual release and allow the system to repair as with the aim of extending it to are endeavouring to let nature of essential nutrients into the a whole and become more robust five. By then, we would hope to heal itself by using minimum river. This maintains the natural long term. When the rangers see an increase in all woodland, intervention and managing only productivity of the water system. shoot deer on our properties, not just riparian. We have a vision that which can be attributed to The loss of riparian trees some carcasses are left to be eaten of young Scots pine regenerating human activity. We have set up on upland rivers has led to by scavengers and break down in Glen Nevis providing increased vegetation monitoring to enable impoverished systems with the naturally, thus the nutrients from habitat for black grouse, red us to make informed decisions nutrient input being reduced their bodies are retained in the squirrels and hen harriers; of regarding culling of deer (rather and soil erosion increased. By system. willow scrub recovering on the than relying on number counts reducing herbivores on our Leaving carcasses is by no lower slopes of Schiehallion; alone), removed sheep wherever property through the Wild Land means the complete answer. of birch woodland tentatively possible, and controlled the Biodiversity Project, riparian Atlantic salmon may be a key creeping out from the gullies invasion of non-native species woodland has begun to recover factor in returning phosphorus on Quinag. But regeneration is such as rhododendron. in small areas with promising to upland streams. Radio- not enough. We can never step The state of upland rivers can signs of regeneration. This, in tracking shows that a significant back and say, “Well that’s that job demonstrate how the impact time, should help fish populations proportion die in headwater done.” It is infinite, stretching of the Wild Land Biodiversity by increasing the productivity streams or lochs close to their ahead for millennia until we, as a Project may benefit biodiversity. of the river system - or so you spawning grounds. Further species, can blend in once again In upland areas, water is typically might think - but it’s much more studies show that marine with nature, where we belong. clean and free from pollution. complex than that. Reduced Such water is oligotrophic grazing is only part of the story – it lacks nutrients, unlike and we begin to realise again many lowland rivers which are Muir’s wisdom: “When we try eutrophic, suffering from nutrient to pick out anything by itself, we enrichment. Those of us using find it hitched to everything else upland streams as a water supply in the universe”. may consider it to be good water Although nitrogen can be quality. However, this nutrient- replaced in river systems, in part free state is not, for the most part, by nitrogen-fixing alders, there natural. is no equivalent mechanism for

Only 2% of the native replacing other nutrients such as Al a n P S cott woodland that once covered half phosphorus. As phosphorus is of Scotland remains. Riparian washed out of the soils, it passes woodland would have followed to the sea where it can form our rivers and burns and the insoluble compounds and become Tree growth along river banks benefits water quality in Glen Nevis (above) and on Knoydart (central picture).

nutrients from their carcasses • Additional information from pass into the food chain and are Simon McKelvie, Biologist, found in freshwater invertebrates. Conon District Salmon Many factors affect wild salmon Fisheries Board populations; fish farming, The John Muir Trust overfishing, pollution and, of has launched the Wild course, appropriate water quality. Land Biodiversity This is only one simplistic snap Appeal, encouraging all shot of our immensely complex those who would see a ecosystem. If one link is broken, devastated terrain grow the consequences can be far into a thriving landscape reaching.

Al a n P S cott to invest in the diversity The Wild Land Biodiversity and beauty of Scotland’s Project is a long term, ambitious wild land. vision for future generations. It Visit www.jmt.org for is fully funded for three years (we more details. Trust members undertaking a transect to measure revegetation on Knoydart are already well into year two) John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008  ADVERTS

10 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 Restoring the missing lynx What would be the point of reintroducing the lynx to Scotland? Opinion David Hetherington* explores the potential consequences of restoring this secretive member of the cat family to Scotland.

IT could be argued by some recovery of woodland deer Research from the that there is a moral duty to populations, conditions for lynx Swiss Alps, however, restore a species that we humans are better in Scotland than they where roe and chamois made extinct in the past. More have been for many centuries. densities are high, practically, lynx could be a useful Lynx do not require pristine shows that lynx can deer management tool, bringing wilderness, as is demonstrated have a significant ecological and economic benefits. by their presence in areas of effect on populations Eurasian lynx once lived Europe much more densely of herbivores, not by throughout Britain. Bones have populated than most of Scotland. dramatically reducing their population size, but rather by changing prey behaviour, with consequent ecological impacts. During the lynx’s 100-year absence from Switzerland, roe and BENVIE NI A LL chamois clustered at high densities in areas of good feeding. After reintroduction, the expanding lynx population visitors that the area is wild and exploited these ‘honeypots’ of beautiful because the wild and predator-naïve prey, driving beautiful lynx lives there once down roe and chamois densities. more. After a while, the prey adapted The chairman of VisitScotland, by spreading themselves more the national tourism agency, evenly through the landscape, described discussion of which allowed their populations the reintroduction of large to recover. This redistribution of carnivores as a “hugely positive prey resulted in much-reduced development”. Reintroduced densities of large herbivores at lynx could bring real economic their favoured feeding sites, such benefits to remote areas as young plantations and areas both directly, as people seek of regenerating woodland. The opportunities to catch a glimpse lynx’s home range size had to of such a charismatic species, or expand considerably in order to indirectly, by serving as an icon meet their food requirements. of wildness. Given the fascination Foxes in Scotland have had such animals generate, a lynx no regular, natural predator for reintroduction project could centuries. Evidence from across attract considerable funding not Europe, however, shows that lynx otherwise available to nature routinely kill foxes. A Swiss study conservation. Map showing potential lynx habitats (in green)and habitat corridors (red of 600 lynx kills over 10 years It could be argued that all lines) based on author’s research. recorded one capercaillie and 37 the advantages of having lynx been found at several Scottish They would be equally at home foxes, suggesting that ground- in the landscape could apply sites and the species was known in a commercial Sitka spruce nesting birds might benefit from to wolves too. However, there to mediaeval Gaels as ‘Lugh’, plantation, picking off non-native having lynx in the ecosystem. are fundamental differences the name given to the Celtic god sika deer, as in a Caledonian Although extremely wary between the species which mean of light. The lynx is a Labrador- wood, hunting red deer calves and of humans and therefore that it is much easier for people sized, solitary ambush hunter of roe deer. Research I completed at very difficult to see, lynx are in rural areas to live alongside small woodland deer and requires Aberdeen University shows that undoubtedly beautiful and lynx. Its relatively small size and very large areas, mainly of forest, suitable habitat and prey are now charismatic creatures – potential very shy nature mean the lynx to survive. Given the early and so abundant that a viable lynx icons of wildness. Since their poses no threat to human safety severe clearance of forest in population could be supported reintroduction in the Harz and, unlike Europe’s other large Britain, depriving the species of across much of mainland Mountains of Central Germany, carnivores, it is not perceived its food and hunting cover, it’s Scotland. authorities and businesses have as potentially dangerous by perhaps not surprising the species A lynx typically kills and eats used lynx to promote the area the people it lives among. became extinct here. 50-60 roe deer in a year and in – “Incredible wilderness in the Furthermore, unlike lynx, As a result of 20th century some parts of Europe lynx control Kingdom of the Lynx”. There is wolves live in packs and hunt by reafforestation and the strong low-density roe populations. an increased perception among chasing prey in open habitats. John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 11 from wolves and bears. Losses to This has been effective with the habitat and help safeguard lynx are negligible. In landscapes annual number of livestock killed the eagles by monitoring their where sheep are grazed in open by Switzerland’s 100 or so lynx nests. It is this kind of positive pasture, as in most of continental dropping year by year to just 15 agri-environmental funding Opinion Europe and Scotland, losses to in 2006. By contrast, in the same which could permit the painless lynx are very small scale and year, the number of sheep killed absorption of lynx into the Consequently, they can cause localised. by the handful of wolves that have worked and farmed landscapes of considerable problems by preying In Switzerland, government crossed the frontier from Italy modern Scotland. on pasture-grazed livestock. In funds have been used recently to stood at almost 100. The availability of forested countries such as Slovakia and reduce conflict between lynx and Encouragingly, the white-tailed habitats and suitable wild prey Romania, where there are good sheep farmers by encouraging eagle already provides a template indicates that Scotland offers populations of lynx, wolf and changes in animal husbandry, in this country for the successful favourable conditions for lynx bear, the shepherds are concerned subsidising protection measures assimilation of a reintroduced reintroduction. Indeed, it is mainly with protecting stock and compensating for losses. and iconic large predator into the possible that their reinstatement, rural economy. Once persecuted in addition to restoring natural to extinction as vermin, this processes in the forest ecosystem, bird is now highly valued and may actually bring economic protected by the islanders of opportunities in rural areas. Mull, despite the odd lamb being However, reintroduction of lynx taken now and then. These losses in Scotland will only succeed if to the local economy are more the rural human population is than offset by the considerable closely involved and is willing to revenue brought to the island by co-exist with them. A meaningful wildlife tourists who come to see and respectful dialogue is the thriving eagle population. therefore essential. The Mull Eagle Scheme offers financial support to hill sheep farmers who manage their lambs in a way that reduces the * Dr David Hetherington works as likelihood of predation by the Ecology Advisor for the Cairngorms National Park Authority. The opinions CHRIS GOMERS A LL/RSPB eagles. Furthermore, the scheme The white-tailed eagle provides a template for successful reintroduction. rewards farmers who improve expressed here are his own.

‘Leave No Trace’ message spreads to Scotland Volunteers with sacks of rubbish left by walkers on The American-based ‘Leave No Trace’ movement is gaining ground in the Ben Nevis. UK and training workshops are to be held in Scotland. Toby Clark reports.

Eroded footpaths, tainted water camping or passing through the Alison sources and left-over lunches countryside. are as much part of the outdoor In Scotland, since 2005, the Austin scene now as micro-fleeces, wet Outdoor Access Code has feet and sky larks. helped to shape access thinking While the John Muir with a focus on care, respect aim to make links between the Trust works to guard against and responsibility. The evidence Scottish Outdoor Access Code ‘Leave No Trace’ inappropriate developments suggests more needs to be done. and ‘Leave No Trace’. Visit www. originated over 40 years impacting on wild land and has This gap may well be met by outdoor-learning.org for further ago with the United had success with repairing scarred the ‘Leave No Trace’ movement. details. States Department of tracks, as on Schiehallion, instances Already it is making a mark in The ‘Leave No Trace’ Agriculture’s Forest of rubbish left in bothies, human the UK, complementing existing educational approach is similar Service. It is now a non- waste near water sources and outdoor access education to the John Muir Trust’s, as political, non-profit litter crammed into cairns and programmes and filling awareness practiced through the John Muir organisation developing dykes play their part in destroying gaps. ‘Leave No Trace’ aims to Award. This aims to ‘encourage educational programmes wild places. influence decisions about how we awareness and responsibility for rooted in scientific studies Every year thousands of people can reduce our impacts when we the natural environment, in a spirit and partnerships. climb Ben Nevis and several walk, camp, picnic, ski, run, bike, of fun, adventure and exploration’. The information times each summer work parties paddle, ride horses, fish or climb. An educational ethic that aims is framed under the from the Trust and partner ‘Leave No Trace’ programmes to engage people in caring for, seven ‘Leave No Trace’ organisations remove dozens increase understanding about and understanding, the outdoor principles: of sacks of rubbish discarded on individual responsibilities as well environment is essential. There is • Plan ahead and prepare the summit plateau or dropped as offering educational resources an urgent need for more people to • Travel and camp on on the track. Yet this damage on for outdoor centres, schools and place personal value on these wild durable surfaces Ben Nevis and other locations is youth groups. places. • Dispose of waste inflicted by people who would, This autumn and winter the Visit the ‘Leave No Trace’ properly like you and me, claim to enjoy Institute for Outdoor Learning website www.lnt.org where there • Leave what you find wild places. Is this behaviour the (Scotland), with support from is a wealth of information including • Minimise campfire result of simple ignorance: a lack of Scottish Natural Heritage, is hands-on workshops, entertaining impacts knowing how to respect the great running a number of day-long resource materials, inspirational • Respect wildlife outdoors? Or perhaps people are ‘Leave No Trace’ workshops. The trainers and the promotion of • Be considerate of other not given enough advice on how events are targeted at those who responsible enjoyment. visitors to minimise impacts when walking, visit wild places with groups and 12 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 Inspiration Point

Many of us can recall a particular place where our eyes were suddenly opened to the wonders of wild places. We will be inviting guest contributors to describe the ‘Inspiration Point’ where they first encountered that unique sense of being in wild places. Our first contributor is Elizabeth Smith, Conservative MSP for Mid Scotland and Fife and a member of the Education, Lifelong Learning and Culture Committee of the Scottish Parliament.

Ossian: the best place since sliced bread

Loch Ossian photo: Mike Merchant EARLIER this year, before the start that the back doors of the minibus Many readers will know of As a teacher, I believed these of what I knew would be a very had opened and all but three of Tom Rigg, long-serving warden lessons should be the right of busy parliamentary day, I opened the loaves had spilled out on to at Loch Ossian Youth Hostel every child whatever background. my John Muir Trust Journal and the road - very neatly if one were in the 1980s and early 1990s; a As a politician, I have become my eyes fixed on the fantastic to take an aesthetic point of view. man for all seasons and the most even more convinced of that photograph of Loch Ossian. There was nothing for it but to wonderful raconteur and expert view, particularly in today’s Lots of happy memories stop and laboriously empty all the in all things outdoor. Apart from world of fast changing values came flooding back because bread bags into every conceivable being responsible for organising and consumer selfishness. For Loch Ossian is a very special litter bin I could find, much to The Run (the challenge was to me, the true value of education is place for me, not just because of the delight of every seagull on run the perimeter path of Loch not about passing examinations the outstanding beauty of the Loch Linnhe. Of course, the worst Ossian under the hour), Tom was and getting a job, although that surrounding wilderness, but also the man in charge of the water is important, but it is about because it was the place, 25 years pumping, a Heath Robinson producing well-balanced, ago, which truly inspired me with system which replaced the responsible human beings who my passion for outdoor education buckets and rope that we had to are able to cope with the full range and the important role it should use when the old pier was still in of life’s challenges and able to play in the school curriculum. place. He cleaned the chemical put trust in their own decision- However, if I’m being honest, toilets, lit the Rayburn stove at making. that was not my initial reaction. In 5.30am, filled the kettles, got the If it is 25 years since Ossian May of 1983, I had been asked to wireless to croak out a weather first became my passion and drive a minibus with a mountain forecast and lit the paraffin gas- source of inspiration, it is also 25 of outdoor kit, a 3x3 canoe lamps. years since the John Muir Trust trailer and sufficient food for 14 Ossian has an ambience of was founded. Like many people pupils and two adults for 13 days, both grandeur and magic and it all over the country, I am a huge S A LL Y R A E between the Glen Nevis and Loch Elizabeth Smith provides the perfect setting for fan of the work of the Trust and Ossian Youth Hostels. En route, an outdoor education project, everything it stands for and so I I was told to pick up 40 loaves of part was to return to William given its proximity to a dozen would like to end with a message bread from the William Low shop Low and ask for another 37 loaves or so Munros, the canoeing of thanks and congratulations to in Fort William High Street. to replace those which had been and orienteering facilities and all those who work so hard to give A simple task, you might think, flattened by the passing traffic. the spectacular views of both the rest of us such a wonderful and, after testing the patience of Later, during the long and the Glen Nevis mountains and experience in the outdoor world. many drivers while one rather very bumpy haul in from Moy Ben Alder. The hostel may have reticent shop assistant and I to Strathossian, one arm of the had its ‘renovation’ in recent loaded the 40 loaves of bread canoe trailer snapped, with the years, but in the days when it into the minibus, I set off on my result that nine canoes became boasted absolutely no mod cons, journey. At the roundabout beside six. As there was also some its splendid isolation and basic

Fort William station, I became damage to the school minibus, subsistence living taught the MERCH A NT MI K E aware of the driver behind it was not the most auspicious pupils lessons they never forgot, me tooting and gesticulating start to my career in outdoor about teamwork, initiative and furiously. There were a few blank education. But happily, things just the need for careful use of the seconds until I saw in the mirror got better and better. environment. John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 13 Ilya Maclean won his Bill Wallace ‘Go The and Do It!’ grant to lead a joint UK and Tanzanian team to develop ways of working with local people to protect Bill Wallace the biodiversity of the coastal forest of

east Africa. As he reports, conservation IL YA M A CLE N Grant initiatives that do not involve the people who live locally are unlikely to succeed.

Tackling conservation challenges in Tanzania Above: The coastal forrests of Tanzania host a The coastal forests of east Africa are a attention from biologists and on account of rich biodiversity, including unique mammals such globally recognised area of great biological an innovative Tanzanian government land as giant elephant shrews. importance and diversity. Many species are scheme. Below: The mysterious warbler - new to science? confined solely to these forests and often Several species of bird and mammal have found in a single forest patch. Forests only only recently been discovered and we found 100km apart may have an 80% difference in potential new species ourselves. We discovered their plant species. The forests are equally a mysterious warbler, not unlike a European important for their fauna, hosting no fewer reed warbler, but differing from anything than 12 endemic primate species, two described in books covering the region.

elephant shrews and 15 species of endemic Work is ongoing, analysing vocal recordings, IL YA M A CLE N bird. biometric measurements and phylogenetics The forest once formed an almost to determine with certainty whether the bird continuous tract from Somalia in the north to is indeed entirely new, and where it fits in Mozambique in the south. Only a few forest with existing taxonomy. We also caught brief patches remain. Most of the trees have been glimpses, and obtained poor photographs, of them from carrying out more detrimental cleared for agriculture and grazing or logged an elephant shrew which does not resemble activities. We are now working towards for timber and firewood. Logging has also anything described to date. a timber certification scheme. We have exposed the forests to a new threat: forest fires. The Tanzanian government has initiated also trained local villagers in using a list of As trees are felled, the understorey beneath the a Village Land Forest Reserve Scheme relatively easy-to-identify species of birds and once dense canopy flourishes and during the whereby local villagers can claim ownership mammals to monitor the health of the forest. dry season is highly inflammable. of a forested area provided they produce an Although much of our work is ongoing, I am approved management plan demonstrating excited about the early successes and look The project sustainable forest use. Working with forward to our work having a real and lasting With a team of assistants from the UK and our Tanzanian partners, The Mpingo impact. Tanzania, I set out to assess the impacts of Conservation Project, we sought ways in which these threats on biodiversity, specifically birds, forest use could be sustainable, both in terms Lasting impressions primates and elephant shrews. However, our of the resources extracted and for the wildlife One of my most vivid impressions of the visit wasn’t only about birds and mammals, the forests contain. Key to this process was trip was seeing and speaking to people who but also about people, many of them living providing the necessary training to villagers so weekly have to undertake a two-day return in poverty. While it is easy to bemoan the that they could monitor the extent and impacts journey by foot or by bicycle to the local town loss of species from the comfort of the UK, if of the activities. through one of the government-protected biodiversity conservation costs local people Working with local villagers, our Tanzanian forests to sell their goods. The forest, being their livelihoods, then it is not only morally counterparts and the district forestry office, protected, hosts many elephants. However, reprehensible, but is unlikely to be successful. we identified several measures that could elephants can be dangerous and many people Our aim was to find measures that benefit benefit people and wildlife. We have set in are killed. In response, the government hires both people and wildlife and to involve local place several schemes which encourage the scouts to kill rogue elephants. Elephants live people in wildlife conservation, making them sustainable harvesting of high-value timber. in extended family groups and have a complex feel part of the solution. Low-intensity harvesting of this timber has social hierarchy. The killing of one elephant We chose southern Tanzania because this minimal impact on wildlife, but provides can anger the remainder, making them more part of the coastal forest has received little people with the necessary income to prevent aggressive. This situation highlights to me what can go wrong if the needs and wants of people and wildlife are not considered together. The traditional ‘fences and fines’ approach to wildlife conservation often does not work and conservationists today must rise to new challenges. I and my team feel privileged to have been given the opportunity to take on this challenge.

• Bill Wallace Grants offer between £500 and £2,000 to independent expeditions which have an educational or scientific content and are heading for wild places. The deadline for the next entries is 15 January, 2009.

Working with local communities is an essential part of African wildlife conservation in the modern era. Often the children were

M A CLE N IL YA the most enthusiastic. 14 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 Green kayaking The Bill Wallace Grant Tom Pendrey was one of this year’s winners of a Bill Wallace ‘Go and Do It!’ grant. He paddled his sea kayak 275 miles, the length of the Western Isles, to promote sustainable expeditions. As he reports, his month-long expedition allowed plenty of time for reflection on human activity and sustainability.

I’d wanted to paddle up the Western Isles for years. I was also attracted to a self-sufficient outdoor life and was keen to challenge myself. But what would be the point if no one knew about it? I thought a website would be good, and so ‘Sustainable Expeditions’ was born! The aim of the ‘organisation’ is to promote more sustainable lifestyles by undertaking expeditions living off what can be caught and gathered and using environmentally friendly fuel and equipment wherever possible. happened on the journey? How did I make it a from the land and sea. I would like It begs the question: “How far do you sustainable expedition? to have eaten more plants, seaweed take the whole sustainability thing?”. The I love sea kayaking. It allows you to be and fish. However, the journey expedition gave me a lot of time to think about self-sustained for weeks and months on end, has inspired me to learn much this. I feel responsibility for my actions and travelling naturally. It is a completely silent more about what you can eat and how you can their effects on the environment. I reduce, re- way of travel and allows experiences of wildlife find and catch it. There is so much just at our use and recycle as much as possible. I prefer to that wouldn’t be possible by any other means. fingertips that we can use but the skills to use fix things rather than buying new ones. I’m not I cooked on driftwood and heather as much it are being lost, mainly, I think, as a product of too bothered by fashions but prefer to make do as possible, though I did have my emergency our supermarket culture. with what I’ve got. The main thing that we can petrol stove. I caught and found as much of So what next? Well, I’d love to paddle round do to reduce our impact on the environment my food as possible, including fish, cockles, Skye in the same style, though one thing’s is to use less energy, but again the question muscles, seaweed, plants and eggs. My for sure: next time I will know more and will comes up, “How far do you take it?”. favourite plant is sorrel which has a lemony do more research. Also, education could be a zing to it. I also ate some stringy seaweed major part of it. There’s so much to learn about which I had to spit out. If I couldn’t find or the environment around us. Within a square catch anything, I bought or was gifted food. kilometre of the wilderness, there could be The award allowed me to buy a solar panel for enough material to study for decades - outdoor charging safety equipment and a waterproof education, geology, geography, biology, digital camera to document the trip. I made zoology, history, chemistry, engineering, an electrical circuit using the solar panel to physiology, psychology. I also think that charge a small 12V battery then, using a £30 taking children on a journey like this would off-the-shelf inverter, stepped the 12V DC up be great, and they are the ones who should to 230V AC then, using a multisocket, I could get these opportunities - because they are the plug in all my chargers, including mobile future. phones, a VHF radio, camera and battery The biggest problem for the environment chargers. Fantastic! is humans, and the best thing for the My main regret from the trip is that I didn’t You can read Tom Pendrey’s blog at environment would be if we weren’t here, then get more research done into what I could eat www.sustainableexpeditions.org there would be no excessive greenhouse gas emissions or destruction of natural habitats. Do we want to leave this world having had as little impact as we possibly could, or do we want to exploit and take advantage of as many resources and opportunities as we can? I guess that comes down to your own individual values. For me, I would like a comfortable life, surviving as much as possible on what I have around me, as far as is practically possible. I would call this lifestyle. So you’re living a comfortable life, you’ve got a good job with disposable income. What do you do with that? Do you drive a 4x4 to some remote place in Scotland to appreciate the wilderness? Or do you get the train with your bike then cycle into a bothy and donate your disposable income to people who aren’t so lucky? I’m not trying to impose any opinions on anyone, just expressing feelings and suggesting questions to ask yourself. But what

John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 15 Saving energy: saving wild land Helen McDade

Policy “WHY is the John Muir Trust we still have significant wild land always talking about energy mass. when we’re supposed to be concerned about wild land and The ‘greater good’ places?” argument The John Muir Trust’s Energy has promoted more Some might argue that it is Renewable Energy discussion (frequently heated) worth sacrificing wild land for Policy within the Trust over recent years what they would claim to be The John Muir Trust supports than any other issue. Industrial- ‘the greater good’. The Trust, the development of small-scale, scale onshore wind developments however, would have to change sensitively-sited renewable and major electricity grid its Memorandum and Articles energy schemes, adjacent to proposals in sensitive locations if it were going to support existing settlements, which have put the Trust in the firing such a position and accept the demonstrate that renewable line, whether we like it or not. destruction of wild land. energy may be sourced and We have to address issues such The more I have examined the benefit local communities as biofuels (made from crops) claims and counterclaims about without impacting on wild land. and biomass (wood, etc. which is renewable developments, the Our response to a burnt) as well as off-shore wind, more convinced I am that such a consultation or planning wave and tidal schemes which sacrifice is unnecessary. It would application depends on the will affect our coasts. not achieve the aims claimed for proposed location: The typical Member reading it and would be a pyrrhic victory

this will be having one of three S imon Wa sserm a nn for the proponents, as well as a Away from wild land: reactions: The absence of a national energy disaster scenically for Scotland. Developments proposed 1 So what? It’s nothing to do strategy means there is no definition This is the thinking which within intensively managed with what the Trust was set up of ‘good’ or ‘bad’ sites for energy underpins our renewables landscapes are unlikely to for. production. policy (see panel) but, within be opposed if they are of an 2 The threat to the world from that framework, there are still appropriate scale. climate change is so great that that remit. That framework different approaches which can be the Trust should not oppose any has produced a Wild Land taken by the Trust. On the periphery of wild ‘green energy’ developments. To policy and a Renewable Energy The Trust can be primarily land: do so is irresponsible; a selfish policy (see panel) which provide reactive by looking at individual Developments proposed display of nimbyism. guidance. Even so, decisions are planning applications as they away from managed or 3 The Trust has to stand up and not easy since guidelines can be occur and saying: “Yes, we need to inhabited areas but adjacent defend our last areas of wild interpreted in different ways. object” or “No, this is OK”. to wild land will be assessed land. We have a very precious, Our first priority is set out in Or we can take a pro-active according to design, scale diminishing resource which our Vision “that wild places are approach and say: “There are so and importance to the local is at risk of being squandered valued by all sectors of society, many planning applications for community. We may oppose for no good purpose. We must and wild land is protected renewable and grid developments the development if it: be sceptical of claims that any throughout the UK”. which give us concern that there • significantly impacts on proposal for renewable energy This view is shared by the vast must be something wrong at EU, nearby wild land or protected must be beneficial. majority of people in Scotland. A UK and Scottish policy level. recent survey by Scottish Natural We therefore need to interact landscapes “. . . the Trust is not • is not supported by the local Heritage and the Cairngorms with policymakers and achieve community against wind power National Park Authority found changes to the policies.” • threatens wildlife (especially generation at an that 91% of residents think it designated habitats and appropriate scale in important for Scotland to have The need for an energy strategy species) appropriate places” wild places. • is not sympathetically The Trustees have agreed that The Trust has moved over the designed the biggest threat to our wild land last few years to an increasingly • is considered to be of an I get the impression that in the UK over the next few years pro-active stance. We cannot excessive scale Members who contact us on the is the wholesale destruction of make individual representations issue are equally divided between wild land areas by inappropriate in response to all the applications Core wild land arguments 2 and 3. How does the renewable energy projects and of concern which arise: the A key aim of the Trust is to Trust address those conflicting infrastructure. If even a few sheer number of inappropriate protect the integrity of wild views and develop a policy on of the proposed big industrial applications is a clear indication lands. We therefore oppose the renewable energy? onshore wind developments that things are not right at location of renewable energy in the most sensitive locations, national policy level. schemes in such areas. Members and the Trust such as National Scenic Areas, go The alarming reality is that We check proposed The Trust is a membership ahead, our wild land will be very the future of Scotland’s energy developments against existing organisation, responsible to the considerably diminished. As we mix is being decided, right now, landscape, wildlife and habitat Members. It is also bound by the argued on behalf of the Beauly reactively, on a decision-by- designations and against our Memorandum and Articles which Denny Landscape Group at the decision basis. Because of the Wild Land Policy. set out its charitable purpose. The Inquiry into the Beauly Denny absence of an Energy Strategy Trustees decide on the strategic power line, the integrity of the for both Scotland and the UK, framework and direction for whole landscape will be shattered we bounce from one individual the Trust and staff work within in those areas where, at present, planning decision to the next. 16 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 Policy

an overall strategy, there are no ‘good’ or ‘bad’ sites for renewable energy installations and each case has to be argued separately. “The current system encourages a succession of speculative applications in remote areas for renewable energy installations which will be subsidised at the end of the day M i k e M erch a nt by the consumers Loch Laggan displaying the ‘tide mark’ when water is drawn down for power generation. who will also have An Energy Strategy could bring a It is well recognised that ensuring an adequate energy to pay the increased logical approach - agreeing what energy conservation measures supply (which would be easier costs of long distance we need from energy production in businesses and homes could to achieve if consumption is transmission - while in the UK. This would be: have a very significant effect in reduced). We need to ask: “What the natural heritage • a secure and affordable energy reducing demand. Improved is the most cost-effective way to supply energy conservation would achieve the aims listed above, bears the damage.” • a reduction in greenhouse gas also address the increasingly with least environmental harm?” . (GHG) emissions in line with important issue of fuel poverty. The House of Lord’s select suggested targets of 80% (of 1990 The Scottish Parliament, in its Consumers subsidise committee on economic affairs levels) by 2050 “Far less inappropriate is holding an Inquiry into the • a commitment to protect our encouragement developments economics of renewable energy. local and global environment as and support has Regrettably, there is no national In its submission to the Inquiry, much as possible. energy strategy for Scotland the Trust urged the Scottish The Trust is concerned been given to or the UK which addresses Executive to work urgently with about the effects of climate agencies promoting how energy is provided, stored the UK government to produce change and the implications of the reduction of or distributed. The current an energy strategy that provides global warming for people, the energy use than to system encourages a succession a clear vision of the energy environment and wild land. It those promoting of speculative applications in generation mix required to supports calls for strong UK remote areas for renewable meet emission reduction targets and Scottish Climate Change renewables.” energy installations which will be and a clear route map towards Bills, incorporating targets of 2005 Report into Climate Change, subsidised at the end of the day achieving that mix. Current 80% GHG reductions by 2050, found that “. . . approximately by the consumers who will also policies are not achieving that but to try and prevent average global 40% of energy could be saved, and have to pay the increased costs the John Muir Trust is optimistic warming exceeding 2 degrees half of the 60% CO2 reduction of long distance transmission that reasoned, scientific argument Celsius. These reductions should target for 2050 could be achieved - while the natural heritage bears will prevail over blind belief. be achieved by a combination of cost-effectively by improved energy the damage. There is therefore a measures - including increasing efficiency. Energy efficiency perverse incentive to go for cheap Helen McDade is Head of Policy the proportion of energy measures have struggled to gain sites far from consumers. Without at the John Muir Trust. produced by a broad range a high priority for individuals of renewable energy sources, and businesses. A range of radical including wind-generated energy. additional policy instruments is required.” Despite these clear Reducing energy use is the recommendations, backed priority by all parties, very little has Despite claims by critics, the been done in this area. Far less Trust is not against wind power encouragement and support has generation at an appropriate scale in been given to agencies promoting appropriate places (see policy panel). the reduction of energy use than But crucially, and as the preferred to those promoting renewables. and prior choice, the principal Decision-making should not be measure must be the reduction of focused on exceeding secondary Wa sserm a nn S imon energy consumption. Within that targets (for renewable energy) context, renewable developments when there are better, more cost- need to take place with due respect effective, less environmentally- to the local and national importance damaging options available to of one of the UK’s key assets – its achieve the primary aims of natural heritage. reduced GHG emissions and John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 17 Climate change and sustainable communities project

Policy the Island of Eigg Trust to learn Households would from their experiences of working use less electricity towards being carbon neutral. than before by simple The John Muir Trust has always So what sort of community are actions such as using recognised that humans are we trying to create? lower temperatures on

part of the biodiversity mix. Imagine a community that washing machines. Sa ms ø E nerg y It is also the case that remote is thriving economically and After energy communities are often the first socially without costing the earth. reduction and to feel the effects of change. That There are no net carbon emissions efficiency measures

is why the Trust is participating coming from the houses. are in place, it will be Ac a dem y in the Climate Change and You may not see anything clearer what the other Sustainable Communities Project immediately but if you look closer energy requirements (CCSC), supporting communities you will notice the difference: are. Power that is Young people on Samsø discover on the edge to lead the way for All the buildings in the needed will be generated locally the potential of water power. the future. community would be well through a diversity of means The CCSC project will work insulated so that little of the according to what suits the alongside communities that live energy going into heating the locality. on or close to land owned by the buildings is lost. Insulating a This might mean biomass they are already well under way. Trust, such as our estates on Skye house is one of the most effective heating using wood supplied from On the Danish island of Samsø and at Sandwood, or land owned ways of reducing carbon emissions. locally grown trees, generating the 4000 strong community is by our partner organisations such For the average house, 30% of the electricity by harnessing wind totally self sufficient in energy as the Knoydart Foundation, the heat simply escapes through the power using small-scale turbines terms. The benefits of this North Harris Trust, the Galston walls. North Harris Trust is looking or from small-scale hydro approach go beyond the energy Trust on North Lewis and the at this approach now. schemes, or by using photovoltaic equation: new skills are required, Assynt Foundation. The energy devices used in panels to harness solar energy. job opportunities are provided, We will support communities buildings and homes would be It is likely that several types of there is investment in housing to reduce their carbon footprint energy efficient. renewable energy will be more stock with lower running costs, by drawing together and sharing The efficiency of household effective than reliance on one making them more affordable their experiences, both of devices varies dramatically only. and reducing fuel poverty. technical issues and also the between models. The most Will it work? On Eigg a process of keeping everyone on efficient models use up to 50% less diversity of approaches to Fran Loots board. We are teaming up with electricity. generating power means that Communities Officer

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18 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 How volunteers built the John Muir Trust Volunteers still play an important part in the Trust’s activities but, as Denis Mollison recalls, everything in the Trust was once done by volunteers.

“IF you had responsibility for Terry and I made the Continuing our review management,” the National arrangements for that Knoydart of 25 years Trust’s chief ranger said as we work party: I had escaped of the John Muir Trust discussed wild land in Glencoe, the treasurership only to “you wouldn’t find it so easy”. I become chair of our new land realised how right he was when management and conservation the John Muir Trust’s first work committee. In the spirit of John party landed in Knoydart a few Muir, our draft management plan years later. But I also realised for Li and Coire Dhorrcail set how hugely enjoyable it could be. out the need to discover as much By this time, June 1988, the as we could about all aspects of Trust had existed for over five our property: from archaeology years. to mountain footpaths and from It had been entirely volunteer- otters to woodland regeneration. run during the long negotiations So our first visit focused on that finally resulted in the surveys. Caroline Wickham- purchase of our first property Jones, an expert on early of Li and Coire Dhorrcail, and settlements in Scotland, helped during the year it had taken to us see just how many of the small raise the £105,000 to pay for it. bumps in this remote landscape This volunteer staff consisted were of human origin: from The volunteer workparty of June 1988 at Barrisdale. Left to right are Caroline of Nigel Hawkins as secretary, the shielings in upper Coire Wickham-Jones, Terry Isles, Penny Aitken, Bob Aitken, Richard Wood myself as treasurer, Ben Tindall as Dhorrcail to the nousts on the Journal editor and Bob Aitken as shoreline dug out to hold beached membership secretary. boats. Dave Mardon, the ranger Things were now changing from Ben Lawers, surveyed the rapidly. Our public launch that flora - I particularly remember April, at John Muir’s birthplace the beautiful small white orchid, on his 150th birthday, and an pseudorchis albida. article in the Observer by Chris Bob Aitken surveyed the path Brasher, had brought members into Coire Dhorrcail, which flooding in. Bob handed over above its largely intact zigzags to Keith Anderson to build a had deteriorated into swamp for new database for Members, as long stretches following decades numbers soared from fewer of neglect of its drainage. He was than 100 to nearly 1000 by the helped by Richard Wood, a tough end of the year. Bill Wallace, hill-goer and frequent visitor to mountaineer and professional the area, who later lent us superb accountant, took over as treasurer photos of the wildlife, including and we appointed our first, half- eagles and otters. time, member of staff, Terry Isles. Terry and I returned in Botanist Dave Mardon brought his skills to identifying plant specimens on the August with a different group Knoydart estate.

of volunteers, again in excellent Eastwood, who soon afterwards weather. We cleared invasive took over as Journal editor. rhododendron from the Twenty years later, there’s a gorge of the Dhorrcail river different balance between staff and started work on the path, and volunteers. Nor is it possible most memorably levering a nowadays for such a proportion of one-ton boulder off the path volunteers to be found places on where it turned a fairly steep the Board - Paul, Caroline, Colin corner. One of our volunteers and, most recently, Bob, all went this time was Paul Jarvis, an on to become Trustees. expert on ecology and forestry But the Trust still very much at Edinburgh University; relies on volunteers for a wide he subsequently recruited a variety of tasks, from digging student in his department, Mary ditches to expert surveying to Cunningham, to write her MSc writing web pages.

thesis on the woodlands of Li and All photos by the author Core Dhorrcail, thus providing An early volunteer work party in Knoydart clearing a one-ton boulder off the the basis for our regeneration 25 years of the John Muir path. programme. Another was Colin Trust continues overleaf. JohnJohn MuirMuir TrustTrust JournalJournal 45,45, OctoberOctober 20082008 19 An extraordinary Journey K EN P A TTERSON R ob B ushb y

On 4 October 2006 four batons, The baton comes ashore at John George Reid, MSP, Presiding Officer hand carved from native woods Parents and children carry the baton Muir’s home town, Dunbar, passed of the Scottish Parliament (centre), and joined in a roundel of elm, across Shetland. from kayakers to the Dunbar Sub receives the four batons at Holyrood were presented to George Reid Aqua Club. at the end of their journey. MSP, the Presiding Officer of the Scottish Parliament. Five from the cardinal points of Great The Journeyers travelled the country, generated local and months earlier the batons had Britain: The Isles of Scilly, St on foot and by kayak, by national media coverage and begun their separate journeys Kilda, Shetland and the North cycle and by rowing boat engaged with contemporary Sea. With the batons came the – altogether 16 varieties of concerns about climate change, ‘Message for the Wild’, carried non-motorised transport were access to the countryside and the by the Journeyers and delivered used. The Journeyers included promotion of volunteering and to our decision-makers on behalf schoolchildren and veteran healthy lifestyles. It attracted of all those who care for wild climbers, lone walkers, running new Members to the Trust and places. teams and family parties. Fifty involved politicians at six political For a total of 2,500 miles, the John Muir Award providers and events along the way. 44 MSPs batons were carried by 1,577 groups took part, three-fifths signed a supportive motion in the Journeyers over seas, through of the participants were young Scottish Parliament. The highly mountains, down rivers. One people and 10% were from successful Journey was a unique baton was lost in a bog – but socially excluded groups. event, uniting our core supporters found again – and all four were Designed to celebrate 10 years and inspiring thousands of others united at Ben Nevis before of the Activities programme to take part. It has provided the being carried the final, fifth leg and unite people and places Trust with a wealth of experience, of the Journey to the Scottish associated with the John Muir a network of contacts and the Parliament at Holyrood. Trust, the Journey brought the potential to stage further Journeys ethos of the wild to people across in the pursuit of our goals.

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20 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 Discovering, Exploring, Conserving: the John Muir Award story

In 1993 the Trust began Lifetime achievers exploring ways to promote the The first John Muir ‘Lifetime philosophy of John Muir through Achievement Award’ educational initiatives, a process was presented in 2000 to which was to lead to the John broadcaster and champion for Muir Award being established. A survey of Award participants wild places, Tom Weir. This has now engaged with more in Scotland was carried out. In 2004 the John Muir Trust than 70,000 people across the “I felt it was good just putting staged a prestigious Wild Land UK. something into it rather than Conference in Pitlochry when Graham White and David taking something out,” said one a Lifetime Achievement Award Picken (now the Trust’s respondent. “That was the most was conferred on the Cairngorms development manager) conducted fulfilling thing for me.” conservation guru, Adam Watson (pictured). He said: “I have never a feasibility study, liaising In 2005 the Scottish Education sought awards, and colleagues who chase knighthoods and official extensively with Trustees and Minister, Peter Peacock, honours are regarded as ridiculous. But I regard this honour as a real environmental organisations and presented the 20,000th John Muir one, not phoney like those other ones. If it does something to help assessing existing environmental Award . towards better protection of wild places and wildlife then this has awards in Scotland. The World 88% of John Muir Award achieved something more important than me and any of us.” Summit on the Environment Providers agreed that involvement Doug Scott, first Briton to reach the summit of Everest and founder promoted educational, social and of Community Action Nepal, received a Lifetime Achievement Award personal development. The John Muir Awards quickly in 2006. In 2006 more than 50 John established themselves as an Muir Award groups participated attractive way of getting people of in the John Muir Trust Journey all ages excited by the environment. in Rio and ‘Agenda 21’ were key Highlights in the Award for the Wild. reference points of the day. story 96% of Award Providers agreed The study found that only In 1995 the Award was piloted in a survey that involvement 0.1% of 12- to 24-year-olds in with several organisations and, encouraged people to value and Scotland were ‘doing something two years later, the John Muir care for wild places. for wild places’. All that ‘green Award was officially launched Last year, the 50,000th John stuff’ belonged to those with at Dunbar by Lord Lindsay, Muir Award was presented, fleeces and beards. The brief Minister for the Environment. as was the 10,000th Award in was to create a mainstream, Funding from the Rank Wales where Welsh language prestigious, accessible way of Foundation supported an Award and bilingual materials are encouraging large numbers of worker in East Lothian. By 1999, now produced. Over 1,000 people to get involved in the broad 51 organisations were using the organisations have been involved, environmental agenda. John Muir Award. ranging from schools to over- As its key education The outcome was a proposal In 2001 two regional managers 65 groups and from homeless initiative, the John Muir for a distinctive Award enabling were appointed in Scotland. The charities to expedition groups Award directly relates people of all ages ‘to do something following year, its fifth birthday which have undertaken the John to the Trust’s Articles of for wild places and creatures’. was celebrated at Holyrood Park Muir Award in 35 countries. Association, in particular: Four themes or ‘Challenges’ were in Edinburgh, when the 7,000th While the purchase and • “conserving wild places identified that reflected John Award was presented. In 2002 a management of iconic wild and their landscapes, Muir’s life and also presented a manager was appointed to run the land has always been seen as the both for their own sake holistic experience: Discover, Award in Wales. core Trust activity, the Award and for the sustenance Explore, Conserve, Share. To Expansion continued via has helped the Trust to become and inspiration they give achieve a John Muir Award partnerships with Cumbria Youth known to a wider audience. It to humanity”; requires activity that fulfils all Alliance and the Cairngorms has enabled the Trust to engage • “promoting an four. National Park Authority, each widely across society - more than awareness and The Award would aim to foster employing a dedicated Award 25% of Award participants are understanding of wild knowledge of John Muir’s life and Manager. In a survey, 90% of drawn from socially excluded places for their own sake conservation achievements and John Muir Award Providers backgrounds – and added and for their value to the of the Trust’s work in conserving agreed that involvement raised youthful vigour to its portfolio benefit of humanity”; wild places (see panel). awareness of John Muir. of activity, countering any • “working with local Underpinning the Award were The first nationwide suggestion that the Trust is merely communities and Muir’s principles and ethos, networking events - Gatherings a landowner. encouraging them to live particularly his ‘Wilderness - were held in six locations across in harmony with wild Aesthetic’ - that people need the UK. places”; access to the beauty and solitude • “stimulating public of wild places for their spiritual support to help protect and aesthetic development – and wild places”; that sympathy with the plight Lord Lindsay, Environment • “encouraging voluntary of the natural world was not Minister, and some helpers, participation in the enough; they must become ‘active formally launches the John conservation and conservationists’, as campaigners, Muir Award scheme at renewal of wild places”. as practical project workers, as Dunbar in 1997. scientists, as artists, as writers. ALL PHOTOS: KEITH BRAME John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 21 Classic text

Introduced by Geoff Simmons vision in conservation’ and in which so many live, as possible ‘Where does responsibility lie?’. It and immediately desirable.” Wilderness and was a masterful summary in little In his lecture, ‘The Plenty: more than 80 pages. technological exponential’, The 1969 Reith Fraser Darling was keenly Fraser Darling expressed huge aware of the insidious impact misgivings concerning the Lectures of uncontrolled population proliferation of technology in Frank Fraser Darling growth and its adverse effect the developed world. “As a world on the natural environment. problem,” he wrote, “pollution This brilliant set of six lectures In the second half of the 20th and population pressure are encompassed many of the century, world population was partners spectral and sinister. The concepts that have now become doubling every 30 years although question is whether they are going mainstream in conservation it has slowed markedly in the to shrink our lives to a condition Frank Fraser Darling and geography. What did Fraser last decade to approximately of life in death, or do we look Darling mean by ‘Wilderness 200,000 births per day, outward and proclaim that we live should spend their forty days and Plenty’? He answered this worldwide. Fraser Darling in a beautiful world in which we alone or with a companion. This question in his first lecture, said: “I see no early relief to the believe and which we intend to is a time for recreation of the ‘Man and Nature’, by saying: world’s population explosion maintain?” spirit for which too few men find “…population, pollution and the but I think active thinking and What did Fraser Darling have opportunity. Whether it is forest, planet’s generosity”. Then he drew working on preservation of the to say about ‘wilderness’? His mountain or desert is immaterial out complex interconnections in few untouched plant and animal lecture on global changes gives us as long as the wilderness is not his succeeding lectures entitled: communities and their habitats, some pointers. He writes: “The a man-degraded one of recent ‘The impact of man on his the positive sense in which I ecologist sees the decline of the time . . . The wilderness does environment’, ‘The technological am using the word wilderness, great natural buffer of wilderness not exist for our recreation or exponential’, ‘Global changes, and on the rehabilitation of the as an element in our danger. delectation. This is something actual and possible’, ‘The forward existing degraded environments Natural wilderness is a factor for we gain from its great function world stability, not some remote of being, with the oceans, part of place inimical to the human the guardianship of the world in being. It is strange that it has been which we have come so recently so long a place of fear to many to be a denizen.” I gained my men and so something to hate and first wilderness experience as the destroy. Wilderness is not remote RSPB’S warden on North Uist or indifferent, but an active in the summer of 1967: halcyon agent in maintaining a habitable days. world, though the co-operation is Fraser Darling concludes his unconscious.” I’m sure John Muir lectures with a moral point: himself would have concurred. “There can be no greater moral A golden thread running, like obligation in the environmental a Scottish burn, through this field than to ease out the living series of lectures, is the theme of space and replace dereliction by conservation. Fraser Darling gives beauty. Most people will never a résumé of various conservation know true wilderness although bodies and it is interesting its existence will not be a matter to note his comments on the of indifference to them. The near National Trust for Scotland. He landscape is valuable and lovable pointed out that: “…in 1943 the because of its nearness, not NTS appointed a committee on something to be disregarded and wildlife conservation and I would shrugged off; it is where children say that the Scottish Trust now are reared and what they take leads the world in the wholeness away in their minds for their long of its approach to environmental future. What ground could be management”. High praise more hallowed?” indeed. Most people associate 1969 Finally, in his sixth lecture, with the Moon landing and the ‘Where does responsibility lie?’, fresh perspective of the ‘Earth Fraser Darling returns to his rise’. Perhaps we should also concept of ‘wilderness’ which remember it for a slim volume foreshadows the views of James called Wilderness and Plenty by Lovelock (‘Gaia; the practical Sir Frank Fraser Darling? science of planetary medicine’, 1991). Fraser Darling wrote: “I Geoff Simmons has taught for 36 have said little of the wilderness years in schools in Britain, Ethiopia as a place where such men as can and Kenya. 22 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 Books

Cooling off time Floating stones

Wild Swimming Daniel Start Reviewed by Mike Merchant

“Thirty years on [from the big-pesticide era] over 70 per cent of our rivers are in good or excellent condition again. They are hidden havens for wildlife once more, secret corridors into forgotten corners of our countryside.” Thus John Muir Trust Member Daniel Start introduces his guide to fresh water swims throughout Great Britain. I’ve always been timid about entering fresh water (weeds, currents, pollution) except for the sheer bliss of cooling off from a long hot walk. Luckily, there is plenty here for those who like to plunge, paddle and dive, as well as to do serious deep-water swimming, and all the water described is asserted not to poison the swimmer. Ceramic stones lie on frozen Cam Loch, Suilven in the background. Artist The author is right, of course, about rivers being ‘secret corridors’ into Lotte Glob placed three stones on each of 111 lochans and left them to begin wild places, and perhaps the book’s greatest strength is how many such their own stories. Floating Stones is her exquisitely illustrated account of corridors it reveals in relatively ‘tame’ country - from the Wessex chalk the stones and their lochans. It is published by Watermill Books, £25. ISBN streams to the impassive flows of the Stour, Bure and Waveney. It’s very 9780955435812. A display celebrating Lotte’s 50 years’ work in ceramics can strong, too, on swimming places around some of the major outdoor be seen at the Watermill Gallery, Aberfeldy. (MB) areas in England and Wales. Tongue Pot in Eskdale in the English Lakes is pictured below; there are many entries for tarns and quarry pools in Saving Scotland’s Alaska Snowdonia - places that we normally speed by with our eyes on the road or the path. Wilderness Dreams: Scotland is rather thinly represented in this book with nothing from The Call of Scotland’s Last Wild Places the Clyde and only one entry, Killiecrankie, from the great Tay river Mike Cawthorne system. However, a ‘faerie pool’ on Trust land - on the Allt na Dunaiche Reviewed by John Donohoe below Bla Bheinn - makes the list, alongside its better known namesake over in Glen Brittle. Mike Cawthorne is the author fashionable afforestation projects This is a finely produced book. The author’s own photos are excellent of Hell of a Journey, the story now, as then, driven by badly and enticing. Vital information on how to get to the exact spot is there in of his epic winter traverse of directed public subsidy. He great detail, as are suggestions for games and activities, building a sauna, the Scottish 1,000 metre peaks. calls this northern landscape and the euphemistic process of,‘cold adaptation’. This new book has a different Scotland’s Alaska. Spot-on! See www.wildswimming.com and www.outdoorswimmingsociety. structure, eight separate chapters He culls hinds with Peter com for further information. on different journeys in and Duncan on Creag Meagaidh, around the wild corners of uncomfortable but necessary. Wild Swimming is published by Punk Publishing, £14.95. Highland Scotland. Why do we give credence to three ISBN 978-0-9552036-7-1 The heart of the book, and the metre fences, lynx and wolves longest chapter, is an account when we have direct evidence of a of his youthful ascent of all the strategy that works? Scottish Munros with a fellow Mike writes separate and refugee from the Thatcher generally sympathetic chapters regime. Skint, disorganised, with on the characters who took inadequate clothing and gear, this over the bothies at Strathan and was very different from his well- Strathcailleach near Sandwood. planned winter journey. Land seizures or squatting Other journeys are to are controversial strands in threatened landscapes. There is a the history of land ownership, lyrical description of the stunning a process not yet complete. Shieldaig and Flowerdale Forest Dealing with the Northways or threatened by hydro development, James McRory-Smith cannot an issue with which the John always have been easy and Muir Trust vigorously engaged. the tolerance and hospitality Sadly, anyone repeating his ski of the communities around traverse of the Monadhliaths will Kinlochbervie would have been find A’ Chraidhleag inundated well tested. by the Glencoe scheme. The Read this book. You will be casual way we are sacrificing inspired to visit these wild places. the Monadhliaths for power

NIEL ST A RT D A NIEL Wilderness Dreams is published Tongue Pot, Eskdale, Lake District production mirrors the damage by The Inn Pinn, £14.99. ISBN to the Flow Country for once- 1903238900 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 23 Winners of the Wild Writing Winner, Prose Writing Category competition, 2008 Cleft by Kay Sexton Cleft = declivity, break, chink, cleavage, crack, Winners of the 2008 Wild Writing Competition were announced at the Fort William Mountain crevice, fissure, rift, split, indentation. Festival. Kay Sexton from Sussex took first place with her short story, ‘Cleft’, winning a week at I’m telling myself this as I lash a rope around Moniack Mhor Writing Centre. Ellie Stewart from Bathgate was second with her poem ‘Giant’. She the same protruding rock that Matt had used. won a week’s self-catering accommodation at The Orkney Croft and Benethill Café. It’s just a declivity, a chink, a cleft, like the Joint runners-up in the prose category were Hazel Bines and Frank Wood. The second-placed cleft in Matt’s chin, and cleft can be a good poets were Andrew MacCallum and Stephanie Green. thing, a very good thing. Sometimes. I keep Rachel MacGillivray from Fort William and Alexandra Clark from Ardgour shared the talking to myself as I tie the rope around my children’s prizes, writing poetry in Gaelic and English respectively. waist. I’m supposed to belay, or something, Cynthia Rogerson of the Moniack Mhor Writing Centre and Kenny Taylor, writer and but I don’t know what that means - Matt is naturalist, judged the competition. the climbing expert, and he’s lying face-down at the bottom of a cleft, cleavage, fissure, rift, Winner about sixty feet below me. Winner Children’s Gaelic Poetry This is insane. It can’t be happening. It’s Poetry Writing Category Writing Category like something out of a horror film where the stupid youngsters go off for the weekend and get hacked to death by a lunatic. I start talking Stoirm by Rachel MacGillivray to myself again, looking for other synonyms Fort William RC Primary for cleft, to take my mind off my fears. It all started so well. Matt and I had been Nuair a tha stoirm ann, together for about eight months, and this Bi a h-uile duine a’ fuirich a-staigh. climbing trip was just a natural extension of Eadhon na clann. our hobbies. Climbing, he said, is like any Cha bhi daoine a-muigh other extreme sport - it takes you to the edge and beyond. It’s a test of athleticism, power Bi an tairneanach ag eigheachd, and lust - lust for life. Bi an uisge a’ tuiteam. It’s addictive. We’re both fit anyway, he’s a Cha bhi na h-eon a’ sgeitheadh, personal trainer and I teach PE, so we’d been Neo na coin a’ comhartaich. in the habit of stretching ourselves beyond the mundane, but the whole idea of it being Tha na beatainnean a’ coimhead brònach, just the two of us, relying on each other, was Leis an t-uisge a’ ruith sios. what made it sexy. No guide, no guidebook Fhathast nan seasamh laidir. even. Matt talked about hiring a little boat in Ellie Stewart writes poetry and drama. ‘Giant’ Is na loch dol suas nas áirde is nas áirde. was conceived one Christmas Eve on Iona. the summer and touring the Hebrides, one of us sailing round an island while the other Tha a’ ghaoth cho garbh. walked across it, swapping routes on the way Is tha an talamh a’ crathadh. Giant by Ellie Stewart back and spending our nights swapping stories Tha na craobhan a’coimhead marbh, from the day, and body fluids, and love - that A’ tuiteam chun talamh. I was the next holiday in line, he said, after this She uncurls slowly Tha mi a’ faireachdainn sabhailte, lifts an arm Ann an leabaidh agam. trails fingers through midnight. Oidche mhath! Tha mi ‘n dòchas Parts heavens, reveals The Wild Writing Gun tig a’ ghrain a-rithist! pebbles deep above. competition returns for Flicking the moon with ragged nail 2009! spills silver in the Sound. Winner The John Muir Trust is again running a competition for aspiring writers to II Children’s Poetry coincide with the 2009 Fort William No Cinderella, she Writing Category Mountain Festival. Our aim is to celebrate has massive, bony feet our landscape and wild places by that stretch into the sea. Ben Keil by Alexandra Clark encouraging new and upcoming writers P7, Ardgour School to write about their experiences and share III their stories in poetry or prose. This year’s She yawns, sea souks The frost shines in the sun light, judges will be announced on the website stones rumble down the beach. I gaze at this beautiful sight. shortly. A selection from the winning Grit rattles through her teeth, she knows An eagle swoops for its prey, articles will be published in future editions the graves are shallow here It’ll continue searching all day. of the Journal. and easily breached. A waterfall is the only sound. I watch the deer as they bound. How to enter I’ll keep on climbing to the top, The closing date is 26 January 2009. Nothing will make me stop, Entries, in prose or poetry, should not Until upon the peak I stand, exceed 1200 words. And look around this amazing land. Download an entry form and view further information at www. mountainfestival.co.uk or contact Alison Austin on 01397 705 049 or [email protected]

24 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 trip to Lochaber to teach me the rudiments of cracked, like this rock, but basically sound. I climbing. Now I was wondering if we’d fulfil try not to look, not to sob. He’s alive. either dream. I slow down, although I want to speed up. I told myself to think of good things. I was Right now my judgement is not good - if I going to lower myself into this cleft, down to rush, I could fall too. So it’s important not to Matt, and hope that he was alive when I got give in to the desire to move faster, to push the there, and no amount of worrying would help boundaries, to GET THERE. Discipline, that’s me do that. Good things: Matt, asleep this what I need. My job is to move like a glacier, morning in the deep blue light of the tent, me like the glacier that made this rock, probably rolling over so that I was able to run my fingers - although maybe not, I’m no geologist - to get down his back, feeling the muscles jump to there when it’s time for me to get there, and not my touch like fish rising in the loch below us. before. Remember, don’t let your mind drift! Matt My foot, my whole foot, touches level rolling over in turn, smiling as I sat up and ground. I’ve made it down. I crawl to Matt, reached for the camping gas stove . . . because my knees are suddenly so weak that I Matt is just unconscious, he’s knocked can’t walk. He’s got a nasty gash on his head, himself out somehow and once I get down but his crescent-moon smile is in place and he there I’ll be able to bring him round and make holds me, crushes me, to his body. I kiss him sure he’s okay before heading further down gently. He’s alive, we’re both alive. the cliff to where I can pick up a signal for my After a while we separate ourselves and Matt mobile. It will be okay. Everything will be laughs. “I must have knocked myself out in the okay. The problem is, I don’t know anything In 2008 Kay Sexton was commissioned to chimney. I can’t believe you came down after me.” about climbing - Matt was going to teach me. write a short story for national radio and I’m examining his pupils, belatedly realising So I’m tying this rope and sitting on the edge was finalist in the Willesden Herald fiction that he may have concussion. I hug him of this thing that I’m refusing to think of as contest. Her novel, Gatekeeper, is currently tightly, remembering how scared I was in the what it is. It’s a chimney, that’s what it is - in with an agent. cleft, crevice, crack, chimney. “Do we have to climbing terms, anyway. It’s a cleft, a crack on go back up that way?” the rock, and Matt is at the bottom of it, and rock in front of me, watching my fingers cram He shakes his head, beginning to untie the I’m at the top, trying not to think about how I and crush themselves into gaps and fractures rope around me. “We’re going the long way am going to get down there and what I’ll find in the rock that I wouldn’t have believed would round, Jules. There’s a path around the crag. when I do. hold a fly. Up close, I can see patterns in the The most extreme thing I want, right now, is So - going down. Me going down this thing; lichen that thrives where the sunlight reaches: a cup of tea and you curled up beside me. And this cleft. rust and gold and grey and green, feel them next time, we hire a guide, okay?” I see Matt’s crescent-moon smile in the under my fingertips: tiny hills and mountains, I look up at the dark shadow that bisects the tent’s blue gloom before he locks his arms rivers and clefts. Whole landscapes, covered by rock face. I can’t believe I climbed down it. I behind my back and hugs me into a kiss. my hand, crushed by my grip. rub my hands over my face, recalling the feel Down. I’m about a quarter of the way down, Crush. Me. My spine crushed against of the lichen under my fingers, remembering my fingernails scrabbling on the bare rock Matt’s chest, just a couple of hours ago, when its beauty. for purchase - why didn’t I put on my cycling he helped me traverse the crag to this new I smile, and Matt grins at me. I turn away gloves? camp. Crushed, Matt, at the bottom of the from the chimney, declivity, cleft, and hold out Down. I’m halfway down. The thing is, chimney. No. Don’t think that. my hand, pulling him to his feet for the walk although I’m doing it, I don’t really know how. There’s a sound beneath me. A scrabbling back. So I can’t look down, my eyes are fixed on the noise then, “Jules . . . ?,” Matt’s voice, a little

Writing student uses John Muir Award in schools placement Fiona Russell from Langholm is a student on Fiona worked with two primary schools. relatively flexible way of encouraging people the MLitt Writing course at the University of Canonbie school based their work on of all ages, abilities and backgrounds to Glasgow’s Crichton Campus in Dumfries. She Byreburn Woods while Glenzier chose their gain awareness and responsibility for the gained a John Muir Award herself some years school grounds as the ‘wild place’ for their environment. Both schools seem to have ago and when, as part of her degree course, project. enjoyed the project and I hope the children she had to undertake an eight-week work She said, “Using the Award has given will carry on with their interest in their local placement, she chose to use the John Muir the children a sense of achievement whilst environment.” Award scheme as a vehicle for her work with working as a team in a spirit of adventure, The project was run in conjunction with 36 children. exploration and fun. It is a fantastic and Dumfries and Galloway Arts Association.

Left: The Canonbie children are pictured in Byreburn Woods where they undertook their Award work. They received their certificates from broadcaster Fiona Armstrong. Right: Award- winning sculptor Elizabeth Waugh, who presented Award certificates at Glenzier School, using some of her animal sculptures to demonstrate how animals inspire her art. Photos: Fiona Russell John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 25 Classifieds

Self-catering BALLATER 2 newly completed 4* luxury self GLENELG Traditional cosy cottage, sleeps 4. Ideal catering apartments in heart of village. Perfect base for Skye (summer months) and Knoydart, as well as ABOYNE 4* s/c for 2, ACHILTIBUIE 3* 3 for hiking and biking. Tullich apartment (£350–500) Glenshiel hills. Contact Robert on 02089 463 319 or bedroom house overlooking Summer Isles. No sleeps 4, Gairn (£500–750) sleeps 6. Both also have [email protected] pets; children 7yr+ welcome. Mrs J H Strachan, sofa beds. 0141 353 3839, www.ballaterlodge.co.uk Dorevay, Aboyne, Aberdeenshire AB34 5BT. GLENRINNES, Dufftown. The Smithy Croft Self 01339 886 232; jo.strachan @virgin.net, www. Between BEN NEVIS & GLENCOE Catering, sleeps 2 – 6 people. Situated below Ben holidayfreedomscotland.com – Inchree Centre. Self-catering chalet & hostel Rinnes, near The Speyside Way, The Cairngorms, accommodation. On-site pub & restaurant Grampians and on the Whisky Trail. 01466 793 768, ANDALUCIA small house in the mountains with with good food, real ales and open fire. www. www.thesmithycroft.co.uk private pool, panoramic views, remote rural inchreecentre.co.uk for more info. Tel 01855 821 situation, 45 minutes from Malaga Airport. Good 287. HIGHLANDS 2 charming cottages, sleep 4, CH, bird watching, walks; Natural Park 10 minutes drive. open fires, lovely views. Cnoc Eoghainn: Kinloch £175–250 pw. www.las-fincas.co.uk, jimfdstott@ CAIRNGORMS 2 comfortable chalets or Dinner, Rannoch village, near Schiehallion and Loch Rannoch, yahoo.co.uk B.& B.in a modernised 19C. crofthouse. Dogs STB 3*. Ballindalloch Cott., Errogie: isolated welcome. Rural position near the Spey and Whisky Monadliath moorland setting, South Loch Ness. APPLECROSS Airdaniar Cottage. Croft cottage Trail. Aviemore 10 miles. www.mondhuie.com, 01456 486 358, [email protected] which sleeps 4. Situated on the coast overlooking 01479 821 062, [email protected] Skye, Raasay and Rona. 01520 744 320. www. HIGHLAND PERTHSHIRE Logierait, character 2- applecross-coast.co.uk CAITHNESS Curlew Cottage. Superb views, bedroom cottage overlooking River Tay and hills, attractive garden, STB four star. Otters, wildcats, near Pitlochry, Aberfeldy and close to Schiehallion ARDNAMURCHAN Croft by the shore of Loch seals, ospreys, puffins, wild coastline and flow and Glen Lyon Munros. Dogs welcome, 01952 242 Shiel. Comfy s/c cottage, sleeps 6, secluded & country all near. Sleeps 4+cot, sorry no pets. £290– 088, [email protected] unspoilt location, mature garden. Excellent views, 465 pw. www.curlewcottage.com, 01847 895 638. walking, beaches, rich in wildlife. £250 to £350 per ISLE OF SKYE, Staffin. Pair of 2 bedroomed week. For more information call 0131 557 2657 or DUNALASTAIR holiday houses, Perthshire. bungalows to let, views of sea/mountains. Sleeps visit www.dalileacroft.co.uk Secluded and unique cottages in Highland Perthshire 4, pets by arrangement, no smoking. Open all year, overlooked by Schiehallion. Four-posters, log fires, £210–£375/week. www.staffinbaycottages.co.uk, ARRAN Millhouse at Pirnmill. Non-smoking. Sleeps fishing. Pets welcome. Rare wildlife. Central for [email protected], Paul & Helen 4, 3 bedrooms, 3*. Spacious accommodation with touring. Ring Melanie on 0845 230 1491, cottages@ Webster 01470 562 419. spectacular views and secluded garden. £310–400 dunalastair.com, www.dunalastair.com pw; 10% JMT discount. Contact alison.kilpatrick @ LAKE DISTRICT nr Kendal. Converted barn, sleeps southmorningside.edin.sch.uk, tel 0131 667 2267. DUNKELD, Perthshire. Beautifully refurbished 2 up to 5. Ideal base for Lakes, Howgills, and North bedroomed 1st floor flat in village centre, lovely Lancashire. Just bring your boots, or phone 01785 ARRAN Whiting Bay, comfortable cottage with views over river to Birnam Hill. 01350 727 782. 665 834 for brochure. large secluded garden and amazing views. Handy www.holidaydunkeld.com for golf course and walking. Non-smoking. Sleeps LAKE DISTRICT Lorton-Buttermere valley. 3 well- 4–6, price £315–450 per week. Contact Heather equipped cottages sleep 2/5/8 in former hill farm. Alexander, 0141 636 0542, heather.alexander@ (ETB 3-star) Ideal for family reunions. Stunning btinternet.com views. Walk or bike from door. 5 lakes within seven miles. 0190 085 206, www.highswinside.demon. AULTBEA 10% discount for JMT members. 4* co.uk highland lodges in Aultbea village. Perfect for Assynt, GALLOWAY Comfortable self-catering in Torridon, Inverewe -- or aromatherapy at the LOCHAVICH, ARGYLL Warm, comfortable Perfume Studio! Sleep 4/5. Discount subject to Laurieston village, ideal for exploring Scotland’s beautiful southwest. Hillwalking, forest walks, lots courtyard cottage in isolated but accessible glen 18 availability, and excl peak season. www.aultbea- miles south of Oban. Miles of walking and stunning lodges.co.uk of wonderful wildlife. Sleeps 8 at a pinch, terms reduced for small numbers. Full brochure 01224 595 scenery on doorstep. £240-£350/w fully inclusive. 561, [email protected] www.assc.co.uk/maolachy, Mrs Georgina Dalton, AVIEMORE Luxury 2 bedroom cottage – sleeps 4. 01866 844 212, [email protected] Discount for JMT members. Contact GLEN AFFRIC Cosy, well equipped cottage, sleeps [email protected], www.aviemore- LOCH KATRINE Stronachlachar. Beautifully self-catering.org, tel 01738 550 412. 4 in the conservation village of Tomich. Ideal for walking, birdwatching, biking, fishing. Open all year. equipped cottage in L Lomond & Trossachs National Park, sleeps max 6, C/H, log burning stove. Ideal for AUCHTERMUCHTY NE Fife, superb lodge in quiet C/H, wood-burning stove, garden, dogs welcome. Details: [email protected], 01721 723 339. walking, biking, birdwatching, wildlife. Carol & Alan rural setting. STB 4-stars. The perfect self-catering 0141 942 8299, www.hillviewholidaycottage.co.uk, hideaway. One king/en-suite, one twin/large [email protected] bathroom. www.baincraiglodge.co.uk or phone Liz GLENCOE Two 4*STB self-catering cottages in the or Brian on 01337 828 386. heart of Glencoe’s mountains. Cottages are fully equipped and sleep up to six people. Open all year, MORZINE, HAUTE SAVOIE Modern 2 bedroom pets by arrangement. David and Chris Baker, 01855 apartment, sleeps 4-6. Located close to GR5 trail 811 598, www.glencoemountaincottages.co.uk in unspoilt Alpine valley 1 km from village centre. 26 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 Members only

Huge variety of walking and mountain biking. Geneva SUTHERLAND Spacious 3 bedroom bungalow airport 80 mins. 01223 290 565. in Assynt, on the Stoer peninsula. Extensive views, These pages are for advertising close to variety of walks and beaches. NC040317, MULL John and Sery would like to invite you to members’ business ventures. Lochinver 9 miles. Sleeps 6, £300–600/ week Argyll House where they have aimed at creating Up to 35 words. (no pets/smoking). 01571 855 360, www. centrally located excellent value self catering No charge, donations welcome. achardholidaylets.co.uk accommodation to suit the outdoor visitor. 01680 300 555. [email protected] www.argyll-house. SW LAKES. Remote cottage with stunning views co.uk S BRITTANY House (5 beds – comfortably sleeps 7 sleeping 2 to 6. [email protected] adults) near Quimperle, large garden, £500/week. NEWTONMORE Two bedroom steading in the On estuary, with small fishing port, cliff walks, coastal TORRIN, SKYE Clover Hill. STB 4*. Comfortable, Cairngorms National Park. Ideal location for a huge path, beaches. 01344 845 395 evenings. 10% to JMT. well equipped cottage. 3 bedrooms, sleeps 6. range of activities. Fully furnished. Call Martin on Idyllic burnside location. Magnificent view of Blaven 0131 336 3466. www.balvatincottages.com SECLUDED SNOWDONIA Self catering rooms, across Loch Slapin. £295–£535. 01471 822 763, bunkhouse, yurt, camping in upland valley [email protected], www.cloverhill-torrin. THE OA, ISLAY Superb 3 bedroom house in overlooking Conwy valley, panoramic views of co.uk peaceful seclusion. Sleeps 6. Open fire, well-stocked Snowdonia. Good base for your JM Award project, bookcase, vintage record collection, fishing permit. advice available. Del Davies 01492 640 906, del. TYWYN, mid-Wales. Situated on edge of small Near RSPB reserve. No pets. Open all year. Couples [email protected] village at southern edge of Snowdonia National Park. discount. www.islay-cottage.co.uk, 0131 553 1911. Sleeps 6 comfortably. Wonderful area for walking SEDBERGH Self catering and B&B in fabulous and other outdoor interests. Good rates for JMT OLDSHOREMORE (Sandwood Estate) Caravan, Victorian house, foot of Howgills. Sleeps 6 or 8, members. 07973 278 297, [email protected] sleeps 6, open April–October. Contact Anne double/twin rooms, 3 bathrooms, shower. Open Mackay, 01971 521 335. fire/stove, CH. Aga in kitchen, utility room, garden. Hotels, B&B etc. 01539 620 360, [email protected] PERTHSHIRE Peaceful 4* self-catering 4 STAR B&B in the tranquil village of Balnaguard in accommodation, north shore Loch Tay adjacent SKYE Sligachan and Carbost. Two comfortable, well Highland Perthshire. Wonderful range of breakfasts, to Ben Lawers NNR and Trossachs NP. Ideal for equipped, traditional cottages sleeping max 8. Either friendly hosts and great walking. Telephone Ann couples. Excellent hill-walking base, summer and makes ideal base for exploring or climbing. Please Croft, 01796 482 627 or www.balbeagan.com winter, 35 Munros within 20 miles. 01567 820 527, see [email protected] for details, including www.morenishmews.com availability calendar, interior and exterior photos. Tel BORROWDALE Traditional Lake District walker’s 01478 640 218. hotel. Hearty home cooking, open fire & cosy bar. PLOCKTON Comfortable well equipped cottage, Special rates available. Royal Oak Hotel, Rosthwaite, sleeps 6, set in crofting fields and on NTS coastal SKYE, Trotternish STB 4*traditional crofthouse, Keswick CA12 5XB. 01768 777 214, www. walk midway between Kyle of Lochalsh and sensitively modernised. Totally unspoilt situation. royaloakhotel.co.uk Plockton. Good access to Skye, Glen Sheil and Panoramic views of sea, islands, mountains: Torridon. www.stationcottage.com Torridon, An Teallach, Kintail etc. Sleeps five. Two HIGHLAND Perthshire – Coshieville House B&B bathrooms. Mature garden. David Hudson, 01449 offers a warm family welcome, comfortable night POOLEWE Ideal base to explore Ross-shire. 760 428, freespace.virgin.net/david.hudson5 and hearty breakfast. Nearest B&B to Schiehallion. Lochside croft, stunning views towards Great Guest lounge with wood burning stove. Open all Wilderness. 30 mins S to Slioch and Beinn Eighe STRATHGLASS, near Beauly. Beautiful holiday year. www.aberfeldybandb.com, tel. 01887 830 319. NNR. Fully modernised cottage, 3 bedrooms lodge, sleeps 4. Lovely, peaceful location. Log fire sleeping 6. 01445 781 307, seasidehouse@dialstart. to keep you warm on those winter evenings. Call IONA HOSTEL Independent, STB 4*, on working net, www.seasidecroft.co.uk Sue & Keith Walker on 01463 782 931. www. croft at N end. Self-catering, sleeps 21, stunning highlandholidaylodge.co.uk views to Rum and Skye, minutes walk from SANDWOOD area. At Rhiconich: Gull Cottage, beach. £17.50/night (£12.00 under 10s). Booking sleeps 4, and the Barn, sleeps 2. Both fully equipped SUTHERLAND Comfortable cottage on coast near recommended. 01681 700 781, www.ionahostel. and open all year. Graham or Lynn, 01971 521 717, Lochinver, Assynt (NC 053 264). Close to Quinag, co.uk Gull Cottage, Achriesgill, Rhiconich, Lairg IV27 4RJ. Suilven and other fine hills. Local walks and unspoilt sandy beaches. Sleeps 5, £240–400. For details SANDWOOD Lovely croft house near Polin beach phone 0131 665 2055 or e-mail jennymollison@ by Kinlochbervie. sleeps 7/8. £175–300 pw. Email yahoo.co.uk ALL ADVERTISERS! [email protected] SUTHERLAND Ardmore peninsula, accessible by Your ad will continue unchanged SANDWOOD Self-catering family bungalows boat/footpath. 2 comfy cottages. Stunning scenery, in MARCH 2009 at Oldshoremore. 3 bedrooms, sleep 5 & 6. STB otters + seals. Most northerly wood W coast unless you contact us. 3*, 4*. Own field centre, wonderful beaches, hill- mainland. Far from noise of traffic. Sea kayaking and walking, peace. Dilys & Michael Otter, Smithy climbing available. Marie Christine Ridgway, 01971 Either e-mail [email protected] House, Oldshoremore, Kinlochbervie IV27 4RS. 521 229, www.johnridgway.co.uk or phone 01644 420 267. Tel/fax 01971 521 729. John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 27 ISLE OF MULL Staffa House offers a warm welcome. Services Spacious, comfortable B&B, views of Sound of Iona EDINBURGH MOUNTAIN FILM Festival 17–19 and Ben More. Walking, wildlife, beaches, boat trips. October 2008. Films, lectures and exhibitions. Delicious meals using local/organic products where Fundraising raffles in aid of JMT. Photography possible. OAY. 01681 700 677, gillian@staffahouse. competition now open – all entries welcome, see co.uk, www.staffahouse.co.uk NORDIC WALKING courses in beautiful Ross-shire website for details, www.edinburghmountainff.com with a qualified instructor. Small, friendly groups to ISLE OF SKYE Bed & Breakfast, Mrs Nancy suit any level of fitness. Guided walks, instruction and FINE HARPSICHORDS, spinets and virginals. Wightman, Inveralavaig, Penifiler, by Portree IV51 hire of equipment; just come and enjoy. 01997 414 Making since 1969. Also, harpsichord hire. Repairs 9NG. East shore of Loch Portree NG 488423. Tel & 376, [email protected] and restoration, spares. CD and brochure with fax 01478 612 322, www. isleofskye.me.uk our compliments. Robert Deegan Harpsichords, PEAK DISTRICT self guided walking holidays. Lancaster. 0152 460 186, www.deeganharpsichords. LAKES Lonscale s/c hostel, detached, stone built, Millstone uplands, limestone valleys, attractive com, [email protected] at Threlkeld on slopes of Blencathra. Excellent base country towns & villages. Varied routes include for groups. Sleeps 22, ch, common room, drying lesser used paths. Walk directions, maps, ORGANIC KNOYDART LAMB. Naturally reared, room, showers, toilets, kitchen, 9 bedrooms (2 en- background information provided, luggage transport professionally jointed, vacuum packed, couriered suite). Janet Elliott, 01768 779 601, enquiries.bl@ & accommodation arranged. info@drystonewalks. fresh and freezer ready. Available Dec-Feb,whole or field-studies-council.org co.uk half.Members orders earn JMT £3. Iain & Jo Wilson, Inverguserain Farm, Knoydart, Mallaig PH41 4PL. SKYE. Double & family en-suite, single with private RICHARD McGUIRE Skye guiding since 1995. Skye 01687 462 844, [email protected] facilities. £28–£35 pppn. 4 course evg meal (£20) by Munros, scrambles and climbs with an experienced arrangement. Ron & Pam Davison, Tir Alainn, 1/2 of local guide. Winter skills and rockclimbing SCOTTISH OUTDOOR photo prints. Loch Eil, 8 Upper Breakish, Skye IV42 8PY. 01471 822 366, instruction. 5 day courses or private guiding. Richard Knoydart etc. Special offer – 2 prints mounted for [email protected], www.visitskye.com McGuire, 01478 613 180, 07796 467 886, paddy@ £40 (reg. £35 each). Size 8x12 approx, mounted to blavenguiding.co.uk, www.blavenguiding.co.uk 11.5x15 approx. Offer includes postage within UK. SUTHERLAND Overscaig House Hotel, a great Prints can be viewed on www.lawsidegraphics.co.uk base to explore the North Highlands. Near Assynt, SELF-GUIDED walking holidays in UK and Alps. Sandwood Bay, NW Geopark. Peace and tranquillity Tour du Mont Blanc, West Highland Way, SHIFTIN BOBBINS CEILIDH DANCE BAND For with a warm Highland welcome. Visit www. SwissAlps, French Alps, Julian Alps, Tatras, Lakes, all events, central Scotland and beyond. We call and overscaig.com or call Jan & Martin on 01549 431 Skye. Follow our routecards to explore by yourself. sing. www.shiftinbobbins.co.uk Helen Ross, 01786 203. Plus guided programme. www.alpineexploratory. 832 439, [email protected] com

SKYE Serpentarium Reptile World, award-winning SKYAK ADVENTURES Sea kayak expeditions, exhibition, breeding centre & refuge. Frequent courses and guiding. BCU level 5 coach. Unique Holidays, travel etc handling sessions. Excellent coffee shop with gifts. sea kayaking experiences in a world-class location. Easter-Oct. Old Mill, Harrapool, Broadford, Isle ANAM CARA retreat centre, Scottish highlands. Gordon & Morag Brown, Sleat, Isle of Skye. 01471 of Skye IV49 9AQ. 01471 822 209, snakesalive@ Wide range of day events, and residential week/ 833 428, [email protected], www. skyeserpentarium.org.uk, www.skyeserpentarium. weekend retreats. ‘Time for Trees’ work weeks, skyakadventures.com org.uk bushcraft, flint knapping, stone dyking, sweat lodges, meditation, holistic detox, Yoga. 01463 711 702, VILAYA TOURS based in Chachapoyas, Northern WILDERNESS first aid training, Health and Safey first www.anamcara.org, [email protected] Peru, the richest archaeological and biodiverse aid training. First aid supplies catering for remote/ area of South America. Hotel based and camping lone/outdoor workers. National Navigation Awards ANDEAN TRAILS South America adventure travel treks throughout the region arranged to suit. www. training. 10% JMT discount. Tel 07881 427 507, specialist. Group tours or tailor-made itineraries. vilayatours.com, [email protected] www.rubiconfirstaid.com Trek, climb, raft or mountain-bike trips – Andes to the Amazon rainforest – Galapagos cruises and sea- WALKDEESIDE Ltd offer guided walking holidays kayaking. www.andeantrails.co.uk, 0131 467 7086. in Royal Deeside and the Cairngorms; NNAS mountain navigation courses; Cairngorm Munros, W BEALLICH, a health and activity provider near Highland Way, Speyside Way. Quality hotels, local, Grantown-on-Spey. Yoga, mountaineering, massages experienced leaders. Alan Melrose 01339 880 081 in a stunning setting. Silver Green Tourism Scheme, or [email protected] supporters of ‘Leave No Trace’. Patrick or Abby Harrison, 01807 510 242, www.beallich.com WILDERNESS Scotland adventure holidays in the Highlands & Islands. Wilderness walking, DOUNE, Knoydart. Pine lodge, groups of up to sea-kayaking, sailing, canoeing, mountain biking, 12. Excellent food. Fast launch to access Knoydart winter walking, ski mountaineering trips. Also coastline & Small Isles for walking, wildlife, specialist family adventure holiday service. 0131 photography etc. Doune, Knoydart, Mallaig, PH41 625 6635, [email protected], www. 4PL. 01687 462 656, www.doune-knoydart.co.uk, wildernessscotland.com [email protected]

28 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 ADVERT

Contacting the John Muir Trust

JOHN MUIR TRUST OFFICES EXISTING MEMBERSHIP ENQUIRIES GENERAL ENQUIRIES Development Manager E: [email protected] E: [email protected] David Picken Pitlochry T: 0845 458 8356 T: 0131 554 0114 E: [email protected] Tower House, Station Road, Pitlochry W: Edinburgh office (see left) T: 0131 554 0114 PH16 5AN Please quote your membership JOHN MUIR AWARD T: 01796 470 080 number. E: [email protected] Policy Officer F: 01796 473 514 T: 0845 458 2910 Helen McDade NEW MEMBERSHIP ENQUIRIES E: [email protected] Edinburgh E: [email protected] SENIOR STAFF T: 01796 484 939 41 Commercial Street, Edinburgh T: 0131 554 0114 For the Chief Executive, Finance & EH6 6JD W: Edinburgh office (see left) Administration, Land Management, Chief Scientific Officer T: 0131 554 0114 Policy and Chief Scientific Officers Mike Daniels F: 0131 555 2112 W: Pitlochry office (see left) or use E: [email protected] the individual contact details shown. T: 01796 484 937

The John Muir Trust Chief Executive John Muir Award Manager The John Muir Trust is the UK’s leading wild land conservation Nigel Hawkins Rob Bushby charity. The Trust owns and safeguards eight iconic areas of E: [email protected] E: rob@johnmuiraward wild land including parts of Ben Nevis, the Red Cuillin in Skye, T: 01796 484 934 T: 0845 458 2910 Schiehallion, Quinag and Sandwood Bay. The Trust works closely Head of Finance & Administration with the communities on its own land and with the community Alison Russell Next issue bodies that own and manage land in Knoydart, North Harris and E: [email protected] The next issue of the John Muir Trust Assynt. For more information visit www.jmt.org T: 01796 484 932 Journal will be published in March The John Muir Trust campaigns against threats to wild land and 2009. Copy should be sent to the for wild places to be valued by society. Head of Land Management Editor, Mike Brown, at journal@jmt. The John Muir Trust encourages people to experience wild places Andrew Campbell org or to ‘Drumcreel’, Kirk Road, and to ‘put something back’ through the John Muir Award. For more E: [email protected] New Galloway, Castle Douglas DG7 information visit www.johnmuiraward.org T: 01796 484 939 3RS to arrive by 19 January 2009. The Trust takes its name from the Scot, John Muir, one of the © The John Muir Trust, September 2008 pioneers of the modern conservation movement. Born in 1838 in Editor: Mike Brown Dunbar, East Lothian, John Muir emigrated as a child to America. Production: Strathcashel Publications Project Management He went on to find fame as a botanist, geologist, mountaineer and Printed by: Hay Nisbet Press, Glasgow pioneer of what is now called ecology. He successfully campaigned for the establishment of National Parks to safeguard wild lands such The John Muir Trust is a Scottish charitable company limited by guarantee. Registered Office: Tower House, Station Road, Pitlochry PH16 5AN as Yosemite Valley in California. Charity No: SC002061 Company No: SC081620 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008 29 ADVERT

30 John Muir Trust Journal 45, October 2008