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A Weaver Looks at Tinguian Blankets

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A Weaver Looks at Tinguian Blankets Textile VOLUME 23 n NUMBER 3 n FALL, 2011 Society of Symposium 2012 news on Page 2 America A Weaver Looks at Tinguian Blankets Kathleen Forance Johnson with Yushan Tsai CONTENTS N 1898 THE AMERICAN they enjoyed some of the new Cole (1881-1961), to take up Commodore, George Dewey, amenities offered, but Benedict the challenge. Cole studied 1 A Weaver Looks at Tinguian defeated the Spanish fleet in deplored that their original cultures a group of isolated and little- Blankets I the Battle of Manila Bay, ending would never again be seen in known mountain people from 2 Symposium 2012 News the period of Spanish domination their undisturbed, natural settings. 1907-1908 during a stay of 16 3 From the President of the Philippines, and the Worse yet, those cultures months for the Field Columbian 4 TSA News, TSA Member News archipelago was annexed by had not been systematically Museum. the United States of America. In documented in those original Cole called these people 6 Conference Reviews the early years of the American settings by professional observers. Tinguian but they have always 10 Tinguan Blankets, Continued Colonial Period, anthropolo- referred to themselves as 14 Textile Community News gist Laura E Benedict was “Itneg” and that is how they working to document indig- are known in much of the 15 In Memoriam: Ardis James enous tribal cultures in the literature. Here we have 16 Book Reviews southern Philippines. In 1907 used the terms interchange- 17 Exhibition Reviews she wrote an urgent letter, ably. At Cole’s time, the now in the Field Museum Tinguian/Itneg were among 20 Calls for Papers, Calendar archives, to Dr. George the least known of the many 23 Tinguian Weave Draft Amos Dorsey, Curator of Philippine ethnic groups. They Anthropology at the Field were head hunters living in Museum in Chicago. In it the most remote mountainous she detailed the rapid disin- region of the Cordilleras in tegration of the lifestyle and the Abra district of Northern culture of hitherto pristine, Luzon. Thanks to the rugged “wild” tribal groups in her area. terrain and their habit of tak- Newly arrived American 1. Fay and Mable Cooper-Cole in the ing the heads of intruders, they planters and entrepreneurs Philippines, 1906. Photo Archives of were not settled into towns by THE TEXTILE SOCIETY OF AMERICA, the Field Museum, Chicago. were establishing large plantations the Spanish or Christianized by INC., PROVIDES AN IntERNATIONAL to grow the lucrative “Manila early missionaries. FORUM FOR THE EXCHANGE Miss Benedict made an impas- hemp,” abaca. Seeking plenti- Into this dangerous terri- AND DIssEMINATION OF sioned plea for a team of anthro- InfORMATION ABOUT ful and cheap labor, they built pologists to study and record tory Cole was accompanied by TEXTILES WORLDWIDE, whole towns for settlement by the endangered cultures of what his wife, Mable, and together FROM ARTIstIC, CULTURAL, tribal groups who were lured in remained of the “wild tribes” of they made an impressive team. ECONOMIC, HIstORIC, from their villages with promises the Philippines. Luckily, Dorsey Working together closely in their POLITICAL, SOCIAL, AND of an easier and richer life. True, heeded the call and dispatched investigations, they each had TECHNICAL PERSPECTIVES. the tribes went willingly, and his able assistant, Fay Cooper- unique qualities to offer. Mable to p. 10 HE UNITED STATES’ CAPITAL is The hotel will extend the excel- Local and Regional Tours to submit proposals exploring ready to provide a beauti- lent Symposium room rates various facets of the Textiles & T TSA Symposium attendees will ful and dynamic setting for the to conference participants for Politics theme. Presenting at the also enjoy unparalleled access Textile Society of America’s three days before and after the Symposium provides you with to the Washington, DC metro 13th Biennial Symposium, Symposium. a forum to share your research, area’s museums and collections. which will take place Sept. work, projects, and enthusiasms, Special behind-the-scenes collec- 19-22, 2012, in Washington, Host Institution and whether you are a scholar, tions tours are planned exclu- DC. The theme of Textiles & Receptions researcher, artist, gallery or sively for TSA at: the Daughters Politics befits the Symposium museum professional, or textile The Textile Museum, as the of the American Revolution venue in the midst of a presi- lover. hosting institution for the Museum; Dumbarton Oaks; dential election year, and will Presentations from all textile- Symposium, will welcome us the Smithsonian Institution’s generate lively discussion about related disciplines and interdisci- at a reception on Friday eve- National Museums of the the myriad ways in which tex- plinary areas are welcome—from ning, corresponding with the American Indian, African Art, tiles pervade our lives. anthropology and conservation opening of the exhibition “The American Art, and American Throughout human history to mathematics and political Sultan’s Garden: Floral Style History; the Arthur M. Sackler and around the globe, whether science. The Symposium also in Ottoman Textiles.” The U.S. and Freer Gallery of Art; the as intimate artifacts of inter- offers several different types of Botanic Garden will host the National Gallery of Art; Hillwood personal relations or state-level presentations: individual papers; opening reception and will fea- Museum; the Sewall-Belmont monumental works, textiles organized sessions of three or ture an exhibition of fiber and House and Museum; and have been imbued with political four thematically related papers; dye plants especially for TSA Tudor Place. The Symposium importance. From trade goods panel discussions; and film/digital Symposium attendees. will also feature tours to out- to protest banners, textiles have media. For more detailed infor- The Textile Museum houses standing private contemporary been instrumental in generat- mation, please refer to the Call a world-renowned collection of fiber art collections and to the ing, supporting, and challenging for Papers published in the previ- over 18,000 textiles dating as far embassies of several nations, political power. Textiles & Politics ous newsletter and posted on the back as 3,000 BCE and is locat- which are not accessible to the will explore the ways in which TSA website, ed in Washington, DC’s Embassy general public. Additionally, politics influence the aesthetics, http://www.textilesociety.org/ Row. The U.S. Botanic Garden, Symposium attendees will have production, materials, uses, and symposia_2012.htm one of the oldest botanic gardens the opportunity to explore countless other aspects of tex- TSA members can also sup- in North America, is the brain- the rich textile offerings of the tiles (and vice versa). port the Symposium planning child of Thomas Jefferson and mid-Atlantic region through process by sharing the Call for James Madison, and has been in pre- and post-conference tours to Symposium Papers with colleagues who may continuous operation since 1850. Richmond, VA, Baltimore, MD, Headquarters be interested in participating. and the Winterthur Museum in We are accepting proposals The TSA 2012 Symposium Delaware. Organizing Committee is busy through October 1 at planning programs and events http://www.textilesociety.org/ to make this Symposium one Proposals Sought symposia_2012.htm of the most memorable. Our We hope you will plan to join us TSA members are a critical part headquarters is the Washington in Washington, DC to explore of the Symposium planning pro- Court Hotel, situated in down- the myriad ways textiles pervade cess. We invite TSA members town DC, in close proximity our lives and express political to the Smithsonian Institution messages. on the National Mall, other Left, The Textile Museum. Above, museums and galleries, his- Cushion Cover, Ottoman, Istanbul, toric monuments, transportation Turkey, 17th century, velvet. The Textile Museum 1.54, acquisition of hubs, and superb restaurants. George Hewitt Myers, 1951. Photo: Renée Comet. 2 tsA NEWSLEttER tsa board OF directors Planned for late August was course need financial and intel- OFFICERS a San Francisco event organized lectual support, along with all the PRESIDEnt by TSA Board member and volunteer efforts of our Board Elena Phipps From The artist, Barbara Shapiro, to see and our members. TEL 212/349-4485 Korean textiles at the Museum of [email protected] President Craft and Folk Art, the Gertrude Symposium 2012 VICE PRESIDEnt Stein exhibition (including her The 13th Biennial Symposium Matilda McQuaid TEL 212/849-8451 famous vest) at the Jewish in Washington, DC, Sept 19-21, [email protected] Museum, and African quilts at 2012, will be the perfect place to RECORDING SECRETARY the African Diaspora Museum. converge with all of our perspec- Roxane Shaughnessy Dear TSA Members: Unfortunately, this event was tives and interests in global issues TEL 416/599-5321 ext. 2226 cancelled. We would like to relating to textiles, and I look for- [email protected] This has been a very active sum- plan more events like these, and ward to seeing you all there! TREASURER mer for TSA. We have made the Mary Littrell would be happy to hear from Executive Committee transition, TEL 970/491-5811 you about possibilities in your Best, [email protected] since Ruth Scheuing stepped regions. Elena down from her Presidency in DIRECTOR OF IntERNAL RELATIOns Elena Phipps, President, TSA Mary Anne Jordan the Spring. Matilda McQuaid Travel Opportunities [email protected] TEL 785/864-3919 has actively filled the position of [email protected] This has been a difficult year for Vice-President, while I stepped DIRECTOR OF EXTERNAL RELATIOns international travel programs, into the Presidency. This move Michele A. Hardy and sadly, TSA has had to cancel TEL 403/220-4137 was earlier than planned, as both the India and Korea tour [email protected] normally, I would have come programs. PAst PRESIDEnt into the position at next year’s I had the opportunity to Patricia Hickman Symposium.
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