INSIDE: The Gardens at Villa Carlotta 2 What to See in Bellagio 5 m o c
. Where to Stay on Lake Como 6 r k c i l f
, n
e Visiting Gravedona 8 g n i r m u o u c . b r n k a c i v l f n
i , n w i l d d e u a M
Lake Como at night a i l u SPECIAL REPORT: LAKE COMO J Bellagio Two Lake Como dream of ® Villages
etyon d Ethex ciptyl oof Crome o, the lake itself is Italy’s deepest (though not its biggest: nearby LBake Garda has that honor, followed by Lake Maggiore ) and is often Volume 13, Issue 10 www.dreamofitaly.com December 2014/January 2015 referred to as Italy’s prettiest. With ITA LY its truly stunning scenery and historical significance, including World War II history in the village The Electric City of Como Awaits of Dongo (see sidebar), where Mussolini and other fascist ministers taly is preparing to welcome from Como directly to the Expo is were captured on April 27, 1945, record numbers of visitors in expected to open soon. opportunities for a variety of I 2015 when Milan hosts the outdoor pursuits also abound. Universal Exposition for six months, The “New City” from May through October. There are gorgeous villas built More than 20 million people Culturally and historically, between 1500 and 1800 that are are expected (eight million Como is large enough to open to the public; lush gardens that from outside the European boast plenty of interest, thrive even in the winter months Union) and many of them though it retains a very due to a unique eco-climate; will travel beyond relaxed feel. As Dream of culinary specialties like lake fish, Lombardy’s capital city. Italy readers may already polenta, salami, risotto, honey, wine While Milan will certainly know from previous and a variety of cheeses; and the be in the spotlight, the town articles or their own combination of rural mountain of Como — and all of Lake travels, the city dates back villages and elegant towns. Como — is poised to attract to the 1st century BC, when The Life Electric perhaps the greatest number it was founded by the Plus there’s the presence of celebrity of those travelers. Romans as Novum Comum (“New couple George Clooney and Amal City”) and in typical Roman fashion it Alamuddin in the village of Laglio, Geographically, Como is perfectly had a grid of perpendicular roads and of course — Lake Como’s moniker situated to be the obvious second walls on all sides, a layout that is still of Un Mondo Unico al Mondo (A destination: the city is 27 miles from recognizable today. World Within a World) seems Milan and is served by bus and train. entirely apt. Additionally, a new train connection continued on page 4 continued on page 2 Como is home to 85,000 people. Other Villages continued from page 1
Just as each villa on Lake Como is not a gem. The Villa Serbelloni, which unique, every town and village around dates from the end of the 1400s, has the lake has its own attributes, and the certainly helped to bring prestige to the northern part of the lake has a very town, especially since it was donated to different feel from the southern part. the Rockefeller Foundation by former m o c
An ideal itinerary should include visits . owner Helena (known as Ella) Holbrook r k c i l f
to several towns, and two I Walker, granddaughter of Hiram , o h recommend are Bellagio and c Walker and wife of Prince Alessandro e h o h
Gravedona for two quite different c von Thurn und Taxis) in 1959. i d experiences. Bellagio And the 5-star Grand Hotel Villa the point where the lake splits, and it Serbelloni, originally built for the Bellagio would be an extremely lovely spot even Fizzoni family in the mid-1800s, has 5
1 Bellagio sits at the tip of a promontory at if the town that has grown on it were insured a steady stream of illustrious 0 2
y r a u n a J
/
4 1 0 2
Tremezzo: Villa Carlotta r e According to Monica Neroni, author of the must- he died in 1826, only one of his two sons, Luigi, cated as it was German-owned, but instead of b
m have guide was still alive. Luigi was married to a French being sold off, Villa Carlotta was preserved as a e Villas and Gardens: The Wonders of c e Lake Como (in Italian and English and available at woman, Emilia Seillière, and was a naturalized non-profit institution. D nearly every newsstand and souvenir shop), about French citizen. He inherited all his father’s posses - The garden is laid out on different levels with con - 2 90% of the villas on Lake Como are privately sions, but when he died in 1836, he had no will necting gravel paths, stone terraces, and view - owned. Happily, a few villas and their gardens are nor direct heirs. The villa was therefore passed points that emphasize the natural, sloping terrain.
m open to the public. down to distant and disinterested relatives who o
c Over 500 species of trees and flowers from .
y put it up for sale. Emilia l
a Neroni writes that “every one of the villas consti - all over the world coexist here, including t
i lived in a more mod - f
o tutes a unique architectural treasure,” but space bamboo, palm trees, papyrus, cacti, citrus est residence in m
a limitations allow us to highlight only one, and that trees, and about 500 varieties of azalea – e r
d one is the in it’s well worth it to time a visit in the spring . Villa Carlotta Tremezzo, w
w “a true architectural masterpiece” when they are in bloom and cascading w says Neroni, who adds that the down the hillside. villa’s elegant façade “has since Among the noteworthy artworks inside become one of the symbols of Lake the villa are sculptor Antonio Canova’s Como.” Palamede, Amore e Psiche, by Canova’s The villa’s history begins in the late protégé Adamo Tadolini, the detached All photos by igcamercon, flickr.com 1600s, with Marquis Giorgio Clerici, fresco The Apotheosis of Napoleon by who was from a silk merchant family and was a Tremezzo and Andrea Appiani, and the Carrara marble banker and president of the Senate of Lombardy. founded a religious bas-relief Alexander the Great Entering In 1801 the property was acquired by Gian institution in memo - Babylonia by Danish sculptor Bertel Battista Sommariva, a Milanese politician who ry of her family. Thorvaldsen — this 108-foot work wraps formed influential friendships — including with around the walls of the Marble Salon and In 1844 the villa was — and became one of the features a succession of scenes, figures, and Napoleon Bonaparte sold to Princess Marianne of Nassau, most famous art collectors of his time; in fact, Villa quotations from Antique and Renaissance art Albert of Prussia’s wife, and the couple gave the Carlotta was thought to be a pilgrimage for con - around the figure of Alexander. (Via Regina, 2; 39- property to their daughter Charlotte when she noisseurs and art lovers. 0344-4040; www.villacarlotta.it ; open March to married the prince of Saxe-Meiningen, Duke October) Sommariva had an unhappy marriage, and when Georg II. After World War I, the Villa was confis - 26 movies have been set visitors. Michelin-star chef row of fully grown lilac Ettore Bocchia oversees its trees, it is a positively m o c
Mistral restaurant. . enchanting spot for an r k c i l f
afternoon glass of Prosecco. , e c It’s easy to while away hours c u strolling through picturesque n Ristorante Alle Darsene di Bellagio Bellagio, with its steep Loppia (Via Melzi d’Eril,1 cobblestone alleys, stairways, medieval in Loppia di Bellagio; 39-031-952-069; walls, pretty vistas, colorful buildings, www.ristorantedarsenediloppia.com ), and distinctive boutiques. After a few minutes from the center of looking at many of the shop windows Bellagio, offers a small but very good and stepping into the stores, you may menu with lake fish, risotto and conclude that the wares don’t vary uncommon desserts. The outdoor 5
much; but there are some standouts terrace overlooks the Loppia dock and 1 0 2
that are definitely worthwhile: its indoor room is warm and inviting, y r
and as it’s located outside of town it is a Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni u n
Azalea Silk of Como and filled with locals. a J
/ Azalea Italian Style The Tacchi family has been in the olive 4 1 0
(www.azaleabellagio.com ) are at wood-carving business since 1855, and The restaurant is very near the Villa 2
r
numbers 31 and 41 respectively on the Tacchi Luigi (via Garibaldi, 22; Melzi, built in the early 1800s for e b
Salita Serbelloni (the Serbelloni steps, www.bellagio.co.nz/tacchi ) offers a m continued on page 8 e c which are still referred to by locals as wide range of items, including e “the ditch ”, as in medieval times this mappamondi (globes, even a few that D was the ditch used for defending the double as minibars) and nifty stainless 3 old town, known as the Borgo ). steel graters that fit neatly over olive dream of ®
Though the Salita is a busy alleyway wood boxes. Saraceno (via Giuseppe m o c .
lined with shops and places to eat, the Garibaldi, 39), run by Silvia Saraceno y l a
ITALY t
Azalea boutiques are unique. who used to work for Giorgio i Kathleen A. McCabe f Armani, stocks a very appealing o Editor and Publisher m a e
The two stores are family-run since 1968, selection of colorful bracelets and r d Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe . and they offer the town’s best selection necklaces made of resin, as well as w
Design: Kim Leaird w
and choice of color of silk ties, scarves, other unusual pieces of jewelry, silk w www.leaird-designs.com and shawls. Scarves alone are available scarves, and handbags. in silk and cashmere blend, merino Dream of Italy, the subscription travel newsletter cover - ing Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a wool, crinkled silk, silk and cotton, There are lots of places to eat in year. Delivery by mail is $87 in the U.S., Canada and rough silk, silk pashmina, silk taffeta, etc. Bellagio, though most are not a good abroad. A digital subscription (downloadable PDFs) costs $77 per year. Subscriptions include online access to There are also a few handbags, as well as value. Ristorante Bilacus (via more than 115 back issues and regular e-mail updates. men’s polo, T-shirts and 100% cotton Serbelloni, 32; 39- 031- 950480; Three ways to subscribe: button-down shirts (both Aldo Bugatti www.bilacusbellagio.it ) has 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 2025, and Azalea brands). overlooked the Salita Serbelloni since Denver, CO 80201 2. Call 877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-297-3708 1965 and serves a broad selection of 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, Rosamaria Vergottini’s Gold Crown pastas, fish, and meat dishes and Mastercard and American Express accepted) Shop (Piazza Mazzini, 20) has a good simple desserts on its outdoor terrace Editorial feedback is welcome. E-mail: [email protected] selection of antique and vintage and indoor dining room. Few Advertising opportunities are available. jewelry, as well as nice contemporary foreigners seem to know that the E-mail: [email protected] pieces, and wood carver Giacomo terrace of the Hotel Florence (Piazza Copyright © 2015 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights Pacio (via Panoramica, 48; Giuseppe Mazzini; Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per - www.magicopacio.it ) has some wacky www.hotelflorencebellagio.it ) mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide information that is accurate and reliable; however, creations but also models of the local welcomes non-guests, and with tables Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that Lucia fishing boats. set at the lake’s edge, underneath a may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com in part on Lake Como. Como continued from page 1
The city’s port occupied what is today Sociale for a season. The river that runs next to the complex Piazza Cavour, created in 1871 when the was nicknamed “Fashion River” a few port was filled in. The heart of Como is City of Silk decades ago, when the colors from the within the walls — medieval, but there dyes ran into it — locals would joke is a section of the Roman Porta Pretoria Como has been known as the City of that they knew what next season’s below ground near the Porta Torre — Silk since the late 1800s, and though designer colors would be based on the and just outside them. Within the walls silkworm breeding ended here color of the river. (which are open only to pedestrians in the 1950s (today the and cyclists) are the noteworthy producing countries are China, The small bookshop also Cathedral of Santa Maria Maggiore, the India, Brazil, Uzbekistan, sells a nice selection of Broletto (the former town hall, built in Thailand, Japan and Vietnam), silk scarves at good 1215) Basilica of Saint Fedele, a handful the finishing end of silk prices. Another source of appealing shops and just the right production continues, and for high quality silks is 5
1 number of cafes and restaurants. many Comaschi (Como Mantero, a four- 0 2
residents) still work in the generation family y r
a Just outside the walls are the Palazzo industry. business founded in 1892. u m o n c . a Terragni (formerly the Casa del Fascio, a r Though the company J k
c i / l f
,
masterpiece of Italian Rationalism The Silk Museum, which is f headquarters is on via 4 f 1 u r 0 b s
2 designed by Giuseppe Terragni for the outside the historic center at Volta, there is no retail
a r
e Fascist party in 1932) and the Teatro via Castelnuovo, 9 is in the shop in town, but there is
b Porta Torre
m Sociale, home of Como’s classical music same building as the Setificio an outlet store at Fox e c
e concerts, dance, drama, and theater (textile school) and was founded in Town Factory Stores (via Angelo D performances and opera — in 1943, 1990. Exhibits detail the entire process Maspoli, 18) in Mendrisio, Switzerland 4 when Milan’s La Scala opera house was of production, including weaving, the (about a 30 minute drive, severely damaged from bombings, control and measurement of yarns and www.foxtown.ch ).
m performances were staged at the Teatro fabrics, dyeing, printing, and finishing. o c . y l a t i f
o also available, and you can fill bags from a large
m Where to Eat in Como Where to Shop in Como a candy bar for gifts. e r d .
w The lively (attached to I am a fan of Superga sneakers, and spied a leop - w Ristorante Caffé Teatro In 2007, Monocle wrote about A.Gi.Emme w the Teatro Sociale on Piazza Verdi ) turns out ard-print pair in the window of Renee Rigamonti (www.agiemme.com ) that it “is the apotheosis of admirable versions of pasta, risotto, meat, and fish (via Bernardino Luini, 20). My size wasn’t avail - the chic Italian boutique…Aimed at northern dishes as well as hamburgers and sandwiches, able, but the helpful staff offered to check its other Italians for whom investment in quality fashion is a and has outdoor seating in warm weather. (39- store, at via Cinque Giornate, 11, and leave a given, the shop offers understated tailoring, Italian 031-4140363; www.ristorantecaffeteatro.it ) message at my hotel. My size was indeed found, knitwear and more frivolous pieces.” There are and on my second visit to this calzature I noticed four specialized stores in Como: Man (via Vittorio The Market Place (via Borsiere 21/a; 39- 031- that its selection, for men and women, is quite Emanuel II, 91), Woman (at number 7), Urban (at 270712; www.themarketplace.it ), despite its good. number 4), and Kids (via Indipendenza, 16). English name, is a thoroughly Italian place under the direction of chef Davide Maci, who is utterly Casa del Biscotto (via Bernardino Luini, 52) is a Enosalumeria del Centro (via Indipendenza, 25) devoted to seasonal, local cuisine. I managed to great place to pick up sweets like chocolates, bis - is a small shop stuffed with local culinary special - squeeze in a quick lunch (so un-Italian) just before cotti, torrone, etc., and crema di marroni — sweet - ties, like Vanini Osvaldo olive oil from Lenno. It service was ending (at 2:30 p.m.) and had two ened chestnut cream – which I buy to make Monte may seem surprising, but Lake Como (and Lake courses and dessert for 18€, plus another 5€ for a Bianco, an easy dessert: fill small ramekins with Garda) are the northern-most olive growing areas generous pour of wine. Outstanding. the crema and top with a generous dollop of lightly of Italy. Osvaldo has been producing its delicate oil sweetened whipped cream (in France it’s called since 1850 and won a gold medal in Paris in 1905. 1€ = $1.17 at press time Mont Blanc). Gluten- and sugar-free selections are Lake Como is one of the Gravedona Dongo Como has also been home to a number melted — at the foot of the pre-Alps of distinguished citizens, notably Pliny (also known as the Larian Alps, Lake Como the Elder (who owned a villa on the derived from the Latin name of the lake), his nephew Pliny the Younger lake, Larius, or Lario in Italian), is (who owned two villas), Pope Innocent idyllic, and is what has burnished its Menaggio Cadenabbia XI, Cosima Liszt (daughter of Franz reputation. Varenna List and Countess Marie d’Agoult who Tremezzo became the second wife of Richard Libeskind lived in Como in the Wagner), the Maestri Comacini 1970s as a student, and again in the Bellagio (“Masters of Como,” 1980s with his masons, architects, family, and his stonemasons, sculptors, Architecture and decorators who — Intermundium 5
often anonymously — was held in 1 0 2 spread the Lombard Como in the Blevio y r style throughout Italy summer of Lecco a u m n o c a and Europe during the . 1988. In an r J
k / c i
l
f Como Middle Ages) and interview with 4 , 1 o v i 0 t s
Alessandro Volta, the Magic Lake 2
e r r f
18th-century physicist Como Review, he e Duomo b who invented the stated that, each day. If you look closely, you may m e c electric battery. “Como is one of see that the sculpture is composed of e those Volta’s initials, A.V., and it also D The Life Electric extraordinary resembles the shape of Lake Como (an 5 places in the inverted Y).
It is Volta who is world, which has m o c .
providing another not only an Due to his affection for Como, y l a t logical reason to head to amazing natural Libeskind is donating “The Life i f Como in May 2015, the beauty, but has Electric” to the city, which he describes o m a e
association Amici di incredible culture as “a magnificent city that you can’t r d
The Life Electric .
Como (“Friends of and architecture. not fall in love with…my gift comes w w
Como,” founded 11 From the Duomo directly from my heart.” w years ago by friends with a passion for to Terragni, Como has seen some of the the Provincia di Como and a desire to greatest architecture across millennia, a enrich the city with cultural and civic tradition that can be extended into the projects) will unveil “The Life Electric,” 21st century with a new sense of the Our guest editor for this issue is a contemporary monument designed contemporary.” Barrie Kerper, who traveled to by renowned American architect Lake Como in October to research Daniel Libeskind. The artwork is made The sculpture will be installed at the this issue. Kerper, who also served as of stainless steel and will weigh eleven end of the main pier in Como so that it tons, and besides being a tribute to can be seen from every direction, and the guest editor for our special Volta, it’s meant to represent the the work is also a fountain, with reports on Italy’s best cooking strong connection between the sky and pumps that spill water over the schools, also wrote all of the articles the mountains, two defining elements sculpted sides. In bright sunlight and in this issue. She is the in the Lake Como landscape. at night (when it’s illuminated), the author of The Collected work will resemble a blade of Traveler series of books and one Indeed, the lake’s setting — created electricity, and the light will change of our favorite Italophiles. when a glacier during the Quaternary depending on humidity and other Period (about one million years ago) atmospheric conditions throughout deepest lakes in Europe. Where to Stay on Lake
ago di Como offers everything of which were written expressly for with Vialone Nano rice — a starchy from hotels, camping, B&Bs, her. variety from the Veneto that has a L resorts, agriturismi, rental protected geographical designation homes, hostels, rooms to let, In 1906, the Wild family from Torino and produces creamy risotto — with a shelters and alpine bivouacs — at rebuilt and reanamed the villa (Villa goat blue cheese, boletus mushrooms, every price range. At the highest end, Roccabruna) and were in residence and puffed spelt; cod with a pesto of the lake has four hotels with five stars: until the 1950s, but end-of-season CastaDiva Resort & Spa, the Grand Hotel then the entire cherry tomatoes and Tremezzo, Villa d’Este and the Grand property was pumpkin; and a Hotel Villa Serbelloni in Bellagio (of uninhabited until polenta crumble. these, only the Grand Hotel Tremezzo 2000, when it was was built to be a hotel; all the others bought by a Como The world-class spa 5
1 were once private homes). As most of native who offers a unique 0 2
these hotels have received ample apparently prefers relaxation room y r
a media coverage (including in the pages to remain with chaise lounges u
n CastaDiva Resort a of Dream of Italy ), a review of anonymous. The set on a glass floor J
/ CastaDiva follows as well as property is set on more than six acres that’s suspended above the lake over a 4 1 0
2 recommendations for a few other on the lakefront road between Como 19th-century dock. From here you have
r
e worthy lodgings to consider: and Bellagio. In addition to Villa access to the outdoor pool, which floats b
m Roccabruna, there are eight other on the lake and at night becomes a e c
e villas, two of which are private ( Villa dancing fountain, complete with
D Newest Resort Amina and Villa Norma ), for a total of lighting and music from Italian opera 6 CastaDiva is not quite as well known as 73 rooms. arias. Overall, the CastaDiva offers a the other 5-star lake properties because contemporary departure from the
m it was vacant for more than 50 years Interior designer and stylist Erasmo older, classic hotels on Lake Como. o c .
y (and in 2010 was the first new 5-star Figini oversaw the renovation and l
a CastaDiva Resort t
i hotel to open on the Lake in over a furnishings of CastaDiva, and I think f Via Enrico Caronti, 69 o century), even though it has an equally he achieved a wonderful balance m
a Blevio e r illustrious history — noted opera between establishing a sense of the ww.castadivaresort.com d .
w singer Giuditta Pasta bought what is grand and operatic history of the Pasta (39) 031 32511 w
w now the oldest building of the years and a fresh, contemporary, and Rates: From 350 (low season, garden view) to CastaDiva resort (and its centerpiece) romantic feel to the guest rooms and 10,000€ (for the three-bedroom Villa Norma). in 1827. suites. Figini clearly loves mixing Butler and private chef service available. fabrics, textures and bold colors, and Pasta (to whom 20th-century opera he makes the absolute most of lake In Town soprano Maria Callas was often views whenever there’s an compared) bought the property with opportunity. Hotel Barchetta Excelsior occupies the the first money she earned as an opera best location in the town of Como, singer and named it Villa Roda. At the CastaDiva’s L’Orangerie restaurant is directly on Piazza Cavour with an time, the property consisted of the under the direction of Chef Alessio unobstructed view of the lake. main villa and two guest houses, and Mecozzi, who brings a variety of Everything in the historic center of the sculptor Alessandro Puttinati (1801- experiences (working for Michelin-star town — and just outside of town — is 1872) reproduced the colonnade of La chef Antonello Colonna, at a Relais & within walking distance, and even with Scala on the main villa. Pasta Chateaux hotel, and cooking on a a minimal amount of luggage in tow performed the major soprano aria — luxury yacht) from a variety of the Nord Lago train station is an easy the Casta Diva — in Bellini’s “Norma,” locations (Saint Tropez, New York, eight to ten-minute walk. Besides its as well as the role of Amina in Bellini’s Tuscany, Rome, the Caribbean) to location, the hotel’s best feature is its “La Sonnambula” and the lead role in create vibrant, seasonal Italian dishes. outdoor terrace (closed in winter) that Gaetano Donizetti’s “Anna Bolena,” all My fall dinner featured a risotto made runs half the length of the front exterior. Mark Twain visited Lake Co
m C S B p R B v s s t b f a r r w p p T T q f d a d t a m 1 T H P ( C w R s s 3 w h a e e o e e u u r w 9 l e i a u i o o w a r l a e e h h a a h i a 9 m a c a a i e c c o e e o s t e a m t i i t l b s d l r t z ) w o i e e e e o e s s h e t h t t o a w c a t
r e d t h v m i s c z u 0 u e e s o o
. o o
i
o o s l e g e o y m s t h - i a 1 h o b 8 h
c e o : i 3 i n n , s
t s B c t
s r r
a o n o n
n
, s t a 0 4 a n e 1 F o u r e
. a e
C u .
e e a a t h t a t m n
a
i u n t e 0 , i
c
e s r o
t t r s f i n
T l s a n 3 r t e e o f a o e n t e d l
t t p l
a l e w
s c
u b m 2 6 o d g e m a d t s
P h t l
M a l t f
d
c l h F
a w u r a l 2 l e 0 ’ ; h n
n
p t y u C i i h
a
e
i e s
i e l b r B 1 n h e 0
n t
1 f l r a o a v c e i d o c
e k o e
i i
t o o m d e i o € y e 3 l n s a i d c h r t s g t t d f
t a n s a e
n s a w e
B 5 h P h i i m
e e h i
t e t
A s w
t s t g w d r t p
C n f o
f €
e h e t l s e
e E
a o e , a n r e r t i t t l
r
l
e n o i l n a r p . c
e h h l a o s
r o e a f x t
f a h P e o t f j o a
i c
o s . v h ’ m
r a u r i c a a
u s i s
v e n a k a s r w c i o a t o i
o L
a i s i e
l e c c F t
l n n p e
a l t
s e s a e t m a
a F n a n y T l C a l h
i
g i
t r u s t
i w c d r P b n H o t n l C o i , k d a e i o o e i i e o u l s h a
t
g o u d
u a m g e n
u l b l
e
r o
l n a p m c e H e l r e l a r a
t i t s . t
u y a o r s e w r p h g o
s
e V o s e t r , s T d z i
a ,
t t i i l t
r e h d a o t i a V e o z ,
a i c h n h o t i
, I r r e t l
o n
y
c a t
C o V e o
C m s e w a w
h h o g
, d t l P i s
a o
t i t o o h t h l i m a r n a h s a
v y
a l g m l a e r n i e
o . o
k d t ) ’ o n s
r h o p t e i r , e
u
o C t
a s h
B
b i e e o
n l r a m a o o h u , n v , y l o
a u
l
m n m l , s i e a a n 1 s a
o e
s r r o a e i a d s v
, w l o o t c l ( i s r l d l n s t r
a
e h s
t
e , w
t e i
i H i
b o n l h c e o n o
o a y t
w h e f
t t l a e i a g k l
h . s B a r c h u e R p T s A r r i b C t b r a s f U T P L p C l i ( w a R i B o R s s t 3 t i t n m e e e e e e e t e u a n r a f e g e o w a s r a a h e e o 9 o n y n u a a a
n s a o e v
l e m t n
a a d r t h g t ) s w E a p e e s s s m C l u t t g l s a
g p i h t e c u u t i u u c 0 a i a x s o o . o e
t o o t r o m s t a p ’ k h t r u v l e e c e : e 3 y n n u t l , t t s o a
e r h h a
s a a n u
e L a a e r i i
1 F e n i .
s R
e
s w
H r l s V t f f e l
e a l
m ( g
t a
a r s t r o s t s
t s u u e a a
s 2 d t e o o t o r w
o a a c i t h e
M b a i h h i o i G i d a 3 n n 6 m e l s l o r u e l o , t v
n c
t r r a ,
l
e l 3
v 0 e
i e t P
h d
t
d a a y
s a d
L a T i e c t f a l i n 9 i t 0
P
1 t o a c r
r t
r r n n n
u B r h r n
r ’ 1 c e € t ( 4 t
m d i d h p r s o o l A a e i e e a o t u
d h
n
d n a i 5 i n p e M
h a ’ s m s s e l n r n ) e m p f € . n r E n o e n
d
t o i
k e t i
a l o a s t t l i e t c
q i c c s r e i n r r i
s f u y a
r h e s
s
e , t h s n o
B q a
h e o e u n a
t p a u
,
r r
f n e s 1 e r H e t
e
d - d i u o a n n
e
r c i
a
n i a 6 h
n
s s a
s o t l t r c o o a P f s h
d e e h d n u
p t t h
z i e
g
i n s t C t i m a a , t
C
t i c
a t l o i
d
t n
p e
l o p i 2 u d h e y a l e , w l r b o w t l o v a t e
y
u h e a 0 f
t r
s o t D t d ( r e r p d e t e - e d a l c s s w M d
e a h h
“ e h f e a e o
e e c e 1 h e d t s
l t c s t n i c r o o t a i
i i h
g
d d e h l s s n l
e e 4 t e r a t i
r i h o r o k n g g g c a h w i l c c i c B
s t t
a a t e
i i
e
n
e n
l
r p
a s e
k k a a i r c P A e i r P n l o a
t k C a r a a h e c n n n o
l o c i o g h e o k
r u u
e s , ) o f a n
s g a i t t i r n b w n o
( h a e , t g o o l g e s n t u . t e v r h s i r a a
y r r c
s l u l
s
e c n o t t o f
s s a t t e a
) m v a
a a k t e p h n p e m
r i
, h r y o r h s r .
t
o a r b n a m e
c t c c n n o
a
a w c , o d e d e
. u a w h d B p ’ e o ” a
e s e e n
o o a
e e n t s t t v a t c o M o
o
m e e n
f i
m t o e
o t
i m v n t T D h a i m c i n h e o i y m
i p a s o f h a r n s t s r t o
e n e w t i e o m . d n a , h i h a r l r .
k b e e c o n e c
, n s
r i a d
n s i a r
.
h e
i z r l e e a
v r s
n e t i s t l
s u n a
o t , T a t a i r h d n
o
e
r a
a e n t ’ w h r s a d d 2 c n ) h e s h s
t e i , g t i e 0 g e e
a e e n a h f
i b U h U S t O o ( g f a p l p m a b b e t t w t s o T f s r V 3 U w T R S s e 1 h e h h n o e e e u e 9 a r l i u t r f e l o r g w a i r r e a
v g g m n r e i o . n
k s r f o o e r e r a i o i c t o o g t g t
n t 0
t t w r e e g e g g l t e o e u e e D w M l m
n t h a i i d u h u 3 d d s g a a f s . o y o u r n u s ) e c i i i t l u t a n u 1 d
t :
n e a a a n e s c s n e u u t e b
h s e
p m s h t 8 g a i r n
g R T
t t
i n . m r e l
c a s d 9 t a e
d e
d a s c c t
a t c
n e e
w ; a T n u g
e . h E t a h 4 3 h
e
s r n l u e e t e - , l a S
s r s s t i t
i a
n 9
a e l T s t r T 6 n a o e A n a
v r s a c s h o t
T l
c c a
, y a L g j u 3 . — n S n d
o v i v a 0
a e l h u o r u t
h a e g o n r o i f ’ e r y o ) 5 a a e T g
A w r e
-
u d l a l e h e r r
n e e t s t
d 2 T v r t n d
l
h n d 6 l . a v t
f a f , h t n y
a a t v n e
a h u i e y
r
t h o d .
i f i u i , l a i R
n b o l n e a e n a h ’ n t a
t e n e e
o u s
e y r s e n n i m d t n u r z h r g g i u e u e n s
e w a i e r i n
r d n
n
m
u , t g o t m o e
p l n e l r r o r
o o 1 o h d a a
s h w a n o 1 1 y
,
r e e i r u z
t t
t 0 b r l u t v O 7 t i z b 0
3 c a v e d e a a p w e l i
a i s s e o h g o S e a
i e a e s 0 u d e e n n r a e s i w
n
i m n
u l w t u h p s e e l
h w l a a
n
p r
t t e r a l a d t d L l
d a a i
t r
o
r t t n g e i
e
o i o
d t a ’ i a
y o m e . i u A o t
s . w a a v s
i
l
r i s r n e L
3 r n a t r e n n S r e i
f
n s r o f i r a t t a t i n g e 0 i r
u ,
e n a
a s o n m y
o
o a t h n
t i b o t
i 0 n a t p a e
a ,
u y s h m d n t i
t r l , r h
h f m € y s m a
f
o
o t n s
d
n
o a i a , r e k i s a y p
e a a a s e n l a
a z
n ( c
o n i m
d i c c
a o a n h e f n s r i i t
w
z i l n I t i g i a o o n
m b o h
d r t f n
n r t l p w , t z d a o t t t r a t
w -
i
e a i a f b e a n
s o u h o d a
S —
c n d c a n t w
r
d t l o n u h s y l ; i S w y
s C i e r t o l y e h
e g e t v e t r n . i t
w
r a c
n o
r . b t s c e , i c h o
t
t e o w i e i a h J
w
n
R y t k r r h
e o s u l T
a t y o a m r e
s f l o r o e r e e e d h
s a w l a i p o
n l
a s s
e o o f s
s t d i o , n i t s e t o
e l r
y s
n
h d n t f h
w . b t i r m a o a i a p
g a
u a e n e b u n — f m t s h f h d r t e u d i f . a y ,
l t e t t ,
www.dreamofitaly.com 7 December 2014 / January 2015
m
continued from page 3 o Other villages c . r k c i l f
, 1 1 0 9 s i v a r Francesco Melzi d’Eril, vice president of which I was told t the Italian Republic under Napoleon. translates as The villa was purposefully built to be something like rather plain, to accentuate the beautiful House of Crazy scenery around it, but the gardens are People. The chef- Gravedona magnificent and open between March owner, Pierangelo wonderful and odd
to October. Gurini, and his m animated nativity scene. o c . r
(www.giardinidivillamelzi.it ; book in wife, Rita k This was created by c i l f
,
advance) Siegenthaler, o Giacomo Brambilla in 2009, l l i r d
don’t seem crazy a and after he died in 2010, f Perhaps the top thing to do in Bellagio to me, and Gravedona the town council put it on is to walk to the Punta Spartivento (“the neither does their food, unless it’s permanent display in the church of the point where the wind divides”), at the described as crazy good. Everything is Madonna della Soledad in Piazza Mazzini. 5
1 very end of the promontory, where the housemade, as it has been for 18 years, This is no ordinary nativity scene, and 0 2
lake splits into three branches, where and the menu features a number of local must be seen to be believed — it fills y r
a you are rewarded with a spectacular cheeses, lake fish, tagliatelle, tortelli and the entire church, with 200 different u n
a view of the Lake that cannot be had at meat from Azienda Agricola Corrado settings (from alpine pastures to the J
/ any other point. Pradella, a noted purveyor in the hills North African desert) and 1,300 4 1 0
2 behind the town. characters, half of which are moving
r
e figures. b
m Gravedona Dessert was miascia, a Lake Como e c
e Gravedona — or more properly, specialty that is also known as It was in Gravedona that I was given a D Gravedona ed Uniti, the newly-formed “leftovers cake” and can truly be gift, Terra del Lago di Como, which is 8 town in 2011 that joins the three described as rustic: stale bread is simply a small glass jar filled with soil municipalities of Consiglio di Rumo, soaked in milk and baked with sugar, wrapped in a piece of Como silk. There
m Germasino and Gravedona — is a special butter, whatever fruit is in season, is a seed in the soil, and I’m supposed o c .
y place on upper Lake Como. Somehow raisins, egg, nuts and chocolate if you to keep the soil moist so the seed will l a t
i the sky seems bigger here, and the have it. sprout. I’m doing my best, but even if f o town feels quieter, calmer, and older. the seed never sprouts, it’s still one of m a e
r Italian writer Davide Bertolotti noted in Gravedona is also home to G. the nicest souvenirs I have and it will d .
w 1825 that “beautiful Gravedona Gramatica honey ( miele ), which is a always remind me of Gravedona. w
w dominates all other lands of Lario, ” and superior brand, and the inexplicably indeed its setting is superb.
The historic town center features a lot of stone buildings and narrow lanes Dongo: End of World War II Museum (known as strecc in local dialect) and On the 27th of April, 1945, Mussolini and some of history through virtual and interactive displays. along the waterfront is a cycling and his Fascist ministers were fleeing Milan and head - The “End of the War Project” is especially well pedestrian path with sweeping views. ing towards Valtellina, Switzerland. They were done, with four themed panels outlining the Among Gravedona’s architectural stopped by partisans on the road between Musso events between September 8, 1943 and April 28, treasures are the 12th-century Santa and Dongo (on the northwest side Lake Como) and 1945. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 1 Maria del Tiglio Baptistery (built with taken to Palazzo Manzi, the Town Hall of Dongo. p.m. and 3 to 6 p.m. and admission is 5€. (Piazza Paracchini, 6; 39-0344-81333; stone from Musso, as was the cathedral The minsters were shot on the lakeside prome - www.museofineguerradongo.it ) in Como), Santa Maria delle Grazie and nade, while Mussolini and Clara Petacci were taken the Church of Saints Gusmeo and Matteo, to Giulino di Mezzegra and executed the next day. and all are well maintained and beautiful. Until 1995, the Palazzo Manzi was the Como Resistance Museum but today it’s home to the One of the most memorable meals of Museo Fine Guerra, a very moving and innova - my life was at Ristorante Cà De Matt, tive museum that relates this chapter of Italian The lake is shaped like the letter Y.