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Jenny Binks Boulders Jenny Binks Boulders

Climbs - 20 Altitude 370m Faces South

Other condition info: A fine, quite high wall of perfect grit that is very Slipstones like and faces south in a fine position overlooking the valley and moors up the valley past Brown Beck Crag. There is also a collection of good boulders. Landings are flat but a couple of mats are recommended as some problems are high. Check for shooting restrictions before a visit.

NOTE – This valley is home to adders. You are unlikely to see one but take care when walking in early in the day when they might be found sunning themselves on the path.

Parking and approach info: Park as for Slipstones and follow the track to the gate. The narrow moorland path that is used to access Brown Beck Crag branches off the main path here. Follow it up the valley, passing Brown Beck and keep going past the obvious prow of Hanging Stones. Once the crag/boulders come into view choose a line up to another path that contours below Hanging Stones and across to the lower boulders (passing some smaller boulders on the way). An easy hour’s walk.

Documented by Alex Thompson and Paul Clarke Apl 2017. No signs of earlier exploration but??

Unknown Stones Jenny Binks Boulders

Small Wall The obvious wall at the moor edge

1/ Didactylos 3 7/ 6b *** The wrinkly wall left of two The arête with increasing cracks. difficulty.... Class.

2/ Om 3 * 8/ A Moment of Doubt 6a ** The two cracks. The groove, stepping up with .....

3/ Brutha 3+ 9/ The Adder 5 ** Just right of the right-hand crack. The snaking flake.

4/ The Eighth Prophet 4+ 10/ Vorbis 5+ Just right passing a small crimp. The arête on its left side.

5/ A Hat Full of Sky 6b ** Wall direct to obvious V shaped A Moment of Doubt nick. Tecky fun.

6 The Question 6c+/7a * An attempt at a direct. Climb to obvious bulbous hold short of the top where a reach left and footwork sometimes allows the top to be reached - very close to Hatfull. Is the direct a goer?

Unknown Stones Jenny Binks Boulders

The Millstone Wedge 4/ Eidetic Memory 5 ** The obvious wedge shaped block Arête on its left side. Lovely. down to the right (facing in).

Spotted the millstones?

1/ Good Omens 6b * 5/ Roll Millstone, Roll 2 ** Use undercuts to reach small The right arête/slab/ramp. crimps just below the top 6/ Raising Steam 6a* 2/ Project – Theatre of Cruelty ? SDS L arête. Follow the seam just The centre of the wall. below top and round right.

3/ Twoflower 6a * Just left of first arête with a tricky The slab to the right can be rockover. climbed almost anywhere at fun 2.

3a/ Project – Unseen Academicals ? Little Prow Same line but with a big throw from the first undercuts.

Little Prow 4+ * SDS. Small prow down to left. Eidetic Memory

Unknown Stones Jenny Binks Boulders

Scoop-n-Rib Below is a boulder with a short Just to the left are a couple of overhanging east side. This is small but good problems. Coffin Henry.

1/Battle Bread 5+ SDS. A throw from the shelf gains the top

2/ A Powerful Connection With The Chalk 6c * SDS A tiny side-pull crimp and broken flake are used to gain the better holds.

3/ Tiffany Aching 6a * 1/ Roundworld 6a * SDS. Flakes to the top and over. SDS. The rib on small holds.

To the right a shelf gets in the ay 2/ Scorcery 5+ * of worthy problems – make of it SDS. The scoop. what you will.

4/ Trousers of Time 3 * Nice steep rib. “Stories of imagination tend to upset those 5/ Soul Cake Day 3* Up, step right and follow the without one” Terry pods. Pratchett

Unknown Stones Jenny Binks Boulders

6/ Counting Pines 3 Step right and up the crack 4/ Rincewind 5+ ** feature. SDS. Great little rib.

The Patrician This is the large boulder below Coffin Henry with a heather top and featured valley face. Harder than it looks!

“The entire universe has been neatly divided into things to Rincewind (a) mate with, (b) eat, (c) run away from, and (d) 5, 5+ * rocks” SDS Good and tricky.

1/ Time is a Drug 3+ * 6/ The Colour of Magic 5 * The rib – SDS available. SDS. Tricky top.

2/ Too Much Kills You 6a * 7/ The City Watch 4 * SDS. A tight eliminate. SDS Easier line.

3/ Nac Mac Feegles 5 * 8/ Philosophical Questions 5 * SDS the rib. SDS. Pull and slap.

The crack provides further 9/ 6b+ * opportunities to understand that SDS. Sidepull, edge, jam, grunt. “inside every sane person is a madman struggling to get out”. 10/ 6b* SDS. Traverse the breaks.

Unknown Stones