BRYANT PARK ’TIL 2010/4 JEWELRY’S COUNTERFEIT PLAGUE/40 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • September 10, 2007 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear

Ralph’s Fashion Moment In a word, magnifi cent. Ralph Lauren celebrated his 40th anniversary in grand style with a show and fete Saturday evening at Central Park’s Conservatory Garden. He presented a stellar lineup of his signature looks, including these lovely garden gowns. For more on the season, see pages 8 to 19. PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY

IMAGES: ELLE OCTOBER 2007 4 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM Fashion Week to Stay in Tents for 2 Years By Marc Karimzadeh Bryant Park. This season, IMG Fashion had to shrink its foot- WWDMONDAY NEW YORK — The tents can call Bryant Park their print and give up one site to reduce the impact Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear home for two more years. on the park. Mallis added that the new contract IMG Fashion, which owns Mercedes-Benz allows to potentially increase the footprint again FASHION Fashion Week, signed a contract on Friday to keep and to add another venue if necessary. She added Ralph Lauren’s party and show were the big weekend news; among other the event in Bryant Park through February 2010. she will continue looking for solutions beyond collections were Vera Wang, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler and Rodarte. The deal was negotiated over the past six months the two-year extension. “I know there has been 8 with Mayor Michael Bloomberg, the New York speculation about the Port Authority roof, which City Department of Parks and Recreation and the we looked at a couple of times,” she said. “There GENERAL Bryant Park Corp. According to Fern Mallis, IMG are some issues we are not sure can be overcome, Stephen L. Ruzow will step down as president of Kellwood Co.’s Calvin Fashion’s senior vice president, this is the longest which has to do with the building itself, the weight 4 Klein women’s sportswear division, effective Sept. 21. contract IMG has signed with Bryant Park. It usu- loads for the roof…and the access to the roof. ally had year-to-year deals. There are currently three small passenger eleva- EYE: The marathon of fashion week parties only hit the halfway mark “It gives us all a little bit of breathing time to tors that take six people.” 6 over the weekend, but it still left many feeling footsore and exhausted. continue to look at other alternatives and spaces, Whether the deal with the park could be extend- Curved walls, mirrored counters and backlit glass walls contribute to the and to do it with the knowledge and understand- ed beyond two years remains unclear. Mallis said 36 futuristic mood of the fi rst Just Cavalli boutique in New York. ing that we don’t have to keep going back to the she preferred not to project too far in the future. drawing board each season to rehash this out,” “If we are in earnest looking for spaces and Knockoffs have been a thorn in the side of apparel and accessories Mallis said. “This enables us to do it in an orderly something materializes that won’t be built by 40 fi rms for decades, but now the problem has extended into fi ne jewelry. and effi cient manner.” 2010, we hope that the city and the park will con- In the 16 years the event has taken place at tinue to work with us in good faith,” she said. “But Classifi ed Advertisements...... 54-55 Bryant Park, it has grown signifi cantly, and the right now, we don’t want to worry what’s going to To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Bryant Park Corp. has made no secret it wants the happen in 2010. A lot of things can change in two event to move from the park. It took the interven- years in this city and this industry. It’s an eternity [email protected], using the individual’s name. tion of Bloomberg last October to keep the tents in in fashion terms.” WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 194, NO. 53. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Ruzow to Exit Kellwood Post Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human By Whitney Beckett “This was always the plan, according to industry sources. Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail when they asked me two years “We appreciate Steve’s contri- Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return tephen L. Ruzow will step ago to go to Calvin and fi x it — butions to our women’s businesses undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Sdown as president of Kellwood we knew it wouldn’t be forever,” over the past six years,” Robert C. 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Co.’s Calvin Klein women’s sports- Ruzow said. “We have been per- Skinner Jr., Kellwood’s chairman, INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit wear division, effective Sept. 21. forming at retail very much in president and chief executive of- www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production The move follows Kellwood’s line with our peers; the whole fi cer, said in a statement. “This correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, announcement Thursday about better segment is struggling.” was a groundbreaking period for please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other the restructuring of its women’s After joining Kellwood in the company as we added several Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. division and the exit of Paul October 2001 as president of well-known national women’s If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Robb, chief executive officer Kellwood Womenswear, Ruzow brands to our portfolio. Steve was 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, of Kellwood’s Lifestyle Design was appointed corporate vice instrumental in bringing those re- OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED Group, both of which raised president in March 2003 and lationships to Kellwood. MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR speculation Ruzow was under promoted to executive vice pres- “Two years ago, we asked Steve CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR pressure in his position. ident the following December, in to take the reins at our Calvin DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY Ruzow said it was his deci- addition to his post as president Klein division in order to refocus A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. sion to depart, and that he was of Kellwood Womenswear. In the women’s better sportswear, pleased with where Kellwood’s September 2004, he was moved and to develop and launch the ck MONDAY: Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week con- better and bridge Calvin Klein to the Calvin Klein division, Calvin Klein women’s bridge busi- tinues (through Wednesday). women’s sportswear lines were. which had trouble as a licensee, ness, which will be in stores for G-III Apparel Group reports second-quarter sales spring 2008,” Skinner continued. and earnings. “Now that better sportswear is re- positioned with a much stronger TUESDAY: Anteprima, Milan (through Wednesday). product presentation and bridge Ready to Show and Intertex Milano, Milan (through is ready to launch, Steve has ex- Thursday). Shapewear pressed an interest in retiring Milano Unica, Milan (through Friday). from Kellwood.” The U.S. Commerce Department releases the August A Global Resource with... Before joining Kellwood, foreign trade report. • Niche Market • Trend Forward Designs • Quick Response • In Stock Ruzow served as president at Benetton Group reports second-quarter sales and Always a Leader in Innovative Design and Manufacturing! The Leiber Group (formerly earnings. Pegasus Apparel Group) from Call...(800) 982-1113 March 2000 to May 2001. Ruzow FRIDAY: Surf Expo, Orlando, Fla. (through Sunday). or Visit our Website www.ragoshapewear.com was instrumental in Pegasus’ The Commerce Department releases the September U.S. SHOWROOMS: goal of forming an American lux- retail sales report. 183 Madison Avenue, NYC • Atlanta • Chicago • Dallas • Los Angeles • Miami INTERNATIONAL OFFICES AND AGENTS: ury conglomerate, but the fi rm Capetown • Frankfurt • Istanbul • London • Paris • Seoul • Tokyo endured numerous stumbles. SATURDAY: Designers & Agents, New York (through Before Pegasus, he spent a Sept. 17). year overseeing Calvin Klein Vicenza Oro Autumn, Vicenza, Italy (through Sept. 19). underwear and accessories at London Fashion Week (through Sept. 20). Warnaco, where he had worked COMING THIS WEEK as president and ceo of its ac- SUNDAY: The Train, Platform 2, Pacific Designer tivewear and women’s apparel Collection, Atelier Designers Collections and Nouveau divisions in the early Eighties. Collective, New York (through Sept. 18). Citi Systems Inc. - Experts in the Fashion Industry! From March through May 1998, If you feel that your Apparel Business is not moving in the right direc- he was ceo of Kate Spade, after tion, let CITI SYSTEMS provide a solution to get you there.We look at serving as president and chief your business Top Down. We provide full solutions for businesses in Wholesale and Retail. operating offi cer of Donna Karan Our Expertise include: International from 1989 to 1997. “I had been concerned with In Brief • Enterprise Resource Programs - Comparison and Implementation • Retail Store - Analysis, POS Software and store planning my background being only de- • International Business - Consulting and implementing proper strat- ● egies signer,” Ruzow said. “What L’OREAL STRIKES BACK: L’Oréal was said to have taken • Finance - System Analysis, Multi-Currency, Reporting, Factoring, etc. I loved about Kellwood is I legal action against eBay in five European countries in August • Production - Style & Inventory Management, Purchase Orders, etc. • Warehouse - Multi Warehouse, Cost Management, EDI, integration learned a whole new segment over the online auction site’s alleged sale of counterfeit fra- with Fulfillment center • Sales Order Entry & Allocations of the market. Now I have done grance bottles. The French beauty giant launched lawsuits in • Licensing Strategies everything from Donna Karan Belgium, France, Germany, Spain and the U.K., according to CITI SYSTEMS can help BRIDGE THE GAP and get your return on in- Collection to Sag Harbor.” press reports. While a L’Oréal spokesman did not comment spe- vestment back on track. Our goal is to help you become profitable or overall improve your bottom $$. Ruzow said he would start cifi cally on the eBay case, he said, “L’Oréal has been facing an looking for his next post im- increasing volume of illicit trade in fake fragrances and fake CITI SYSTEMS INC. has had major success with Marc Jacobs, Diane von Furstenberg, Girbaud and many others. Whether you are a mediately after he fi nished the cosmetics products on some online auction sites. These sites multinational conglomerate or small brand, CITI SYSTEMS can help. spring market. also feature luxury products for sale in signifi cant quantities by For a free business process review Please call 1-800-804-4837 or email us at [email protected] “I’m not retiring forever unauthorized dealers, including products without outer pack- — I’m retiring from Kellwood,” aging or leafl ets containing health and safety information, such said Ruzow. “The most exciting as ingredients lists and precautionary warnings. Consequently, area right now is the contempo- L’Oréal has decided to take legal action to protect the consum- rary area, and I love the design- ers, preserve the quality of its selective luxury distribution net- er part of the business.” work and defend the reputation of its trademarks.” Offi cials at A search is under way for his eBay couldn’t be reached for comment. successor at Kellwood. WWW.DIESEL-FRAGRANCES.COM 6 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM

Diane Kruger The Long Run in Missoni. The marathon of fashion week parties only hit the halfway mark over the weekend, but it still left many feeling footsore and exhausted. Thursday night kicked off with a dinner feting Rachel Zoe’s fi rst tome, “Style: A to Zoe,” at Socialista. The celebrity stylist introduced her proud parents to friends including her hostess Margherita Missoni, Angela Lindvall, Stavros Niarchos, Tatiana Santo Domingo, Pierre Casiraghi, Liya Kebede, Brian Atwood and Diane Kruger, fresh off the plane from Venice. The dinner capped off a busy day for Demi Moore, who has been keeping a schedule as jam-packed as any editor with shows, lunches and parties. “I’m just glad there’s something for me to do,” said Moore, whose husband, Ashton Kutcher, is shooting a fi lm in the city. “Though I do wish I could just slip in and watch, unnoticed.” Meanwhile, the crew at Purple magazine was hosting a dinner at Freeman’s, with Ellen von Unwerth, Leelee Sobieski, Chiara Clemente and co-hosts Eric Villency and Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, who said she won’t be at the shows. Mary J. Blige and “I just started my new job” at Baron & Baron Inc., she Roberto Cavalli at the said. “I want them to think I take it seriously.” Just Cavalli store. After dinner, most guests headed uptown to Alexander Wang’s after party in a Chelsea warehouse space, where Mischa Barton, clad in a long silver gown, stopped by to say hello after Jennifer Lopez in presenting at Fashion Rocks. Roberto Cavalli Rachel Meanwhile, the rest of the CBS special’s stars headed to the at Fashion Rocks. Zoe in Rainbow Room for the offi cial after party, including Barton’s friend vintage Nicole Richie. Usher held court in a corner VIP section, receiving well-wishers congratulating him on Missoni. his recent wedding to Tameka Foster, while Mary J. Blige raved about her “Entourage” cameo with the evening’s host, Jeremy Piven: “That’s my man,” she said. “I think I made a real friend.” The next night was no less busy: Max Azria hosted a relatively civilized dinner at Buddakan, while up on Fifth Avenue, a police entourage and barricade worthy of a presidential visit surrounded the new Just Cavalli store as ravenous fans screamed for celebs like Jennifer Lopez, Mena Suvari, Joshua Jackson, Carol Alt and Blige. Once inside, the heat and crowds were so overwhelming that most, including Ashlee Simpson, did a quick walk-through before heading to the Waverly Inn dinner afterwards. But things were no more calm there. “Please, please let me have a look at her fi rst,” begged Roberto Cavalli to photographers as they made a beeline for Moore, braving the fl ashbulbs once again. Fledgling designer Jessica Simpson was more understanding of the store opening’s pressure cooker atmosphere. “It was chaos, which it deserved,” she offered. “Hopefully I can have the same thing one day. That’s what we all hope for as designers.” The Prada store was equally packed when The Hours took over for a concert underneath a chandelier-sized version of Damien Hirst’s diamond- encrusted skull. Steven Tyler, Gina Gershon, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Zoe Kravitz and Vincent Gallo all happily squeezed onto the wooden stairs, and stuck around long afterward. On Saturday evening, while many headed to Ralph Lauren’s 40th anniversary bash in Central Park, Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy celebrated their spring collection with a party hosted by Miranda July at the new Salon 94 Freemans gallery. Kate said she’s headed to Venice, Florence and Milan for a well-deserved vacation. Meanwhile, rock royalty headed to 401 Projects and American Photo’s “Visions of Rock” exhibit, where sometime photographers Lou Reed, Michael Ashlee Simpson Stipe and Bryan Adams were showing their work. in Hervé Léger at LL Cool J stopped by after attending the Y-3 Fashion Rocks. show. But despite his many fashion week appearances, the rapper protested, “I am Vanessa not a fashionista. As a matter of fact, the STEVE EICHNER N MAZUR/WIREIMAGE; ALL OTHERS BY Traina in other day someone asked me what an vintage epaulet was and I had no idea. Someone Alaïa with asked me what a haberdashery was and Bryan her sister I also had no idea.” Victoria, Adams in vintage Vivienne Westwood, at Alexander Wang.

Mary-Kate Olsen in Kova + T.

Zoe Kravitz in Ellen von a Prada Lisa Unwerth and headband Airan in Mischa Tara Subkoff and a Rodarte at Barton in in Yves Saint vintage Salon 94 Versace. Laurent. dress. Freemans. CAVALLI AND ADAMS PHOTOS BY JIMI CELESTE; WANG AND RODARTE BY KRISTEN SOMODY; SIMPSON BY JAMES DEVANEY/WIREIMAGE; LOPEZ BY KEVI BY LOPEZ JAMES DEVANEY/WIREIMAGE; SIMPSON BY KRISTEN SOMODY; BY AND RODARTE JIMI CELESTE; WANG AND ADAMS PHOTOS BY CAVALLI WWW.DIESEL-FRAGRANCES.COM 8 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 The New Yorkers WHO HASN’T MUSED ON WHAT IT MIGHT BE LIKE TO STEP FOR A MOMENT into that renowned, rareified world of Ralph Lauren’s creation, the one depicted in those glorious Bruce Weber photographs? Nearly 500 people got the chance on Saturday night when Lauren invited them to the Conservatory Garden, a jewel of a spot way up on 105th and Fifth Avenue in Central Park — a world away from typical fashion crowd scenes. Arriving guests walked past a pair of urns spilling over with vibrant pink hydrangeas that fl anked the Vanderbilt Gate, the ironwork masterpiece that in its previous life kept the railroad magnate sequestered safely from hoi polloi curiosity while in his 58th Street manse. At Lauren’s fete, no drama getting through, each guest treated like a movie star, a sip of Champagne and then into a grand white tent appointed simply in sleek black and white (albeit with a colorfully horsey Edwardian runway backdrop), where the people-watching was as delightful as the A.C. (Hey, everybody, take a lesson. This isn’t Europe.) The front row shone with star wattage, but not of the typical I’ll-show-for-a-free-dress actress ilk. Rather, Lauren’s A-list weighed heavily toward New Yorkers important in various fi elds, starting with Mayor Michael Bloomberg and his girlfriend Diana Taylor, Police Commissioner Ray Kelly, Diane Sawyer, Barbara Walters, Charlie Rose, Martha Stewart, Dustin Hoffman and his wife, Lisa, Stephen Schwarzman, Robert De Niro, Sarah Jessica Parker and Matthew Broderick, not to mention the ultrasupportive competition — Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera, Vera Wang and Diane von Furstenberg. In response to the invitation’s request for black tie, many women turned up, not surprisingly, in black. But there was also a big showing of white with a shot of silver here or there in the crowd, which played uncannily to one of the evening’s leitmotifs — the Ascot scene from “My Fair Lady,” the soundtrack of which played in the background. And why not? That Anglo gentility has always featured prominently in Lauren’s work, and he and Eliza Doolittle herself, Audrey Hepburn, became friends back when he designed her clothes for a PBS series on gardens. (The show-opening song, however — “Boring” by The Pierces — was atypical Ralph, with NEW lyrics that delighted the audience: “Galliano, Donatella, Dolce & Gabbana — boring.”) The party celebrated Lauren’s 40th anniversary in the fashion business, and his remarkable ride from a drawer full of ties at the YORK Beau Brummel showroom to the clout implicit in taking over six acres of Central Park for a night. It also gave ample credence to Lauren’s oft- spring ’08 stated professional mantra: “I do what I do.” At various times object of both laudation and lampoon in this most mercurial of industries, Lauren has ultimately thrived without compromise. That focus led him to note last week: “This is also a working event. I’m doing a collection. It’s not a separate party.” Invariably when a designer links two such occasions he risks having the fete trump the show. But here, Lauren turned out a fabulous collection, one that strutted his signatures left, right and center without turning archival; these clothes were all about next spring. He opened with an au courant ode to Audrey — a curvy, white gown trimmed in ribbons and worn under a big hat. Out next: a dapper his-for-her look setting up a ladies-gents counterpoint that continued throughout. Impressionistic garden party gowns offered a waft of the Thirties, while slick and yellow sportswear revved up the mood. And Lauren celebrated the horsey life not only with paint-splashed jodhpurs but with vibrant silk prints that worked as well for a saucy cocktail dress as for a sleek jockey jacket. He fi nished with a stunner: a silver chain-beaded gown. After the show, Lauren took a long bow, stopping to accept congratulations along the way. He was then joined by his wife, Ricky, and, as they reached the models’ exit, the backdrop opened to reveal the spectacular outdoor party setting. Then, the crowd followed the couple into the elegant garden, made only more so by hundreds of hurricane lamps, 11 chandeliers, custom Ralph Lauren linens and napkins and 10 more of those 400-pound urns fi lled with truckloads of pink hydrangeas. “Is this what it’s like every year?” asked Karan. “Because if so, I’m never showing again. I’m canceling my show, I’ve already made the call.” Indeed, no expense was spared — 700 bottles of Champagne were on hand for the crowd, which included John Mellencamp and Elaine Irwin, Clarissa and Edgar Bronfman, Bruce Weber, Robert Kennedy Jr. and his wife, Mary, and the Lauren children. Of course, Stewart stopped one waiter proffering caviar to ask, “Who did the catering?” FYI, it was Olivier Cheng. Bloomberg, admittedly not the world’s most devoted fashion follower, paid tribute to Lauren for his civic contribution to the city. “If you called central casting and said, ‘Find me a great New Yorker,’ they would send Ralph Lauren,’” he said. “When the city needs something, Ralph Lauren is always there.” Perhaps now it’s time for the mayor, who did not dress in a Lauren suit, to return the favor. “I am potentially his worst client,” Bloomberg said with a laugh. “I have some shoes and shirts.” There were plenty of other clotheshorses in attendance to make up for the mayor’s lack. The best thing about Ralph Lauren, said Hoffman, is that “if you’re short, you don’t have to have anything altered. I’m telling you the truth,” he said, tugging at his suit, “this is right off the rack.” Chances are that SJP’s spangly Ralph Lauren frock was not, but the actress still Police enthused about the designer. “[Ralph] personifi es classic design and has created an Commissioner elegant lifestyle for people to be a part of — even if you’re not really a part of it.” Ray Kelly Both Sawyer and Walters praised him for his humility. “He rarely gives interviews, you know. He doesn’t like to talk about himself,” Walters explained. “But he is the American dream.” Police Commissioner Kelly agreed: “His is a classic American story. It’s what this country is all about.” Maybe it was the bubbly combined with the sultry heat — or that interminably Vera long cocktail portion before dinner, the one hiccup of the night — but superlatives Wang did seem called for. Wang, who fi rst met Lauren when she interviewed for a design and job, was not surprised at all by the lavishness of the affair. “Ralph’s life has been so Donna successful,” she said. “He’s like the hedge-fund guy of fashion. He’s like Google.” Karan With Dean Martin crooning over the sound system and the garden fountain streaming high into the air, guests ascended to the terrace, lit with thousands of candles, for a supper of herbed haricots verts, New Zealand lamb and wild strawberry shortcake. “I can’t believe I’m living this life,” Lauren said. Yes, but if this is the manner in which he celebrates 40, how on earth will he top it at 50? “I Barbara Walters think I’ll take a rest fi rst,” he said with a smile. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 9 WWD.COM

Ralph and Ricky Lauren Sarah Jessica Parker, Matthew Broderick, Robert De Niro, and Grace Hightower.

Diane Sawyer The scene at the Conservatory Garden.

Dylan Lauren and John Paul Arrouet Mellencamp and Martha Stewart

Diane von Carolina Dustin and Lisa Hoffman Furstenberg Herrera UEL DUNAND/AFP/GETTY IMAGES

Andrew Lauren and Haley Sampey

Diana Taylor and Mayor Michael Bloomberg

The Lauren elaborate Bush table and setting. David Lauren PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE AND STEVE EICHNER; WALTERS, BLOOMBERG BY DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/WIREIMAGE; DAVID LAUREN AND BUSH BY EMMAN LAUREN AND BUSH BY DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/WIREIMAGE; DAVID BY BLOOMBERG GEORGE CHINSEE AND STEVE EICHNER; WALTERS, PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007

Vera Wang

TheoriesDoing what comes naturally means something a little different for each designer. of For Vera Wang, beachy looks, while, for the sisters of Rodarte, it’s interpreting their signature breathless NEW YORK spring ’08

Vera Wang Rodarte

Vera Wang: A romp through the Roman Republic? dubbed “New Look” in a fanciful riff on a classic. wafting through. Within that framework, he delivered That may have been Vera Wang’s stated inspiration, These made for dramatic stuff — plenty evocative in a feisty feast with enough diversity to thrill the gamut but the collection she showed on Friday was in fact rich-hued, often shiny fabrics, though not all easy to of his well-toned gals, whether they fancy structure another sojourn to the land of artsy chic. It’s a place wear. As for decoration, Wang limited the extras to — a sunshine-and-white doubleface shift, a snazzy Wang has claimed as her own, and where this season carefully placed bullion embroideries and bold stones bullion tunic — or a side-slit day dress with fl ou-la- she found herself at a crossroads. Her challenge: engineered into bibs or collars for graphic oomph. la shades of Lisa Taylor photographed by Helmut to avoid redundancy while staying wearable and For evening, Wang was stellar, her nonglitzy Newton for Vogue back when. Not a dress girl? Sharp au courant. Duh, you say? True, that’s the task of beauties providing welcome antidote to all the safari fare played into one of the week’s developing every designer every season, but one heightened overembroidered illusion out there. Among the trends. Even at the beach, Kors went two ways exponentially when the signature is so specific and stunners: a jewel-neck forest green gown bloused — neither of them trashy: high glam with plunging-V the costume-crossover potential so high. For spring, haphazardly at the hips, because the sensual earth maillots or sweetly girlish with a ruffl ed bikini. Wang responded beautifully, scaling back the obvious goddess survived the fall of Rome — and loves to work Color proved a major motif, with a line list that intricacy (despite highly complicated cuts) and a sexy drape. read like a stroll through Whole Foods, offering ample decoration while retaining the air of wistful mystery, sightings of lemon, guava, apricot and apple. A bit to and countering her gorgeous Romanesque draping Michael Kors: Tennis anyone? How about a day at the the Miami Beach side of chic, you say? Nope, as Kors with bold structure. beach followed by some racy disco doings at Studio kept the combos controlled, working them conversely The latter made for a deft and beautiful balancing 54? In the collection he showed on Sunday, Michael in bold, graphic blocks and a delicate Seurat-inspired act. Never a natty blazer kind of gal, Wang loves Kors had all such activities covered with terrifi c fl oral. It all made for a delightful spring fl ing. languid and here spun sweater and tunic dressing into results. nonchalant elegance highlighted by fl oppy, whisper- Kors’ innate up-with-people/up-with-fashion Rodarte: Kate and Laura Mulleavy have brought thin knits with fl oating chiffon back panels, each one a optimism pulses through everything he does, and for something wonderful and utterly new to American graceful knockout. Often, these played against slouchy spring revealed itself in a terrifi c, lighthearted lineup fashion. Yet everyone knows their most ebullient, pants, shorts or stiff A-line skirts which the designer with a current of the designer’s beloved Seventies romantic confections don’t address the more mundane WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 11 WWD.COM

it’sEvolution a draped romp through Ancient Rome; for Michael Kors, it’s revisiting stylish romance and the Proenza Schouler duo, a military-majorette theme.

Rodarte

Proenza Proenza Schouler Schouler Michael Kors Michael Kors PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE AND ROBERT MITRA GEORGE CHINSEE AND ROBERT PHOTOS BY

wardrobe needs of even the toniest women, and that twin set and pleated skirt. They proved, too, that they big-buttoned structure against almost-frothy, very leggy in the interests of long-term viability, the sisters must can do a no-frou suit, whether ballooning up a Chanel- skirts, was appealing enough, its sophisticated cheeki- extract and develop a commercial element for their ish tweed or New Look-ing it in acid green precision ness punctuated by foot-high feathered band-leader breathtaking point of view. As so often happens these pleats. hats, and the girls looked great. So, too, when the mili- days with promising young designers who skyrocket to As for the duo’s take on tough-chic with racy, tary moment gave way to vaguely folkloric tweeds and prominence early, they now fi nd themselves working exposed-seam pants scrunched at the ankles, if their short, precision-cut evening looks that retained a hint through that issue in full view of an intrigued yet desire to do sportswear is internal, coming from their of the street despite ample gilding and the precision impatient audience. own designing hearts, godspeed. They’re not there placement of a zillion tiny golden feathers. The Rodarte collection the Mulleavys showed yet, but they can’t not try. However, if they’re merely But somehow, the collection felt wanting. The two on Saturday was part of the process, including reacting to external pressure to instantly be all things designers are extremely talented, and their work toughened-up styling marked by neon ponytails and to all credit card-wielding shoppers, that’s a shame. polished-to-perfection, perhaps beyond its years and heavy metal stilettos. Much of it was brilliant, and not Fashion is fi lled with casualties of square pegs forced those of its creators. Sometimes watching a Proenza only the designers’ most obvious attempts at simplifi ed unsuccessfully into round holes. Yes, the Mulleavys Schouler show, one feels that they let their quest for romance, as with the cloudy dream of a dress with a must fi nd their way to commercial common sense. But — and often, their delivery of — perfect trump real pink and blue organza bodice, the pleated gray skirt it must be their way, and not someone else’s. feeling. They seem to aspire to the kind of precision or the cornfl ower blue chemise suspended from thick best exemplifi ed by Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière. X-straps. In other cases, they kept the complications Proenza Schouler: Concept — check. Materials But in his case, studied perfection is typically a means more apparent but the dresses plenty wearable — the — check. Execution — check. In Jack McCollough and to a startling, awe-inspiring end rather than an end pink ballerina, its bustier attached to a fl ower vine Lazaro Hernandez’s fi rst collection since receiving an in itself. In this most recent effort by McCollough and that twisted delicately across the model’s back. But infusion of money via the partial sale of their company Hernandez, the clinical exactness took over, becoming the Mulleavys also showed the ability to go froth-free, to Valentino Fashion Group, the clinical elements that the show’s defi ning element, which is just not enough expanding last season’s knit experiment into a terrifi c, make for a great collection were there in full force. to make for a compelling collection. From so young webby mélange lineup including a witty tennis-anyone The idea, a chic military-majorette motif that played and talented a source, we expect more. 12 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 Equal Opportunity Something for everyone, indeed. From drop-dead lace gowns to sportif stripes, designers are delivering looks for Ladies Who Lunch as well as downtown hipsters. NEW YORK spring ’08

Cynthia Rowley

Liz Claiborne

▲ J.Mendel

J.Mendel: Whatever the weather, Gilles Mendel knows how to keep his furs cool. And for spring, that means making even the most luxurious of them fun, young and light as the proverbial feather. How about a white mink cardigan over a pale gray chiffon Windbreaker and white cotton shorts, or a slate broadtail coat paired with a sequined T and cotton shorts? The designer paid plenty of attention to his ready-to-wear, too, trimming cotton jackets or coats with python or plastic borders, and cutting a great raincoat in white lacquered chiffon. He showed some very pretty silk evening gowns — the most special, a mousseline and Chantilly lace pleated peasant number. While Mendel continues to broaden his scope, he is still best known as a fur designer. And with good reason.

Tracy Reese: With her strong penchant for ladylike wares, Tracy Reese took the audience on a delightful stroll from the Forties through the Seventies. It was pure retro-sportif — without a bit of the kitsch factor that can often weigh down a collection. A standout Lauren Bacall-worthy linen sailor suit was followed by a slew of pretty dresses that spun stylishly through Ports 1961

▲ J.Mendel the decades, whether sequined, swingy or with sweet scallop trims. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 13 WWD.COM

Zero + Maria Cornejo Tracy Reese Behnaz Sarafpour

▼ MaxAzria PHOTOS BY PASHA ANTONOV, JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT CENTENO, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY

Zero + Maria Cornejo: Maria Cornejo has become a fashion was all pretty and romantic, though some of those shimmering dresses darling with her Zero + Maria Cornejo collections, had a hint of Miu Miu past. probably because she has that special knack for making the simplest silhouettes fun and interesting, and her more Behnaz Sarafpour: After last season’s detour into dark, Gothic territory, complicated designs, effortless. The result: clothes that Behnaz Sarafpour took a fresh and natural approach to spring, literally. look as terrific as they are easy to wear. In her softened She defied the styleless-eco-fashion stigma with her first five looks architectural spring mode, the designer focused on boldly printed that included pieces from her debut capsule organic collection. They box-shaped dresses; she also went for volume and draping above the featured all-natural fabrics embellished with turquoise and malachite waist in tops over skinny skirts or slim-skirted dresses. Cornejo embroideries, and a jungle print dyed au naturel, using crushed insects showed her spirited side with free-wheeling, swingy rain jackets and marigolds for pigment. The “green” looks — a pleated A-line skirt in patent leather that were first rate. All of it was shown with and waffle-weave wrap dress, in particular — were just as chic as the ballet flats or sandals and socks — underscoring Cornejo’s rest of the lineup. The nature theme continued throughout with polished comfort factor. rattan jackets and pretty green and white ombré tank dresses that were all about clean lines and zero crunch factor. Cynthia Rowley: Cynthia Rowley is living la vie sportive — Seventies style. Though it’s been a decade long mined by Ports 1961: A little subtlety would have done wonders for Tia Cibani’s designers, she managed to offer a refreshing take: slouchily cool suits, safari-themed collection. Her African inspiration came on strong — like wide-leg trousers, long cardigans and separates in the vein of a latter-day too much cologne — from the styling (one head wrap too many) to the Annie Hall. However, she could have done without those overly fringed cutesy run-of-show names (Masai gingham, anyone?). The prettiest dresses; they made one want to take a pair of scissors to them. But even looks, like a lace brocade coat and effortless silk ombré dresses, were with such missteps, Rowley delivered a strong showing — right down to lost in an onslaught of extreme draping and twisting. And while petal the delightful end when she and the models bicycled off the runway in embellishments made from the fingertips of surgical gloves were eco- their sporty best. witty, there’s such a thing as too many tricks up one’s sleeve.

MaxAzria: Max and Lubov Azria channeled the boudoir for their Liz Claiborne: The first Liz Claiborne collection under the guidance sensually silky collection of lingerie-inspired looks. But these are not of chief creative officer Tim Gunn honored the megabrand’s founding for sleepy-time gals. Using a dreamy palette of pale pinks and cloudy principles and the late Claiborne herself. The design team certainly grays, the Azrias created ethereal shapes for a confident woman who can considered its customer: the working woman who wants to dress her dance the night away in pretty little satin under-things-as-outer-things. age without feeling uptight or matronly. Thus, there were great basics Weightless slipdresses were pieced together with intricate paneling and — feminine cardigans, tailored pants and shift dresses in various pleated and textured insets, creating a subtle color-blocked effect. The volumes. Graphic prints and bold yellows and greens added oomph to designers also played with ombré silks, using the shaded effect at the the otherwise understated palette, and a cool factor was achieved with hems of miniskirts or to emphasize the sleeves of belted overblouses. It patent-leather jackets and a great slate trench in a techy nylon. 14 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 NEW Thakoon YORK Creative spring ’08 Process Artsy types, this one’s for you. The season is full of looks that are architectural, shimmering, quirky and fl at-out cool.

Thakoon: Thakoon Panichgul is deservedly praised for his technical innovation. How can one forget the nonclunky feathered skirt and peony motif of seasons past? For spring, however, he focused less on exploring a singular idea three-dimensionally and more on mood and narrative; in this case, a girl’s discovery of color, he said postshow. Yes, those unstructured dresses, Ts and skirts with painterly splats of color — a resort print revisited — are the kind his fans will surely seek out, but they weren’t necessarily as inventive as one expects. More interesting in this sartorial-stepping stone of a collection was his arty-but-practical sportswear: slouchy sweaters, shirts, skirts and shorts, raffi shly layered in a mix of men’s wear prints and a navy tie- dye — all fantastic and, more importantly, illustrating Panichgul’s desire to grow.

Doo.Ri: Doo-Ri Chung isn’t one to rest on her laurels — in this case, that would be her talent for beautiful draped jerseys. Instead, the designer made spring an exercise in sculptural construction. She started off with her typical fl owy numbers, but soon switched gears, working those familiar silhouettes with stiffer, more challenging fabrics, like cotton brocades — a fi rst for her. Chung also went with a transparency theme, ultimately making for one fabulous romantic reverie of a collection. Some dresses had sheer insets, others were encased in netting for a shadowed effect. Even the oversize Swarovski crystal embellishments were chicly cloaked in tulle, both individually and in clusters. The all-important lesson here: Glitz doesn’t have to shout.

Benjamin Cho: Brimming with indie street cred, Benjamin Cho has primed his ardent audience for out-there fashion. This season, as he explained backstage, his esoteric effort was about tight silhouettes sprouting organic appendages, a conceit realized in a perhaps too-obvious fashion by enormous Erickson Beamon agates laced upon body-conscious sheaths. Other sculptural maneuvers were much more clever: strips of fabric twisted into intriguing patterns on dresses and artfully knotted rope on tops and skinny pants.

Y-3: Yohji Yamamoto has quite a knack for spectacle. Remember last season’s lively light show, and the neon-lit barges on the Hudson the year before that? This time, the designer created a perfectly horrid thun- derstorm in the middle of a perfectly sunny day. It certainly set the mood for Y-3’s brooding clothes in intriguingly languid cuts and a mostly black palette. Cases in point: an off-kilter tank with a dramatic, full skirt, and a cloak-like sweater that conjured a sportif Harry Potter. But it wasn’t all rainy-day blues, even if the FX shower never let up. There were charming suspender dresses, logoed sarongs and chic wide-legged jeans — even some feather-hemmed frocks — in addition to the usual bright athletic fare for which Y-3 is known. And the footwear? Defi nitely waterproof.

McQ: London’s Hoxton neighborhood was Alexander McQueen’s home in the Nineties, and more recently it has played host to New Rave, a style of music fusing the electronic, new wave, disco and punk genres. Many of those ele- ments, not to mention a bit of glam rock, found their way into the designer’s fourth McQ collection. McQueen’s signature masculine-versus-feminine concept served as the perfect canvas for graffi ti patterns printed on a jumpsuit or foiled onto denim, which was a prominent fabric throughout. Meanwhile, sequins and other metallic elements, like the colored metal rings that came together in

▲ Doo.Ri the form of a dress, gave a distinct street vibe that was just right for the Bowery Hotel, where the collection was shown.

Rebecca Taylor: Rebecca Taylor was up to her usual tricks — thankfully. She where Baby Phat denim is colorful and trimmed with gobstopper-size knows so well how to fi ll her runways with the feminine, delicate stuff. But before crystals, and silk evening dresses under the KLS label leave little to teetering into too-cutesy territory, she balanced things out with a tomboyish — for the imagination. Sure, it was flashy, at times even trashy, but in the end her — motif. Like the prim sweatshirt coat that topped a glitzy pink sequined skirt her devoted clientele will undoubtedly think it’s just fantastic. or the jackets — whether slouchy, structured or military inspired — that tempered sweet lace tops. And her color choices were refreshing: berry and lavender mixed Sari Gueron: Easy, understandable and minimal, yet not boring by any with cool gray and blue. stretch — not the easiest feat for a young designer to manage. And yet, Sari Gueron deftly handled the challenge. In its simplest description, Baby Phat/KLS by Kimora Lee Simmons: Kimora Lee Simmons really does live life her collection featured straightforward silhouettes: cinched in the fab lane these days. The recently named creative director of all Phat Fashions minidresses, boxy tunics, loose pants. Sound ho-hum? Not a bit. Her (and star of her own reality series) clearly wanted to make the point that she’s in restrained embellishments — subtle chain links on a pleated cocktail charge when she unveiled the latest Baby Phat, KLS and Phat Farm collections, frock, tone-on-tone geometric beadwork and appliqués, the bright minus the never-to-be-seen-in-stores fantasy wear that has been her penchant in yellow cuffs of a gray boyfriend sweater — added interest, but never the past. But make no mistake, commercial doesn’t mean boring in Kimora’s world, dominated. The effect was effortless and chic. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 15 WWD.COM

Benjamin Cho McQ Y-3

Rebecca Taylor

KLS by Sari Gueron Kimora Lee Simmons

PHOTOS BY PASHA ANTONOV, JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE AND ROBERT MITRA GEORGE CHINSEE AND ROBERT JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY 16 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 Pretty, Polished and Punk Call it the dichotomy of the spring runways: The neat and tailored meets the edgy and dark.

Malandrino: It’s been quite a ride for Catherine Malandrino since she launched her designer collection in 2005. But a gorgeous stretch of road through the village of St. Paul de Vence in southern France proved an idyllic inspiration for spring. Highly sophisticated and oh-so-French, these are clothes for grown-up ladies who will appreciate, and be able to pull off, the drama of a pintucked and braided organza dress, or the embroidered grapes that adorned everything from blouse necklines to the wonderful stacked heels. While there were a few overwrought pieces, on a whole this collection was très chic.

Lacoste: That burst of energy Lacoste brought to its fi rst runway show two years ago is back, and then some. Christophe Lemaire’s spring collection was a virtual celebration: Lacoste bursts of color, a terrifi c range of sportswear and beach looks and, most surprising, a lineup that was both girly and sexy. All this, without losing a bit of that classic sportif core. The girliness was delivered in bold polkadots, gingham checks and fl irty pleats. As for the sex appeal, there were wide-legged, hip-hugging pants; skinny high-waisted shorts, and second-skin tanks and Ts, along with sizzling swimwear. For this traditional tennis house, it was a step forward into fashion — as in the terry cloth hobble-like skirt (this season’s trend du jour) and the long white beach dress that was just fabulous.

Phi: Andreas Melbostad is always clear about his in- spiration; this time around, he looked to The Clash. The result, not for girly girls, was an edgy twist on men’s tailoring, toughened up with zippers and chains, adorning a silhouette that was boxy on top and abbreviated on the bottom. Sleeveless blazers, vests and delicate tie-dyed silk tanks, often worn all at once, were paired with miniskirts, shorts or skinny pants that showed off some very butch mo- torcycle boots. Despite the use of lightweight fab- rics like crepe de chine and tropical wool, all that layered suiting might be a little heavy for spring.

Brian Reyes: Pretty and pulled together were the hallmarks of Brian Reyes’ show, which had its moments of originality. For his loyalists, there were variations on his standard silhouette: a corset-like top with a pouffy bottom, here realized in camisoles and skirts in a muted palette. What was more interesting were the bold textures and colors he chose — the show-opening pastel printed dress and the vibrant fuchsia frock, for example. On the other hand, the thigh-grazing tunics, or swim dresses as Reyes called them, were a big Prada-esque question mark.

Alexander Wang: Charlize Theron in “Monster” and Melanie Griffith in “Working Girl” might be the unlikeliest of fashion muses. But Alexander Wang’s collection wasn’t the eyesore that it could have been. Instead, he proposed a confidently cool dressing-down: ripped denim shorts paired with a roomy business blazer or breezy summer top, an oversize boyfriend shirt-cum-dress, simple pleated crepe jumpers. The big question, though, is will his customers shell out big bucks for clothes that resemble what’s probably sitting in their closets?

G-Star Raw: Staying true to the hard-edged, seemingly “Mad Max”-inspired style that G-Star has cultivated since 1996, designer Pierre Morisset organized a slickly choreographed show on a moving runway, much to the delight of attendees (including Duran Duran’s Simon Le Bon and Nick Rhodes). Though there was plenty of the brand’s trademark rigid, indigo denim, other fabrics such as cotton knit and jersey were fashioned into short-sleeved dresses and drop-crotch pants, and contributed to a well-rounded collection.

Jenni Kayne: Focusing on shape and proportion, Jenni Kayne presented a clean lineup that blended a Thirties elegance with a Seventies ease. The floor-length chiffon column gowns in forest green and deep teal were a refreshing choice for spring, while an ikat-printed chiffon minidress rounded it all out.

Ohne Titel: Designers Alexa Adams and Flora Gill, in a noteworthy sophomore effort, weren’t afraid to explore new shapes, and did so with aplomb. Jackets with molded, nipped- in waists, textured knits with rounded shoulders and silk skirts with ever-so-slight bustles were all inviting despite their unorthodox silhouettes. The season’s inspiration, Africa, was manifested in crochet cardigans and tribal-patterned dresses, ▲ Malandrino subtly mixed in with terrifically tailored looks. Adams and Gill still have a few wrinkles to iron out — the unnecessary raffia- and-surgical tubing accessories, for instance — but Ohne Titel definitely merits attention. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 17 WWD.COM

Brian Reyes NEW YORK spring ’08

Alexander Wang

G-Star Raw

Phi

Ohne Jenni Kayne Titel PHOTOS BY PASHA ANTONOV, JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT CENTENO, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY 18 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 Fashion Scoops Jessica Simpson and Michael Kors MORE DEMI: Proenza Schouler may have favored the Park Avenue Armory instead of Milk Studios this season, but for many guests at the Friday night show, the new space was as tight as the old. Proenza fan Demi Moore, for one, didn’t miss a beat when asked how she liked the Armory. “If I can have a little bit more room, I might be able to take it in,” she quipped. Kyra Sedgwick made her season debut at Proenza. “They asked me and I think their stuff is so beautiful,” she said. “Plus, one of them is a Jersey boy.” But isn’t Sedgwick a native New Yorker? “Yes, but that’s close enough.”

OSCAR’S SYMPHONY: Oscar de la Renta, who has TWIN SETS: Sitting pretty in a black mixed cool hip-hop sounds from the likes of Michael Kors shift dress, Maria Sharapova Missy Elliott into his runway soundtracks in the graced the designer’s front row on Sunday past, has a classical surprise up his sleeve for afternoon. “I wanted to support him his show today. WWD has learned the designer, because he has always supported me in who is foregoing the Bryant Park tents for a more tennis,” she said after setting off a blast intimate setting in a former Christian Science of fl ashbulbs, as did Jessica Simpson when church for his show Monday, wanted to utilize an she walked in. While Sharapova didn’t win organ within the new venue, so he called on his this year’s U.S. Open, she did stand friend Jann Wenner for advice. Wenner suggested out with her glammed up tennis gear. The Polyphonic Spree, and de la Renta, not one “My outfi ts on the court are drawn to skip a beat, hired the 23-member symphonic from all sorts of inspirations,” rock collective. she said. “From different runway shows, places I visit — every piece IN THE SWIM: Beyoncé’s father, Matthew Knowles, I wear is a collaboration between is “doing his duty” at the Gottex show, checking my personal sense of style and out the swim company for a possible licensing Nike’s.” Further down the row sat deal with the House of Deréon. Knowles said Bette Midler, who is looking forward his family has been in ongoing talks exclusively to her upcoming string of Las Vegas with Gottex to launch a House of Deréon swim performances. “It’s going to be line for summer 2008. What did he need to see fabulous and fantastic,” she vowed. Wednesday to secure the deal? “It has to be just Meanwhile, it appeared Mario like music,” he said. Testino and Hal Rubenstein just may be the new Captain and Tennille. A DAY AT THE LIBRARY: Jill Stuart is expecting Once Olivia Newton-John’s “Xanadu” a host of semi-bold names at its show today came over the sound system, the two, show at the New York Public Library, including seated on separate runways, both Carmen Electra, Tori Spelling, Bijou Phillips, Amy broke into song, bobbing their heads Ryan, Brittny Gastineau, Lisa Gastineau, Chad Michael Murray, Beth Ostrosky, Jaslene Gonzalez, Anna in time to the music and singing Anisimova, Kelly Bensimon, JC Chasez (who also attended last season), Tinsley Mortimer and The every lyric. Misshapes. The one noticeable absentee is likely to be the brand’s face of the season: Lindsay But did the designer himself Lohan — for obvious reasons. style his chief executive, John Idol, and co-owner, Lawrence Stroll? The two men were dressed identically ROCK ON: Ports 1961 is a Canadian brand, so it only made sense that it would import a fellow in a navy suit, white French cuff Canadian for its front row at Friday’s show. Bryan Adams had his own thoughts on the entire show shirt (although Idol had one more circus. “The shows are just too short for the production,” Adams said. “You have to remember I button buttoned than Stroll), black am a musician. Here, it’s this kind of a production and then it only takes fi ve minutes? Give me a Belgian loafers without socks, microphone and I will sing anytime.” large-faced wristwatch — even down to the three peaks on their BIG PHAT SCENE: The Baby Phat show is always a scene — case in point, the enormous crowd white pocket squares. “Great minds trying to get through the doors of the Roseland Ballroom on Friday evening. Some even got think alike,” Kors explained. creative. Since this season’s invite to the show looked like a U.S. passport, uninvited guests tried to get in by fl ashing their real passports to the guards. A few people got in, but were quickly

PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER AND THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY turned away when they had to get their seat assignments inside. Meanwhile, inside, Mary J. Blige, Ivana Trump, Star Jones (who was chatting extensively with Star magazine PEANUTS GALLERY: The Peanuts gang has been inspiring people for editor Bonnie Fuller) and Nick Cannon were 57 years, so it’s not so surprising fashion designers and celebrities among the famous faces waiting for the had no problem whipping up ensembles based on the beloved show to begin. characters for the MetLife Snoopy in Fashion show. Celebrities “I don’t wear Baby Phat, but she acting as fashion designers for the day included Kristin Chenoweth, does,” Cannon said pointing to his Whoopi Goldberg, Elisabeth Hasselbeck, “Design Star’s” David fi ancée, Victoria’s Secret model Selita Bromstad (who strutted his design — The Flying Ace), and Food Ebanks. Network’s Ingrid Hoffman. Models, including teen pop star JoJo “We love Kimora [Lee Simmons],” (in Sally by Chenoweth) and “America’s Next Top Model” winner Ebanks added. “And I may want to start CariDee (in Lucy by Liz Claiborne), giddily stomped down the my own line someday, so we are trying to runway to classic Peanuts tunes against a screen running clips from get to as many shows as we can.” the comic strip and animated specials. With a bit of whimsy and sometimes sex appeal, the creations at times seemed wearable, an NO SHOW: Behnaz Sarafpour didn’t take added bonus for people bidding on the designs on eBay starting a bow at the end of her show on Friday, Oct. 1. Proceeds from the online auction will benefi t Dress for but it wasn’t because she had a sudden Success, an organization that Charles Schulz’s widow, Jeannie, bout of stage fright — Sarafpour had says “Gives hope.” And just who is her favorite Peanuts character? to miss her own show. On her way to “I don’t have just one, but I identify with Sally because I used to venue in the morning, she started feeling call Sparky [Charles Schulz’s nickname] Sweet Baboo, that’s what ill, so her husband, Evan Shumeyko, Sally calls Linus.” The show wouldn’t have been complete without called for an ambulance to take the Peanuts Snoopy dancing down the runway before the fi nal Heatherette look Omayra in designer to Beth Israel Medical Center. inspired came out — a wedding dress embellished with mini Snoopy stuffed Snoopy inspired There, she was diagnosed with having dress by toys. Although Snoopy was the design duo’s subject, Richie Rich’s wedding dress a kidney stone and discharged later in Betsey favorite Peanuts character is actually Peppermint Patty. “She’s by Heatherette the evening. “I saw my show on Style. Johnson. edgy, cool and doesn’t like fashion,” he said. with Snoopy. com this morning,” said Sarafpour, who was resting at home for the weekend, WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 19 MENA AND MOTLEY: Mena Suvari was WWD.COM front row at the Rosa Cha show Saturday on Saturday. “I think my team did an amazing job in my afternoon, having recently returned from ladies gracing its front row, J.Mendel managed to wrangle a, absence. I’m very proud of them.” a fi lm shoot in Spain. “I Ioved everything shall we say, eclectic mix of celebrities. As Carrie Underwood about the country,” she said. “The people, and Jamie-Lynn Sigler posed for the fl ashbulbs, Mary J. Blige, CHANGE OF PACE: Maybe it was the unbearable heat or perhaps the weather, the food — everyone is so with husband Kendu Isaacs by her side, was swarmed by the hustle and bustle of fashion week wore them down passionate.” Suvari sported a spiky new video cameras. Luckily, Isaacs is used to the attention. “I’ve — whatever the reason, guests at Saturday afternoon’s Rodarte hairdo that she cut specifi cally for her role. been going to fashion shows since 2001,” he bragged. show let their guards down. A notoriously tight-lipped Vincent “It’s very easy now but I am trying to let it Blige sported, of course, a J.Mendel jacket and dress, Gallo sang the praises of the sibling design duo, “I defi nitely grow,” she said of her short, fl axen tresses. but it was her fi erce footwear that really stood out. “They’re think these girls are the most talented in the business,” the “Or else I’m kind of limited in my roles.” L.A.M.B.,” she said of her perforated leather stiletto booties. indie actor gushed. On the opposite side of the runway, Vogue Not too far away sat Nikki Sixx, best And while the pretty frocks cruising down the runway may creative director Grace Coddington ditched her signature basic known as the bassist of glam rock band have issued oohs and ahs from the rest of the crowd, don’t black for a diaphanous peach frock. “I tried it out in my house Mötley Crüe. The rocker was looking expect to see Blige in a chiffon concoction anytime soon. this summer in East Hampton,” the editrix revealed. “It takes a forward to checking out Amir Slama’s “I’m never too feminine,” she explained of her personal lot of courage to wear color when you’ve been wearing black for glamorous selection of swimwear. “I like style. “I always have to have a masculine edge.” 20 years!” both one and two pieces,” said Sixx. That edge doesn’t come cheap: though Isaacs wasn’t “Whatever you’re comfortable in.” Sixx is familiar with Mendel’s designs, he was well acquainted with SALE OF THE CENTURY: Those who admire the style of the late soon launching his own fashion company their fi nancial value. “I only know the credit card bills I Nan Kempner can get their hands on some of her clothes next called Royal Underground. “It’s clothing get!” he joked. month — when Christie’s is offering pieces from her wardrobe and jewelry,” he said. “It’s mixing the at its October House Sale. Christie’s, of which Kempner was cheap with the high-end — like cut-off SHOE BOOK: Footwear fanatics have a fantastical new tome once a representative, will feature 60 lots assembled in a shorts with a beautiful leather jacket. to whet their appetite, courtesy of photographer Michel complete look mixing designers, ready-to-wear with couture and That’s how I dress.” Tcherevkoff. Called “Shoe Fleur” (Random House, 2007), a variety of accessories. Among the design houses represented it shows all manner of fl ora contorted to resemble every in the sale are Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Valentino, Oscar imaginable style of stiletto, boot and slipper. Fans Ferruccio de la Renta, Carolina Herrera and Fendi, and the looks range Ferragamo and Diane von Furstenberg were fascinated enough from the Sixties to the time of her death in 2005. Highlights include a black chiffon and velvet to write the preface and introduction, while Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin requested gown by Saint Laurent, from about 2000, and a Christian Dior apricot gazar dress from 1968. advance copies. Tcherevkoff toasted his publication with a party at the Museum of Art and Proceeds from the Oct. 2 will benefi t The Society of Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center. Design Thursday night. There is just one caveat: Those who plan to wear the pieces should come with a whippet-thin frame comparable to Kempner’s, or, at least, start dieting straight away. CAMERA SHY: Friday’s Max Azria show at Bryant Park certainly drew a camera shy crowd: A Theory-clad Ivanka Trump and her beau, Jared Kushner, refused tandem photo-ops. “She’s the SHOCK WATCH: If you’re in the East Village over fashion week, staying at the Bowery one you really want anyway,” Kushner told the paparazzi. Taking her cue from the lovebirds, Hotel perhaps, check out an exhibit at Dave’s Quality Meat, the funky sneaker an expectant Nicole Richie took her seat only after the runway had been cleared. There were, retailer, for the new Casio G-Shock Concre, an exclusive watch line designed in however, some nonconformists who hammed it up for the lens, namely Molly Sims and Carrie collaboration with artists and brands from the world of street culture. Underwood, who arrived on the arm of Glamour editor in chief Cindi Leive (could a cover The fi rst G-Shock Concre series, featuring models created in partnership with shoot be in the works?) “It’s so nice to have someone you can always count on,” Underwood New York artists Eric Elms, Madsaki and Rostarr, and Dave’s Quality Meat, will be cooed of Azria’s designs. viewable to the public at an exclusive model launch exhibition during New York Fashion Week until Sept. 12. FAMILY BUSINESS: Ivana Trump is making the rounds this week even though she has 10- The G-Shock Concre will be available at retail in October. The Eric Elms, plus commercial and residential projects in the works in Qatar, China and Dubai. But Madsaki, Rostarr and Dave’s Quality Meat models will be produced in limited it’s not just the fi nancial booms that has lured her afar. “They have a lot of money, but quantities of 250 pieces each. 1000 pieces of an additional signature G-Shock they let architects do what they want. They don’t have zoning laws,” she said before Concre model will accompany the collaboration offerings. Nicole Miller’s show. “Here, buildings have to be 10 stories high and the neighbor has to have natural light. You really have your vision created there.” SIMS LICENSING: Molly Sims fl ew into New York for the weekend to catch Max The businesswoman said she is proud of her daughter Ivanka and not just due to Azria, Costello Tagliapietra and 3.1 Phillip Lim. In addition to preparing for the her budding jewelry line. As for offering any business advice, Trump said: “I had her Sept. 28 season debut of “Las Vegas,” the model-actress who will be on the trademark her name 20 years ago. I gave it to her, so I wanted to make sure it was October cover of In Style, said she’s working with a branding company in San protected.” Francisco for licensing deals, though she was tight-lipped about what types of Meanwhile, William Ivey Long was delighted to see Jane Krakowski of “30 products she would be endorsing. Rock,” whom he affectionately referred to as “one of his children.” But they weren’t the only members of the Broadway brigade pulling for Miller. Christine BIBHU TAKES FLIGHT: Not wanting to leave his mentor, Gilles Mendel, in the Ebersole watched from the wings. lurch, Bibhu Mohapatra waited until after Friday’s show to tell the designer he was leaving the company to go out on his own. After eight years of working for CRYSTAL CLEAR: Angelenos, refreshed from a summer-long break at the beach, Mendel, Mohapatra plans to launch a signature ready-to-wear collection for fall kicked off fall at the Beverly Hills opening of Maison Martin Margiela, which drew 2009. “This was not out of bitterness. I was looking for the next step. Gilles has a mix of artsy and industry folk. “I was in dread mode,” said Crystal Lourd of having given me this immense opportunity and under his guidance, we have created this to resume the party circuit after a summer off, “but it was such a cool party, with amazing brand,” he said. Mohapatra was off to Paris for his friend Prince Amyn Aga different people.” To wit, there was nary a movie star to be seen. “It certainly doesn’t Khan’s birthday party in the family’s chateau on Saturday and then plans to visit his feel like L.A.,” said Shiva Rose McDermott over the beat of the African drummers. Guests also own kin in India. Once that sojourn is over at the end of the month, Mohapatra will be donned edgy gear in black and white, but, in keeping with the maison’s white and silver decor, back at the drawing board in his design studio at 2095 Broadway. only clear liquids were served.

CHANGE IS GOOD: It’s pretty much a given that celebs attending a designer’s show will be BLASS BLAST: Robert D’Loren, chief executive offi cer of NexCen Brands Inc., which owns the sporting his or her clothes in the front row. But Friday morning, Sarah Michelle Gellar took Bill Blass brand, said at the Blass presentation event Thursday that he’s been busy logging this sign of respect to new levels. After taking in the 9 a.m. Ports 1961 collection at the miles from store to store talking to everyone and anyone regarding Blass. On the agenda tents, the actress quickly changed into a black Vera Wang dress for the designer’s 10 a.m. are new Blass licensees for handbags and accessories, as well as a Blass men’s line, all of show. Just how did she pull off such a switcheroo feat? “I’m like Superman,” she smiled. which are expected to come to fruition in 90 days, D’Loren said. Arnold Simon, who has “And, yes, I have a phone booth.” What happened to Buffy the Vampire Slayer? the Blass denim license, also is keeping a hectic schedule: He’s gearing up to launch his Members Only label, which is set to hit high-end specialty stores such as Fred Segal and CYNTHIA ROWLEY’S BOOK CLUB: After releasing her “fantasy memoir” earlier this year, Scoop in fall 2008. According to Simon, the label will feature both men’s and women’s Cynthia Rowley counted herself among literary friends at her Friday show Debbie Harry at Tommy Hilfi ger and offerings, with outerwear starting at $300. at Gotham Hall. Friends James Frey and Candace Bushnell, who are both George Lois’ party celebrating their working on their next books, fi lled the front row. Bushnell, wearing Alexander book “Iconic America” at MoMA OHHHMMMM: Fashion week is far from relaxing for most retail buyers. Not McQueen, said she is penning yet another book “on New York women,” as Wednesday night. so for the folks from Saks Fifth Avenue. Midday Wednesday, the entire the shooting for “Lipstick Jungle” — for which “fashion will be a big part of accessories team began a pilgrimage from the tents to the Shambhala the show” — commences this fall. “I’m trying to gather up all the look books Meditation Center of New York. A three-hour session, called “The Power of now,” Bushnell said, adding she particularly liked Balenciaga. the Positive Question,” provided a refl ective calm, but, according to fashion director of accessories Beth Kante, the biggest question on everybody’s DESIGNER NIGHT: A fair sampling of CFDA members are expected at the mind was what outfi t could take the crew from runway to relaxation and party at Bergdorf Goodman Tuesday night for “American Fashion,” which A sketch from back again. chronicles 20th century American fashion and is at BG for about a month Angel Sanchez’s before hitting bookstores. Diane von Furstenberg, Michael Kors, Mario spring collection. AN ANGELIC MUSE: Angel Sanchez’s client of 15 years and fellow Testino, Peter Som, Derek Lam, Arnold Scassi, Reem Acra, Gilles Mendel, Venezuelan, Patricia Phelps de Cisneros, provided the inspiration for the Janis Savitt, Charlotte Moss, Yigal Azrouël, Liz Lange, Stan Herman, Angel designer’s fi rst show since 2001. She gave him a book of her private art Sanchez, Robert Lee Morris, Stephen Burrows, Eugenia Kim, Elie Tahari, collection, “The Geometry of Hope: Latin American Abstract Art from the Robert Danes, Tommy Hilfi ger, Nicole Miller and Carolina Herrera will show Patricia Phelps de Cisneros Collection,” and the works from artists like — after all, many of them are in the book. And speaking of the tome, if Gego, Alejandro Otero, and Jesus Rafael Soto reminded Sanchez of his you want one of the 30 or so collector’s editions signed by CFDA design- favorite art from his youth. He incorporated the geometrical looks and ers, expect to write a big check. They’re priced at $1,000, compared to rich textures with bits of primary color into his collection, which shows the regular $50 edition. Monday. Phelp de Cisneros’ art will be on exhibit as “The Geometry of Hope” from Wednesday to Dec. 8 at the New York University Grey Art IMITATION OF FASHION WEEK: “I’m so relaxed — I feel like fashion week is Gallery. going in slow motion,” said Tara Subkoff, whose Imitation of Christ line is not showing this season. “I’ve never been a tourist for New York Fashion BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS: They say breakfast is the most important Week before.” The designer had not planned to attend fashion week at meal of the day, and at the Ferragamo store Friday morning it was all, but decided at the last minute to come back from a month in Bali to at least the most fun. To celebrate the new children’s book, “Fiera,” attend friends’ shows, like Cynthia Rowley and Max Mara. She said she is the Italian brand threw a party for yummy mummies and their kids, attending shows this week “since I am trend forecasting,” (though she chockablock with balloons, face painting, coloring and bite-size carefully avoiding saying for whom). Subkoff added she will also unveil a goodies. Of course, most of the tykes who could take the morning off design collaboration soon. were still crawling, as the older ones were all in school. Which is too bad, because who wants to miss out on french fries and grilled cheese MASCULIN-FEMININ: In addition to the expected blow-dried lineup of for breakfast? 20 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM Riding High: Armani Takes Texas By Rusty Williamson Giorgio Armani prepares a model DALLAS — GIORGIO ARMANI CONQUERED BIG D. for the charity fashion show. The Italian designer brought his charisma to Dallas during a whirlwind three-day visit that culminated Friday with a sold-out show of his fall 2007 ready-to-wear collection at Neiman Marcus’ downtown fl agship. The event helped raise almost $1 million for Dallas children’s charities. Armani, who fi rst came to the city 25 years ago, said he has high regard for his clients here and the response to his designs was an indicator of the universality of the Armani look. “I’ve seen the Dallas customer evolve and become more and more sophisticated over the last two decades,” Armani told WWD. “And through these evolutions they continue to be among my best and most devoted customers.” A crowd of about 1,000 admirers rewarded him with a stand- ing ovation when he took a bow after sending more than 50 wom- en’s and men’s styles down a gleaming black-lacquer runway to the beat of tribal dance music. The fashion show was staged for the annual Crystal Charity Ball Luncheon — guests included seven-time Tour de France champion Lance Armstrong, a Texan — in a huge tent on the parking lot adjacent to the store. The show provided heat in more ways than one. Along with 95-degree temperatures and high humidity, there were sizzling beaded black and gray dresses inspired by the Twenties and Thirties, a favorite Armani theme. There were plunging necklines and Swarovski-crystal pais- ley embellishment on busts, cuffs and collars, as well as bubble-hem dresses that stopped just above the knee, slim skirts and full-cut trouser-style pants. Amid the parties and dinners for Armani — including a cocktail recep- tion hosted by developer Ross Perot Jr. in his penthouse at the W Hotel at the Victory Park retail, offi ce, hotel and en- tertainment center, and a private din- ner at Stephan Pyles restaurant in the Arts District hosted by Gigi Howard, public relations director of the Natura Bisse skin care company, and author Kim Schlegel Whitman — the 73-year- old designer spent most of his time working. In fact, he reiterated that he Lance Armstrong True to his métier, Armani spent most of his time cloistered in a conference has no plans to retire, unlike his con- and Karen Katz room atop Neiman’s fl agship that had been converted into a makeshift fashion ate- temporary, Valentino Garavani. lier, complete with a short black-paper runway for Armani to instruct his models on how to exude just the right catwalk demeanor. Looks from He stayed up late Thursday night to fi t models and make last-min- the fall 2007 ute adjustments in preparation for Friday’s fashion show, which also Giorgio Armani included the naming of the 10 best-dressed women in Dallas. collection. “Mr. Armani has been busy since he arrived in Dallas making sure that every detail of his collection and show were perfect,” said Karen Katz, president and chief executive offi cer of Neiman Marcus Stores. In fact, Shelli Sills, vice president and general manager of the Neiman’s fl agship, said the retailer “spent 10 days building this set- ting for Mr. Armani and his amazing designs, and this show and his visit to Neiman Marcus is a wonderful way to help us celebrate our 100th birthday.” Burt Tansky, president and ceo of the Neiman Marcus Group, de- scribed Armani as “a living icon, and we are very pleased that he has come to Dallas as our guest of honor for the 2007 Crystal Charity Luncheon, taking place in our centennial year. He exemplifi es the great style, elegance and innovation that also defi nes Neiman Marcus as we embark on our second century and look to the future.” Armani arrived at Neiman Marcus on Wednesday and got a Texas- size welcome from more than 1,000 Neiman’s associates and fans as he strode into the store. On Thursday afternoon, he received a similar greeting when several hundred fans showed up at the Neiman Marcus store in NorthPark Center for a chance to meet the designer and get his autograph on a copy of the book “Armani Backstage” (Frederico Motta, $35 ), a coffee-table tome on his career. Armani and his staff departed the Lone Star State after Friday’s show and fl ew directly to Milan, where he is in the midst of prepa- rations for his spring 2008 collection, to be presented during Milan Fashion Week later this month. Tickets to the Neiman’s fashion show sold out within hours after the announcement that Armani would be the guest designer, under- scoring his popularity with Dallas luxury shoppers. The show also included the presentation of the 10 best-dressed women in Dallas, all of whom wore Armani clothes when they were escorted down the runway before the show. Each year The Crystal Charity Ball Committee chooses 10 women within the organization who personify great personal style. This year’s list included Charlotte Anderson, Pam Busbee, Alison Farrow, Ola Fojtasek, Killi Ford, Heather Furniss, Carmen Godwin, Libby Hunt, Di Johnston and Betsy Sowell. Dee Wyly was chosen as The Crystal Charity Best-Dressed Hall of Fame honoree. Since 1952, the main mission of The Crystal Charity Ball organization has been to aid, support and make contributions to children’s charities in Dallas County. A nonprofi t organization that’s independent of any na- tional affi liation, The Crystal Charity Ball Committee has raised in ex- cess of $72 million for more than 90 benefi ciaries. This year, the 100 ac-

PHOTOS BY NAN COULTER PHOTOS BY tive members of the group committed to raise more than $4.6 million.

22 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM A Trio Bows in Manhattan Companies are banking on bags and baubles as they open fl agships this week. By Sophia Chabbott

SMYTHSON LAMBERTSON TRUEX The 200-year-old British stationer For nine years, Richard is known for its elegantly com- Lambertson and John Truex pact diaries and notebooks with have been longing for a place cheeky titles such as “Blondes, where they can show off their Brunettes and Redheads,” but the merchandising skills and pres- firm’s new stores intend to update ent the world of Lambertson Smythson’s image. Truex to the public. Mission ac- Smythson opened a second complished. unit in the U.S. last month at Two The accessories design part- Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, and ners on Tuesday will celebrate today marks the opening of the the opening of the Lambertson brand’s renovated 57th Street flag- Truex Manhattan flagship. The Above: A rendering of Lambertson Truex’s New York ship in Manhattan. The Beverly 1,800-square-foot, two-story boutique. Below: John Truex and Richard Lambertson. Hills store is 1,200 square feet boutique at 692 Madison and the 4 West 57th Street empo- Smythson’s Rodeo Drive store. Avenue, like the Melrose Place rium is 1,500 square feet. store in Los Angeles that “The New York store is six years opened in May, was designed old,” said chief executive officer The Nancy by Tsao & McKown Architects. Paddy Byng. “In that time, Smythson has developed into a fully bag. The space has a contemporary fledged luxury accessories brand.” and luxurious feel, with dark For fall, the firm introduced the Nancy collection, a line of plush, wood floors, chrome and wood tufted leather bags that take inspiration from two Nancys: British cabinetry and displays that novelist and biographer Nancy Mitford and Nancy Lancaster, co- are removable for functions. owner of decorating firm Sibyl Colefax & John Fowler. Custom-designed beige couches Smythson’s accessories volume has been growing 30 and a special chandelier add percent year-over-year, Byng said, and the company plans warmth and depth to the light- for its new stores to merchandise accessories even more filled store. efficiently. All of the brand’s product categories will be sold, including handbags, shoes, belts “We are constantly striving to diversify our ranges to and gloves for women, as well as men’s shoes and bags. cater to our existing and new customers,” said creative di- “When Richard and I started our company in 1998, [having a store on Madison] was rector Samantha Cameron. “Each store is carefully arranged to something we always dreamed of,” Truex said. “This is really our flagship. There is also cater to the customer base. We have introduced new display units, a bespoke area where customers can customize bag colors, including elegant, tall glass towers for the new Nancy bag collection.” Lambertson an array of exotic skins, hardware options and even Deluxe leather jewelry cases, clutches and photo albums in pistachio, lavender and clementine will Truex’s lining colors. Bespoke is discreetly in the corner, so be offered at both stores, in addition to basics such as $20,000 we can have a little privacy with our customers. It’s black and brown. crocodile duffl e. intimate.” Samantha Cameron The Beverly Hills boutique also has a mini museum The firm, which Samsonite acquired last featuring the archival Smythson stationery of luminaries year, anticipates that sales in New York will such as Sigmund Freud and Princess Diana. There is a be far different from the Los Angeles store. bespoke stationery salon for those selecting personalized “In L.A., women are buying day bags stationery or invitations. and men have been responding to suede The store has a few exclusive items, including the and leather combinations,” Truex said. Nancy bag in ivory and four notebooks saying either “New York will definitely sell python and “California Wine Notes,” “L.A. notes,” “Film Notes” or they’ll go right into the leopard.” “Director’s Notes.” There are plans to open more There are plans to roll out as many as 10 more bou- boutiques, in Las Vegas in 2009 and tiques in the U.S. by the end of 2012, in addition to the other U.S. locations, as well as in Asia 14 stores Smythson currently operates. and Russia.

IVANKA TRUMP For those with the desire to get a glimpse of Ivanka Trump’s boudoir, her namesake jewelry store may be the next best thing. The brand’s first boutique, at 683A Madison Avenue, opens today, taking inspira-

tion from the abode of the 26-year-old daughter CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY of Donald Trump. It is replete with plush ivory chenille-upholstered sofas, a mirrored vanity set, shagreen tables, an antique étagère dis- playing vintage evening bags and cosmetics mirrors that inspired the line, as well as rich drapes, silk tufted walls and custom carpeting, all accented with her signature color, coral. “I put so much weight on anything that Ivanka Trump’s Madison bears my name, whether it’s my first or last Avenue store and a ring name,” Trump said about her partnership with from the line. Dynamic Diamond Corp., a Diamond Trading Co. siteholder. “This is the first independent project I’ve done as an individual. Plus, it’s dif- ferent from anything else I do.” Indeed, the collection of diamond tassel bracelets, simple onyx earrings with diamond Ivanka accents and an array of diamond engagement Trump rings is a far cry from the brick and mortar of the buildings she develops. The jewelry is meant to accessibly move from day to evening, whether it be a drop earring or a multistrand bracelet with her signature oval-shaped closure. Munro recently photographed her for the brand’s first ad campaign. Trump even has her own diamond cut, a step-cut oval that has yet to A store in Las Vegas is to open later this year, as is an interna- be named. tional location. There are no plans to extend the Ivanka Trump brand Prices range from $750 and go into the millions of dollars. Tom into other categories. Denim announcment forCoterie Launching in January 2008

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www.cocandco.com 24 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM Simply Vera Vera Wang Kicks Off at Kohl’s

By WWD Staff Simply Vera Vera Wang ohl’s Corp.’s nationwide launch Sunday of its new Simply Vera Vera Wang on display in Chicago. Kline was low-key at best — although early sales are anything but. The Menomonee Falls, Wisc.-based retailer ran ads for the collection in Vogue, In Style and Cosmopolitan, trumpeted Simply Vera on its Web site, hung banners over store entrances and received plenty of editorial play, but crowds never materialized. The company actually put Simply Vera into stores early last week, which might have stolen some of the offi cial launch’s thunder. Sources close to the retailer said sales were trending four times ahead of expectations and added Simply Vera Vera Wang was selling fi ve times better than Chaps, which Kohl’s launched in 2005. At a Kohl’s location in the West Hills community of Los Angeles’ San Fernando Valley, shoppers benefi tted from a roll-out earlier in the week. The store prominently showcased the line, displaying the collection at the front of the store in the Misses section and gave it corner play with three manne- quins wearing a purple scoopneck tank dress, a lavender beaded shell top and bubble skirt and a purple ruffl e blouse and black ankle pants. A sales associate said the collection was selling well, from blouses to coats. Smaller sizes were sold out in some styles, such as the long one-button, short- sleeve coat in ash and black; the white, button-down shirt, and long-sleeve, crewneck T-shirts in lavender, ash, white and black. Because the store was in the midst of inventory week, “Do Not Inventory” signs were plastered on mannequins throughout the collection, prohibiting associates from selling items from the display. That left one customer who couldn’t buy the long coat on the mannequin disgruntled and she left empty- handed. The sales associate said those items would be avail- TYLER BOYE ANGELES BY LOS KAREN HOYT; CHICAGO PHOTO BY able Sept. 17. sometimes attend designer introductions at moderately priced A handful of customers stopped by the store to see the stores. “It’s defi nitely not Vera, Vera Wang,” she said. “But it’s line. Diann Karnitsky, an advertising sales representative nice. The dresses look nice and I like the pintuck tops. I shop from the Lake Balboa, Calif., neighborhood, planned to at Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom. The short sleeve black try on at least half a dozen tops, including a white beaded coat is beautiful. The prices are very affordable. She has a shell blouse. But, she expressed concern about the fabrics few very nice staples for working women. They’re all chic.” and prices. But, said DiRese, the clothes still had to pass the litmus “Some of the fabrics seem a little cheesy and some of test — fi t. these pieces are high-priced for Kohl’s,” she said. “I like the At the Kohl’s unit on North Elston Avenue in Chicago, long coat, but I don’t know if I want to spend $128 on a coat there were no lines, but a steady stream of curious custom- at Kohl’s when it may go on sale in one week.” ers did come by to check out the collection. The line had cross-generational appeal for the Wheeler “We’re here for this,” said Susan Moroco, referring to family, who drove about 30 minutes from Pacifi c Palisades. Simply Vera. She arrived at the store at around 9:15 a.m. Lynn Wheeler hoped to buy a pair of basic black jeans ($50) with friend Alex Mikos. “I had it on my calendar.” and a white sweater with buttons ($58). “The pictures in “I’m surprised,” Mikos said, noting the lack of crowds. the ads looked really cute,” Wheeler said. “I hope I can get “We were expecting a huge line.” Mikos, who was wearing a some ‘mom’ clothes and get some dresses for my [11-year- black puffed-sleeve blouse from the Libertine collection for old] daughter.” Target’s Go! International series and jeans, said that most At the Nanuet, N.Y. store, the Simply Vera collection was of designer introductions at downtown Target locations sell sandwiched between racks of apparel by AB Studio, Nine out so quickly she has to call on her mother to scout subur- & Co., Stamp 10 and Axcess. While a display with three ban locations. mannequins wearing styles from the collection had a bit Moroco, who saw early images of Simply Vera in fashion of breathing room, the Simply Vera fi xtures were so close magazines, recalled thinking that “it was gorgeous — sim- to racks holding the other brands it was hard to tell things ple and romantic with classic Vera Wang cuts. And I loved apart. Four shelves with scrunched up Simply Vera sweat- the rich jewel tones.” ers occupied one corner of the display and tops were hung A Simply Vera Vera Wang rack in Los Angeles. “I love the ruched belts,” said Mikos. with skirts that didn’t match. Moroco bought a black skirt with satin pleats at the hem, During a two-hour period Sunday morning, only four a black satin topper coat, a white blouse with Empire waist, women visited the display. a sleeveless teal pleated top and a pair of black jewel-embellished fl ats, all for about “They did a terrible job of promoting [Simply Vera] and it’s not merchandised par- $400. “I spent more money than I thought possible,” she said. “All the little details ticularly well,” said Amy Nadel, who traveled from northern New Jersey “where ev- seemed to be there. I was impressed. We’ll see how it wears.” erything is closed on Sunday.” At Kohl’s at the Medallion Center near downtown Dallas, the Simply Vera Vera Nadel, who heard about the launch on the Internet, said she was surprised more Wang display near the front of the store and the beauty department was empty of shoppers hadn’t shown up. However the jackets, pants and sweater she saw in a Vogue shoppers at 10 a.m. Sunday. Some time later, a shopper was browsing the styles. “I ad and came to buy were nowhere to be found. Nadel was also disappointed the store like the sophisticated colors and feminine styling that thankfully doesn’t include a lot didn’t have the shirred fl yaway jacket in her size. “Considering that over half the of loud prints,” said the shopper, who declined to give her name. “The home selection women in America are a size 14 and above, they should have more sizes,” she added. is very Upper East Side with all the muted tones of purple, vanilla and gray.” The line goes from size 4 to 16. Michael Stone, president and chief executive offi cer of the Beanstalk Group, a “When I see Simply Vera at Kohl’s, I’m like, ‘Wow,’” said Mary Lynch. “I can say, brand-licensing agency, believes Simply Vera will resonate with customers. “Vera ‘I’m wearing Vera Wang.’” Lynch, who was shopping for her son, continued: “I didn’t Wang is not a made-up name,” he said. “It’s not a tired brand that’s being reintro- hear about [the launch.] I wouldn’t necessarily look at ads, but I’d notice it walking by.” duced at mass. It’s a vibrant, robust fashion brand that’s living upstairs and suc- Picking up a camel-colored long textured coat for $128, she said, “This is adorable. It’s ceeding upstairs.” cute stuff. What I like about it is that it’s not everywhere. I think it will last.” Stone didn’t expect a feeding frenzy for the collection because “the Kohl’s customer Christine DiRese made a special trip to Kohl’s expecting the lines and chaos that knows it’s there and going to be there for a while. It will bring customers to Kohl’s.”

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By Karyn Monget The size of the Asian contingent under- Longline lace bra with scored a substantial turnout of U.S. retailers LYON, France — The growing importance of Asian exhibitors, suspenders and thong who sent product development designers distributors and retailers permeated the traditional French by Lisa’s Folly. and merchandising teams from major brick- setting of the Lyon, Mode City lingerie and Interfilière tex- and-mortar, e-commerce and catalogue tile fair here. businesses to create proprietary labels and This year, in particular, represented a transition period merchandise one to two years in advance. for many brands and retailers, especially European resourc- Retailers exploring the private label realm es trying to adapt to changes in manufacturing, sourcing and included Nordstrom, Dillard’s Department distribution. Stores, J.C. Penney Co., Soma by Chico’s, Over the past several years, the 25-year-old trade show Victoria’s Secret and Lands’ End. has successfully transformed itself into a three-day global But while a number of exhibitors said melting pot of cultural trends as well as brands and visitors traffi c was sporadic, there were also execu- from the international marketplace. The number of visitors tives who raved over the pace of business. at the fair that closed Sept. 3 was 17,404, with 11,461 rep- Ann Deal, founder and ceo of Ce Soir resenting the international marketplace and 5,943 French Inc., a Van Nuys, Calif.-based intimates fi rm guests. In all, 519 lingerie and swimwear brands were exhib- that owns a factory in China, said she was ited from 36 countries, show offi cials said. “extremely pleased with scores of new busi- The giant trade fair organizer Eurovet began address- ness opportunities.” ing the demand for networking in the Asian market, as “We’ve shown here for fi ve years, and well as sourcing, manufacturing, distribution and licensing business has been very brisk,” Deal said. pacts among vendors when it launched the Shanghai Mode “We opened up a dozen new European Lingerie fair, aimed at the Chinese market, in October 2005, accounts, and worked with Soma and and the Hong Kong Mode Lingerie show, which was intro- Nordstrom’s private label. Nordstrom said duced in April 2006. they would like to stay here another three Marie-Laure Bellon-Homps, chief executive offi cer of days because of all of the interesting new Eurovet, said the move into Asia addressed two major fac- trims and embroideries. They work two tors that are a prerequisite to be competitive in the global years in advance.” arena: providing a platform for private label, innovation and Guido Campello, vice president of prod- product development, and developing a tighter lead time uct development at Miami-based Cosabella, for distribution of branded merchandise. The next show in a daywear, foundations and at-homewear Shanghai is scheduled for Oct. 26 and 27. A date for the next company, said: “It was like the United Hong Kong fair has not been set. Nations around here. We were so busy with The thrust into Asia was cause for concern among some people from countries like Japan, Russia, U.S. and French exhibitors, many of which have shown at Brazil, Germany, England and Scandinavia. the Lyon fair and its sister show, the Salon International de It was amazing.” la Lingerie in Paris, for years. However, next year’s dates However, major specialty stores that sell for Lyon have been already scheduled despite specula- tion that the Lyon edition might be discontinued because a 6ixty 8ight’s growing majority of retail- Aimer’s printed bridal trousseau. set. ers and manufacturers have satin and lace completed their trend and concept packages for spring 2009. “We continue to look at the question of timing for the [Lyon] show, but the dates for 2008 have been set for Sept. 6, 7 and 8,” Bellon- Homps said. She added that DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY a preview of European tex- tiles and laces last June at the Palais des Congrès in Paris was a “huge success” and that Eurovet plans a second session this June as a jump-start to the Lyon fair. Regarding Eurovet’s grow- ing investment in Asia, Bellon- Homps said, “There are a lot of big investors in China and there is a lot of innovation as well. I have a lot of respect for Asians. But it’s diffi cult to know what’s going on there from afar. It’s much better to go there and know who the main players are.” As a result of the interest in the Far East, a key move in Lyon this year was a major focus on private label development of textiles and laces from China, which coincided with a strong contingent of Chinese lingerie companies presenting names with a Westernized fl avor such as Milan Lingerie, Aimer, Lorenza, Jealousy, Jennifer, Bla Bla Bra, Maidens, No Romeo and 6ixty 8ight. Another moniker, Aibuxi, repre- sented the Hong Kong Trade Development Council. European and U.S. innerwear executives said the number of compa- nies based in Hong Kong, China and Taiwan that exhibited private label products has more than doubled in the last two years. There were some 41 lingerie makers from China, 18 innerwear fi rms from Hong Kong and 184 textile and lace concerns, including Taiwan, according to the show top lingerie brands and work on shorter lead times, such catalogue. as Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, were absent “There’s more private label from Asia than I’ve ever seen before,’’ Bla Bla Bra’s for the fi rst time in memory, as were several major French said Steve Chernoff, chief executive offi cer of Rago, a Long Island City, multiprint bra brands that were missing from the lingerie action at the N.Y.-based maker of shapewear. “I believe they must be transitioning and bikini. EuroExpo, including Aubade, Simone Pérèle and Lejaby. from the shows they are doing in China. All in all, it’s been a good show, Also absent were two big U.S. names that traditionally show but it’s caused me a lot of anxiety.” in Lyon: Warnaco with its Warner’s, Olga and Calvin Klein Willy Mrasek, creative director for private label and brands at Felina Lingerie, Underwear brands, and VF Intimates, which has the Vanity Fair, Lou and Belcor la- maker of Felina and Jezebel bras in Chatsworth, Calif., said, “We had plenty of time to bels. VF Corp. sold its intimate apparel business to Fruit of the Loom this year. see our people and resources, but it seemed a little bleak in terms of brands.” A European innerwear executive, who did not want to be identifi ed, said, “The Liss Hydinger, director of merchandising for the Felina and Jezebel brands, said, focus on private label from Asia has angered quite a few French brands. That’s why “We went to Lyon for early spring 2009, but there weren’t that many textile resources some marquees did not exhibit at the show last year and why some this year have who were prepared.” rented hotel suites in Lyon to privately show their clients.”

28 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM Jewelry Feature Graff Capitalizing on Luxe Boom By Sophia Chabbott have to wait on occasion for one of the four selling desks — and Graff cus- tomers don’t like to wait. The new store a bit further down on Madison ltraexclusive luxury is riding a wave of unparalleled wealth — Avenue is 5,600-square feet on two fl oors, with private rooms for clients. Uand it could just catapult uberexpensive jeweler Graff into a $1 A signature style Graff ’s clients also buy contemporary art, homes in high-profi le billion brand. from Graff. resorts, yachts, planes and fl eets of extraordinary Italian sports “We are in times we have never seen before,” said Henri cars. But diamonds are a newer venture for them. Barguirdjian, the tall, imposing and charming president “There’s a tremendous amount of uncertainty out there,” said and chief executive offi cer of Graff, America. “There’s more Emanuel Weintraub, president and ceo of Emanuel Weintraub money than ever fl oating around.” Associates. “There are a huge amount of people with an awful lot High-end diamond jewelry sales are brilliant, due in of money. A lot of [large diamond sales] are being fueled by uncer- part to an infl ux of new buyers. Young billionaires starting tainty in the marketplace.” in their early 30s from places like Russia, Dubai, Macau, Weintraub said that essentially, those who can are hedg- Kazakhstan and India are gobbling up large and important ing diamonds. stones. Whereas top jewelers once had to compete for the “It has to do with preservation of wealth,” said Weintraub. small crop of middle-aged and elder consumers, now it seems “It’s subprimed by the credit crunch, which is a tremendous there are enough to go around. issue. So you if you say, ‘I’ll spend several million on some To service its seemingly ever-growing clientele, Graff is diamonds,’ that’s always going to have a value.” expanding with four new stores — including, notably, its fi rst “Today’s billionaire is yesterday’s millionaire,” said two boutiques in Asia. The 3,500-square-foot store in Tokyo, Carol Brodie, chief luxury offi cer of Curtco Media, which slated to open this week, is located in the city’s Marunouchi, publishes Robb Report, a favorite “catalogue” of the mon- across from the Imperial Palace and not far from Ginza. The eyed community. “There are more ultra-net-worth individu- Hong Kong store is situated within the Peninsula Hong Kong als than ever before. Someone with $10 million net worth is and will open next spring. at the low end of the spectrum. These people have learned The fi rm also will open a store on Geneva’s Rue du Rhone early next how to spend their money. They will buy anything that is year, while a long-planned new Manhattan fl agship designed by Peter rare or one of a kind.” Marino also will open next year. The money is coming from a number The average sales transaction? $400,000. of places and is notably international Barguirdjian seems astounded by his clients. and not American. The wealth out “We are really living in unbelievable times,” he said. “We’re trading with of Russia comes from the metals much younger clients than jewelers a generation ago. These are self-made business, such as aluminum or businessmen and -women in their 30s and 40s — very young people.” steel; oil, and even insurance While these clients are new to purchasing $1 million diamond and other fi nancial services. Oil, suites, they are educated about the goods. Henri obviously, is a big profi t maker “They are very keen and sharp about the quality they receive,” Barguirdjian in Dubai. Also, those in fi nance, Barguirdjian said. namely hedge funds and traders, The company now has 13 stores and may go up to a total of are bringing in the revenue in lo- 20. There would be more, but, due to limits of supplies, it’s just cales from London to Hong Kong. not possible. An Asian client purchased Men are the primary customers “The level of product we sell is so special, so there will this $30 million necklace at Graff, but Oprah Winfrey, Imelda never be 50 stores,” Barguirdjian said. “Graff would become this spring. Marcos and Victoria Beckham are a few just a company. Not what we are now.” of its well-known female clients. And the Barguirdjian said that, in the past three years, there has company likes to serve its clients well. been tremendous growth. Graff Diamonds, owned by Londoner “We entertain them. We throw a good party,” said Barguirdjian. Laurence Graff, saw sales leap to $400 million last year from $90 “You work hard, but you play hard, too.” million in 2000, with aftertax profi ts soaring from $11 million to In July, the fi rm held a client party in Monte Carlo, Monaco, which $48 million, according to a recent profi le of the owner in Forbes Barguirdjian said lasted until “the wee hours.” The private soirées can magazine. Barguirdjian confi rmed the numbers, adding transac- be outlandish, sometimes with lions and other attractions. Competing com- tions in his stores can take anywhere from fi ve minutes to a couple panies such as Chopard, Van Cleef & Arpels and de Grisogono throw similar of years to complete. client events, mostly in resort destinations like St. Barth’s and Saint Moritz. The goal is to bring the brand to the $1 billion mark and beyond. “Why But, while Graff is opening more stores worldwide, Barguirdjian is always more not?” Barguirdjian mused. “The sky’s the limit.” than willing to hop on a plane and travel to his clients: Palm Beach, Fla., in the Graff has carved what was the small niche of selling million-dollar pieces winter; summer in London, and Monte Carlo. into a full-fl edged market rife with customers. It’s helped by the fact that it How will Graff fare if the credit crunch dives into a recession? owns its own mines, making it a completely vertical operation. But, while the “A recession would affect us less than others,” said Barguirdjian. “I’m not saying company is arguably at the top of the pyramid in the uberexpensive jewelry [our clients] are recession-proof. Nobody is recession-proof.” category, Chopard and Leviev are rising competitors. But with so much money washing about — and hedge funds and other investors On Asia, Barguirdjian said: “Being an international brand, we need to be in increasingly on the lookout for acquisitions — the question is whether Graff would Asia. It’s the market of the future….Asians and the Japanese in particular are ever be a takeover target. Barguirdjian dismisses the idea. the [number-one] luxury consumers in the world.” “Mr. Graff said a long time ago that he brought up his son [François Graff] to be his Last spring, one Asian client purchased a 267-carat colored diamond necklace for successor,” he said. $30 million. As for whether the company is gearing up to be sold, he added: “I don’t think it’s The brand’s current space on Madison Avenue, at 800 square feet, is such that people in the cards — for now.”

Graff’s new store on Madison Avenue offers private rooms for clients.

A rendering of Graff’s Tokyo store which opens this week. BARGUIRDJIAN PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE BARGUIRDJIAN PHOTO BY

30 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM Accessories Report McDonald’s Rock-Solid Approach

By Sophia Chabbott from nabbing a rare pair of emeralds for a client to seeking out vintage designer pieces. imberly McDonald spends her But McDonald, who also consults for houses such as Kdays acquiring rare gemstones, Nicholas Varney and Zadora, wants to reach a broader commissioning jewelry suites and audience with one-of-a-kind jewelry that has a reason- hunting down estate pieces from able price point, so this year she created the Rockras the likes of Cartier and Harry line. The name derives from her love of yoga. Winston. Rockras jewelry focuses on stones not commonly As a jewelry curator seen in fi ne jewelry, such as geodes, druz and faceted for the past decade, quartz hardly smaller than a deck of cards. McDonald helps her “Not everyone wants to run around with fi ve-carat clients — including studs in their ears every day,” McDonald said. “My pri- celebrities, socialites vate clients want something totally unique and they Pieces from and the otherwise uber- don’t want the same thing [someone else has].” the Rockras wealthy — build collections to McDonald said women who aren’t necessarily seri- by Kimberly suit their tastes and lifestyles, ous fi ne jewelry collectors but have an interest in fash- McDonald collection.

ion want unique and approach- able jewelry. “It’s for professional women, the same woman who’s going to pay $3,500 for a gorgeous Chanel handbag,” she said. Wholesale prices range from $1,500 to $9,000. Fred Segal in Santa Monica, Calif., Jamie in Nashville, Forty Five Ten in Dallas and Magnum in Greenwich, Conn., have picked up the line. Some signature styles are a chrysocolla ring set with micro pavé green diamonds, drop ear- rings made of sliced geodes sur- rounded with pink sapphires and a thin gold cuff topped with a large stone such as a 240-carat quartz crystal or a 70-carat aquamarine. Because of the na- ture of the stones, each piece is one-of-a-kind. “I really do respect these stones,” McDonald said. “They are something amazing that no one can create.” WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 31 WWD.COM Accessories Boucheron Aims to Point, Click and Sell By Samantha Conti from the Boucheron archive with the click of a mouse, sprinkling diamonds, emeralds oucheron has a new cyberjewel in and rubies where they want. The fi rst Bits crown. design will be a chameleon brooch. On Wednesday, the French jew- The made-to-measure service eler will launch boucheron.com, a will be offered in conjunction with sales site offering the full range of Thierry Robert, Boucheron’s gem- fragrance, watches and jewelry, in- ologist, who will source gems and cluding made-to-measure and cus- help the customer match them with tomized items. settings. “This is a client-centric site and Bedos said that in a way the our mission is to serve,” said Jean- site is an extension of the service Christophe Bedos, Boucheron’s chief Boucheron provides to its big-spend- executive. “So many luxury jewelers ing customers. He said Boucheron staff- have the problem of ‘door phobia,’ when Here and below: Boucheron rings. ers regularly hop planes to see specifi c potential customers are afraid to walk into clients and take orders. Now, he said, shop- a store because they fear they’ll be judged. pers can buy Boucheron from their homes. This site offers privacy, anonym- ity and all of the services they would get in the store, and they don’t have to be afraid of asking too many questions.” Bedos said while the Internet used to be a “boys’ toy” for shop- ping, more women are buying from home and the company is hoping to catch that customer, as well. Although Boucheron is at the vanguard of jewelers taking their luxury offer on line, it is not the fi rst in Europe. British jeweler Boodles launched an e-com- merce site in early 2005, and the new site AstleyClarke.com offers fi ne jewelry and diamonds by de- signers including Pippa Small, Carolina Bucci and Flora Astor. De Beers, the diamond jew- elry fi rm, launched e-commerce offering a selection of its pieces in the U.S. only this year, while Tiffany has had an e-commerce site for several years. Bedos said the site will also offer wish lists, personal shop- ping and services for customers who want to save for specifi c purchases. It will also sell gift certifi cates. The site will offer moving displays of the jewels and a zoom function for close-up in- spections. There are options for hiding prices, creating price pa- rameters for clients on a budget, and a printable sizing chart for rings and bracelets. Bedos foresees some custom- ers using the site to research a purchase and then going into the store to try on items, return them or simply ask questions. In addition, a Paris hotline will be available to customers to arrange deliveries or answer questions. Every price point will be on offer — “Not just fi rst price or commercial lines, like some other jewelry retailers,” he said — and all deliveries will be made via UPS. Boucheron will deliver worldwide, and there are plans to extend the site to the U.S. and Japan. The customization service will allow clients to transform pieces

WE INVITE YOU TO CONTACT US TO LEARN HOW TO BECOME AN AUTHORIZED LONGCHAMP DISTRIBUTOR. LONGCHAMP USA, 435A US HIGHWAY 130 NORTH,YARDVILLE, NJ 08620, TEL: 609.581.5555, FAX: 609.581.5559 - WWW.LONGCHAMP.COM 32 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM Accessories Fabien Baron on Style, Luxury and Becoming a Brand abien Baron wants to be more than just a creative WWD: How has fashion changed since you entered the Fdirector behind some of the editorial and advertis- industry? ing images on the pages of fashion magazines. He wants F. B . : Fashion is borderline mass market. Everybody is to be on them. interested in fashion and has access to fashion because The creative director of French Vogue and founder of product categories have broken down into eyewear and Baron & Baron Inc., an advertising and marketing fi rm perfume up to couture. Branding has become the most with such clients as Balenciaga and Calvin Klein, is important thing for a fashion company to deal with. launching Fabien Baron Eyewear, a collection of wom- en’s and men’s sunglasses. WWD: How has the Internet changed fashion? In partnership with Modo Eyewear, the line will F. B . : There’s so much media now that it builds a need make its debut next week exclusively with for newness — new product and new people design- Luxottica Group’s new high-end eyewear ing more product. The same goes for stores. The stores chain, Ilori. The 14 styles, all handcrafted needs more product always. There needs to be newer in Japan, will wholesale from $120 to things all the time, so the rotation is very fast.

$160, with some higher-priced limited ZACK SECKLER BARON PHOTO BY edition styles. The collection will retail Fabien Baron Eyewear WWD: What does luxury mean to you? internationally in January at select re- Fabien F. B . : Luxury to me is based on craftsmanship, on quality tailers, including Barneys New York Baron F. B . : She’s sophisticated, knowledge- of products and execution of design. That to me is real and Colette in Paris. able about fashion and what quality and luxury. Putting gold on a product or fl ashy things and a Here, Baron discusses accessories, luxury are about. She has a certain el- high price tag is not luxury. True luxury is understated. luxury, logos and why good friends can egance that is understated. There are no It’s very subtle. make great business partners. logos overwhelming the design and that — Caroline Tell was very intentional. We feel like people WWD: What is a luxury in your life? are sick of logos. F. B . : Time. WWD: Why sunglasses? Fabien Baron: I’ve known Alessandro [Lanaro, WWD: How would you defi ne your personal WWD: What else are you up to? Modo’s president and chief executive offi cer] for style? F. B . : I’m still at French Vogue, still with Calvin Klein and a long time. We met years ago. This is his business and F. B . : A side of it comes from Paris and being French. I doing different projects with different clients. This is re- we talked casually and said, ‘We should do glasses.’ I like a classic type of elegance. But I also moved here and ally the excitement, this is new and interesting. thought it would be fun for me to try. It was more friend- so I want to be modern and forward. The combination of ship than business-based. the two makes my work what it is — simple, clean, bold, WWD: Would you like to design more accessories? modern with a sense of the classic. F. B . : We will be going into optical soon and I could also see WWD: How’d it go? myself designing handbags, but clothing would be hard. F.B.: It was a great experience. Sunglasses have always WWD: Why has your point of view been successful? Clothes are not objects and you really need a skill for it, been objects that intrigued me. It’s organic and very te- F. B . : I guess because there’s always a side of things I do technically. Of course I have some ideas. dious, though it doesn’t look it. One millimeter this way that’s inviting. It feels comfortable, not aggressive. I try and one millimeter that way and it turns into something to keep the elegance. It comes from my background. I WWD: Is this the beginning of the Fabien Baron lifestyle else, looks like something else, feels like something else. grew up in a city where every day you have a sense of brand? the past and history. You go to the Louvre, walk around F. B . : I don’t know. Like I said, this venture was based on WWD: What kind of woman wears your sunglasses? and it’s so beautiful that it’s anchored in me. friendship. So maybe I need more friends. Mauboussin Takes Manhattan By Miles Socha PARIS — Mauboussin, a 180-year-old French jeweler, plans to arrive on the U.S. market next September in grand style: planting a 7,000-square-foot, five- floor boutique at 714 Madison Avenue in Manhattan, complete with a choco- late “bar” and a VIP loft apartment. It’s the latest bold move for the Place Vendôme fi rm, which has parlayed its Mauboussin employs reputation for colored stones, and partic- geometric and ularly rings, into a fast-growing business. natural symbols in Owned by French entrepreneur its jewelry. Dominique Frémont, Mauboussin dou- bled its sales in the past three years to reach 25 million euros, or $34 million, in 2006. And it is aiming to top 60 million euros, or $81.6 million, by the end of 2011 as it pursues international expansion, said managing director Alain Némarq. “We decided fi ve years ago to become a fashion jeweler,” Némarq explained, detailing a change in lifestyles that has put women at the forefront of jewelry purchases. “She doesn’t choose something for eternity: She’s choosing something for her present emotion,” he explained. The forthcoming New York fl agship — which Némarq pre- fers to call a “temple” — will introduce American consumers to a brand that made waves in France by including prices in its advertising campaigns and by using grades of stones once considered unthinkable for a Place Vendôme house. Its fastest-growing price tier is between 750 euros and 3,000 euros, or $1,020 to $4,080, he noted. Mauboussin is the latest European jeweler to either open or expand stores on the stretch of Madison Avenue between East 60th and 70th Streets, joining the likes of Graff, Asprey, Chopard, Kwiat and Leviev. Némarq said he plans to commission a New York artist to envision the Madison Avenue store. Billing itself as an “artistic jeweler,” Mauboussin recently granted carte blanche to artist Aki Kuroda to decorate the Champs-Elysées fl agship here, slat- ed to reopen in November with a new look and a chocolate bar. France accounts for some 60 percent of Mauboussin’s busi- ness, generated at three Paris boutiques and some 120 other points of sale. Asia represents an important region, with 45 doors in Japan, including seven shop-in-shops, and the brand is already implanted in Russia. Product extensions within the fi rm include a new women’s fragrance, Emotion Divine, being introduced next month and a range of sunglasses, produced in-house, coming in April. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 33 WWD.COM Wal-Mart.com Men’s Brand Steps Up Offerings With Foot Care

NEW YORK — Men’s grooming feet and clove and thyme to pre- Industry sources estimate the is owned by the Estée Lauder Tests Strength brand Amenity is getting into vent bacteria. brand, which was introduced Cos. Inc., created the post in foot care. The 6.5-oz. spray, which is last year, will generate $2 mil- order to help maximize the The fi rm introduced last week the sixth introduction within lion in retail sales this year. brand’s North American busi- With Z.b.d. Line Amenity Foot Spray, a moisturiz- the Amenity brand, is priced — Matthew W. Evans ness and to expand the brand’s ing product that’s also designed at $32. global presence. As part of a By Sharon Edelson to help heal cracked skin. Amenity Foot Spray global expansion initiative, Dwight Schultheis, co-found- was first launched Sept. Flaherty will oversee sales NEW YORK — When it comes er of Amenity, noted that a pro- 1 at Space NK in SoHo and operations in both North to fashion, walmart.com al- prietary ingredient in the spray, here. On Friday, it reached BEAUTY BEAT America and Europe — in ways has been ahead of its big called Drieline, is “clinically Nordstrom’s new location markets such as the U.K. and sister, Wal-Mart Stores. proven to heal crevasses on the in Natick, Mass. It also is car- Bumble and bumble Appointment Scandinavia. For last year’s holiday sea- heels of the feet in 21 days.” The ried at The Sports Club/LA in NEW YORK — Bumble and Most recently, he was the son, walmart.com featured ingredient also is intended to Boston. bumble has appointed Marty vice president of salon and spa leather coats for $105.88 and reduce calluses. The Amenity assortment rang- Flaherty senior vice president development for Aveda. Before cashmere blend coats for Additionally, the spray con- es in price from $25 for Shave of global sales and operations, joining Aveda in 2002, Flaherty $99.66. Now it’s testing z.b.d. tains shea butter to help prevent Cream to $37 for After Shave a newly created position he will worked with Redken as well as designs, a collection that hits dryness and cracking, menthol Face Moisturizer. It is carried in take on Sept. 17. other L’Oréal-owned brands. on all the current trends, from to prevent wetness and to cool about 75 doors in the U.S. The hair care brand, which — Michelle Edgar sailor-stripe sweaters to tra- peze jackets. Wal-Mart stores, mean- while, have had some diffi - culty with apparel, delving too far into some trends too fast. Metro 7’s distribution, as of September, was reduced from 1,500 doors to its original KEEP ON 500 doors. The line is said to be doing well in its intended distribution. While Wal-Mart has said it would put more of SHINING a focus on basics going for- ward, its recently announced exclusive deal with Iconix to carry the Ocean Pacifi c and Op brands is seen as an open- ing salvo to teens and young adults. Op is often credited with spawning the surf and beach culture. Walmart.com always has featured higher-priced appar- el and accessories than Wal- Mart stores. Jewelry pushes the price envelope even fur- ther on walmart.com. The site has sold 2-carat diamond and 18-karat white gold rings for $8,000, and Journey necklaces with a total diamond weight of 2 carats set in 14-karat white gold for $4,500. Walmart.com has said its customers have higher incomes than shoppers in Wal-Mart stores. The 24-piece z.b.d. collec- tion is predominantly white, black and slate blue. The styles are simple — slim-cut pants, four-pocket jackets, square-neck dresses — with attention to details such as pleating and waist interest. There are also plenty of op- tions for this season’s focal point: the sleeve, with a puff- sleeve button-down blouse for $16.88 and a gigot-sleeve mock-neck T-shirt for $16.88. Bestsellers include a tweed swing jacket for $29.99; a square-neck silver-and-black satin leopard-print dress, $24.88, and double-knit slim- cut pants, $22.88. Introducing “At this time, we’re testing ® this offering only online at the new TIMEX walmart.com,” said a spokes- woman for the Web site. “We Diamond Collection. often pilot merchandise in Where fashion meets function. this manner across a variety of categories on our site. We’ll Genuine, hand-selected continue to evaluate this line diamonds on the outside. of merchandise and gauge customer feedback over the Genuine Timex on the inside. coming months.” Wal-Mart’s online busi- ness has been estimated at between $1 billion and $2 billion. The Web site was set up in 2000 as a stand-alone company and is based in Brisbane, Calif., far from Wal- www.timex.com Mart Stores’ headquarters in ©2007 Timex Corporation. TIMEX is a registered trademark and X CIRCLE LOGO is a trademark of Timex Corporation. Bentonville, Ark. 34 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM Children’s Wear Report London Calling Little Luxury Shoppers

By Lucie Greene A look from LittleFashionGallery.com. LONDON — London kids are getting a taste for luxury. In the last few months, two new luxury e-tailers, AlexandAlexa.com and LittleFashionGallery.com, have launched upscale online boutiques, while Harrods has revamped its children’s wear department, adding a space devoted entirely to international designer diffusion rang- es. The market is clearly having a growth spurt. “The children’s wear business has completely changed here over the last six years, from brands you had never heard of to every designer adult label li- censing children’s collections. It’s become huge,” said Gillian Lee, children’s wear buyer at Harrods. In May, the store launched a 2,000-square-foot space for international designer children’s brands, housing collections by Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, Ralph Lauren, Armani and Dior against a new-look, sophisti- cated minimalist interior. “The department has totally exceeded our expecta- tions in terms of the business. We are talking about big Harrods’ new children’s area. sums of money,” said Lee, adding that already popular pieces, such as the beige cutout dress from the newly launched Chloé children’s range, had waiting lists. “It’s really fueled by the fact that the brands are al- ready big brands anyway. They are lifestyles, and so buy- ing the children’s wear is like buying into another part of that,” said Lee. Online, it’s a similar story. “Online shopping is forecast to grow 10 times more than the high street this year,” said Alex Theophamous, founder and director of upscale retailer AlexandAlexa. com, based here and launched last month. “The U.K. is Europe’s biggest online shopping mar- ket. If you look at the women’s market, the growth is all coming from online operators. These people all have children. It makes sense that if you are buying Ralph Lauren’s clothing, you will want your children to wear it also,” he said. “Another factor is that the women in the U.K. are having children much later, and so have a higher income when they do so. They have consumers are also driven by aspirational the money to spend.” purchasing, and they have a choice in how Theophamous predicted the Web site’s annual turn- much they want to spend, as items on the over within fi ve years will be 5 million pounds, or $10 site range from about 10 pounds ($20.28) to million at current exchange, annually. Next year, he about 200 pounds ($403). said the brand would look at expansion to Russia, the “You have people who want to buy the U.S. and the Middle East. brand. You have people also who aspire “The luxury segment of the market is defi nitely ex- to that brand. A child’s T-shirt is cheaper Above and left: AlexandAlexa.com offers tending,” said Marie Soudre-Richard, chief executive than the handbag. You could buy a whole high-end product from brands such as offi cer at LittleFashionGallery.com. The company, also designer outfi t for 200 pounds ($403) for Roberto Cavalli. based here, launched online last November, and since a child.” then, Soudre-Richard said sales have grown twentyfold. While most agree that children are be- The site carries 20 designer brands including Antik coming brand-savvy at a younger age, the Net-a-porter. We needed to talk in that Batik, AirdeJe and Nume, and next year is turning its main consumer group is parents. Marketing language,” added Soudre-Richard. attention to expansion into Italy and the U.S. strategies for both AlexandAlexa.com and Meanwhile AlexandAlexa.com Each retailer said that alongside regular luxury con- LittleFashionGallery.com are directed at employs similar sophisticated life- sumers, a large proportion of their market is gift-ori- fashion-conscious luxury spenders. style-inspired photography, tapping ented. “My client sees her children as a continuation of how established stylist Nicky Lowe to combine different “You are more likely in some ways to buy luxury she is dressed. She buys Dries Van Noten for herself, brands into complete looks for its catalogue, and feting children’s wear if you are a godparent or aunt,” said she wants something similar for her children: niche and its recent launch with a celebrity party. The site sells Theophamous. AlexandAlexa.com offers a children’s wear high-end,” said Soudre-Richard. children’s wear labels including Cacharel, Little Paul & gift-listing registry for baby showers, birthdays and christen- LittleFashionGallery.com’s images have all been shot Joe, Quincy and Maan. ings. Prices on the site retail from about 15 pounds ($30.42) by established fashion photographers in a fashion edito- Theophamous concluded: “A lot of our customers are to 150 pounds ($304.25). Similarly, LittleFashionGallery.com rial style. The Web site also has a separate magazine sec- Net-a-porter shoppers who haven’t had access to the chil- offers a gift-wrapping delivery service. tion devoted to lifestyle, expert advice, interiors, design dren’s wear equivalent before. Buying these collections Lee said a large proportion of London children’s wear and shopping. “My customer reads Vogue and shops at allows you to extend the fantasy through your children.”

Neige’s spring 2008 collection, featuring pieces from Signature. Neige Signs On a New Collection By Cecily Hall each season, too. It’s a great pairing.” to the design and craftsmanship of each Merchandise in the collection whole- piece,’’ Franco said, adding that fab- eige has found its signature style. sales from $14 to $64. Pieces are avail- rics come from European mills and the N The Irvine, Calif.-based chil- able for girls only, in sizes 18M to 12Y. clothes are made in California. dren’s wear brand, founded by former Neige’s original line, launched for For spring 2008, which will reach re- Vera Wang designer Adrienne Catrina, spring 2005, caters to girls and boys. tailers in January, Neige features sun- launched its second collection, called Catrina developed the brand in 2003 dresses in Liberty fabric, layered over Signature, at the ENK Children’s Club and spent the year testing an assort- soft cotton-Modal Ts and tanks; bloomer show in New York in July. The collec- ment of items after deciding she wanted shorts, and baby-doll dresses for girls tion refl ects the brand’s distinctive style to start her own children’s wear busi- in sizes 18M to 12Y. Neige’s boys’ col- and incorporates essential items into ness. After seeing an opportunity in the lection, which launched in January, of- children’s wardrobes, such as cotton marketplace for modern, age-appropri- fers cotton twill jackets; tailored shorts blouses, tank tops, T-shirts and linen- ate children’s clothing, Catrina decided in linen and cotton plaid, and striped cotton jackets. to design a collection that eliminated cotton shirts in sizes 2T to 7. Wholesale “This is the bread and butter of the frills, bows and lace and focused on sim- prices range from $31 to $86. business,” said Paula Franco, director plicity and sophistication. The name it- Franco declined to disclose annual of sales and marketing. “The brand had self, which means “snow” in French, is sales for the company. been interested in introducing a line intended to represent the collection’s Neige is available at Barneys New that’s available all year long. Many of the purity, innocence and playfulness. York, Neiman Marcus, Holt Renfrew and pieces can fi t into the original collection “We hold extremely high standards in specialty boutiques worldwide.

36 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM Citizens of Humanity Adds Goldschmied’s GoldSign Just Cavalli Opens in NYC By Khanh T.L. Tran to where it should be.” “The merger of the two companies is giving By Luisa Zargani LOS ANGELES — Denim pioneers Jerome Dahan to both a bigger platform,” said Goldschmied, and Adriano Goldschmied believe in the power 63. “The consequence is going to be scary for our urved walls, mirrored counters and backlit glass walls contrib- of two. competition.” Cute to the spaceship design and futuristic mood of the fi rst Just In a bid to boost their international business As consumers have been opting for dresses Cavalli boutique in New York, which opened Friday. and combine their technical prowess amid wan- and other sportswear instead of jeans costing as Located on Fifth Avenue next to the Gucci store and covering ing momentum in the U.S. premium denim mar- much as $300, denim labels are compelled to push 4,527 square feet on two fl oors, the boutique was designed by Italian ket, Dahan’s Citizens of Humanity has acquired the envelope by emphasizing fashion and moving architect Italo Rota, who also worked on the Just Cavalli store in Goldschmied’s GoldSign for an undisclosed sum. away from the fi ve-pocket jean as a commodity. Milan’s Via Spiga, which opened two years ago. Joining Citizens as a partner and executive vice The deal also indicates the premium denim sector “I adore airy stores with a lot of light, because they enhance the president of product development, could continue its evolution through beauty of the prints and the style of the clothes,” said Roberto Cavalli, Goldschmied will continue to design a series of mergers, acquisitions or referring to the use of glass and lighting in the new store. GoldSign as a separate brand. Dahan closures. The most prominent exam- Take as examples the store’s light beams and fi ber-optic light ter- will remain chief executive offi cer, ple was Greensboro, N.C.-based VF minals that create a “starlit galaxy” on the ceiling, or the oversize president and designer of Citizens. Corp.’s decision announced in July to chandelier shaped as a snake — an iconic Cavalli image — that domi- GoldSign, the smaller of the com- acquire Seven For All Mankind, also nates the entrance. The designer was especially enthusiastic about panies, has led the denim pack with based in Vernon, for an estimated innovations such as metallic coating $775 million. on jeans and stretch leather pants. Dahan founded Seven in 2000 with Citizens is an established business Peter Koral and Michael Glasser, be- that tallied $90 million in wholesale fore leaving two years later to start sales in 2006. Citizens with Glasser in 2003. Glasser Dahan and Goldschmied estimate now heads his own premium denim the combined company will generate label called Rich & Skinny, based in $150 million at wholesale in 2008, up Santa Monica, Calif. from $120 million combined in 2007. In February 2006, Citizens agreed In addition to acquiring Los to a partnership with Berkshire Angeles-based GoldSign, Citizens as- Jerome Dahan and Partners to give the Boston-based sumed ownership of Goldschmied’s Adriano Goldschmied private equity firm a 62.5 percent washhouse in Vernon, Calif., Laundry stake in it. The merger of Citizens Atelier, which Goldschmied spent $1 million and GoldSign has reduced Berkshire’s stake, said to start simultaneously with his label in 2005. Gary Freedman, Citizens’ lawyer who crafted the Citizens, based in Huntington Park, Calif., has its deal with GoldSign. Declining to reveal the new own laundry that produces runs for as large as percentage of Berkshire’s holdings in Citizens, 120,000 units. The company said Laundry Atelier Freedman said Berkshire remains a majority will enable it to develop proprietary processes shareholder and Dahan and Goldschmied are mi- and special dyes in a laboratory-like setting. nority owners. “We have enough creativity to separate both Freedman said Citizens and GoldSign will de- brands,” said Dahan, 47, noting that the fi rst col- velop more products for the Japanese market, lection refl ecting the shared sources will launch where GoldSign has a strong business. Moreover, next fall. “The denim industry has been very com- he said Citizens will open its fi rst offi ce and show- mercial and is going in the wrong direction. [The room in Europe in Milan this month, and explore deal] will allow us to bring the direction of denim opening another offi ce in Europe.

Style goes bigger.

Views of the Just Cavalli boutique in New York.

the opening of the store, given his passion for all things American and his most recent efforts to differentiate the Just Cavalli line, which was launched in 1997 as a younger denim-based collection. “I really care about this project. As my signature line has been evolv- ing into a more sophisticated brand, Just Cavalli is more and more simi- lar to what the Roberto Cavalli line was originally,” said the designer. Cavalli has been steering the Just Cavalli collection to become a more complete and sartorial line, with more daywear pieces, moving away from the young, sexy, free-spirited rock ’n’ roll theme of the past. The designer underscored the commercial value of the Just Cavalli line, noting sales have been growing 25 percent each season. For the opening Friday, Cavalli tapped English light designer and set decorator Simon Costin. LED lighting effects and fl oral decorations were devised by Costin in line with the futuristic and extraterrestrial concept of the design project. He mixed real fl ow- ers with fabric ones in glass and steel vases especially designed for Flatotel offers the best of both worlds - the intimate charm and the store. style of a boutique hotel, plus the largest guestrooms in the city. Cavalli, who manages two Just Cavalli Cafés and Restaurants in Located in the heart of Midtown just steps from Fifth Avenue, Milan, said he is aiming to open a restaurant in New York. The up- coming boutique in Paris, which will open at the end of September, Rockefeller Center and Broadway. Dine on superb Italian cuisine at I NTIMATE TAILORED C OSMOPOLITAN our renowned Moda restaurant and celebrate special events in our will also feature a small restaurant. There are currently 26 Just Cavalli boutiques around the world and next year the company outdoor area. Choose Flatotel for business or pleasure. And enjoy A New York City Hotel plans to open boutiques in Boca Raton, Fla.; San Diego; Atlantic the Big Apple from a hotel that’s big on style and space. City, N.J.; Beijing, and Macau. The designer said he is in talks to open a Just Cavalli boutique in London, as well. 135 West 52nd Street ~ Reservations at 212.887.9400 ~ 1.800.FLATOTEL ~ www.flatotel.com There are fi ve Just Cavalli boutiques in the U.S., and the collec- tion is available at more than 270 points of sale in America, includ- CALL TODAY AND MENTION AD CODE WWD FOR SPECIAL OFFERS. ing Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom. Just Cavalli is

CITIZENS OF HUMANITY PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE; CAVALLI BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT BY CAVALLI TYLER BOYE; CITIZENS OF HUMANITY PHOTO BY produced under license by IT Holding’s manufacturing arm, Ittierre. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 37 WWD.COM

an exclusive behind-the-scenes view of an exciting photo shoot, especially one whose mission was to raise global awareness for an important cause. What’s especially MEMO PAD compelling is to hear how the disease has touched the lives of everyone in the video.” BIG PUSH: Fashion Targets Breast Cancer, the charitable Virtually every publishing house was approached to initiative from the Council of Fashion Designers of provide pro bono ad space, according to the spokesman, America/CFDA Foundation, has joined forces with and “just about every fashion and lifestyle magazine online retailer Net-a-porter to expand the initiative on a has committed.” Examples include Vogue, In Style and global scale. Harper’s Bazaar. The pro bono ad space so far totals In addition, FTBC Worldwide is shifting its focus approximately more than $3 million. — Amy Wicks from one month to an entire year. To raise money for the cause, limited edition FTBC-branded items will CORRECTIONS: American Media Inc.’s fi scal-year earnings be sold throughout the year, beginning with a Ralph ending March 31 showed a net loss of $343.8 million, Lauren-designed polo shirt that will be available for compared with $160.9 million the year before. The purchase on Net-a-porter.com, exclusively. The shirt operating loss also rose, to $261.1 million, compared costs $75 and more products will be unveiled in the with $96.8 million the year before. These numbers were coming months from designers including Rachel Roy, incorrect in a Memo Pad item on page 39, Tuesday. Diane von Furstenberg and Oscar de la Renta. The net Due to a miscommunication, a Memo Pad item proceeds from all items purchased, whether in the Friday misstated former Details editor Genevieve Roth’s U.S. or abroad, will stay in the customer’s country. The The Fashion Targets Breast Cancer ad campaign. destination. She is now a freelance editor, currently goal, according to a spokesman, is to raise more than at Glamour. $2 million after one year. Starting today, Style.com will unveil a behind-the-scenes look at the photo shoot for the Ralph Lauren polo shirt, worn by models such as Daria Werbowy, Lily Cole and Lily Donaldson, all of whom donated their time for the cause. Patrick Demarchelier shot the ad campaign and David Lipman served as creative director. The Web site also will feature an FTBC ad that will lead readers to a microsite, hosted by Net-a-porter. The site will include information on breast cancer survivors and resources to become more educated on the issue. Style.com executive editor Nicole Phelps said, “We liked the idea of presenting to our audience Permira Increases Stake in Valentino To Estimated 97% By Amanda Kaiser MILAN — European private equity group Permira Holdings wrapped up its tender offer for Valentino Fashion Group SpA on Friday, lifting its stake in the Italian fashion company to about 97 percent, based on pre- She needs liminary tabulations. Permira’s takeover vehicle, Red & Black Lux Sarl, wants to delist VFG from the Milan Stock Exchange, so it will pursue a re- sidual offer and buy out the re- maining shareholders. Before launching its ten- HERFUR der offer in July, Permira had already purchased about 60.2 percent of VFG from the Italian company’s former sharehold- more than you do ers, namely the Marzotto fam- ily and VFG chairman Antonio Favrin. Please choose compassion Permira offered all VFG shareholders 35 euros a share, as your fashion. or $47.81 at current exchange. At that price, Permira’s price tag for 100 percent of VFG will be about 2.6 billion euros, or $3.55 billion. The private equity fund, which outbid rival Carlyle Group for control of VFG, has not yet outlined a strategic plan for the fashion company. VFG owns the Valentino fash- ion house, Hugo Boss AG and holds licensing deals for the M humanesociety.org/furfree Missoni and Marlboro Classics brands. ©2007 The HSUS. All rights reserved. VFG is still digesting the news of designer Valentino Garavani’s retirement from the house he founded 45 years ago and the naming of Alessandra Facchinetti as creative director. 38 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM Teaching ‘Balancing’ Techniques

By Carla O’Connor call to her landed our fi rst client. WWD: What do clients say the biggest improvement is I then trained and hired other corporate-savvy yogis after working with you? ith BlackBerries buzzing and cell phones ringing, to help me serve clients, and later developed our train- T.G.: We’ve gotten great feedback. They’ve told us that Wnot to mention soccer mom responsibilities and ing program. The company’s growth was easily managed Balance Integration’s programs have helped their em- planes to catch for business travel, trying to balance one’s by a program manager and myself for quite a while, al- ployees balance their personal and professional lives personal life with work is becoming harder and more though now we have grown into a staff of 10. We also through a creative and fun approach that’s focused pressured. No downtime for relaxation? Think again. count over 150 corporate trained teachers and facilita- and grounded. We’ve heard that companies have got- Tevis Gale integrated her love of yoga and medita- tors in our ranks and maintain a consulting presence ten overwhelming positive feedback from employees tion with her experiences in business and corporate that serves the East Coast out of New York, the West who felt that Balance Integration provided a way for culture to create Balance Integration, which offers re- Coast out of Los Angeles and San Francisco and the them to reduce stress and create an environment that laxation and centering practices and tools to corpora- mid-states out of Colorado. gives people an opportunity to fi nd balance in the midst tions throughout the country to help employees balance of their busy workdays, as well as give them a morale their work and personal lives. WWD spoke to Gale about WWD: What is your background? boost. Others who use our program as an ongoing tool her company, its beginnings and how what she teaches T.G.: After earning a global M.B.A., I worked in global have said employees feel it’s a great perk and don’t un- impacts the work life of her clients’ employees. marketing and [held] strategic roles for such companies derstand why everyone doesn’t take advantage of the as Coca-Cola, UPS, AOL and IBM. I was living my dream yoga classes and other offerings. WWD: What is Balance Integration? of country-hopping, putting together multimillion dollar Tevis Gale: Balance Integration offers on-site work- deals and managing business development teams across shops that address employee engagement so they feel the Western Hemisphere. Fulfi lling that dream simply Tevis Gale better, think better and lead better. The gave way to my current passion, rein- workshops range from business creativ- tegrating the human being into corpo- ity to on-site yoga and meditation. They rate America. emphasize employee engagement and contribution with practical tools to im- WWD: How do your clients hear mediately enhance work and life. Our about you? clients include Google, Yahoo, MTV, T.G.: Until now, it has been com- Disney, White & Case, AOL, Viacom, pletely word of mouth. Just this year Deutsche Bank and Chanel, and our we began to invest in public relations programs fi t into any corporate culture. to get out the message of the win-win Some clients put us into action à la of engagement at work. We have just carte to complement a specifi c initiative hired our fi rst sales person and an- or support a specifi c team, while others A MONTHLY REPORT ticipate more growth. use our programs as an ongoing work- HR effectiveness tool. WWD: What makes Balance Integration different from other busi- WWD: How did the idea for the business come about? nesses that offer similar services? T.G.: In the fall of 2001, after 13 years of working in cor- T.G.: We address the human equation of corporations. porate America, I started to wonder why so many people After all, what are corporations other than groups of hate their jobs. Looking around me, it was clear who human beings organized around achieving a mutual ob- overengaged to the point of burnout and who had dif- jective? The adversarial relationship between work and fi culty engaging at all. life serves no one and simply leads to the same relation- In both cases, I saw there lacked a sense of centered- ship between employee and employer. ness in the midst of daily mayhem. I wondered how we We saw that there are plenty of yoga studios that can can succeed, and [still] have a great day at work. I wasn’t send a teacher to a company [and] plenty of coaching sure that there was any one answer for everyone, but I consultants to provide mentorship to an executive team, knew a couple of tools that would help. There was no but we also saw that no one was making these tools rel- doubt that my own yoga, meditation and self-growth ef- evant to work-day challenges and available to the mass forts had made my success sustainable. population in corporate America. Ceo’s and vice presi- dents might have access to coaching or can attend pricey WWD: How did the business get to where it is now? think tanks with top business gurus. They have a team of T.G.: Robin Eletto, now vice president of human re- people to keep their big picture functioning. The normal sources at Disney Publishing, ran human resources at folks need help with managing it all just as much, per- my last employer. When we exchanged views on this haps even more. Balance Integration has taken the tools aspect of the human element in corporations, she told one might get through executive privileges and created me to let her know the minute I was ready to put pro- a model to make them available to the greater popula- gramming together to tackle it, and several months and tions in corporate America…the soccer moms, the PTA lots of study and program design hours later, one phone dads, the success-obsessed singletons. Considerations for Better Background Checks

NEW YORK — Executives faced with increasing con- need to make sure that they have a form that asks if Personality tests are still used by many companies cerns over the screening process for potential employ- an applicant has been convicted of a crime, where during the hiring process, as well. There have, how- ees need to make better use of the tools already avail- they have lived, what training or education they have, ever, been some discrimination allegations under the able to them, experts said. who they worked for and why they left, said Connie Americans With Disabilities Act regarding certain Labor and employment attorneys say that the prop- Bertram, partner in the labor and employment prac- kinds of personality tests. Companies need to make er screening of employees is becoming an increasing tice at Winston Strawn in Washington. sure they do the due diligence in selecting a reputable problem faced by many companies. Some of the prob- Although it sounds rudimentary, checking refer- test without biases, Brenneman said. lems include making a hire that turns out to be the ences, educational institution attendance and other “An employer shouldn’t do their own personality “wrong fi t,” hiring someone who is not qualifi ed for the information can reveal an employee’s honesty level test or use an unknown one. It should be one that’s position and hiring people who are unproductive. very quickly. “It’s astonishing how often potential em- been evaluated,” she said. While there are many ways to address the problem, ployees pad their résumé to make themselves look bet- The key to integrating any screening process into experts say that, overall, it is important to take a hard ter,” Brenneman said. your hiring procedure, whether it’s a criminal back- look fi rst at the screening processes to determine how Another screening step that can be overlooked is a ground check or personality test, is to make sure every to make better use of the existing information. criminal background check and credit report, sources applicant is treated consistently, Bertram said. That “The single most important thing an employer said. These searches are particularly important in any can be achieved by ensuring that the right people are should do is take the hiring process seriously. Making position where security is an issue, such as people involved in the hiring process, she said. the wrong hire, whether someone proves to be unpro- who handle money, have access to sensitive informa- More and more employers are also integrating a ductive or doesn’t like the job, can be very costly,” said tion, will be responsible for or be around children or Google search or some other kind of Internet check Debbie Brenneman, partner in the labor and employ- are required to drive as part of their job. into hiring, sources said. ment group at Thompson Hines in Ohio. Replacing an “My clients sometimes ask me, ‘Should we do a crim- “You’d be shocked at what you can fi nd if you employee who leaves or an inappropriate hire can cost inal background check?’ My next question is, what is the Google a person,” Slobodien said. “It will become part as much as twice the position’s annual payroll. job? If they’re handling money, you really should spend of the hiring process to do it, but a surprising number “Unfortunately, the bottom line is there’s no way to the cost,” Slobodien said. Background checks can cost of people don’t do it yet.” totally know. In some sense, you’re just going on faith,” $100 or less if you run enough at a time, he said. For employers that are choosing to Google prospective said Andrew Slobodien, a partner at Wildman Harrold Screening employees this way offers employers employees, it is important to treat information obtained in Chicago. concrete information, but it is important to consult with a grain of salt. It is also key to evaluate the type of The fi rst step employers need to take is to make bet- legal counsel to make sure that applicants have been information that can be obtained through an Internet ter use of the information they already have through properly notifi ed and the information obtained doesn’t search and what to do with it, cautioned some lawyers. employment applications, sources said. Businesses violate their rights. — Liza Casabona Talent has always been in fashion.

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New York Los Angeles San Francisco Orange County Seattle Boston London 212.966.4426 310.587.2772 415.989.2424 949.258.6540 206.340.0247 978.475.3614 +44 20 7025 8057 40 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM Fine Jewelry in Counterfeit Crosshairs

By Liza Casabona and Sophia Chabbott Between October 2003 and January 2005, Tiffany filed a s eagle-eyed knockoff artists are already no doubt transmitting group of six lawsuits against AInternet images from the runways to factories in China, there Overstock.com for alleged in- is a new sector being targeted for counterfeits: fine jewelry. China is real. As their fringements of some of its From Tiffany to Gucci, Van Cleef & Arpels to David Yurman, “ bracelet and necklace de- counterfeiting is becoming a plague for brands in the sector. signs. A source said that litiga- Long a thorn in the side of apparel and accessories companies, production capability tion unrelated to that involving copycat products — produced mainly in China — are now fl ooding Overstockjewelry.com was re- the market in the fi ne jewelry arena as the industry becomes more gets better and better solved. brand-driven by way of high-profi le marketing campaigns. It’s a Judith Ripka ceo Ronald J. problem that has no simple solution except vigilance and the courts. and their quality gets Berk said at any given time the fi rm Brands have become much more aggressive in suing the distributors has up to a dozen lawsuits pending and retailers of counterfeit products, since jewelry design, unlike ap- better and better, against copyright infringers. parel, is protected by copyright law. But it can be an expensive process “We’re fairly successful with knock- chasing down mom-and-pop retailers or e-tailers, and even more costly their ability to copy ing mom and pops out of the knockoff when giant fi rms like eBay are taken on, as in a business,” he said. “Because the costs of lit- pending case involving Tiffany. jewelry gets better. igation are extreme, they’ll usually settle.” Last week, Cartier, Cartier International NV, — Paul Blum, David Yurman” Ripka requires the offenders to forfeit the Cartier Creation Studio, Van Cleef & Arpels goods and their books, pay Ripka the profi ts SA, Van Cleef & Arpels Inc., Van Cleef & Arpels earned from them and also name the distributor Distribution Inc., Gucci America Inc. and Bulgari that supplied the goods. SpA as plaintiffs, fi led suit in Manhattan federal In a raid in May 2006, federal marshals confi scat- court against Elena Castaneda, who does business ed more than 100 allegedly counterfeit Judith Ripka as Overstockjeweler.com. Castaneda could not be jewelry pieces from four companies. reached for comment. “It’s a chronic problem,” Berk said. “Until political- In court documents, the jewelry brands allege ly it’s solved, we’re going to run into this. It’s part of the Overstockjeweler.com sells jewelry and watches Chinese culture to copy.” that it claims are “inspired by,” “copies of,” “repli- Berk has contacted other large jewelry brands in order to cas of ” and “knockoffs of ” a laundry list of jewelry band together against the imitators. designers, including the defendants in the case, as “Without having the big boys leading it, it’s harder for well as Chanel, Hermès and David Yurman. the little boys to take it on,” he said. The lawsuit was fi led for infringements that in- Private investigator Andrew Oberfeldt said: “Most cluded trademarks of Cartier, Van Cleef, Gucci and of the jewelry I see [during raids] is some type of fake Bulgari, as well as Van Cleef’s Alhambra design and silver, unless it’s trying to be white platinum. There’s Gucci’s horse-bit pattern. not as much gold jewelry faked and not as much bejew- In all, the suit includes 45 counts of trademark eled jewelry. We’re talking about bracelets, earrings and infringement, false designation of origin, false ad- necklaces without jewels where the name or symbol is vertising, trademark dilution, copyright infringe- prevalent.” ment, design patent infringement and trade dress Clockwise from right: Oberfeldt works for a number of luxury brand owners infringement. Cartier necklaces, Gucci doing investigations and enforcement work. The defendants asked the court for an injunc- rings, Van Cleef & Arpels tion, damages and trial costs. They also asked the necklaces and earrings court to order Overstockjeweler.com to recall all from David Yurman the allegedly infringing items, as well as adver- are among the jewelry tising and promotional material. targeted by infringers. This is the second lawsuit filed against Overstockjeweler.com this year. In February, David Yurman fi led suit in Manhattan federal court in a case that is pending. Jewelry fakes can range from inexpensive base metal bracelets, necklaces and rings to 14-karat gold and semiprecious gemstones and sometimes The small size of jewelry items also complicates enforcement efforts for brands. small diamonds. The jewelry is made mostly in China, Fake necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings don’t typically get shipped into the U.S. but India and Italy have also been cited as places where via ports where customs can unearth them, said a spokeswoman for one luxury jew- the merchandise is manufactured. Italy is known to pro- elry brand. Items are either air-freighted in, or in some cases, carried into the coun- duce higher-quality pieces, which show up everywhere from try by an individual. local neighborhood jewelers to Web sites. It can also be diffi cult to gain the sympathy of enforcement offi cials, the spokes- Protecting a piece of jewelry from intellectual property infringe- woman said. “On a sliding scale of safety, jewelry knockoffs are at the bottom.” ment is different than protecting apparel. The primary protection Large companies aren’t the only ones with worries. Smaller designer jewelry available for apparel is trademark protection. Any item bearing an il- companies such as Faraone Mennella have been fi ghting to protect its designs. legitimate version of a company trademark is considered a counterfeit. On Sept. 5, the U.S. Patent & Trademark Offi ce granted a patent to indepen- But not all pieces of jewelry have a trademark on them. Copying the dent jewelry designer Sonya Ooten for her signature crocheted metal Cosmos look of a necklace or bracelet by a well-known brand without expressly earrings. The patent expires in 2021. Ooten has over a dozen copyrights and pat- stating it is made by that brand is a more understated and devious way of ents on her signature designs and has a utility patent pending on her signature committing counterfeiting in the jewelry business, said Louis Ederer, an metal crochet jewelry process. attorney with Arnold & Porter. Ederer represents several jewelry brands. Van Cleef & Arpels spoke with WWD recently about the number of cases it has David Yurman fi les copyrights on nearly every collection of jew- fi led to protect its Alhambra jewelry line. The company said it has fi led more than elry it creates — even the cuts of the gemstones are copyrighted. The 10 lawsuits in the last year in federal courts and sent countless cease-and-desist let- David Yurman cushion cut is the company’s exclusive diamond cut, ters to infringers of the distinctive clover motif. for example. Since then, the company has stepped up efforts to monitor trade shows, said a “This is a major initiative for this company,” said Yurman chief ex- company spokeswoman. Undercover investigators will visit trade shows to root out ecutive offi cer Paul Blum, who blamed the problem on factories in wholesalers selling infringing jewelry. The tactic helps stop the items from reaching China that have improved their capability to produce fakes, crossing points of sale. over copyright and counterfeit laws. “China is real. As their production John Hardy has also been very aggressive in protecting its intellectual property. capability gets better and better and their quality gets better and better, “The main intellectual property challenge we have is with copyright and trade- their ability to copy jewelry gets better.” mark infringers who copy our jewelry designs and use our name to sell poor quality Blum called for better copyright law in China. In the U.S., jewelry is eligible for replicas,” said Damien Dernoncourt, ceo of John Hardy. protection based on how it looks. Unlike apparel and handbags, jewelry is already The infringing products that John Hardy encounters come primarily from China, subject to copyright protection — as a work of art if it is original enough and in some Thailand and Indonesia and are sold through the Internet or through wholesalers and cases to a design patent if it is unique enough. The current effort being spearheaded street vendors in the U.S., Dernoncourt said. in Congress by the Council of Fashion Designers of America seeks to extend copyright “Our brand is more and more well known and our products are beautiful and suc- protections to apparel designs, similar to those available already on some jewelry. cessful, therefore there are more and more infringers,” he said. Counterfeits of jewelry are not declining, and if anything are increasing, said In May, the company obtained a judgment for damages of $1.3 million in a law- Susan Scafi di, a visiting law professor at New York University and author of the blog suit fi led against an alleged infringer in federal court in Manhattan. The case was Counterfeit Chic that tracks intellectual property issues in the fashion industry. fi led against Jay Friedman, who did business as RealImposters. In June, the company “The venues for the sale of counterfeit jewelry are different,” Scafi di said. “There settled a case against Sam Moon out of court for an undisclosed sum, according to are not so many in black plastic bags on the street. They are more likely to be in shops company statements. or somewhere more discreet. You see them with other things as well, and you see a lot One of the most watched jewelry lawsuits in recent years is Tiffany’s pending law- more online, a lot of replica sites.” suit against eBay. The case, originally fi led in 2004, has been closely followed by jew- Tiffany & Co.’s problem with copies is mostly with the fi rm’s silver collection. The elry and apparel brand holders for its potential to set precedent regarding infringe- company has encountered fake 1837 pieces, as well as Elsa Peretti styles, namely the ments online. The lawsuit is set to go to trial in October. designer’s signature heart. “We all have a common goal here,” said Yurman’s Blum. “We think it’s ex- “It’s a growing concern,” said Linda Buckley, vice president of worldwide public tremely dangerous for the brand, the business and the industry. We’re going after relations for Tiffany. “The Internet has fueled a lot of it.” these guys.” 4QFDJBM
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MOM2B Tradeshow Glamourmom® pure t Bella Band | Bravado! | Japanese Weekend | Mama Spanx | MaMe | Maternal America

Melinda G | Noppies | Nummies | OiOi | Olian | Pouch | Prego | pure t | Ripe

Bella Band Noppies

A New View MALOY BY MARCY PHOTO Prego Maternity Japanese Weekend expect the best

Olian

Pouch

pure t

Showroom Mama Spanx 347 West 36th Street Suite 1602 New York, NY 10018 Armanda Texidor Maternal America Call for an Appointment T: 212.643.9547 F: 212.643.1131 E: [email protected] 4QFDJBM
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With new, boutique lines coming out, expect to this season. “Navy is also big, and jewel tones.” Color see a real diversity in styles, patterns and colors Armanda Texidor, president of A New View Maternity, by Number in the upcoming seasons, according to Kristen cites orange and green as important colors for spring, Tait, partner in MOM2B Tradeshow. while grey, purple and brown will have a major presence. Retro “hippy” looks with Touches of gold and turquoise can also be seen in florals and embroidery, many designs. safari looks with pocket For Noppies, light blue, sand, grey, light olive, peach pants and shorts, earthy and white are the primary color palate. colors mixed with touches In the nursing category, pink seems to be the desired of metallic, and romantic color for spring. looks with soft color For Bravado! Designs, shades of coral are at the top palettes and flowy fabrics of their customer wish list for spring. are featured in the spring Chocolate is strong for fall, as well 2008 designs, according as combinations of neutral colors. to Cathe Verdusco, “Mocha with a touch of honey, for owner of West Coast example,” said Kathryn From, Maternity. “We have ceo and co-owner. Japanese also seen a lot of For Q-T, prints are gaining Weekend bold, graphic prints Glamourmom® in popularity with their floral photo by: in primary colors animal-print pattern a must-have Marcy Maloy and black and white.” for customers. Song Pardue, president, Pickles and For Glamourmom®, floral prints Ice Cream agreed that black is still hot Bravado! Designs and nautical stripes are big.

Below the Over the ShoulderChic Belt When it comes to diaper bags, it’s not While dresses are just what’s inside that counts. still the rage for For Mia Bossi, the Maria spring, bottoms Collection is their best-selling are coming back model. “It’s a large, square bag, in a big way. it’s easy to carry, very stylish Noppies “Skirts have and unique,” said Janet Lee, been hard to find co-founder. “Plus, it has since the market has lots of pockets in and out.” been so dress heavy, According to Texidor of so I’m happy to see it’s not all dresses in A New View, the satchel is maternity,” said Tait of MOM2B. “what’s happening at the Leggings and tunics are still popular, moment.” but what’s really exciting is the demand Herringbone tweed is for denim and fashionable bottoms, featured on a number according to Emily Rosenberg, owner of diaper bags, Texidor of Bella Belli Maternity. added. “Black and white Skinny jeans and trouser jeans are houndstooth is also definitely growing, according to Sarah becoming popular again.” Pollack, owner, Moms the Word. “Now you At Mia Bossi, the brand’s need at least two or three pairs of jeans. And signature polka dot print Mia Bossi skinny is really starting to happen because is a best-seller, but with the bigger tunic-y tops, it brings you back the company also to a shape.” notes that snake Denim and designer denim are still hot skin and metallic in maternity looks, agreed Pardue. “Hot are hot for spring. trends include high-waisted pants, and not so Japanese maternity-looking styles. I think that’s here to Weekend stay forever — we can only hope.” photo by: Marcy Maloy

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By Whitney Beckett NEW YORK — Cynthia O’Connor had a vision when she switched from being a buyer at Stanley Korshak in Dallas to opening her namesake showroom 15 years ago — she wanted to create a buyer’s paradise. “Coming from a higher-end store, I never had time when I came to New York, and I hated that no one served you food — it was a stretch to get a cup of coffee — and no one opened until after 9 a.m.,” O’Connor said. “So we started opening at 8:30 and serving fabulous cappuccinos [all come with chocolate], lunches, candy — anything the buyers wanted.” This spring O’Connor renovated her showroom at 141 West 36th Street here, dou- bling its space to 12,000 square feet. The showroom, which reps more than a dozen lines including Kooba and Julie Haas, does $40 million to $60 million in wholesale volume a year, said O’Connor, who added that she wanted to re- invest “a lot lot lot” to create an even more buyer-friendly environment. The showroom, complete with health and beauty prod- ucts in its bathrooms, still stands out in the Garment District, but providing such amenities is a rising trend. As Cynthia O’Connor’s bathroom buyers become more crunched buffet for buyers. for time, showrooms tempt them to stay longer by offer- ing everything from cappuc- The renovation costs come in time and money. Christopher Fisher Ltd., a ven- cinos served by waiters to dor who specializes in cashmere knits that wholesale from $50 to $200, moved catered meals prepared by a into his 10,000-square-foot space in June 2006 and is still putting on fi nishing private chef. Employees, too, touches. He spent $1.5 million renovating the 16th fl oor of 500 Seventh Avenue. are squeezed for time in jobs “Our product is designer and contemporary, but not overdesigned, and I that more and more require felt it was important to continue that through the showroom,” said Fisher, the trips to Chinese manufactur- president and chief executive offi cer of his eponymous knit company. ing plants or Las Vegas trade Fisher, who moved his operations to New York in 1996, enlisted Italian de- shows, and luxurious bath- sign specialists for the showroom. Boffi Kitchens did the stainless steel kitch- rooms include showers to help en, bathrooms are lined in semiglass mosaic Bizarra tile, and the showroom employees move seamlessly echoes the double-sided, sand-blasted glass with industrial steel frames of the between those obligations and kitchen doors. The Austrian wood fl oors are pickled and kelm-dried. the offi ce. “I considered moving down to SoHo or Meatpacking [District], but buyers were Since the renovations, saying it’s such a hassle to get all the way down there,” Fisher said. “I thought, if I buyers are staying about 50 can’t move downtown, at least I can be in a space that feels like that.” percent longer, O’Connor Fisher designed the space to be fi t for entertaining, with a table at which he said. With seven bathrooms encourages the 21 people who work in the showroom to eat lunch. With a stocked — stocked with items from fridge and cabinets, Fisher has an eat-in kitchen, but it is not built for cooking. breath mints to nail polish to An outdoor patio at The Isabella Co. The bathrooms are also friendly to the social nature of the business, with hangover pills — two kitchens, on which buyers can dine. a walk-in shower, which employees use once a week on average. “There’s candy bowls on every table, CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY so many events in this industry, and you never have enough time to change drink menus and waiters dur- and you are always running late,” ing market, she described her showroom as a “destination place.” Fisher said. “With the bathrooms The 12 full-time employees also benefi ted from the renovations, which added here, you can have a shave and a a small workout room and gave them lockers to store workout clothes (perhaps to shower. It’s quite a luxury.” offset the effects of the movie theater-worthy candy offerings on every table). Many Showers also accommodate of the more than a dozen brands, all of which are targeted to high-end department the global nature of the business. and specialty stores, have their own rooms in the new space. Howard Aubrey, president of The “We had Kate Spade for six years, had Isabella Fiore, have Kooba, are debuting Isabella Co. Inc., has a shower in Hollywould handbags this market,’’ O’Connor said. “We’ve built a lot of brands — it’s his offi ce that he initially wanted not just because we built a good showroom — we provide a lot of services smaller for his travels back from Europe, brands can’t afford.…When I redid the showroom, it renewed my vows to the busi- where all seven of the bridge ness and really refreshed me. We are almost a brand of our own, and it was time for to designer lines in his 12,000- me to show that.” square-foot showroom are based. O’Connor began the renovations in March and is still completing the fi nishing The shower is used about once a touches. Construction forced the showroom to close during April. “It was tough,’’ month, and Isabella’s 24-person O’Connor said. “We just talked on the phone a lot.” staff can also use the shower when employees come straight to the of- fi ce after returning from shows in Los Angeles and Las Vegas. Saving time for his staff, as well as for time-cramped buyers, is a running theme in the perks Aubrey offers at Isabella. A year-and-a- half ago, he hired an Israeli chef to prepare kosher vegetarian and fi sh dishes for the buyers and em- ployees. “The goal is to save the hassle of people ordering from fi ve places when buyers come, waiting an hour for delivery and then the confu- sion of not knowing whose food is whose,” Aubrey said. The chef prepares a daily spread of salads, pasta and sandwiches. Though the service was initiated for buyers, the in-house buffet also feeds the staff, who do not have time to go out for lunch, particularly during market. Perhaps even better than minisandwiches of fi gs and cheese on a pretzel roll is the dining atmosphere. Isabella boasts an outdoor patio on the top fl oor of 205 West 39th Street, the building that houses the Calvin Klein showroom. With a view of the Garment District and the Hudson River, the patio is carpeted with fake grass and includes a four-person table under a red umbrella and a corner bench. The balcony is also equipped for work, with WiFi so buyers can make orders over lunch. Staff at Christopher Fisher Ltd. can shower at the offi ce before evening events. “It’s like an oasis,” Aubrey said. “Whoever wants to come out here fi nds a refuge.” 50 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM Financial Retailers Opt Out of Monthly Comps By Jeanine Poggi and Erica Owen changed the company’s mix of business, increasing rev- enue from online and catalogue sales, which now total eporting monthly same-store sales could become a about 15 percent of the company’s revenue. Rthing of the past. While not all feedback to the change was positive, Bebe Stores Inc. and Dress Barn Inc. on Thursday Coolick said the overwhelming majority of investors un- joined 8 apparel retailers — including Charming derstood that the change allows Charming Shoppes to Shoppes, Guess, Gymboree, New York & Company and focus on broader trends. Talbots — that have discontinued reporting monthly “We don’t have to spend so much time explaining the comps over the past two years, in favor of reporting on a nuances of holiday and calendar shifts,” she said. quarterly basis. Other retailers may follow. But moving to quarterly comps has not limited the Long a measure of the overall health of retail compa- company’s visibility. “We are very open and frank between nies, Wall Street uses comparable same-store sales, or quarterly points if warranted,” Coolick said. “If there is “comps,” to compare sales of stores open for one year or an update that’s meaningful we will be out there with it.” more on a year-over-year basis. While advocates main- Dress Barn is one of many retailers While reporting monthly comps does provide investors tain that reporting monthly comps allow visibility into a that has stopped reporting monthly a frequent update on business and refl ects customer loyal- company’s current health, critics complain that reporting same-store sales. ty, it also creates volatility in the stocks, which sometimes comps on a monthly basis tells little of a retailer’s overall is not justifi ed and blindsides investors, Poole said. trends, disrupts operations and fl uctuates stock price. Dress Barn announced in February it would begin This volatility has led many analysts to advocate “I think we will see a big shift toward retailers report- reporting same-store sales on a quarterly basis begin- shifting to quarterly comps. ing quarterly comps instead of monthly,” predicted Eric ning with its quarter ending Oct. 27. “By only reporting quarterly comps, retailers reduce the Beder, specialty retail analyst at Brean Murray Carret & CL King analyst Mark Montagna said Dress Barn’s impact of January, February and July, which in the grand Co. “I use to be a big advocate of monthly comps, but now change to quarterly comps should not surprise investors scheme of things don’t mean that much,” Beder said. I think quarterly is the best way to go; there is too much as it is in line with the company’s overall strategy. Reporting only quarterly comps can also attract more noise associated with reporting monthly.” “Dress Barn has always managed for the long- long-term investors that do not want the instability that Beder and his peers say calendar shifts, promotional term and investors are aware of that,” Montagna said. accompany monthly comps. activity, inconsistent weather and changes in receipt fl ow “They’re not going after monthly numbers — they are “Quarterly comps are usually reported at the same can skew monthly comps results and create stock volatility going after long-term growth.” time as earnings, which gives investors a lot more infor- that has little correlation to a company’s actual vitality. However, Montagna noted that means less data for mation to digest and [with which to] evaluate the busi- And since same-store sales are not subject to the investors to evaluate when analyzing the company, and ness. I think this eliminates some of the irrational weight rules of the Financial Accounting Standards Board, ana- sees the overall trend of moving to quarterly comps as a that can be placed on a monthly comp,” Poole said. lysts say comps are not credible in comparing retailers negative for investors. Poole said companies could improve reporting under even in the same sector. “Overall, it’s a bad thing because companies should the current monthly schedule and cited American “If investors don’t understand how these components always be managing for the long-term anyhow and by not Eagle’s approach to monthly comps. The company up- impact a company’s monthly comp, they do not have a giving the monthly updates, it leaves more opportunities dates its quarterly earnings guidance each month when true meaning of the business and could be very sur- for investors to be surprised,” Montagna said. “I think in- it reports same-store sales. prised when quarterly earnings are reported,” said Ann vestors would rather have status updates along the way.” “By doing this, I believe they give more meaning to Poole, retail analyst at Nolenberger Capital Partners. Plus-size women’s apparel retailer Charming their comp, and investors have a better indication of Same-store sales also ignore the role of direct-to- Shoppes decided to stop reporting monthly same-store how business is really trending,” Poole said. “I think consumer and Internet sales, an increasingly signifi cant sales in 2006 after the company acquired several online more companies should adopt this practice because it portion of retailers’ revenue, said Craig Johnson, presi- and catalogue divisions. Gayle Coolick, director of in- removes some of the irrational volatility and eliminates dent of consulting fi rm Consumer Growth Partners. vestor relations, said these acquisitions dramatically earnings surprises at the end of the quarter.” Same-Store Sales, Share Price Mismatch STOCKS VS. COMPS n analysis of companies that report month- A ly same-store sales by WWD shows little AVERAGE AVERAGE correlation between the sector’s monthly re- MONTHLY COMP STOCK MOVEMENT* sults and subsequent stock performance. WWD examined the monthly comps of retail CONSISTENT POSITIVE SSS companies over a 12-month period to fi nd the aver- Saks 13.7% 1.4% age monthly comps fi gure and average stock price Zumiez 12.7% 2.9% movement the day retailers released results. On Thursday, retailers surprised Wall Street Nordstrom 8.4% 0.7% when they reported an average 2.7 percent increase in August same-store sales due to a late start on CONSISTENT NEGATIVE SSS back-to-school shopping. But stock shifts didn’t re- fl ect the results. On average, WWD-surveyed stocks rose only 0.3 percent at market close that day. Wilsons -15.8% -1.2% The period’s high and low marks yield simi- Hot Topic -4.8% -2% lar results. Thanks to an early Easter bolstering Pacifi c Sunwear -1.4% 0.2% sales, March 2007 posted the largest average year-over-year increase in comps of 7.1 percent, *AVERAGE STOCK MOVEMENT CALCULATED FROM PERCENT CHANGE OF SHARES FROM MARKET with a majority of company results coming in CLOSE THE DAY BEFORE COMPANIES REPORTED SSS TO THE CLOSING PRICE OF SHARES THE DAY above year-over-year comparisons and topping OF REPORTING SSS. Wall Street expectations. Despite the stellar results, stocks showed little response, with an average gain of 0.7 percent the day the results were reported. Just one month later, retailers posted an average decline in same-store sales of 6.2 percent as March’s benefi t of an early Easter took share from April sales on top of colder-than-average weather. Stocks reacted modestly, falling an average of just 1 percent the day companies posted results. Nordstrom Inc., Saks Inc. and Zumiez Inc. were among the period’s most consistent reporters of strong same-store Monthly same-store sales average sales, with Nordstrom and Saks posting regular double-digit comps growth, while Wilsons The Leather Experts Inc., Average stock percent change Hot Topic Inc. and Pacifi c Sunwear of California Inc. struggled through the interval with consistent negative comps. — E.O.

brella, expected to close later this year, has total aggregate guaranteed royalty revenue of $160 million, or 65 percent of the purchase price. The primary Pillowtex brands are Cannon, Royal Velvet, Fieldcrest and Charisma, and the four lines alone are expected Iconix Buys Offi cial Pillowtex to generate between $35 million and $37 million in 2008 royalty revenue. The ceo isn’t ruling out brand extensions into home for Iconix’s apparel brands, conix Brand Group finally got its wish: The brand management firm on nor an expansion of the home brands into categories such as tabletops. IThursday said it entered into an agreement to purchase Official Pillowtex LLC, Cole also hinted there could be additional deals on the horizon in fashion and a home textiles licensing firm, for $231 million in cash with contingent payments apparel before yearend, including a possible one in the sporting goods sector. of up to an additional $15 million in cash, dependent on surpassing certain rev- “We make sure we do good deals, not just any deals. There are some interesting enue targets. opportunities for this year and we continue to be acquisitive,” Cole said. He per- As fi rst reported in April, Pillowtex has been on Iconix’s radar for quite some time. ceives the current lack of liquidity to fi nance deals that has impacted private equity Neil Cole, chairman and chief executive offi cer of Iconix, said the parties have been fi rms a plus for Iconix because “some might not be looking into areas that we are.” in on-and-off talks for over a year and a half. The newest addition to the Iconix um- — Vicki M. Young AWWDAccessories Supplement 2007

Time to make an impression for spring 2008. Do it in WWD “A.”

Special focus: Watches

Next issue: October 22 Close date: September 17 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE GEORGE BY PHOTO

™ For more information on advertising in WWD, contact Alix Michel, associate publisher, accessories, WWD Style Starts Here at 212-630-4596; Ron Troxell, senior account manager, at 323-965-7285, or your WWD representative. 52 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM Financial

“We believe Mr. Thomas’ hiring removes a key uncertainty for the company and should Retail Stocks Plummet on Unemployment Report provide investors with even further confi dence that Wet Seal has the management depth and tocks closed another week fi rmly in the red closing down 2.7 percent to 465.91. this seems like a natural for the company, the experience to drive material top- and bottom-line SFriday after the U.S. Department of Labor Quiksilver Inc. and The Wet Seal Inc. were trick being to keep it separate from its highly expansion going forward,” Beder said in a note. posted a drop in August employment rates, the among the retail sector’s sole gainers at market successful juniors brand, Roxy.” Meanwhile, positive comment from CL King fi rst since 2003. close Friday — thanks to major announcements Robert W. Baird & Co. analyst Mitch & Assoc. analyst Mark Montagna kept Dress The Department of Labor’s Bureau of Labor the companies made late last week. Kummetz rates Quiksilver shares at “neutral.” Barn Inc. shares near breakeven. The stock Statistics said employment in manufacturing, Shares of Quiksilver closed up 2.1 percent “We believe that ZQK is doing the right closed up 0.1 percent to $16.70. construction and local government education to $13.12 after the fi rm said it would launch thing going after this consumer with its Montagna, who reiterated his “strong buy” declined, but job growth continued in the a line for women under its namesake brand — Quiksilver brand instead of a new brand, even rating of Dress Barn shares, said now is an health care and food services sectors. garnering widespread Wall Street enthusiasm. as it will likely cannibalize the company’s Roxy opportune time to buy the stock, thanks to “Employment in retail trade was little The line, targeted at women ages 18 to 24, brand to some extent,” Kummetz said. “compellingly low valuation and its relatively changed in August,” the bureau said in a press older than the core base of its women’s label Meanwhile, shares of Wet Seal gained 2.5 lower-risk future prospects.” release. “A job gain in building material and Roxy, will compete with Urban Outfi tter’s Free percent to $4.49 after the retailer named “The recent addition of women’s plus garden supply stores was partially offset by a People and casual women’s designer Ella Moss, Edmond Thomas as its chief executive offi cer, sizes and the removal of men’s should boost decline in general merchandise stores.” said CIBC World Markets analyst Dorothy Lakner, charged with leading its turnaround effort. productivity and profi ts at the Maurices division,” The Dow Jones Industrial Average fell 1.9 who rates Quiksilver shares at “sector performer.” Thomas previously worked at Wet Seal from Montagna said in a research note. “This creates a percent to 13,113.38, while the S&P 500 lost “The one real void in its brand offerings, 1992 to 2000 before taking his current role as similar ‘combo’ store the Dress Barn division has 1.7 percent to 1,453.55 and the New York Stock which span ages and genders from babies to co-ceo at surf chain Tilly’s Inc. operated so successfully for many years.” Exchange dropped 1.6 percent to 9,486.44. The older men, [is] women’s, [which] has been Brean Murray Carret & Co. analyst Eric Dress Barn will report fourth-quarter Nasdaq declined 1.9 percent to 2,565.70. the white space in Quiksilver’s mix,” Lakner Beder reiterated his “buy” rating of Wet Seal earnings Sept. 19. The S&P Retail Index took a large hit, said. “With more women taking up surfi ng, shares on the news. — Erica Owen Weekly Stocks Fast Stats 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE 84.92 62.51 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 15.6 14524 76.75 -1.95 46.16 24.62 Jos. A Bank (JOSB) 11.8 7877 28.50 -1.65 28.75 21.19 Acadia (AKR) 56.6 999 24.26 -0.71 34.84 18.67 Kellwood (KWD) 20.6 14514 17.58 -2.12 Total 2006 jewelry and 31.88 16.80 Aéropostale (ARO) 13.4 24850 18.88 -1.82 28.32 19.09 Kenneth Cole (KCP) 17.4 1345 20.66 -0.02 26.07 17.01 Alberto Culver (ACV) 10.4 5777 22.85 -0.32 72.79 63.71 Kimberly Clark (KMB) 17.8 18034 67.76 -0.93 silverware industry revenue: 3.45 1.45 Alpha Pro Tech (APT) 12.7 612 1.50 -0.03 53.60 33.74 Kimco Realty (KIM) 28.7 17512 40.62 -2.20 $10.38 billion 34.80 21.46 American Eagle (AEO) 13.3 52771 23.82 -2.01 79.55 54.01 Kohls (KSS) 14.9 53218 53.94 -5.36 45.15 27.05 Ann Taylor (ANN) 17.5 14643 30.80 -0.54 37.81 21.57 K-Swiss (KSWS) 14.4 2262 22.87 -1.25 8.61 6.01 Ashworth (ASHW) - 321 6.25 -0.49 22.99 11.63 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 17.7 17 18.76 -0.49 Number of countries 41.85 28.99 Avon (AVP) 27.5 33019 32.34 -2.01 15.28 11.37 Lakeland Inds (LAKE) 18.8 46 12.11 0.40 15.75 3.72 Bakers (BKRS) - 105 4.00 -0.01 32.60 20.73 Limited Brands (LTD) 11.4 38459 21.48 -1.68 conducting foreign trade 26.86 12.35 Bebe (BEBE) 16.2 6762 13.32 -0.63 24.23 10.90 Liquidity Services (LQDT) 32.8 2062 11.37 0.37 in 2006 with the U.S. in 40.00 28.67 Benetton (BNG) 40.8 13 30.96 0.41 46.84 31.13 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) 17.2 10450 32.35 -1.82 18.00 10.95 Big Dog (BDOG) - 12 15.71 0.36 13.15 3.65 LJ Intl (JADE) 21.6 7360 6.49 -1.75 relation to the jewelry and 9.60 6.49 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 6.4 1 6.90 0.05 39.39 28.21 Luxottica (LUX) 23.8 5509 34.62 0.40 silverware industry: 193 39.15 25.97 BJs (BJ) 23.3 9927 33.56 -1.44 103.59 71.22 Macerich (MAC) 98.8 6872 79.87 -1.35 4.98 0.81 Blue (BLUE) - 281 0.93 -0.05 46.70 29.13 Macy’s Inc. (M) 18.0 68978 29.76 -1.96 1.60 0.80 Bluefly (BFLY) 9.3 222 0.93 0.02 24.49 15.03 Maidenform (MFB) 12.1 2616 16.52 -0.52 Number of container units 57.66 17.52 Bon-Ton (BONT) 14.2 5331 26.56 -2.26 56.64 34.31 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 14.8 7203 48.58 -2.10 37.68 18.53 Brown Shoe (BWS) 15.3 7853 20.69 -2.15 26.31 18.90 Marcus (MCS) 17.8 1031 19.85 -1.27 handled at U.S. retail 41.45 23.03 Buckle (BKE) 16.6 1806 35.94 -1.47 57.65 14.48 Mothers Work (MWRK) 23.6 1707 17.26 -3.19 container ports in August: 26.32 12.50 Caché (CACH) 42.8 3246 16.26 -0.52 35.40 20.55 Movado (MOV) 15.8 2332 30.78 1.28 28.57 14.76 Capitalsource (CSE) 10.3 27716 17.15 -0.68 3.50 0.75 Movie Star (MSI) 230.0 71 2.34 0.00 1.5 million 30.18 19.36 Carter (CRI) - 7694 20.08 0.34 25.95 20.20 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 16.9 6872 22.90 -0.59 15.10 9.60 Casual Male (CMRG) 8.4 2584 9.45 -0.65 16.20 6.12 New York & Co. (NWY) 9.6 4904 6.35 -0.25 25.66 17.60 Cato (CTR) 13.7 1741 20.90 -1.17 60.35 39.93 Nike (NKE) 18.9 25523 54.70 -1.64 Month-over-month 50.36 28.36 CBL (CBL) 28.6 4970 32.89 -0.07 9.38 2.05 Nitches (NICH) 268.0 24 2.60 -0.17 percentage increase in 12.74 8.94 CCA (CAW) 14.9 39 9.80 -0.10 59.70 37.70 Nordstrom (JWN) 17.4 45065 46.98 -1.12 12.50 3.85 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) 16.0 496 4.01 -0.16 28.90 16.03 Oakley (OO) 38.0 4459 28.87 0.10 container unit traffi c from 33.93 15.56 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 10.2 5242 16.75 -0.72 6.77 3.25 Orange 21 (ORNG) - 219 4.25 -0.62 July 2007: 2.3 15.57 7.67 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) 12.2 15267 8.53 -0.51 25.00 5.00 Orchids Paper (TIS) 35.7 4 8.51 -0.26 68.31 32.92 Chattem (CHTT) 24.3 2134 62.17 0.46 53.98 34.35 Oxford (OXM) 11.9 1456 34.18 -2.04 48.76 33.65 Cherokee (CHKE) 9.8 502 36.84 -1.16 23.11 13.00 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) 374.8 21240 14.64 0.63 Month-over-month 27.94 15.35 Chico’s (CHS) 18.5 29087 14.86 -1.12 7.97 2.63 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 725 3.75 -0.01 71.81 26.36 Children’s Place (PLCE) 10.6 7662 27.11 -1.65 37.20 21.80 Payless Shoes (PSS) 12.2 23276 22.14 -1.49 percentage increase in 31.25 11.69 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 15.4 5393 12.00 -0.08 35.22 17.55 Perry Ellis (PERY) 14.3 1632 27.23 -0.06 container unit traffi c from 43.83 34.70 Cintas (CTAS) 17.4 6422 35.65 -1.00 62.19 37.82 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 18.3 6310 54.06 -4.17 49.72 20.77 Citi Trends (CTRN) 15.5 2064 21.41 -0.33 5.65 1.38 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 29 3.02 -0.40 June to July 2007: 4.9 54.00 29.90 Coach (COH) 26.7 61295 44.67 0.14 19.51 12.69 Playtex (PYX) 29.3 7723 18.15 -0.05 31.25 11.85 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) 21.7 42192 11.55 -0.89 102.58 59.50 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 20.1 9712 76.58 1.04 70.16 59.35 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 20.9 23615 65.43 -0.89 26.93 11.91 PriceSmart (PSMT) 42.9 433 23.05 -0.91 SOURCE: RESEARCH AND MARKETS, 70.93 48.49 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 15.6 2711 56.61 -3.31 1.50 0.02 Quaker Fabric (QFAB) - 491 0.03 0.00 32.19 19.50 Conns (CONN) 11.6 3338 19.86 -2.14 THE NATIONAL RETAIL FEDERATION 16.08 10.90 Quiksilver (ZQK) 28.6 22755 13.12 -0.27 65.57 46.94 Costco (COST) 24.9 60359 57.00 -4.75 13.14 6.00 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 3.5 342 8.46 -0.69 11.64 7.75 Cost U Less (CULS) 16.8 884 11.40 -0.02 39.55 28.51 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 9.9 1069 30.28 -1.97 61.99 13.37 Crocs (CROX) 39.5 57088 56.92 -2.12 93.49 61.99 Regency Centers (REG) 32.3 2740 68.75 -0.72 12.30 4.37 Culp (CFI) - 152 10.20 0.00 23.30 10.87 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 3953 10.79 -0.78 WWD Index 5.00 1.09 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 60 1.27 -0.02 1.75 0.99 Revlon (REV) - 6925 1.12 -0.03 29.97 23.27 Deb Shops (DEBS) 17.9 241 26.83 0.15 19.23 8.40 Rocky Brands (RCKY) 14.7 449 9.29 0.58 113.50 41.58 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 33.6 3246 91.40 -2.79 35.17 24.05 Ross Stores (ROST) 14.7 15280 26.52 -1.31 12.00 4.20 Delia’s (DLIA) 39.4 3120 4.48 -0.18 20.50 14.91 Delta Apparel (DLA) 25.8 36 17.10 -0.23 23.25 14.38 Saks (SKS) 105.4 40438 15.75 -0.42 Composite 10.58 5.64 Delta Galil (DELT) - 0 5.80 -0.10 195.18 127.90 Sears (SHLD) 14.9 24799 133.70 -9.86 920.77 72.33 46.28 Developers Diversified (DDR) 26.8 12486 52.54 -0.94 35.26 17.07 Shoe Carnival (SCVL) 11.2 1289 16.56 -0.69 40.56 20.31 Dillard’s (DDS) 9.1 25730 20.70 -3.04 7.93 2.08 Shoe Pavilion (SHOE) - 264 2.96 0.11 24.93 15.90 Dress Barn (DBRN) 11.2 10378 16.70 -0.80 123.96 82.60 Simon Properties (SPG) 46.2 13055 92.12 -2.80 44.71 27.10 DSW (DSW) 20.0 7285 27.76 -2.69 38.03 17.36 Skechers (SKX) 11.0 5610 18.58 -1.25 42.06 33.67 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 30.4 144 38.00 0.15 5.90 3.31 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 39 3.66 0.00 14.27 6.50 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 2728 8.35 0.55 18.00 7.85 Stein Mart (SMRT) 11.9 4847 8.66 -0.12 25.11 14.49 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 17.2 1752 23.99 -0.61 5.00 2.72 Stephan (TSC) - 0 3.90 -0.02 52.31 36.85 Estée Lauder (EL) 18.7 12530 40.87 -0.72 44.70 22.57 Steve Madden (SHOO) 11.3 2522 22.52 -2.10 -35.44 34.98 13.58 Everlast Worldwide (EVST) 193.2 508 32.79 0.15 13.54 10.41 Superior Uniform (SGC) 43.1 28 11.65 -0.09 35.42 24.23 Family Dollar (FDO) 17.9 26794 28.00 -1.28 22.08 13.14 Syms (SYM) 49.4 898 15.95 -0.44 14.97 5.32 Finish Line (FINL) 10.6 12135 5.50 -0.14 31.00 19.43 Talbots (TLB) - 6895 19.20 -2.08 26.16 23.03 Forest City (FCY) 30.3 49 24.15 -0.29 2.15 0.65 Talon Intl. (TLN) - 132 0.88 -0.08 36.44 18.93 Fossil (FOSL) 25.5 8557 34.86 1.35 13.70 9.27 Tandy Brands (TBAC) 19.4 81 10.97 -0.09 15.74 9.71 Freds (FRED) 16.2 4575 10.19 -0.21 8.32 5.80 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 11.7 154 6.73 -0.28 Weekly % Changes 41.85 33.29 G&K (GKSR) 19.7 1244 38.72 -2.93 43.56 32.32 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 56.2 4456 37.13 -0.94 21.20 10.85 Gaiam (GAIA) 68.7 3278 19.68 -1.01 70.75 47.76 Target (TGT) 18.3 89693 61.00 -4.93 (ending Sept. 7) 21.39 15.20 Gap (GPS) 19.4 115243 17.94 -0.82 2.20 0.96 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 1188 1.25 -0.06 67.43 42.40 General Growth (GGP) 39.9 21228 49.25 -0.46 63.87 40.20 Taubman (TCO) 72.2 3644 51.27 -0.31 Gainers Close Change 54.15 26.93 Genesco (GCO) 19.6 13606 44.80 -1.09 12.13 6.50 Tefron (TFR) 11.3 274 7.10 -0.10 26.74 9.65 G-III Apparel (GIII) 13.4 1489 16.80 -0.35 56.79 31.08 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 24.9 29406 49.29 -2.04 House of Taylor 0.95 37.68 37.68 23.11 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 16.4 1262 31.88 -0.53 33.45 18.74 Timberland (TBL) 15.2 5394 19.15 -0.94 29.69 19.39 Glimcher (GRT) - 2803 22.32 -0.04 31.17 25.74 TJ Maxx (TJX) 19.7 34128 29.49 -1.00 Quaker Fabric 0.03 12.00 15.37 4.32 Gottschalks (GOT) - 944 4.61 -0.39 23.88 14.65 True Religion (TRLG) 16.9 3762 16.32 -0.46 Iconix 22.25 7.33 54.10 21.53 Guess (GES) 28.4 17092 48.07 -4.93 47.00 27.35 Tween Brands (TWB) 15.3 7239 28.81 -0.69 49.11 32.86 Gymboree (GYMB) 15.2 4314 37.15 -2.94 73.40 32.58 Under Armour (UA) 68.9 9944 63.85 -1.16 Eddie Bauer 8.35 7.05 20.25 11.76 Hampshire (HAMP) 44.7 15 17.10 0.10 3.07 1.69 Unifi (UFI) - 458 2.43 0.01 33.73 20.55 Hanesbrands (HBI) - 4954 30.04 0.08 48.00 30.73 Unifirst (UNF) 16.2 718 39.00 -2.38 Rocky Brands 9.29 6.66 8.69 5.50 Hartmarx (HMX) 101.1 825 7.00 -0.28 20.00 8.15 United Retail (URGI) 10.2 1519 7.95 -0.66 29.26 17.11 Helen of Troy (HELE) 12.0 1872 20.69 -1.96 27.75 14.34 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 28.1 29578 21.24 -1.66 14.45 7.47 Hot Topic (HOTT) 28.1 7133 8.06 -0.31 96.20 69.05 VF Corp. (VFC) 15.9 6125 80.32 0.47 Decliners Close Change 4.45 0.64 House of Taylor (HOTJ) - 716 0.95 0.26 51.00 22.04 Volcom (VLCM) 31.1 4223 36.28 -2.75 40.99 25.08 IAC Interactive (IACI) 44.1 20696 27.60 -0.19 52.15 42.35 Wal-Mart (WMT) 14.2 223665 42.39 -1.24 LJ Intl. 6.49 -21.20 23.83 14.49 Iconix (ICON) 25.7 19862 22.25 1.52 41.17 18.86 Warnaco (WRNC) 15.4 5186 33.25 -1.65 Mothers Work 17.26 -15.60 2.45 0.37 Innovo (INNO) - 1539 1.86 0.00 52.30 35.75 Weingarten (WRI) 24.0 4393 39.41 -0.80 29.18 16.39 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 22.3 763 20.80 0.04 34.01 20.33 Weyco (WEYS) 14.9 884 28.54 -0.92 Dillard’s 20.70 -12.81 57.17 25.58 J. Crew (JCG) 24.1 18653 43.78 -6.03 3.08 1.01 Wilsons (WLSN) - 333 1.71 -0.11 87.18 61.54 J.C. Penney (JCP) 12.9 26015 65.07 -3.69 31.08 24.55 Wolverine (WWW) 16.3 3143 25.40 -0.89 Orange 21 4.25 -12.73 14.25 7.21 Jaclyn (JLN) 19.4 6 9.45 0.30 31.72 19.89 Zale (ZLC) 18.6 19906 22.38 -0.09 J. Crew 43.78 -12.11 35.54 16.73 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 20963 19.30 0.11 49.22 20.00 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 58.0 10473 45.36 -3.17 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 53 WWD.COM

Naoto Somarta Ne-net

Mercibeaucoup PHOTOS BY NOBUYOSHI YONEYAMA NOBUYOSHI PHOTOS BY Japan Fashion Week Aims to Raise Its Profi le

By Koji Hirano American musician Marilyn Manson, has been basically found some brands are salable in Europe. “Of course sold only in Japan, but “joining the [Tokyo] collection for the market here is different from Europe, but the qual- TOKYO — Tribal motifs, a relaxed mood and, of course, the fi rst time raised our reputation among a wider range ity is excellent,” she said. typical Japanese kawaii, or “cute,” were all on display of people in the industries,” said company executives. Maiko Shibata, women’s creative merchandiser for during the runway shows at Japan Fashion Week. The In Hall A, which had 600 seats and some space for stand- Restir, an emerging Japanese specialty chain that is a fa- five-day event showcased the latest works for spring ing, Dresscamp showcased a collection with a Moroccan vorite of the nation’s celebrities, said she would continue 2008 from 38 brands and took place mainly at Tokyo theme that mixed romanticism with an ethnic motif in fl o- to buy Somarta for next spring. “I was expecting a more Midtown in the Roppongi district. ral patterns and lace. Earthy and airy hues were often used refreshing style from Somarta, just like the brand gave us The idea behind the shows is “to introduce the na- instead of its specialty of shiny colors. Designer Toshikazu a jolt in her fi rst collection,” said Shibata after the show. tion’s talented young designers to the world at the be- Iwaya plans to show in Paris in fall 2008. “But her style is just being recognized in the market. It is ginning of the world’s collection circuit,” according to Ylang Ylang used vivid colors such as lemon yellow, selling well at our stores to a wide range of customers.” JFW, although some brands decided not to hold shows lavender, fuchsia pink and mandarin in dresses under Tia Browsh, owner of Los Angeles-based specialty store due to the tight schedule between the nation’s summer a theme of Surrealism, while the Lyricis brand created Jack Henry, liked Somarta’s body-fi tted knits and Matohu’s holidays and the New York collections. a scene from a picnic with light brown, pale orange or style, but was dissatisfi ed with Japanese kawaii brands On the fi rst day of the runway shows, called Tokyo green cotton dresses or skirts. such as Mercibeaucoup and Ne-net. “I wasn’t blown away Collection Week, Mercibeaucoup showed a new version One of the brands generating the most attention was by those brands,” she said. For the store, whose customer of Japanese kawaii clothes with a theme of “star in the Somarta. In its third show since its debut, designer list is fi lled with Hollywood celebrities, they are “academ- sky.” From huge star-shaped sunglasses installed on the Tamae Hirokawa showed another version of “the second ic.” But “Dresscamp is very energetic and salable. I felt so runway came out models with cloud-like star wigs on skin,” or body-fi tted knitwear with gold capes and black when the show started,” said Browsh. their heads. The brand’s designer Eri Utsugi, aka Tokyo or white dresses. Under a theme of “engraver,” she un- This fall, JFW kicked off the world’s collection circuit fashion’s pop and funky mother, produced border and veiled tattoo-like knit patterns with the models’ faces before New York, but most Japanese brands will show at dotted prints as well as star patterns. perfectly painted. a trade exhibition in October. Therefore, “I cannot say Naoto, a Goth and Lolita punk charisma brand, Some strong brands, such as Mintdesigns, didn’t show now how much I will buy,” said Browsh. showed during the offi cial collection schedule for the fi rst on the offi cial schedule due to timing or the availability The next JFW will be held March 10 to 16, with the time. The brand received more than 10 inquiries from of venues. runway shows making up Tokyo Fashion Week held overseas after the show. Naoto, whose fan list includes Aurilie Paronnaud, a teacher at Es Mode Japon, March 11 to 15.

“The industry has to be even more by the declining housing market and mindful of their marketing strategy,” falling house prices, but as long as em- Latest Job Cuts Could Weigh on Economy Niemira said. “They need to think like ployment keeps growing, the consumer a recession environment exists whether will be OK,” said Nigel Gault, Global By Evan Clark the economy could be headed toward it happens or not.” Insight’s chief U.S. economist. “The big a recession. The Dow Jones Industrial Price, which is already a major driv- question mark is going to be the holiday WASHINGTON — Posting the first nation- Average fell 1.9 percent to 13,113.38, the er of shopping trends, is going to become sales. That’s going to be the real test wide job loss in four years, U.S. employ- Standard & Poor’s 500 Index dropped even more important, he said. The next and this will make people more nervous ers cut a seasonally adjusted 4,000 posi- 1.7 percent to 1,453.55 and the Nasdaq few months might prove to be diffi cult, about the holiday season.” tions in August, undermining one of the fell 1.9 percent to 2,565.7. especially as the impact of the credit Retailers sometimes look to cut key supports for consumer spending. The job slump might also entice squeeze on Wall Street and the melt- costs by trimming their own payrolls, In the apparel industry, specialty the Federal Reserve Board to bring down of the subprime mortgage market though this can backfi re if there isn’t stores beefed up payrolls and department its benchmark federal funds interest cycle is felt throughout the economy. enough help in the stores to keep cus- stores cut head count, the Department rate down from 5.25 percent in order to “This is still the effect of the slow- tomers happy. of Labor reported on Friday. stimulate growth by increasing access to down in the housing market and the Last month, apparel and accessories The construction area was hit hard credit. The Fed is to meet on Sept. 18, other slowdown in the general econo- stores added a seasonally adjusted 3,300 by the housing slump, and manufactur- but a reduction could come sooner. my,” said Rajeev Dhawan, director of new jobs compared with July, for a total ers also suffered declines, including a “The economy is much more vulner- the Economic Forecasting Center at of 1.5 million. On the other hand, de- loss of 6,800 jobs among domestic ap- able than we may have thought,” said Georgia State University. “Now it’s very partment stores, which have been strug- parel and textile producers. In addition, Michael Niemira, chief economist for clear the economy is already weak and gling as of late, slashed payrolls by 7,800 overall job growth in June and July was the International Council of Shopping it’s clear that, with the credit crunch, to 1.6 million. not as robust as fi rst thought, and the fi g- Centers. it’s going to get weaker.” Continuing their battle against im- ures were revised downward by 81,000 Although August same-stores sales Especially important for fashion re- ports and a changing sourcing land- to growth of 137,000 new positions for beat Wall Street estimates — Niemira tailers looking ahead to the crucial holi- scape, U.S. apparel factories cut a the two months. said chain stores posted a collective 2.9 day season is whether shoppers will cut seasonally adjusted 3,700 positions com- The unemployment rate held steady percent rise — stores might be facing back on spending because they are wor- pared with July, for a total of 214,000, as at 4.6 percent last month. trouble ahead. Retailers have cut prices ried about their next paychecks. textile mill employment shrank by 2,300 The weakened employment picture and offered discounts to spur business, “Through this cycle, people have to 167,700 and payrolls at textile product generated fears on Wall Street that which could cut into profi ts. often said the consumer will be affected mills slid by 800 to 152,700. 54 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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vendors Two out of three readers discovered new vendors in WWD.

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Patterns/Samples/Production Broadway Garment Center Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening LOW PRICES!!! NICE OFFICE + SHOWROOM Gowns custom made & wholesale. Finest quality French faux fur AVAILABLE TO SHARE Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Premium velvets. Full and partial rolls. Please Call Joan @ 917-907-1667 Contact Carol: 973-420-4466 [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Call CLOTHES-OUT: (937) 898-2975 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, DENIMS TO SELL PRODUCTIONS Large Lots, Lots of Denim Fabric. Full service shop to the trade. Camo Available. Cheap Prices. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Showrooms & Lofts 1.877.DENIM.TO.SELL OUTDOOR RETAIL PROGRAM BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS LADIES STOCK WANTED Great ’New’ Office Space Avail SOUTH STREET SEAPORT Summer or Winter Apparel. Budget to ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 E-mail us for application and info: Moderate pricing. Immediate payment. PATTERN/SAMPLES PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD [email protected] Med - Lrg quantities preferred. Call: Joe Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Limited space available for 917-545-4588 Email:[email protected] work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Holiday 2007 and Summer 2008 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2007 55 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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Shipping Manager Eric Javits Inc, accessory Co. w/ ware- ASSISTANT DESIGNER house in LIC, seeks person to manage shipping, receiving, routing, compli- Well established intimate apparel manufacture in Northern ance, UPS. EDI, Invoicing. Min 5 yrs exp req in preparing large shipments Intimate Apparel NJ seeks an Assistant designer with experience in active to Dept stores & all the above. Must wear or intimate apparel. be detailed oriented, have clear oral Sales Reps DESIGNER and written English skills. Fast growing designer lingerie brand Must be creative, organized, energetic individual with ability Email resume w/ salary requirements: seeks Sales Representatives to cover Seeking talented designer to create [email protected] various states nationwide. Must be to multi task and meet deadlines. Proficiency in illustrator original products with experience in highly motivated and experienced in selling high-end lingerie. Ideal candi- and photo shop is required. packaging, apparel/print design, SPEC TECHNICIAN date should be computer literate and ALASKA FUR Mid-town apparel importer is looking posses good oral and written commu- Shuttle Bus Service is provided round trip to/from NY Penn photo-retouching, catalog creation. for an experienced and professional nication skills. Multilingual a plus. Spec Technician to handle private GALLERY Station. Strong Illustrator & Photoshop skills Please email resumes to: Alaska and Park City, Utah label accounts. Strong knowledge of [email protected] required. grading, garment construction and fit- Premier Furriers is looking for Excellent salary and benefit package. tings. We are looking for a team player select fine womens specialty with excellent computer and commu- Email resume to: [email protected] SALES MANAGER nication skills. Great company benefits. stores nationwide for: Fax or email resume to: 212-471-0330 Trunk Shows/Consignment New key position in fast growing or [email protected] and Lease Depts. We have division. Must have experience Technical Design Assistant: a fantastic collection of high ACCOUNT ADMIN/ managing commissioned sales and fashion & fine quality furs, Outerwear shearlings & fur accessories. LOGISTICS/INVENTORY CONTROL SALES SUPPORT reps including account development, Candidate must have excellent com- compensation. Experience in lingerie puter skills, be able to spec garments Jimmy Choo, a leading luxury and be very organized. Please send re- FOR DETAILS CALL/EMAIL Well established intimate apparel required; experience in adult lingerie ISN’T IT TIME? accessories company is looking manufacturer in Northern NJ seeks sume: MICHAEL BOETTCHER AT: market desirable. Possible heavy Email: [email protected] Unique opportunity presents itself that to fill a role in logistics/inventory an Account Administrator to work Fax: 212-594-2555 you can hire a well known Handbag & 214-717-9121 or control. Candidate must have 2+ on a large national account. travel. Salary plus commission. Accessory Executive to manage your years experience in inv/log and TECHNICAL DESIGNERS $HI Business, to Increase your Sales and [email protected] Responsibilities: Email resume INCLUDING 1) Missy-Jrs.-Kids 2) C/S Knits or Wovens Profits. I am capable of merchandising & excellent Excel skills. Retail Pro • Style/item/UPC set up 3) Sweaters 4) All Level Positions marketing all your sales, plus line devel- experience a HUGE plus. expected compensation to: Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 opment for Leathers, Vinyls, Fabrics, and • PO review and tracking can develop a New Division. Heavy [email protected] Technical Designer to $50K. Min 1 year Please e-mail resumes to: • Place & track production orders manufacture and overseas experience. exp in tech packages of outerwear to far If you’re serious, let’s talk now. E-mail: [email protected] • Label & hangtag set up & proofing east. Chinese or Korean biling. helpful [email protected] • Calendar maintenance PRODUCTION MANAGER not nec. Mdtn co. [email protected] • Communication with account Available For Acquisition Designer Associate $50-60K. Min 1-2 Imitation of Christ yrs exp in womens activewear. Sports Candidates must have 2 years exp. Private label Intimate Apparel & Sleep Hands-on Production Manager with strong bras. Camis. Yogawear. Hoodies. Must in garment manufacturing or retailing technical background and exceptional wear Co. is available for acquisition / hang w/ Champion, Nike, Adidas, etc. merger. 10 years in business; 25 years environment, know Excel, be computer organizational skills is sought by Imita- Designer Assistant $35-40K tion, the new RTW line from Imitation experience importing. Several programs Intimate apparel major graduate of savvy; highly organized, detail oriented, in place ongoing with large retailers & of Christ (see: www.theimitation.com). fashion school required. Email resume : analytical and have strong commu- Imitation is currently distributed through catalogs. 5 million in annual sales. Show- [email protected] room, organization, and resources in nication & follow through skills. Barney’s and high-end boutiques in the place & available. Send all inquiries to: USA & Japan, but is significantly expand- Designer Associate to $60K. Min 2 yrs exp Shuttle Bus Service is provided ing its premium distribution partners Box#M 1027 in intimate apparel. Bergen/Hudson c/o Fairchild Classified round trip to/from NY Penn Station via showrooms in N.Y.C., L.A, Tokyo, County, NJ area. Strong career oppty. and Sydney. The ideal candidate will 750 Third Avenue, 5th Fl Email: [email protected] New York, NY 10017 Excellent salary & benefit package have experienece managing the entire production process, from fabric & trim DESIGNER Email resume to: acquisition to patternmaking, sampling, Girls 4/16 Jr. driven import sprtswr co [email protected] and production. Accustomed to the high- seeks talented designer with min 5 pressure environment of international Account Executive yrs exp. Proficient in Illust req’d to production management, the ideal candi- design knit/woven line for mass mkt Patternmaker to $90K. Current exp in date will be motivated and rewarded by Industry leader in fashion accessories has an opportunity for an experi- accts. Responsible from concept thru Gerber Accumark required. Queens consistently on-time & on-budget out- enced Account Executive. Must have 5 years experience working w/major production. Great environment. Email womens sportswear company. Email: comes. The remuneration package will [email protected] accounts, provide exceptional customer service, have good communica- resume to: [email protected] be highly competitive and individually tion skills & the ability to anticipate the customers’ needs. Candidate must PLANNER/Retail Analyst/$70 ++ tailored. Please forward confidential Designer Head $125K to $175K BOE. NYC import co. with very successful CV to: [email protected] be a self-starter, detail oriented, work well w/numbers and able to track Accountant/CFO from $110-$140K Current exp in girls 4-16. Exp w/ Wal- branded Jr. line. Req: 3 yrs. expr as an sales and profitability performance well. Some travel required. Excellent work Strong exp in apparel co req’d. 34th St. Mart or Target or Kmart private label analyst in apparel. Pref. w/Federated environment with first-rate benefits package. Email resume: [email protected] Accountant/Controller to $110K. Min req’d. Supervise 3. [email protected] expr. (wholesale or retail). Excellent 3 yrs supervisor exp. Exp on Microsoft analytical and communication skills. Solomon req’d. Blue Cherry exp a plus. DESIGNER to $140 K E-mail resume: [email protected] Email resume to: [email protected] Strong current exp in bras/panties. Fax 917-591-2521 Tel 914-337-3660 Account Executive SALES EXECUTIVE Will supervise 4 people. Excellent growth Production Manager Aggressive womens apparel company Top prestige brand handbag co. seeks Admin Since 1967 oppty. Email: [email protected]. NEWBORN/ INFANT specializing in designed knit sweaters talented sales pro with a min. 3 yrs exp. Responsible for sourcing and pricing and novelty tees has an exciting oppor- in bridge & designer market to work in W-I-N-S-T-O-N Product Developer to $100K programs on a seasonal basis, all phas- tunity available in our NY showroom. NY showroom. Dynamic team-oriented FINANCIAL LEADER Mid-Tier Dresses, Prints/Fabrics Must have 3-5 years experience with environment. Generous base plus com- APPAREL STAFFING Major Apparel Co. seeks a strong es from concept to delivery, overseas DESIGN * SALES * MERCH [email protected] work with vendors on price negotia- dept./chain stores. Salary, incentives, mission. Email resume in confidence to: financial leader who is at the top of the and/ or commission. [email protected] ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION class, business minded and a true tion, delivery and follow up, investi- (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 gate ways to shorten lead-times and in- Please email resume to: visionary. We are a very fast growing [email protected] market leader and we seek the absolute Production Assistant crease flexibility. The ideal candidate best to permanently lead our must have 3-5 years of experience at a Sales - Fashion Accessory Co. Assistant Manager Intimate Apparel Company Product Manager level and substantial Looking for retail professional for financial team. Responsible for bank Must be highly motivated and detail- Account Executive relationship, budget planning, annual sourcing experience. Detail-orientated Women’s, Jr’s., & Pet Accessories Soho location. Qualified candidates oriented. Major follow up in fast paced person with strong communication, or- Established children’s wear co. seeking Seeking aggressive Salesperson. Self must have 2-3 yrs of managerial luxury review and audit. Report to the CEO. environment. You will oversee all experienced sales exec. Must have min Email: [email protected] ganizational, interpersonal and super- starter with ability to build & maintain retail experience. Exceptional customer aspects of production to ensure on- visory skills. 3 yrs exp and have contacts w/ special- buyer relationships is ideal. Focus and time delivery thru communication service skills and knowledge of mer- Email: [email protected] ty, major dept, & mid tier stores, and ability to drive your business a must. chandising & clientele-based selling a between design / sales and overseas nat’l chain retailers. Excellent benefits. Salary & commission based on exp. Fax GLOBAL QUALITY & vendors. Must also have good working or fax: 212-695-0203 must. E-mail resume w/salary history : E-mail resume to: [email protected] resumes to Hannah at: 212-704-0599 [email protected] TECHNICAL DIRECTOR knowledge of Microsoft Outlook, Word Based in Asia. Responsible for over- & Excel. Please fax or e-mail your resume to: E. Williams: 212-842-4031; Attention Junior Associate Designer looking quality and technical issues Candidates ! SALES/JUNIORS/to $100k+ Established Dress & Spts Co. seeking for manufacturing facilites employing [email protected] EOE. “Hot Ticket” a person with 5 years exp. Responsible approx. 15,000 ppl. Purchasing/Prod Asst $50K This could be your opportunity to join Great oppty. for exp’d Account Executive for research & dev of fabric trends and a leading International Women’s Apparel to work on very successful branded Jr. Ability to Negotiate Prices with line. Req:2 + yrs. selling to dept stores, print direction in addition to design re- GARMENT TECHNICIAN Production Assistant Oversees Vendors a MUST! company. Joseph Ribkoff Inc. is seek- sponsibilities. Product development Based in Asia at large manufacturing ing an exceptional junior candidate look- must understand retail math and can Menswear Import Company looking Any Handbag Exper a Big + build by door plans and assortments. exp. a plus. Huge growth potential. plant. Versatile individual with knowl- for dedicated & detail oriented produc- Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or ing to embark on a sales career in the Email: [email protected] edge of garment construction and central region of the United States E-mail resume:[email protected] tion assistant. 3+ yrs experience req. e-mail: [email protected] Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 technical aspects related to pattern Fax resume to: 212-840-1626 KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS which include: Iowa, Kansas, Minnesota, making, fitting, manufacturing, and Missouri, Nebraska and Wisconsin. CAD DESIGNER finishing. Must be familiar with wet Large NYC, est’d 30 years, INTIMATE processing and different washes. The ideal candidate should possess the APPAREL CO seeks 2 cad designers following qualifications: with 3-5 yrs exp. Must be super crea- Attractive salary and suitable perks Production Coordinator • Some sales experience would be a tive w/ability to work in fast paced for deserving candidates. Be part of an efficient organized team! QC MGR ...... 50-65K Purchasing, costing, scheduling, im- plus SALES REP environment. Great salary & benefits. Contact : [email protected] NJ Loc Final Inspections Qualified candidates email port and domestic factory liaison. • Ability to travel Maternity Fashion Co. seeks motivat- or [email protected] Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 • Excellent communication skills ed sales professional(s). Immediate op- [email protected] Minimum 4 years experience. Must [email protected] have computer skills, and have excel- • Strong organizational & presentation portunities available. Candidates must Graphic Artist $45-55K. Min 1 yr exp in www.srisearch.com skills have 5 ys exp. & existing relationships CUSTOMER SERVICE REP Illustrator, Photoshop. Able to lent communication and organization- al skills. Health benefits and 401K. We offer an excellent compensation w/dept,specialty, & mass market accts. NYC sleepwear/daywear mfr seeks layout planograms. Sketch on CAD. Must have strong analytical & follow- bright individual to handle order entry, Bergen/ Hudson County, NJ area. Please e-mail resume and salary re- package & great growth opportunities. quirements to: [email protected] E-mail resume to: [email protected] or up skills. Excel, Word, Outlook a plus. allocation, shipping & other day-to-day Email: [email protected] Send resume:[email protected] functions.Great opportunity for a Fax: 514-685-0533 college grad – will train! Must be IMPORT COORD ...... 30-45K Receptionist/Fit Model organized,detail-oriented & proficient NJ Loc Fluent Mandarin Production Design Assistant Light office work in showroom . Must Big Opportunity! SALES SUPPORT in Excel. Submit resumes & salary Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 Major apparel co. seeks experienced be size 5-6 or 7-8. Call: Joe 917-545-4588 Leading Children’s Mfr seeks exp’d reqs to [email protected] [email protected] individual to create production/tech or Email: [email protected] Sales Exec for boys licensed apparel. Major Apparel co. seeks individual with www.srisearch.com packs. Other responsibilities include Must have contacts w/ mid tier & mass 3 years experience. Responsibilities helping prepare worksheets and art market. Fax your resume: 212-695-9721 include following up on orders with DESIGN- Inventory Manager $40-50K. Mdtn co. work pages. Must have knowledge of Must have strong exp in Excel/AS400. buyers and interacting with production, Illustrator and Photoshop. SALES e-mail: [email protected] Asst. Designer - Men’s Min 2 yrs exp in invntry procedures. Please fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 design & sales areas. Must posess excel- Entry level position. Must have strong Fast paced. Email: [email protected] Finan Dir/Ret’l/NJ/Fshn/Frnch req $120k+ Receptionist/Office Assistant Store Mgr/Hi-end jewelry $120k+ lent communication, organizational & Adobe Illustrator skills. Fax resume to: computer skill. Knowledge of AS400 a 212-868-9279 Attn: EFK Marketing Mgr/ Retail exp $125k ITALIAN BI-LINGUAL Production MAXX NEW YORK Corporate Gifts/ Accessories mgr $70k+ plus. Please fax resumes to 212-730-9705 Designer $100-130K. Current exp in Come join the fun and exciting world of young mens denim. Midtown well FABRIC MANAGER $125-150K IMPORT PRODUCTION Handbags! MAXX NEW YORK is seeking known brand. Must hang with Paris [email protected] 212-947-3400 an experienced, hardworking individual SALES EXECUTIVE Blues, Paco, etc. [email protected] ASSISTANT to be the face of our company. You will be Dynamic Int’l Gift & Accessories Co. Fast paced Women’s Apparel Mftgr seeks greeting clients, answering multi-line based in Manhattan offers an excellent Designer $80-90K Strong current exp LC/Import Coordinator an exp’d import person for data entry, phones, data entry, along with day-to-day oppty for an experienced 5 yrs+ sales- in mens sportswear. Will assist head Major Apparel co. seeks individual with tracking, e-mail corresponding & general tasks. Must be a highly organized and person. Must be highly motivated, Successful jeanswear co. seeks exp’d designer w/ interpreting sportswear knowledge of entire process of LC office duties. Must be detailed oriented polished individual with knowledge of detailed with excellent communication sales pro for its new 2-6X division from mens outerwear inspirations. and Production Import. Must be detail w/excellent communication skills. Computer Outlook & Excel. Photoshop is a plus! skills & ability to generate new accounts. Must have relationship w/ private label Mens outdoor fashion vision required. oriented and possess excellent computer literate and able to multi-task a must. Please Fax resume and salary require- Competitive salary & benefits. accounts 3+ years exp. Email resume [email protected] skills. Fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 Fax resume w/salary to 212-714-9355 ments to Tara at: 212-679-0311 Fax res w/cover letter to 212 535-1664 to: [email protected] Now, spray your stubble away. new Spray-On Shower-Off Hair Remover A breakthrough formula. Just spray, shower away, done! Gentle botanicals and vitamins leave skin super-smooth, irresistibly soft, and stubble-free. Lasts days longer than shaving.

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