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C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS OCTOBER 2015 NO. 241 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore NAT BENJAMIN A PASSAGE TO HAITI See story on page 20 OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 BENJAMIN

The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore www.caribbeancompass.com

OCTOBER 2015 • NUMBER 241 KIDO San Blas to Bocas Cruising Panama’s coast ...... 26 DEPARTMENTS One Sweet Hike Info & Updates ...... 4 The Caribbean Sky ...... 34 Up Grenada’s Sugar Loaf ...... 30 Business Briefs ...... 7 Book Review ...... 36

NENCHEVA Eco-News ...... 10 Look Out For… ...... 37 Regatta News...... 14 Cooking with ...... 38 Y2A ...... 19 Readers’ Forum ...... 39 Meridian Passage ...... 28 Caribbean Market Place .....41 Constructed Cat All Ashore ...... 30 Calendar of Events ...... 44 Island waste awareness ...... 13 Cruisers’ Tip ...... 32 Classified Ads ...... 45 SLAVINSKI Seawise ...... 33 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46 OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected], www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Administration...... Shellese Craigg [email protected] [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected]

Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts Cruising Kid Spots Trading Dreams no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. ©2015 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short in the Eastern Caribbean ...... 24 and diving shared ..... 31 excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. ISSN 1605 - 1998

Cover Photo: On the cover, the Charlotte eases down the Windward Passage toward a Haitian landfall, where an unforgettable experience awaits her crew

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.

‘Every issue is full of “Treasure Island”-like adventure — salty characters; sailing adventures and new islands; great practical advice about boats, , engines and places; and best of all, larger-than-life sea gypsies!’ — Stan Louden St. Thomas, USVI

Santa Marta

Cartagena

Click Google Map link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 &Updates Info please notethatthisisnotapracticeofthemanagementTCMP.” assures sive “privateisland”rentalwasUS$2,000to$3,000perday. beach” andthat“nobodyelsewillbethere”.Thepricementionedforsuchexclu- gle day,orlongerifneeded”,andfurthermorethatguestswillenjoya“private middle oftheTobagoCaysMarinePark”isavailablethroughanagency“forasin- have indicatedthatthe“exclusiverentalofJamesby,anuninhabitedislandin Vincent &theGrenadines. within theboundariesofTobagoCaysMarinePark,onlyNationalParkinSt. one’s exclusiveuse. island ofJamesbyintheTobagoCayscannotberented“likeahotelroom”forany- for ,andiswall-to-wallwithlargefishingtrawlerseveryevening. damage, either.Alsothecommercialconcretedockisveryroughandquitehigh the darkisnotunlikely.Thefishermenwouldn’tbepleasedaboutresultingnet throughout thebayseveraltimespernight,andgettingyourboat’spropfouledin boat there,youmightconsidergoingbybusinstead.Fishermensetseinenets west coast.ButcruiserKenGoodingssaysifyou’rethinkingaboutsailingyourown and clearanceforms. www.renaissancemarina.com/clearance-procedures forproceduredetails made anISPS-freesectioninOranjestadportforyachtstoclearthereinstead. However, sincethatharborstartedrenovationin2014,thePortAuthoritieshave However, TobagoCaysMarinePark(TCMP)PublicRelationsOfficer,LesroyNoel, Certain reportsinpublicationsaimedatsuper-yachtsandtheluxury-lifestylemarket All oftheTobagoCays,agrouptinyuninhabitedislandsinGrenadines,are Contrary toarticlescurrentlycirculatinginsomeinternationalmedia,theentire No ‘PrivateIsland’inTobagoCaysPark Fish FridaysareajustlypopulareventintheseasidecityofGouyaveonGrenada’s Watch forNetsinGouyave,Grenada Visit theRenaissanceMarinawebsite A reminder:Untillastyear,yachtsclearedintoArubaatBarcaderaharbor. Clearing inAruba Kaya AtomZ IBS b/v Bonaire Jolly Harbour Star Marine &Barbuda durable andtechnologicallyadvancedsailspossible. Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuildingthefinest, most FOR 5YEARSOR50,000MILES OUR OCEANPLUSSAILSAREGUARANTEED Compass readers,“AsitrelatestothearticlesregardingJamesby‘forrent’, Roseau Center Marine Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Zeilmakerij Harms Curacao Kingston PJG Jamaica True BlueStGeorge Turbulence Sails Grenada Panama City Regency Marine Panama 30 BldAllegre Voilerie DuMarin Martinique

CHRIS DOYLE throughout thecountryareaccessibletopublic. also fallswithintheParkboundaries. the TCMP,exceptforprivatepropertyoninhabitedislandofMayreau,which use (withinParkregulations,ofcourse)Jamesbyandallotherlandseaareas ing lunch.”Otherwise,everyonewhopaystheMarineParkentryfeeisentitledto ensure aparticularbeachisreservedforbriefperiodoftheday,exampledur- There areisolatedcaseswhereweasked,becauseofsecurityconcerns,to from themanagementofTCMP.Othersmaystillenjoythatisland. of picnicking.” fee fortheuseofoneotherislands(Jamesbyincluded)solepurpose Therefore, wedo,uponrequestofthevisitorortheiragent,allowforanadditional tables andchairsarefilled—tocomfortablycaterforallvisitorsthepark. the island’spicnicarea—forexample,whensmallcruiseshipsareinandall Bateau, howevertherehavebeenoccasionswhenisnotenoughspaceon We canallenjoytheviewonJamesbyislandinSVG’sTobagoCaysMarinePark Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas& Moreover, underthenationallawsofSt.Vincent&Grenadines,allbeaches He emphasizes,“Thereisnoexclusivitywhenitcomestotheuseofislands. Mr. Noelnotesthatpermissiontopicniconanotherislandcanonlybeobtained He adds,“Asyoumightbeaware,picnickingisonlyallowedontheislandofPetit [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands Chaguramas AMD Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip Six Crossroads Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix —Continued onnextpage OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 —Continued on next page : , which brought a big load of relief supplies, with , which brought a big load of Three Sheets Meanwhile, “the season will be open!” Hubert assures us. “The moorings in Roseau Meanwhile, “the season will be open!” Hubert assures season, you can still help. If you aren’t lucky enough to be visiting Dominica this account: • Officially endorsed Dominica Government GoFundMe Also, Hands Across the Sea will have a shipment of new books going to Dominica Also, Hands Across the Sea will have a shipment of new • Red Cross of Dominica: www.youcaring.com/red-cross-of-dominica-421257 • Dominica Marine Association Dominica Fire Services personnel and Hubert and Kurt of Dominica Marine Services Dominica Fire Services personnel Mike of the are okay, and in Portsmouth, even though the Indian River ‘came down’, the infra- are okay, and in Portsmouth, even though the Indian River and most of the sites are structure is good. I’ve spoken to the Parks Department and safety. Dive opera- okay.” Hiking trails continue to be assessed for accessibility on September 8th. tors are functional. Commercial flights to the island resumed Cash donations can be made as below: sided, food and water are still needed, since many homes, and indeed entire villag- many homes, and indeed water are still needed, since sided, food and three meals a still living in shelters need and the many people es, were destroyed can help by bringing non-perishable on visiting Dominica day. planning at Send Hubert an inventory water and school supplies. food, drinking duties. Any the waiver of Customs to expedite [email protected] Cross c/o the be labeled “Dominica Red Red Cross should items for the Dominica be copied and the inventory list should Dominica for TS Erika Relief” Government of the most. what’s currently needed Ask Hubert to [email protected]. www.youcaring.com/the-people-directly-affected-by-tropical-storm-erika-423803 toward the costs of books, this month and will gladly accept monetary donations schools set up libraries. shipping and everything that goes into helping Dominica and Make a donation on Hands’ website, www.handsacrossthesea.net/index.htm, library in Dominica. specify that you’d like the funds to go towards a school www.gofundme.com/DA-ErikaReliefFund readers that while the need for clothing and shoes has sub- readers that while the need for clothing and shoes has Compass Continued from previous page Continued from The entry fee to the Tobago Cays Marine Park is EC$10 per person per day; month- Park is EC$10 per person per to the Tobago Cays Marine The entry fee Marine Park. on the Tobago Cays for more information Visit www.tobagocays.org Disturbance Website Tropical Weather with each tropical disturbance, The best website explaining Mark Jensen reports: and bookmark it. Click on www.tropicaltidbits.com Service SSCA High-Frequency Voice (SSCA) is now authorized to operate a Voice The Seven Seas Cruising Association in remote locations who are without cellular and inter- This service will assist cruisers with cruisers active on SSB nets regarding the The SSCA is involved in discussions Please send any suggestions and comments to [email protected]. Yachts Assist in Dominica’s Recovery and fishing boats coming “We’ve had lots of assistance from small vessels, yachts after the storm, the Since Dominica’s main airport was closed for several weeks Hubert tells ly or yearly licenses are available for charter boats. You can pay your park entry fee boats. You can pay your are available for charter ly or yearly licenses on Union at the TCMP Office at Clifton when clearing in there, at Bequia Customs available the Cays. Yacht moorings are Rangers upon arrival in Island, or to Park at EC$45 per day. (but not mandatory) is TropicalTidBits.com. Levi Cowan is a young, hip some information in real time, stuff and how to explain it. Each day during an event dude who knows his weather brilliant. He also gives up to the moment updates he will post a video that is simply on Twitter @TropicalTidBits. the HF radio band under the call sign “KPK”. The FCC Service (not a formal net) on to operate on 8.104, 8.137, and 8.152 MHz. license authorizes the SSCA and emergency information and will help any vessels net access to relay priority radio checks, float plans, telephone contact with fami- needing assistance such as access to medical or mechanical professionals, mari- ly/friends, boat-to-boat relays, to establish this service came from SSCA Board mem- nas, etcetera. The suggestion in for over 30 years, who’s cruised for ten years ber Glenn Tuttle, full-time live-aboard and southwestern Caribbean. All vessels are welcome remote areas of the southern provided by the SSCA. to participate in this service any to conduct this service, and would welcome most effective time and frequency proposed service. comments and suggestions from cruisers regarding this Marine Services, who from neighboring islands,” says Hubert Winston of Dominica on the island, which was has been helping coordinate the delivery of relief supplies the passage of Tropical devastated by landslides and severe flooding owing to businesses left hundreds Storm Erika on August 27th. Damage to homes and local homeless and many without a means of income. in: “In addition to the island relied on boats more than ever for everything coming bringing food and big , the small vessels were doing a lot of work, especially and yacht clubs up and water.” Fundraising events were organized at marinas and Yacht Aid Global facili- down the islands and sailing groups such as the SSCA relief supplies independent- tated supply deliveries by yachts. Other yachts brought Customs waivers and ly, and Dominica Marine Services was instrumental in getting as the Dominica Red Cross. coordinating delivery of the supplies to agencies such — OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 14th to21st,2016. Appreciation Week”ontheislandofDominicaisscheduledtotakeplaceFebruary our audience.Agreatbigthankyoutothejuryforrecognizingefforts!” with thepassiontosharesomethingveryspecial—anditnowcontinuesthrough people ofWindward,Carriacou,whoentrusteduswiththeirstories.Thisfilmbegan Sail... theawardisagreatencouragementnotonlytofilmmakersbutalso all thepeoplethatcontributedtoentiretransmediaprojectisVanishing that contributestoadeepeningunderstandingofCaribbeancultureandlife. award, theCaribbeanSpiritAwardforBestOverallFeatureFilm,isgiventoafilm est honoratthe2015CaribbeanTalesInternationalFilmFestivalinToronto.This of theLesserAntilles,exemplifiedbyiconicCarriacousloops,haswonhigh- antiguanice.com/v2/client.php?id=920&news=8547 Travellers’ Trophysomanytimesthathewasruledineligibletowinitagain. ed inAntigua’sYachtingInsidernewsletter,hewontheCaribbeanSailingAssociation’s Horizon September 4th.Foraquarterofcentury,aboardseriesboatsallnamed James andNicolatheirmanyboatsnamed — The firstannualPortsmouthAssociationofYachtServices(PAYS)“Yachtie ‘Yachtie AppreciationWeek’2016forDominica Visit www.vanishingsail.comformoreinformation. Filmmaker AlexisAndrewssays,“Receivingthisawardisamassivecomplimentto Vanishing Sail,therecentlyreleasedfilmaboutindigenoussailingcargovessels Vanishing Sail‘BestOverall’FilmatTorontoFestival An article,originallypublishedinthe2012 With hispartner,NicolaPears,hecrossedtheAtlanticundersailmorethan30times. One oftheCaribbean’sgreatestracingsailors,JamesDobbs,passedawayon Eight Bells:JamesDobbs Continued frompreviouspage , JameswasadominantforceontheCaribbeanyachtracingcircuit.Asreport- you toDominica PAYS memberswillwelcome Antigua SailingWeekMagazine Lost Horizon canbefoundatwww. (organizer ofthe Hank Schmitt mooring fieldthat tion ofanew brate theinstalla- organized tocele- Week hasbeen Appreciation Dominica. Yachtie industry in the yachting development of by assuringfuture iting yachts,there- and securitytovis- ing yachtservices aimed atprovid- profit organization PAYS isanon- , about Lost Lost Steering CommitteemembersandfoundersofPureGrenadaMusicFestival Angélique Kidjo;andcontemporaryjazzartistEddieBullen. soul singerJossStone;internationalreggaebandSteelPulse;worldmusicsensation and Gouyave. Carenage; andtheMobileStagewillfeaturefreeconcertsintownsofGrenville Stage willbeatCalivignyIsland;theFloatinginSt.George’sHarbour Village andMainStagewillbelocatedonthegreenatPortLouisMarina;VIP and beyondatfourdistinctlocationsfromApril5ththrough10th,2016.TheFestival counted islandtoursandnightlysocials. other sailors. ing inPrinceRupert’sBay,workingwithPAYS,theTourismBoardofDominicaand NARC yachtrallyandCEOofOffshorePassageOpportunities)hasbeenorchestrat- Paint oftheUSonpage44;andSuzukiMarineCaribbean-wide,5. In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! Visit www.grenadamusicfestival.comformoreinformation. Local artisteswillperformalongsideinternationallyrenownedperformersincluding The PureGrenadaMusicFestivalwillshowcasethemusicofisland Plan Ahead:PureGrenadaMusicFestival Visit www.sailopo.com/News.aspxformoreinformation. During YachtieAppreciationWeek,allvisitingyachtswillreceivefreemooring,dis- Good tohaveyouwithus! Caribbean Compass wewelcomenewadvertisersCopperCoat OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 . On PM to 6:00 PM —Continued on next page Marina Santa Marta in Colombia is now hauling boats on a 65-ton travelift and from 2:00 PM PM to 12:00 AM to 5:00 AM

For more information about IGY marinas visit www.igymarinas.com. For more information about Marina Santa Marta contact us at operaciones@ For more information about Marina Santa Marta see ad on page 6. More Certifications at Spice Island Marine Services Susie Grey reports: Spice Island Marine Services in Grenada now have in their ser- For more information about Spice Island Marine Services see ad on page 18. Venezuelan Pick-Up Service from Curaçao Yacht Agency Nicole van Beusekom reports: Attention all Venezuelan yacht owners! Curaçao Our services include shipyard, electricity, water, fuel, showers, free WiFi on docks, Office hours are weekdays from 8:00 Doors also opened for the new Budget Marine BVI Chandlery and superstore in Doors also opened for the new Budget Marine BVI Chandlery ext 1288, Nicole.corvellec@ For more information contact Nicole at (721) 544-5577 see ad on page 2. For information about Budget Marine Caribbean-wide Marina Santa Marta: South America’s Star and only IGY Destination Linda Lucia Linero reports: Marina Santa Marta is the first to be a place of natu- Santa Marta, the oldest city in South America, is privileged can find spectacular Moreover, just ten minutes from Marina Santa Marta you zone. Owing to the The Marina Santa Marta is located well out of the hurricane

Budget Marine is on the Move! Budget Marine in five differ- and expanding in size moving into new buildings Adding new outlets, in Antigua Sound Marine boatyard Marine store in the new North A new Budget BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS marinasantamarta.com.co; [email protected] or visit our new website: www.marinasantamarta.com.co or www.igy-marinasantamarta.com vice Raymarine Certified technicians on site, and a Master Technician as well as ABYC-certified technicians in Electrical Systems, Marine Systems, Diesel Engines and Gas Engines. We’re very proud of our guys’ achievements, as we continue to meet our customers’ needs. Marine offers an service: in cooperation with Curaçao Yacht Agency we can provide you with a trusted and experienced personal project manager. Curaçao Yacht Agency can pick up your yacht from any port in Venezuela (other countries can be considered; contact us for info) and deliver it to Curaçao Marine for dock- ing, maintenance and/or storage. laundry room, security 24/7/365, mini-market, Captain’s Lounge, free shipping agen- cy, pools, gym and restaurants. September. The new Budget Marine chandlery in Nanny Cay Marina is a two-level September. The new Budget Marine chandlery in Nanny the ground floor including building with over 4,000 square feet of retail space on the second floor. Theresa offices and 2,000 square feet of warehouse space on the coming weeks we will be Williams, manager of Budget Marine BVI, stated, “Over us to offer a larger selec- adding more inventory as the increased space will enable tion of products and maintain a larger inventory on-island.” budgetmarine.com and infrastructure. Marina in South America. We are well known for our services destination to enjoy and dis- ral, historical and cultural heritage, making it an ideal of unique ecosystems cover — and later on, to return to. Enriched by its network is a pleasant place with a and beautiful beaches with pristine waters, Santa Marta from the sea the amaz- natural charm. Cruisers can have the pleasure of observing for the local people) coast- ing contrast between the tropical Samaria (a nickname mountains. line and the permanently -capped Sierra Nevada to name just a few, all beaches such as Chengue, Neguanje, and Bahía Concha, of which are ideal places for ecological tourism and watersports. resulting in a dry cli- location of the Sierra Nevada, the tradewinds are modified, maintenance of vessels. mate with minimal salinity, which of favors the ent locations are some of the highlights of Budget Marine Chandleries in 2015. Budget Marine Chandleries are some of the highlights of ent locations of Budget Marine’s third Antigua location in this opened in August. The positioning an outstanding one in the Caribbean. The helps to make the destination outlet provides all the typical boatyard requirements, Budget Marine North Sound products and support material for Antigua’s skilled refit including fasteners, cleaning and electrical contractors, many of whom are spending specialists, joiners, painters time in the North Sound location. an increasing amount of work weekends we are open from 8:00 OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 — sleek, highperformance,fuel-efficient4-stroke outboardsfromSuzukiMarine. day. Eitherway,takealookatBudgetMarine Trinidad’snewlyreceivedrangeof profession, requiringadependablebusinesspartnertomakelightworkoftough feedback [email protected]! er standardandbetterunderstandthereasonforbestpossiblecustomercare. in allourstaff.Theintentionistoinspireandmotivatetheteamperformahigh- of theworkshopwastoboostself-confidence,self-awarenessandself-management — hasattendedathree-dayworkshopheldSeptember9ththrough11th.Thegoal will berevealedinthecomingweeks! incorporated inourstrategygoingforward.Thereisalotonrightnowandall ing andsocialmediaspecialistsgavevaluableinformationadvicethatwillbe market andhelpingtogrowthebusiness.Severalinternationallyrenownedmarket- Tourism Association(GHTA)tostrengthenourcompetitiveness,targetingniche St. LouisandLauraFletcherattendedaworkshophostedbytheGrenadaHotel& specializing inthe5-40kWproductline;marketingdepartmentcomprisingTracy vate skillsinanumberofareas. ways aspossible.Recentlymembershaveattendedprogrammesdesignedtoele- or www.curacaoyachtagency.com. antifouling, painting,woodwork,reconstruction,fiberglassworkandlotsmore. arrange alltheworkyouwouldliketogetdoneonyouryacht,suchasenginerepairs, about theprogress.TogetherCuraçaoYachtAgencyandMarinecan at CuraçaoMarine Curaçao YachtAgencycanmakearrangementstohaveyourboatworkdone Boating maybeyourpastime,providingfreedom,actionandexcitement,or Suzuki 4-StrokeOutboardsNowatBudgetMarineTrinidad For moreinformationonGrenadaMarineseeadpage26. It ishopedthatclientsfeeltheimprovedattitudeandwewouldappreciateany To furtherimproveourcustomerexperience,everyemployee—includingCEO Kelly Lewisfromthemechanicaldepartmentattendedatrainingcourseoffisland, Laura Fletcherreports:GrenadaMarineisallaboutimprovingourstaffinasmany Elevated StaffSkillsatGrenadaMarine For moreinformationonCuraçaoMarineseeadpage27. For moreinformationcontactwww.curacaomarine.com The projectmanagerwilltakecareofyourboatandkeepsyouinformedatalltimes Continued frompreviouspage —Continued onnextpage OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 but the bar is open PM —Continued on page 29 , weighing in at 154 tons Picnic on September 4th, Clarkes Court Boatyard & AM . captain, Pablo Gonzales, stated, “To be the first megayacht to be lifted AM Continued from previous page Continued from From the lightweight sports models to the robust, big power V6 engines and the robust, big power V6 engines sports models to the From the lightweight in Trinidad on Western Main Road visit Budget Marine For more information page 2. see ad on on Budget Marine Caribbean-wide For more information Vincent New Wedding Venue in St. of you yachting/sailor types are thinking of getting mar- Patrick Doyle reports: If any then talk to our wedding coordinator, Check us out at bluelagoonsvg.com Lagoon Hotel and Marina see ad on page 21. For more information on Blue Perkins Parts 20-Percent Discount on Selected a Hurricane Season special offer on selected Perkins Parts and Power announces for more information on this discount. Contact [email protected] and Power see ad on page 8. For more information on Parts St. Vincent Moonlight Nights at Driftwood, Yacht Charters & Marine “AJ” reports: Driftwood Restaurant & Lounge at Barefoot and restaurant are just far access is right onto our party dock, and the bar Driftwood is also open for breakfast daily for that perfect hangover helper starting Driftwood is also open for breakfast daily for that perfect Look for the stone buildings on the north side of the bay when entering. Free moor- Look for the stone buildings on the north side of the bay that full marine services We are located at Barefoot Marine Centre, so don’t forget us at (784) 456-8999. Find us Reservations not needed but always encouraged. Call Centre see ad on page 20. For more information on Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Its Muscles Clarkes Court Boatyard & Marina Boat Lift ‘The Hulk’ Flexes Arlene Telesford reports: At 10:55 News from Puerto Velero, Colombia The facilities at Marina Puerto Velero, Colombia are expected to expand by the end Picnic’s At Clarkes Court Boatyard & Marina it is our aim to provide customer satisfaction, For more information on Clarkes Court Boatyard & Marina This historic moment is not just the beginning of something new for Clarkes Court This historic moment is not just the beginning of something versatile medium range between, customers may order any of the Suzuki range, may order any of the range between, customers versatile medium Suzuki’s inno- options for certain models. tiller handle steering including multi-function are finding acclaim worldwide. Boaters technology has received vative Lean Burn fuel these outboards provide remarkable and faster for less, as they can go farther maintaining power. savings while 634-2006. or phone (868) e-mail [email protected], Chaguaramas, St. Blue Lagoon Hotel and Marina on the south coast of ried, the recently refurbished a popular wedding venue. With the fabulous pool Vincent is already becoming a for the photographs, plus a choice of restaurants, it is area and tropical gardens get Guests can stay in the luxurious rooms and really perfect location for a wedding. into the wedding spirit. Danesha Deane. a massive 20-percent discount on the list prices of engine parts. They’re giving 30th! selected parts until November We invite everyone to Centre is now St. Vincent’s premier Full Moon Party spot. free to dangle your feet in come sit and lime on our dock under the moonlight. Feel cold beers or hard cider, or the water while enjoying one of our signature cocktails, sipping a glass of wine or two. bay. Enjoy appetizer enough up the hill to offer amazing views across Blue Lagoon will be on special as well. specials and drink specials, and our world-famous pizza of the Caribbean”) under Come play Liar’s Dice (the game made famous in “Pirates at 10:00 the full moon. Specials start at dusk; the kitchen closes — until the party stops. at 8:00 ings for parties of four or more purchasing any of our dinner entrees. Always free WiFi ings for parties of four or more purchasing any of our dinner and showers available. owners’ organic locally grown are available. Barefoot even has a boutique with the coffee for sale (supplies are limited). on Facebook at Driftwood Restaurant and Lounge. of the year. Construction has begun for a hardstand area and haul-out equipped with a boat lift. There are currently around 200 berths available, and more to come. The expected increase of yachts to the country will result in increased employment in the yachting sector. was fantastic. Everybody did a very good job.” Performing the haulout was the team from Boat Lift Italy, with Emanuele Desaanso on Operations, along with Niels Lund, Clarkes Court Boatyard & Marina Yard Manager, and his team. Clarkes Court Boatyard & Marina General Manager, Conor Holmes, had high praise for this accomplishment and said, “Our team did a magnificent job.” from the first point of contact right up to when you leave our facility. visit www.clarkescourtmarina.com Marina’s new Boat Lift, known as “The Hulk”, flexed its muscles by lifting its first mega- Marina’s new Boat Lift, known as “The Hulk”, flexed its yacht — a custom 2010-built Monte Fino Motor Yacht, of 6.5 feet. with a length overall of 101 feet, a width of 23 feet and Petite Martinique as the boat- Boatyard & Marina but also for Grenada, Carriacou & with The Hulk’s lifting yard is now in the position to accommodate large yachts maximum width of 40 feet. capacity of 242 tons, maximum draft of 13 feet and a OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10

MARJO AHO nesses, artists,schools,andresidentsofcoastalfishingcommunities. ability totheimpactsofclimatechangeandnaturaldisasters. ing opportunitiesforfishers,supportingsustainabletourism,andreducingvulner- about marineareamanagementbypromotingsustainableuseofresources,improv- and St.Vincent&theGrenadines.Thesecampaignseducatelocalcommunities tries includeAntigua&Barbuda,Dominica,Grenada,St.KittsNevis,Lucia innovative campaignaspartofthe2015ConservationAwards.Participatingcoun- Are” tothebeatoftheircountry’suniquerhythm. ness campaigncompetitionbringscommunitiestogethertosingout“ThisisWhoWe for coastalresidentsinfourseascapesacross fivecountries. grass beds;strengthenfisheriesmanagement, andpromotesustainablelivelihoods (MPAs); reducethreatstotheenvironment includingcoralreefs,mangroves,andsea (CMBP), topromoteconservationinhigh priorityareasacrosstheCaribbean. (USAID) haslaunchedaUS$12.5million CaribbeanMarineBiodiversityProgram fisheries andtourismsectors,theUnited States AgencyforInternationalDevelopment ECMMAN partners,atanAwardCeremonyinNovember. meets-activism contest,“FaceofGrenada”. “Marine ProtectedAreaAwareness”asthe2015themefornationalbeauty- the FishMarketinSt.George’s.Theyworkedwithcreativepartners,anddeclared held theircampaignlaunchwithaMarineProtectedAreasInformationFairoutside and trashbinpaintingcompetitionisplanningafishingcompetition. tations byschoolchildren.ThisJuly,thecampaignteamhostedabeachclean-up Marine Reserve,featuredtraditionaldanceperformancesandenvironmentalpresen- ronment is—economically,sociallyandenvironmentallytoourpeople.” able useofourmarineresources.Italsofocusesonhowmeaningfultheenvi- seeks toengendernationalpride,widespreadstakeholderparticipationandsustain- mance. In-CountryProjectCoordinatorforSVG,TashekaHaynes,said,“Ourcampaign mob inHeritageSquarepromotedmarineawarenesswithasurprisedanceperfor- samples passedoutbyamodelpaintedasanendangeredseaturtle.InJune,flash- mances byMarkCyrus,KeithCurrency,MentalisandNewStarzz,tastedlionfish with theirlisteners. recently, aradiotalkshowfeaturedthecampaignanddiscussedfishingregulations raphy andvideocompetitionsthatexposeimportantissuesinconservation.Most addition toseveralradiotalkshows,thecampaignteamplanshostyouthphotog- within thePointSablesEnvironmentalProtectionAreaonEarthDay,April22nd.In ECMMAN summercampinAntigua,studentspaintedamuralcelebratingmarinelife. HardKnaxs’ versionofthe“ThisisWhoWeAre”campaignthemesong.ThisJuly,atan Fund grantsandenjoyedmusicalperformances,suchaspopularSocaartist and TheNatureConservancypresentedcheckstobeneficiariesofLivelihoodSupport Narrows Awarenessweekwithlocalschools. and anoriginaldanceperformance,“Let’sEatLionfish”.Theteamalsohosteda the NarrowsMarineManagedArea.Theeventfeaturedprizes,remarksfromofficials in the13thannualcross-islandswimfromNevistoSt.Kittsastheycrossedthrough each countryhostedextraordinarycampaignlaunchactivities: leverage additionalsupportthroughpartnershipsandfundraisers.Inrecentmonths, Nature Conservation,BuildingandNuclearSafety. Media Impact,withfundingfromtheGermanFederalMinistryforEnvironment, CARIBBEAN managed areas campaign forEasternCaribbeanmarine ‘ Campaign teamsreachaudiencessuchasgovernmentofficials,tourismbusi- Each ofthesixislandnationsparticipatinginprojectrecentlylaunchedan The EasternCaribbeanMarineManagedAreasNetwork(ECMMAN)publicaware- Eastern CaribbeanMarineConservationCampaignContest The five-yearinitiativeseekstoimprovethe managementofmarineprotectedareas In anefforttoprotectcriticalmarineecosystems andreducethreatstotheregion’s USAID LaunchesRegionalMarineBiodiversity Program Visit www.facebook.com/pages/ECMMANformoreinformation. The winningcountrywillbedeterminedbyapanelofjudges,selectedfrom With tabledisplaysofblackened,spicyandevenlivelionfish,theGrenadateam The Dominicacampaignlaunch,focusedonrecognizingthevalueofCabrits Attendees attheSt.Vincent&Grenadineslaunchlistenedtomusicalperfor- The St.Luciacampaignlaunchedwithanopen-airceremonyatSandyBeach In Antigua&Barbuda,theOrganizationofEasternCaribbeanStatesCommission The St.Kitts&Neviscampaignlaunchedwithalargeeventtocheeronswimmers Each countryreceivedUS$10,000inseedfundingtolaunchtheircampaignand The campaignsreceiveongoingsupportfromNatureConservancyandPCI This iswhoweare!’—anewpublicawareness ECO —Continued onnextpage -NEWS OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11

ELLEN MASSEY-LEONARD as part of S/V Themi Tropicbirds are commonly reported to the Birding Aboard project, perhaps because they have a habit of circling the , but rare birds are reported, too —Continued on next page documented flocks of cattle S/V Fleur de Sel and S/V Gemme about 900 miles east of Antigua. The Trindade Petrel is considered S/V Joyant Continued from previous page Continued from • A 24-year-old who crossed the Atlantic with his father on • In that same fleet, “The reports and photographs that are starting to come in are phenomenal,” says • Two homeschooled children, ages 10 and 11, logged all the birds they saw during ‘SeaBC’ Has Sailors Reporting Unusual Birds on the birds they see at sea Word is getting out among sailors worldwide to report The launch allowed stakeholders, including youth participants, to discuss priori- The launch allowed stakeholders, including youth participants, Cohen further noted that the CMBP supported effective governance of marine Cohen further noted that the CMBP supported effective Providing an overview of the multi-country project, Shelden Cohen, the CMBP’s Shelden Cohen, the CMBP’s Providing an overview of the multi-country project, Describing Carriacou as “one of the few remaining unspoilt spots in the region,” of the few remaining unspoilt spots in the region,” Describing Carriacou as “one Addressing the launch, St. Vincent & the Grenadines’ Minister of Fisheries, Saboto Vincent & the Grenadines’ Minister of Fisheries, Saboto Addressing the launch, St. NGO partners will implement various activities at the local and regional levels, with various activities at the local and regional levels, with NGO partners will implement The CMBP is primarily funded through a USD$10 million investment by USAID, through a USD$10 million investment by USAID, The CMBP is primarily funded “Several reef-building species are acutely endangered or at risk of extinction… are acutely endangered or at risk of extinction… “Several reef-building species He told his audience, which included government Ministers, environmentalists, Ministers, environmentalists, which included government He told his audience, In reiterating the US Government’s commitment to protecting the region’s key to protecting the the US Government’s commitment In reiterating Against the backdrop of the Grenadine island of Carriacou, United States island of Carriacou, backdrop of the Grenadine Against the egrets in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, over a thousand miles from or South America. The cattle egret has had one of the most wide-reaching and rapid expansions from its native range in Africa, spreading northward through South and North America since first sighted in Guiana in 1877. They are presumed to have flown across the Atlantic Ocean, given that immature cattle egrets will disperse up to 3,100 miles from their breeding area. So Lanzarote to Martinique (the Atlantic Odyssey’s passage) is just a jump across the pond! founder Diana Doyle. “Inexpensive portable zoom cameras let scientists tap into the sightings of recreational boats as they transit seldom-birded waters. They can be our eyes on the water.” Because there is so little coverage of pelagic areas, the odds are high for a “birder aboard” to contribute a notable sighting. Here are a few examples: their two-week transatlantic, scoring a Red-billed Tropicbird and Masked Booby closer to Cape Verdes than to their expected stronghold in the Caribbean. vulnerable, with uncertain global population and range. the Atlantic Odyssey fleet, captured stunning photographs of a Trindade Petrel about 1,000 miles east of Martinique. A Trindade Petrel also was reported independently by — and they are spotting some unusual birds, from the Caribbean to the Arctic’s — and they are spotting some unusual birds, from project coordinated by long- Northwest Passage. The “SeaBC” is a citizen science Reports are added to Cornell distance birdwatching sailors from around the world. sightings become a resource University’s eBird database (www.ebird.org), so boaters’ is designed to be simple for scientists and conservationists worldwide. Participation They are simply asked to for non-birders juggling navigation and boat-handling. followed by a snapshot of photograph any birds seen at least two miles from shore, is not geo-tagged. their navigation display’s coordinates if their camera ties and determine strategies for moving forward. resources in order to foster long-term conservation of marine life and biodiversity; resources in order to foster long-term conservation of marine environment; and to maintain economic benefits derived from a healthy to targeted marine sites. improve the well-being of local communities adjacent Chief of Party, said its focus was on promoting healthy marine environments and marine environments and Chief of Party, said its focus was on promoting healthy members. “Human the associated tangible benefits for fishers and community can’t emphasize that enough,” benefits are really at the heart of this program, and I he stressed. Grenada’s Fisheries and Environment Minister, Roland Bhola, lamented that Bhola, lamented that Grenada’s Fisheries and Environment Minister, Roland “rapidly destroying ” our through our everyday activities as humans, we were natural environment. Caesar, said the initiative sought to ensure that “Mother Nature is protected and that to ensure that “Mother Nature is protected and Caesar, said the initiative sought St. some of the resources that we enjoy today. In generations to come can enjoy are moving towards private/public sector joint venture Vincent & the Grenadines we further explore our marine resources. But in our quest enterprises to ensure that we the states, we have to ensure that we do not take to develop as small multi-island conclusions; it is very easy to do so,” he cautioned. word exploitation to illogical CARIBSAVE and Sustainable Grenadines working in the Grenadine Bank. CARIBSAVE and Sustainable with an additional USD$2.5 million contribution by The Nature Conservancy (TNC), million contribution by The Nature Conservancy (TNC), with an additional USD$2.5 charged with its implementation. which leads an NGO consortium Economic sectors like tourism and fisheries, which depend heavily upon the quality and fisheries, which depend heavily upon the quality Economic sectors like tourism are particularly affected,” noted Ambassador Palmer. of the marine environment, and other key stakeholders, that while the Caribbean region had been described as that while the Caribbean region had been described and other key stakeholders, was biodiversity centers, the region’s biodiversity one of the world’s most important rate”, with coral reef coverage reduced by nearly one- being degraded “at an alarming third since the 1980s. marine areas, Ambassador Palmer emphasized, “While we appreciate the tremen- “While we appreciate Ambassador Palmer emphasized, marine areas, it is currently we are very mindful that of this Grenadine seascape, dous beauty under threat.” Ambassador to Barbados, the Eastern Caribbean, and the Organization of Eastern and the Organization Barbados, the Eastern Caribbean, Ambassador to the Grenadine 21st, officially launched Larry Palmer, on August Caribbean States of the CMBP. Bank component — OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12

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Photograph by Ferenc Máté — Grenadines SeascapeProject. Development, viaTheNatureConservancy CaribbeanMarineBiodiversity— emphasizing theimportanceofteamwork andpeersupporttofostersuccess. Junior Rangerstofullyparticipateinthe programandtobecomethebesttheycan, Executive DirectorofSusGren,OrishaJoseph. dren tolearnopenupnewcareeroptions inenvironmentalfields,”saidActing exchanges andthepotentialforPADIdive certificationandfortheparticipatingchil- The RangerswillmeeteveryotherSaturdayforthenextyear. by aSteeringCommittee,whoseresponsibilitiesincludetheselectionofparticipants. of HELP:Heal,Explore,LearnandProtect.TheJuniorRangerProgramisoverseen andcommunityoutreachwhichisaptlycapturedthroughtheprogramslogan teaching ofbasicskillsintopicspersonaldevelopment,environmentalsteward- activities withinteractiveclassroomsessions. sonal developmentskillsthroughahands-on-basedapproachcombiningoutdoor opportunity tobecomeeducatedonenvironmentaltopicsandgainadditional per- Ranger Program.Theprogram’scurriculumgiveschildrenagedtenthrough13an transboundary NGO,SustainableGrenadinesInc(SusGren)launcheditsJunior Junior RangerPrograminSt.Vincent&theGrenadines. dedicated specificallytofinancingprotectedareasmanagement. Fund, hasbeenlegislatedandimplemented. Additionally, amechanismforsustainablefinancing,theBahamasProtectedArea increased itssubventiontotheBahamasNationalTrustin2015budget. bird areas. ing aggregations,coralreefs,seagrassmeadows,mangrovenurseries,andimportant Tract NationalPark Company holdings),HogstyReefProtectedArea Stakeholders; allGrandBahamaParksexcludeDevelopment Park expansion(furtherconsultationsarebeingheldwiththekeyGrandBahama Bahama NationalPark,LucayanParkExpansion,PetersonCay Cay SalMarineManagedArea Acklins NationalPark Cross HarbourNationalPark,SouthAbacoBlueHolesPark tions toTheBahamas’protectedareassystemare: undergone scientificassessmentandextensivecommunityoutreach.Thenewaddi- area system,aimingattheprotectionof2.5millionhectares.Thesenewareashave protected areasforTheBahamas”,whichwillexpandthecountry’smarine Environmental FacilityFull-SizedProject,“Buildingasustainablenetworkofmarine protecting 20percentofitsnear-shoreandmarineenvironmentby2020. 2002, andin2008acceptedtheCaribbeanChallengeInitiativecommittedto Convention onBiologicalDiversityin1993,doubleditsprotectedareasystem the ExumaCaysLandandSeaPark—nationbecameasignatoryto Planet Odyssey. Environmental ProgrammeoftheOceanCruisingClub,andaProjectBlue are notall“stormwaifs.” evidence thattinysongbirdsareabletomigratelongdistancesovertheoceanand tin, northernflicker,andblackpollwarbler.Thesesightingsreinforcerecenttracking bobolink, golden-crownedkinglet,barnswallow,mangroveCaribbeanmar- Birding Aboardproject.Therearealsoreportsofhitchhikinglandbirds,suchasthe graphs ofdifficult-to-identifyshearwatersandalbatrosses—makeupthebulk birds, boobies,noddies,gulls,terns,auks,puffins,fulmars—alongwithphoto- sites, manyreportshavenotablyhighcountsofcommonspecies.Reportstropic- lar sightingsholdequalvalue.Becauseboaterspassbyinaccessibleislandnesting Parasitic Jaeger,andCory’sShearwater. to himfromhisnorthernhomeport.TheseincludedtheGreatSkua,Pomarineand Pelerin The programisbeingfundedthroughthe UnitedStatesAgencyforInternational Kenneth Williams,theManagerofTobago CaysMarinePark,encouragedthe “I havehighhopesandplansforthe program inthefuture—addingisland The mainobjectiveoftheprogramistofosteryouthempowermentthrough On August12th,attheAshtonLearningResourceCentreonUnionIsland,local Fourteen youthsfromUnionIslandwillbethefoundingpillarsoffirst-ever First JuniorRangerPrograminSt.Vincent&theGrenadines The Bahamasisthefirstcountrytoenactlegislationestablishingalegaltrustfund The governmentofBahamas,realizingthecostmanagingprotectedareas, These newareaswillconserveandprotecthabitatforgrouperbonefishspawn- • InGreatExuma:ExpansionofMoriahHarbourCayNationalPark. • InNewProvidence:SouthwestProvidenceMarineManagedArea,Perpall • InMayaguana:BoobyCayNationalPark • InGrandBahama:TheNorthShore-GapNationalPark,East • InAndros:AndrosGreenCayNationalPark,TheJoulterCays • InCrookedIsland/Acklins:SoutheastBahamasMarineManagedArea,Bightof • InAbaco:TheMarlsofAbacoNationalPark,EastCreeks In recentyears,thegovernmentofTheBahamashasbeenimplementingGlobal Beginning in1958withthecreationoffirstlandandseaparkworld— The Bahamascontinuestobealeaderinprotectedareadesignation. The BahamasPioneersMPAsandTheirFinancing Visit www.birdingaboard.orgformoreinformation. The SeaBCisaCleanWakeProjectoftheSevenSeasCruisingAssociation,an Although themajorityofSeaBCreportsarenotflaggedaseBirdrarities,regu- •BirdingAboardadvisorandUKmarineconservationistColinSpeedieon Continued frompreviouspage sailedthroughtheLesserAntilles,onlytospotseveralnotablebirdscommon S/V OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13

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• 3 Rs (Reuse Recycle Reduce) Plastic flag and its Recycle Reduce) Plastic flag • 3 Rs (Reuse plywood of waste cuts of exterior • , built lines, from a torn • ropes and tying leftover tins a • underwater epoxy, from two booms, from former • two tillers, and two light intense passion for • the long work hours and The prototype, aptly named For more information visit http://kidoplanet.com.

fiberglass stick, from a discarded camping tent from a discarded camping fiberglass stick, in Grenada donated by Turbulence Sails used to plug decade old found in a storeroom, holes in the PVC frame generation battens off a discarded first delta-plane wing were not wasted at all! this project were ours and was barely completed Carriacou Sailing Regatta, sailed her five-kilometre maiden trip to regatta sailed her five-kilometre maiden where she had headquarters at Hillsborough, cell phone cameras heads turning with curiosity, visitors rethinking their clicking away and Regatta plastic waste. options about littering and

m m o o c c . . w w o o n n 758 452 4094 a a i i c c 33 1 45 32 0254 u u l l t t s s . . w w w w w Saint Lucia: w France: • a crab-claw sail, adapted from a former sailboard donated by Teena-Marie of sailboard donated by Teena-Marie sail, adapted from a former • a crab-claw from leftover tins • paints, salvaged here and rows to the frame, collected line bits to strap the bottle • nylon fishing Drop Anchor and Escape Anchor Drop telephone cable found littering the roadsides found littering the roadsides telephone cable Kaya and her junior sailor son, Pizza Meh Heart with Cameras clean-ups with Kids there during beach by Marina Fastigi Pollution Highlights Highlights Plastic Kids’ Cat Kids’

The island of Saint Lucia was made for seafaring – or perhaps it’s the other way around. The prevailing The island of Saint Lucia was made for seafaring – or perhaps it’s breathtak- Saint Lucia’s it’s warm and soothing northeast trade winds provide ideal sailing conditions. Yet, ing scenery that attracts the finest yachts from around the world. Drop anchor near the majestic peaks of Petit and Gros Piton. Rodney Bay invites a night on the town. Or choose Marigot Bay for a chic excursion. Must-see dive spots abound, and there are plenty of hidden bays where you’ll create your own Caribbean mystique. Of course, no getaway would be complete without exploring the luxurious side of Saint Lucia through its restaurants, shopping, and resorts. Immerse yourself in a luxe yachting adventure in simply beautiful Saint Lucia. uring a weekly session of Kids with Cameras Carriacou at KIDO session of Kids with Cameras uring a weekly Donell and Anthony, active Youth Center, youth members Environmental and a project for members keeping Carriacou clean, proposed supporters of

made from lengths of discarded outdoor • rigging made from lengths • a tube of waterproof sealant, donated by • a tube of waterproof sealant, • quarter-inch plywood, donated by Paddy’s • quarter-inch plywood, donated • a triangular mast, recycled from the high-ten- • a triangular mast, recycled • several yards of two-inch PVC pipes and joints, • several yards of two-inch • over 650 empty Summer Juice bottles, almost • over 650 empty Summer Weeks later the following materials were found, following materials were Weeks later the D Carriacou Marine Enterprises sile aluminum handlebar of a former sile aluminum handlebar of amphibious ultralight re-cut from a discarded puppet theatre frame re-cut from a discarded puppet all collected by the Summer Juice producers in all collected by the Summer setting up waste- Grenada, who linked with KIDO their customers bottle collection points with the Grenada throughout the island, including cut and glued togeth- Yacht Club. The bottles were floating devices to be er to form several nine-foot and deck frame. attached to the PVC pipe hulls donated or recovered: staff to build a unique small sailing boat to raise awareness of island waste and ocean raise awareness of island unique small sailing boat to staff to build a 27th through Regatta, held July at the 50th Anniversary Carriacou plastic pollution entirely built of sailing to be agreed on a ten-foot August 3rd. Consensus impor- waste materials, most recycled and reusable curse of plastic bottles — the tantly using discarded in the Grenadines.our beautiful beaches OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 and OlympicsailorTerryNeilson. plied newsails,withfittings,linesandrepairmaterialsdonatedbyBudgetMarine Association, andIslandViewSailingCenterFund.JeffFisherofNeilPrydeSailssup- with donationsfromCamper&NicholsonsPortLouisMarina,theGrenadaSailing Gouyave. Theboats,basedonthepopularOptimistdesign,havebeenpurchased at theeasternendofClarkesCourtBay,sailMosquitodinghiesbuiltintown took part,andthenextstepistoopenupanotherweeklysessionformorechildren. mornings, tobuildontheskillsandenthusiasmevidentinyoungpeoplewho Budget Marinewereawardedattheend.TheprogramiscontinuingonSaturday aged fromsevento15andmanywerebeginnerssailing.Prizesdonatedby experience ininstruction,ledtheweeklongprogram.Participatingchildrenwere Kevin Banfield,whoworkswithGouyaveSailingSchoolandhasovertenyears’ dren tookpartinasummersailingprogramfromJuly27thto31st.SeniorInstructor REGATTA NEWS The program’sWoburnWindWarriors,basedatPetitCalivignyMarinainBenjiBay Junior dinghysailinghasreturnedtoGrenada’svillageofWoburn,where18chil- Junior SailingReturnstoWoburn,Grenada Win yourskipper’s weight inMountGayRumExtraOld Join usforBarbados’ultimatesailing challenge The OceanPassageRacetoAntigua The MountGayRoundBarbadosRace Three spectaculardaysofcoastalcourse racing The 80thAnniversaryMountGay RoundBarbadosRaceSeries January 16th-24th2016 www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com Mount GayRumRound BarbadosRace

MCMANUS SUPERBOATS nautical miles,atanaveragespeedofabout73milesperhour. utes. The established anewFlorida-to-Cubamarinespeedrecordofonehourand30min- McManus andmechanicJohnPompi,FrenchnavigatorDamienSauvage, contact [email protected]. de Vanille,MariaRosa Brett andcrewsfromyachts program withtheirtimeandskills:RolfHoschtialek,NinaWolf,RogerAdams,Steve Solutions, XMarine,PricklyBayMarina,andthemanyvolunteerswhosupported a sustainableJuniorSailingClubinWoburn.” grateful tothebusinesseswhohaveenabledusre-startthisprogramandbuildup we havetoprovideopportunitiesforouryouthdeveloptheseskills.Wearevery ors themselves.TheyachtingindustryinGrenadaneedsmarineandsailingskills port JuniorSailinginWoburn,especiallygiventhekeenresponsefromjuniorsail- Carriacou, Woburnislookingforwardtotakingpartinnationaleventsandregattas. the GrenadaYachtClubandGouyave,atHarveyValeWindwardin floating platformtoenablesafelaunching. build storagefacilitiesfortheboatsandrigsextenddinghydockwitha Meyerer ofDriftwoodFineYachtWoodworkutilizednewandreclaimedmaterialsto to beanexcellentbaseforjuniorsailing.AteamofvolunteersledbySteffen gram tooperateaspartoftheGrenadaSouthCoastYachtClub,andithasproved On August1st,GermanskipperRogerKlüh,accompaniedbyUSco-pilotMark New Florida-to-CubaSpeedRecord To supporttheWoburnWindWarriors In additiontothebusinesssponsorsabove,clubwouldlikethankUnderwater Jacqui PascalloftheGrenadaSailingAssociationsaid,“Wearedelightedtosup- With thrivingJuniorSailingprogramsoperatingatGrenadaMarineinSt.David’s, Roger andClaireSpronkofferedtheirmarinainBenjiBayasavenueforthepro- Apache Star poweredfromKeyWesttoHavanaHarbor,adistanceof110 and New Horizons Cocolo, Pontea,Tao,LilyMaid,Argo,Dixi-rollar,Gousse . race series round barbados —Continued onnextpage 2016

OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

Callaloo and —Continued on next page start from Carriacou to race back start from Carriacou the PCYC Round to Grenada in Grenada Regatta Adleme, Tulaichean II Adleme, Tulaichean The Petite Calivigny Yacht Club is a small yacht club with surprisingly big achieve- The Petite Calivigny Yacht Club is a small yacht club with round-the-cans racing, There is obviously a yearning for something different to the leeward side ofBoats could choose to sail up the windward side and down In 2009, facing ongoing competition from the well-entrenched Bequia Easter the well-entrenched Bequia ongoing competition from In 2009, facing Until now. ments since it was formed in 2010, the latest of which was to pull off a successful ments since it was formed in 2010, the latest of which was Regatta, held August revival of this time-honored event. The PCYC Round Grenada — despite being held in 22nd and 23rd, drew nine monohulls and three in a very short time. the off season, threatened by and organized enthusiasm. PCYC orga- because sailors and sponsors supported this regatta with at Le Phare Bleu on the nized a fun round-the-island regatta, starting and finishing layover night in Tyrell Bay, south coast of Grenada, and added a twist — an inviting all the stops to make cap- Carriacou, where Carriacou Marine Services pulled out tains and crew feel welcome. making for much strategiz- Grenada, or up the leeward and down the windward side, the rules. The result wasing and not a little headache for the race committee setting of which flew spinnakersa mix of racers, racer/cruisers and cruising boats — many is possible in shorter races.with minimal crew, having a more leisurely time frame than two days of short-course racing and preceded by a feeder race from Trinidad. by a feeder race from racing and preceded two days of short-course to a pre-Easter were moved once more, Grenada Race dates Regatta, the Round again… the event eventually lapsed time slot, and , and C Sea Bon C Sea Bon ZZZJUHQDGDVDLOLQJZHHNFRP  , powered by twin 300-horse- was designed and built in Fort was designed Tooky 5DFLQJ 5DFHU&UXLVHU - &UXLVLQJ &ODVVLF crossed a finish line between crossed a finish line between Apache Star , the vessel won the 1992 and 1993 world , the vessel won the 1992 and Apache Star capitalizing on momentum from the previous week’s

magazine, about ten miles out from Havana, the boat hit a ten miles out from Havana, magazine, about magazine, “The team had no idea what to expect when it magazine, “The team had “In October 1968 (or it might have been ’69) I thought, seeing all “In October 1968 (or it might have been ’69) I thought, is a Kevlar and carbon fiber Deep-V race boat capable of carbon fiber Deep-V race is a Kevlar and

Boating Boating Apache Heritage Apache Star Continued from previous page Continued from As reported in As reported in The According to José Miguel Díaz Escrich, Commodore of the Club Náutico Internacional José Miguel Díaz Escrich, Commodore PCYC Revives Round Grenada Tradition that’s irresistible. There’s something about racing around the island of Grenada Don Street writes, The previous Florida-to-Cuba speed record reportedly dates back to August 1958, speed record reportedly dates back to August 1958, The previous Florida-to-Cuba Read the full story at www.boatingmag.com/apache-star-sets-new-florida-to- Until 2002. In early February 2002, submerged object and tore off the starboard drive. The co-pilot kept the starboard drive. The co-pilot kept and tore off the starboard submerged object bilge and three 2,500-gallon-per-hour at idle to help power the steering engine running per hour. the boat on plane at 55 miles the port engine to keep pumps, and used — speeds in excess of 100 miles per hour. Twin Mercury Racing bi-turbo engines gener- Mercury Racing bi-turbo of 100 miles per hour. Twin speeds in excess 2,700 horsepower. The ate a total of Myers by Mark McManus, owner of McManus Superboats. The craft is considered Superboats. The craft McManus, owner of McManus Myers by Mark The team rather than standing crew. racing vessel with seated the first high-speed including neck braces, elbow and kneepads and wore protective safety equipment strapped in with five-point safety harnesses. In its for- Kevlar kidney belts, and were mer life as the racing championships. arrived in Havana, but the sight of more than 10,000 people lining up just to see the sight of more than 10,000 people lining up just to see the arrived in Havana, but the to touch the bright orange hull and take a photo American boat and team and ‘When we arrived at the dock, people were was more than the crew expected. said.” and chanting,’ McManus there to greet them aboard the motor vessel Hemingway de Cuba, was taking the official time as the buoy at the entrance to the harbor. the buoy at the entrance to the Prowler launch when Forest Johnson drove the 254 miles from Miami to Havana in six hours, power Crusader Cadillac engines, for an average speed of 42 miles per hour. 24 minutes and 40 seconds cuba-speed-record Week), the Boatyard Grenada Sailing Festival yacht races (now Grenada Sailing the First Annual Round Restaurant and Spice Island Marine Services organized of going “clockwise” or Grenada Challenge. Twelve boats raced, with the choice of years later, the organizers “counterclockwise” left up to each skipper. A couple date had been moved to had formed the Grenada South Coast Yacht Club, the into the Round-the-Island the long Easter weekend and the event was expanded Race bracketed by Easter Regatta, a three-day event with the Round-the-Island the big charter boats in St. George’s Lagoon, why not have a Round the Island the big charter boats in St. George’s Lagoon, why not boats would have finished Race? We had it on the first Sunday in January, as most up on the starting line. their Christmas/New Year charter. Thirty-three boats showed the race date to the third But in the fifth year, a committee took over and moved and the Round Grenada Sunday in January, when all the charter boats were busy, made to revive it, but all Race died within one or two years. Various attempts were attempts gathered only a small fleet of mostly local boats…” OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 Caribbean toattendtheconference,SailorsforSeaalsoofferedgrantsthose cesses intheirprogramsaswellchallengestheyhaveovercome. will hearfrompastandpresentCleanRegattaorganizerspartnersaboutsuc- around theworldaredoingandhowCaribbeanenvironmentischanging.We will discussthesetopicsfromavarietyofperspectivesincludingwhatotherregattas the sailingindustrycanbeadrivingforceforoceanprotection.Breakoutsessions they’re important,growingyourevent,Caribbeanenvironmentalissuesandhow lines fortheirgreenefforts.” back yearafteryear.Regattaeventscanbecomelarger,cleanerandmakehead- work thatenablesorganizationstoconservetheresourceskeepsailorscoming thing thatcomeswithincreasedmarinebusiness.CleanRegattasprovidesaframe- destination forwinterracingandthefragilemarineresourcesarestressedbyevery- long-term communitychangewhileimprovingourislandenvironments. how thesailingindustryanditseventscanbeleadersinmarinefieldbycreating and assistingregattaorganizers,yachtclubsotherorganizationstounderstand seminars atthe2015ConferencefocusedonCaribbeansailingandsustainability, the CSAAnnualConferenceinAntigua,SailorsforSeawillhostasetofshort Conference, whichwilltakeplaceOctober23rdthrough25thinSt.Maarten. sponsorship oftheCSAforanotheryear.ThiscoincideswithAnnual leading oceanconservationnonprofitservingthesailingindustry,willextendits sport andworkforce/entrepreneursofthemarineindustry. ing isseenasagrass-rootsentrytodeveloptheyouthintofuturesailorsof tor arenowlookingtogrowwithintheFederationofSt.Kitts&Nevis,andyouthsail- sport ofsailingwithemphasisonyouthprograms.Sailingandthemarinesec- IODA islookingtoexpandstillfurtherjuniorsailingprogramsintheregion. have participatedinrecentIODAchampionships.SKNhopetojointhemshortlyand hold aregionalOptiregattainSKNthefuture.TwelveCaribbeanassociations Kitts andNevis. Six olderOptimistsarebeingrefurbished.Thisbringsatotalof27onSt. builder FarEast,thenewOptimistswillbeallocatedtotwoclubsonislands. order grewto15boats,twoofthemdonatedbyIODA.SuppliedShanghai negotiated bytheInternationalOptimistDinghyAssociation(IODA),initial islands. Withthehelpoflocalfundraisinganddiscountsfornationalmembers to-date equipmenttogetitsyoungsailorsonaparwiththoseofmoreestablished joined theInternationalSailingFederationin2014andidentifiedneedforup- regatta-2015-results. pcycgrenada.com. Forfullresultsvisithttp://pcycgrenada.com/round-grenada- this mostenjoyableeventannually.Longmayitreign! Sunshine Hard Jeff Rose’s48-footSwan, 460, 37, leeward side.Butrevengeissweetandcomingbackdown,ChampieEvans’sElan ward sidefirst,thusavoidingthebigholethatplaguedrestoffleeton — To assistthemanysmallerregattas,clubsandnon-profiteventsfromaround This year,attentionwillbefocusedonhowtocreatesustainabilityinitiatives,why R. MarkDavis,PresidentofSailorsfortheSeasays,“TheCaribbeanisultimate Following lastyear’ssuccessfulsponsorshipandamarineenvironmentalseminarat The CaribbeanSailingAssociation(CSA)announcesthatSailorsfortheSea, Sailors fortheSeaatCSAConference ON THEHORIZON… For [email protected]. SKNSA seesitsroleasassistingandfacilitatingmemberclubstodevelopthe Instructor training,alsosponsoredbyIODA,isplannedandtheSKNSAhopesto The St.Kitts&NevisSailingAssociation(SKNSA),headedbyPresidentMarkTheron, Fifteen newOptimistsrecentlyarrivedinSt.Kitts&Nevistopromotejuniorsailing. Optimists ArriveinSt.Kitts&Nevis For moreinformationaboutthePCYCandRoundGrenadaRegatta,visitwww. Sponsors andparticipantsapplaudedPCYC’sinitiativepromisedtosupport On theupwardleg,first,secondandthirdplacesamongmonohullswentto Continued frompreviouspage Julie Rule; Desire, ; andJasonFletcher’s36-footAlbinStratus , sailedsinglehandedlybyKenWolfel,cameoutontop. placedfirst,secondandthird.Inthecatamarans, MikeBingley’s38-footBeneteau, Roxie ; RobbieYearwood’sJ/24, Apero Tulaichean II , allofwhomchosethewind- IslandWaterworldDie ; andFrikKotze’sHunter

Leopard 47, off thewater! Volvo 70sandeverythinginbetween.JoinusJanuaryforagreatregattaon for thosewishingtocharterthere’samultitudeofpossibilitiesrangingfromJ/24s the homeofrum,MountGaydistillery! Polo MatchandofcoursenovisittoBarbadoswouldbecompletewithoutatrip and alloffertheultimateprize:yourskipper’sweightinMountGayExtraOldRum. to breakrecordsin13differentclasses(size,one-design,single-anddouble-handed) other, thereissomethingforallsailorstoenjoy. Passage RacetoAntigua,allofwhichcanbeenteredindependentlyeach Coastal Racing,the60-nautical-mileRoundBarbadosRaceanda300-mileOcean Series willbeheldfromJanuary16thto24th,2016.Withthreedaysofinshore visit [email protected]. pate intheracingoffReduitBeachRodneyBay. Club, willtakeplaceonNovember28thand29th.Fiveclassesofvesselspartici- own communities.” individuals oftheregiontolearnfirst-handhowtheycanimpactchangeintheir the conferenceiswonderfulandwillexpandopportunityfororganizers of thatnetwork.Itsinitiativetoofferfinancialassistancehelpmoreeventsattend we appreciatethatanorganizationlikeSailorsfortheSearecognizesstrength hard tohelpcoordinateandpromotesailingintheentireCaribbeanregion, support thatSailorsfortheSeaisprovidingnextyear.TheCSAworksvery in needoffinancialassistance. For moreinformationseeadonpage14. There’ll beagreatline-upoflocalandinternationalyachtscompetingin2016, Off thewaterthere’sfunforallfamilywithaspecialLayDayexhibitionRegatta The signatureRoundBarbadosRaceonJanuary21stgivescompetitorsthechance Alene Krimholtzreports:The80thanniversaryMountGayRoundBarbadosRace 80th AnniversaryMountGayRoundBarbadosSeries For thefullitinerary,NORandentryformsforMangoBowl2015, The fourthannualSt.LuciaMangoBowlRegatta,hostedbytheYacht St. LuciaMangoBowlforNovember For fulldetailsoftheCSAAnnualConferencevisitwww.csaconference.org. To learnmoreaboutSailorsfortheSeavisitwww.sailorsforthesea.org. Of thisinitiativeCSAPresidentPeterHolmbergsays,“Wearedelightedwiththe —Continued onnextpage OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 for more information, NOR and online registration.

Barbados to Host OK Class Worlds in 2017 events, recently Barbados continues to build its sailing calendar with world-class 100 of the world’s best The OK Class World Championship is expected to attract attributed the win to the Barbados Tourism Marketing Inc. CEO, William Griffith, time, two international The year 2017 will also see Barbados hosting, for the first Worlds Championship Next year will see the island hosting the GP14s Barbados CSA, Bareboat and Lottery Classes give all yachts that want to race the opportuni- CSA, Bareboat and Lottery Classes give all yachts that Visit www.heinekenregatta.com For the 2016 edition, there will be two new classes. One will be for Former Volvo/ classes. One will be for Former there will be two new For the 2016 edition, winning the bid over Germany for the right to host one of the world’s leading yacht- winning the bid over Germany for the right to host one ing events in 2017. to travel with their families sailors to compete in Carlisle Bay. These sailors are known to local accommodation and companions, a trend that will be of direct benefit industry players. providers, restaurants, car rental companies and other hosting the event in critical support of partners, who have helped to make to build on our strong repu- Barbados an irresistible proposition. “We will continue yachting circuit,” he says, tation as a preferred host country on the international in 2010, which was “having already hosted the Fireball Barbados Worlds International Barbados followed by our most successful event to date, the 505 Worlds in 2013.” play host to the Finn yachting competitions in one year, as the island will also class of heavier dinghies as Masters Worlds. That event will feature races among a the latter event will attract seen in the Summer Olympic Games. It is expected that and friends. Together, as many as 200 boats and some 500 sailors and their families is expected to wel- with the arrivals projected for the OK Class Worlds, Barbados period. come over 800 visitors to the island over a three-week already been a record num- 2016 and the Seaview Class events. To date there has followed later in the year by ber of entries for the GP14s Worlds event. These will be of Barbados’ 50th the “Barbados 50 - A Sailing Odyssey”, in commemoration Independence Anniversary Celebrations. ty to compete against similar boats. are also a large part of the regatta ty to compete against similar boats. Multihulls are also the largest fleet in line-up, with the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta having to the event and partici- the Caribbean. Final class allocation will be done closer registrations are final. pants will be able to size up their competition once all Whitbread boats and the other is for Beach Cats. It has been over ten years since the Cats. It has been over ten and the other is for Beach Whitbread boats course but orga- will not only have their own beach cats. In 2016 they regatta included Class queries. to handle all Beach Cat a separate race committee nizers are planning Continued from previous page Continued from New Classes at St. Maarten Heineken Regatta Heineken Regatta, Regatta participants can now enter the 2016 St. Maarten Register and pay by November 30th and for just US$90 you can be on the start line Register and pay by November 30th and for just US$90 making sure you have a Title sponsor Island Water World is firmly committed to a newsletter, contact info@ Check www.grenadasailingweek.com and sign up for For more information see ad on page 15. Doors Open for Antigua Sailing Week 2016 April 23rd through 29th, Registration is now open for the 49th Antigua Sailing Week, long-distance races that are Antigua Sailing Week 2016 starts with two stand-alone April 29th with the AntiguaAntigua Sailing Week starts on April 24th and concludes for the provisional race Visit www.sailingweek.com/v4/schedule/event-schedule Registration Open for Grenada Sailing Week Registration Open Sailing Week, Water World Grenada is now open for the Island Online registration March 3rd through 6th. The online registration is simple and easy to use and can be March 3rd through 6th. The online registration is simple is also online and can be accessed via the regatta website. The Notice of Race downloaded along with the Safety and Bareboat rules. for four days of competitive sailing off the beautiful western and southern coasts of for four days of competitive sailing off the beautiful western Grenada and enjoy six nights of lively entertainment ashore. islands, where the sailing great time in Grenada, one of the safest and friendliest J/24, Cruising and Classic conditions are hard to beat. With Racing, Racer/, flying to the fun loving. Classes, there is something to suit everyone, from the fast grenadasailingweek.com, or visit Facebook at GrenadaSailingWeek. racing off the south 2016. Antigua Sailing Week consists of five days of competitive the island. coast of Antigua plus an optional day of racing around Race on April 22nd and not part of the regatta series: the to Antigua April 23rd. the Pearns Point Round Antigua Race taking place on Dockyard. There are dailySailing Week Awards Ceremony & After Party at Nelson’s evening and the Lay Dayprizegivings after racing, the Big Party Night on the Tuesday Elite Challenge, on PigeonBeach Party the day after, featuring the Nonsuch Bay RS Point. and party schedule. the races. Visit www.sailingweek.com/v4/results/2016-entries to enter January 28th through February 2nd, 2016 through February 2nd, 2016 January 28th at www.yachtscoring.com/emenu.cfm?eID=1464. — OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 In 2009, he obtained a Green Card and travelled to New Jersey to expand his In 2009, he obtained a Green Card and travelled to New Jersey to expand his The skill set he utilized to succeed in Dominica is the same one he uses in His message to Caribbean youth: “Think outside the box. Burst through the ceiling At only seven years old, Aaron followed his older brother to an informal sailing pro- older brother to an informal years old, Aaron followed his At only seven and downs until Aaron’s mother, Allison Caton, agreed The sailing club had its up a Aaron says, “It has helped me to work as part of Of the junior sailing program youth: “Learn to sail — it is so much fun!” Aaron’s message to other Caribbean Y2A Featured Adult old W. Gerald Wyllis, 53 years Home Country: Dominica Master, Sapphire Beach Resort & Marina, Employment: Assistant Dock to swim in the sea and the Growing up in Roseau, Dominica, Gerald Wyllis learned Institute. Learning tenets In 1994, Gerald attended Jamaica’s Caribbean Maritime career. With the US economy bad, job prospects were slim and he returned to career. With the US economy bad, job prospects were slim and he returned to Dominica. Gerald continued to deliberately position himself in US waters, believing in the wide range of opportunities therein. By 2012, Gerald left Dominica and went to St. Thomas. On the Virgin Island Labor Department website (VIEWS) he noticed that Sapphire Beach & Resort Marina was looking for an assistant dockmaster. He handily secured the position, which he still holds today. Compared to the Dominica Port Authority, which is so large, his work initially felt “cramped and a little con- strained” at the 69-slip marina. But Gerald believes in taking opportunities and expanding one’s horizon, so he has focused on the positives and lives comfortably on St. Thomas. Sapphire Beach Marina: providing services. Looking forward, Gerald will keep an out for other maritime opportunities. “I will continue to progress.” As Gerald sees it, “We’re here for the purpose. In your job you should have a purpose, just as you do in life.” that you perceive limits you. Sometimes young people graduate from high school and think ‘that is it’ and don’t look beyond. Broaden your horizons.” Lifting his right hand as if cranking a wheel, he raises his eyebrows and leans forward, “Put up a periscope. Look above and beyond what you thought was initially possible.” ness and caring for others on and off the water is evident as he helps new sailors rig water is evident as he helps for others on and off the ness and caring his premises for of his father allowing boats. It is the collaboration and launch club to manage club and his mother’s willingness holding sailing sessions club storage and (LJS) steaming along. keeps L’Esterre Junior Sailing operations that of Tyrrel Bay in southwestern Carriacou. “I went withgram taking place on the beach We would ride our bikes down there,” Aaron says. my older brother on Saturdays. and With ongoing instruction from Kirsann Boatswain to become director in 2012. in its third year. Akim Clement, the club is be to carry the boats down to the sea. It also forces us to team. We need each other sail miss the ground school, we will not be allowed to on time. If we arrive late and like to me.” When asked if there was anything he’d and I do not want that to happen in sail every day.” Now seven years into participating to see change: “I wish we could tie his role volunteering to teach the new kids how to junior sailing, Aaron sees to the boats and sail them. Going forward, Aaron wants knots, learn boat parts, rig sail bigger boats. learn to build boats and to St. Thomas, USVI (junior sailing programs in river near his house. Though he did not learn to sail this aspect of youth Dominica are still limited and with TS Erika’s recent devastation Authority right after finishing development is on hold) he began working for the Port responsibilities such as tal- college. Gerald explains, “I started as Junior Clerk with Department Stores lying cargo to the transit sheds and, from there, Maintenance clearly that I wanted mari- Clerk, then Senior Clerk responsible for shipping. I saw time work on ships and around ports.” and rescue, he returned of survival aboard, such as firefighting, first aid and survival requirements to become a home. This fulfilled Dominica Air & Sea Ports Authority’s of chemical tankers, Licensed Harbor Pilot. He performed docking and undocking cargo, container and cruise ships. Moon , and a and on Moon Dance Y2A BY ELLEN EBERT BIRRELL Y2A BY Sail la Vie COMMUNITY . They earned this privilege by also enrolling in a community . They earned this privilege by also enrolling in a community , an hybrid Mom Vanille

oming together behind the scenes is never more important than when more important than behind the scenes is never oming together junior organization — like sustainable youth development organizing a stories its story. Exploring these club in existence today has sailing! Each do to think, “We can within other communities emboldens individuals

. Kidz at Sea will be featured in an October 24th, 2015 session of the Caribbean . Kidz at Sea will be featured in an October 24th, 2015 Incoming paradigm: “Junior sailing thrives in the Caribbean. We can do this.” Incoming paradigm: “Junior sailing thrives in the Caribbean. Y2A Featured Youth Aaron Malcolm, 13 years old Member: L’Esterre Junior Sailing, Carriacou, Grenada Favorite boat: Aaron Malcolm turns 14 years of age this month in Carriacou, Grenada. His father In March of this year, co-eds from three high schools comprised the St. Maarten In March of this year, co-eds from three high schools Like Antigua, St. Maarten has sailing in their school curriculum. Unique to St. Like Antigua, St. Maarten has sailing in their school In 2014, thanks to Jeff Boyd of St. Maarten Shipyard, Kidz built a new clubhouse In 2014, thanks to Jeff Boyd of St. Maarten Shipyard, In 2013, ten 16- to 19-year-olds raced aboard a Catalina 36, In 2013, ten 16- to 19-year-olds raced aboard a Catalina Originally called “The Build Your Future Project” in 2012, Kidz started out as a Your Future Project” in 2012, Kidz started out as Originally called “The Build Identifying boatbuilding as an entry path into the marine world, Garth first an entry path into the marine world, Garth first Identifying boatbuilding as Aqua Mania’s Garth Steyn had an employee who needed a captain’s license. At the had an employee who needed a captain’s license. At the Aqua Mania’s Garth Steyn

Youth2Adult – Y2A – is a series of articles celebrating sailing’s role in youth development. Youth2Adult – Y2A – is a series C owns and operates Off The Hook restaurant and lounge. His mother owns and oper- ates Isle of Reefs Tours. With Aaron’s favorite subject at school being Math, his favor- ite sailing activity racing, and his aspirations for boatbuilding and big-boat sailing, he may have entrepreneurship in his blood. Aaron is not self-absorbed though. His kind- Dance St. Maarten. Sailing Association Annual Conference at Divi Resort, Youth Sailing Team, competing on newly acquired 49-foot Youth Sailing Team, competing on newly acquired 49-foot Maarten, instead of offering standard woodshop classes, high schools are offering Maarten, instead of offering standard woodshop classes, at work building a 26-foot boatbuilding. That is where Kidz’ kids are currently hard to race in the March 2016 St. Dudley Dix . They hope to complete it in time Maarten Heineken Regatta. and added stitch-and-glue stand up paddleboard (SUP) building. and added stitch-and-glue stand up paddleboard (SUP) although the Hobie Cats, demolished the clubhouse later that same year, and launch them. Skerries and SUPs survived there is now nowhere to Beneteau 30, by NauticEd (www.nauticed. service program. By utilizing an online course provided 80 MPC students were org) for ground school in sail trim, rules of the road, etcetera, introduced to sailing that year. boats. Soon Island Water World, Budget Marine, FKG Marine Rigging and Fabrication, boats. Soon Island Water World, Budget Marine, FKG Marine Companies and Safe Cargo St. Maarten Sails & Canvas, the Harbor Group of Academy, Milton Peters Services vowed sponsorship. The Caribbean International Vocational Education signed College (MPC), St. Dominic High School and Secondary which the first boat could be on to do the building. Aqua Mania provided a shed in and companies committed to constructed. One by one, more and more individuals Fondesen (Cooperative see this worthy project succeed including Saamwerkende Rien Korteknie. Funding) and mentors Dougie Brooks, Iain Mobbs and joint venture of SMMTA and St. Maarten Sailing School to build five vessels. joint venture of SMMTA and St. Maarten Sailing and commissioned an Heineken Regatta organizers saw a promotional opportunity to decorate a sail for the new artwork competition in which the winners would go on obtained stitch-and-glue method Skerry kit boats from Chesapeake Light Craft. He Skerry kit boats from Chesapeake Light Craft. obtained stitch-and-glue method saw the cardboard box arrive that held the kit boat, they says, “When the youth first would come a water craft. After stitching and gluing, couldn’t believe that from this then putting the boats into the water and seeing them fiberglassing and painting, They’d made it themselves. float, the kids were elated!” time, there was not a certifying institution on St. Maarten. RYA certification was too institution on St. Maarten. RYA certification was time, there was not a certifying young man to where he secured the necessary expensive. Garth took the see thought: “Unlike Antigua and Anguilla, where you licensing. At this point, Garth crewing , we don’t have that in St. Maarten.” local people captaining and St. were disproportionately under-represented in Realizing that the local youth he set out to do something about that. With help from Maarten’s marine industry, (like Garth, a St. Maarten Marine Trade Association Magnis NV’s Lorraine Talmi formed the Kidz at Sea Foundation. [SMMTA] Board member), they this!” And so it goes. When Roger Bannister broke the “four-minute mile”, he shat- broke the “four-minute it goes. When Roger Bannister this!” And so “A human cannot run a mile in less than four minutes.” tered a limiting paradigm: days of Bannister’s shattering performance, individuals News traveled fast. Within also broke through. This is what we want for junior sail- scattered around the world ing in the Caribbean. OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 stood fartheroffshoretoavoidcollisionwiththese one coastalvillagetothenext.Aslightfaded,I waved pleasantlytousasweslidsilentlyalongfrom hand-built workingsailboats,dozensoffishermen terious veil.Castingandhaulingnetsfromlocally terrain plungingtothesea,shroudedinasmoky,mys- as ifthroughanancientlens,theinaccessiblerugged Close reachingahalf-mileorsooffshoreweobserved, arrived atthenorthwestcoastofHaititwilight. called Ile-à-Vache. then headeasttoourfinaldestination,asmallisland along thewesterncoastofHaititoCapDameMarie to approachtheWindwardPassage,sailsouthwest this majesticisland50milestothesouthwenowhad land. Landfallisatimeforcelebrationandgratitude. together withacommongoaltoarrivesafelyatdistant vagaries ofwindandocean—livingworking drove our50-footschooner, the helm,navigating,cooking,cleaning,mendingaswe to managethedeliverysouth—tendingsailandtaking the farhorizon.Allhandssharedindutiesrequired ing theconstantchangingshadesofwaterandskyon of lifeunderway,standingwatchdayandnight,observ- It isawelcomerewardfollowingthecontinuouscycles a momentousoccasionaboardanoceansailingvessel. tropical sea,piercingthehazyceruleansky.Landfallis steep verdantmountainsofHispaniolarisingfromthe Charlotte [email protected] www.barefootyachts With oureyesfocusedonthisnewattraction,we However, thejourneywasnotyetover.Aftersighting AT Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL chargedsouthwardwithallhandsadjustingtotherollickingmotion

Massachusetts, wesightedthe departure fromMartha’sVineyard, 2014, 13daysafteroursnowy 1000 hoursonDecember10th,

Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 Charlotte POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop , through the , throughthe Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters TO HAITI PASSAGE zone centuriespasttoaquiet,still,dreamlikeplace. from awaxingmoon.Wehadsailedintoanothertime above, withherdistantmountainousoutlinebacklit for anoccasionalfireonthebeachorinhills Haiti becameasblackthesurroundingnight,save capable butprimitive,unlitandenginelesswatercraft. A moderate easterly katabatic night wind slid down A moderateeasterlykatabaticnightwindsliddown The Voyage Begins Part One: by NatBenjamin

Right: Sunsetatsea NAT BENJAMIN NAT

IAN RIDGEWAY Haiti aboard Flora andherorphanagewhatweshouldbringto needs ofhiscommunity,theimpressiveworkSister responded quicklyandinformedusofthevarious in KaiKoq,thelittlevillagePortMorganharbor.Sam advice Isentane-mailtohisHaitianfriendSamAlteme “You mustsailtoIle-à-Vache,”heimplored.Takinghis if welikedthenorthcoastwouldlovesouth. return toHaition hardware. WhenIinformedFrankthatwantedto (at tencentsonthedollar)alargequantityofbronze connected 30yearsafterhehadsoldtoourboatyard often happensonourever-shrinkingplanet,were- I contactedtheauthor,FrankVirgintino,and,asso 2013, Inoticedthe Afro-French WestIndianculture. soulful —amagneticpulltothevisceraltextureofthis etrate thegrounditself—powerful,mysteriousand there wasamuchdeeperfeelingthatseemedtopen- the faceofabjectpovertyandlittleopportunity.But people, theirgoodnature,workethicandresolvein were struckbythekindnessandgenerosityof degree inhistoricpreservation.MyshipmatesandI colonial architectureinCapHaitienforhermaster’s Tracy documentedtheclassicandcrumblingFrench and TracyJonssonwerespendingthewinterwhile coastal townofLabadiewheremyfriendsTedOkie desire toreturn.Atthattime,wesailedthenorth by man.Forallofus,thiswasalandfalllikenoother. observing thiswonderofthenaturalworldunchanged hands walkedaboutthedeckinquietconversation, water. Withsailsstowedand anchor inthewhitesandbelow20feetofclearmoonlit the leeofapristineuninhabitedcoveandsetour our headinginonetackandby0300weroundedup backed afewpointstothenorth,allowingusmake tical milestotheeast-northeast.Thecooperativebreeze Marie andsetourcourseforIle-à-Vache,some20nau- easy sea.ShortlyaftermidnightweroundedCapDame and Cubaapleasantreachwithsheetseasedonan our waythroughtheWindwardPassagebetweenHaiti the highvolcanicslopesandacrosswater,making well as used tools and rigging for the boatbuilders. well asusedtoolsandriggingfortheboatbuilders. the fishinggeardestinedforHaitianwatermenas orphanage. Icollectedbagsofoldsailstosupplement games, artmaterialsandcashtobedeliveredthe an enthusiasticbandofdonorsbringingclothes,books, erous supplyofhooksandlinebeforelongwehad Jones enlistedthelocalfishermentocontributeagen- Benjamin MarineRailwayofourintentions.Virginia ager, AngelaPark,notifiedthefriendsofGannon& Wonder Creations.Org,andourboatyardofficeman- the databaseofhernon-profitorganization,Sense Stumbling around the internet one winter evening in Stumbling aroundtheinternetonewintereveningin Since myfirstvisittoHaitiin2011I’vehadastrong How theVoyageBegan Charlotte Charlotte Free CruisingGuidetoHaiti . My wife, Pam, reached out to . Mywife,Pam,reachedoutto , he made it very clear that , hemadeitveryclearthat Charlotte —Continued onnextpage .com finally at rest, all finally atrest,all online. online. OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 , Aurora when I was would be in good would be in Charlotte for the forthcoming five for the forthcoming , proving, once again that —Continued on next page Charlotte as first mate and chief mainte- Charlotte Charlotte Charlotte . His knowledge of the sea and the way of . His knowledge of the sea as well as on his own 48-foot , Alabama The Gannon & Benjamin boatyard is also a recruit- The Gannon & Benjamin boatyard hands when we were not aboard was a great relief to were not aboard was a hands when we He Ian’s qualifications are impressive. me and Pam. square schooner started sailing on a 108-foot and continued every year, on a fifth grade class trip the hawse hole”. At the working his way up “through of the 90-foot pilot schoo- age of 24 he became master ner good humor and gracious a ship, his musical ability, of his game. Without Ian to nature put him at the top not have made the voyage. fill this vital role, we could a casual serendipitous ing station for sailors in occasionally disap- arrangement where shipwrights at the workbench to a pear from their usual place bound. Usually, we position aboard a vessel outward of such departures. To my (the managers) are aware Zoli Clarke were both great relief, Brad Abbott and responsibilities and willing to abdicate their earthly join the jolly crew of to paraphrase one astute no one is indispensable, or, are full of indispensable psychologist, “the cemeteries in the boatyard, has people”. Brad, our recent partner survived previous excursions to the tropics aboard Charlotte and brings capable expertise in all aspects of offshore cruising. Zoli, another charter member of the G&B crew since he received his working papers at age 13, has sailed on nance coordinator for six years and he knows the boat in every detail. Both of these men are nimble sailors and know how to cook. months. Knowing that months. Knowing unbridled enthusiasm. My first requirement was to My first requirement unbridled enthusiasm. could look after find a mate who back up north. My friend Ian Ridgeway and I had been My friend Ian Ridgeway and back up north. years and this eventuality for several talking about proper order, were aligned in their now the planets committed were laid aside and Ian terrestrial bonds care of himself to the Left: Fishermen waved pleasantly to us from locally hand-built working sailboats as we slid silently along Below: We set sail on November 28th with a forecast of freshening north wind and snow flurries Serendipitous Shipmates Serendipitous on Martha’s shipmates is an easy task Selecting your Vineyard, given the vast pool of competent sailors who the vast pool of competent Vineyard, given tropical to the lure of mysterious easily succumb as the alter- their enticing possibilities islands and all our northern Man Winter, who grips native to Old with and its captive inhabitants terminal moraine was laden with awas laden with Charlotte Continued from previous page Continued from We hauled our wooden rowing tender aboard using We hauled our wooden rowing tender aboard using By late October 2014 By late October from New a December offshore passage Preparing for the fisherman and lashed it securely along the fisherman halyards and lashed it securely along the port side deck to the stanchions and deckhouse rails. Jacklines were bound taught along the deck to provide quick access for clipping in the safety harness lanyards. Lifelines at the rail, foot- ropes on the , man-overboard pole, life ring and strobe light were all tested for sea. I prepared an emergency “go” bag to include the EPIRB, first aid kit, distress flares, water bottles and some dark chocolate. The life raft was made fast to the cabin top amidships. nation of your vessel and its multitude of parts from nation of your vessel and its multitude of parts from the masthead to the bottom of her . A long “to do” list was prioritized and, with the help of my compan- ions, the work was accomplished over several weeks with only a few minor projects left for another time. Essential items for the journey included nautical charts, plotting instruments, cruising guides, nautical almanac and sight reduction tables for celestial navi- gation, sextant, courtesy flags for every country intended to visit, pelagic bird and tropical fish guides, tide books, tackle box, first aid kit, sail repair sewing and rigging bag, spare parts for the engine, water pumps and other mechanical/electrical equipment, backgammon board, dominoes, playing cards, music and don’t forget toilet paper. Diesel fuel, potable water, propane for the stove, and the provisioning of staples of food, rounded out the commissioning task. England to the lower latitudes requires careful exami- lower latitudes requires careful England to the — mostly, from America’s dumpsters, cargo liberated includingdeck in every available space, stowed below the bilge. OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 the islandsaboardtheir45-foot Gannon, andfamilymigratedto Mediterranean. Mypartner,Ross to Europeforasummerinthe Captain ScottyDiBiasosailedher only oneseasonin13yearswhen muter totheWestIndies,missing schooner The 65-footGannon&Benjamin begins tomoanintherigging. dinner andthecoldnorthwind light shrinkstodarknessbefore Vineyard Havenwhentheday- sailing vesselscastingofffrom the dayafterholidaystuffing. withstanding, wesetourETDfor Day andso,weatheroraclesnot- turkey andyamsonThanksgiving wants toleavefamilyandfriends, er forecast.Ofcoursenoone the recentmorepromisingweath- suggested “tomorrow”inlightof replied, “Whendoweleave?”I North AtlanticinDecember.He pay togothrashaboutinthe unknown periodoftimewithno leave hisjobandfamilyforan than specificallyaskinghimto thought, andmuchlessalarming join us—asimplerequest,I Thanksgiving toseeifhewould Malcolm Boydthedaybefore us. Icalledonmyoldfriend ber atthe11thhourtoeaseburdenforrestof dictions foster,Idecidedtotakeonanothercrewmem- southerly gales,andthepsychologicaleffectthosepre- cession offrontalsystemsproducingunpleasant advise ustopostponeourdepartureowingasuc- — used tocalla“pleasantgale”fromthenorthwest,or wind andsnowflurriesbuildingtowhattheoldtimers on November28thwithaforecastoffresheningnorth allows ustocarryonwithimpunity. appears andthemercifullyshortmemoryofsailor for theduration.Eventually,stormends,sun right placetokeepyourvesselandshipmatessecure elemental presentrealityknowingthatyouareinyour of theunravelingsituationbutratherdealwith a goodidea.Butthereisnotimetodwellontheregrets will convinceyouthatthisoceanvoyagingbusinessis manence ofallthings—nothing,absolutelynothing eastern philosophicalatmosphere—asintheimper- jammed intothecracksbeginstotakeonanesoteric basket ofboardsscrewedtoframeswithcottonstring bronze fittings,stainlesssteelwireriggingandthe last mealandsuddenlyallthoseindestructiblecast tub whiletheleerailbeckonsforcontentsofyour precious varnishedcockleshelllikeacorkinwash- into mountainsandtossyour begins tohowl,theseasbuild do this? there apatternhere?Whydowe from theirpreviousescapade.Is Carpet south intheirclassicyacht, Lee Taylorcontinuetocruise Destiny aboard theimpeccableketch have completedtworoundtrips 2013-14. RickandChrissyHaslet

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia There isahistoryofmigratory As theCommanders’weatherservicecontinuedto With thosecheerfulthoughtsforgotten,wesetsail Underway atLast Rest assured,whenthewind Continued frompreviouspage , aftersufficientrecovery Eleda andToddBassett Juno forthewinterof isaveritablecom- Magic

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Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope Johnson Hardware Ltd. with forcesbeyondmeasure.Awatchfuleyeondeck relentless demandsoftheseaassheworksvessel tation totroubleandallshipmatesmustbealertthe “constant vigilance”.Toletdownyourguardisaninvi- at theendofeachwatch.Themariner’smantrais and theship’spositionwereenteredintologbook bilge condition,enginehours,batteryvoltage,sailsset speed, windforce/direction,barometricpressure, clock. Acarefulrecordofcompassheading,average with twomenondeckforthree-hourshiftsaroundthe rhythm ofourwateryworld.Ihadsetawatchsystem our winterwooliesandsetinnerclockstothe welcome ofwarmairandafavorablecurrent.Weshed as theGulfStreamgreeteduswithleapingdolphins,a . Thatborderlessriveroftropicalwaterknown , ,forestaysail,jibandfisherman ond daythewindmoderatedandallsailwasset— Thanksgiving digestivecycles.Bytheendofsec- hands adjustingtotherollickingmotionandpost- south southeast. our courseforBermuda,650nauticalmilestothe with afairtidepasttheGayHeadlightwhereweset bor andflyingalongathullspeedupVineyardSound Charlotte’s forestaysail providedplentyofcanvastodrive well abaftthebeam.Thereefedmainsail,foresailand sunny dayas The firstbittercoldnightgavewaytoablustery FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE 58,000-pounddisplacementoutofthehar- Charlotte Fax:(758)4520311 charged southwardwithall Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners e-mail:[email protected] nature andmoreactivitiesfilledourhours.Wetook chant shipatnight. sky cankeepyouclearofawaterspoutbydayormer- tells youit’stoolate.Keenobservationoftheseaand ing sailbeforethedreadedsoundofshreddingcloth and aloftwilldetectanunfairlead,fouledlineorchaf- onward toIle-à-Vache. ravenous bodies. bling andsqueakingonthegalleystovetonourishfive duce andrarelywassomethingdelectablenotbub- were wellprovisionedwithlocallygrownVineyardpro- accomplished seacookswithwelcomeregularity.We achievements weredeliveredbyourcollectionof you. Fromthegalleyastreamofgastronomical blank orthebatteriesdie,sextantwillneverfail may bemoreaccurate,butwhenthescreengoes that hasguidedmeacrosstheoceanfor45years.GPS sun, moonandstarsightswithmytrustyoldsextant in asmoky,mysteriousveil rugged terrainplungingtothesea,shrouded as ifthroughanancientlensHaiti’sinaccessible Close reachingahalf-mileorsooffshore,weobserved By thethirddayatseaourroutinewassecond Next month,PartTwo:ABermudamomentand Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 of FortNapoleon Below: OnTerre-de-Haut,kidscanexplorethemoats,,andechoinghalls for families Above: Guadeloupe’sLesSaintesarchipelagomakesawonderfuldestination an islandoffisland.Although therearenomajorsights,wejust general cavortinginthesand. While itisabittooroughforswimming, it’sperfectforsandcastle-buildingand exposed). OurfavoritewasGrandAnse, the longsandystriponwindwardside. Haut, you’llhaveyourpickofseveralgorgeous beaches(someprotected,othersmore kids canexploremoats,cannons,andthe echoinghallsoftheinterior.OnTerre-de- atop bothcrestsofthemainbay,including colonial-eraFortNapoleonwherethe wonderful placeforlongwalks,baguette orcroissantinhand.Historicfortsstand in; thensleepydogsdroprightbackinto theirnapsinthemiddleofstreet.It’sa ity”. Onthemainisland,Terre-de-Haut,thingsonlypickupwhenferrycomes ago wouldbeit.LyingtenmilessouthofGuadeloupe,theseislandsdefine“tranquil- your owntothelist! venience, auniquepointofinterest,ortheoverallfeelplace. from thesheernaturalbeautyoflocation.Inothercases,itwasthankstocon- The primarycriterionwassimplyhowmemorableaplacewas.Sometimes,thatcame friendly spotsintheEasternCaribbeantojustafew.Howdidwejudgeourtopten? the waydownchainofLesserAntilles,thenallbackup. by NadineSlavinski If Terre-de-Hautisquiet,itslittlesister, Terre-de-Bas,ispositivelybucolic,being If therewereonlyonespotwecouldvisitinalltheCaribbean,thislittlearchipel- Les Saintes,Guadeloupe We hopeyouenjoythesespotsasmuchwedidandaresoonabletoaddtenof Recently, weputourheadstogethertowhittledownalonglistofgreat,family- So manyislands,solittletime!Ourfamilywasluckytobeableisland-hopall ers hadonlocalpopulations. neatly intodiscussionsontheimpactthat Columbusandsubsequentcolonialpow- roots anywhereintheEasternCaribbean, it’safascinatingplace.Atripheresegues tory oftheKalinago.Asonelastmajor survivingcommunitieswithindigenous sonal guidetoshowyouaroundarecreated villageandexplaintheculturehis- wild sideoftheislandduringcolonialtimes. Yourfamilywillhaveyourownper- of indigenousCaribswhomixedwithescaped slavesandfoundsafehavenonthis one ofthetophighlightsourCaribbean cruise.There,youwillmeetdescendants Kalinago BaranaAutê,aculturalcenter on thewindwardsideofisland,remains while (andrelativelyinexpensiveifsharedbetweenseveralcrews).Ourvisit to adventure thatwillfascinateyoungandold. fashioned outofleaves.Treesandvinesoverhangtheriver,soit’sasmall, safe job explainingvariousplantstothechildrenanddelightingthemwithlittlebirds he but thisisagoodwayofsupportingthelocaleconomy.Ourguidedidwonderful local guidewithahand-rowedboat.Weusuallyprefertotakeexcursionsonourown Bay, thefirststopisoftenaboattourupIndianRiver.You’rerequiredtotake a Eastern Caribbean.ForcruisingfamiliesanchoredincommodiousPrinceRupert filmed. reef totinyPetitTabac,wherethecastawayscenein“PiratesofCaribbean”was anchorage. Forabiggeradventure,wehiredlocalfishermantotakeusbeyondthe high, too.Theycanbespottedfeedingintheshallowsorswimmingthroughout of thereefandlookoutintoanendlessoceanview.Chancesseeingseaturtlesare feeling ofbeinganchoredontheedgeworld,sinceyoucananchorinlee a RobinsonCrusoefeel.Evenwithdozensofboatsanchoredthere,you’llhavethe islands areprotectednationalparkterritory,there’snodevelopment,givingtheplace their modestheightsforavieworplayingonthesmallstripsofsand.Because for kids.Thereareseveralsmallislandstoexplore,whetherthatmeansclimbing of iceforhim,forevercementingourlovethisplace. son fellandscrapedhisknee,awomanpromptlycameoutofherhousewithbag an hourcountsastraffic,andweenjoyedlongexploratorywalks.Whenouryoung (though weneverfoundthemtobeanuisance),butinTerre-de-Bas,threevehicles Over onTerre-de-Haut,you’llhearthemosquito-likenoiseofmopedsregularly loved thefriendly,laid-backvibeofplaceandfeltwarmlygreetedbyislanders. A guidedexcursionalongDominica’sIndianRiverwillfascinateyoungandold Other attractionsrequirearentalcarorvananddriver,butareextremelyworth- Dominica isanature-lover’sparadise:oneofthegreenest,wildestislandsin Dominica The TobagoCaysareamustonanycruiser’sitineraryandanaquaticwonderland Tobago Cays,St.Vincent&theGrenadines —Continued onnextpage OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 —Continued on page 46 Editor’s note: Parts of Dominica suffered severe flooding from Hurricane Erika inEditor’s note: Parts of Dominica suffered severe flooding Continued from previous page Continued from Grenada Prickly Bay is one of those sheltered anchorages that boats come to visit for a week Shirley Heights, Antigua cruise was the Sunday One of the most memorable evenings of our Caribbean [ Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines vibe of this island that Ah, Bequia. There’s just something about the laid-back Elsewhere on Dominica, you can hike to waterfalls, search for the colorful Sisserou waterfalls, search for the colorful Dominica, you can hike to Elsewhere on and end up spending a season. There’s easy shore access to a small marina (with lots of space to anchor in the bay), a Budget Marine for spare parts, and grassy areas where kids can unwind. When you’re ready for a day out, rent a car or hire a van to visit the island’s top sights: the working cocoa plantation on historic Belmont Estate, the scenic yet sobering point at Carib’s Leap near Sauteurs at the northern tip of the island, and Grand Etang National Park, where even young children can manage the trail to Seven Sisters Falls. and “old” alike enjoyed the music, great food, and views, not to mention the atmo- spheric surroundings in an 18th-century fort. Throw in sunset over the Caribbean and you know why so many sailors (and landlubbers) rate the event so highly. The anchorage below in English Harbour gets cramped at peak times, but gives you a prime base for hiking to the Heights as well as exploring historic Nelson’s Dockyard. If you’re based in Jolly Harbour, consider renting a car and combining a day of errands with an evening of fun. Antigua’s Shirley Heights Sunday barbecues can tie in perfectly with a visit here: historic Nelson’s Dockyard at English Harbour. barbecue at Shirley Heights. Our children were so fascinated by the steel drum band barbecue at Shirley Heights. Our children were so fascinated moves all their own. Young that they ended up dancing the night away with creative makes every sailor smile. For sailing families, the draws are many, starting with a makes every sailor smile. For sailing families, the draws kids, plus a convenient huge, safe harbor where you’re likely to find other sailing Bay will give the kids a fit- main town. A walk to Princess Margaret Beach or Lower in the Caribbean. Once ness challenge on the way to some of the nicest beaches and spend a happy after- there, you can stake out your own spot among the palms point of interest on Bequia is noon doing as much — or as little — as you like. One hatchling sea turtles up close the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary, where you can observe and learn about conservation efforts. overlook the poverty on this island, but just as striking is the natural beauty of the overlook the poverty on this island, but just as striking people. island as well as the pride and resourcefulness of its be running normally again.] August, but by the time you read this, most things should Above: A visit to the Kalinago Cultural Center on windward Dominica is a highlight Above: A visit to the Kalinago Cultural Center on windward of any Caribbean cruise parrot that graces the national flag, and swim in jungle pools. It’s impossible to swim in jungle pools. It’s the national flag, and parrot that graces — SEPTEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26

AVALON TRAVEL Chagres, theZapatillaCays,EscudodeVeraguasandmore. journey aboardour53-footCrosstrimaran, issues.html March andApril2015issuesof The restisamystery. have beencarvedinSpain,arrivedonashipandwassomehowwashedashorehere. worship there.ManystoriessurroundtheBlackChriststatue’sarrival.Itissaidto last 22milesfromSabanitas,andmanycrawlthemileonhandskneesto told thatsomepeoplewalkthe53milesfromPanamaCity,thousandsmore were intriguedbythestatueofBlackChristinIglesiaSanFelipe.We Heritage Site,andtheCustomsHousethatoncehousedloadsofpiratetreasure.We to provision.Weexploredthetouristsitessuchasfort,whichisaUNESCOWorld friends totakeaconvenientandcheaplocalbusPortobelloseethesights lift, butunfortunately,ourboatistoowide.Whilethere,wewereinvitedbycruiser on thecliffoverlookingentranceto river. began usingthefortashisbaseofoperations. In1680theSpanishbuiltanewfort in 1670thatleftitruins.Afterhisinvasion ofPanamaCitythefollowingyear,he from 1587to1599.TheEnglishCaptain HenryMorganorderedanattackonthefort to itsfleet,SpainbuiltthefortatRio Chagresentrance.Itwasusedasabattery around 1560.ToprotecttheLasCruces Trail, usedtotransportNewWorldtreasure tually leadstotheoldUSmilitarybaseof FortSherman. toured FortSanLorenzoandhikedthepaved roadthroughtherainforestthateven- headed fortherainforest-linedRioChagres.Wedroppedhookandimmediately a greatlunchatCaptainJack’sHostelandRestaurant. Above: PurePanama—aperfectlypristinehorseshoebeach Panama’s Caribbeancoast Top: Onaneasttowestpassage,UltrasailedfromElPorvenirBocasalong San BlastoBocasdel Toro: Jungle Rivers,BigSharks… We stoppedatIslaLintontovisitPanamarinaandcheckthespecsontheirtravel Isla LintonandPortobello After ourdeparturefromElPorvenirinPanama’smagicalSanBlasIslands( Brief history:Piratesinsearchoftreasure beganattackingthecoastofPanama After stoppingforonenightinShelterBayMarinaColonandfuelingup,we Rio Chagres Before wehoppedbackonthereturnbus,stoppedinforsomecoldbeersand Canoe ThroughtheMud and HaulingaDugout ), weslowlycruisedtowardstheBocasdelToroarchipelago.Along by BillandJoAnneHarris Compass atwww.caribbeancompass.com/back- Ultra , westoppedatIslaLinton,Rio —Continued onnextpage see OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 . Armed (wooden dugout S/V Vagabundo cayuco —Continued on next page ” and nodded his YES! Mhm, mhm, mhm Continued from previous page Continued from Escudo de Veraguas This anchorage can be extremely uncomfortable, so it is important to watch the We decided to explore the mangroves further up the bay. The children were fin- We headed ashore to explore. It had been raining tons once again, so it was very Tobobe-Pueblo Nuevo arrived at the anchorage. We were immediately approached by the locals as we Laguna de Bluefield of “hashing” in Grenada. Hiking through villages here reminded us of our days After we were all safely in the dinks, Kevin explained that he had seen a HUGE bull After we were all safely in the dinks, Kevin explained that Another day, Kevin asked us to join him to hunt for lobster in the mouth of the us to join him to hunt for lobster in the mouth of the Another day, Kevin asked We spent several days anchored here, beachcombing the river banks, being enter- the river banks, days anchored here, beachcombing We spent several A typical village grocery store along the way weather and seas so you can plan accordingly. After countless hours with extremely stormy weather, choppy seas, and a three-knot current (all were on the nose, and at one point we were doing less than one knot with the sails up and engine running), compounded with a broken autopilot, we dropped the hook and set the anchor alarm. ished with school for the day and were paddling their canoe home. We offered a tow and selected a boat that had three children in it. They were grateful not to have to paddle home and we took them all the way to their dock — an extremely long way through the mangroves. Upon our arrival, the other children in their family greeted us — a total of 13 siblings. They walked us up to their home where their family lives together along with the grandparents, a cat and a dog, too. We had a great conversa- tion with them and gave the children candy, pencils and balloons. They proceeded to make gifts for us out of the brown fiber from the palm trees. They were adorable hats! It was a rewarding experience to visit with this family. muddy. As we made our way through the village, we came upon a pasture and way off in the distance we saw a family dragging a brand new canoe) from the forest. We immediately climbed under the barbed wire fence and through the muddy cow pasture. As we approached, we could see there were four women and two men doing the job. We offered to assist them. They were grateful, and the women sat down in the field. We proceeded to help tow this extremely heavy canoe through the pasture, sinking to our knees and almost losing our strappy river sandals with every step in mud that seemed more like quicksand. Sweating, laughing and pulling uphill and then across a long straightaway with all of our might, we finally made it to the barbed wire fence. Under the fence with the cayuco, and then it was a downhill slide to the water. The children thoughtfully asked for our shoes, took them down to the water, washed them and returned them spotless. Unfortunately, we did not get the opportunity to capture the cayuco hauling on film, since we were covered in mud from head to toe. However, the memories will live on in our heads. They were eager to meet us and told us that they had not seen a cruising boat in They were eager to meet us and told us that they had three months. The Mayor asked for six US dollars per boat to anchor in the harbor and explained that the money would go to the school. There was so much mud everywhere and we were slipping and sliding in the rain all There was so much mud everywhere and we were slipping hike to the tremendous over the place — so fun! The highlight was a spectacular justice. waterfalls. This is a must see, and photos do not do it shark up close and personal. He had surprised it in the murky water and part of the shark up close and personal. He had surprised it in the shared this story later with shark’s body and the tail had grazed his shoulder. We a HUGE bull shark has been friends who are familiar with the river, and they said guarding the mouth of the river for years! river. We are always up for a challenge. However, this one would be a big one. Owing river. We are always up for a challenge. However, this was less than one foot! to the torrential rains for the past few weeks, the visibility seen in forever. Kevin had This seemed to be the first sunny day this place had before us. We threw the arrived at the hunting site in his dink about 15 minutes was in the water first with her dinghy anchor, put on our snorkel gear and JoAnne Bill was loading his spear- Hawaiian sling. While she was swimming towards Kevin, Kevin began swimming gun and just a few minutes from jumping in. Suddenly, since his eyes were as big towards us at sonic speed. JoAnne asked if he was okay, walking on water! She as dinner plates. He could not speak, and was practically asked, “Is it a shark?” and he said, “ a nurse shark, and we were While diving with Kevin previously, we had seen many WAS A BAD SHARK! JoAnne not spooked by them, so we knew this was serious. IT Bill had just jumped in and immediately did a 180 and rapidly swam towards Bill. IN THE BOAT!” He could not she repeated at least 20 times a barrage of “GET BACK to catch five feet of air as he hear her, so she screamed “SHARK!” Bill appeared flipped into the dinghy, and JoAnne followed suit! with lots of bug spray, machetes, flashlights, GPS, VHF radio, water, Leatherman GPS, VHF radio, water, spray, machetes, flashlights, with lots of bug dinghy, which We rode with Kevin in his bars, we ventured out. tools and granola side creek off ofwe had chosen to explore a be an excellent idea, since turned out to the much lighter than ours. While traveling up through the river and his dinghy is and“Jungle Cruise”, we began encountering gigantic logs rainforest on our very own the river. We pressed on, wedged ourselves againstcountless tree limbs that blocked up we could grasp, and pulled the dink and outboard the branches or whatever else all the while taking care not to ever fall in! Along the way,and over the massive logs — and spotted a variety of spectacular birds.we saw and heard howler monkeys tained by enormous groups of howler monkeys foraging in the treetops, swimming foraging in the treetops, groups of howler monkeys tained by enormous and doing lots pieces of sea glass or china, shoreline hunting for old along the shallow the Smithsonian for the entrance to adventures included searching of hiking. River through the We tried an alternative route but we never found it. Institution tower, sailor, Kevin of cruiser friend and single forest with a fellow — OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 charts. Fairtides! the tidefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill 0 1751 1658 20 1607 19 1516 18 1427 17 1340 16 1254 15 1210 14 1127 13 1045 12 1002 0920 11 0836 10 0750 9 0703 8 0613 7 0521 6 0427 5 0331 4 0235 3 2 1 DATE TIME October 2015 MERIDIAN PASSAGE OCTOBER &NOVEMBER2015 OF THEMOON 0 1051 1008 0925 10 0843 9 0800 8 0717 7 0633 6 0546 5 0456 4 0404 3 2 1 0309 November 2015 0212 31 0114 30 0016 29 0000(fullmoon) 28 2319 27 2222 26 2127 25 2032 24 1938 23 1845 22 21 0 0326 0244 30 0149 29 0052 28 0000(fullmoon) 27 2353 26 2305 25 2158 24 2103 23 2009 22 1917 21 1825 20 1743 19 1640 18 1548 17 1455 16 1404 15 1313 14 1224 13 1137 12 11 — later becameapermanentsettlement. from nearbycoastaltownsmovedin.Itwasusedfirstforthefishermen’sbasebut island remainedlargelyunpopulated,butsincethattime,fishermenandfamilies people arecollectivelythelargestindigenouspopulationinPanama.Until1995 on thebeach. laid downquiteabit,butstill“timingwaseverything”tosurfinandlandthedinghy went righttosleep.Thenextmorningweawokeabrightsunnyday.seashad and somefreshseafoodpreparedtoperfection. latter caythereareseveralbar/restaurantswhereyoucangrabacoldBalboabeer are providedbythethousandsofbrittlestarsandspongesthatcoverreef.At a.k.a. CrawlCay,areexcellentsitestoanchorandenjoytherainbowofcolorsthat wooden walkwaysrunningthroughtheisland.Thislocation,alongwithCoralCay lect parkfeestoprotecttheabundanceofnaturalbeauty.Therearealsoraised Park, completewithparkrangerswhohaveanofficeonZapatillaTwoandtheycol- that surroundthem.TheyarepartofPanama’sBastimentosIslandNationalMarine nut palmsthatswayintheseabreeze,stunningbeachesandbrilliantcoralreefs 2014 issueof deep muddyriver.Notetoself:Nothingoveranklenexttime! to reverseandheadback!Theonlyissuewaspassingonceagainthroughthewaist- down thefarbeachatrocketspeedandsplashintosea.Wedecidedthatsecond swim aroundit.Justamomentlater,wesawanenormoussaltwatercrocodilerun with abeachontheothersideofit.Wewouldeitherhavetoclimboverbluffor that wasrunningoutfromtherainforesttosea.Fartheralong,wecameabluff made ourwayupthebeach,wewererequiredtowadewaistdeepinafreshwaterriver JoAnne doingthesplitsoverthem,therewasstillatleastafootoneachside.Aswe search ofseabeans,wecameuponseveralnests.Theyweresowide,thatevenwith be makingtheirnestsandlayinghundredsofeggs.Aswewalkedthebeachin Master licensesandsailaboardtheirtrimaran, the SanBlasformoreadventures,andthenseewherewindwilltakeusnext! a lifetime.AfterourexplorationoftheBocasdelToroarchipelago,wewillreturnto explore themultitudeofexperiencesithastooffer.Wehavemademanymemories plenty ofrainfalltofillyourtanks,eveninthedryseason. pelago averages136inchesannually.Theupsideforacruiseristhatthere After all,thisistherainforestanditrainsbucketloads.TheBocasdelToroarchi- There isahugeneedforschoolsuppliesalllevels. English tothestudentsandassistteachersinanywaypossiblewhilewe’rehere. around theworldtoridewaves. famous inthesurfingcommunityforoutstandingsurfandproscomefrom ous Pygmysloths,akaleidoscopeofbirdsandmonkeysallkinds.Bocasisalso scuba divingandthoroughlyenjoyedtheflorafauna:thisishomeofnumer- thrilling BatCaveonBastimentos,hadanoutstandingziplineexperience,went However, wecouldn’tresisttakingtimetoexplorethenearbyislands.Wevisited and Marina.ItisanexcellentlocationtocheckitemsofftheBoatProjectToDoList. visit jandbyachtultraadventure.blogspot.com. cruising articlesandsharingtheirexperiences.Tofollowsailingadventures and othersmallerdenominationcoins. US$1. AlthoughUScurrencyisaccepted everywhere,theyalsouseaBalboacoin US$105 ImmigrationFee. amendment toagovernmentrulingthat chargedonlycruisersanexorbitant Yacht ClubandMarinaforspendinghis ownhard-earnedmoneytowritean like togiveasincerethankyouCourtney Parks,oneoftheownersBocas Fee, VesselInspectionHealthMinistry Fee,andTransportationFee.Wewould heard ofothervesselsbeingchargedaFumigation Fee,AgricultureQuarantine Yala Congreso,plusUS$20perpersonaboard, andaUS$5formfee.Wehavealso months (180daysfromthedatestampwasissued). air, yourone-yearstampisvoidandyouwillreceiveagoodforonlysix the oneyear(365daysfromdatestampwasissued),uponyourreturnby the datepermitwasissued) the mostexpensivecountrywehaveevercheckedourvesselinto. This pristineislandistraditionallythebirthplaceofNgöbe–Buglépeople.These It wasextremelybouncy,evenforourmultihull,butweweresoexhausted, At IslaColon,BocasdelToro,weslid Bocas Town,IslaColon The ZapatillaCays,NumberOneandTwo,aredensewithdazzlingcoco- Zapatilla CaysandCrawlCay [ We tookatouroftheisland,whereitwasseasonforgiganticseaturtlesto JoAnne andBillHarrisarefromClearLake,Texasbothhold100-tonUSCG We aresincerelydelightedthatwehavehadtheopportunitytovisitPanamaand A tip:Whenschedulingavisittothisareaoftheworld,youmustprepareyourself. We havealsovisitedseveralindigenousschoolsandplantovolunteerteach Continued frompreviouspage For anotherlookatEscudodeVeraguas,bycruiserAttilaBerry,seetheDecember Panama conductsbusinesswithUSdollars: onePanamanianBalboaequals We checkedinattheSanBlasIslandsandwepaidafeeofUS$20toKuna Possible AdditionalFees US$105 perpassport.Note:Ifyouarrivebyboat,thenflyoutofPanamawithin Immigration Fees Up to10metres=US$90;OverUS$180foroneyear(365daysfrom Cruising PermitVesselFees At thetimeofthispublication: We haveenjoyedourtimeinPanama,butwemustsharewithyouthatthisis PANAMA CRUISINGANDIMMIGRATIONFEES Compass at www.caribbeancompass.com/backissues.html. Ultra intothewonderfulBocasYachtClub S/V Ultra . Theyenjoywriting a tamehowlermonkey JoAnne getstoknow ] OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 Suzuki Selective Suzuki Selective

magazine magazine Boating Industry The Suzuki Precision Control is a technologically advanced computer-based advanced computer-based Control is a technologically The Suzuki Precision a special Rotation, which incorporates also has the Suzuki Selective The outboard This engine introduces the Suzuki showcased The DF200AP outboard also Annually, For more information about these products, workshops, and services, visit www. For more information about these products, workshops, 5. For more information on Suzuki del Caribe see ad on page Just Add Foiling it into a foiling sailboat. The new Glide Free Foiling kit fits any Laser dinghy, turning Visit www.glidefree.com.au for more information. among its competitors were the Suzuki Precision Control, the were the Suzuki Precision among its competitors the Keyless Start System Suzuki. Rotation, and conventional control cables found in that replaces the mechanical control system eliminates the source of friction with electronic wiring that control systems and resistance. the outboard in the lower unit that allows of gears, shaft and bearings unified design when direction, standard or counter, and efficiently in either to operate reliably requires an rotation operation only installations. Counter used on multi-outboard connects to a circuit inside the engine compartment optional activation switch that rotation propeller, eliminating the need to purchase plus the installation of a counter unit. a dedicated counter-rotation This Keyless Start System to the industry. at the allows the user to start the engine need of a touch of a button without the System is not key. The Suzuki Keyless Start in yet available in engines distributed the Caribbean. by mayor improvements in its structure other mod- being 12 percent lighter than improv- els in higher categories, thereby percent by ing fuel efficiency up to 33 Burn incorporating the Suzuki Lean 4 out- Control Technology. This inline to the V6 board has similar performance any type of model, making it perfect for boat in this power range. publishes a list of the best products, publishes a list of the best products, accessories, engines and applications for the boating industry. The winners were chosen based on factors such as their impact on the industry, innovation and how they have advanced in their category. Facebook/ suzukipr.com, or call (787) 622-0600. You can also visit SuzukiCaribbeanMarine and click the “like” button. No other fixings are A simple toggle pin holds the centercase insert in place. or attachments. The boat required. You can retrofit Glide Free Foils with no screws the foils. All foils can be remains Laser Class legal for racing as soon as you remove easily flat packed in their carry bag ready to travel. The workbook revi- …Business Briefs …Business a Must-Read for Adventurous Sailors a Must-Read for Adventurous

magazine recently honored the Suzuki DF200AP outboard with magazine recently honored the Suzuki DF200AP outboard Safety for Cruising Couples – Including “Suddenly Alone”. Safety for Cruising Couples Continued from page 9 Continued from “This new accolade now gives the Suzuki Marine nine distinctions,” said Erving “This new accolade now gives the Suzuki Marine nine Suzuki Outboard Receives ‘Top Product 2015’ Recognition Boating Industry The workbook is a handy reminder to both experienced and less-experienced The workbook is a handy reminder to both experienced on how to present a To purchase a copy of the workbook or receive information Puerto Velero is just a daylight sail from Santa Marta and from Cartagena, making sail from Santa Marta and from Cartagena, making Puerto Velero is just a daylight for more information. Visit www.marinapuertovelero.co Safety for Cruising Couples The Safety at Sea Committee of the Cruising Club of America has recently pub- The Safety at Sea Committee Rosario, sales and marketing manager for Suzuki del Caribe. “All of the honors Rosario, sales and marketing manager for Suzuki del Caribe. outboard manufacturer received have positioned Suzuki as the most award-winning outboard stand out globally,” he added. Among the features that made the the Top Product 2015 recognition for innovation, value and improvements to the the Top Product 2015 recognition for innovation, value new standard in the industry user experience. With this new outboard, Suzuki sets a marine engines. by offering the latest in groundbreaking technology in sions incorporate the broad experience of CCA members as well as the technology sions incorporate the broad experience of CCA members evolved since the and techniques of safety and safety equipment that have 15 years ago. “Suddenly Alone” workbook was first published about every year. The art cruising partners of safety procedures that should be practiced in knowing what to do of safety is increased when both individuals are confident when the unexpected happens. Seminar at your yacht club, Safety for Cruising Couples - including “Suddenly Alone” contact Ron Trossbach at [email protected]. it a convenient stop on the Colombian coast. it a convenient stop on the lished an updated version of its highly regarded “Suddenly Alone” workbook, now its highly regarded “Suddenly Alone” workbook, now lished an updated version of titled — OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 rowboat (twice,onceineachdirection).He iscurrentlyteachingchildrentokayak. the cookingonLeveraBeach;thereforewe hadadeliciousmealafterwhicheveryoneleftforhomeinhappymood. tastes likepeanuts. eter withthinskinandsoftwhiteflesh.The seedisabouthalfaninchindiameterandthekernelinside,whichalsoedibl a footballonhisheadforlongperiods),and oneyounglady,Onika,fromSt.VincentbutresidinginGrenada. “Davo” Otway,Selwyn“Bassman”Maxwell,ourphotographerSimonGreen,Douglas “Barboy”Hood(themanwhocouldbalance back tothebeach.HeremostofusweretransportedLeveraBeachwhilefive membersofthegroupswamtoshore:David of theisland. motor fishingboatcaptainedbythecaretaker 9:00 Grenada andassembledonLeveraBeachat the group,whocamefromdifferentareasof Monday May25th.Therewere23personsin of thesouthernhillandbacktobeach. eastern sideandsouthwardsaroundthebase beach atrailgoesuptheridge,downto ridge isatinybaywithhouse.Fromthe about 100feethigh.Atthewesternsideofthis and isconnectedtothenorthernhillbyaridge cone. Thesouthernhillisabout150feethigh to about350feetabovesealevellikeaperfect occupies abouttwothirdsoftheareaandrises shape andhastwohills.Thenorthernhill yards wide,easttowest.Itisroughlyovalin 400 yardslong,northtosouth,andabout300 Beach inthenortheasterncornerofGrenada. about aquarterofmilenortheastLevera Telfor Bedeau is a hiking guide. As well as covering the island on foot he has circumnavigated Grenada by windsurfer and by Telfor Bedeauisahikingguide.Aswellas coveringtheislandonfoothehascircumnavigatedGrenadabywindsurferand by Michael Edwards,oneofthehikers,had organizedapotofGrenada’snationaldish,OilDown,andonehisfriends did It wascloudywithalightdrizzlewhenwe gotbacktoLevera.HereIhuntedfor“fatpork”,afruitaboutoneinchindiam- We descendedandatthecolbetweentwopeakswetooktrailtoeast walkedaroundthebaseofsouthpeak Our hiketoSugarLoaftookplaceonWhit The islandismadeupofonehugerockabout Sugar LoaforLeveraIslandisasmallisland AM . Weweretransportedtotheislandona

ALL PHOTOS: SIMON GREEN byTelforBedeau

THE HIKETOSUGARLOAF SAILORS GUIDE TO THE WINDWARD ISLANDS WINDWARD THE TO GUIDE SAILORS Bridge, IsledeCaille,Ronde,DiamondIsland,theTwoSisters,LesTantesandCarriacou Beach withLeveraLakeembeddedinahugeareaofmangroveforest;lookingnorthwardswecouldseeLondon Grenada’s foremosthikingguides;wespentabouthalfanhourviewingthescenery;tosouthwasLevera Clockwise fromtop:Westartedclimbingalongthetrailtoridge;septuagenarianTelforBedeauisoneof ed byasquadronofseagullsthatkeptscreamingallthetime. ern pointofGrenada beyond risingverticallytoover800feet. all thewaytoTelescopePointneartownofGrenvilleoneastcoastGrenada. when theFrenchandBritishwerefightingforpossessionofGrenada.BeyondthatwecouldseeBathwayBeach southeast ofitandBirdIslandorMooshayCawayfarbeyond,lookinglikeagiantwhale. Carriacou andPetiteMartiniquebarelyvisiblethroughthehaze. Ronde werethetwosmallislandscalledLesTantesandbeyondthem Sisters withtheunderwatervolcano“Kick’emJenny”nearby.EastofIslede Diamond Islandstickingoutbeyondthem.WestofthisgroupweretheTwo miles away.BeyonditwereIsledeCailleandRondewiththetopof objects tobelessdistinct. only problemwasthehazeowingtoSaharadust,whichcauseddistant were veryroughbuteasytoclimbbecauseofthenon-skidsurface. area ofbarelandthatwasbrokenupintohundredssmallboulders not ruggedatfirstbutafterashortdistanceitgotsteeperandenteredan in thedryseason.Thegroundwasalsocoveredwithgrass.trail the toplednorthwardsbetweenstuntedcedartreesthathadlosttheirleaves We spentabouthalfanhourviewingthescenerywhileahugefrigatebirdpatrolledskyoverheadattend- To ourwestthenorthcoastofGrenadastretchedallwaytoTangaLanguaPoint,whichisnorthwest- To thesouthwasLeveraBeachwithLakeembeddedinahugeareaofmangroveforestandHill To oursouthwasBedfordPointaquarterofmileawaywiththeruinsfortthatbuiltduringcolonialdays To oureastwasGreenIslandaquarterofmileawaywithSandy Looking northwardswecouldseetherockcalledLondonBridgeabouttwo We reachedthetopinabout20minutesandviewwasfantastic.The We startedclimbingat9:30 ALL ASHORE…

To arrangeahikewithhimcall(473)442-6200. AM along the trail to the ridge. Here the trail to alongthetrailtoridge.Here e, OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 was the only Fata Morgana was an inspiration and a dream and the roasted shrimp, as big mariscos S/V Fata Morgana

Fata Morgana A few days of dreams-come-true followed. Our friends learned some basic things A few days of dreams-come-true followed. Our friends a small fishermen’s vil- The last day we decided to sail to the next little bay where greeted by a row of a fewAt the foot of the burnt hills, on the edge of the bay we were and, like fathers extremely In the late afternoon, fishermen emerge from the sea under trees and roofs was It was burning hot in Taganga. All good thick shade Around three o’clock I awoke with a start. I heard voices. Intruders had boarded The next day we returned to the anchorage in Santa Marta with new skills and Mira Nencheva, her hus- At night Taganga transforms. We were warned not to roam the streets after sunset At night Taganga transforms. We were warned not to roam scorched spiky trees — lifeless, sun-eaten victims of the constant hot dry winds. The scorched spiky trees — lifeless, sun-eaten victims of the of years, Cata told us, when hills wake up from their coma only once every couple drunk on green juices, the the rain approaches from the east. Then the grass gets and the branches of the dark cacti become full like balloons and covered in flowers, It is really beautiful, a brief dead trees become alive, adorned with tiny green leaves. nature triumphs. And then spectacle, Sebastian said, as the land celebrates and everything dies again after the rains cease… a boat, and my husband, about sailing and navigating and experienced life aboard underwater. We did two or Ivo, and Maya and I learned to scuba dive and to breathe And when we were not div- three dives per day, each time learning some new skills. of beer. ing, we were preparing food, eating it and drinking lots reputation. Taganga is a lage popular with tourists and backpackers has a strange just one mile north of Santa wide, shallow sandy bay where you can drop anchor, in Tayrona. Marta and a couple of miles south of our diving spot facing the sea, all lined uphouses, shops and restaurants, and two or three hostels beach populated by colorfulalong the main street. The street runs parallel to a long town in the heat of the day. fishing boats. Tourists and sun-stricken dogs roam the the day. Small noisy groups of proud of their kids, arrange and exhibit their catch of the sea, the fish, the foot- men holding beers form under the palm trees, discussing of the world. ball and all other existential universal cosmic problems the heat was near the fan at a occupied by sleepy dogs. Our only chance to survive delicacies. Food in Colombia cozy little restaurant serving ice-cold beer and seafood in Taganga that will blow is notoriously delicious, and there are a few restaurants you away. The avocado stuffed with yacht in the anchorage. the boat! Maya saw feet passing outside her window. Ivo darted out to investigate and defend. Three drunk English-speaking tourists, a woman and two men, had decided to swim from the beach to the only anchored yacht in the bay, because — like moths attracted to a lamp — they could see the lights of the boat, as the girl explained after Ivo popped up. This was of course an unacceptable reason to board someone’s boat at night. Angry, Ivo sent them swimming back to the beach. unforgettable memories. These past few days, full of so many shared emotions and new experiences, were the best, most fun days of our visit to Colombia. For Cata and Sebastian the time spent aboard come true. For us, learn- ing to scuba dive was a dream come true as well, and a unique opportunity to become PADI certified in Santa Marta, Colombia. band and their daughter are sailing around the world and have been liv- ing off the grid full-time aboard as small lobsters, are still fragrant in my memory. village where time almost if we were to avoid trouble. The small quaint fishermen’s stops in the heat of the day becomes the playground of drug addicts, gamblers and prostitutes, we were told. As we were drifting to sleep in our bunks that night we listened tensely for any distant symptoms of criminality. since July 2013. Their since July 2013. Their journey is documented in a travel-adventure blog, www.thelifenomadik.com. Follow them on Facebook @The Life Nomadik. S/V Fata See more about was an inspiration S/V Fata Morgana Right: For our new scuba-diver friends, at http://www.caribbeancompass.com/ Compass ) sailing aboard BREATHING UNDERWATER UNDERWATER BREATHING aboard our 38-foot Leopard catamaran, cerveza Aguila AND TRADING DREAMS-COME-TRUE TRADING AND , and set sail for a lonely little bay on the southwest shore of Tayrona We loaded the scuba equipment, 15 tanks, many bags of food and countless cases We dropped anchor not far from the uninhabited rocky shores where the last hills Cata and Sebastian are both professional divers and scuba instructors, and are the It happened to my 11-year-old daughter, Maya. She came back enchanted one day Under water, the world is different. Dark, cold, dense, slow and mysteriously Under water, the world is different. Dark, cold, dense, of Colombian of the Sierra Nevada plunge into the Caribbean Sea. It is a windy anchorage, espe- cially at night, but the holding is excellent in sand. The land here is wrinkled with soft hills, thirsty and desolate, covered with yellow grass, withered cacti, and owners of the dive shop Deep Coral near the aquarium in the area of Rodadero, one of a few dive shops in the Santa Marta area (www.deepcoral.co or Facebook/Deep Coral). With 15 years of diving experience all around the world — Indonesia, South Africa, Europe, The Bahamas, many of the Caribbean islands and the USA — and with an ever-growing passion for the underwater world, Cata, along with her partner Sebastian, are quite possibly the best scuba diving instructors on the entire Caribbean coast of Colombia. It turned out that both Cata and Sebastian love the idea of sailing, too, and dream of someday cruising and living aboard a sailboat, like we do. Just a few hours after we met, we decided to organize an epic sailing-scuba-diving-beer- drinking trip to Tayrona, one of Colombia’s most popular coastal nature parks. two years ago when she peeked under the water surface in the shallows of a small island. There, at two metres depth, lay the skeleton of an old ship, its dark rusty bones overgrown with corals and barnacles, inhabited by small fishes, shrimps and crabs. Since then, Maya joined the water creatures and became one of them. She would snorkel and free-dive all the time, every time going deeper, holding her breath longer. But her dream to breathe underwater — where the lobsters, the stingrays and the eels hide — without having to come out for air, came true only recently, after we met Cata Aponte Bohoquez and Sebastian Hernandez Gaviria in Santa Marta, Colombia. Top: Maya and Cata Aponte Bohoquez, teaching Maya how to scuba-dive Top: Maya and Cata Aponte Bohoquez, teaching Maya with tourists Above: Taganaga, Colombia, a fishermen’s village popular and backpackers online/april15compass_online.pdf Morgana National Park, only four nautical miles north of Santa Marta. ( Tayrona Park in the April issue of silent. You hear your own breathing. You hear your thoughts. You hear muffled silent. You hear your own breathing. You hear your It is strange. The first time sounds sometimes — faraway thunder and gentle bells. Often, those who enter the underwater with goggles and a snorkel is unforgettable. cold and completely enchant- sea for a first time return to shore panting — wet and weightless again — like flying ed. They cannot stop dreaming of the deep, of being — inside this alien world of strange colors and shapes. Nencheva Mira by OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 of communities. inanumber 2015 anddistributethemtofishermen will takealldonateditemstoHaitiduringFebruary will begivenuponrequest. supplies arealsowelcome.Areceiptforyourdonation Republic (www.marinazarpar.com). Schoolandfirst-aid or toMarinaZarParinBocaChica,Dominican Ave., Bronx,NY10464(www.minnefordmarina.com) sent toeitherMinnefordMarinaat150CityIsland SECOND LIFESAILS YOUR USEDSAILSWANTED! Frank Virgintino, developerofFreeCruisingGuides, Donations ofusedsailsandfishingequipmentcanbe of the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) of theSevenSeasCruisingAssociation(SSCA) at [email protected] in ajointventurewithFreeCruisingGuides. Catherine [email protected]. For more information contactFrankVirgintinoFor moreinformation Designed to benefit fishermen inHaiti, Designed tobenefitfishermen isaCleanWake Project

night’s sleep.Wecalculatedthattheygotupat4:00 topped fullwithgrapefruits,astheywereelatedthatfinallyhadagood come here!),whichwassharedwiththewholecommunity. bottle of“TropicalBush”(ourlocalSurinameserepellent,amust-buyifyou bugged bymosquitoesatnightandcouldn’taffordrepellent,wegavethema KENMORE HENVILLE / BEQUIAPHOTOACTION.COM open minded,thelocalswillacceptyouasawelcomevisitortotheirisland. their farmland,pickthefruitandwalkdownagain.Awonderfulgesture. Next morning(theyknewwewouldleaveearly),theybroughtusahugesack When wevisitedatinyvillageonSt.Vincentanddiscoveredthatpeoplewere Petra andJanWillemVersolhavecruisedtheCaribbeanaboardtheir40-foot Make friendswiththelocals.Putanyprejudiceaside.Ifyouarefriendlyand MAKE Witte Raaf FOR NEWCARIBBEANCRUISERS since2006,andalsohaveahomeinSuriname. THE LOCALS MORE OLDSALTS’TIPS FRIENDS WITH AM toclimbthemountain OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 , a 115-foot , a 115-foot Sojana www.caribbeancompass.com/back- at on how to preserve and mizzens. on how to preserve mainsails Compass Part Two: Compass SEAWISE WITH DON STREET SEAWISE ) — with the turnbuckle at the mast, and the stay being set up with Preserving Your Headsails Preserving And finally, regularly check your headsails and restitch the leech and the foot One last tip to extend the life of your headsails: With older headsails, you Visit Don Street’s website at www.street-iolaire.com Headsails UV rays, especially during long exposure while the Headsails are damaged by sunburn problem on the leech and foot of roller- Many try to eliminate the I first saw these The better solution is to hoist a cover for the roller headsail. for a few days and the Hoist a cover whenever the boat is not going to be used is that, because of One problem with the covers for roller furling headsails to the sun, cutting If only parts of a sail are damaged from being overexposed your Dacron sails have Graham Knight once pointed out the test to tell if Hanked-On Headsails is easy if they are Preserving hanked-on headsails from UV degradation sailmaker along with To make a double-zippered turtle bag, take the sail to the As the late Rod “the Great God Rod” Stephens always said, the turnbuckle for For those that have a removable staysail stay that is properly set up The Caribbean sun can burn not only your skin, but your boat’s sails as well. The Caribbean sun can burn See last month’s issue of issues.html a proper lever that will tension the stay without the necessity of a turnbuckle adjustment — the sail is right down at the bottom of the stay and stowing the staysail in a turtle bag is the way to go. It is left on the stay, sailbag and stay can be stowed alongside the mast and ready to go whenever they are needed. as well as three feet in from the leech and foot. This helps prevent splitting. When sails are being restitched, Graham says if you can persuade the sail- maker to use Cortex thread (available from various sources including Bainbridge) the thread will last longer than the sail. Sailmakers do not like this thread, however, as it is expensive and the machine must be specially set up to use it. might start noticing that when sheeted in hard, the foot and leech are tight but the body of the sail will not flatten. Des McWilliams (who was head of McWilliams Sails in Crosshaven, Ireland and is now head of Ulmer Kolius Europe) explains the problem. Sailmakers often install tape webbing as leech and foot tabbing. As time goes by, the tabbing shrinks while the sail does not. If a well-used sail is spread out and the tabbing removed, it will be seen that the tabbing is con- siderably shorter than the sail. The sailmaker can then resew the tabbing back onto the sail, adding extra tabbing as necessary. You’ll have a vastly improved headsail, good for a few more years. This month, we’ll talk about protecting your headsails. This month, we’ll talk about — which for cruisers can be a lot of the time. boat is not actually sailing on a sacrificial layer of Sunbrella about 18 inches furling headsails by sewing and does not improve the set of the sail. Some boats wide. But it looks like hell the same color as the sail material, so it is use a sacrificial layer of material the long-time skipper of not noticeable. Mark Fitzgerald, white emulsion paint, Farr ketch, paints the leech and foot of his sails with which has proved to minimize UV damage. common on German covers in the Baltic in the late 1990s; they were quite 2011 US Sailboat Show yachts. Now they are available in the States; during the had their roller head- I saw five boats in the Annapolis Yacht Club marina that flap in the wind. After sails protected by full-length covers. The covers do not through a hook-and- they are hoisted, they are tightened via a lanyard threaded eye arrangement. headsail will last an incredibly long time. Knight of Antigua friction, there is a limit to how big they can be made. Graham luff length. Above that Sails feels that 60 feet is about the maximum practical to facilitate easily hoist- size, friction between the cover and the sail is too great it won’t always be ing and dousing the cover. If hoisting the cover is difficult, UV degradation. done and the headsail’s leech and foot will suffer from high-cut can make the the “sunburned” material from the leech and foot of a the 150-percent J1 into a J2. This can also be done on genoas, reducing to a 135. sail needle and push it been severely weakened by UV degradation: Take a well: the sail can be res- through the material. If it goes through cleanly, all is needle goes through, the titched or repaired. But if there is a “pop” as the material is shot. hanked onto the stay stowed in double-zipper turtle bags, as they can stowed When it’s time to hoist, — ready to be hoisted but protected inside the bag. away. unzip the double zippers, attach the sheets and hoist the stay on to which the a short piece of rod a little larger than the diameter of the rod, then lightly ten- sail is to be hanked. Spread the sail out, hank it on to so that the length sion the clew and flake the sail down. Fold the clew forward from the stay to the mast. of the flaked-down sail is approximately the distance zipper. Close the forward Then have the sailmaker make a bag with a full-length closing the bag with end of the bag around the rod that represents the stay, Then have the sail- either a hook-and-eye lashing or a flap secured by Velcro. is closed the sailbag maker install a second zipper, so when the second zipper sew a number of forms a very tight tube (a “turtle”). Then have the sailmaker webbing straps to the bottom of the bag, long enough to go around the bag to secure the bag to the lifelines when the sail is dropped and stowed in port. adjusting the headstay should be at the masthead. Then when the time comes to switch headsails it is easy to hank on the headsail to be hoisted underneath the one that is up. If the sails are stowed in turtle bags, two headsails can be left stowed on the headstay. This means that when one is up, the one that might be switched to is already hanked on and ready to go. (see the August 2015 issue of MAKING SAILS LAST SAILS MAKING and give them longer life? How can you protect them Safety First The first feature, hits the appropriate sent out with the sent out with the Distress call to every DSC-equipped radio and certainly most and certainly most important thing, is for safety. That red “Distress” button on the front of your radio is designed to send out a continuous Mayday call if you press it for at least five seconds. If your radio is hooked up to a GPS, your position will automatically be will have already chosen the Leaky Tub was trying to contact them. in the addresses, and hit a few buttons. . They simply can use the “Individual Call’ Cranky Pants Cranky Pants wasn’t aboard, but the radio was on, on their

Leaky Tub Leaky Tub by Ken Goodings

Leaky Tub wants to call

will get a chirp of some sort from their radio, which will get progressivelywill get a chirp of some sort from their radio, which will

A DSC Primer for for Primer A DSC Cranky Pants Silverheels III.

Working as a broadcast television and radio electronics technologist for 38 years at As a Designated Maritime Radio Examiner with Industry Canada, he taught and Ken Goodings cruises Eastern Caribbean with his wife Lynn Kaak on Get your VHF Owner’s manual out and do a little reading on the capabilities and At times when perhaps you aren’t feeling well, or napping, or whenever you don’t Friends Let’s say that you are entering an anchorage and you would like to know if anyone You can also do a “Position Report” to tell someone where you are. This is nice Position Request and Report where our buddy-boat The other day Lynn and I were coming into an anchorage Say Private Paging to privately “call” or “page” Another feature that is just so useful is the ability Before any of the advantages of DSC can be used, you must have a Maritime Mobile of DSC can be used, you must have a Maritime Mobile Before any of the advantages “Can I get your MMSI number?” as common among cruisers as “What’s your e-mail This question should be Caribbean Cruisers Caribbean S/V The author making a Ham Radio contact Ryerson University in Toronto, Ontario, Ken was licensed for Canadian Amateur Radio in 1981 with Ham call sign VE0SH. examined students in VHF and HF-SSB DSC Maritime Radio boating classes in Toronto from 2002 to 2008.

how to use them for your particular radio. Each radio has its idiosyncrasies, and those need to be checked for yourself. Once you start using the features available through Digital Selective Calling, you may never look back. You, too, may be one of the growing number of cruisers who include their MMSI number on their boat cards. want to hear the general calls on the local cruisers’ calling channel, you can turn down the volume or change to another channel. If someone pages you, or there is a Distress call, your radio will still alert you to those calls. This way your friends, at least, can get hold of you, even if you may be feeling a little anti-social toward the rest of the world. you know (and have in your radio address book) is there. A “Polling Request” will call out to your friends’ VHF radios, and any of them in range will answer, provided that their radio is switched on. when buddy boating and also in areas where you might not feel comfortable about giving your coordinates out loud on VHF. Sometimes a group of boats will buddy up to traverse an area where they may not feel comfortable. Maintaining radio contact is nice, and one can create a common “Group MMSI” number for all of the boats in the , like making a multi-party conference call. You can do positional informa- tion to the whole group, or page them, if you wish. friends had arranged a mooring for us next to them. But we didn’t know where they friends had arranged a mooring for us next to them. But them while they were deal- were. Rather than call on the radio and possibly distract radio (hooked up to their ing with their mooring, we did a “Position Request”. Their We saw where they were GPS) told our radio (and our chartplotter) their position. and they didn’t have to do another thing. Their radio has the ability to auto-respond to those kinds of requests, as does ours. return they will see on the radio that Leaky Tub another boat. Let’s be honest: we’ve all heard those boats in an anchorage that call another boat. Let’s be honest: we’ve all heard those boats to call a boat 20 times within each other every five minutes, or the person who tries to desist, or you turn off five minutes. You wish you could find a way to get them lives a little easier. your radio to limit the chatter. DSC can make everyone’s louder, to let them know that they are being paged. within range (radios with an MMSI number). If any of those receiving vessels have within range (radios with an MMSI number). If any of see your position on their their GPS chartplotter hooked up, they can actually a lot easier and more screens. This certainly makes getting help in an emergency an easy thing to do in effective. Trying to clearly give your location is not necessarily go to channel 16 and do it the an emergency. This makes it error free. Then you can more traditional way. option on their DSC menu, find be on a working channel sobuttons on their radio, and both radios will miraculously the conversation may begin (actually, else will know about it unlessworking channel when setting up the call). And no one out of lurking, but you can’tthey scan all of the channels. Granted, it takes the fun have everything. And if Service Identity (MMSI) number. This can be obtained from your country of registry This can be obtained from your country of registry Service Identity (MMSI) number. to your favourite internet search engine and find out how or documentation. Fire up any it varies for each country, we won’t discuss it here in get one for your boat. Since owners of US-flagged vessels that a BoatUS number greater detail, except to remind database, and is meant only for domestic use. For every- is not on the international when you apply for your MMSI is on an international one else, the information given by maritime search and rescue organizations. database that can be accessed address and phone number?” After all, we rely on our VHF radios for communica- address and phone number?” by Selective Calling (DSC) is incredibly underutilized tion, yet the utility of Digital be since there are features available that seem to cruisers. This is surprising, mind. designed with the cruiser in OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 Moon throughthevariationsoflightandshadowsmountainscraters. bright anddarksideoftheMoon.Youmightbeabletoimaginelandscape one halfofadegreefromJupiter. closest approachtotheSunaroundNovember15th. C/2013 US10thatwilldropbelowthehorizonovernextfewdaysasitmakesits lation ScorpiusandthreedegreesbelowthesliverMoon.SeeFigure3findcomet for usafterthe1748sunset.Lookingwest,Saturnwillbelocatednearconstel- Halley’s debrisfieldinafewdays. billion milesaway.TheEarthwillbeginpassingthrough Figure 2isthecurrentlocationofHalley’sCometatover3.2 before theSunisarelativelybrightMercury.Includedin through thisperiod.Locatednearthehorizonandrisingjust planets arepositionedforaseriesofconjunctionsorpairings in theeasternskyjustbeforeSunrisesat0557.The year 2062. life onEarth. ices thatcouldhaveprovidedthechemicalbuildingblocksof ments, inpart,detectedcomplexmoleculeslockedHalley’s be madetobringthespacecraftbackonline.Theinstru- the spacecraftandknockeditoffcourse.Correctionshadto at arateofthreetonspersecond.Alargedustparticlestruck from thecomet’sdebris.Debriswasejectedcomet shielded forprotectionbutstillreceivedextensivedamage a comet’snuclei,asshowninFigure1.Thespacecraftwas was thefirsttimeaspacecraftcamecloseenoughtolookat period willalsobombardEarthanditsatmosphere. Halley’s Comet.Othermeteorshowerspresentduringthis the secondmeteorshowerresultingfrompassingof shower occurringbetweenOctober2ndandNovember7this from Halley’sComet’sorbitalpath.TheOrionidmeteor to Mid-November Mid-October The Skyfrom The Orionidmeteorspeak Wednesday, October21st The Moonisatfirstquarter.Lookthroughbinocularstheareasbetween Tuesday, October20th Mars continuestomovecloserJupiter.Thismorningitispositionedlessthan Saturday, October17th This eveningtheMoonandSaturnwillmakeacloseapproachbecomevisible At 0530hoursVenus,JupiterandMarswillshinebright Friday, October16th Halley’s CometwillreturntoEarth’snightskyinthe In 1986theEuropeanSpaceAgency’s(ESA)Giottomission Twice ayearEarthpassesthroughthedebrisleftbehind Well, atleastpartsofit. The EarthmeetsHalley’sComet! B &CFUELSENTERPRISE Easily approachedfromCarriacou, UnionI.,PalmI.&PSV Tel/Fax: (473)443-9110email: [email protected] FUEL •OILWATERICE Contact: GlennClementorReynold Belmar The bestfueldockintheGrenadinesfor: Cheapest pricesintheGrenadines Unobstructed dockincalmwater Suitable forLargePowerYachts 16-18 feetofwateralongside Petite Martinique

tonight. TheEarthisnowpassingthroughthedebris by JimUlik THE CARIBBEANSKY:FREESHOWNIGHTLY!

FIGURE 1 ESA 0114 willpresentminimalinterferenceasitisapproachingtheNewMoonstage. about tenmeteorsperhouroriginatingfromTaurustheBull.TheMoonrisingat expected tobevisiblebetweenOctober20thandNovember10th.Therecould to Mars.ThedistancebetweenVenusandMarsislessthanonedegree. appear largerthannormalbecausethisisthelastSupermoonfor2015. Uranus is100-percentilluminatedandthreedegreesnorthoftheMoon. in theeasternsky.Youwillhavetobeupbeforesunriseseethempairup. hour. Theseareveryfastmeteorsthattravelat150,000mph(241,402km/h) Moon setsat0006hours.Therecouldbe25meteorsstreamingthroughtheskyper tion Orionthatwillriseafter2200.Thebesttimetoviewtheshoweris left behindfromHalley’sComet.Theapparentsourceoftheshowerisconstella- over 13degreessouthlatitude. best timetofindmeteorsisaftermidnight. and leavelongtrails.TheshootingstarsoriginatefromtheeastinLeo.Asusual, meteors perhour.Thesearetravelingover161,000mph(259,000km/h) one totrackoverthenextfewdays.Therecouldbeanywherefromten100ormore trio ofMars,VenusandtheMoontaketheirplaceinVirgoonNovember7th. next twomornings.JupiterandthesliverMoonarepaireduponNovember6th.The • Allslipswithfingers • Shorepower30,50and100amps • ABYCcertifiedmachanics • 70TonTravelift(30'beam) • Slipsto120’withdepth10’ • HighQualityShelteredMoorings Tonight isthepeakofSouthernTauridmeteorshower.Shootingstarsare Thursday, November5th Venus hasbeenmovingawayfromJupiterandnowreacheditsclosestpoint Tuesday, November3rd The FullMoonoccursat0805butdoesn’triseforusuntil1809.will Tuesday, October27th Look inthesoutheastskyaround2200.Itmaybealittledifficulttoseebut The conjunctionsofplanetscontinuesasVenusappearsonedegreeawayfromJupiter Sunday, October25th The NewMoonmomentisat1347.ItnearlyinlinewiththeSunandcurrently Wednesday, November11th Tonight markstheappearanceofLeonidsmeteorshower.Thisshowermaybe Monday, November9th The MoonisaddedtotheconjunctionsbetweenMars,VenusandJupiterover Friday andSaturday,November6th7th Zar-Par Marina Visit: marinazarpar.comemail: [email protected] M a

Tel: 8095235858VHF Channel 5

r

Z i THE FOCALPOINTFORCRUISINGYACHTSMENT &7milesEastofInternationalAirport • 12milesEastofSantoDomingo • DinghyDock • FreeWIFIandInternet • Immigrationofficeinthemarinaforclearance • Showers,Laundry,Restaurant,24hrsecurity Dominican Republic —Continued onnextpage in 1986 an imagetaken Halley’s Cometfrom and nucleusof The ejectedparticles 69.36.67W 18.25.50N . . OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35

FIGURE 3 FIGURE 4 NASA Email: [email protected] 952 476 090 www.edwardwilliam.com Below: NASA launching satellites from the International Space Station Below: NASA launching satellites from the International and arrange cover for Private and Pleasure marine insurance on their behalf. Insurers terms and conditions apply Insurers marine insurance on their behalf. and arrange cover for Private and Pleasure Any Craft, Any Use, Any Age, Anywhere! Tel: +34 Tel: and complete the online proposal form and complete the online proposal Edward William Marine Services are appointed on behalf of an E.U. fully authorised and regulated Insurer to offer quotations Insurer appointed on behalf of an E.U. fully authorised and regulated William Marine Services are Edward BOAT INSURANCE BOAT • Careful sailors rewarded with no claims discounts sailors rewarded • Careful Steel & Timber including Ferro, • All hull types considered, • For no obligation quotation call us or go to our website industries wanted in all ports, waters & related • Introducers commissions available • Generous Above: The Moon and Saturn conjunction in the western sky Above: The Moon and Saturn conjunction in the western on October 16th at 1815 hours sky. Left: Venus, Jupiter, Mars and Mercury in the morning from Earth The current position of Halley’s Comet is 3.2 billion miles

FIGURE 2 is a photographer and cruiser currently S/V Merengue Continued from previous page Continued from Jim Ulik of All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) unless otherwise noted. The All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) unless In the News and engineers together to One company has seen the value of putting artists Sunday, November 15th to the night sky. The Iota- There is one more meteor shower this period to add Saturday, November 14th Saturday, November every increase in frequency in 1925, the Alpha-Monocerotids First documented Thursday, November 12th Thursday, November per hour. The tonight at ten meteors Taurid meteor shower peaks The Northern times are based on the viewing position in Grenada and may vary by only a few times are based on the viewing position in Grenada and minutes in different Caribbean locations. enhance its creative process in product development. This company is launching a enhance its creative process in product development. real-time photographic and series of satellites into orbit that would give on demand stage the user will get less video access to any place on Earth (see Figure 4). At this access permits the tracking than one metre resolution of the desired area. Real-time immediate oversight of ports, of cars, trucks, ships and planes. It also allows for the company’s purpose is to help factories, cropland and oceans across the globe. The solve commercial, environmental, and humanitarian challenges. based in Grenada. Aurigids is a minor shower of meteors that originate from the constellation Auriga. Aurigids is a minor shower of meteors that originate November 15th and 16th, this That is the constellation just north of Orion. Peaking November 1st and 23rd. shower can produce shooting stars anytime between ten years. That could make 2015 a potential year for a high volume of shooting year for a high volume could make 2015 a potential ten years. That hour. In 1995 estimated 2,000 meteors an the shower produced an stars. In 1935, be on November the peak is predicted to than 400 in an hour. While there were more and December between November 14th may happen any night 21st, the shower is narrow, the complete shower may only last from 2nd. Because the debris stream one hour, so you will need some patience while watching a few minutes to less than know when the shower will happen. The meteors origi- the sky because you never not will rise in the east around 2200. Moonlight will nate from Canis Minor, which interfere tonight. meteors appear to originate from the Seven Sisters in Taurus. to originate from the Seven meteors appear — OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36

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Readersoftheprintversionthisbook canaccessthevideolibrarybyvisiting loaded fromgoogleplay.com,barnesandnoble.com, itunes.apple.comandamazon. this bookplusaspecialcloud-basedvideo library. plement theprintedition,eBookhas links toallreferencematerialcontainedin How toRaisea Available fromonlinebookstoresand www.landlpardey.com.Anenhanced, Publisher LinPardeysaysthatonce,observingagroupofcruisingkids,“Ifound The threeauthors,whoallspeakfromanabundanceofexperience,havededicated Frankly, thisisoneofthebest“howto”booksI’veeverread.Itleadsyouthrough Voyaging withKids:Aguidetofamilylifeafloat Whether youplantosail Gary “CaptainFatty”Goodlander,inhisForeword,writes,“Thereisonlyonething Aside fromtheexpectedtopicssuchasmedicalcare,provisioningforafamily, Family atSea en famille Voyaging withKids forjustaseasonorlifetime,withonechild isalsoavailable.Designedtocom- Voyaging withKids Voyaging withKids , byBehanGifford,SaraDawn canbedown- isnotonly OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 Paw paw, good for whatever ails you — and delicious, too! Paw paw, good for whatever ails you — and delicious, Papaya has long been known to contain an enzyme, papain, which helps to tender- Papaya has long been known leaves have also been traditionally believed to aid in platelet production, which may leaves have also been traditionally believed to aid in platelet with clotting disorders. An be beneficial for those suffering with dengue fever and papaya. The leaves are also upset stomach can sometimes be settled with some that seems to help made into tea to combat malaria, as there is some mechanism have an interest in becoming combat the malaria virus. However, gentlemen, if you to be a correlation between a father, go easy on the papaya seeds as there seems production! (Don’t worry; increased papaya seed consumption and decreased sperm it is temporary.) dried seeds have a peppery taste, and have found uses in some Asian cooking. The taste, and have found uses in some Asian cooking. dried seeds have a peppery also used in Indonesian cuisine. young leaves and flowers are the fruit and also in the leaves and stalks of the trees; ize meat. Papain is found in in commercial operations as the papain is used more than just the fruit is harvested For the tougher cuts of meat, the fruit and leaves make in some meat tenderizers. flavour and for making the meat more edible. Papaya an excellent marinade for both ) is by Lynn Kaak Carica papaya The typical papaya, or paw paw The typical papaya, or paw At the market, the ripe papayas The papaya ( believed to have originated in in believed to have originated southern Mexico and Central spread America. It has since with throughout the tropics along the European colonies, becoming a major cash crop in India. sees as it is also known, that one in the Caribbean is generally variety, known as the “Mexican” vari- as opposed to the “Hawaiian” pro- ety. The “Hawaiian” variety papa- duces small, single-serving weight. yas of about half a kilo in However, anyone who has been to a market in the Caribbean knows that the local paw paws can attain weights of up to four and a half kilos or so. are yellow or orange, and can be a little bit soft to the touch. If you happen to get a green one and are impatient for it to ripen, score the skin a bit to let some of the latex bleed out and it will ripen much faster! The flesh can be reddish to pinkish, ranging all the way to an orange or yellow colour. Books are available from iUniverse and Amazon

Succulent ripe papaya is a very popular breakfast fruit, cut into slices, added to a Succulent ripe papaya is a very popular breakfast fruit, Papayas grow quite readily in the right conditions. With plenty of heat and sun, Papayas grow quite readily in the right conditions. With The papaya tree has male, female, hermaphrodite and bisexual differences. The The papaya tree has male, female, hermaphrodite and Papayas grow on a tree that achieves a height of about four to five metres, with Papayas grow on a tree that achieves a height of about As you travel through the Caribbean, every month there’s something special to look every month there’s something special to look As you travel through the Caribbean, LOOK OUT FOR… OUT LOOK Papaya — Get Those Digestive Juices Flowing! Juices Digestive Get Those — Papaya fruit salad or whipped into a smoothie. Hard green papaya can be cooked like a fruit salad or whipped into a smoothie. Hard green easy to create preserves. The squash. The fruit has a high pectin content, making it lots of water, and good drainage, a papaya seed will quickly grow into a tree. lots of water, and good drainage, a papaya seed will long, the roots will quickly rot However, if the roots are immersed or drowned for too for cultivation throughout the and the tree will die. This makes papaya excellent Caribbean, with the possible exception of in a rainforest. hermaphrodites can be self-pollinating, making them the preferred plants for com- hermaphrodites can be self-pollinating, making them growing on stalks, while mercial purposes. The male plants have their waxy flowers of the tree, allowing the the female has single flowers growing close to the trunk papayas that will change maturing fruit more support as it grows. There are some sex if the top of the tree is cut off. rapid growth. Unless the tree has been damaged, there is no branching out, and the rapid growth. Unless the tree has been damaged, there of the single stalk. The trunk broad leaves spread out in a spiral pattern from the top that was lost during the or stalk is not smooth, as it bears the scars of the foliage months, are from 30 centime- tree’s growth. The leaves, which last from four to six These large leaves have very tres to a full metre long, and 30 to 60 centimetres wide. support and nourishment to noticeable yellow-hued ribs and veins, which provide from five to nine divisions. the main leaf segments, of which there can be anywhere out for. What are those exotic-looking plants — or are they trees? — with the gala plants — or are they trees? — with the gala out for. What are those exotic-looking closely clustered fruits? topknots of wide leaves and OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 the otherside.Removeandplaceonpapertodrain. splash andburnyou.Cookpiesforoneminutefliptocookgoldenbrownon pies in,beingcarefulnottocrowdthem.Placethegentlysohotoildoes is nospaceforleaking.Useaforktopressthesealededgestightlytogether. is soft,addthefetacheeseandsetmixtureasidetocool. add thespinach.Coverandcookoverslowheatfor20minutes.Whenspinach vegetable oil.Whenhotaddthegarlicandonion,cookforaboutoneminutethen roll themout. for 15minutes.Asyoucookeachfilling,taketheneedednumberofdoughballsand Set asideforamoment.Taketheflourmixandbreakitintosmallballs.Letballssit water andfoldtheflourinordertocaptureair(thiswillmakepiecrustlight). coconut chutney. We growalotofdifferentveggiessoIexperimentwithcombinationsflavors. different thanwhatcanbeeasilyfoundonthestreetsofPortSpainorChaguanas. mits meandmykitchensomedowntime.Itrytodoafewdozen,makethem hand piesinacalm,wake-freeanchorageormarina. enlarged tomakeafamilymeal.Hotoilisinvolved,so,boaters,planyour downsized forentertaining—muchbetterthanwhateverpotstickersareor thing toospicythatmightcauseanawkwardburpduringearlymorningmeeting! Potato-and-cheese oragoodcheesealoneisexquisite.Youdon’twanttoingestany- like our choice: potatoesarenotexpensiveandfillabellyaswellanythingelse.WeTrinis as tohowfreshthemeatisorevenwhatreallyis.Irishpotatoapopular taste. I’veneverbeenafanofbeefpiesbecauseI’mnotthatmuchtrustingsoul per youenjoy.Thekeyisnottodripuponyourworkoutfitorthree-piecesuit. hands afteryourpiehasbeensplitandsmearedwithwhateverchutneyorbitterpep- comes toeatingapie.Ifyou’relucky,thestreet-sidevendorhasplacerinseyour be aMinisterofGovernment.Andtherearecertainlynoeffectivemannerismswhenit fast. Youneverknow,thepersonstandingnexttoyouinlineforvendorcould islands. Thereisnoageorsocio-economicgroupspecificforenjoyingapiebreak- breakfast-on-the-go, anotherisonitsway! “empanadas”. Regardlessofwhatyoucallit,oncehavetastedthisCaribbean “pies”; inJamaicaandupislandtheyare“patties”;PuertoRicothey’reknownas TRINIDAD HANDPIES In amediumskilletaddtheCupofvegetableoilandheatwell.Whenhot,place Roll outpiecesofdough,placeaspoonfulfillingoneach,andfoldsothatthere Wash thespinachandcutintoone-inchpieces.InaskilletaddTablespoonof 1 Cupofvegetableoilforfrying 4 ouncesoffetacheese,crumbled 4 clovesofgarlicminced 1 mediumonion,minced 1 Tablespoonvegetableoil 1/2 bunchofspinach* Spinach andFetaCheeseHandPies Place flourinamediumbowl,addthebakingpowderandsaltmix.Slowly dash ofsalt 1 Cupwater 1 Tablespoonbakingpowder 2 Cupsall-purposeflour Hand PieDough If entertaining,provideavarietyofdippingsauces,suchastamarind,mangoor I usethesamerecipe(below)whenmakingdoughforallmypies. Every fewmonthsItrytosupplymyhouseholdwithavarietyofpies—thatper- Although atraditionalbreakfasttreat,handpiesaregreatanytime.Piescanbe There aresomanywaysofmakingpiesandtheirfillings—italldependsonyour Pies areinexpensive,tastyandfilling,makingthemapopularfastfoodinthe I saytheyare“handpies”becauseeatenoutofhand.Triniscallthem aloo (potato) pies long and thin. I’ve had fish pies but the bones are a drag. (potato)pieslongandthin.I’vehadfishbutthebonesareadrag. CARIBBEAN COOKINGBYSHIRLEYHALL plant ern US.Itisred-skinnedandwhite-fleshed,butmuchsweeterthananIrishpotato. Heat theoilandfollowcookingprocedureasforspinachfetacheesepies. you canusefreshoil.Again,rolloutyourdoughballs,placethefilling,foldandseal. cheese, onionandgarlic(andcuminifusing),mixwell. with water,letcookforabout15minutesanddrain.Mashthepotato,add more common. Let cookforoneminute,flipanduntilgoldenbrown. edge. HeattheCupofoilandplacepiesingentlysodoesnotsplashonyou. dough balls,andaddthefillingfold.Alwaysuseaforktopresssealopen utes. Addthechickenpiecesandmixwell.Aswithotherrecipes,rolloutyour remaining ingredientsexceptchicken.Cover,reduceheatandletcookfor14min- remove andstripintosmallpieces. to aboil,addthechickenbreast,coverandsimmerfor20minutes.Whencooked, Heat theoilandfollowcookingprocedureasforspinachfetacheesepies. the otheringredients.Again,rolloutyourdoughballs,placefilling,foldandseal. * NorthAmericansandEuropeansknowspinachastheshortdark-greenleafy * ACaribbeansweetpotatoisnottheorange-coloredpopularinsouth- You canusetheoilfromyourspinachandfetacheesepiestocookthisrecipeor Peel thesweetpotatoandcutintoone-inchpieces.Placeinapot,cover (you canaddadashofcuminforspicytaste) 1 Cupgratedcheddarcheese 2 clovesgarlic,minced 1 mediumonion,choppedsmall 1 poundsweetpotato* Sweet PotatoandCheddarHandPies Shirley Hallistheauthorof In amediumpotaddoneTablespoonofvegetableoil.Whenhot,pakchoyand Wash pakchoyandchopfinely;setaside.Inasmallpot,bringonecupofwater 1 Cupofvegetableoil 1 seasoningpepper,seededandminced 4 clovesofgarlic,minced 3 leavesofchadonbene,minced 1 mediumonion,minced 1 Tablespoonvegetableoil 1/2 poundofchickenbreast,skinnedandseasonedwithsaltpepper 1 headofpakchoy Pak ChoyandChickenHandPies Combine alltheingredientsinabowl.Useyourhandstoworksaltfishwellinto 1 clovegarlic,minced 1 tomato,cutintosmallpieces 1 mediumonion,minced 1 mediumsweetpepper,finelychopped 3 ouncesbonelesssaltfish,wellrinsedanddrained Salt FishPieswithVegetables appear in of the Ahoy, Sunbay Marina Puerto delReyMarina,Fajardo Palmas delMarYachtClub,Humacao Marina Pescaderia,CaboRojo Isleta Marina,Fajardo Culebra West Marine,Fajardo Spinacia oleracea Caribbean Compass Compass bold PICK UP! ): Readers!WheninPuertoRico,pickupyourfreemonthlycopy , Fajardo . 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CHRIS DOYLE Readers, Compass The mooring ball that the operator assured us was We want to caution readers visiting Canouan. On So, to sum it up, I’m asking those in power: please So, to sum it up, I’m asking the importance of theWe’re told that, understanding With regard to anchoring and/or mooring within the Once the management plan is completed, a second A little background: Grenada — along with Antigua CRIME CONCERN IN CANOUAN strong enough for our catamaran was not. The moor- ing ball was detached and dragging the chain when we dove down to look at it. —Continued on next page September 8th we visited Charlestown Bay. While September 8th we visited Charlestown Bay. While Charlestown Bay was lovely, the overall experience was not. a finite budget, so every dollar spent on a mooring is a so every dollar spent on a finite budget, this doesn’t elsewhere; in other words, dollar not spent just spreads income for the economy, it generate more cruisers have thinner. Secondly, all the same amount have tackle that they trust. Moorings their own ground and for for being poorly maintained a bad reputation responsibility the moorings taking no the owners of Many cruis- moorings “go walkabout”. when boats and will go with mandatory moorings, ers, when faced else in not necessarily somewhere somewhere else, has the capital cost of Grenada. Bottom line: someone and businesses here will moorings with few renters customers. have lost a number of frequent that is neither ecologi- don’t close down an anchorage habitat, and by doing so cally sensitive or a unique that contributes to the getting rid of a community St. George’s. economy of Grenada and particularly John Tulloch S/Y Unleaded Dear John, special considerationsyachting community to Grenada, Community to air theirwere given to the Pandy Yacht of the Grand Anse areaconcerns regarding the conversion utilize the Pandy Beachinto a MPA. The cruisers who the Fisheries Division (theanchorage were invited by the establishment of MPAs inagency that is spearheading attended, and the cruisers’Grenada) to the meeting you views expressed at the meeting were formally noted. area, we are told that (as of this writing) no final deci- sion has yet been made. A consultant was on the ground in August working on the development of a man- agement plan for the area, which includes a proposed zoning plan. The development of the zoning plan will include ground-truthing (i.e. diving) to validate the cur- rent habitat and resource maps for the area. This will inform the Fisheries Division on the actual habitat and resources within the area. Although the seabed in the area is now largely sand and rubble, we are told that the area has historically been a patch reef system; therefore, analysis of its current status and its potential to regenerate are critical before any action is taken. round of consultations will commence and all stake- holders including the yachting community will have another opportunity to comment on the proposed plans before the document is finalized and entered into force. & Barbuda, The Bahamas, the BVI, the Dominican Republic, Jamaica, Puerto Rico, St. Kitts & Nevis, St. Lucia and St. Vincent & the Grenadines — has joined the Caribbean Challenge Initiative, which commits the country to conserving at least 20 percent of its near- shore marine and coastal environments as MPAs by the year 2020. The Caribbean Challenge Initiative was launched in 2008 and, so far, participating CCI countries have declared 50 new marine/coastal pro- tected areas. CC Dear Charlestown Bay in Canouan is beautiful, but beware boarders

' S R E M , , D U A R Compass Compass E O It has been rumored that this is being done to turn ANOTHER PORT IN PUERTO RICO ANOTHER PORT IN PUERTO article in the August Regarding Michael Sanderson’s I’d like to suggest an alternative to part of his route. KUDOS FOR OLD SALTS’ TIPS The old salts’ advice article in the September issue WHAT’S UP AT PANDY BEACH? In early May 2015, those on boats anchored outside The area then being looked at was all or part of the We, the cruisers who anchored, are concerned We are not freeloaders! We pay HM Customs for READERS' RREADERS' FFORUM cruising permits and Immigration for permission to stay here. More than that, we stay for months at a time, spending money in St. George’s stores, restau- rants, markets and bars. Closing this anchorage will have an adverse affect on the economy. what is now an anchorage into a mooring field. This is a poor idea for several reasons. First, we cruisers have Dear issue about sailing from Panama to Antigua, my hat is off to anyone that does that trip! Once a boat reaches Cabo Rojo at the southwest cor- ner of Puerto Rico, instead of plugging 35 miles dead to windward to Ponce, you can head for Puerto Real, Marina Pescadora, seven miles north of Cabo Rojo. The marina can organize clearing into US waters with Customs and Immigration. Don Street Glandore, Ireland Dear was fabulous. A fantastic array of tips from some very knowledgeable people. Well done. Nicola Cornwell Yacht Pandora An Open Letter to the Government of Grenada Dear Sirs and Madams, St. George’s, Grenada were invited to a meeting held at the fish market building. We were shown a slide presentation about marine protected areas (MPAs). Great idea; all were impressed with the concept. We were told the Government had committed to turning one quarter of Grenada’s coastline into MPAs. Good for you. coast from St. George’s Harbour to Point Saline, about 3.7 nautical miles. about the anchorage from the ship channel range (leading lights) south along the coast for about half a nautical mile. The seabed here is NOT coral, but sand and rubble. :    RAMSEY, NJ RAMSEY, WHILE OUT AT SEA! .COM .COM The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 REFUELING TENDERS & ATL INC - RAMSEY, NJ USA INC - RAMSEY, ATL EMAIL: [email protected] Compass S … and much more! ? THAN PERSONAL WATER CRAFT ALSO IDEAL FOR Barbados by Bus Caribbean Queens: Capacities 25 to Read in Next A Year in the Four Spanish Colonial Cities

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who hashelpedmanyGrenadianstoliterallygetbackontheirfeet Gylfi isnotonlyatalentedmusicianplayingatvariousvenuesinGrenada,he’salso aprostheticsexpert — ters shorterthan600words.Lettersmay beeditedforlength,clarityandfairplay. do notpublishanonymousletters;however, yournamemaybewithheldfromprintatrequest.Pleasekeeplet- e-mail) ifclarificationisrequired. Dear Dear CC extremely high. boat beingboardedinCanouancurrentlyremains were receivedasofpresstime. ongoing problemisbeingaddressed,butnoreplies and tourismofficialsinSVG,hopingtohearthatthis ently noeffectiveactionhasyetbeentaken. man whoprovidesservicestovisitingyachts,appar- Tamarind BeachHotel,ortoahelpfullocalbusiness- made reportstothepolice,CoastGuard, see allthereportsatwww.safetyandsecuritynet.com. date, nowincludingyoursandanotheraswell.Youcan dents inCanouanwerereportedtotheCSSNafterthat much largernumberofvisitingyachts.”Andmoreinci- short atime,eventhoselocationsthattypicallyattract the CaribbeanBasinsufferedsomanyincidentsin in the19-yearhistoryofCSSNhasasinglelocation Caribbean SafetyandSecurityNet(CSSN)wrote,“Never ing reportsfromtheGrenadineislandofCanouan, Dear Concerned, Concerned Cruisers Thanks, be watchful. said theywouldalertthecoastguardinareato not bestoppingthereagain. rest withthem. empty foodcontainersinthefridgebuttookall and drinks.The“uninviteddiners”leftafewofthe boat, theoutsiderefrigeratorhadbeenemptiedoffood mood fordinner,too,becausewhenwereturnedtoour the Tamarindhotel.Guesssomeoneelsewasin later decidedtohaveadrinkanddinneratthebar ball wastoprovidelocalbusiness. Ossur Kristinsson,whointroducedhimtotheworldof engineering mechanicandmachinist.In1981hemet help othersliterallygetbackontheirfeet. Grenada. Andevenbetterthatthat,youcanhelphim hear themplayinpersondifferentplaces forming withhisfriendJomo,butit’sevenbetterto tar player.YoucanseeclipsonYouTubeofhimper- Send [email protected]. We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaints orindividualregattaresultscomplaints.(Kudosareokay!)We Be suretoincludeyourname,boatname orshoresideaddress,andawaywecancontactyou(preferablyby We wanttohearfromYOU! WE WANTTOHEARFROMYOU! GIVE ALEGUP Therefore, wewarnreadersthattheriskofyour Both theCSSNand Although someofthevictimsindicatedtheyalso On July20th,regardingaheavywaveofyachtboard- You arenottheonlyoneswhoconcerned. I didcallthehotelandreporttheftthey Beautiful placebutnotthebestexperience.Wewill After quicklyclimbingaboardandanchoring,we The onlyreasonweoriginallychosetouseamooring Born andraisedinIceland,Gylfigraduatedasan Gylfi Hilmissonisafantasticmusician,greatgui- Continued frompreviouspage Compass Compass Readers, Readers Compass , havewrittentopolice Melly Ride Thank you, “Attach alegGrenada”. Any donationiswelcome.Fordetails,gotoFacebook, lots ofchildren,womenandmenarenowabletowalk. freely again. person tobeablegetoutofthewheelchairandwalk it isveryhardtoputvalueonwhatmeansfora provide prostheticaidtopeopleoflimitedmeansand This isanun-rivaledhigh-quality,low-costmethodto bers aregrowingaslongthematerialsupplieslast. have beensuccessfullyfittedwithlegsandthenum- below-knee prosthesistoamputeesinGrenada. material donationsheiscurrentlyapplyinglow-cost, with OKProstheticsprojectsinCubaandHaiti,through the Ossurcompany.Aswellasbeingactivelyinvolved Caribbean utilizingthemodularprostheticsystemfrom the opportunitytointroduceprostheticsolutions and hisnon-profitorganizationOKProsthetics,hehad last fiveyears. specifically toGrenadawherehehasresidedforthe sailboat, whichbroughthimtotheCaribbeanand USA andlaterintheITmanagementfield. California andspent11yearsinwithOssur worldwide. In1995GylfirelocatedtoSantaBarbara, thetic liners,whichhadbecomeanindustrystandard production oftherevolutionaryIcerosssiliconepros- Manager attheOssurcompanyforcommercial of Thalidomide.In1990GylfibecameProduction supported aprogramofsystemsdesignedforvictims certified technicianforarmprostheticsystemsand prosthetics. Duringacareerinthatfield,hebecame If youcanmakedonationpleasedoit.Thankstohim Through Gylfi’sefforts,sixpeopleinGrenadasofar Reconnecting withhisoldmentor,OssurKristinsson, In 2006Gylfipursuedalifelongdreamandbought OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41

 !              range of home  Compass made specialities – we also create a Not just a pizzeria CARRIACOU TYRELL BAY F D P  E T R A & BAR C  D or VHF CH 16 N REMEMBER I

W S Open 6 days a week Open 6 days a week G A L pizza in the Caribbean F PIZZERIA ☛ & serving the best thin crust & serving the best Open for lunch, dinner, drinks Open for lunch, dinner, to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in For reservations call: (473) 443 8322 10:00am – 10:00pm, closed Tuesdays 10:00am – 10:00pm, Free High Speed WI-FI & Dinghy Dock Free High Speed WI-FI continued on next page of Tyrrel Bay. Bar open all Day NEILPRYDE Sails NEILPRYDE Sails Grenada www.carriacou.net Tuesday to Saturday Tuesday 6.00 - 9.00 for Dinner 6.00 - 9.00 for Use our new Dinghy Dock Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou Tyrrel Bay, Situated on the South Side Situated Land and houses for sale Open 11.30 - 2.00 for Lunch Open 11.30 - 2.00 for Reservations recommended www.neilprydesails.com Sunday Brunch 11.30 - 14.30 Carriacou Real Estate Ltd For full details see our website: or contact Carolyn Alexander at Alexander or contact Carolyn We also handle Villa Rentals & Rentals also handle Villa We Phone (473) 443 6500 or call CH 16 e-mail: [email protected] Check out our website or contact us directly Check out our website or rugged and for a competitive quote on suited to the well-built sails that are well charter trade harsh environment of the and blue water cruising. Tel: (473) 443 8187 Fax: (473) 443 8290 Tel: Jeff Fisher – Grenada (473) 537-6355 Jeff Fisher – Grenada Property Management on Carriacou Management Property CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE

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or persons on the ground. Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean around the Caribbean Islands. a boat owner that would like an [email protected] THIS COULD BE promotional material or advertising promotional material or advertising additional income please email me. other parts of the world we would like other parts of the world we would our marine insurance products in and our marine insurance products St Martin 268-717-4536 AGENTS NEEDED Carl Olivier Guadeloupe

We are looking for agents in the boating are looking We YOUR MARKET PLACE AD Broker Spotlight Broker assist you in building your agency with any assist you in building your agency Virgin Islands Virgin +590 690 34 20 60 +590 690 58 66 06 community to represent us and recommend community to represent us and to compliment our advertising with a person to compliment our advertising Antoine Lelievre Antoine If you are in the marine business or if you are If you are in the marine business Alexis Boucaud De successful but following the success of agents in successful but following the [email protected] Our advertising has been and continues to be very Our advertising has been and [email protected] [email protected] This is a commission based opportunity and we will This is a commission based or contact your local island agent [email protected] OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 minimal electronics,perfectforaddingthenewest gear. Raymarine wind,knotanddepthmeters.Boat setupforbareboatcharteringsohas Equipment includes:FridgaboatKeelCooled refrigeration,bowthrusters, Autopilot, Lovely vesselwithexcellentmaintenancerecord, oneowner, alwaysinIYC'scare. 2007 IslandPacket445 FOR SALE Anti-Fouling Paint Contact usfor pricingandshippinginformation Andrea King,Island Yachts Charters The 10+YearThe Now available intheCaribbean E-mail: [email protected]:800-524-2019 •340-344-2143 www.coppercoastusa.com [email protected] We shiptomostislands 321.514.9197 new Yanmar 4JhJE54hp. charge controller. Newcustomcenterboard, S/S arch,6x65wattsolarpanelswith .Stalok’s Harkenfurling,new genoa tracks,primarywinches,chainplates, anchor, newstanchionsandlifelines, Maxwell windlass, for cruisingtheCaribbean.Upgradesinclude: glassed rudder. This boatissetupperfectly of thisyear. Newrudderbearingsandepoxy added, arudderkeelstrapnotonearlyIP’s hardware havebeenre-engineered. Also terboard andallcenterboardbrackets well maintainedbysecondowner. The cen- Rare centerboardtwoownerboat.Extremely 1987 IslandPacket38’ “SaltyShores” Well pricedat$399,950. autopilot, chartplotter, electricwinches. equipment stereo, VHF, 2anchors,allCoastGuard Excellent condition.Liferaft,bowthrusters, 2006 IslandPacket445“Tirnanog” , Red Hook,St.Thomas,USVI• , 12’ CaribeRIB,bimini/dodger, Asking $405,000.00.

55 lbbronzeBarnacle 30 –1Nov www.triskellcup.com 30 –1Nov 27 27 25 www.foxysbar.com/halloweencatfight 25 24 [email protected] ClubNáuticodeSanJuan(CNSJ).www.nauticodesanjuan.com 23 –25 19 17 (DíadelaRaza)andVenezuela(IndigenousResistanceDay) 16 –18 13 12 www.styc.net 10 –11 10 7 -10 www.barbadosyachtclub.com 4 and18 3 2 –3 OCTOBER 30 http://rorctransatlantic.rorc.org 28 27 –29 www.stluciayachtclub.com 27 –29 25 25 24 –29 23 22 20 –22 (Remembrance 19 http://cornellsailing.com/sail-the-odyssey 18 Day) andColombia(IndependenceofCartagenaDay) 18 www.stcroixyc.com 13 –15 11 toTortolaBVIandAbacos,Bahamasrespectively. 9 8 –9 www.worldcruising.com/carib1500 8 www.worldcruising.com/arc 8 (SMYC), (AllSaints’Day) 7 –8 3 2 [email protected] 1 NOVEMBER PublicholidayinSt.Lucia(ThanksgivingDay) PublicholidayintheCaymanIslands(RemembranceDay) StartofCaribbean1500andARCBahamasralliesfromVirginia,USA StartofARC+rallyfromCanaryIslandstoSt.LuciaviaCapeVerdes. PublicholidayinDominica(IndependenceDay) PublicholidayinHaiti(AllSouls’Day) PublicholidayinAntigua(IndependenceDay)andsomeotherplaces PublicholidayinSt.Vincent&theGrenadines(IndependenceDay) PublicholidayinGrenada(ThanksgivingDay) FULL Foxy’sHalloweenCatfight(catamaranregatta),JostVanDyke,BVI. MOON PublicholidayinBVI(St.Ursula’sDay) PublicholidayinHaiti(AnniversaryoftheDeathDessalines) PublicholidayinBelize(PanAmericanDay) PublicholidayintheBahamas(NationalHeroes’Day),Colombia PublicholidayinCuraçao(CuraçaoDay) PublicholidayinBarbados(IndependenceDay) StartofRORCTransatlanticRace,CanaryIslandstoGrenada. PublicholidayinSuriname(RepublicDay) Publicholiday inMontserrat(LiberationDay) FULL Startof30thAnnualARCrallyfromCanaryIslandstoSt.Lucia MOON PublicholidayinBelize(GarifunaSettlementDay)andCaymanIslands StartofAtlanticOdysseyIrallyfromCanaryIslandstoMartinique. PublicholidayinHaiti(BattleofVertieresDay) PublicholidayinFrenchislands(RemembranceDay) at thetimethisissueof CaribbeanSeaJazzfestival,Aruba.http://www.carnifest.com/events PeteShealsMemorialMatchRace,Tortola.RBVIYC SOLSintMaartenOptimistChampionship.St.YachtClub BonaireInternationalSailingRegatta.www.bonaireregatta.org

CoursedeL’Alliance,St. Maarten,St.Barts,Anguilla.SMYC MangoBowlRegatta, St. Lucia.LuciaYachtClub(SLYC), RC44BVIRegatta, VirginGorda.www.yccs.it/marina JollyHarbourYachtClubAnnualRegatta.www.jhycantigua.com St.CroixInternationalRegatta.YachtClub(SCYC), so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. in ourmonthlycalendar,pleasesendthenameanddate(s)

All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledge aiba igyCaposis uroRc. Caribbean DinghyChampionships,PuertoRico. Barbados NationalDinghyChampionships.YachtClub(BYC), aiba aln soito ofrne t are. Public holidayinJamaica(NationalHeroes’Day) Caribbean SailingAssociationConference,St.Maarten. Columbus DayRegatta,St.ThomasUSVI.YachtClub(STYC). rpé efCmaa(xTikl u) udlue WorldCreoleMusicFestival,Dominica.www.wcmfdominica.com TrophéeJeffCampana(exTriskellCup),Guadeloupe. If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismeventlistedFREE of theeventandnamecontact information www.caribbeancompass.com We areon-line: [email protected] of theorganizingbodyto Compass CALENDAR went topress—butplanschange, OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45

CASIMIR HOFFMANN Firm located in JOB OPPORTUNITY 3208 CATERPILLARS 2x3208 375hp marine engines/ZF transmissions. Fully rebuilt, zero hrs. Tel: (784) 528-7273 E-mail: [email protected] GRENADA - TURBULENCE LTD has openings for experienced riggers and experienced sail- makers for a new outlet open- ing soon in Grenada. Please inquire and send C.V to [email protected]. - SHIPWRIGHT the BVI’s is seeking a full time experienced ship- wright. Requirement: a minimum of 5 years experi- ence w/ various forms of boat building including both woodworking & GRP. The applicant must be able to manage the shop in the owners’ absence, train apprentices, & manage the office if necessary. Must have own hand tools. Must speak & read English fluent- ly, computer knowledge is essential. Email CV to Erik & Sheryl Groenenberg. Fax (360) 365-2379 E-mail esym@ surfbvi.com

Trailer type, MISC. FOR SALE ANGLO CONCERTINA Traditional Shipboard Instrument. Finest Quality. Play Your Favorite Sea Songs, Shanties, Jigs, Reels and Hornpipes. Complete Instruction- Tune Book, and Carrying Case Included. Send $395.00 ppd. to: Green Mtn. Instruments P.O. Box 964 Burlington, Vermont 05402 (802) 865-3337 4200W GENERATOR 110/220V with only 6 hrs. EC$5000.Tel: (784) 528-7273. SAILS AND CANVAS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL DEALS at http://doylecaribbean. com/specials.htm US 50¢ PER WORD RENTALS CLASSIFIEDS BEQUIA – MT. PLEASANT Tahiti igloo, Rentals available. 3 bdrms, 2 baths & pool. Tel: (784) 533-4865. www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com www.caribbeanhouseforsaleonline.com BEQUIA - LA POMPE Large 2 bedroom house and/ or 1 bed studio apartment.Big verandah and patio, stunning view, cool breeze. Internet, cable TV. 2 weeks minimum, excellent long-term rates. Tel: (784) 495 1177 BEQUIA – LOWER BAY Trinity House, 3 bdrms, 2 bath. Available for long term rental. Over 2,500 sq/ft of living space overlooking Lower Bay, w/ great views of the Bequia Regatta. Built mostly of local stone, com- plete w/ whale bone bar & decorations. Complete w/ 2 balconies. More details www.bequiatrinity.com. E-mail: [email protected] Pre-paid by the 10th of the month

Great e-mail: [email protected] Include name, address and numbers in count. CLASSIFIEDS Line drawings/photos accompanying classifieds are US$10. PROPERTY FOR SALE PROPERTY FOR BEQUIA – MT. PLEASANT Interesting & unusual, 3 bdrms, 2 baths, pool. Tel: (784) 533-4865 www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com www.caribbeanhouseforsaleonline.com [email protected] BEQUIA - MT. PLEASANT views, large lots from US$5/sq.ft. www.bequialandforsale.com BEQUIA-MAC’S PIZZERIA Waterfront location, Bequia’s most popular res- taurant. Same owner-man- ager for 31 yrs. Complete land, buildings, equipment. Island Pace Realty. Tel: (784) 458-3544 Email: emmett@ islandpace.com CARRIACOU - PRIME LAND Stunning panoramic view over- looking Sandy Island & the Grenadines, northern exposure, cooling breezes, four beaches, excellent snorkeling E-mail: [email protected] Cruz, Venezuela. US$30,000.Cruz, Venezuela. 484 6121Mike Lyon Tel: 58 416

44’ Hull One Sale or LYING Good condi- Excellent condition, SEALINE 44’ 1998 Flybridge Sedan. less than 1,000 hrs, well main- tained (log available). 2 x 450 HP Cummings, loaded w/ electronics. E-mail: [email protected] TAYANA 37' 1977 SEAFOX 230CC 2005, SEAFOX 230CC 2005, Centre console, Suzuki DF225 4-stroke. Fully equipped w/ outriggers, rod holders, livewell, safety gear, elec- tronics, coolers etc. Great condition, well maintained. Tel: (473) 536-2319 E-mail: [email protected] tion needs a little TLC. Volvo excellent. Bottom job scheduled in Feb. Owner anxious to sell for health reasons. Lying Puerto La CUSTOM 42’ KOOPMANS Aluminum cruiser, built by Aluboot, 1998. Beautifully lined above & below water- line. Original owner still active on the boat. Lying Trinidad, the only proper home port in the Caribbean. E-mail: [email protected]. www.amel-mango-for-sale.com SEA RAY 440 SUNDANCER Recently valued at US$145,000, asking US$85,000. Lying in St.Vincent. Tel: (784) 493-3995 E-mail: ftruchot@ vincysurf.com 42’ SEARAY SUNDANCER 1992 New 250hp. 4 strokes, very economical, quiet & clean running. Sleeps 6 in 3 cabins, perfect for overnight charters. trade for a smaller boat Tel: (784) 528-7273 1986 AMEL MANGO owner, lying Grenada. Ready to go for US$150,000 OBO. http:// 1996 pleasure yacht in excel- lent condition. 2 x Cummings w/ low hrs, full electronics, bimini, well-equipped, per- fect for cruising & overnight charters. Sleeps 4 in 2 cabins. HARBOUR SHUTTLE TRINIDAD TT$70,000.00, ONO. Tel: (868) 634-4934 Email: [email protected] HANS CHRISTIAN 33T 1984 #68. Fully reconditioned & ready for cruising. Price reduced to US$90,000. Contact Doug Atkins for detailed infor- mation.Tel: (340) 642-6273 cell, (340) 692-2673 desk E-mail: [email protected]

E-mail: sports fisher, Immaculate This luxury This

BOATS FOR SALE FORMULA 30 2002 condition throughout. 2x 220hp V6. Lots of installed extras. US$55,000 OBO. [email protected] BLACK PEARL VEDETTE BLACK PEARL VEDETTE L-10.97m, B-2.44m, Yanmar 6LPA-STP2, 315HP, 4 – stroke. New Mercruiser Bravo 2 stern drive and aluminum prop (installed July ’13). Head / toilet, nav lights, new VHF radio, aft swim deck/ladder. Helm seats/aft sundeck cush- ions new Oct 2012. Surveyed 2013. Contact Matt Semark with offers. E-mail: matthew. [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] or [email protected] GALAPAGOS 43` STEEL KETCH Center cockpit. Recently hauled out and refurbished, ready to sail, lying Bequia, US$45,000. Robin, E-mail: [email protected] 41’ ROGER SIMPSON DESIGN Light weight, cruising cata- maran, 3 cabin, 1 head. USD75,000 ONO Tel: (868) 684-7720/634-2259 0046-765596225 or 0046-29210187 BERTRAM 28 FLYBRIDGE 1983 2x Yanmar 2007 w/ 2000 hrs. Very good condition, com- pletely renovated at Ottley Hall, St.Vincent. Well equipped w/ AP, fish finder & large ice- boxes. US$55,000. E-mail: gar- [email protected] or [email protected]: 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN POWERBOAT speedboat is available in Grenada. Gen-Set, A/C, white leather in cabin, galley, shower(s), VaccuFlush, Mercury 502 marine engines over- hauled by Mercury dealer, Bravo 1 drives. 40 MPH cruise props w/over 60 speed props. Tel: (787) 241-9624 www.aviationcms.com E-mail: [email protected] BERTRAM 38 Special [email protected] newly refitted 2015 from cabin to engines. Excellent condition, fully equipped. US$120,000 Tel: (473) 410-2933 E-mail: OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 also agreatspotforfamiliesinseveralways.There’sthestunningbeach,one, manageable, friendlyislandforfamilyexplorationorquietdaysatanchor. foster asenseofexplorationanddiscovery.Allinall,wefoundGrenadatobevery Excursions liketheseexposechildrentodifferentenvironmentsandwaysoflife seems halfthetownsetsupfoodstallsinstreetswhileothereats. — Below: Youcan’tbeatthebeachandviewsatSt.Lucia’sPitons Grenada isahiker’sparadise,withwalkssuitableforkidsofallages DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO P# DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATION PG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER ioAec Clmi MP 36 27 MP 44 Columbia MP MP SVG Curaçao Grenada MP Dominica Martinique Down IslandRealEstate C/W Dominica YachtServices Dino Agency Martinique17/MP MP 2 Curaçao Marine 47 SVG Cruising Life 40 St.Maarten Copper CoatUSA MP 44 Ship Trinidad 39 Grenada Caribbean MarineElectrical 34 St.Maarten 21 20 Caraibe Marine Grenada Captain Gourmet Trinidad Camper &Nicholsons Grenada Budget Marine C/W Boat Paint&Stuff SVG SVG Blue LagoonHotel&Marina Bay IslandYachts Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock Art Fabrik Aero TechLab Anse desPitonsisn’tjustoneofthemostscenicspotsinentireCaribbean;it’s Le PitonsandSulphurSprings,St.Lucia Another islandhighlightforuswasFishNightinthetownofGouyave,whereit otne rmpg 5 …CruisingKids‘Destination Continued frompage25 sadDem Geaa MP 37/40 Grenada MP SintMaarten25/MP MP MP UK 26 38 Island WaterWorld 39 St.Lucia 15 MP SVG Island Dreams C/W Iolaire Enterprises 36 Grenada International Inflatables Grenada Hydrovane InternationalMarine Grenada Trinidad SVG MP Hopper Landforsale 27 37 Grenadines Sails Grenada SailingWeek PuertoRico C/W Grenada Marine 35 Gonsalves Liquors Trinidad 4 Gittens Engines Free CruisingGuides USA Food Fair Fajardo Canvas C/W Electropics Trinidad Tortola Edward WilliamInsurance Echo Marine Doyle's Guides MP Doyle OffshoreSails ADVERTISERS INDEX C/W MP ture, andsuspense. Milk Run Home SchoolingSailors Schooling Families;LessonPlansAhoy:Hands-OnLearningforSailingChildrenand Educational Activities;LessonPlansToGo:Hands-OnLearningforActiveandHome ward tohearingfromfamilieswho’dlikenominatetheirown“topten”lists! are theunexpectedgemsthatyoudiscoveronyourown.Inspirit,welookfor- to changeyourimpressionofaplace.Andsometimes,themostmemorableplaces lists! Often,allittakesisforjusttheright(orwrong)persontowalkalongbeach Virgin Islandstotheeast. Islands —aquiethavensounliketheheavilytraffickedwatersofBritishandUS and Anguillascoredhighonourlist. spent daysenjoyingthefloatingtrampolinesandclimbingstructuresthere. park atAnsed’ArletonMartiniquewasjusttheticketforourson,whocouldhave for itsgorgeousbeaches,quietlanes,andhistoricplantations. to 15or20. study history. emphasize toyourchildren,it’sagreatplaceclimboncannons,playsoldier,and African slaveswhobuiltandmaintainedit”.Whicheversideoftheequationyou military engineerswhodesigneditandtotheskill,strengthenduranceof well-preserved fortressistoutedas“amonumenttotheingenuityofBritish and madeatripouttoBrimstoneHillFortress,UNESCOWorldHeritagesite.The time. Whenthewinddropped,wevisitedBasseterrewithitsquaintcolonialcenter vervet monkeysthanpeople.It’sascrubby,wildareathat’sperfectforfamilydown week sittingouthighwindsinWhiteHouseBaythesouth,wherewesawmore There’s aconvenientwatersidemarketwithfreshfruitandwaterfrontcafés,too. the tree-lined,oh-so-Frenchboulevardandunassumingcharacterofplace. black sandbeachandwerefascinatedbywalksaroundtown,whileweadultsenjoyed bly, weweredrawnbackhereagainandagain.Oursonhisbuddiesenjoyedthe as thetown’slonesurvivor. visitors canalsovisitthestonejailcellwhereaconvictweatheredcatastrophe town. Amuseumchroniclesthetown’searlydaysandfieryendofanera, the tragedyareeverywhere,fromashybeachtoblackenedruinsstilldotting wreckage. Evenghostsneedamusement,itseems! the pointwhenanearbyboatstruggledtofreeitsfouledanchorfromunderwater people andignitedthefleet.Today’scruisersmustpicktheirspotswithcare;wetook erupted inapyroclasticburst,itinstantlyleveledthetown,killedthousandsof packed withwoodenschoonersinMarch,1902.WhenneighboringMontPelée harbor, notmuchmorethanaslimindentationonMartinique’sleewardcoast,was tac-toe boardfullofXs.ThesemarkthegravesghostsSaint-Pierre.The to dobutlookforseashellsandcountthestars.Heaven,indeed! of manyotherCaribbeananchorages.There’salmostnodevelopmentandnotmuch choose aplacealmostanywherealongthelongcoastlinewithoutcrowdedfeeling for inlandexplorationasdaysoffunandsuninthesand.Here,you’llbeableto kilometer longhavenofLowBayonthewestside.Theislandisnotsomuchaplace sheer naturalbeautyoftheplace. Bay, andthough“progress”hascreptintothePitonsarea,nothingcandampen Lucia, weweren’timpressedwiththeoverdevelopmentinRodneyBayandMarigot a newadventureandeveryeveningwithanincrediblesunset.ElsewhereinSt. it’s wellworthitconsideringthedeep,rockyanchorage.Everymorningbeginswith time spentsoakinginthenearbymineralbaths.You’llhavetopayforamooring,but tion fartherinshore.Kidswillbefascinatedbytheboilingsulphurspringsandenjoy plus nearbySoufriereSulphurSpringsandDiamondBotanicalGardensforexplora- Contact [email protected] Nadine Slavinskiistheauthorof Of course,tenfamiliesaskedtocompletethisexercisewouldproducedifferent Farther northandwest,oneofourfavoritespotsisCulebraintheSpanishVirgin For lifeintheslowlane,longwalksashoreonislandsofCarriacou,Mayreau, We usuallydon’ttogoforpackagedentertainment,butadayinthesmallwater Our firstHonorableMentiongoestotheislandofMarie-Galante(offGuadeloupe) The aboveareourpersonalfavorites,butthelistcouldeasilyhavebeenstretched Honorable Mentions Another islandwithmultipleattractionsforfamiliesisSt.Kitts.Wespentahappy St. Kitts Despite itssadpast,Saint-Pierreisfullofcheerful,friendlyfaces.Almostinexplica- Today’s Saint-Pierreisaquietandinteresting,ifeerie,placetovisit.Remindersof You knowyou’reinforsomethingdifferentwhenaharborchartlooksliketic- Saint-Pierre, Martinique Antigua’s partnerislandisaparadiseofwhitesandbeachessuchastheten- Barbuda . Watchforherupcomingnovel, aieWrd V 35 40 Grenada MP SVG 34 MP 6 44 DominicanRep Azores Mt. GayRoundBarbadosRace Colombia 22 Mid AtlanticYachtServices Trinidad McIntyre Bros Marine World C/W Marina Zar-Par MP St.Lucia Marina SantaMarta Marc OneMarine LIAT C/W Grenada Lazy TurtleBar&Restaurant Johnson Hardware Island Yachts 10 oe ot Tiia MP 32 16 8 C/W 7/9/11 Trinidad Martinique MP 43 Aruba Tortola Sea HawkPaints 28 Grenada Renaissance Marina Regis Guillemot C/W Power Boats Perkins Engines Tortola Off ShoreRiskManagement Neil PrydeSails Multihull Company ; and Pacific CrossingNotes:ASailor’sGuidetotheCoconut Cruising theCaribbeanwithKids:Fun,Facts& The SilverSpider Barbados 14

www.nslavinski.com C/W =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages41to43 , astoryofsailing,adven- V ors SG 12 5 23 Grenada 26/ MP MP SVG Trinidad 29 YSATT Trinidad C/W MP Yacht SteeringCommittee Venezuela WIND Martinique PuertoRico Venezuelan MarineSupply 13 32 Turbulence Sails 18 Technick Grenada MP MP SVG Tourism SVG Suzuki Marine St.Lucia Grenada Sunbay Marina MP Grenada Sugar ReefBequiaLtd C/W MP St. LuciaTouristBoard MP SpotlessStainless C/W Spice IslandMarine Slipway Restaurant Second LifeSails OCTOBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 New rates: 1 June to 30 November 2015 30 November to 1 June rates: New at 1.5 times the standard Weekly rate. and monthly apply rates please contact a personalised us for quote. charged Multihulls are to yachtsto staying consecutively or 30 7 days for respectively. days For yachtsFor 100 above and bookings feet for LOA, of longer periods, up to 32 to up $0.85 $0.77 $0.41 up to 75 to up $1.50 $1.35 $0.69 up to 65 to up $1.45 $1.31 $0.68 up to 50up to $1.20 $1.08 $0.55 up to 40 to up $1.10 $0.99 $0.50 up to 80up to $1.65 $1.49 $0.85 up to 60 to up $1.30 $1.17 $0.61 up to 100up to $1.70 $1.53 $0.87 LOA in feet in LOA $/ft/day Daily $/ft/day Weekly Monthly $/ft/day ering ering is available to the yachts standard for daily rate, off Low Season Discount Early Arrivals Discount of 40% Bar, restaurant and swimming pool Haul-out and technical facilities nearby links air Excellent electricity and Water broadband Free security hour 24 — — Marina, Grenada: Louis Port Caribbean summer the spend to place perfect The Our low season rates represent excellent value, and we are also are value, and excellent we off Our season represent low rates an – Call 435 Danny 7431 Donelan (473) on +1 [email protected] email or – www.cnmarinas.com/plm – – – Port Louis Marina a safe, secure provides berth with all the amenities expect a full-service from you’d marina run Camper by & Nicholsons. – – – — 12°N, justLying above is the of south main Grenada hurricane belt, growing iswhich enjoying owners numbers are why yacht of a warm in the ‘Spice Island’welcome during the summer months. vessels booking and paying in or more advance. 90 days for detailsContact us for apply). (conditions that arrive during and May book of three a stay months through or more the summer. And an additional Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago