OCT-NOV $ 9.95 82 2018 INCL.GST

ARMISTICE COMMEMORATIONS WWI ENDED 11–11–1918 • ANIMALS IN CONFLICT • POIGNANT REMINDERS • LE QUESNOY MEMORIAL QUEST

More inside… West Coast 4WD adventure Whanganui Inlet walkways Chatham Island tsunami Dargaville hinterland by rail-cart Lindis Pass explored Wild West Coast cycle trail AIMS Games Scotsman’s grandstands

FEATURED PHOTO Snow fall over Lindis Pass By Allan Dick CONTENTS Issue 82 | Oct-Nov 2018

5 Letter to Readers 7 Mailbag – letters and feedback from readers 89 Books Today – lots of latest-release titles to be won 95 Subscriptions – save money by subscribing, plus back issues available Regular Columns 82 Peter Williams – looks at the AIMS Games 86 Quinn Today – Keith looks at the ‘Scotsman’s Grandstands’ from the 1950s and 1960s 91 AD Today – Allan Dick is never short of an opinion or a tale from his past Special Commemorations 11 Armistice Commemorations – 11am, November 11, 1918, saw the end of WWI – Sheryl looks back in time 14 Beasts of Burden – Sheryl takes the time to recount the contribution made by animals in WWI 18 Great War – Tom looks at the quest for a Le Quesnoy Memorial to be established 25 Gravestones and Crosses Ğ#srljqdqw#uhplqghuv#ri#ZZL#vdfulĽfhv 73 Chatham Islands – August 15, 2018, Fkdwkdp#Lvodqghuv#uhľhfw#rq#wkh#ghdgo|#wvxqdpl# of 1868 and we look at what makes this small group of islands so special Heartland Features 28 Dargaville – Peta hops aboard a new rail-cart journey through the hinterland of the northern Wairoa River 36 Lindis Pass – Allan Dick explores this fascinating and iconic 110km highway and the history of the McLean Brothers 53 4WD Adventure Ğ#Vkhu|o#Edlqeulgjh/#mrlqv#d#frqyr|#ri#48#yhklfohv#iru#Ľyh#gd|v#dv# they explore previously unseen parts of the South Island’s West Coast

Walk and Cycle Today 45 West Coast Wilderness Trail – Gary tackles this 100+km wild frontier with its whimsical weather, bewhiskered men and wild foods festival 65 Whanganui Inlet – 2744ha of rich biodiversity, an area rich in wildlife that rļhuv#pxowlsoh#zdonv#wr#h{soruh#lqfoxglqj#Nqxfnoh#Kloo

11 28 36

45 53 65

Cover photo: Front Cover – Approaching Greymouth Attribution - Photographer Jason Blair. Back Cover – Matt Gauldie war horse statue at Hamilton Memorial Park - Photographer Linda Paul

Editor Robyn Dallimore E: [email protected] 5WDGFKV RTQQƒPIVGCOThiers Halliwell, Allan Walton ISSN 1176-3051 ISSN Advertising Enquiries Bruce Mountain E: [email protected] M: 021 657 090 Bruce Mountain uses Lumix photographic equipment is published by RnR Publishing Ltd 1HƒEG5WDUETKRVKQPULaura Atkinson E: [email protected] Contact us ph: + 64 6 306 6030 Design + Production Cameron Leggett Contributors: Sheryl Bainbridge, Robyn Dallimore, Tom Clarke, Allan Dick, Gary Patterson, Keith Quinn, PO Box 220, 28 Oxford Street, Peta Stavelli, Peter Williams, Matt Winter Martinborough, 5711, New Zealand Image + Printing PMP Maxum Auckland

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Disclaimer RnR Publishing Ltd uses due care and diligence in the preparation of this magazine, but is not responsible or liable for any mistakes, misprints, omissions or typographical errors. RnR Publishing Ltd prints advertisements provided to the publisher, but gives no warranty and makes PQTGRTGUGPVCVKQPVQVJGVTWVJCEEWTCE[QTUWHƒEKGPE[QHCP[FGUETKRVKQPRJQVQITCRJQTUVCVGOGPV4P42WDNKUJKPI.VFCEEGRVUPQNKCDKNKV[HQTCP[NQUUVJCVOC[DGUWHHGTGFD[CP[RGTUQPYJQTGNKGUGKVJGTYJQNN[QTKPRCTVWRQPCP[FGUETKRVKQPRJQVQITCRJQTUVCVGOGPVEQPVCKPGFJGTGKP Advertisers are advised that all advertising must conform to the ASA Codes of New Zealand Advertising; full details and codes book available from asa.co.nz. RnR Publishing Ltd reserves the right to refuse any advertisement for any reason. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or editor. All material gathered in creating NZTODAY magazine is copyright 2018 RnR Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved in all media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of the publisher.

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THE SNARES

AUCKLAND ISLANDS

CAMPBELL ISLAND MACQUARIE ISLAND EDITOR’S LETTER Robyn Dallimore Invercargill to Whangarei

oday is another sunny day in Kaikoura, we got a phone call from Bruce’s paradise – well I’m in Auckland, son Ben, to say his partner Maura had gone so by the end of today it will have into labour eight weeks early and that they rained two or three times as well were heading to Invercargill hospital – they as beamed sunshine down on us, live in Queenstown. Holy moly – we’d better Tbut that seems to be standard up here! get down there, so we did a mammoth 12-hour In our village of Martinborough we’ve had drive down to Invercargill to be with them, and an amazing winter. I’ve actually watered our celebrate the safe delivery of Finn, who at 5lbs garden a few times to keep the winter veggies followed by snow and storms. We had a couple was actually a good size for a premature baby. going, and last weekend planted out the irst of encounters with the local police as Bruce lost We were so impressed with the hospital staf summer lettuce and tomato plants. I’ve even his wallet ater dinner one night – it was handed and the wonderful Ronald McDonald house put some potatoes into bags to try them this in with cards and money intact. He then let in the hospital. Such a Godsend for these year – actually digging and preparing a piece our new fancy camera on a park bench ater parents – a very worthy charity to support all of the garden to put them in would be way too a two-hour photo session at South Bay. hat around the country. much work for me. I admit to not being that was stressful until we got a phone call the next We drove back to Picton a week later and able or dedicated, and my Rock (Bruce) has evening from a local copper whose son had returned home for a few days, before packing no gardening interest at all, unless it involves found the camera. We had dropped of copies the motorhome and going to Hamilton for the a chainsaw or similar cutting tool. Our soil is of our RV Travel Lifestyle, NZTODAY and NZ NZMCA Motorhome show for a weekend, stony and great for grapes, but needs a lot of Classic Driver magazines at the Police Station then up to Whangarei for a darling girl’s work to make it good for growing our own food. when we picked up the wallet, and this guy fifth birthday. Now we’re staying with my Check out the Books Today on page 90 – was enjoying his Father’s Day reading the RV granddaughter for a week in Auckland. we’re celebrating National Gardening Week magazine when his son returned home with Maybe we’ll be home in October, maybe over October 15–22 with Yates, and have a git the camera he’d found. Ater looking through not, but this magazine will go to print tonight basket to give away as well as Andrew Steens’ the photos and seeing a couple of hundred regardless of where we are – technology is such a Grow it Yourself Vegetables book, perfect for motorhome and caravan pics with great views game-changer for achieving a life–work balance. this time of year. and wondering who on earth would bother Enjoy this issue, packed full of great reading. he last two months have been really busy taking all those photos, he connected the dots We especially welcome our 120 new subscribers travel-wise; we started of house and dog sitting and found our mobile number in the front of who joined our NZTODAY family at the in Waiwera for a week, went home for a week, the mag, rang up and enquired if we had lost motorhome show, and we welcome your then packed up the motorhome and headed our camera? How lucky we were! feedback or stories in Letters to the Editor. down south to house and dog sit for friends on Check out the video on Facebook about the Take care, and be kind to each other. the accommodation property known as ‘Surf recycling programme this area runs, it’s so Watch’, 16km north of Kaikoura. comprehensive it puts the rest of the country It was quite a week in so many ways, starting to shame. with stunning weather and amazing sunrises, The day our friends were due back in Editor

FOR DAILY UPDATES AND INTERESTING TALES FROM AROUND NEW ZEALAND VISIT OUR FACEBOOK facebook.com/nztoday PAGE AND WEBSITE. facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 5 LETTERS Please send your feedback, letters and suggestions to [email protected] and win a magazine subscription mail Email Facebook

i Robyn Your magazine is always a great Hread. A couple of articles I’d like to comment on in this latest issue (No. 80). he irst is Allan Dick’s one about ‘Fairlie and More’. He said, “I wonder how many people outside South Canterbury have heard of Albury?” I have and it’s through the Fairlie Flier song by Keltic Mix that commemorated the passing of the Fairlie Branch Railway Line. It’s on You Tube and is a bit of a documentary- cum-geography lesson and now a history lesson as well. One verse says:

Down the line at Albury, where shunting’s done no more, And at Mrs Gibson’s tavern there’s a welcome at the door, hey tell of far of summers that will never come again, When the old goods shed at Albury was illed with golden grain. The Millennium Track heading off into the middle distance In other verses, the kids of the area get mentioned catching the train to school, and but I thought it looked interesting. On getting embankment in places and the road in others. also the train guard Martin Fahey who used to the start of it near the Beaumont Bridge, we A sign marking the spot of Terry Town noted to shop in Timaru for people back up the line, found a notice that called it the Millennium that little was known about the town, and and one verse inishes with ‘while over at the Track, and no guessing, it was upgraded to a Papers Past and David McGill’s Ghost Towns local, Ted pours another beer’ in Cave. certain degree in 2000. he Information Board of New Zealand later shed no further light. he other article is by Gary Patterson on the said it was lat and what we could see looked There’s a privately owned power station Clutha Gold Trail. We were down in Central ok, considering we were driving a borrowed along the track, which apparently feeds more Otago a few weeks ago on our way to Clyde Honda Fit. here was a sign warning that a than 1000 households. We didn’t ind out till and we followed part of the trail by car. Always narrow bridge lay ahead that could only take later that there used to be a railway station at looking for a back road to drive, I noticed on vehicles with a maximum width of 1.8m. Craig Flat – must have been a lonely stop-of. the NZ Topo Map website a road going on So one day short of the shortest day of the he 1.8m bridge in question was curved across the east side of the Clutha from Beaumont to year, we ventured forth. Apart from the track Millers Flat. It was just parallel lines with no being a bit slushy and pot-holey, driving was orange inill to signify that it was even gravel pretty easy. he Gold Trail followed the rail GIFT SUBSCRIPTION

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Along the track with the Gold Trail following the old railway formation

HAVE YOU GOT A STORY If you have – we would love to hear from you. We enjoy receiving stories and photographs from enthusiastic readers of NZTODAY or aspiring writers and always welcome their submissions. YOU’D LIKE TO SHARE Send me an email with your story and Photographs to E: [email protected] or post to WITH NZTODAY’S READERS? NZT Editor, PO Box 220, Martinborough 5711

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Part of William Rigney’s hand carved tombstone in front of the 1903 replacement

30 years ago as it was unsafe. John Crawford points out in his book that its legendary size has grown over time to 137m by 47m and is regularly misquoted at this size. With original photos overlaid with scale measurements, he The way we’d come. View from near the Lonely Graves points out its actual size was about 100m x 25m. One reason for visiting Clyde, was to catch the Talla Burn on the old railway piles. Further as a memorial to numerous similar bridges up with my wife’s great uncle and aunt, Samuel on, the road passed through a cutting covered that spanned the river in the early days. he and Martha Chapman in the Clyde Cemetery. in places in ankle-deep mud that the Honda 10-minute walk to inspect it is well worth it. hey were home when we visited but they didn’t only just made it through. Back on tarseal, my wife Maree WhatsApped invite us in for a drink … he cemetery is At the end of the Track were the Lonely our kids with a photo of our muddied car with surrounded on four sides by an impressive schist Graves with “Somebody’s Darling Lies Buried “his is what happens when you lend your stone wall built by John Holloway whose work Here 1865” inscribed on one of the tombstones. car to Dad!” is remembered by a brass plaque imbedded Gary, in his article, notes that the legend of We stopped at Fagan’s Café in Millers Flat in the footpath on the main street of Clyde. William Rigney inding the body and burying and had a well-deserved cuppa and eats. We it has been, shall we say, ‘laid to rest.’ William saw cheese rolls there but didn’t register that only put up a manuka fence round the grave they’re a southern delicacy until later, when and made a wooden tombstone – some of we tried one elsewhere. he café stands next which has been encased in front of its marble to the recently restored baker’s shop, a 25-year replacement. Something a little imponderable project of the locals to keep their history alive. is why William missed out the apostrophe We diverted of the road that continued along and ‘s’ at the end of Somebody’s in his carving the east bank of the Clutha to Roxburgh, onto on the original. John Crawford in his book Loop Road, to look at the stone ruins of the on the history of the Teviot area, Tales from Teviot woolshed. Not all the woolshed remains. The ruins of part of the Teviot Woolshed the Woolshed, points out that Rigney was “no Part of it, made of sandstone, was demolished semi-literate miner; he was a well-educated manager of a mining business.” Crawford doesn’t come up with an explanation but also points out that on the replacement stone the apostrophe and ‘s’ are in a slightly diferent font to the rest of the writing. Nearby at Horseshoe Bend, is a historic swing bridge across the Clutha. Built in 1913, the footbridge was restored in 2003 and stands

The footbridge at Horseshoe Bend. The track at the other end, a 30 minute walk, comes out on SH8, some distance from Raes Junction Umbrella pines near the entrance to Clyde Cemetery facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 7 LETTERS Please send your feedback, letters and suggestions to [email protected] and win a magazine subscription mail Email Facebook

#NNCDQCTFCPFTGCF[HQTVJGETQUUKPI

at other times strong winds can cause crossing cancellations. Terry, the guy in charge (we later thought a good name for him would be ‘Terry Man the Ferryman’), is paid by the Clutha District Council and operates the service seven days a week between the hours of 8–10am and 3–5pm in winter (4–6pm in 6JGWPRTQƒVCDNG/QN[PGWZ&TGFIGVJGUGEQPFNCTIGUVDWKNVYCUNCWPEJGFKP summer). he ferry is on Facebook and there is 1EVQDGTCPFƒPCNN[FKUOCPVNGFKP actually a payment – Terry asks if he can take your photo to put on Facebook. hree impressive Umbrella pines, a source of in narrow places of the gorge.” Within 24 hours Dave Grantham pine nuts, surround the entrance to the well- of the achievement, the river looded but the Waikanae kept cemetery. dredge lived on to tell the tale. Talking to John Hanning, the curator of Before we drove through the Millennium the Clyde Museum, he could tell us the house Track, we did a side trip to a bit of NZ history where great uncle Sam lived – and it’s still there that is all but forgotten – the Tuapeka Mouth today. Sam was dredge master for a time on the ferry or punt. he last of the ferries of that type Molyneux Dredge ater its construction in the in the Southern Hemisphere, it’s a must-do. mid-1930s. Prior to that, with the help of 11 It crosses the Clutha near the settlement of men, he’d taken the electric Goldields Dredge Tuapeka Mouth and is free! he ferry takes from Tucker Beach through the Shotover Gorge cars and passengers, and the pontoons are to Big Beach, a distance of three and a half miles, positioned so that the current glides it across over a period of 10 weeks during the winter the river, guided by a steel cable on each side. of 1934. his was despite dire predictions as In hindsight, we chose a good foggy morning reported in the NZ Herald “that loods would to do it. Frost on the deck a few days prior had send the dredge to destruction on jutting rocks made it unsafe to operate in the morning, and

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8 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz LETTERS Please send your feedback, letters and suggestions to [email protected] and win a magazine subscription mail Email Facebook

ello Robyn, I have just read Allan Dick’s article in the recent NZTODAY about the area of Macraes, HMoonlight, Middlemarch, etc. and thoroughly related to it. Allan makes reference on page 36 about the suspension bridge at Sutton over the Taieri which was washed away during a recent lood. Several years ago I was commissioned to paint a picture of the bridge for a person who was celebrating a special birthday. I believe that as a youth he used to jump from the bridge into the river. I am glad now that I painted the bridge which will never be replaced in its original form. I have attached an image of my painting for your interest and maybe you could pass it on to Allan if you wish. As always NZTODAY is our No.1 read. Keep up the good work. Kind Regards Murray Ayson ED: hanks for sharing your fantastic painting image; appreciate your loving the magazine as well Murray.

81 AWANUI and KAIWAKA I Robyn Regards Just got issue 81, and would like to ello Robyn Graeme Denton Hcorrect an error in the John Bishop As usual as soon as I see my next ED: hank you to all those who took the time story on his Northland Tour. Hcopy of your excellent NZTODAY to email me re this error. I went back to each of I feel that John must have failed his geography magazine in my mail box, I just have to read you personally, but I agree a mistake like that test at school. it from cover to cover! should have been picked up during the four he picture on page 51 of Mr 4 Square is I was most interested in reading John Bishop’s diferent proofs and sub-edits that went on. See certainly not taken in Riwaka as that village article from Russell to Riwaka tour. I was what happens when our chief sub-editor hiers is in the South Island near Motueka. wondering where in the North ‘Riwaka’ was goes on holiday. hiers is a legend for checking Jaques store is actually in the town of as I have lived in Northland for most of my all these speciics – I am quite dependent on his KAIWAKA midway between Auckland and life and believed that to be a town or area in expertise. My apologies to all of our readers, but Whangarei, and has been owned and run by the Nelson region. I appreciate so much your attention to detail the Jaques family for decades. As I got to the last two paragraphs of his and that you communicate back to us. Sounds Lets hope that John had a GPS to get him article, I realised that he was referring to the pathetic but I am so glad you all care as much home safely without a detour to the South Island. local town of Kaiwaka as the name ‘Jaques’ as we do. If any of you readers have not visited the appears on the Four Square store in his photo. John Bishop: Robyn, mea culpa. I hate errors, Kauri Museum at Matakohe, make an efort Last year was the 50th anniversary of Jaques and particularly careless ones like that, my to do so as I reckon it’s the best museum in the being a Four Square, November 13–26. hey apologies to all. country – and I have visited most museums had a big day of celebration on Saturday, in NZ. November 25 – hence the lad dressed in the Getting back to the village of Riwaka: if you costume. I’m pretty sure it was Quintin! I had i Robyn like eating pies you will ind the best pies ever a group of students holding a sausage sizzle I so enjoyed Peter’s article on his there at ‘Ginger Dynamite’ I think it’s called. and ofering face painting that day. Htime at the Coast, and loved his Better than the so-called famous Fairlie pies. Kaiwaka is a lovely town known as the ‘town reminiscing of his life as a broadcaster. Alan Dick, I know you are a pie man, best you of lights’. At night time various businesses, the Also Keith Quinn, and his eloquent, moving do a trip from Oamaru up there, I’m sure you church, the school, etc. are lit up with fairy story as a young ball boy and the Irish player can ind a story to write about that area. lights. It is also the Gateway to the North and whose son would become an Irish legend of Rowan McLean is a very vibrant community. the game Woody. Keep up producing the great magazines! I love these guys; their integrity, self-efacing hank you, manner, experience and wealth of knowledge. i Robyn Kind Regards, Always a highlight for me reading NZTODAY Just making you aware of a few Robyn Bruce when these two contribute. Herrors in John Bishop’s otherwise Maungaturoto Bev Roach interesting article. Page 47 – (Sir) Hekenukumai ED: hanks Bev, writers appreciate readers is Hec Busby’s full name, not Hector feed back. Peter and Keith are both fantastic Page 50 – it’s Awanui, not Awapuni obyn contributors to the magazine, and we are proud Page 50/51 and cover – Kaiwaka, not Riwaka I am a long time reader and collector to have them share their stories with us, as with I guess my own mistakes have made me Rof NZTODAY and continue to look all our contributors. more conscious of names. forward to each issue. Kind regards, I ind it irritating when there are print errors, Sheryl Bainbridge particularly with place names, page 50 issue facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 9 NEED ECONOMY, WANT PERFORMANCE?

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THE ELEVENTH HOUR

In 1918 the guns fell silent at 11am on the 11th day of the 11th month, after four long years of bitter hostilities during World War One.

y the time an armistice between the Allied Forces and but according to the New Zealand Division oicial history, those Germany was signed on November 11, 1918, more than ighting in France received the news of the armistice “generally in a 18,000 New Zealanders had died. During the four matter-of-fact way, totally devoid of any demonstration of emotion.” years leading up to that day, WWI – the ‘Great War’, It’s not unreasonable to expect that those who lost loved ones didn’t the ‘war to end all wars’ – claimed lives and injured ind much to celebrate at the time either. Bmany thousands, physically, psychologically and in some cases, For years aterwards, returned servicemen did not want to talk both. he devastating efects on their families lasted for generations. about their experiences, and no one wanted to ask them. While In a country whose burden was ampliied by an inluenza epidemic, the end of the war was celebrated each year, many servicemen, not those at home celebrated the end of the war. here was festivity, there wanting to be reminded of a horriic time in their lives and of the were speeches, songs, bonires, parades and church bells ringing, loss of comrades, refused to attend.

Memorials large and small, many of them featuring poppies. he war memorial building is in Kaeo and the obelisk is at Mangonui (above)

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More than 500 memorials sprang up throughout the country. Obelisks, memorial statues, halls, church noticeboards and groves of trees were funded by communities to remember those who lost their lives. In the far north, Kaitaia township didn’t even wait for the end of the war. A memorial was erected on March 24, 1916 and was rededicated exactly 100 years later. According to NZ History Online, a Māori, Leopold Busby of Pukepoto (between Kaitaia and Ahipara), was the moving spirit behind the memorial, and the words beneath the typical cemetery angel are in both Māori and English. New Zealand’s last major action in WW1 took place in the French town of Le Quesnoy when November 4, 1918 saw Kiwi ingenuity liberate the town (that had been occupied by the German army since 1914) without the loss of a single civilian life. he battalion used ladders to scale the mediaeval town’s ramparts and send the German army packing. Since then that community has had a special ainity with New Zealand, with a twin town relationship being set up with the Waikato town of Cambridge, where a stained-glass window depicting the battle features in St Andrew’s Church. In gone before them, and show this by attending ANZAC Day services, Le Quesnoy there’s also an intriguing four-metre ediice known as oten wearing their forebear’s medals. he greatest change has been the Giant Māori that weighs 67kg and is taken from its position in an attitudinal change towards compassion and tolerance. We don’t the town hall and paraded through the streets each November to treat war wounded as ‘a burden to the country’, and the thought of commemorate the battle. a terriied young man being shot for desertion is abhorrent to us. his year the National Army museum at Waiouru, as well as We generally accept that people have difering points of view, and holding a service on Armistice Day itself, will mount an exhibition today we wouldn’t countenance a young man being tied to a pole of the battle of Le Quesnoy. In the town itself, the centenary of the and let there for choosing to become a conscientious objector. Some battle will take place in Avenue des Néo Zélandais on November 4. would suggest that the ‘Great War’ was an exercise in futility, and In 2014, in one of its most community-focussed initiatives, the looking back, it seems that the world didn’t learn much – adding to government began setting aside funding to help communities organise the tragedy of that war was the fact that some 20 years later, children memorial events to commemorate the First World War. One of the of those soldiers would go on to be killed in yet another global better outcomes of this raised awareness is that young people now conlict. But rightly or wrongly, nations and individuals did what have a greater understanding of the sacriices made by those who have they thought was the right thing at the time, and it’s only hindsight and a more empathetic, benevolent humanity that gives us a more balanced perspective on a terrible, tragic period of devastated lives. he government’s contestable fund provided the impetus for the construction of new memorials, refurbishment of others and widely difering commemorative events and ceremonies, but all with the same theme – remembering those who served our country. Most importantly, the publicity engendered was signiicant in reminding both young and old that New Zealand played an important part at a dreadful time in the world’s history, and tributes, large or small, are ongoing. As recently as July this year, for example, an entrant in Waipu’s Art ‘n’ Tartan wearable-arts event designed a costume of poppies and white crosses to acknowledge those who fell in battle.

he rededicated Kaitaia War Memorial

12 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz ‘Lest we Forget’ by Carolyn Dymock and Gaye Campbell, Art ‘n’ Tartan Wearable Art awards 2018 (photo Peter Grant) facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 13 COMMEMORATING THE ARMISTICE Story Sheryl Bainbridge Photos as credited

Donkeys were used to carry the wounded (photo National Army Museum)

14 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz Expeditionary Force in Egypt in 1915 (Camel Corps). Photo supplied by the Cambridge Museum ref 681 - donor Edith Willis THEY HAD NO SAY BUT ALSO SERVED

One hundred years after the Armistice was signed is a time to recount the contribution made by animals in the First World War

t was the donkey that did it. When I saw the image (provided the numbers; that’s a major by the National Army Museum) of that patient beast in its sacriice from the steeds Red Cross headdress, exemplifying the way that a myriad that were ridden into animals joined military personnel in hell on earth for up battle or used to cart and to four long years, I wanted to pay a small tribute to them. carry. Like their riders, IKnowing what its efect would be, I didn’t even consider going to they were brave. he Turks A mule train carrying artillery see the ilm War Horse a few years ago. hose I spoke to aterwards called the ANZACs “devils shells at Passchendaele (photo agreed it was a very emotional movie, but nevertheless it did much to on horses” as they never NZ History online) highlight the contribution that horses made during World War One. knew where the mounted Of the 10,000 horses sent overseas from New Zealand during that ANZACs would strike next. The long-suffering animals were war, only four – Beauty, Bess, Dolly and Nigger – came home. Do expected to cover between 40 and 90 miles (60–150km) a day, with artillery horses also pulling a heavy load of armour. While many of those horses paid the ultimate price in conditions that would be abhorrent to us today, including insuicient food and water, mud, rain, snow and the noise of explosions, a shortage of transport and quarantine restrictions made it impractical for survivors to return to New Zealand. Most of them were sold locally or destroyed. Several of the soldiers who disliked the way the local people treated animals chose to destroy their horses rather than submit them to a life of sustained misery ater all they’d already been through. One soldier wrote of having to shoot his old mate. It broke his heart. We’ve come to recognise the vital part that animals played during those dreadful times, and now there are several memorials that commemorate their valour. here’s an inscription on an Egyptian Matt Gauldie war-horse statue at Hamilton tomb that reads, “Your deeds are your monuments”. Very true of Memorial Park (photo Linda Paul) these beasts, but it’s also good to see more tangible recognition.

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Bess, one of the equine survivors that lived until 1924, has her own memorial on private property in Rangitikei, constructed by her owner Colonel Charles Guy Powles and his family following Bess’ death. Colonel Powles considered Bess to be part of his life, and she was buried where she fell. A gathering takes place there each Anzac Day to remember the war horses. his year saw members of the nearby Bulls Museum knitting purple poppies in recognition of the animals, and Bess has her own display at the museum. At the Hamilton Memorial Park, a war-horse statue created by artist Matt Gauldie was oicially unveiled on Armistice Day in 2017 at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month. his memorial has also given horses national recognition for the terrible sufering they endured. Although horses made up the largest Sculptor Susan Bahary and Nigel Allsopp number of animals serving, they were not the only (far right) (photo National Army Museum) contributors. Donkeys and mules were expected to carry impossibly heavy loads and were used as ambulances. 1916. Dogs were especially useful for helping stretcher-bearers ind John Simpson Kilpatrick, who enlisted under the name of John wounded soldiers in no man’s land at night. Caesar wore a harness Simpson, was a stretcher-bearer who, together with a series of that was equipped with medical supplies such as bandages, water donkeys, rescued wounded soldiers at Gallipoli. When Simpson and writing materials. If a soldier was not seriously injured, he was shot, his courageous little beast carried on to the cove with an could use the bandages to patch himself up and the dog would guide injured man on its back. Although Simpson and his donkey are him back to the trenches, or if unable to move but conscious, he among the most famous, Dick Henderson and others also retrieved could write of any hazards that might hamper the rescuers, such as the wounded, saving many lives. his bravery has become the stuf enemies nearby or unexploded shells. Caesar was found alongside of legends and their deeds have been immortalised in paintings and a dead soldier whose hand was resting on the dog’s head. His collar on postage stamps. is now part of the Auckland War Memorial Museum’s collection. Before being killed in action, Caesar, a trained Red Cross bulldog, Then there were the camels. The Imperial Camel Corps was helped rescue wounded troops during the Battle of the Somme in formed in 1916, and the ungainly beasts that could go for days

Some of the humans and animals who took part in the unveiling of the memorial sculpture at the Army Museum (photo National Army Museum)

16 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz without water and didn’t mind the desert conditions, were used The New Zealand War Animal to patrol pipelines and railway lines, as well as in battle. While the troops initially disliked these oddly shaped, uncomfortable Memorial Day intends to use and sometimes uncooperative beasts, as one cameleer said, they’d the 24th of February as annual become attached to them by the time they had to give them up. here are tales of messenger pigeons performing vital information- Purple Poppy Day, so that the carrying service. he Tunnellers Corp used canaries and mice to warn of gas underground. he New Zealand Tunnelling Company, approximately 8,000,000 animals hard men – mostly ex-miners and engineers with a reputation for who had no say in their destiny, resisting military discipline – showed their sot side by adopting a cat, Snowy, as a mascot. can have a commemorative day With efect from 2018, the National Army Museum in Waiouru in conjunction with New Zealand War Animal Memorial Day intends to use the 24th of February as annual Purple Poppy Day, so that the approximately 8,000,000 animals who had no say in the let of its entrance is a statue of St Francis, Patron Saint of all their destiny, can have a commemorative day. It’s been a long time animals, who must have had his work cut out in those grim times coming, but a horse’s head sculpture by internationally renowned 100 years ago. Like their masters, the animals did what they had American artist Susan Bahary was gited to the museum by Nigel to do. hey had no choice. Hopefully the last hundred years have Allsopp and the members of the Australian War Animal Memorial taught us some lessons. Organisation (AWAMO) and installed earlier this year. Nigel Allsop, author and world authority on canines, and the NZ Veterinary Imperial Camel Corps badge Association have also donated a plaque to Massey University in (photo NZ History online) Palmerston North. he plaque is dedicated to the oicers and Below: Rescue dog Caesar’s collar soldiers of the NZ Veterinary Corps who gave comfort and care (name misspelt on collar) is in to the animals of war and was unveiled on May 24, 2018. AWAMO the Auckland War Memorial sponsors a local animal cause in the areas where it establishes a (photo NZ History online) memorial. In the Waiouru area, a donation has been made to the Kaimanawa Heritage Horse Society, a itting support for the wild horses running within the Army training area nearby. Monuments don’t need to be elaborate; it’s the act of remembrance that’s important. A plaque on a memorial at Birch Hill Station, Canterbury simply reads “In memory of the horses of the 8th Regiment NZMR that died in the Great War 1914–1918”, and a plain but efective concrete memorial carrying the words “War Horse Memorial 1914–1918” has been erected in Canberra, Australia, where people lay apples instead of wreaths in a very touching tribute. In Poziers, France, the WW1 War Animal Memorial remembers and recognises all animals regardless of side they served on. To

facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 17 COMMEMORATING THE ARMISTICE Story Tom Clarke Photos New Zealand Memorial Museum Trust – Le Quesnoy THE GREAT WAR EUROPEAN MEMORIAL PLANNED FOR OUR FALLEN

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century ago – in 1918 – families and individuals people on the steps of Parliament by the Governor, Lord Liverpool. throughout New Zealand must have been reeling in But because we were part of the British Empire, in efect we went to bitter anguish at the atrocious and mindless slaughter war with Germany on August 4, the day King George V made the that had taken place on the battleields of Europe – declaration of war in London, and that’s the date that New Zealand thousands of miles away from New Zealand’s green oicially recognises as the start of he Great War. Aand peaceful shores. he unprecedented and previously unimaginable New Zealand’s population at that time was just under 1.1 million carnage had taken the lives of thousands of their sons, husbands, people, and about 243,000 of those were men of military age. In total, brothers, iancés and friends, and maimed and ruined the lives of more than 124,000 men enlisted for war service, and around 100,000 many thousands of other young New Zealand men. of them served overseas – about 18,200 of them died during the war, he war began on August 4, 1914 ater a complicated series of events, while another 41,000 were wounded. About 16 New Zealand nurses all relating to international alliances from previous European wars, who went to Europe to tend the sick and wounded, also lost their lives. triggered by the assassination of the heir to the Austro-Hungarian More than 16,500 of the young men who served overseas never throne, Archduke Franz Ferdinand, in Sarajevo on June 28, 1914. returned – more than 3700 of them were never recovered, and simply his resulted in Austria-Hungary declaring war on Serbia on July 28, vanished. heir names are recorded on New Zealand Monuments 1914 and Serbia calling on Russia for its support under their treaty. to the Missing at the various battlegrounds. Europe’s large empires then mobilised their forces in accordance with their various treaties. Germany declared war on Russia on August NATIONHOOD 1, 1914 and on France two days later, and when Germany invaded In recent years, the First World War has generally been regarded Belgium, Britain declared war on Germany on August 4, 1914. as a turning point in the creation of New Zealand as a nation. Herb News of Great Britain’s declaration of war was received in New Farrant – a military historian and First World War buf, and also Zealand on August 5 and was announced to a crowd of some 15,000 general secretary of the New Zealand Memorial Museum Trust –

18 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz believes that’s because the 104,000 men who went to he Great War the project and investigating potential sites. In 2011, the New was the largest contingent we’d ever sent abroad for a single purpose, Zealand Memorial Museum Trust was formed with the objective who were recognised on the world stage as New Zealanders. of establishing a war memorial museum in Le Quesnoy with the “he international reputation that we enjoy today started with support of the Mayor and Town Council, and in 2017 the Trust signed those soldiers on the battleields of he Great War,” he says. an agreement to purchase the former Gendarmerie headquarters “By 1918, people in Europe knew who we were. By 1918, of the 60 within the ramparts of the town and develop the property as a self- infantry divisions on the Western Front, the New Zealand Infantry supporting memorial museum. Division, ighting as a Colonial Division of the British Expeditionary Force, was amongst the most powerful – largely because of the FRENCH SUPPORT reinforcement system that was operated out of New Zealand – and Fundraising has been underway on a low-key basis for some years arguably it was one of the inest. and is expected to continue for up to three years. So far more than $3 “From March 1916 until November 1918, the New Zealanders were million has been raised or pledged for the purchase and development commanded by a Hawkes Bay farmer, Major General Sir Andrew of the property, which the French government ofered to the Trust Russell, whose stated objective was to turn the New Zealanders into at a cost of €600,000 (just over $NZ1 million), which is half of its ‘the inest ighting division in the British Army’ and by 1918 that current market value. he total budget for the project is $15 million. objective had been achieved.” In January this year, the Trust’s purchase of the site was concluded During some 32 months from April 1916, the New Zealand Division based on the generous ofer from the French government, a crucial was to gain battle experience and participate in all the major battles turning point for the whole project which enabled it to go ahead. fought by the British Army on the Western Front. Of the 74,000 men he buildings on the site comprise the Gendarmerie, described who passed through its ranks, 48,000 were to become casualties and as a gentleman’s residence originally built in the late 19th century some 12,500 lie buried forever in the foreign ields of France and as the Mayor’s residence, and nine residential buildings erected in Belgium. On the ‘Advance to Victory’ from August to November 1952 comprising one detached and two sets of four semi-detached 1918 – the last 100 days of the war – the New Zealand Division was residences. he buildings are surrounded by grasslands, paved and to lead the British 3rd Army over 77 days, for 49 of the 56 miles to Le pebbled roading and mature trees. Quesnoy. During 55 days spent in combat, the Division’s formidable he proposal is to establish the museum in the existing Gendarmerie ighting ability incurred some 10,400 casualties with more than and in a new annex which – at the request of the Le Quesnoy Town 2700 dead, and was awarded ive Victoria Crosses, a testimony to Council – will be in a completely diferent style and will also include the price of nationhood that still lingers today. a bookshop and café. he museum’s collection content will focus on New Zealand’s military past in Europe and our contribution to MEMORIAL PLAN achieving victory in two world wars in Europe, and will include Mr Farrant says in World War One and World War Two, 85,000 resources to help Kiwis researching the location of the graves of their New Zealanders fought in the European heatre of War where they soldier forebears. It will also focus on the history of Le Quesnoy as served with merit and distinction. a fortress town, and the harsh struggles of its townsfolk during the Half of all dead from those two world wars lie buried in the four-year-long occupation by the German Army from August 1914 foreign ields of Europe, and he is irmly of the view that it’s time until its liberation by the New Zealanders. we recognised and honoured their achievements and sacriices. Le Quesnoy has a shortage of public accommodation, so the eight His vision for achieving this is the creation of a New Zealand War residential homes on the site will be upgraded and refurbished to Memorial Museum which is proposed to be established in the French modern standards as self-catering tourist (and possibly student) township of Le Quesnoy, which has a close and well-remembered and commemorated connection with New Zealand from the closing days of the First World War (page 22). He has been a regular visitor to France and Belgium since 1995, and until recently voluntarily acted as a tour guide for Kiwis wishing to visit the battleields of both countries to follow in the footsteps of their fathers, grandfathers and other relations, which he says was usually a very emotional and sobering experience for them and for him. “As I became more knowledgeable about the service and sacriices of New Zealand soldiers in the European heatre of War, I felt there was a very real need to permanently record the exploits and deeds of the two generations of our ‘ittest and inest’ who served overseas,” he says. “As a frequent visitor to the Vauban fortress town of Le Quesnoy and being familiar with the nature of the liberation of the town in An artist’s concept of how the existing Gendarmerie November 1918 by the New Zealand Division, and the subsequent building and the proposed new museum annex will look. close friendship between the residents of the town and New Zealand, he annex is designed in a completely diferent style to the I felt that it was an appropriate location for a small museum as a existing Gendarmerie and will be connected to it via a glass memorial dedicated to the New Zealand servicemen and women walkway. he annex will double the existing loor area of of the two world wars.” the Gendarmerie, and provide space for reception, bookshop In 2000 he began talking to Le Quesnoy civic authorities about and café facilities, and a local tourist information centre

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Of the 74,000 men who passed through its ranks, 48,000 were to become casualties and some 12,500 lie buried forever in the iruhljq#Ľhogv#ri#Iudqfh#dqg# Belgium

accommodation, while the ninth – the standalone dwelling – will be upgraded to provide accommodation for two seconded museum staf from New Zealand. Mindful of the number of Kiwis who tour Europe in motorhomes, It wasn’t only soldiers who struggled with the mud – the Trust is also investigating the possibility of limited onsite facilities horses and mules were also victims of the quagmire for them, although there are already motorhome parking facilities within the town. annex, may take a little longer. he project has been warmly and enthusiastically backed by the SELF-FUNDING Mayor and Town Council of Le Quesnoy. he Trust’s proposal is that the museum, the self-catering tourist Mayor Marie-Sophie Lesne says the friendship and respect that and student accommodation, and the bookshop and café will enable have been shown during the process of organising the sale of the the whole project to be self-funding. property to the Trust, have further strengthened the high regard At this stage, the Trust is planning to complete the project in stages: that the people of Le Quesnoy hold for New Zealand and New Stage 1a is the purchase and refurbishment of the exterior of the Zealanders, a century ater the New Zealand soldiers saved the existing Gendarmerie building, and external landscaping work, town and its people. including a Memorial Walk “It is a very unique relationship, and we especially remain very Stage 1b is the refurbishment of the interior of the Gendarmerie emotional about the liberation of our town by New Zealanders in and four of the maisonettes for accommodation, together with the November 1918, ater four years of enemy occupation,” she said in museum director’s accommodation a letter to the Trust. Stage 2 is the refurbishment of the remaining maisonettes “We want it to be fully understood that the Town Council is Stage 3 is the construction of the new annex building. making the ofer of the Gendarmerie property to all the people of he investment phase for the project is expected to take three New Zealand, particularly to the families and descendants of the years, while the completion of all works, including the new museum 85,000 New Zealand troops who came to Europe in two world wars to help save our country from oppression. “Importantly, it also relects our everlasting gratitude, begun when our national President travelled from Paris four days ater the victory to thank the New Zealand Rile Brigade who were attending to their casualties ater the battle. We know New Zealand lost 135 ine men in the battle amongst its 500 casualties, saving the lives of more than 3000 of our townsfolk with no casualties. his debt from our town can never be repaid, but it can be honoured in eternity as we jointly intend to do.” Ms Lesne says the link between Le Quesnoy and New Zealand is ‘nonpareil’ (unrivalled) and the memorial museum will become a focus for the region to acknowledge its immense debt to the Kiwi soldiers and will “enable us to provide the deserved special treatment for all visiting Kiwis as representatives of two generations of Kiwi soldiers across two world wars that spilled their blood for France”.

Mud was a major issue on the churned battleields of the rain- KIWI SUPPORT soaked Western Front. In his First World War diary, 21-year- he museum project and the fundraising drive have the backing of old Whakatāne bank clerk Private Monty Ingram, recorded many prominent New Zealanders, including former Prime Minister the horrors of the war (see book reviews). In the Battle of Helen Clark who is patron of the Trust, Sir Don McKinnon who is Broodseinde in October 1917, his Ruahine Company lost 90 of its the chair, and businessman and former Auckland city councillor Greg 120 men. In his diary, he wrote: “All about us are our own dead Moyle, a retired New Zealand Army major. Other trustees are Sir and dying, lying in the mud in the drizzling rain. God knows Lockwood Smith, Mark Hall, Brett Hewson and Michele Whiteclife. when they will be removed as a vast sea of mud lies between us Others who have given the project their active backing include and the habitable rear from whence the stretcher bearers must come. Most of our stretcher bearers have ‘gone West’ and we are Sir Jerry Mateparae, Sir Anand Satyanand, Dame Jenny Gibbs and physically incapable of removing them ourselves.” Celia Caughey, while former All Black captain Todd Blackadder

20 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz and Olympic cyclist Sarah Ulmer have also added their support. available. he Trust is a registered charity on the New Zealand Patron Helen Clark expects the museum will become a destination Charities Services register. for young New Zealanders, in much the same way as those who Although the Trust is working to obtain sponsorship and inancial travel to Europe now make trips to Gallipoli. contributions from major corporates and other organisations for “We want to make sure the stories of those young New Zealanders the majority of the fundraising, it is also encouraging the public who travelled to the other side of the world a century ago will be to contribute to the project, perhaps in memory of those members passed on to future generations of New Zealanders,” she says. of their families who served, and perhaps were killed, in service “he town of Le Quesnoy – which New Zealand soldiers liberated, to their country. and where there is so much support for the project – is an ideal For details on how you can donate to this very important memorial location to create a special place to remember them.” project, and for further information on the New Zealand Memorial Many nations whose soldiers participated in he Great War already Museum Trust – Le Quesnoy, visit the website at: nzwmm.org.nz have memorial museums in France and Belgium, and New Zealand at this point is the exception. Sir Don McKinnon says the project is of national signiicance as New Zealand’s irst permanent war memorial on the Western Front. “New Zealand is one of the few Commonwealth countries that doesn’t have a permanent memorial like this on the Western Front,” he says. “Canada, South Africa and Australia all have them, and we need one too. “We have support for the museum from both the government and the opposition and we’re currently discussing how the government can further support us. In the meantime, we’re rolling out our fundraising strategy so that individuals and corporates have the opportunity to support the museum. We already have signiicant pledges from several major corporates, including Westpac, and most recently, a signiicant contribution from the Waipa District Council.” here is no deadline for the fundraising campaign, Herb Farrant, military historian, First World War buf, and as the project is being done in stages with work general secretary of the New Zealand Memorial Museum on each stage proceeding as funding becomes Trust, in his role as Western Front battleield tour guide

QUINN’S POST

CREATED BY TRENCH EXPERIENCE SIR PETER JACKSON Challenge yourself! In this extraordinary re-creation of the trenches at Quinn’s Post, experience what it was like for the Anzac troops at Gallipoli. Open daily 9am–6pm. Admission charges apply. Pukeahu, Wellington. www.greatwarexhibition.nz facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 21 COMMEMORATING THE ARMISTICE

Sidebar

THE BATTLE FOR LE QUESNOY Words: Tom Clarke Photos: As credited

n the European Spring of 1918, Germany launched an all-out assault against Allied forces on the Western Front in a last-minute bid to win Ithe war before the full manpower and resources of the United States could join the Allied cause against them. +PVJGƒIJVKPIVJG$TKVKUJVJ#TO[YCUFGUVTQ[GFCPFHQTVJGƒTUVVKOG gaps appeared in the Allied front east of Amiens. Five days into the battle, the New Zealand Division was moved in to plug a gap in the Allied NKPGUQPVJG5QOOGCPFD[#RTKNJCFOCPCIGFVQJCNVVJG)GTOCP onslaught. The desperate action by the New Zealand Division – by now QPGQHVJGOQUVHQTOKFCDNGƒIJVKPIFKXKUKQPUQHVJG$TKVKUJ'ZRGFKVKQPCT[ Force on the Western Front – was to be pivotal in halting the Spring Offensive, when German victory was a real possibility. The large-scale German attack failed, and its army suffered heavy casualties. In August the Allies, reinforced by almost two million US troops, launched a counteroffensive to drive the Germans out of France CPF$GNIKWO #UVJGQPN[EQNQPKCNFKXKUKQPKPVJG$TKVKUJTF#TO[VJG0GY

22 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz Despite heavy rain, a New Zealand regimental band plays in Le Quesnoy to the obvious delight of the just- liberated locals. his photo was taken by Henry Armytage Sanders on the November 5, 1918 the day a er the liberation of Le Quesnoy by New Zealand troops (Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand.)

Marie-Sophie Lesne, the Mayor, said the people of Le Quesnoy .KGWVGPCPV.GUNKG#XGTKNNVJGKPVGNNKIGPEGQHƒEGTQHVJGVJ$CVVCNKQPTF would never forget the sacrifice made by such a small nation from 0GY

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iamhopenz

TheKeytoLifeCharitableTrust COMMEMORATING THE ARMISTICE Story Tom Clarke Photos Supplied

POIGNANT REMINDERS OF WWI SACRIFICES

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wo dramatic and poignant symbols that testify to the with mounts by the regiment. human tragedy that was the First World War are on The new regiment began assembling at the Addington Show display at the New Zealand Army Museum in Waiouru. Grounds in Christchurch on August 12 and sailed from Lyttelton for One is a sandstone grave marker from Gallipoli that in Wellington on August 23. Records show that Harding and the 10th 1915 marked the resting place of a 34-year-old trooper Nelson Squadron entered camp at Trentham until the departure of Tof the Canterbury Mounted Riles, and the second is a substantial the NZ Expeditionary Force for the Middle East on October 16, 1914 oak cross that marked the battleield grave of a 20-year-old Otago arriving in Egypt on November 30. medical student, killed just 17 days before the end of the war. he regiment trained in Egypt until May 1915 when it was ordered he sandstone grave marker originally identiied the Gallipoli grave to Gallipoli, landing at Anzac Cove on May 12. Over the next seven of 7/207 Trooper William Frederick Harding, 10 Nelson Squadron, months they participated in the largest battles of that theatre at Canterbury Mounted Riles. Chunuk Bair and the ighting for Hill 60. Harding was English by birth and served with It is believed that Walter Harding was involved the South African Constabulary during the in defending the Turkish attack on the newly Anglo–Boer War (1899–1902), seeing action in captured No. 3 Outpost (near an area known as the Cape Colony and Orange Free State. Ater the ‘Table Top’) where 97 New Zealanders had the war, he moved to New Zealand, but it’s not to defend their position against 3000 Turks over known where he lived or what he did as an a two-day period. As the Turks reinforced their occupation, although it is likely that he settled trenches on May 31, it was decided to abandon No. in the Nelson area. 3 Post, and reluctantly the dead were let behind. He enlisted in the armed forces for WWI on It is not known when Walter Harding was August 16, 1914 – just 10 days ater the declaration severely wounded, but it is known that he died on of war. May 31 from wounds he sustained in that battle The Canterbury Mounted Rifles Regiment and was interred there, with his grave marked by a was formed in 1914 from the three Territorial Force mounted rile sandstone boulder on which his comrades roughly carved his details. regiments of the Canterbury Military District, which took in the Years later, the sandstone marker was found on the peninsula and 10th Mounted Riles of Nelson, the 1st Mounted Riles (Canterbury came back to New Zealand through oicial channels including the Yeomanry Cavalry) of Canterbury and the 8th Mounted Riles of South Defence Department and the New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Afairs Canterbury. hey formed part of the New Zealand Expeditionary Force. and Trade. It appears that it may possibly have been whitewashed his was made up of 26 oicers, 523 other ranks, and 600 horses. originally and that this has worn of over time. Being mounted infantry, the theory was that the regiment rode into Ater the war, the remains of Walter Harding were recovered from battle on their horses, and then dismounted to ight on foot. Members the battleield and reinterred in the Canterbury Cemetery at Gallipoli could supply their own horses, and those who couldn’t were supplied (Grave I. B. 5). He was the son of Mr and Mrs Harry Harding of Romsey, Hampshire, in England. he second memorial is a wooden cross that once marked the grave of a young New Zealand soldier fatally wounded in France in the closing stages of WWI. It is now believed to be the last of its kind in existence. he substantial cross is made from oak and is 1.7 metres high. It originally marked the battleield resting ground of Lance Corporal John Canning Dove near the village of Vertigneul in the north-west of France near the border with Belgium. His body was recovered ater the war and reinterred at the nearby Vertigneul Churchyard at Romeries. Lance Corporal Dove, or Jacky as he was known to his comrades, served with the 4th Battalion of the New Zealand Rile Brigade. He was born in Rockhampton, Queensland on November 23, 1897, and shortly ater his birth the family emigrated to New Zealand, settling in Auckland. Ater completing his schooling, Jacky was accepted into the Otago Medical School where, in 1917, he was in his last year of study to become a doctor, but apparently he was consumed with guilt for not contributing to the war efort, and against the wishes of his family and his tutors, he enlisted on October 18,1917 and was assigned to 3rd New Zealand (Rile) Brigade, 4th Battalion, D Company of the New Zealand Rile Brigade. Ater his military training, he let Wellington on April 23, 1918 on the ship Willochra with the 36th Reinforcements of the New Zealand Expeditionary Force, the 37th Reinforcements NZ Rile Brigade and the 28th Reinforcements Māori Contingent. He transhipped to the liner Ormonde at Suez and again to the Duchess of Argyle in Italy, Dove Cross arriving in Southampton on July 18, 1918 and thence to Brocton

26 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz Camp near Birmingham in County Stafordshire, the English home It is not known when Walter of the New Zealand Rile Brigade. He shipped to France on September 21, joining the New Zealand Harding was severely wounded, but Rile Brigade in the ield. A month later, on October 26, 1918, in it is known that he died on May 31 ighting near the walled French village of Le Quesnoy, 20-year-old Jacky was mortally wounded, shot through the right thigh, abdomen from wounds he sustained in that and let leg. He died at the No. 2 Field Ambulance later that day, just 16 days before the end of the war, and his body was interred in battle and was interred there, with a farmyard near where he fell. his grave marked by a sandstone he cross was made by a member of the NZ Expeditionary Force at the time, at the request of a Dove family friend, who erected it at boulder on which his comrades the gravesite. roughly carved his details Later his remains were recovered and reinterred in the nearby Vertigneul Churchyard, with a standard Imperial War Graves Commission headstone, and the original wooden cross was abandoned. remembrance installation in the entranceway gallery of the Army Fortunately, the oak cross was recovered at the time by a French Museum at Waiouru that will be on display till the end of January. teenager who kept it safe until the 1980s when, through a chance The focus of the exhibition is on the return of the unknown meeting with Australian John Fysh, a nephew of Lance Corporal warrior and on those New Zealand servicemen and women who Dove, the cross was recovered and ofered to the New Zealand lie overseas. It includes the original ‘unknown warrior’ headstone Army Museum. that came from Caterpillar Valley Cemetery on the Somme, a In 1988, with the help of the War Graves Commission and the second ‘back-up’ casket to the one that the unknown warrior was New Zealand Army, the cross was taken to England and then lown returned to New Zealand in from the Caterpillar Valley Cemetery to New Zealand by the Royal New Zealand Air Force. in 2004, and seven Matt Gauldie artworks that commemorate the The cross, along with the sandstone marker, form part of a return of the body.

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facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 27 DARGAVILLE Story + Photos Peta Stavelli

RAILWAY SPRINGS TO LIFE

A new rail-cart journey through the hinterland of the Northern Wairoa River is helping promote the hidden history of this fascinating region, writes Peta Stavelli

28 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NORTHLAND DARGAVILLE 35°56’26.0”S 173°51’52.0”E

very time I go to Dargaville, I hear a whisper about some have so far been documented. hidden discovery that would blow the collective mind if At Pouto lighthouse, high in the shiting sand dunes, he told us that anyone got wind of it. Recently someone did. Unusual bulldozers sometimes have to remove tonnes of sand from around its conditions on the coast revealed another shipwreck buried entrance, or access to the building would be forever lost. From the deep under the sand at Pouto, on the northern head of gantry he pointed out the harbour bar, and told us how in the early Ethe Kaipara Harbour. days of the lighthouse’s operation, the keeper’s apprentice frequently Pouto is the scene of numerous shipwrecks, and a lovely place to rowed out into the churning seas to ind the latest safe entrance. visit. here’s a wee campground adjacent to the lighthouse-keeper’s At his signal, the lighthouse keeper would manually reposition the cottage, behind the beach, where motorhomers are also welcome. We enormous wooden signals on land, so these could be lined up by stayed there a few years back when we took the legendary sand safari approaching sea captains. with the late Jock Wills. Jock also told us about the early Māori settlers who carried stones Jock’s passing marked the end of the tours, but the memories remain for their ire-pits across the sand dunes. And later he took us to see of a brilliant man with a fantastic knowledge of the area’s history. Jock a 20-metre olive tree at Pouto which points to early settlement of told us about the shiting sands of the heads and the many shipwrecks Aotearoa by Mediterranean people. I cannot vouch for the truth of concealed there. One of the sandbars – known as he Graveyards – is this, but I do know that Jock was an honourable man who was aware thought to be the scene of up to 100 shipwrecks, although only 43 of the gravity of the discovery.

AT A GLANCE For more information on the rail carts go to portdargavillecruises.co.nz/rail-tours Motorhomers are spoiled for choice in the region with a POP at Dargaville Museum’s Harding Park dargavillemuseum.co There are numerous fully serviced campgrounds Baylys Beach and Glinks Gully are also popular places to stay Check out Pouto – 67 kilometres south-west of &CTICXKNNGŤHQTYTGEMURQVVKPICPFITGCVƒUJKPI

facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 29 DARGAVILLE

Dargaville is so much more than just the Kumara Capital of New Zealand

Appearing to underscore this theory is a story which appeared in he Guardian in late June 2018. he story is about a 13th century Italian manuscript, De Arte Venandi cum Avibus (he Art of Hunting with Birds) in which a drawing of a female Australasian cockatoo is depicted in the margins. Researchers say this discovery underscores their belief that European trading routes throughout this region were lourishing as much as 700 years earlier than previously thought. he extensive history of the region is being given due credit by keen locals who are establishing unique tours, like the Rail Tour along the disused northern Wairoa line from Dargaville. When we arrived at the starting point for the Rail Tour, on aptly named Station Road, we found our fellow travellers to all be motor homers. his augured well. I knew we were going to have a great day. And we did, with the only negative being that they all got to stay at the end of the day and I did not. Ater a comprehensive safety brieing and being issued with walkie- A tourist gives scale to the mysterious talkies, we piled into our rail carts and set of. We had been told about 20-metre olive tree at Pouto the protocol for the numerous road crossings, and the irst one came

We were intrigued by the turn around method at the halfway point

30 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz shortly ater we set of, at the local marae. A little further along we stopped again, this time to take in an area which was once the home to a thriving lax – or harakeke – industry. Harakeke was so valued by Māori that every pa had a plantation to ensure good supply of the precious commodity which had multiple uses, from rope (‘taura’) used for ishing line and loats, through to woven goods and even in cosmetics, medicine and food, where it was used as a sweetener. he lax trade in New Zealand was exclusively a Māori enterprise, which in 1830 generated an estimated revenue of £26,000. By 1930 the lax trade was diminishing as other ibres came into use for rope, but like others across New Zealand, the mill at northern Wairoa had long diversiied into the production of ine linen. Looking across land now drained and converted to dairy production, it was hard to imagine the extent of the industry which once thrived in this region, where local Māori initiated trade links with the new British colony of Australia long before they signed the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. he late Jock Wills

A series of bridges included Northland’s own ‘Bridge to Nowhere’ facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 31 DARGAVILLE

Land where a thriving lax industry once lourished has now been converted to dairying

Captain James Cook made mention of the quality of Phormium tenax – New Zealand lax – in his journal. Cook’s entry excited the interest of the founding Governor of the penal colony of NSW, Arthur Phillips, who in 1793 ordered the kidnapping of two New Zealand Māori who were taken to Norfolk Island to teach the growing and processing of the revered plant. When this ill-advised venture proved to be a failure, Australian interest in New Zealand lax did not resume until 1802 when it was again eyed up for its potential for making convict clothing. he irst recorded import of lax into the port of Sydney was of 60

Safety was paramount as we passed over highways he Northern Line Rail transport came late to Dargaville and farm roads

32 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz

DARGAVILLE tonnes in 1818. At the height of the New Zealand lax trade and until 1830, around 30 vessels, each capable of carrying from between 10 and 100 tons, are recorded as making 33 trans-Tasman trips. Trade between northern Māori and the ledgling colony of Australia was so well established by this time that it led to the creation of the irst New Zealand lag before the birth of the nation. In 1830 the George Murray, a trading vessel plying the route from Hokianga to Sydney, was seized in the harbour for failing to ly a lag of nation of register. Under British Maritime Law this could have meant the coniscation of a ship and its cargo. Australian authorities were, however, sympathetic. New Zealand was a not yet a nation and had no lag of its own to ly. his perilous trade situation led to a meeting arranged by James Busby between 25 Māori chiefs at Waitangi, and to the eventual establishment of the United Tribes Flag, versions of which are still in use today. To the best of my knowledge, New Zealand vessels remain the only ships in the world which can legally ly dual ensigns. he manufacture and shipment of Northland lax was later subsumed when Kauri ‘gold’ – both gum and logs – was discovered. Dargaville became for a short time the greatest population centre in New Zealand, and the northern Wairoa River – along the banks of which we rumbled in our rail carts – was the highway. Later, road transport and the eventual establishment of the northern railway line provided a less risky route than the 150 kilometre-long river John pointed and its treacherous bar harbour. However, while rail travel throughout out places of the country had been long established, the Dargaville line took two interest along decades to complete, and it was not inally operational until 1943. he the way line continued to carry a mixture of passengers and freight until 1967, when passenger services were disestablished. Finally, in 2014 KiwiRail carousel in action. Reluctantly this signalled that the time had come announced its closure. to head for home – and for these unlucky ones, back to madness and Enter the entrepreneurial duo, John Hansen and Dave Selby, who mayhem of Auckland. were our hosts today for the shorter (2.5 hour) rail-cart experience to As I let Dargaville and passed again through the lovely Kaipara Tangowahine. In the future, when the red tape which currently threatens countryside, I was already planning my next return. to strangle the project is slashed away, there will be a full-day excursion to Waiotera Junction – a 98-kilometre rail journey that has not been available to the public for 50 years. And there may also be combined boat and rail tours. Watch this space. On this occasion, however, we stopped midway to turn around at a new siding and comfort stop built especially for the rail-cart adventure. When the bench table was set with tea and scones it was roundly agreed they were the best date scones any of us had recently tasted – good scones beautifully crated and liberally spread with lashings of butter. he cheese scones were pretty ine, too. I asked Dave, the company baker, if he was single. “Only on the weekends,” he quipped. So engrossed were we in our scones, we nearly missed the caboose

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Reluctantly this signalled that the time had come to head for home – and for these unlucky ones, back to madness and mayhem of Auckland

facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 35 LINDIS PASS Story + Photos Allan Dick

A LAND UNSEEN BY THE WHITE MAN

Allan Dick tracks the story of the McLean brothers who left their mark on Canterbury and Otago in many, many ways

36 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz OTAGO LINDIS PASS 44°39’0” S 169°31’1” E

glorious early spring morning and I’ve got the nose of the Blue Streak (my Nissan Pathinder) heading up the Waitaki Valley and into the Lindis Pass. his is one of my favourite drives. he Waitaki Valley with its three interlocking lakes, Aburgeoning vineyards, dairy and sheep farms all hemmed in with snow- capped mountains, is one of New Zealand’s greatest secrets. he Lindis Pass – 100 kilometres of winding alpine highway – is breathtakingly beautiful, connecting Omarama with Cromwell and hence, North with Central Otago. Today it’s a road much travelled, by an endless stream of cars, buses, campervans and enormous pantechnicons ferrying people and goods in and out of the scenic wonderland of Queenstown and Wanaka. Most simply drive, eyes focused ahead, oblivious of what they are missing by not stopping to explore. I love this drive and would happily do it once a week, but today I’m on a mission. I’m visiting Morven Hills Station deep in the Lindis Pass to photograph an enormous stone woolshed built in the mid-to-late 19th century by the McLean brothers. Today, at 36,000 acres, Morven Hills is a large sheep station (by New Zealand standards) that’s been in the ownership of the Snow family for more than 100 years. But it’s a mere shadow of its original glory when reports of the time had its acreage varying from 450,000 to 500,000 acres! I’d phoned Richard Snow the night before and let a message on his answering machine telling him what I was doing and that I’d be through the next day. But nobody was home when I arrived, so I mooched around the outside of the huge, T-shaped, schist-and-Oamaru-stone woolshed, one of the largest in the country and a true historic building. hen there was a whisper overhead as a two-seater Robinson helicopter cruised down the face of the mountains to land near the homestead. It was Richard Snow. He’d been out checking on stock. He’s had a helicopter for 35 years and it’s obviously the most practical way to get around his huge spread. We spent 10 minutes in the warm sunshine leaning across a fence talking. I wondered aloud about mustering in the day when it was 450 to 500 thousand acres. “No, it was never that big,” Richard said. “We’ve got 36,000 acres. When the McLeans had it, it was 10 times that – so 360,000 acres.” Even history books had it wrong! Even so, 360,000 acres is huge. he size of a small European or Central American country. I looked at the woolshed – a massive and impressive building. “Where did the McLean bothers, Allan and John, live,” I asked, expecting to be told they had a grand mansion that had long vanished. “Down in that small house below.” I looked. It was a tiny cob and schist cottage with a chimney at either end. I mentally compared it with the three grand houses they later lived in and which set me of on this story – ‘Redcastle’ in Oamaru, ‘he Valley’ across the Waitaki River, and ‘Holly Lea’ in Manchester Street, Christchurch. It was Holly Lea that started it. When I was at Radio Avon in the mid-1980s, from the top of the Although this is not speciically a story about Kilmore Street studios I oten looked out a window at this enormous, the Lindis Pass, it is central to part of the twin-turreted house in Manchester Street. It was dark-hued and so story. So let’s take a look at this spectacular masculine that it was almost intimidating. I asked, but nobody really drive through spectacular country knew much about it. facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 37 LINDIS PASS

Holly Lea — or Allan McLean’s Mansion — is a spectacular building. It contained 53 rooms all with timber framing and timber cladding he original plan for McLean’s grand house

One day, MP (and later to be Prime Minister, briely) Mike Moore the decision to move to Australia with the ive children. here the three called in to see me. Mike was going through his creative stage and had just boys did very well – beginning as working shepherds before branching given the world lamb burgers. He looked out the window at the house and out into storekeeping and gold mining. said, “What a waste. hat should be something special – like an exclusive he family was obviously very close and they worked as a team and boutique hotel.” stayed together. At one stage a fair-sized pile of gold had accumulated, as I asked what he knew about it and he gave me what was to be the stock the nearest bank was some distance away. A Chinese miner called Fan So answer from many people, “hat’s Holly Lea, built by Allan McLean.” overheard a couple of ne’er-do-wells hatching a plan to shoot John and take And who was Allan McLean? the gold. Fan So swam a river and ran several miles to warn John and so “Oh, he was a Canterbury farmer.” saved his life. John befriended Fan So and later employed him as his servant. Well, yes. And no. here is much more to the story than that. Much, Mary McLean was the matriarch and wanting the best for her family much more. she identiied that there were even better opportunities in the South Island Allan McLean was one of three boys and two girls born to Alexander of New Zealand. and Mary McLean on the island of Coll in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland. hey bought 500 ewes and some horses, and hired a schooner to take Allan was born in 1822. he eldest boy was John, the youngest Allan, with them across the Tasman, landing in Lyttelton Harbour in 1852. here Robertson in the middle, lanked by the girls, Mary and Alexandrina. was only one way out of the harbour in those days and that was the At irst the family was reasonably well of with farm holdings on the Bridle Path over the Port Hills, so up and over they trudged, shepherding islands and the mainland, but the region was hit with a crop disease and their stock. At the top they stopped and got their irst look at the land Alexander had to supplement his income by buying a ishing boat. Sadly that was to become their home. the boat sank in a violent storm in 1836 and while Alexander initially In the fledgling town of Christchurch they agreed to lease two survived, he sufered injuries from which he later died. properties – one on the banks of the Waimakariri River and the other he family situation worsened, and with poverty and penury staring near what is now Burwood. And it was the former where they made them in the face, in 1840 Mary McLean, who was then 53 years of age, made their irst lasting mark on New Zealand – there really was an island

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Like Holly Lea and Redcastle, the woolshed at Morven Hills Station is imposing — one of the largest in New Zealand. Please remember this building is on private property — and respect that. Allan Dick thanks Richard Snow for access to take these photographs there in those days and it would become better known as McLean’s a horse for himself and a second pack horse to carry his tent, bedding Island. Later, earthworks changed the course of the branch of the river and food. He made his way south through what is now the Mackenzie and the land lost its ‘island’ status but the name remained. country and eventually reached the upper reaches of the Waitaki River he three McLean men, John, Robertson and Allan, invariably wore where he met a Māori chief, Huruhuru, who was welcoming of the traditional Scottish clothing, in the tartan of their clan, and became arrival of the Pakeha. well known in Christchurch. Chief Huruhuru agreed to guide John McLean, and using mokihi hings moved quickly for the family. hey worked hard and looked (rats made of rushes) they eventually reached the head of the Ahuriri for opportunities. hey heard of land available further south so John and Valley. Huruhuru knew what he was doing and where they were going, Allan set of on horseback to have a look. hey had to cross the Rakaia because this was the pathway Māori had used for generations on their River while it was in full lood and both got washed of their horses. way to the West Coast for greenstone. John got to the other bank but at irst couldn’t ind Allan. hen he saw hey climbed to the top of what would later be called the Grandview him spread-eagled on a shingle bank out in the river, so weakened by Mountains and there John McLean saw a massive expanse of land – his struggles in the turbulent water that he couldn’t stand. John brought all the way to Lake Wanaka. Encouraged greatly by what he saw, he him safely to shore and they continued on their journey. thanked Chief Huruhuru and continued on until the reached a mighty hey liked what they saw and arranged for the lease of 40,000 acres river that would later be called the ‘Clutha’, and he followed it to the between where Ashburton is now and the Southern Alps, that they coast and then north to Dunedin. called ‘Lagmhor’ ater their birthplace on the Isle of Coll. Here he registered his claim to run sheep on this land – all (what we hey wrote back to Scotland and soon friends came out to join them were to learn later) 360,000 acres of it! In pre-metric terms this was and work on the farm. Records show that they drained swamps, erected 2000 square miles. It was bounded to the north by Lake Hawea, to the 350 miles (580km) of fencing and grazed 20,000 sheep. It was just 1855. west by the Clutha River, to the south by the Dunstan Mountains and hree years later they heard of even better land suitable for sheep to east pretty much by what we now call the Lindis Pass. further south – it was land that no white man had ever seen. It fell to But the colonial government imposed strict regulations, including John to explore the southern land and see what he could ind. He took how it was to be stocked.

Te Huruhuru, the Maori chief who “welcomed the pakeha” and led John McLean to the land that became Morven Hill Station, is buried in Waimate, where his grave is in a sorry state

40 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz Much, but not all, of Lagmhor was sold, the family moved south, and he lease was conirmed! a small homestead was built some 15 kilometres south of what is now Meanwhile, the two sisters had married, Robertson had returned to called the Lindis Pass Saddle. While the house was less than modest, Scotland (where he died not long ater) and mother Mary had retired no expense was spared in building the massive woolshed. With such to a small house built for her in Christchurch by John and Allan. John a vast tract of land the McLean’s knew that shearing would be a huge had also married, but Allan, a handsome man, would remain a bachelor event. he schist-and-Oamaru-stone structure had 34 shearing stands! all of his life. But the government man had yet to arrive to check the stock numbers he wool clip was huge and was transported from the woolshed to to see they were in accordance with the lease. Oamaru via the Waitaki Valley on wagons, each drawn by three teams Although the McLeans had every intention of meeting the agreement of 14 bullocks. Each wagon carried 30 bales of wool, each weighing they weren’t quite ready for the inspector, but they were renowned for 400 pounds! their hospitality and before the inspector arrived a case of good Scottish It wasn’t long before the brothers realised that trouble was coming. whisky was ordered. From the 1830s rabbits had been imported into New Zealand to he inspector was shown one block of land and he could easily see provide a homely touch as well as some sport. he arrival and release there were tens of thousands of sheep. hey returned to the homestead of the irst batches made news, crowds gathered, hands were clapped and that night the famous McLean hospitality lowed. Including the and cheers were raised as the cages were opened and the furry little whisky. But while that was going on, the shepherds were moving the critters hippity-hopped out of sight. Maybe it was the sea voyage that sheep from the block that had been inspected, to the next. And so it made them so randy(?) – whatever the reason, the rabbits found New went on for the two or three weeks it took for the inspection. Zealand conditions so much to their liking that they bred like – well,

Allan McLean wasn’t the only McLean to live in a grand fashion. His brother John — Big Jock — retired to Redcastle on the northern outskirts of Oamaru — and a thousand acres. Today, Redcastle, and its stables, are part of the St Kevin’s Roman Catholic School for boys and girls facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 41 LINDIS PASS rabbits – and were in plague proportions before anyone realised it. And rabbits weren’t alone in liking their new home – they simply joined the list of things that exploded out of control – gorse, broom, opossums, rats, deer, stoats, ferrets, rooks, geese, pigs, etc. The McLeans knew that rabbits were going to become a major problem, so, in 1870, they decided to get out. hey freeholded about 60,000 acres, sold of the leases on the rest, and armed with bank vaults of cash they went buying. In partnership with one of their brothers-in-law, George Buckley, they bought three adjoining properties on the north side of the Waitaki A er leaving Morven Hills, Allan McLean built this house he called “he Valley” at Waikakahi intending to live the rest River, down nearer the coast – these were the Glenavy Estate (22,500 of his life there, but the forced sale of the run changed that acres), Morven Estate (34,500 acres) and Elephant Hill Estate (22,500 acres) – all up, 79,500 acres. In 1875, George Buckley (who was an MP) sold his shareholding to John and Allan, and in 1880 John and Allan also decided to dissolve their longstanding partnership. John had property on the Waitaki Plains and also at Redcastle, just north of the growing township of Oamaru. He decided to retire, selling most of his property, but retaining the thousand acres at Redcastle on which had been built a huge red bick home and stables — today the centre for the Roman Catholic school for boys and girls, St Kevin’s. John and his wife had retained the services of the faithful Fan So, and reforms in motion and Waikakahi was to be the poster boy. when he died they had him buried in the Oamaru cemetery with a But McLean didn’t want to sell. headstone thanking him for his years of loyal service – and for saving he pressure was applied. McKenzie, as the Minister of Lands, travelled John’s life in Australia. It reads: “To the Memory of Fan So, a native south from Wellington by ferry to Lyttelton and then by special carriage of China who died 3rd October 1885, who was for 33 years a faithful attached to a train that took him to Glenavy. Here the carriage was servant of John McLean, Redcastle, Oamaru”. unhooked and McKenzie was picked up and taken to he Valley for a In the break-up, Allan retained 48,000 acres between the Waikakahi night of hard bargaining. and Waihao Rivers. Here he built a magniicent 27-roomed, two-storeyed, In the morning, the deal was done. The government paid Allan wooden home he called ‘he Valley’. Although he never married, he McLean £326,000 for his 48,000 acres which was then carved into 130 had a housekeeper, Mrs Emily Phillips. farms, 14 runs and 47 village sections. Allan McLean developed the home and grounds at he Valley into a Although fabulously wealthy with his handsome bank balance well showpiece. His legendary hospitality continued in the form of a 16-bed and truly topped up with the government cheque, Allan McLean wasn’t bunk room which was free to the passing Knights of the Road – the happy. He turned his back and rode north to Christchurch, never to tramps, itinerant workers and passing vagabonds. he station carried return. 69,000 sheep, and 40-horse teams were used to plough one block of Here, he lived at irst in the small cottage he and John had had built for 8000 acres. their mother, who had died in 1871 at the age of 84. But Allan McLean Famously, Allan McLean became a bit of a dandy in the Glenavy/ had plans, and he bought ive acres of land between Manchester and Oamaru region and was a familiar sight dressed in a suit of a burgundy/ Colombo Streets in order to fulil these plans. here’s a wonderful story plum colour with white bow tie and other accessories. He rode in a about him arriving at the oice of a well-known Christchurch architect’s white, panelled wagonette the locals called ‘he Yankee Express’. Life company, England Brothers, and being unknown, this slightly eccentric was good – and comfortable – for McLean. He was wealthy and he old man was passed down the command chain to a junior. obviously loved his life and style at he Valley. Christchurch has always been a city where architecture is important But the Liberal government had plans for land reform. and it was so in the mid-1890s. McLean explained to the junior that he Headed by (Sir) John McKenzie, a farmer from near Palmerston 60 wanted a 40-roomed house designed, but the junior either misheard kilometres south, the government decided on a plan to break up the or thought McLean was being silly and duly presented McLean with a large land holdings that had made so many people so wealthy and ofer pretty standard plan for a four-bedroomed house. opportunities to smaller farmers – and Allan McLean’s Waikakahi was “Forty rooms, NOT FOUR!” McLean is said to have thundered, on squarely in McKenzie’s sights. he government wanted to set the land which he was quickly moved upstairs to a senior!

See kaka, kiwi, tui, kereru & more Warm, comfortable Nature's self-contained units with complimentary Paradise! use of vehicles and bikes While the woolshed at Morven Hills Ph: 03 219 1096 | 156 Horseshoe Bay Rd Stewart Island Station is huge, some of the original [email protected] | stewartislandapartments.com accommodation was more than modest he house, ‘Holly Lea’, was completed in 1902 On the trip to Morven Hills Station, Allan Dick took a side trip up the remote when Allan was 81 years of age. Instead of 40 but spectacular Ahuriri Valley and found these — a spectacular gateway to rooms, it contained 53 over three loors and 23,000 an equally spectacular and exclusive new ishing lodge and a massive ilm set. Hundreds of staf are constructing sets for the Disney remake of Mulan amidst square feet. It was built by builders Graham and great security and secrecy. his could almost be as big as Lord of the Rings Grieg in little over two years and it was a mixture of current, fashionable Jacobean style. It was a formidable and imposing home. During the build, Emily Phillips was sent to England to buy furnishings and ittings for the house, and when completed, along with the grounds, it was spectacular and lavish. But everyone still wondered why an unmarried man in his early eighties wanted such a large house. hat was answered on his death in 1907. Emily Phillips was to live in the house for as long as she wanted, with 3,000 Pounds per annum for life, and two cottages for her staf – one for her Chaufeur Chum Higgins and one for her gardener. He had had his solicitors draw up a long and careful will that established ‘he McLean’s Institution’, which looked But, that’s not the end of the story. ater the house and its occupants in accordance with his wishes with a In 1913, Emily Phillips decided Holly Lea was too big and she returned fund of £300,000. he Institute was incorporated by an Act of Parliament to near where she and Allan McLean had obviously spent some happy – he McLean Institute Act 1909. years. Using her inheritance from the estate she had built a large, Holly Lea – or McLean’s Mansion – was used for this purpose until gracious and turreted home on the slopes of the hills behind Waimate 1955 before the trustees decided on a change of direction and embarked with spectacular views over Waimate, farmland and the Paciic Ocean on a project of establishing retirement villages. More recently this located close to the Hunter Hills overlooking Waimate. his house she included the development of Holly Lea Village at 123 Fendalton Road. called ‘Te Kiteroa’. A second, smaller house was also built ‘for the staf’. In 2015, they joined forces with the Generus Living Group which today Ater Emily’s death, he Women’s Division of Federated Farmers manages Ranfurly Village in Auckland, Pacific Coast Village in Mt (WDFF) ran Te Kiteroa as a Rest Home for farmer’s wives from 1945 to Maunganui, he Russley Village and Holly Lea Village in Christchurch. the late 1970’s. In more recent times it’s been a luxury B&B with attached Over the years, much of the original ive acres on which Holly Lea stood vineyards and café. Te Kiteroa is currently for sale. has been sold of, and with the change in direction of the Trust the house he Valley, inland from Glenavy, stands surrounded by trees these itself was sold. In recent decades it has been subdivided internally and days and is a fabulous family home. used for a large number of purposes. It was damaged in the Christchurch Indicative of how close the McLean family was, there is a memorial earthquakes and the owners did have plans to demolish it, but as a Grade in Christchurch’s Addington cemetery to them all, whether they are 1 Historic Place, that was easier said than done. It is to be restored. buried there or not.

Building large must have been contagious. A er she retired in 1913, Allan McLean’s housekeeper had this home — Te Kiteroa — and a smaller house for staf, built on the hill above Waimate. It is currently for sale facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 43 GREAT RIDES – WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson and as credited

A GREAT RIDE Gary Patterson

Cartographer and trail designer Gary Patterson has mapped his way around the globe from sub-Antarctic islands to back- country bike trails on almost every continent. He recently returned home for an epic adventure: riding all 22 New Zealand Cycle Trails Great Rides to create a mobile app. The Great Rides App is the only mobile application for the trails and can be freely downloaded from the app stores. Follow Gary’s travels to inspire, plan and guide you on your own journey.

44 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz WEST COAST GREYMOUTH 42.4504° S, 171.2108° E

A GREAT RIDE – WHEELING THROUGH THE WILDERNESS

Riding among the giants (Credit: Jason Blair) facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 45 GREAT RIDES – WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

Riding high on the Greymouth loodwall (Credit: Nimmo Photography)

he West Coast Wilderness Trail is aptly named – in contrast My wilderness trail experience started at the northern trailhead, with to much of the country, the Coast still feels like a wild a brisk introduction to the local ‘barber’. He’s a particularly fearsome frontier with its whimsical weather, whiskery men and character and Greymouth residents tell me he cuts right to the bone! wildfoods festival. So when I heard about a 100+ kilometre However, this is no barber with a pair of scissors in hand but is in fact a cycle trail being built through the wilds, I was game to local wind; a unique phenomenon of cool katabatic air that oten lows Tgo oline, ride and grow some stubble along the way. I unravelled my down the mountains and along the Grey Valley. As the low squeezes map and plotted a course. between the narrow gap in the hills it accelerates to quite a blast. If the

A nicely framed shelter at the mouth of the Grey

46 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz Returning home safely over the Grey Bar a er a catch his memorial makes for solemn reading at the Grey Bar barber is operating, during the cooler months it’s worth warming up mouth of the Grey River. he trail hugs the shoreline, meandering its with a hot chocolate at a local café before setting of. way around the harbour where ishing boats shelter, before delivering he start of the trail begins on the stopbank beside the Grey River, just me at the river mouth. Here I sight the notorious Grey Bar where the above the train station, and many riders choose to take the TranzAlpine massive rolling Tasman Sea swells gather in a tumbling crescendo before train from Christchurch to arrive at the trailhead – which would be a spilling exhausted onto the beach. Watching those boats leave the shelter ine way to begin the adventure. For me, the adventure began when I of the harbour and take on these rolling giants is both a thrilling and powered up my three GPS units, the barber making itself known by terrifying sight. he vantage point is a must-visit, but I don’t linger long causing my ingers to tremble on the keypads. hen I was of, warming ater reading the numerous memorial plaques at the site – it is clear that up as I cycled past the massive dock shipping cranes towards the not all vessels return safely over the bar with their catch.

After your ride, make sure you visit the Westland Recreation Centre. The sports and recreation hub of Greymouth, the Westland Recreation Centre has something for everyone - swimming pools, hydroslides, spa, sauna, modern gym, group fitness classes and sports stadium.

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Bridges big and small, historic and modern (Credit: Jason Blair)

I ride on southward beside the coastline as the trail weaves its way through the lax. To the let are the forested foothills, to my right is the roaring surf break that pounds the pebbles on the shore. Despite he inest of hotels – the heatre Royal the surf spray mist hovering over the beach, I can Hotel (Credit: heatre Royal Hotel) see straight ahead in the distance the white peaks of our tallest mountains, some 150 kilometres away. Ater crossing of this section of the trail. Tonight I elect to stay across the road in the the Taramakau River bridge, the trail leads me inland on the former historic undertaker’s cottage. It’s the restored former home of the local alignment of a tramway and through a corridor of trees so tall my mortician who must have undertaken some challenging jobs given mouth drops in awe as I ride. Gobsmacked! Ater crossing a swinging the terrifying mining exploits, harrowing river crossings and health suspension bridge I reach the village of Kumara. epidemics of his day. As the accommodation website claims, the stay Kumara is a transformed town since when I last visited. It has shaken is a ‘rest in peace … in the dead centre of town’ – and rest I did; I wake of the image of a West Coast tumbleweed town, and is embracing its refreshed and ready for my next day of wilderness riding. heritage through stories and the renovated buildings which brim with Heading towards the main divide I cycle past two beautiful reservoirs vitality. he grandest of the establishments is the heatre Royal Hotel with calm waters that relect the Alps. I then come across some cyclists – the inest of stays and the best spot to quench your thirst at the end who have stopped for photos. hey seem to beckon me over with the

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West Coast wave – as they swat the pestering sandlies. hese foreigners are prepared with bulging panniers. I suspect their heavy load is for a multi-day journey beyond this trail. We ride together into the depths of the forest enjoying each other’s company and sharing tales of our ride so far. Like me they are loving the trail, and can’t believe how gentle, wide and smooth it is to ride. We follow the river and gradually climb to the Kawhaka Pass, more of a blip than a bump, that reaches 300 metres above the rolling swells of the Tasman Sea. From here our pace hastens as we follow the base of the hills and drop past Cowboys Paradise into the Arahura River catchment. I farewell my riding companions who decide to linger longer at the river, and I pedal past Milltown (most riders miss it) on my way to the Coast’s second-largest lake. On my arrival at Lake Kaniere it is picture perfect. his glacier-carved hollow is illed with fresh water and today has the most incredible relections of the podocarp forest along its shoreline. At the lake outlet the ride follows the historic Kaniere water Mananui sawmill site – heritage in motion race that was opened in the mid-1870s to provide a reliable water source for goldmining operations downstream. I can see the wooden ride towards the sea. At times I slow and let my eyes follow the white walls of the race trench, the original timber supplied from the Milltown bubbles negotiating the bends of the water race, much as a child watches sawmill – locally known at the time as ‘Sawdustville’. Milltown … a paper boat down a swirling watercourse. I love these moments, little Mill … oh, I get it! trail delighters. he reward of a trail experience is not necessarily I marvel at and relish the gentle bends of the water race, and follow located in the grandiose, but found by lapping up the multitude of its rich brown tannin-stained waters past foam loating in eddies as I minor moments that form a journey’s richness. here is synergy on this trail. Before long, like the lowing waters I’ve been following, I reach the Hokitika coastline which is known for its dritwood sculptures and wildfood festival. I could easily spend another day in ‘Hoki’ wandering around town or taking a trip out to Hokitika Gorge with Hokitika Scenic Tours, but I have to keep moving as there are trails to ride.

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he historic shipping cranes are truly massive Following the waterways was a magical time machinery marvels (Credit: Nimmo Photography)

Ater a restful sleep I turn on the GPS units again and pedal across historic context of local industry. Next I pass over a 300-metre wetland the Hokitika River bridge, a graceful span that takes me on to my next boardwalk and ride on to the alignment of the former Mananui timber section of this wilderness ride. When I reach the Mahinapua Creek I tramline. When I reach my next stop to stretch my legs I am pleased swap cruising on my bike for a boat ride, with the help of West Coast to ind that tree felling had not exhausted the woods. I have arrived at Scenic Waterways. heir trip takes us gently upstream around the bends the West Coast Treetop Walk, a commercial endeavour consisting of of the creek which is lined with the weeping branchlets of kahikatea several towering platforms linked by elevated boardwalks – the best way trees. his is nature at its best, with chattering calls of birdlife illing the to be at head height with the temperate rainforest giants. As if being 20 air and graceful movements of waterfowl on the lake. his is a real treat metres up in the crowns of kamahi and kahikatea trees is not suicient and a welcome respite from the saddle. Of the boat and back cruising I then climb to the top tower at twice the height. It’s a long way up. on my bike, I mark a waypoint upon reaching the rusting relics of the he lookout has views of the main divide and across the lake that I had former Mananui sawmill site. his is a fascinating place to appreciate the enjoyed only a couple of hours before by boat; a green cloak of forest he tower viewpoint above the treetops is magniicent (Credit: West he easiest way to appreciate the canopy tops (Credit: West Coast Treetop Walkway) Coast Treetop Walkway) hid the trail. he walk is a top spot to appreciate the forest before I get As always, I saved my trip data for the app, turned of the GPS units, grounded again and get my wheels back in motion. and relected on my journey. he West Coast Wilderness Trail is one I ride south where I connect onto the trail that now uses the former of the great multi-day rides in the wild frontier. It’s a delightful time railway line to the township of Ross. Unsurprisingly this section ofers away from modernity to immerse oneself in both nature and heritage. something diferent with straight lines that run parallel with the coast; However the trail is not about roughing it as there are plenty of ways the smooth surface is broken only by a truss bridge. Several kilometres to be treated at cafés and lodges in the townships near the trail. Few later, the irst bend in the line marks my arrival at the outskirts of other cycle trails can boast such a genuine taste of wilderness without Ross, the goldmining town and the southern trailhead. Near the trail a punishing efort or the feeling of going without. It’s a true western is a quirky holiday park on the beachfront; their up-cycled shipping gateway to easily go … wild on wheels. containers are modern apartment-like pods and appear to be a perfect stay at journey’s end. As for me, my wheels make their inal turns and I here are several bike outitters, transport operators and accommodation arrive at the Ross Information Centre and Museum beside the former providers servicing the West Coast Wilderness Trail, so it’s worth checking open-cast-pit mine, now turned lake. out the oicial trail website and the Great Rides App for more details >

Bridges big and small, historic and modern (Credit: Nimmo Photography) GREAT RIDES – WEST COAST WILDERNESS TRAIL

STATISTICS 132km, Easy (Grade 2) 1HƒEKCN.KPMUwww.westcoastwildernesstrail.co.nz/ Facebook – facebook.com/WestCoastWildernessTrail/ Video – youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=3YhxMjwWobA

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4 1. Twin Coast Cycle Trail Bay of Islands 2. Te Ara Ahi 3. Waikato River Trails Rotorua Taupo 6 7 4. Great Lake Trail 5. Motu Trails 8 Taupo Opotiki / Gisborne 9

6. Rimutaka Cycle Trail 10 Wellington 7. Queen Charlotte Track Blenheim 8. Tasman’s Great Taste Trail 10. St James Cycle Trail Nelson Hanmer Springs 9. Dun Mountain Trail 11 11. Queenstown Trail Nelson Queenstown 12 12. Around The Mountains Queenstown WEST COAST SOUTH ISLAND 4WD ADVENTURE 42°12’59.9”S 172°41’01.4”E Story Sheryl Bainbridge Photos N and S Bainbridge and NZ Adventures

RIVER DEEP, MOUNTAIN HIGH

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as mustering their stock. We’re on our second tour, ive days exploring previously unseen parts of the South Island’s west coast. A convoy of iteen vehicles, our group is made up of mostly rural people including farmers and contractors, but we’ve also got professional people among us and one intrepid lady driving on her own for what turns out to be her sixth trip. “I’ve been on some of the tours more than once,” she says, “but each time we do some things diferently and I meet a lot of nice people.” he ‘diferently’ she refers to could be due to weather conditions – one year it will be snowing somewhere but the following year it could be a blue- dome day – or the diference could be due to ground conditions when snow, slush or river levels may afect the route. hat’s when a plan B, C or even D might come into efect. hese are not tours where sitting around knitting is an option. Part of our irst day’s plan is a drive along the Molesworth and Rainbow station boundary, but due to heavy snow the preceding week there’s no Our trip starts through magniicent scenery guarantee that we’ll get there, although the previous evening Robbie drove the 80km up in the hills to have a look, joking that he’s ofered the obbie Crickett, who with his wife Connie runs NZ roading contractors performance-related beer if we make it through. Adventures tours, tells it how it is. If he says the road is Molesworth is made up of four stations, all abandoned in the 1930s steep, then it’s steep. If he calls it rough, women soon when wool prices dropped signiicantly and the rabbit population ind out why; in the pre-tour information provided, it increased beyond the resources of the landowners to control. he last was suggested that we bring along support underwear. straw for one of them, St Helens station, came in 1936 when a huge RBut the fact that people return again and again to NZ Adventures percentage of the sheep lock was lost in severe snow. To develop the tours speaks for itself. hey’re extremely well organised, well run and Hanmer Springs exotic forest, the government of the day appropriated a whole heap of fun. thousands of hectares of land needed for winter grazing, leaving the It’s the last trip of the 2017/18 season. Soon the weather will change sheep without enough food and shelter in the high country. Nowadays, for the worse, rivers will rise, and the big stations are locking their gates Molesworth is a cattle farm, but it only grazes half the number of stock to tourists for the winter period as they get on with essential work such carried in 1940.

54 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz A hanging valley on a snow-capped mountain. he dark line to the right of it is a waterfall

We let Hanmer Springs in brilliant sunshine. he route we’re travelling it is, and ater some time we emerge at Dip Flat. In the days of the includes the 78,000 hectare St James conservation area purchased by Internal Afairs Department, Dip Flat was used as a training camp for Helen Clarke’s government, initially driving beside the long rabbit-proof deer cullers, and one of those men was a young Barry Crump. Robbie fence. It’s not a historic route, having been put in when the power pylons says that if you read A Good Keen Man and Hang on a Minute Mate, were installed, but the snowy mountains, rivers and wide tussock-covered it’s possible to recognise Dip Flat as one of the places he writes about. plains make it amongst the most scenic in the country. Organisations such as Search and Rescue and the military still use the Before we descend a steep, winding road into the Mailing valley for camp for training purposes. morning tea, Robbie points to what is called a hanging valley. It’s in the snow and has a lake at its rear that was let behind by glaciation. He explains that the dark vertical area to one side is a waterfall. He also identiies several native plants including the silver-grey mountain astelia, and informs us that matagouri, a prickly plant that I wouldn’t have thought had any use at all, is the only native that ixes nitrogen into the soil. Ater lunch at Lake Tennyson, it’s up and over the Island Saddle, said to be the country’s highest publicly accessible land. We travel on through Rainbow Farms, a Crown-lease property that levies a toll on the road. Robbie advised the farm manager that we’re coming through but has not been required to pay the toll until that evening because of uncertainty about whether the road is actually passable. Luckily Lake Rotoiti

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he old commercial stables building in Autumn colour at Murchison Murchison has a new life with old treasures

At Lake Rotoiti, just out of St Arnaud village, we stop on the jetty to reserves, has been subject to oil and gas exploration and we’re in to watch dozens of large black and obviously well-fed eels compete with Murchison where we stay for the next two nights and get a chance to avaricious ducks for food scraps thrown by tourists. Lake Rotoiti is in a do some washing! very scenic location and feeding the eels is clearly an added attraction. It’s a miserable next day with the deciduous trees’ magniicent autumn Next it’s over the Porika track where the Glenhope Reserve has been colour being the only bright thing about it. Just outside Murchison is designated a gold-fossicking area and permits are not required, but even one of the earliest power generation sites in the South Island. Six Mile with four-wheel drive you’d need to have a good sense of adventure. was operated from 1922 to 1975, and it’s surprisingly compact. On It’s seven kilometres to the summit so presumably the same down the the interpretive signage outside there is a picture of what looks to be other side, and a couple of the corners are tight.Part way down there a house standing in the devastated landscape that resulted from the are some great views over Lake Rotoroa. We head along the Braeburn 1929 Murchison earthquake, but it’s actually the top storey of another track and through the Mangles Valley which, due to the size of the house that was pushed into that position by the force of the quake. Further along the road we stop at Horse Terrace, a narrow gorge where

Early power station at Unique picnic spot but you have to cross Murchison the Buller swing-bridge to get there Water rushes through a narrow gorge on the Matakitaki River the turbulent water of the Matakitaki River is pushed through towards he old commercial the Buller. While the plan had been to cross back and forth over the stables building in Glenroy River several times, bad weather the previous week meant Murchison has a new life with old treasures that the river was still too high for a safe crossing. Instead, we travelled another winding seven kilometres to the Maruia saddle peak, and down the other side to nearby Maruia Falls. Sited of State Highway 63, the falls are a popular tourist attraction, and were in full spate due to the recent rain. But someone needs to do something about the disgusting toilet. Ater lunch and some time at the Buller swing-bridge area, it was back to Murchison. Robbie’s disappointed that we couldn’t do the planned river crossings, but the river’s too fast, high and dirty to see any potential hazards. In Murchison’s old commercial stables building we were intrigued to see a gig for sale. he heart-matai building, erected in 1890, survived the 1929 Murchison earthquake and was used as emergency accommodation for those that had lost their homes, but now has a new life as Dust & Rust, selling vintage and collectables. Its current owner, Katharina Erdl, and her Kiwi partner have lived in Murchison for eight years and have owned the secondhand business since 2014. Katharina said they have always been interested in collecting old things, and there’s certainly an eclectic selection inside. Very diferent and well worth a look. Usually the tour follows the pylon road near Iron Bridge on the state highway just past Inangahua, ending at Denniston, but next day the weather’s had an impact once again and crossing the Mackley River is not going to happen today. We’ve stopped at a memorial that recognises homas Brunner and his Māori companions who walked for 550 days through extremely rugged country on a journey of discovery. Brunner, who prior to his epic trip did some exploring with Charles Heaphy, was also the irst to ind coal in the area, and of course the Brunner Mine bears his name, as does Lake Brunner and homas Brunner Drive near Greymouth. Brunner was only a young man at the time and must have had a great sense of adventure. Maruia Falls – beautiful site but the toilet needs attention facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 57 4WD ADVENTURE

A bevy of Bedfords

A little further along the highway we reach Lyell, once a town of there’s always Plan B, and we’re of up the highway, past Uranium Point, some 3000 people, but the buildings, constructed mainly of beech, have a place that he informs us is where signiicant deposits of uranium have returned to the land leaving only a small, sad cemetery on a wooded been found, to the Denniston Plateau, where we spend the next few hillside. Where the town previously stood is now the starting point of the hours roughing it over some very interesting tracks. he bush we’re popular Old Ghost Road, and that evening, Barry Johnston, the ‘restless travelling through is mainly regenerating beech. In the days when retired sharebroker’ who accompanied Peter Williams to Siberia Valley the plateau was being substantially mined, there were two disparate (NZToday issue 79), tells us about his experiences on the Ghost route. communities, Denniston and Burnetts Face, and trees were felled to Robbie’s determined that if we can’t get to Denniston by one route, build houses and construct mine tunnels. Robbie tells us that the owners

Autumn colours at their best in Ree on

58 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz he kettle’s on at the Bearded Mining Company Bearded miner Mark with a gold nugget of the two working open-face coal mines on the plateau are using old Author Jenny Pattrick’s best-sellers would have singlehandedly mine maps to determine where seams of coal might be, and are inding done more to promote Denniston than any tourist organisation in the them remarkably accurate. As we drive through rocky cuttings we see country. The Denniston Rose and its sequel Heart of Coal, although several good-sized coal seams. For many, many years there was an area fiction, demonstrate very clearly how harsh life on the Plateau could where coal burnt underground, like the natural lames near Murchison, be in the 1800s. Those books attracted a huge readership as well as but the Denniston lames seem to have been extinguished. It’s understood many visitors to the old mine site. Jenny Pattrick must be pleased that the whole plateau is an uplit from a long-ago earthquake and and perhaps honoured to know that the DOC signposts at the although rich in high quality coal, it’s a bleak, desolate place on the mine site each carry a heart and rose logo. I was impressed to see day we drive through. here’s thick cloud and a mini-gale going on that acknowledgement. It’s also possible to buy from the Westport at Mt Rochfort, which at about 1030t above sea level is the highest i-Site, a DVD on Denniston as a working mine. It clearly shows point on the plateau, so although the view’s apparently magniicent that health and safety was not much of a priority, but it makes most on a good day, we don’t see anything at all from that high point. interesting viewing.

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Paul homas tells us about goldmining history in Ree on Start of the road (track) to Big River gold mine

We leave Westport at the start of day four, and travel through Inangahua tour groups and school groups how miners used to live. Pete proudly towards Reeton, Robbie pointing out New Zealand’s newest national shows me the NZ Man Cave book, where he features on page 100, park, the Paparoa Ranges which includes Pike River. About twenty and tells me that Allan Dick has called in on more than one occasion. minutes north of Reeton there’s a line-up of old Bedfords at a hillside Proceeds received are donated to local charities and clubs. property on the roadside and we wonder if there’s a particular reason At the i-Site, Paul homas, a local doer of good, who is kind enough for this, or whether the property owner just likes the look of them. to share of his time, knowledge and passion, takes us into a replica mine, Reeton’s renowned as the irst town in the country to have its street and gives us a fascinating talk on Reeton’s history and the way the old lights lit by reticulated electricity, and has a glittering golden history. mine site is progressively being rehabilitated with plantings. I can’t help It’s made particularly attractive today by the vibrant autumn colours noticing that there’s an intention to construct a distillery at the back of of the deciduous trees on the hillside behind the town. the i-Site. It will feature ‘Little Biddy’ gin and ‘Moonlight Creek’ whisky, here’s a bit of spare time before we meet at what Robbie considers both named ater old-time characters. Watch this space! A cuppa at a to be one of the best i-Sites there is, so there’s time for a brief visit to local park and it’s of to Big River mine. Love or loathe the Department the Bearded Mining Company. In a replica mining hut built by Rotary of Conservation, when it moves to protect our built heritage it does a thirty years ago, it’s been running voluntarily for seventeen years now, damn ine job, and the reconstructed shed that contains the winding and although Jefrey has passed on, originals Gavin, Pete and Mark show gear from the mine (that ceased operation in 1942), and the restored twelve-metre poppet head, one of only two let in the country, are examples of this protection. No other organisation has the resources to ensure that our precious history is available for present and future generations to understand how people once lived and worked, although in this case, you need a four-wheel drive, a bike, or good, strong legs.

Looking down on the reconstructed building from the poppet head, and the poppet head Early morning Ree on 4WD ADVENTURE

Ready for of! Very slowly, one at a time!

It seems like a long way in to the Big River site and driving in and out modiied by land movement and by human endeavour, earthquakes and takes the rest of the day. mining being the most drastic, but the land has a way of reclaiming its Leaving Reefton on the fifth and final day of our tour, we drive own. It was thought for example, that when a slip blocked the Buller to Ahura and turn east, past sphagnum moss drying sheds towards River at the time of the 1968 Inangahua earthquake, water would dam a property where owners Robyn and Malcolm live of the grid on a behind it and inundate Westport. hat didn’t happen. Water found property with a whole lot of history including a water deviation tunnel a way through and is lowing again, albeit on a somewhat diferent from its mining past. It’s not a generous it, but we walk through this route. Time ater time we’ve come across places where there’s little and 100-metre tunnel, noticing the threads of glow worms hanging from sometimes nothing to show where mines and buildings once stood, or the ceiling, as well as several small cave weta. Robbie had mentioned communities where thousands of people once lived. It’s also interesting at dinner the previous evening that the tunnel may contain creatures, to learn that the resources are still there – gold, coal and gas are still and Connie’s suggestion that they may be ‘Cricketts’ earned her the underground, and sphagnum moss still grows, but it needs a rise in threat of yet another written warning to add to the hundreds that she’s commodity prices and people willing to work in these areas before received in the past. On learning that she must write her own warnings, there’ll be any change. and fuelled by bonhomie and pinot noir, dinner conversation rapidly But the good thing about tours like ours is that they bring history degenerates into farce. to life and give everyone a greater appreciation of what we’ve got in Ater a walk up the hill to a beautiful rock formation hidden in the scenery that knocks your socks of, away from traditional tourist routes, bush, that Robyn calls ‘the cathedral’, we enjoy delicious scones with while all the time we’re enjoying new and varied experiences, making cream and jam – well half a scone in my case due to an opportunistic new friends, and most of all, having a ball! black cat. Our aim to visit the Napoleon Hill cemetery – all that’s let of yet another once-thriving gold mining town – followed by a steep descent to two tunnels is once again thwarted by the state of the river. Going through the tunnels is one of the most anticipated experiences of the trip, so plan B or C swings into action and we have a very rocky drive up the Noble River to the tunnels that were hewn out of rock to divert the stream for goldmining purposes. A recce by Robbie makes it clear that only one tunnel can be safely accessed as there’s nowhere to turn around at the second tunnel. he tunnels are not that much wider than a vehicle but with care can be negotiated safely, and it’s a pretty special feeling to know that we are some of the relatively few people lucky enough to enjoy this experience. Places we’ve been to in the past ive days have over time been radically

Where the water’s stained with tannin from fallen beech leaves Towards the cathedral

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WHANGANUI INLET REMOTE, UNTOUCHED AND NATURAL

This coast still feels like a wild frontier with its whimsical weather, be-whiskered men and wild foods festival, Gary tackles this 100+ km cycle trail

View from the top of Knuckle Hill (506m), looking south

66 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz TASMAN WHANGANUI INLET, KNUCKLE HILL 40°34’31.9”S 172°37’36.3”E

s a destination, Golden Bay has some very well-known attractions like the Abel Tasman National Park, Pupu Springs and Wharariki Beach; Whanganui Inlet is less well known but is well worth a visit nevertheless. The drive from Takaka to Wharariki is pretty Aspectacular in itself, so perhaps people can be forgiven for not seeing, let alone exploring, the turn-of at Pakawau. If they followed this road, they’d ind a large untouched estuary, wild Kahurangi coast shorelines and remote bush-clad ranges. But the icing on the cake comes in the form of an easy half-day walk that takes you to the top of the highest point in the area.

facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 67 WHANGANUI INLET

View of Whanganui Inlet, looking south at low tide

Whanganui Inlet is huge at 2744ha. At high tide it is completely covered fantastic areas for a few of the rarer species to thrive in. During my in water, but at low tide it drains completely, exposing vast tidal sand time spent in and around the inlet, I’ve seen (and photographed) mātātā lats and channels. he amazing feature of this area is that the intertidal (fernbirds) in several locations, bitterns on numerous occasions, koitareke vegetation and habitat is virtually intact, free from any degradation, (marsh crake) and, outside the breeding season, kōtuku (white heron) natural or human. It’s the least-modiied estuary in New Zealand, and sightings are fairly regular. In fact, a drive along Dry Road (which hugs the resulting rich biodiversity enables marine and freshwater ish to the eastern side of the inlet) on any given day can reveal anywhere up thrive, as well as being a haven for a variety of birdlife. to half-a-dozen kōtuku. he value of this natural environment was nationally recognised with the implementation of the Westhaven Marine Reserve in 1994 KNUCKLE HILL WALK that covers 536ha in the south-western corner of the inlet. he reserve You could easily spend a good half-day cruising around Whanganui Inlet totally protects all plant and animals, with no fishing, hunting or taking in all the natural landscapes, birdlife and estuary environments. shooting permitted, all of which beneits the ish, shellish and birdlife If you feel like stretching the legs, then the Knuckle Hill walk would it that exist in the area. the bill just ine. he track is relatively short at just 5km (each way), is he rest of the inlet has been classed as a wildlife management reserve, easy walking and has no strenuous steep climbs. which means that ishing and game-bird hunting are allowed, but all he start of the track is just 20km non-stop drive along Dry Road other plants and animals are protected. from the Pakawau turn of; however, taking several hours with several From a birdlife point of view, the inlet and surrounding swampy stops along the way will ensure you get a full appreciation of this wetlands provide an ideal habitat. As these areas get little attention unique ecosystem. or disruption from the relatively low number of visitors, they become As Dry Road leaves the estuary at the southern end, it climbs to a

WHANGANUI INLET AT A GLANCE From Collingwood, drive north for 14km to Pakawau Bush Road turnoff, just past Pakawau. Turn left onto Pakawau Bush Road and continue on for 5.5km to reach the northern end of the inlet. Birdlife to see: MɢVWMW YJKVGJGTQP DKVVGTPOȠVȠVȠ HGTPDKTF RQCMC RKGFUVKNV YJKVG HCEGFJGTQPXCTKGV[QHUJCIURʀVCPIKVCPIK RCTCFKUGUJGNFWEM Tips: Make plenty of stops while driving around the inlet to explore and take photos. Ű-GGRCMGGPG[GQWVHQTDKVVGTPUKPVJGTGGFCPFTCWRQUYCORUCPF OȠVȠVȠKPVJGUETWD An unusually conident mātātā (fernbird). hese Ű6CMGPQVGQHNCMGNGXGNCHVGTTGEGPVTCKPUŤVJGVTCEMOC[DGKORCUUCDNG little scrub dwellers rarely come out into the open

68 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz KNUCKLE HILL AT A GLANCE From Collingwood, drive north for 14km to the Pakawau Bush Road turnoff, just past Pakawau. Turn left onto Pakawau Bush Road and continue on for 20km to reach the saddle where the track starts. Birdlife to see: OȠVȠVȠ HGTPDKTF ŤKPUETWDPGCTVQRQHJKNNVʀɆMGTGTʀ YQQFRKIGQP  MQTKOCMQ DGNNDKTF RɆYCMCYCMC HCPVCKN OKTQOKTQ VQOVKV YGMCTKTQTKTQ ITG[YCTDNGT Tips: Ű'PLQ[HNQYGTKPIUQWVJGTPTCVCDGVYGGP&GEGODGTCPF(GDTWCT[ Ű&GƒPKVGN[VCMG[QWTECOGTCHQTVJGUVWPPKPIRCPQTCOKEXKGYUHTQO Knuckle Hill. A rare and very secretive bittern photographed in one of Ű-GGR[QWTG[GQWVHQTYKNFIQCVUQPCPFCTQWPFVJGVTCEM the large swampy wetlands surrounding Whanganui Inlet saddle where the start of the track is signposted on the let. A short times, making underfoot conditions quite slippery in places, but there 500-metre drive along a gravelled bush road takes you to the carpark are plenty of solid footholds and steps recessed into the earth for good where the actual foot track begins. solid foot placement. Just a few minutes along from the clearing, the trail Initially, the track meanders along an old logging road through breaks out into stunted subalpine-type scrub, short lax, and low sedge regenerating scrub as it very gently gains height, but it soon breaks into ields which allow uninterrupted panoramic views of the surrounding mature native bush. he gradient of the trail is consistently gentle for a country – but the best is yet to come. full hour or so, ater which it suddenly breaks out onto a large clearing. Twenty minutes of steady climbing inally puts you at the top of his is an ideal spacious spot for a break, a bite to eat or perhaps just Knuckle Hill. As you slowly peel over the horizon-line at the top, a few minutes to sit back and relax. complete 360-degree views open up before you. he summit is 506 On the left of the clearing is an obvious sidetrack with a small metres above sea level, which in reality is not all that high, but the fact sign indicating Knuckle Hill. From this point to the top of Knuckle that it’s the highest point for miles around means that the panoramic Hill, takes another 20 to 30 minutes, though the track does become vistas are vast and far reaching. somewhat steeper and narrower. he last portion of track winds its From the top you get to see the whole of Whanganui Inlet giving way up a prominent spur, and the ground is quite swampy and wet at a much better idea of the scale and just how large the estuary is.

Knuckle Hill as seen from a point halfway up the track WHANGANUI INLET

Cape Farewell can be seen to the north, and swinging round to the south shows endless sights of the bush and trees of Kahurangi National Park. In a nutshell, you get to see a very good chunk of the top of the South Island. If you happen to be doing this walk between December and February, the southern rata trees should be in lower. A mature southern rata stands up to 15-metres tall and when large numbers of them are concentrated on a hillside, the bright-red lowering canopies are a magniicent sight. Another thing to look out for are mātātā amongst the tight scrub and lax leading up to Knuckle Hill. I have seen (and heard) several of these shy little birds on a couple of occasions. he area also has a small population of wild goats. A friend and I had a very funny encounter on my last trip to Knuckle Hill. On the irst lower section of track, my friend was walking about 10 metres ahead of me when I happened to look up and see a young billy on the side of the trail, head buried in long grass. My friend hadn’t seen it (I still don’t know how she didn’t) even though it was a mere three metres from her. Rather than shout out, knowing full well that it would spook, I bit my lip and let things unfold. Walking on, my friend literally bumped into the goat – I don’t know who got the bigger fright, but from my perspective, it was hilarious. he return trip is simply retracing your footsteps back down the track, the way you went up. Because the walk is so gentle and relatively easy, the 11km round trip should take around three hours (not taking into account time spent at the summit).

OTHER HIGHLIGHTS If time permits or you have another day to ill in, there are another couple of places that are well worth visiting. Kaihoka lakes are two lovely little lakes at the northern end of Whanganui Inlet. he lakes were originally formed by wind-induced Another view from the top of Knuckle Hill shiting sand dunes and have no in- or out-low meaning that their levels

he wild and remote Kahurangi coast

70 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz he Kahurangi Coast is well known for strong winds – trees oten grow sideways instead of upwards

are determined by rainfall and ground seepage. Both lakes are within a before the river mouth) is steeped in timber-milling and coal-mining small DOC reserve that helps ensure the native bush surrounding them history and if you need a cofee, the Nugget café will certainly oblige. will be forever protected. Much of the reserve is made up of dense nīkau palm groves giving a very tropical feel as you walk the track linking the two lakes. Mataī, kahikatea, cedar and tanekaha trees are predominant in other areas of the reserve. he lakes are situated 6km along Kaihoka Lakes Road that turns of Pakawau Bush Road just before reaching Whanganui Inlet. here is a carpark and picnic area at the start of the 15-minute walking track that begins at the irst lake then sidles through the bush to the second more-western lake. Once again, if time allows or you have that extra day, think about driving further along Dry Road to the Paturau river mouth giving you direct access to the wild Kahurangi coast. Towering limestone blufs and outcrops, funky rock formations, nīkau palm forests, beach access, whitebaiting and even the possibility of inding some pāua at low tide are A lone southern rata displays its all reasons to make this drive. he tiny settlement at Mangarakau (6km beautiful red lowers above the canopy

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To learn about the Supporter for Life bequest program and how your gift will help save future generations, please phone (09) 950 7222 or visit us at rescuehelicopter.org.nz/bequests Saving Future Generations PACIFIC OCEAN CHATHAM ISLANDS CHATHAM ISLANDS Story Sheryl Bainbridge Photos Neill Bainbridge and as credited 44°01’07.0”S 176°35’06.6”W

TSUNAMI AT  SOUTH CHATHAM ISLANDS THEN AND NOW

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facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 73 CHATHAM ISLANDS

nsurprisingly, one of the major threats to a small group of islands east of New Zealand is that of a tsunami. At 1am on August 15, 1868, tsunami waves generated the previous day by an earthquake ofshore from Arica, Peru – some as high as six metres, nearly the height of Ua two-storey house – smashed into the Chatham Islands. he Arica earthquake, estimated at about 8.5–9.0 magnitude, saw the Chathams subjected to devastating tidal waves that swept up to 6.4 kilometres inland leaving death and destruction in their wake. Believed to be the only fatal tsunami recorded in historic times, this Remnant of a European house at was one of the irst such events in New Zealand to be documented in Tupuangi destroyed by the 1868 tsunami detail. hree destructive waves within an hour caused havoc as noted – photo K-L homas GNS Science in a report from the Hawkes Bay Herald on September 12, 1868: “… he third wave, which came rolling in with most awful grandeur and a large house, woolshed, dip and farm buildings, was carried out to sea. thousand-fold power, bearing down outbuildings and stout old akeakes, Another house about 6.5 kilometres from Tupuangi, belonging to Captain which broke and cracked beneath its fury like matchwood, carrying away Anderson, was also completely washed away. young cattle, and scattering the debris of the ruins far away …” “he largest waves arrived in Waitangi between 1–2am. he waves GNS Science Risk Specialist Kristie-Lee homas reports that the entire wrapped around Tikitiki Hill and surged up Mangatukarewa (Nairn River), Chatham Island coastline was afected by the 1868 tsunami. She says: destroying a new bridge and overtopping the river banks, damaging nearby “Tupuangi, Te Raki and Waitangi West sufered the greatest impact. he houses and the Waitangi Pā. George Selwood was woken as water rushed entire kainga (Māori settlement) at Tupuangi, where around 70 people through his store and various objects, including the counter, barricaded lived, was destroyed. Whare were smashed to pieces and vegetation was the doors. he family escaped through a window and retreated to the cleared leaving only sand, boulders and seaweed. hree whanau were army barracks. Mr Beamish’s accommodation house was lited of its washed away with their whare and drowned. hose who survived ran bearers and a large stone chimney fell. His own house did not fare much to Maunganui and gathered at the old pā site but were let with nothing. better. Waitangi Beach was a disheartening sight aterwards, covered he once lourishing settlement was abandoned, and many returned to in seaweed and the remnants of peoples’ homes and stores. he recent Taranaki soon ater. wreck of the Florence, previously embedded in sand, was washed high “At Waitangi West, a man named Makere drowned while trying to save and dry up on the bank. a ishing boat between waves. At Te Raki, Mr Hay’s homestead, including “Owenga also sufered. Whare 10 metres above high tide were looded,

View of Tupuangi, situated along the point, looking from Maunganui where survivors of the village ran to safety – photo K-L homas GNS Science

74 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz SOME TSUNAMI FACTS 6JGVUWPCOKJKVYKVJQWVYCTPKPI6QFC[VJG2CEKƒE Tsunami Warning Centre in Hawaii operates tsunami DART (Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunamis) buoys that constantly record water pressure VKOGURGTUGEQPF CPFUGCNGXGNUCTQWPFVJG2CEKƒE so scientists know something is on its way from across VJG2CEKƒE1EGCP6UWPCOKYCTPKPIUHQTFKUVCPVUQWTEGU (>3 hours travel time away, e.g. South America, Canada, Alaska, Japan) and regional sources (1–3 hours travel time away, e.g. Tonga) are broadcast by radio, TV, internet and social media, telephone calls and sirens. You can do your bit by spreading the word to family and friends. Tsunamis can also come from nearby local sources (e.g. the Hikurangi Subduction Zone offshore eastern North Island, the Puysegur Trench below Fiordland or the Alpine Fault). If you are near the coast and: feel a long weak earthquake that goes for more than a minute, or feel an earthquake so strong it is hard to stand up, or see the sea behaving strangely, rising or falling suddenly or making loud roaring noises, you should quickly get to higher ground or inland. Chatham Islanders gathered at Waitangi West during the How high or far? Check out the tsunami evacuation memorial event to remember those who lost their lives at this \QPGUCVVJGGOGTIGPE[OCPCIGOGPVQHƒEGCV[QWTNQECN location and nearby at Tupuangi – photo K-L homas GNS Science EQWPEKN+H[QWTGEGKXGCPQHƒEKCNVUWPCOKYCTPKPI[QW will be told which zones to evacuate, based on how big and ive whaling ships were washed away. Sand dunes along the northern and eastern scientists think the tsunami is likely to be when it arrives. sides of the island were eroded away, and the tsunami also eroded beaches and dunes It’s handy to know where these evacuation zones are at Pitt Island.” DGHQTG[QWPGGFVJGOTCVJGTVJCPVT[KPIVQƒPFQWVKP It’s thought that up to 20 lives were lost during the event, which this year, 150 years the middle of the night when you’ve been woken by an later, was commemorated when a group of scientists joined residents in a memorial earthquake. ceremony including a formal blessing at Chatham Island’s Waitangi West Beach. GNS If you live or work in an evacuation zone, it is a good Science scientist Dr Hamish Campbell said the memorial was about acknowledging idea to have a go-kit ready. This can include: water and Paciic-wide devastation. PQPRGTKUJCDNGHQQFYCTOENQVJKPIDNCPMGVƒTUVCKFMKV “Spare a thought for our neighbours in South America, Peru and Chile – they lost radio, torch, spare batteries, sentimental items (like old an estimated 25,000 lives,” he said. Dr Campbell hopes the event will remind Kiwis photos), loo paper, baby wipes, handy towels, a tarp or to be vigilant if a natural hazard strikes, as New Zealand is particularly vulnerable. camping gear, something to keep kids entertained, cash, “We are prone to such events emanating from big earthquakes impacting on the hunting knife, and pet necessities such as food. And even ocean loor of the coast of South America,” he said. “he purpose of the memorial if you don’t live in a zone, it’s a good idea to have supplies event is to raise public awareness and promote educational opportunities about the to support friends and family or in case water, transport, major natural hazards – earthquakes, tsunamis, volcanism, landslides, and extreme electricity and fuel networks are impacted during a weather – and how society can become more resilient and co-exist with them.” tsunami. A group of scientists from GNS Science (Kristie-Lee homas, Dr Hamish Campbell, A tsunami is series of waves produced by disruption to Prof David Johnston, Lucy Carter and Emily Campbell) visited the area the week of a body of water (they can occur in lakes as well as in the the anniversary to memorialise the event alongside the Chatham Islands Emergency sea!). This disruption could be an earthquake causing Management Oice. the seafloor to move, a powerful volcanic eruption, a Kristie-Lee homas says that on August 14 about 35 Chatham Islanders including submarine landslide or the impact of a large meteorite. Kaingaroa School pupils gathered at the Emergency Operations Centre for a morning Tsunamis travel across the open ocean at great speeds brieing before everyone jumped on the bus. (more than 800 kilometres per hour), and as tsunami At 10.15am the bus stopped, and we acknowledged the massive earthquake that waves near the shore they slow down (wavelength struck 150 years ago at that exact moment and held a minute’s silence for the 25,000 shortens) and bunch up (wave-height increases), people in Arica who lost their lives as a result of the earthquake and the tsunami resulting in a series of powerful surges which can run up which soon arrived at their coastline. he bus then carried on – as the tsunami would on land causing widespread inundation and destruction. have begun to make its way across the Paciic. Tsunamis have wavelengths that are typically between When we arrived at Waitangi West beach, stories were told of the impacts the 10 and 200 kilometres in magnitude. A tidal wave, on the tsunami had around the island. hen a karakia was said to farewell those who lost other hand is caused by the gravitational interactions their lives at Tupuangi and Waitangi West, as well as to acknowledge the opportunity between the sun, moon, and earth and it travels at up to we now have to utilise knowledge of these past events to protect the living. 1200 kilometres per hour with a wavelength of the order he bus then returned to the Emergency Operations Centre to share some kai and of 10,000 kilometres! a talk about tsunami warnings, evacuation zones and preparedness. facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 75 CHATHAM ISLANDS

Mangere and Rangitira Islands, last bastion of the black robin

To top of the day, the scientists then visited Te One School to explain 45 minutes ahead of the time on the mainland. he international date what tsunamis are, where they come from, to share stories of the 1868 line kinks around the Chathams, which not only keeps the islands in tsunami and explain how the children and their whanau can be ready. the same day as the rest of New Zealand but makes them the irst place Tsunamis are always something to consider in the Chatham Islands, in the world to see the sun. but on the other hand, being further away from the Pacific Plate Our hostess adds that we might as well turn phones of too, as there’s boundary than most places in New Zealand, they should be safer from no mobile coverage on the Chathams – but there is limited internet earthquakes. he islands’ history, geology, culture, lora and fauna are access and a phone is available at the hotel. unique, and include distinctive Moriori art, which can still be seen on We were part of an excursion led by geologists Dr Hamish Campbell petroglyphs (rock engravings) and dendroglyphs (tree carvings). he and Chris Adams, and headed for Chatham Island (Rekohu) itself, one parea, or native pigeon, larger than the kereru, grazes on grass as well of the only two inhabited islands in the 10-island group. Chatham Island as in the bush; the luxuriant growth of the leshy Chatham Islands has the ive main settlements of Waitangi, Kaingaroa, Te One, Port Hutt forget-me-nots are the envy of gardeners everywhere, and the diverse and Owenga. Pitt Island is the other inhabited island. All up, there’s geology, actually created by upliting and volcanism, is rationalised in a population of about 650 people. Moriori are the Chatham Islands’ the words of a local farmer on an interpretive sign: “God must have indigenous people, and members of the Māori Ngāti Mutunga tribe made the Chathams last. He had a wheelbarrow full of everything let have also made the island their home. Many of the islands’ residents over and he used them up here.” And then there’s the seafood … are descended from both these peoples, although the last full-blooded The 800km flight from Wellington takes about an hour and 45 Moriori, Tommy Solomon, died in 1933. While the Chathams group has minutes. During the light, the friendly hostess recommends that we oicially been part of New Zealand since 1842, it’s interesting to hear move our watches forward so that we’re on Chathams’ time, which is today that islanders going ofshore say they’re ‘going to New Zealand’.

Parea or Chatham Islands pigeon Chatham Islands forget-me-not

76 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz Kristie-Lee homas talking to Te One School pupils about the 1868 tsunami and how they can be ready and prepared for future tsunami – photo K-L homas GNS Science

Possibly they consider the Chathams to be the mainland! he Chathams group is at latitude 44S, and includes the Forty-Fours, a group of islands about 50km further east, that mark the easternmost point of New Zealand. Like many of the islands, the Forty-Fours are an important breeding colony for rare birds. Mangere and Rangatira (South East) Islands of Pitt Island are home to the Chatham Islands black robin, a bird that was literally brought back from the brink of extinction. A committed conservation and fostering programme meant that the black robin population increased from only ive birds let in the world in 1980 to a stable 250 population today. It’s unlikely that most of us will ever see a black robin, but it’s good to know they’re still around. While the island group is administered by the smallest of New Zealand’s 67 territorial authorities, it has sui generis status which means ‘of its own Statue of Tommy kind’ – another point of uniqueness. Basically, the council acts like a Solomon, the unitary authority, performing all the area’s local government functions last full-blooded Moriori such as roading infrastructure, a sustainable water supply, emergency management and other tasks, and supports an economy that is largely dependent on ishing, conservation, tourism and farming. disposal, including that of dead vehicles and ishing paraphernalia, Most of the roads are unsealed but a trip to the Chathams is not really and the need to go ofshore to pursue higher education. But ishing like going back in time. Despite the fact that some old bangers are clearly and tourism provide good returns, and trips to the mainland during a stranger to warrant-of-itness requirements, there are several new the ski season are not unheard of. vehicles on the road. While there’s a sense of remoteness from the rest In 1999, as part of a project to welcome in the new millennium, of the country, in reality everything’s available to the islanders, despite Neill and I were instrumental in acquiring the Far North’s millennium higher transport costs. Hotel Chathams’ well-appointed rooms have an ‘Southern Cross’ touchstone from a property near the Whangaroa ensuite and for our tour the excellent meals included blue cod, swans Harbour. he piece of petriied wood accompanied 70–80-million- egg pavlova and an exceptional breakfast muesli … here’s a hospital, year-old basalt from the Chatham Islands, greenstone from Westland a general store, a hardware store, a crat shop, post oice, café, and a and granite from Southland on a tour of the country. hese stones from small but very interesting museum. Generally, it feels like a very secure north, south, east and west were touched by 230,000 children who made and comfortable environment. individual wishes for the new millennium. On December 31, 1999, the Some of the diiculties that the communities face involve rubbish touchstones farewelled the old millennium from the western clifs of

Southern Cross millennium touchstone – Chatham Islands basalt All needs catered for facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 77 CHATHAM ISLANDS

Looking for fossilised sharks’ teeth, Te Whanga lagoon Sea elephant

Pa Kari Kari (Red Bluf) on the Chatham Islands, and on January 1, bread and superb paua patties, we walked these of with a hike past the 2000 the stones heralded the sunrise of the millennium at Rangaika Catholic ‘Our Lady of the Antipodes’ church and skittish Pitt Island on the south-western side of the Chathams. Later that day, the stones, sheep, over the hill towards Waihere Bay. Clear blue skies, white sand which had been cut in half, were presented to the nation and are now beaches, swathes of dafodils marking a place where a house once stood, permanently housed in Te Papa. he other halves of the stones were the sight of a giant petrel, and Mangere and Rangatira (South East) returned to their place of origin. So it was great to see the polygon stone Islands standing tall across the waves made for a perfect day. To cap it displayed at the Chathams Island airport (the Far North touchstone is of, the light back in the little plane revealed the tall clifs and waterfalls in Kaeo’s Whangaroa County Museum and Archives). On our way to of southern Chatham Island that we would not otherwise have seen. the Hotel Chatham at Waitangi, where we stayed for the duration of he following day took a diferent direction, and the gardeners among our trip, we stopped at Red Bluf for the views. us enjoyed a visit to Admiral Farm. Owned by Val and Lois Croon, the A dominant feature of Chatham Islands is the 16,000+ hectare Te extensive property and gardens are named for the Admiral butterly Whanga saltwater lagoon. Most of the time it’s cut of from the sea, and we were interested to see that as well as the usual blue-lowered and despite its area it’s not very deep. However, every now and again forget-me-not – this garden has pink and white varieties as well. Next, the surrounding dunes are breached by the tide, enabling entry to the we were off to see some basalt columns that have been likened in lake by ish, including sharks. A favourite pastime for tourists is looking structure to the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland. he 80 million-year-old for black fossilised prehistoric shark teeth along the shores of the lake. polygonal shapes present a fascinating sight, and Chris gave us a talk Judging by the number of teeth that have been found over the years, on paleomagnetism. We stopped for lunch at Port Hutt at the head of the lake must have supported a large population of those predators in Whangaroa Bay. he beautiful white sand beaches were breathtaking, ancient times. and the decaying boat hulls in the bay have been well photographed, We’d been warned that there wouldn’t be time for ishing on our but we couldn’t resist taking more photos. Chathams trip, and indeed there wasn’t. Our days were long, full and interesting. But this particular day began in an exceptional way when some of us had the chance to drive along to the far end of Waitangi Beach in the pre-dawn to see a sea elephant that had made the beach its temporary home. The experience made the subsequent rushed breakfast worthwhile, and then we were of to Owenga to see the statue of Tommy Solomon before leaving for Pitt Island. We couldn’t have picked a better day to visit. A bumpy boat ride across the strait saw us arrive at Flowerpot Harbour on Pitt Island. Ater being welcomed to Flowerpot Bay Lodge with tea, freshly baked A startled Pitt Island lamb

Rock formations, Te Whanga lagoon

78 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz Our Lady of the Antipodes church, Pitt Island

H i s t o r y - He r i t a g e - Na t u r e

Polygonal rock formations

YOUR CHATHAM ISLANDS ADVENTURE HOLIDAY WILL BE A JOURNEY K&/^KsZz͘͘͘ 9LVLWVLJQLͤFDQWVLWHVRIKLVWRU\DQGKHULWDJH)LQGWKHKRPHRIXQLTXH ELUGVDQGSODQWV/HDUQDERXWWKHDQFLHQW0RULRULFRYHQDQWRISHDFH *RKXQWLQJDQGͤVKLQJ(QMR\UXJJHGDQGDZHLQVSLULQJODQGVFDSHV 0HHWDQGLQWHUDFWZLWKWKHORFDOV 0508 CHATHAMS (0508 242 8426) dŽƵƌŝƐŵĞǀĞůŽƉŵĞŶƚKĸĐĞ ŝŶĨŽΛĚŝƐĐŽǀĞƌƚŚĞĐŚĂƚŚĂŵŝƐůĂŶĚƐ͘ĐŽ͘Ŷnj ǁǁǁ͘ĚŝƐĐŽǀĞƌƚŚĞĐŚĂƚŚĂŵŝƐůĂŶĚƐ͘ĐŽ͘Ŷnj A host of golden dafodils, Pitt Island CHATHAM ISLANDS

From a high point on the road we looked at Mount Diefenbach, one friendly, with a sense of humour that was evident from some words of several volcanic peaks that are a dominant feature in the north of the written on an old boat hull. island. Apparently they were submarine volcanoes that were uplited by While on Chatham Island I picked up a very good book entitled ancient volcanic activity and over time, eroded. Dr Campbell explained Discover and Explore the Chatham Islands, by Cherry Lawrie and Jocelyn that the Chathams are of particular interest from a geological perspective Powell – it’s full of interesting information. here’s also a heap of stuf because they are so removed from the active plate boundary that runs online, but the best way to get a feel for the place is to go there. Our own through mainland New Zealand. “In this sense, they are probably the excursion was led by geologists, so we learnt a lot about geology as well most stable part of New Zealand,” he says. as about the natural environment, culture, history and of course the Expansive views of white sand beaches to the east and west almost people. Others would have their own reason for a trip to the Chathams, made up for negotiating a fairly serious electric fence before we dropped including the chance of a irst-class ishing expedition. It’s worth noting down from Maunganui Bluf to the beach. A small seal lolloped into that as several of the attractions are accessed by way of private property, the sea in front of us before we headed through dunes to the Stone an organised tour allows tourists to gain the maximum beneit from Cottage – constructed between 1866 to 1868 and virtually unchanged a visit, as well as having certainty of accommodation and transport. since that time – where we were welcomed with a cup of tea. We’d rate our own experience as a trip of a lifetime. Two days previously we’d returned from Pitt Island with sunburnt noses. On our way to the airport for the trip home we saw that the hills around Waitangi Bay were white with snow! Having seen and learnt and done such a lot made it hard to hop on the Convair for our light home. Almost as diicult was nurturing my newly purchased forget- me-nots through three plane trips. We saw a range of environments from wetlands to farmlands to coastal forests, from dunes to rocky coasts, lagoons and reserves where we encountered a diverse range of plants, birds and butterlies, and we learnt an awful lot about geology – fossils, rock types, Gondwana and Zealandia – and we visited the Kopinga Marae, a marae totally unlike any other in the country. Our visit came at the ‘right’ time of the year. he Chatham Islands are the same latitude as Christchurch, and although we experienced extremes from sunshine to wind to snow, overall the weather was moderate, and the people were welcoming and Historic cottage at Maunganui

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Input from Dr Hamish Campbell and Kristie-Lee Thomas in providing information about the historic 1868 tsunami, the recent commemoration of the event, and tsunami facts is acknowledged and appreciated. REFERENCES Discover and Explore the Chatham Islands by Cherry Lawrie and Jocelyn Powell Awesome Forces edited by Geoff Hicks and Hamish Campbel Te Ara.govt.nz

Last day – snow on the hills

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To learn more, visit www.airchathams.co.nz or call 0800 580 127 AIMS GAMES Story Peter Williams Photos supplied AIMS GAMES You can always tell when it’s the second week of September in Tauranga

Brock Ironside beats Dylan Kowalewski to win Boys Year 7 cross country

he place is teeming with 11, 12 and 13-year-olds. here are ‘No Vacancy’ signs up at all the motels and apartments and you can’t T park your car within a kilometre of Blake Park in Mt Maunganui. Yes, it’s AIMS Games time again. his year there were 10,851 athletes taking part in 22 sports. hey represented 326 schools from Kaitaia to Dunedin and from Gisborne to New Plymouth. Plus there were kids from Australia and Paciic Island nations too. Putting that in context, it’s way more than the 6600 athletes at this year’s Gold Coast Commonwealth Games and not much less than the 11,544 competitors at the Rio Olympics. “It’s incredible how much it’s grown, but it probably comes back to the foundations the tournament was built on and how well it’s run A full house at the opening and put together,” says 1990s All Black Kevin Schuler, who coached ceremony, ASB Arena

his youngest son’s Aquinas College (Tauranga) water polo team this year. “hat’s what makes it so attractive to so many schools around New Zealand and beyond.” Considering that all the schools bring support staf, and many of the kids have their parents in town for at least a part of the week, and even many of the local schools stay in accommodation closer to the venues, it’s thought that between 11 and 12 thousand people pay to stay in greater Tauranga for at least a couple of days of games. No wonder the city council believes the week injects more than three million dollars to the local economy. Aerial view of Blake Park, Mt Maunganui. AIMS he idea was born in back in 2004. hat year Vicki Semple started at Games HQ and venue for netball and sevens Sport Bay of Plenty, the community trust charged with ofering sports

82 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz activity to people of all ages in the area. On her irst day at work, she went to a meeting with the principals of the four intermediate schools in Tauranga. hey were working on an idea for a multisport festival involving year 7 and 8 students. he irst such festival happened later that year. AIMS stands for Association of Intermediate and Middle Schools. At the irst AIMS Games 750 students from 17 schools took part in four sports. Ater that irst meeting 14 years ago, Vicki Semple became intricately involved in planning. She’s been the event director ever since, overseeing a more than 10-fold increase in competitors, and a nearly 20-fold lit in the number of schools taking part. hat’s not to mention going from Henry Scoles (le ) and Isaac Schuler four to 22 sports! But she acknowledges she has the support of a huge of Aquinas College water polo team support team. “I never take it for granted that I know everything,” she says. “But I’m It’s amazing now to look back at the irst event and see the subsequent so lucky to have so many inspirational and supportive people with me.” success of some of those early competitors, and not always in their AIMS Games sport. Black Stick Samantha Charlton did play hockey for Tauranga’s Otumoetai Intermediate in 2004. But so did two others who then went on to achieve prominence in other sports – Matamata Intermediate’s Matt Stanley, who became an Olympic swimmer, and Tauranga Intermediate’s Zoe Stevenson, a world champion rower. All Black hooker Nathan Harris from Te Puke Intermediate kicked it around playing football back then against Black Caps fast bowler Adam Milne from Palmerston North. he AIMS Games didn’t exist when Dame Valerie Adams was at intermediate school, but the world- and Olympic champion shot putter was the star attraction on the opening day this year. Extraordinarily, Jemima Katoa of Royal Oak the opening ceremony at the indoor ASB Arena in Mt Maunganui has Intermdiate in girls sevens become such a big afair, it has to be held twice so that all the kids can go.

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Rock climbers Mischa Boorman Renee Carey, winner of the and Kieran Death on Mauao girls year 7 cross country

News about the success of the week and the fun that the kids have, his year the AIMS Games had numerous connections to some of has now spread beyond these shores. Some make a really special efort New Zealand’s sporting best. Rugby League star Ali Lauiti’iti had two to take part. daughters playing netball for Holy Cross School from Papatoetoe. To get to Tauranga by the second week of September, 12-year-old Former Black Sticks striker Katie Glynn was coaching Auckland’s badminton player Ray Charles Marsters had to leave his far flung Diocesan School hockey team and one-time Silver Fern Leonie Leaver Cook Islands atoll of Palmerston at the start of August! hat’s because helped out with the St Kentigern College netball squad. the two-day cargo boat trip from his home island across to Rarotonga But the AIMS Games are not about famous names. hey’re not about only happens once every two months. Ray Charles trained three days high-achieving coaches or parents. hey’re about the kids having the a week with the other Cook Islands badminton players before coming greatest experience of their young sporting lives. to New Zealand. he event is intensely competitive. hey do keep score here. hey His family in the Cooks sold barbequed sausages and coconut milk hand out medals and cups to those who win. hese young people are to raise the money to send him to the AIMS Games. He comes from learning, in their most impressionable years, that winning is fun and an island where there are just two telephones and internet access for important but losing isn’t the end of the world. only four hours a day. It’s also about kids from all over the country meeting and mixing, But while the AIMS Games are a brand new experience for Ray sharing experiences and taking away memories that last for years. Charles Marsters, it’s just been part of growing up for 11-year-old Isaac It takes an extraordinary number of woman and man hours to Schuler. he youngest son of Kevin Schuler, Isaac is the ith member organise, but the AIMS Games are an event Tauranga is very proud of. of his family to play in the AIMS. His oldest brother Angus started in Other places might have their lash stadiums or their champion rugby basketball when Isaac was still a baby back in 2007. Now Isaac is involved teams but with this huge multisport festival, the booming Bay of Plenty in the game the family is forging a serious reputation in – water polo. is playing a very signiicant role in developing the next generation of Dad’s the coach of the Aquinas College team. Isaac is following in kiwi champions. the wake of two other brothers Loui and Josef who played in Aquinas College teams which won medals between 2012 and 2014, before going on to become national age group representatives.

Cook Islands badminton player Ray Charles Marsters Performance group aerobics

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CARAVANS NEW ZEALAND QUINN TODAY

QUINN TODAY Keith Quinn

This month Keith delves into the colourful role that ‘Scotsman’s Grandstands’ and the part they played in the narrative of New Zealand rugby in the middle years – the 1950s and 1960s. Lancaster Park in Christchurch in 1959, with impressive Scotman’s Grandstands in place in Wilsons Road TKIJV QXGTNQQMKPIVJGOCKPQHƒEKCNUVCPF The Battle of Walters Road

or most of the 20th century, in our country’s address comes the main part of this reminiscence. weekly whirl most New Zealanders Ian’s father was Neill Culpan, who had his own Fworked from Mondays to Fridays, leaving electrical business. He bought 44 Walters Road for the weekends mainly for family, recreation or his family in 1957. It was a solid, wooden three- church. From a sporting point of view, one of bedroom place with a backyard – a typical home the most abiding memories is that almost all of of its time. But as the years unfolded it became the sports parks in most towns in New Zealand apparent that the home’s main advantage came could comfortably cope with any local interest. from its location right next to the great Auckland here were always plenty of seats for the crowds rugby ield, Eden Park. who wanted to watch. You see, over the back fence the home’s backyard But when major sports tours happened, like those lined up perfectly with the halfway line of the of the Springboks or British Lions rugby teams, famous rugby playing ield – to be precise, it was suddenly the demand for tickets far exceeded the right over the top of the terrace toilets. From that size of our major grounds. vantage point came a clear and uninterrupted view Therefore, can I delve this month into the of any sports activity unfolding on New Zealand’s colourful role that ‘Scotsman’s Grandstands’ played biggest playing and watching sports arena. in the narrative of New Zealand rugby in the middle Like any number of other sports ields around years, the 1950s and 1960s. For this I’m talking the country, the actual ground could comfortably about Auckland mostly, but not totally. cope with local crowd attendance sizes without any My story came from a chance conversation with problems. For test matches though, or other major Ian Culpan. hese days Ian is an accomplished games like Ranfurly Shield games, suddenly Eden academic as Professor of Physical Education at Park became a crush and was oten very cramped the University of Canterbury. He has had a life for the paying fans. devoted to understanding and bettering the health Watching from over the fence, the astute Neill and wellness of all New Zealanders. In 1999 Ian Culpan spied an opportunity for him and his family. wrote the curriculum for Health and Physical Neill took an idea to the Mount Albert Borough Education in New Zealand. But as a lad in the Council and asked for a permit to build a ‘double mid-1950s Ian remembers living at 44 Walters Various views of the Eden Park Scotsman’s carport’ in his home’s backyard. Ater appropriate Road in Mount Eden, Auckland, and from that grandstand of the 1950s inspections approval for such a plan was granted.

86 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz hus a wooden structure was built out of planks and ‘four-by-twos’, but according to Ian Culpan, “It had no loor, no sides and never had any cars park in it!” Instead, over the top of the ‘carport’ a wooden spectator’s grandstand was built. he constructed ediice was so solid it became more like a permanent ixture. It was capable of holding the bottoms of 120 keen rugby folk none of whom could get into Eden Park by oicial ticketing methods. Basically, the Culpans sold tickets to friends, families or fans who could not get tickets for a decent view from inside the main arena. Across the other side of Eden Park the Auckland Rugby Union oicials were aghast and then outraged when they saw the stand being built. (he nickname ‘he Scotsman’s Grandstand’ soon sprang up.) But it was to The hard-working Neill and Thelma Culpan stand in place for years – from 1957 until 1963 – and in time became the source of much debate, agitation, some anger, and considerable thumbing of the nose at rugby’s world of oicialdom. And the grandstand also spawned other similar structures around Eden Park and around the country. he families of neighbours of the Culpans in Walters Road (the Imlachs on one side and the Whitcombes on the other) and then Mrs Monica O’Sullivan with her ‘Irishman’s Grandstand’ around the corner in Cricket Avenue, all cashed in as well. The Culpan Grandstand contruction But the Culpan’s creation was the most impressive of all, mostly because of its ‘pride of place’ overlooking Eden Park’s holy of holies green sward. unoicial view, so life went on. When a major game was played, the (In Christchurch, an aerial shot of Lancaster Park taken in 1959 also Culpan’s tickets continued to sell. hey always did; they were highly shows massive neighbourhood structures in the backyards of Wilsons sought ater because they also ofered food and drinks before and ater. Road behind the huge main grandstand. They don’t peer over the Ian Culpan continues his memories: “Mum (helma Culpan) worked top of the main grandstand of Canterbury’s biggest ield; rather they all day and night on the Friday, cooking up scones, sandwiches and appear to almost command a power position. In Dunedin a train line cakes. She even provided tea and supper for the police staf who were had always overlooked Carisbrook Oval, and oten times the passing on duty on Walters Road. hey were in place in case there was any trains would slow or even stop for a time to take in the action on a boisterous overnight behaviour from the fans who were queuing for the rugby test match day.) best terrace seats when the oicial entry gates opened next morning. Meanwhile, back in Auckland in the late 1950s, local rugby union So we never had any trouble. One season we even employed Barry oicials of the powerful Eden Park Trust Board were having none of Courtenay the Empire Games wrestler, who was a friend, though he it. hey formally complained to the Mt Albert Borough Council about and his mates were there to ‘discourage’ people who were inside Eden the revenue they were losing because of what was happening at 44 Park but who, as kick-of approached, realised that by attempting to Walters Road, but the Councillors did little to halt or pull down the climb out and get onto our stand they structure. Not only had they earlier given their approval for it to be would get a better, but free, view.” built, but possibly they did not want to change anything as the shrewd “We were seen by many to always have Mr Culpan Snr had provided free tickets for them and their Building the best view! We were right on halfway. Inspectors to sit in a row of seats at the big games! We were warm with the aternoon sun It even came down to the ARU building their own scafold in front of on our backs and therefore there was the Culpan’s in an attempt to block the view (oicially the ARU said their no squinting! With the police handy we platform was to be the location for the irst New Zealand Broadcasting also made sure there was no beer on our Corporation’s Outside Broadcast TV van to ilm major games). stand, so there was never any trouble. But the tarpaulin on the ‘oicial’ structure, which was primarily And there was never any rubbish let there to shelter cameras on a rainy day, could only obstruct part of the aterwards. We were so well organised!”

6JGHCOQWU2GVGT,QPGUVT[X5QWVJ#HTKECKPYKVJHCPUYCVEJKPIHTQO 6JGXKGYQHQH'FGP2CTMŨURNC[KPIƒGNFHTQOVJG%WNRCP5EQVUOCPŨUUVCPF overhanging trees facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 87 QUINN TODAY

Ian also added, “In the old pictures from the years of the late 1950s on Mount Albert Road. you can see that trees were part of the inner terrace of Eden Park and Ian Culpan says with a smile that in the years aterwards his Dad therefore some were a potential obstruction of our ticket-holders’ view. would say (somewhat ruefully) that he only had one regret about the But that was no problem – a couple of nights before major matches Dad whole afair, and that was that in the inal sale of his home he hadn’t would jump the fence and in the dark he would clamber up and lop added a clause which gave him ‘two tickets for life inside the new Eden of those branches which would have been a nuisance on match day.” Park grandstand!’ One has to presume that as the seasons rolled on and the money rolled in there was proit for the Culpans hat was true. Ian was reluctant to To this day Eden Park is still situated of course, in the suburb of Mt go into full details but it was estimated at one point that as each seat Eden. It is also near bustling Kingsland and is about 45-minutes’ walk cost 18 shillings to build and there was a £10 return for each, it was an from downtown Auckland city. he sports ground irst came about in 1921. excellent yield opportunity. Before that it had been a rather unsightly Then more pressure came on. The smallish lake crossed by a causeway. But Auckland Rugby Union had their own when it was turned into a rugby ‘paddock’, ideas of expansion. hey drew up plans at the hosting of its irst rugby test 40,000 for a big new, state-of-the-art grandstand highly excited but ultimately disappointed to fully cover the old eastern terraces and New Zealanders were at the new Eden thus block out the views of any ‘outsiders’. Park – they saw the All Blacks lose 5–9 But before they could progress with to the Springboks. their plans they had to buy up all of the With the post-WW1 population Walters Road homes that backed onto explosion, suburban housing gradually their ground. built up around the ground so that by As a 13-year-old Ian recalled that the 1956 the clamour for tickets to get in irst discussions about the Eden Park Trust was enormous. That was the year the and Auckland Rugby Union obtaining No Springboks had returned and New Zealand 44 came about when the two powerhouse as a nation was desperately keen for their personalities of local rugby, Messrs Tom All Blacks to score their first-ever test Pearce and Link Warren, arrived for talks series victory. in the Culpan household. Somebody wrote on the day of the fourth “hey all went into our front room test match, when New Zealand did win and I heard raised voices,” says Ian, “but the series, that 61,240 people were packed Dad was shrewd and he hung out for a in. I do not know how the systems in place good deal for us. While other households then could have made such an exact along the road caved in to the weight count but that’s what oicialdom said of pressure, or seemed reluctant to pay on the day. It was a record crowd (and the costs of any upcoming legal battles, probably still is for any rugby match in Dad, aided by our excellent young lawyer New Zealand). Since then the ground has Mr Ian Barker (who later became the had other changes and modernisations Honourable Sir Ian Barker QC) worked made to it and it has become ‘Fortress tirelessly. By then it was 1959 and for the Eden Park.’ No All Black team has lost three matches of the huge British Lions there from 1994 through to 2018. tour our grandstand had increased in size to include scafolding pipes. hey Around the corner from the 1957–63 were put up by the staf of Dad’s friend Keith Quinn in Walters Road today,near where number 44 was. ‘Battle of Walters Road’, Mrs Monica Ernie McDonald, who owned Safeway He is standing under the tribute statue of Dave Gallaher, the O’Sullivan was able to keep her ‘Irishman’s Scafolding. ƒTUV#NN$NCEMECRVCKP Grandstand’ going for a number of years, “he new stand was even bigger, a huge even into the 1990s. This writer can one with 32 seats in each row. he Auckland Rugby Union would see remember on the eve of the irst Rugby World Cup inal at Eden Park the scafold being built on Fridays and they would then rush to formally in June, 1987, suddenly being in possession of over two dozen tickets for complain to the Mount Albert Borough Council that there could not her 1 Cricket Avenue grandstand address. he tickets had been sold to a possibly be a permit for such a building to take place. he Council did group of Australian supporters who had thought their Wallabies would nothing (as they were sitting on their regular free tickets of course) make the inal against the All Blacks. But when France beat Australia and the scafolders weren’t going to take down their structure before in Sydney in the semi-inal of that tournament, the supporters abruptly kick-of the next day; they also had free tickets! declined to ly the Tasman and watch an Aussie-less game. Instead the “In return the Safeway people would come back to the house on tickets were handed to me to dispose of. I took them to broadcaster Barry the Sunday, well ater the games were over, so that on Monday when Holland, and on the 1ZB radio station he was able to happily pass them the ARU went to oicially complain there was no grandstand to see on to fans around Auckland who had missed out on a sold-out Eden to complain about!” Park. he All Blacks won that game too and thus a historic chapter in In the end the Culpans earned a massive payment for the sale of their New Zealand’s sport was to close a few years later with most people happy home and Eden Park’s new stand was built. he home the Culpans had and many colourful stories let to tell. bought for £2500 in 1957 sold to the Eden Park Trust (who owned the With thanks to Ian Culpan of Christchurch for great assistance in the Auckland Rugby Union) for something like £20,000. he family then story here of a bygone era of rugby watching from a time which many relocated, one has to say with considerable satisfaction, to a new home will have forgotten.

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90 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz TODAY Allan Dick

the wealthy and comfortably of. Shanks’s pony, another nation. Japan mainly. trams and trains were how the vast majority of he change was slow at irst, but by the mid- Kiwi families got around. nineties we were in full light. Used cars were he war changed that. coming in from Japan by the mega-shipload, Tens of thousands of New Zealand blokes, ofering levels of sophistication and comfort we coming home ater facing death in battle, wanted had previously only dreamed of. But, of course, a better life and that included the freedom that many were frauds having had their odometers came with owning their own car. wound back. Before the war, used cars were considered New cars were also far more readily available ‘junk’. he motor industry didn’t want them – – “Yes sir, drive her away today, now what colour they accepted an owner’s old car as a trade-in would you like?” – but they were still expensive with the greatest of reluctance, and the industry and out of the reach of many. wanted ‘the government’ to do something But that also was about to change. Lower about it. import duties, lower taxes, and more competition Ater the war, any car – no matter how old meant dealers had to sharpen their pencils. and rotten – became valuable property and a And on top of it all, inancial institutions were TODAY new industry was established dealing in second- now allowed to ofer any sort of hire-purchase Allan Dick hand cars for a profit. So, demand for new arrangement the buyer felt comfortable with. cars, second-hand cars and rotten old wrecks Even a no-deposit arrangement. Reminiscences from NZTODAY boomed. he problem was that New Zealand By the year 2000 we were a nation of car founder Allan Dick was a destitute country and only a trickle of junkies. new cars were imported each year, that kept But we no longer fixed them the way we NZ AND OUR OLD CARS demand, and the price, of used cars and the used to. he love and patience we had shown n terms of ‘OECD-type/Western-style’ rotten old wrecks artiicially high. during the forties, ities, sixties and seventies nations two things stand out in New Zealand Along with mowing the lawns, cutting the in keeping those rotten old wrecks going, had Ithat we should not be proud of. One is that hedge, tending the vegie garden and painting been replaced by a regime of drive-it-until-it- the number of road fatalities per 100,000 the house, keeping the old family car going conks-out. hen we’d simply park it up and buy population is among the worst and, two, that on string, wire and a prayer, was just another another cheap car for a handful of dollars and the average age of our car/vehicle leet is among weekend job for father. repeat the cycle all over again. the oldest. We became a nation of backyard, do-it-yourself This is a generalisation, but ‘old cars’ are Are the two connected? car tinkerers and repairers, becoming experts dangerous – dangerous because they don’t Without a doubt. at extracting the last few miles out of the life of have the modern life-saving safety features that I mention this because, as I write, the cars that would have long since been crushed simply get better every year. But also dangerous government has announced a nose-bleeding by any other than hird World countries. And because they can show the attitude of some $16.9 billion to be spent on transport in this even then we didn’t not give up – somehow we’d owners towards road safety. country. his is to be spread over a number of ind a way to get to the beach one more time in These old cars have now become totally years, but most of it will be spent on dragging that old wreck of a car. Over the years I’ve heard disposable, Buy an old croucher for $300 and our hird World roading system into the 21st countless stories of how, having gotten to the drive it for six months until it breaks down. century, as well as public transport. beach or camping ground, Dad would spend hen remove the plates and abandon it, park it But tucked away in the ine print of all of this most of the family holiday ixing the car so it on the front lawn or sell it to a wrecker for $20 is a plan to rid the country of many of our older would get the family back home again. and buy another. We don’t ix cars any more. cars. hat’s admirable, but it’s not a new idea. Lying on your back, looking at the cold, No maintenance, no care. Drive it for weeks, or A quick Google search shows that getting ‘old black, oily underside of a car was part of life in months, on the ‘space-saver’ spare and never bangers’ of New Zealand roads was part of the New Zealand. worry about it. previous Labour government’s plan in 2006. It was a situation that lasted for decades. It his is a vastly diferent situation than that New Zealand has always had a love afair with was only in the mid-eighties that we began to which I grew up with. I scrimped and saved to rotten old cars. Before WWII – and not only in get ‘newer’ cars at reasonable prices. And even buy my rotten old wreck – a 1935 Ford V8 and New Zealand – cars were largely the domain of then, they were the cast-ofs – the ‘junk’ – of spent every spare moment coaxing a few more miles out of it. I applaud the over-arching premise of getting rid of many of the old cars from New Zealand roads. They are dangerous and they are an environmental disaster. But how is it going to happen? Not all old cars are rotten and dangerous of course – some are classics and more loved than a spouse, so I expect there will be provision for that. New Zealanders continue to have a love affair with old cars — some are lovingly restored liked this 1934 But ater almost 30 years of buying rotten old Plymouth, while others, like this Chevrolet truck, are just parked up because the owner can’t bear to part with wrecks that cost a song, how are you going to it. The government wants to rid the country of some of our old cars in the name of progress — and safety — wean of so many people who are hooked on but how will that be achieved this sort of car? facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz NZTODAY ISSUE 82 91 TODAY Allan Dick

read about in the news. He seems enthusiastic, gold-mining village of St Bathans is one of my but seems to lack the sort of gravitas I would favourite places on earth. I remember the irst expect for a bloke with his arms deep inside time I saw it. he Dick family and the three the money vault. Dickettes were on our irst visit to ‘Central’ At times, I admit, he seems so genuinely ater arriving in Dunedin in late 1949. It was excited about what he’s doing – I worry. a boiling hot day and my father had told us I hope his mother taught him to save his about this place with the “blue lake”. pennies. I was gob-smacked – the lake looked like Phil Twyford — amiable, liable to fluster and in an alien world – weird shaped, white clifs charge of huge budgets as Minister of Housing and DRIVING ON THE RIGHT plunging into waters that were bluer than Transport Today, as I write this, I read on a news blue. I remember a rusty wire fence on which website that three New Zealanders and one hung the corpses of a dozen or so rabbits – PHIL TWYFORD American have been injured in a head-on crash mummiied by the blazing Central sun. I have The man in charge of this $16.9 billion in California. You may guess what is coming been back and back and back, many times since spend-up on transport is also the same man next. he New Zealanders were driving on the then. St Bathans is the genuine article – a step in charge of possibly an even bigger budget in wrong side of the road! back in time. overcoming the so-called ‘housing crisis’. I say I wonder if the United States has gone into At one stage it looked like St Bathans might ‘so-called’ because it really does seem to be an melt-down demanding that New Zealanders become a mini Queenstown. Aucklanders had almost exclusively Auckland issue. arriving in the USA undergo an American snapped up a couple of houses and everyone In the entire history of New Zealand, has one driving test before being allowed on the road? held their breath … waiting for the invasion. person ever before been in charge of spending But it never happened. St Bathans is unspoiled. so much of our money? I know nothing about ST BATHANS It bakes in the summer sun. It freezes its arse Phil Twyford except what I see on TV and Looking for a slice of heaven? he historic off in the winter. It’s a tourist magnet. But

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92 NZTODAY ISSUE 82 facebook.com/nztoday nztoday.co.nz TODAY Allan Dick it’s unspoiled. he picturesque quaintness is show him how eicient private radio was – and remarkable. what a clever clogs I was! To show you how unchanged St Bathans is, I found myself stuttering “S-s-s-i-i-r-r” and my friends Mike and Jude are selling the historic it all turned to custard with my irst question Vulcan Pub. he price is about half of what – “his is my irst interview with you S-s-i-i- you’d pay for an average home in Auckland. r-r, but if the roles were reversed, what would your irst question be …?” MEETING MULDOON “What a silly question,” he growled, giving his is a précis of a longer version of this me the most perfect Evil Eye. “Now, let’s get on incident that I have written for the NZToday with this.” I agreed and for the next 30 minutes Facebook page. mumbled my way through various questions In 1980 I was gung-ho – news editor and while he was in total and ruthless control. talkback host at Radio 4XO in Dunedin, a bit Meeting Muldoon — a terrifying experience for a It was only when the interview was over of a Big Shot who had been given the role of cocksure Allan Dick and I was packing up my truckload of gear, ‘shock jock’ before the term was invented. that he became (almost) human. He wanted Rob Muldoon was at the height of his powers, to know about things in Dunedin, how was sneering at journalists, tossing out and banning hen, out of the blue, an invitation came to the city going, was their man Richard Wall those he didn’t like, dividing the country – you have a one-on-one with him ater a National doing a good job as MP for Dunedin North were either part of ‘Rob’s Mob’ or not – and, Party conference in Dunedin. and would he win again? as history was to prove, making decisions At first I remained cocky, but as D-Day I got to know him much better years later that ended up driving New Zealand down a approached I became increasingly nervous. when he had retired and hosted a Sunday dead-end street. hen anxious. I was surprised to ind myself aternoon show on Radio Paciic called ‘Lilies He seldom bothered with Dunedin, so I got wanting to impress him. Knowing that state and Other hings’. cockier and cockier in my morning opinion broadcaster Radio 4ZB were booked in before But he was still grumpy and still a bully who piece – ‘he Allan Dick Report’. I called him me for their one-on-one, complete with a liked to intimidate. the “Gang of One” and other names, safe in reporter and a supporting cast of thousands If you want to read the full account of my total the knowledge he never listened to 4XO, and – well three or four – I arrived with just me. humiliation, go to the NZTODAY Facebook I criticised his bullying ways. And a load of recording equipment just to page – www.facebook.com/nztoday

ON SALE NOW classicdriver.co.nz classicdrivernz TODAY Allan Dick

6JGURQKNUQHYQTMCPFYGCNVJБ6JGJWIGCPFFGƒPKVGN[QXGTVJGVQROCPUKQP6QP[3WKPPDQWIJVKPUGOKEQORNGVGFUVCVGťEQORNGVGYKVJJGCVGFKPFQQTRQQN #NYC[UYKVJCPG[GVQCPQRRQTVWPKV[KVYCUDQWIJVCVCŧDCTICKPŨRTKEGCUCPKPXGUVOGPVCPFUKPEGUQNF

BEING WEALTHY machinery irst needed to be put in place in hree years ago, as part of the research in the new factory so that it could be producing writing a book on his life, I spent a week with licorice in the morning. Scots-born, Australia and NZ-domiciled, he two engineers who were working that multi-millionaire Tony Quinn. Sunday were sent home to get scrubbed up Quinn is the owner of Highlands Motorsport and meet us at the pub while Klark and Tony Park in Cromwell and Hampton Downs south brought the licorice machine in on a forklit, of Auckland – plus a lot of other property. I and I helped them place it into position on had already got to know Quinn reasonably the line, bolt it to the loor, hook it up and get well, as I put together the museum that is part it working. My part of the action was small – of the Highlands complex. 6QP[3WKPPCPFUQP-NCTMOWNNQXGTCPKUUWGOQXKPI holding this, passing that, doing up bolts – and For the book, the Navigator and I went OCEJKPGT[KPVJGPGY&CTT[N.GCEJQEQNCVGCPF I couldn’t help but be impressed; here was one to Australia and spent time with him at his NKEQTKEGHCEVQT[KP5[FPG[9QTMKPINCVGQPC5WPFC[ of the wealthiest men in Australia, certainly the extraordinarily lavish home in the hills behind PKIJVFGURKVGDGKPIOWNVKOKNNKQPCKTGU wealthiest person I knew personally, working the Gold Coast and also in Sydney where he like a navvy, getting hands dirty and getting was overseeing the rebuilding of the iconic he knew business. He closed down the huge, a job done. he job took three hours and we Darryl Lea chocolate and licorice company dark and rambling factory and had a more were 20 minutes late getting to the big steaks he had recently bought. modern, much smaller factory constructed. – the rest were there before us, having a beer. I knew something of Tony’s life story – as a He made his eldest son and fellow motor Before we let, we ran the gear and made lad he had lived in a converted bus in Scotland racer, Klark, the manager of Darryl Lea, and some licorice. and inherited his father’s charm and work ethic, Klark and his wife live in a small lat above Since then, things have changed for Tony. but not his father’s ability to make money and this new factory. He sold VIP Petfoods, bought the NZ licorice lose it quickly. It was a Sunday when we lew from Brisbane company RJs and added it to the Darryl Lea It was his determination to (a) make money to Sydney and Quinn showed me the rambling group, and then sold that as well. All told many but (b) not to waste it, that was the driving force old factory – the line ‘dark satanic mill’ came hundreds of millions of dollars. in his life. He worked 20 hours a day, seven days to mind. hey were mid-way through shiting I saw him last year when he was in Timaru. a week in New Zealand to establish a pet-food what machinery they were taking from the old He told me about his businesses, his personal business, and having done that successfully he factory to the new one, and not wanting to halt life, how much he’d sold the businesses for – shited to Australia and changed up several production were operating from both places. “I’ve got more money than I will ever need.” I gears. He became turbocharged. We were going to have dinner together that thought of his journey from living as a kid in a VIP Petfoods was a huge international night (Quinn and his wife, the Navigator and converted bus in Scotland, to doing the rounds success and he owned it without any debt – me, along with some key staf and workers), of the ish and chip shops in Northland picking rather he had vaults full of cash. In a bit over but this was not some lavish dinner in a ive- up used cooking fat to render down – from a decade and a half he had created personal star restaurant – it was at a pub famous for being poor to fabulously wealthy. wealth of about $450 million. its big steaks. We were to meet at 7.30, but That night in Sydney, like most multi- His work ethic was still strong; he knew Klark and Tony decided that a vital piece of millionaires, he could have been wearing every nuance of his business and ran it very an Armani suit, sitting in the back seat of a much hands on. But he had relaxed a little limousine being taken to the best restaurant and was starting to enjoy some of the fruits of in town. Instead, he was installing a machine, his success – building Highlands was such a getting his hands dirty and going off for a thing. He started with a budget of ‘about’ $20 pub meal. million, but that increased to $30 million as Tony Quinn has worked incredibly hard; he developed a facility that is much more of he’s been tough, but honest and fair, always a stunning tourist operation in Central Otago paid his dues, and has always delivered in than a specialised motor racing circuit. his promises. Just over three years ago he was ofered the And he’s done it with a rough sort of Billy Darryl Lea chocolate and licorice business that Connolly Scottish humour liberally laced with was in a deeply distressed state. +VYQTMUБ4CURDGTT[NKEQTKEGTQNNKPIQHHVJGGPFQHVJG the ‘F’ word. Although he knew pet food inside out, he OCEJKPGCVVJG&CTT[N.GCHCEVQT[CHVGTUQOGNCVG Never begrudge success when it’s been knew nothing about chocolate and licorice – but 5WPFC[PKIJVYQTM worked for.

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