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DESTINATIONS Tackling the Slopes of Snowdon Is More of a Challenge

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DESTINATIONS Tackling the Slopes of Snowdon Is More of a Challenge DESTINATIONS SNOWDONIA | ACTIVE & ADVENTURE Moving mountains Tackling the slopes of Snowdon is more of a challenge than you might expect, findsLaura French ell this is going to be a doddle, outdoor clothing shop in preparation, while I made I thought smugly to myself, as I do with a pair of plimsolls and a decade-old hoodie. set off beneath a quintessentially wWelsh (read cloudy) sky to take on the iconic Mount PEAK PERFORMANCE Snowdon, father in tow, slopes sprawling out But complacency was soon to become my enemy. around us under a mystical, purplish haze. Within minutes, I was clambering breathlessly up a I was training for Kilimanjaro, and I assumed this string of waist-high rocks, fighting with gale-force winds was going to be something of a walk in the park in and battling the rain pelting on to my unprotected comparison. At 1,085 metres, it doesn’t have quite head. Not quite the stroll in the park I’d imagined. the altitude of Africa’s highest mountain, nor does it Despite all that, it was spectacular. Craggy rocks involve five nights of camping, six days of trekking rose up around us as we ascended between patches and 10 hours of nighttime summiting. Though that of lime-green grass and cliff-like peaks, silence ande didn’t stop my dad purchasing the entirety of the smell of fresh rain filling our senses. ➣ travelweekly.co.uk 16 MAY 2019 69 DESTINATIONS SNOWDONIA | ACTIVE & ADVENTURE drops either side – while those at carved landscapes – alongside the other end of the spectrum might rugged, empty beaches and steep prefer the aforementioned trains, mountain-bike trails. ASK THE which carry passengers up through Wildlife fans will be in their postcard-pretty landscapes in element on Bardsey Island, expert two-and-a-half-hour round-trips, where seals slump on the shores without the effort of a hike. There’s beside sixth-century remnants a heritage steam locomotive and a and Neolithic stone circles, and “With its award-winning beaches, outstanding beauty and variety of things to do – more modern diesel service, with astronomy aficionados will find cycling, ziplining and mountain biking to name just a few – Snowdonia is the outdoor prices from £30 return. some of the UK’s best stargazing, adventure capital of north Wales. earning Snowdonia official dark sky In terms of Mount Snowdon itself, there are several rewarding routes, from the BEYOND THE MOUNTAIN reserve status. Llanberis Path to the more challenging Rhyd Ddu Path, which is best reserved Snowdonia – the national park My favourite spot was for more experienced walkers. Each offers a real sense of achievement and within which Snowdon sits – isn’t Portmeirion, a protected coastal breathtaking views over the beautiful Conwy Valley. only about the mountain. Spanning village created by architect Clough Visitors can also take the Snowdon Railway up and/or down – it’s one of the more than 820sq miles, this stretch Williams-Ellis in the early 1900s, with most beautiful railway journeys in the world and it’s a great way to appreciate of contours and valleys covers an Italianate houses, shops and cafes this unique mountainscape.” area almost as big as the Lake painted in striking yellow, pink and Robert Jones, media relations executive, Visit Wales District, meaning even those who blue. Ornate statues, whitewashed don’t fancy tackling the mountain villas and lush woodland made will find something to do. me fall a little bit in love with this There are hikes to suit every quaint spot, and by the end, I was level, including a network of trails feeling so serene and refreshed I felt CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Glaslyn lake; in the Ogwen Valley – home to as if I could take on Snowdon all stargazing; Bardsey Island; Portmeirion tumbling waterfalls, opal-coloured over again. Albeit perhaps with a PICTURES: Shutterstock; Visit Wales lakes and dramatic, glacier- waterproof, this time. TW Eventually it got a little easier, the path flattening out CELTIC ROYAL HOTEL, Caernarfon to a pleasant stone trail that snaked its way around the TRIED mountainside, Glaslyn lake shining out in a pool of aqua Tucked away in the medieval, walled town of Caernarfon in the heart of that looked like it belonged in the Swiss Alps. And so it Snowdonia, this atmospheric three-star – dating back to the 18th century, and continued for a good hour or so, honey-coloured trails TESTED formerly frequented by Queen Victoria – feels a bit like an ancient castle, and bottle-green trees surrounding us, until we were & decked out with deep-red carpets and traditional wood furnishings. confronted with a threateningly steep pile of scree, It’s a stone’s throw from the town’s actual castle, and makes a good base for which soon became the hardest part of the whole hike. tackling Snowdon, with the Pyg and Llanberis trails a half-hour drive away. For the next hour we scrambled our way up the Facilities include a bar, library, lounge and restaurant, as well as a downstairs barren shingles, stones pelting down, path getting spa area complete with a pool, gym, sauna and steam room. The rooms are progressively steeper, until we finally glimpsed the surprisingly big, with colourful decor and options ranging from single and double summit, peeping through a veil of thick mist. A steam en suites to interconnecting family rooms (though it’s worth noting it skews train emerged from the fog, passengers waving and toward an older clientele, with couples and touring groups predominant). congratulating us as they chugged along, making me Staying here felt like stepping back in time for a few precious days, and I left feel as if I’d just completed a three-year expedition in the feeling properly refreshed. Himalayas, rather than a three-hour walk in Wales. Book it: Double rooms in summer start at £85 per night on a B&B basis. And I half-convinced myself we had when we finally celtic-royal.co.uk reached the top, cold, soggy and weather-beaten, fog surrounding us so that I couldn’t see my own hands. REVIEWED BY Laura French The wind was so strong I could barely walk against it, but the air was fresh and pure, and I felt invigorated by being there, high above the hustle and bustle of PATH OF LEAST RESISTANCE daily life, landscapes stretching on into seeming infinity We’d opted for the Pyg Track, the shortest of the five waymarked paths that lead to the summit. The through the thick, fluffy clouds. round-trip is seven miles, but it’s said to be one of the toughest options due to the steep, at times After an hour taking it all in, we began our descent slippery, sections. It’s also one of the most popular, so it’s worth recommending setting off early to – and by 3pm we were back at Pen-y-Pas, where we’d avoid the crowds. started six hours earlier, armed with a genuine sense Other key routes include the Llanberis Path, the easiest, longest and most gradual; and the of achievement, a newfound burst of energy and an Miners’ Track, a gentle, flattish option that winds around Glaslyn lake with scenic vistas at every even greater feeling of smugness than we’d set off with. turn. We took this on the way down, and I can vouch for the views. A productive morning if ever there was one. Those after a real challenge can take on Crib Goch – known for its razor-thin ridge with sheer 70 16 MAY 2019 travelweekly.co.uk travelweekly.co.uk 16 MAY 2019 71.
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