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Goat Sweater This Pattern Was Written for a Mid-Gauge Knitting Machine

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Goat Sweater This Pattern Was Written for a Mid-Gauge Knitting Machine Modified Pattern for Shirley Smith’s Goat Sweater http://fiascofarm.com/goats/goatsweater.htm This pattern was written for a mid-gauge knitting machine. It takes me about 1 hour to knit and sew together. This sweater is made in two pieces (back and chest), then sewn together. I do not have a rib- bing attachment, so the ribbing I use is a mock ribbing. If you have a ribber (or want to hand knit the ribbing), cut the number of ribbing rows in half and use the full number of needles (stitches) as the part of the sweater you are knitting. I used Wool-Ease™ worsted wool by Lion Brand Yarns. It is an inex- pensive super-wash wool that holds up well and can be washed and dried by machine. Gauge: 6 stitches/inch; 7 rows/inch Back (knit from the neck to tail) Tension 4 Cast on (CO) 30 stitches every other needle in waste yarn using an e-wrap cast on. Hang weights. Knit 3 or 4 rows. (CO 60 stitches if you are using a ribbing attachment) Change to main color (MC) and knit 38 rows of mock rib (knit 18 rows if using a ribber). (Hint: If you leave a really long tail at the beginning of your MC knitting you can use this to sew the neck together and then sew the chest piece to the back piece on one side.) Bring non-working needles forward. To hang hem, take 1st row of MC yarn (near the waste yarn) and hang on empty needles that you just brought forward. You now have 60 needles in working position. Change tension to 5 and knit 86 rows for the body. (Increase or decrease the length of the sweater here.) Decrease 4 stitches (2 stitches on each side) every other row 6 times (see * below). End at about row 98. Cast off loosely. Remove waste yarn and steam block the back. * I use a full fashioned increase so that the knitting doesn’t roll as much. Use the 2 prong transfer tool and then the 3 prong transfer tool so that I don’t end up with 3 stitches on one needle. Repeat on other side. Push back the two needles on each side that are now empty. Chest (knit from the navel to the neck) Tension 4 (**The chest is shorter than the back especially for bucklings!**) Cast on with waste yarn every other needle 16 stitches. (CO 32 stitches if using a ribber). Hang weights, knit a few rows. Change to MC, knit 16 rows of mock rib (8 rows of regular ribbing). Bring non-working needles forward and hang hem. (You now have 32 needles in work) Change tension to 5 and knit for 34 rows. (Increase or decrease the chest length here) Decrease 4 stitches (2 stitches on each side) every other row 2 times. (see * above) Decrease 2 stitches (1 stitch on each side) every other row until you have 4 or 5 stitches left. Gather the last 4 or 5 stitches on the tail. Leave the tail long so you can use it to sew the sides together. Remove the waste knitting on the chest piece. Steam block the chest piece. Steam blocking makes it easier to sew together because the edges don’t curl. Sew the neck ribbing together. Fit the point of the chest (where you gathered) into the neck. Use the long tail from the chest piece for one side. Sew down the side until you reach the end of the increases. Leave a 2”-3” hole for the leg (I leave a 3” hole for our Saanens). Then continue to sew through the end of the ribbing. Sew from the neck down on the other side, using the tail from the neck ribbing and leaving a hole for the legs at the end of the increases..
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