Namibia, , and Victoria Falls

4-20 September 2009

Lioness with cub in Etosha (L. Kay)

Report by guide Josh Engel Photos by Larry Kay and Josh Engel All photos taken on this tour

A Tropical Birding custom tour

Introduction

This trip had a little of everything: adventure, culture, and history; deserts and rivers, mountains and swamps; good food and great people; and lots and lots of and mammals. September is a great month in . It is the end of the dry season and birds and mammals are desperate for water, so they gather in great numbers at Namibia, Botswana, and Victoria Falls, 2 waterholes. This is a dream for watchers and photographers, as herds of elephants, prides of lions, and huge flocks of weavers, larks, and sandgrouse gather to drink.

But Namibia is about more than that, a country rich in culture and stunning scenery. On this trip, we included kayaking with seals and dolphins in Walvis Bay; a visit to the amazing Twyfelfontein rock engravings, made by the native bushmen thousands of years ago; a day of tracking Damara black rhinos through the Namib Desert; unbelievable mammal-watching in Etosha; sunset boat trips on the Okavango River; and the grand finale, a visit to Victoria Falls.

It was a successful trip by any measure. The photography was superb—there is no doubt that Namibia in September is one of the best wildlife photography destinations in the world. We saw over 330 birds (among them: Hartlaub’s Francolin, Herero Chat, Dune Lark, Violet Wood-hoopoe, Rockrunner, Burchell’s Courser, Pel’s Fishing Owl, Chirping and Luapula , Shelley’s ) and over 40 mammals. We had some excellent adventures, both planned and unplanned. And a few more people got introduced to the wonders of southwest .

Carmine Bee-eaters at colony (L. Kay)

The Highlands

We started the tour in Namibia’s highland capital, Windhoek. No sooner had we left the airport that we found a Lilac-breasted Roller perched atop a bear tree—not a bad way to start a trip. Our hotel was well situated just on the edge of the Kalahari scrub, so an afternoon walk revealed our first birds characteristic of this habitat, including Chestnut- vented Tit-Babbler and Long-tailed Paradise- and Shaft-tailed Whydah . With plenty of sunlight remaining, we headed to the local sewage works, where a wide variety of

www.tropicalbirding.com Namibia, Botswana, and Victoria Falls, Zambia 3 waterbirds awaited us, including Hottentot Teal , South African Shelduck , Comb Duck , and the nomadic Lesser Moorhen .

We had heard a Rockrunner singing in the distance the first day, so our second day began with a morning search of the same area. In little time we had great looks at this charismatic doing just as its name suggests, but sitting still long enough to be photographed. Further explorations in the area revealed, among others, Acacia Pied Barbet and Gray Go-away-bird .

Rockrunner in its preferred habitat near Windhoek (L. Kay)

We stayed in the highlands, stopping on the way to the coast at a guest farm above Spreethoogte Pass. The drive to the farm was punctuated by some great birding, including a flock of Chestnut Weaver , great looks at Short-toed Rock Thrush, Southern Anteating Chat , and Ashy Tit while we ate lunch in a dry riverbed.

We took a walk upon arriving at the farm, which yielded Groundscaper Thrush, Common Scimitarbill, Rosy-faced Lovebird , and a variety of finches. The farm dam was full of birds, including Maccoa Duck and Southern Pochard , while a small herd of blesbok slowly made their way down for an evening drink.

We took a gorgeous pre-breakfast walk through rocky habitat before departing the farm, finding Bokmakierie , the wonderful White-tailed Shrike , point-blank looks at a singing Long-billed Pipit , and our first of many rock hyrax that we would see throughout the trip.

The Coast

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We left the farm and descended Spreethoogte Pass. Near the bottom of the pass I was shocked to see a Herero Chat perched on top of a roadside bush. We grounded to a halt, got out, and ended up with great looks at this very tough Namib escarpment endemic. Continuing through the desert to the coast, Eileen spotted a pair of Rueppell’s Korhaans by the roadside; when we got out to have a look we found a flock of Stark’s Larks skulking in the grass. Ostriches found nowhere to hide in the midday heat. Raptors provided other highlights, including a light-morph Booted Eagle , Greater Kestrel , and a group of three adult Black-chested Buzzard Eagles soaring together.

The most difficult of all the escarpment specialties, we had great views of this Herero Chat (L. Kay)

After lunch in Walvis Bay, we birded around the south end of the Walvis Bay Lagoon. Very quickly we found one of our main quarries, the rare and beautiful Chestnut-banded Plover . Large flocks of flamingoes contained huge numbers of young birds, indicating a successful breeding season the previous year, and were made up of both Lesser and Greater Flamingoes. Shorebirds were plentiful in the saltpans, and we saw a number of migrant and resident waders, including some beautiful Little Stints still in breeding plumage.

The following morning we set off for kayaking at the mouth of the Walvis Bay Lagoon. Before we set off, we saw a White-chinned Petrel fly by offshore, while some African Black Oystercatchers fed nearby. On the water, we saw the endemic Heavside’s dolphin , although the lone individual wasn’t overly friendly, as well as some actively feeding bottlenose dolphins. The Cape fur seals were their usual playful selves, frolicking around the kayaks, coming up unexpectedly alongside the boats. The drive

www.tropicalbirding.com Namibia, Botswana, and Victoria Falls, Zambia 5 back to town was punctuated by a small group of Red-necked Phalarope alongside many other shorebirds and large numbers of flamingoes.

A quick run up to salt works north of Swakopmund in the afternoon yielded several shorebird species we hadn’t yet seen, best of which was a gorgeous breeding-plumaged Bar-tailed Godwit .

Dune Lark in its sandy habitat (L. Kay)

Our final morning on the coast began in the desert, on the edge of the red dunes. Very quickly we found our quarry, the endemic Dune Lark , singing, displaying, feeding, and generally showing off for us. A quick stop on the way back by the guano platform yielded both Crowned and the rare Bank Cormorant , and stopping by the Swakop River mouth on the way into Swakopmund we found Cape Shoveler. Heading inland, but before leaving the coastal plain, we finally came across our first Karoo Chats .

Erongo and Damaraland

Our first taste of the region was a lunch stop along the Khan River, but before we even reached the river we found an amazingly photogenic Lilac-breasted Roller. The woodlands along the river were nearly silent while we were eating, but during a short walk afterwards we found where the birds were hiding. A Pearl-spotted Owlet came in to my whistling, and brought with it a mass of birds including Carp’s Tit . Searching further, we had great looks at many new birds, including Brown-crowned Tchagra, a gorgeous pair of Bearded Woodpecker , and an obliging group of Green-winged Pytlia.

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Continuing on to Omaruru, we ground to a halt for our first Monteiro’s Hornbill ; while admiring its huge red bill a pair of magnificent Lappet-faced Vultures lazily passed overhead.

Crimson-breasted Shrikes were seen a number of times throughout the trip (L. Kay)

As we were preparing to go out for the afternoon, a flock of Violet Wood-hoopoes surprised us by passing through the hotel grounds. Just next to the hotel a mixed finch flock contained a couple of Violet-eared Waxbills molting into breeding plumage. A perfectly lit Marico Sunbird fed in a flowering tree nearby as well.

Heading to the edge of the Erongo Mountains we screeched to a stop in time to have great views of a Red-crested Korhaan cautiously crossing the road. Rock hyrax and Chacma baboons ran across the rocks, and we enjoyed trying to photograph Yellow- billed and Monteiro’s Hornbill s. Pearl-breasted Swallows , returning migrants, perched cooperatively on a roadside wire. We returned to the hotel with sun setting behind us.

We began the following morning with great views of an adorable African Scops-Owl singing away in the hotel grounds. We left the hotel and headed for the mountains. We heard Hartlaub’s Francolins , but they proved elusive for the time being. Our first Barred Wren-Warbler was much more cooperative, and we got great looks at White- tailed Shrike , a breeding-plumaged male Violet-eared Waxbill , and a displaying Brown-crowned Tchagra .

A walk around town after breakfast was lovely. Larry spotted a Pearl-spotted Owlet which posed for photos, while nearby a lone Southern Pied Babbler was unusually cooperative, perching for several minutes atop an agave stalk.

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An afternoon walk in the Khan River was quiet, but we did get great looks at the sought- after Violet Wood-hoopoe , as well as our first Damara Red-billed Hornbill . A night drive along a local dirt road was wonderfully productive. We had great looks at a Southern White-faced Scops-Owl and nice looks at a flying Barn Owl . We got out of the car at one point and heard the bizarre screaming calls of Jameson’s red rock rabbit , and I remarked how difficult it is to actually see. Well just a few seconds later we had awesome looks at this seldom-seen nocturnal denizen of rocky outcrops right along the road!

For our final morning in the area, we returned to the mountains. It took a scramble up the boulder-strewn slopes, but that made our brilliant view of a singing female Hartlaub’s Francolin all the more satisfying. A Shikra flew across the road on our return to the hotel.

Another tricky escarpment endemic, we did well to see this female Hartlaub’s Francolin so well (L. Kay)

We then headed off towards the northwest, to the barren deserts of Damaraland. It turned out to be a birdy drive. We screeched to a halt for a close and gorgeous pair of Secretarybirds stalking the arid . Our first Desert Cisticola and Southern White-crowned Shrike perched in roadside scrub. The trip’s only Benguela Long- billed Lark came surprisingly easily, perching up for us on a roadside rock. Nearing Twyfelfontein, we stopped in at a nearby campsite where the hoped-for Bare-cheeked Babblers awaited us, while Damara Red-billed and Southern Yellow-billed Hornbills fought for braai scraps.

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We spent the afternoon enjoying the magnificent rock engravings of Twyfelfontein, while an Augur Buzzard soared overhead. As we left, a beautiful Barnard’s Namib day gecko scrambled over a rock, pausing long enough to have its photo taken, and a striking male Namib rock agama was even more photogenic.

The most famous of the rock engravings at Twyfelfontein is the lion man (J. Engel)

The following morning was an early one; we left in the dark to make it to our next lodge in time for a day of tracking desert rhinos. Sarah was sick: it was a sign. Thus began a most interesting day in the desert. We set off, a little late, on our search for the rare Damara black rhino. We saw some great birds, including Orange River Francolin , Greater Painted-Snipe , Double-banded Sandgrouse , and flock after flock of Rosy- faced Lovebirds . We also sat in the desert, in our broken down vehicle, for much of the middle of the day. The trackers went missing, since we missed our rendezvous with them after the Land Rover broke down. The vehicle, driven by a mechanic, that came to rescue us got a flat tire, and had no spare. Luckily, we had plenty of water and food. Then the mechanic fixed our vehicle (a screwdriver and a rock go a long way in bush). Then we set off in search of the trackers. Just before turning back, we found them. Then we found the rhinos! It was a long, exhausting, satisfying day in the Namib. We returned to the lodge well after dark for dinner and a well-deserved drink.

A lie-in was in order for the next morning. When we got up, Kaokoveld rock hyrax were scurrying over the rock below our rooms. As we left the lodge, a gorgeous Verreaux’s Eagle soared over the valley.

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This cuddly group of Kaokoveld Rock Hyrax (note the cream-colored spot on the back) was under our rooms at Grootberg Lodge (J. Engel)

Etosha National Park

One of Africa’s great national parks, we entered with great anticipation. No sooner had we entered that we saw the four most common ungulates in the park: impala, zebra, springbok, and oryx . Giraffe soon followed, munching on flowers of the dry-season blooming Acacia nebrownii . We ate our lunch by the waterhole enjoying the antics of the Sociable Weavers , and then headed back out for the evening. Pygmy Falcon was soon spotted sitting atop a branch—we saw no fewer than four of this beautiful little falcon on the drive. A juvenile Gabar Goshawk was another raptor highlight. We also watched with rapt attention two huge male rock monitor lizards in full battle, biting, clawing, and wrestling in the dust.

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Rock monitors in battle (L. Kay)

Everything paled, however, compared to what we found at Okandeka waterhole. An entire pride of lions awaited us: five beautiful, healthy adult females, five playful cubs, and a fully-maned adult male, who the females were none too pleased to see. We spent half-an-hour watching and photographing the king of beasts, before it was time to return to camp. After dinner, we returned to the waterhole, where four black rhinos were drinking—two females and their attendant young, one just having been born during the previous rainy season. Soon a giant bull elephant showed up, drank his dozens of liters, and sauntered off. Finally, it was bed time.

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Mother and baby rhino visiting Okaukuejo waterhole at night (L. Kay)

We started the next morning at the camp’s waterhole, then eventually made our way to Halali Camp. The waterholes were filled with . We found a flock of Burchell’s Coursers actively feeding , and Chestnut-backed Sparrowlarks were fairly common. New raptors included Martial Eagle and Hooded Vulture , and we also got great looks at Greater Kestrel . We encountered another lone bull elephant .

After lunch at Halali, our new friend Philemon showed us a pair of roosting Southern White-faced Scops-Owls , and later a roosting African Scops-Owl .

I had received a call in the morning from Ken Behrens, who was guiding another Tropical Birding group, that they had found a pride of lions on a kill . It was pretty far from our camp, but we decided to go for it. We set off across the park, stopping quickly for our first red hartebeest and enjoying a very close herd of elephants with some very small babies. Eventually we made it to the sight where we immediately found a massive dead bull giraffe and a completely exhausted pride of lions, each one with a distended belly from gorging themselves on giraffe meat. The ride back was equally eventful. We found several close herds of elephant , including some fascinating interactions between a few males of varying ages and sizes. We also saw three different spotted hyenas preparing themselves for their nighttime activities.

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Up close with a bull elephant (L. Kay)

We sat for a while at the camp’s waterhole after dinner. As soon as we got there, a black rhino was already drinking. A steenbok waited nervously near the water’s edge, eventually giving up before getting a drink. Two spotted hyenas were much bolder, drinking at will. We watched in amazement as a Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl flew in and caught a mouse, sitting with it in its bill for a few minutes before flying off.

Our final full day in Etosha was a relaxing one. We started out with a morning drive, quickly finding a male lion near a waterhole. It made some half-roar, half-moaning noises while we watched; when it stood it was clearly injured, favoring its front left leg. Nonetheless, it was intimidating enough that no animals were getting close to the waterhole. The same waterhole hosted a small flock of migrating South African Cliff Swallows , while our first Red-breasted Swallows were nearby. Spotted hyenas walked along the pan’s edge elsewhere, and on our way back for breakfast two female lions walked purposefully across the open plains.

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Unhappy male lion (L. Kay)

After breakfast we paid a visit to the camp’s waterhole, where black-faced impala, kudu, and red hartebeest were all drinking. We watched young kudu and impala sparring, practicing for their big moment. Birds were abundant, including our first Golden-breasted and Cinnamon-breasted Buntings , and large numbers of Black- throated Canary, Great Sparrow, Red-headed Finch , and others.

We spent the heat of the day enjoying Halali Camp’s swimming pool, before setting out again for a short afternoon drive. We watched a male Kori Bustard iu full display, its neck massively puffed out, making bizarre rasping noises, as four females fed in the surrounding grass. We then spent time admiring two huge bull elephants at very close range at a pan-edge waterhole. We finished off the day with a night drive from camp. Heading out, we stopped to watch more elephants in the dark. While we were watching them, we heard something rustling the grass next to the vehicle and looked over to see an African Wild Cat . The cat then rushed into thicker grass and came out with a mouse in its mouth!

Further encounters with elephants included a young male making a variety of threats at the vehicle and several spotted hyenas looking for prey in the grasslands. Our ride back to camp was punctuated excellent looks at a gorgeous small-spotted genet , many close views of Spotted Eagle-Owl, and a few quick ones of Spotted Thick-knee.

For our last morning in Etosha, we packed up after breakfast and headed east towards the park gate. We mostly concentrated on getting towards the eastern part of the park, where we had not yet been. We did stop again by the giraffe kill that we first saw two days previously. There was a lot less of the giraffe left, but no lions to be seen. We did, however, see a family of lions as we drove towards Kalkheuwel waterhole. The

www.tropicalbirding.com Namibia, Botswana, and Victoria Falls, Zambia 14 waterhole itself was full of animals, including mud-bathing warthogs and large mixed flocks of Red-billed Quelea and Shaft-tailed Whydah .

This African Scops Owl was roosting near our rooms in Halali Camp (L. Kay)

After stopping in for a bathroom break at Namutoni Camp, we decided to check a couple of waterholes to the north of the camp. En route we found a mass of adorable banded mongoose , lying prostrate on the road in the shade of a small bush. Our car apparently provided even better shade, however, as several wandered over to lay directly under us. We carefully moved on, particularly in search of elephants. And elephants we found—a herd of them bathing, tossing mud on themselves, drinking, and dusting themselves around a small waterhole. It was a fitting final encounter with the world’s largest land .

We ate lunch by the Namutoni waterhole, where a Greater Painted-Snipe was among a variety of shorebirds in attendance, before working out way towards the exit gate. We made one last waterhole stop on the way out, finding no fewer than 27 giraffes gathered around, including two males fighting in their typical neck-swinging style. Our first eland for the trip were also huddled in the shade behind the waterhole. Etosha never stopped giving, and even as we (finally) neared the gate we added one more new mammal, Namibia’s smallest antelope, the adorable Damara dik-dik .

The long road east: rivers, swamps, and Victoria Falls

We left Etosha and passed through Tsumeb and Grootfontein before pulling into our evening’s destination: Roy’s Camp. Before we even reached the entrance gate, we had seen the bird that made Roy’s famous, the rare Black-faced Babbler . With that easy

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Black-faced Babbler was surprisingly easy on this tour (L. Kay)

We took a short walk around the grounds the next morning, with the bodacious Black- faced Babblers following our every move. We also had great looks a variety of other birds, including Southern White-crowned Shrike, Southern Red-billed Hornbill, and White-browed Scrub-Robin .

We left after breakfast, heading north into the Kavango Region, making it to our lodge on the Okavango River for lunch. After a rest and a swim with the lodge’s pet otter, we met up again and hung out on the lodge’s lawn, where loads of birds were taking advantage of the sprinklers and bird baths. Arrow-marked Babblers fed on the lawn, a Bradfield’s Hornbill flew into the huge teak that dominates the yard, and a stunning male Violet- backed Starling came to drink alongside a Black-headed Oriole .

Finally it was time to set out to the river’s edge for our evening boat trip. We quickly found some of the swamp’s songbird specialties, with good looks at Chirping Cisticola and many quick flyovers of an agitated pair of Greater Swamp-Warblers . African Skimmers were still nesting on exposed sandbanks, where many gorgeous Collared Pratincoles were also resting. Coppery-tailed Coucals haunted the riverside papyrus. With the river’s level low, waterbirds were abundant. We soon picked up Rufous- bellied Heron, African Snipe, African Openbill, and many other waders. We had great looks at several species of kingfisher , including a cooperative Giant. Eventually we worked our way downriver, maneuvering ourselves around the area’s large group of hippos , and tied ourselves to a riverside bush next to an unbelievable colony of Southern Carmine Bee-eaters . With 1,500 nests on the adjacent bank, we were surrounded by a tornado of red and blue bee-eaters. The tornado increased in density when a Red-necked Falcon swooped in and unsuccessfully chased a few bee-eaters, one of the few times our

www.tropicalbirding.com Namibia, Botswana, and Victoria Falls, Zambia 16 local guide had ever seen a raptor try to take a carmine. It was a spectacular way to end the day: cold beer in hand, thousands of carmine-bee eaters swirling about, and a spectacular sunset over the hippo-filled Okavango River.

Not bats, these are Carmine Bee-eaters. They were freaked out about the Red-necked Falcon that had just tried to catch one for dinner (J. Engel)

The next morning started with a bang: we got great views of the local African Barred Owlet as it sang next to the lodge. Adding a bit of seed to the patio bird tables, a couple of Red-billed Firefinches joined the hordes of Blue Waxbills and Green-winged Pytilias.

After breakfast we headed towards Botswana, with a stop planned for the fantastic Mahango Game Reserve. At the reserve entrance, a stunning male Red-headed Weaver was working on his nest. Making our way to the Okavango floodplain, a herd of eight giraffes sprinted in front of the car with their ungainly gait. Reaching the floodplain, many waterbirds were taking advantage of the low-water pools, including Slaty Egret and Saddle-billed Stork . A large flock of Marabou Storks was circling overhead, along with White-backed and Lappet-faced Vultures and a single newly-arrived Wahlberg’s Eagle .

Mammals were abundant in Mahango, as they usually are. We saw our only Cape buffalo here, as well as several new antelope, including the swamp specialist red lechwe and many southern reedbuck . We found several pairs of the spectacular Wattled Crane , and large groups of wading birds, including Black Heron , Little Egret , Purple Heron , Yellow-billed Egret , and Goliath Heron. We ate our punch packs carefully, as a few baboons hovered nearby.

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This beautiful Red-headed Weaver was busy working on his new nest (L. Kay)

We crossed over into Botswana and traveled through to Shakawe Lodge, on the banks of the Okavango River along the Delta’s panhandle. As usual, the place was full of birds, but we took a rest before exploring the lodge’s avian riches. Among the first birds we found after setting out were Meyer’s Parrots chowing on jackleberry flowers. We quickly found Hartlaub’s Babbler , African Green Pigeon, Malachite Kingfisher, Southern Brown-throated Weaver , and many others.

We had another afternoon boat trip on the Okavango, and we had our work cut out for us: the mission was to find White-backed Night-Heron and Pel’s Fishing Owl , two rare, shy denizens of these swamps and the area’s two most sought-after birds. Off we went, enjoying the cool river breeze in our face. We pulled up next to a dense bush, our first attempt at the night-heron, which likes to roost in the bush’s depths. Our intense scanning proved fruitful—there they were! With so many branches in the way, we had to view the birds in bits and pieces, but eventually we got great looks.

Then is was on to search for the real prize, the owl. We were lucky—just the day before another Tropical Birding group had been here, and after an epic search they eventually found a roosting owl. With this fresh info in hand, we arrived at the tree. The Pel’s was still there! We admired and photographed the huge ginger owl before it was time to head back to the lodge.

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There’s a Pel’s Fishing Owl lurking in the middle of the frame (L. Kay)

Not finished yet, we had to try for one more owl, and after about half-a-second of playback, an African Wood Owl came screeching in, posing beautifully on a bare branch.

We woke up the next morning and enjoyed a hot coffee while doing some birding along the lodge’s riverfront. We quickly found our first African Mourning Doves and Crested Barbet , and had further great looks at the striking plumage and blue eyes of African Green Pigeon. After breakfast, we bid farewell to Botswana, crossed back into Namibia, saw a herd of sable antelope as we passed back through Mahango, and headed eastwards again on the long, straight road across the Caprivi Strip. We made a few quick stops along the way, seeing Dark Chanting Goshawk, African Harrier-Hawk , Magpie Shrike, and Striped Kingfisher , before arriving at our lodge on one of Africa’s other great rivers: the Zambezi.

After refreshing ourselves in the pool (where our first White-rumped and Common Swifts flew overhead with a large flock of Little Swifts and Lesser Striped Swallows ), we took a short walk along the river. In no time, we found the lodge’s most famous avian resident, a male Shelley’s Sunbird . Along the river we scoped White-crowned Lapwing , while the thickets held a flock of Brown Twinspots and a gorgeous Orange- breasted Bush-Shrike. We watched the sun set over the Zambezi before heading in for dinner.

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We saw hippos in the both the Okavango and Zambezi Rivers (L. Kay)

We took a short walk on the lodge grounds in the morning, finding our first Brown- headed Kingfisher and White-winged Tern , along with superb views of nest-building Lesser Striped-Swallow .

Again we packed the vehicle and set out. We crossed into Zambia—a real African border, that—crossed the Zambezi, and set off on the easy drive to Livingstone. We headed straight to Victoria Falls, eating lunch at a picnic table at the falls parking lot while keeping a wary eye on the resident baboons. The falls were spectacular, even now at the end of the dry season. Mist was in the air, but the view of the falls was crystal clear. (As were the views of Trumpeter Hornbill!) .

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Looking into at Victoria Falls (J. Engel)

Now it was time for real adventure, as we set out for the Victoria Falls bridge. Sarah and I paid our fees, walked half way across the bridge, got tied up to a bungee cord (in turn), and jumped headlong into the gorge.

After that adrenaline-laced interlude, we made our way to our lodge, gorgeously situated on the rim of Batoka Gorge, overlooking the Zambezi River hundreds of meters below, with a Peregrine Falcon overseeing our arrival.

Sadly, our last morning of the tour had arrived. We still managed several new species on a short walk, including Village Indigobird and Jameson’s Firefinch. Finally we had to pack up one last time and we said our goodbyes at the Livingstone airport—the Kays to fly back to the US and me to drive back to Windhoek.

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Sunset over hippos and the Okavango (J. Engel)

BIRD LIST follows Roberts Birds of Southern Africa, VIIth Ed. PAR Hockey, WRJ Dean, and PG Ryan, eds. Trustees of the John Voelker Bird Book Fund, 2005.

Common Ostrich Struthio camelus It's always great to see these giants striding through the desert grasslands of the Namib. Crested Francolin Dendroperdix sephaena Seen once at Shamvura. Orange River Francolin Scleroptila levaillantoides It was great to see this tough endemic while out rhino tracking. Hartlaub's Spurfowl Pternistis hartlaubi With some effort, we finally found this rock-loving endemic atop rocky mountain near Omaruru. Red-billed Spurfowl Pternistis adspersus Swainson's Spurfowl Pternistis swainsonii Heard only at Vic Falls Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris White-faced Duck Dendrocygna viduata Maccoa Duck Oxyura maccoa I was surprised to find this species at the dam on Namibgrens Guest Farm. Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca South African Shelduck Tadorna cana Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Cape Teal Anas capensis Cape Shoveler Anas smithii

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Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma Golden-tailed Woodpecker Campethera abingoni Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens Bearded Woodpecker Dendropicos namaquus Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus Acacia Pied Barbet Tricholaema leucomelas Black-collared Barbet Lybius torquatus Crested Barbet Trachyphonus vaillantii Monteiro's Hornbill Tockus monteiri We saw this near-endemic hornbill well several times near Omaruru. (Southern) Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus Damara (Red-billed) Hornbill Tockus damarensis Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus leucomelas Bradfield's Hornbill Tockus bradfieldi We got lucky and saw this near-endemic a couple of times, first at Shamvura. African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus Trumpeter Hornbill Bycanistes bucinator We tore our eyes off Vic Falls to look at a pair along the gorge opposite the falls. African Hoopoe Upupa africana Violet Wood-Hoopoe Phoeniculus damarensis A party came through the garden of our hotel in Omaruru. Common Scimitarbill Rhinopomastus cyanomelas Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus Purple Roller Coracias naevius Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata Brown-hooded Kingfisher Halcyon albiventris Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maximus Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis White-fronted Bee-eater Merops bullockoides Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus Southern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicoides An undoubted highlight of the trip was watching a massive colony of these incredible birds along the Okavango River near Shamvura. Not only were there thousands of bee-eaters flying around, but we watched as a Red-necked Falcon tried to catch one for its own dinner. White-backed Mousebird Colius colius Red-faced Mousebird Urocolius indicus Coppery-tailed Coucal Centropus cupreicaudus Several were seen well along the Okavango. Burchell's Coucal Centropus burchellii One was heard along the river in Omaruru. Meyer's Parrot Poicephalus meyeri These were a constant companion in the trees around Shakawe Lodge. Rosy-faced Lovebird Agapornis roseicollis Incredible numbers were seen during our day of rhino tracking in Damaraland.

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African Palm-Swift Cypsiurus parvus Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba Common Swift Apus apus African Black Swift Apus barbatus Many were flying around Batoka Gorge at our hotel near Vic Falls. Bradfield's Swift Apus bradfieldi Some great views of this near endemic, including drinking from Avis Dam in Windhoek. Little Swift Apus affinis White-rumped Swift Apus caffer Grey Go-away-bird Corythaixoides concolor Barn Owl Tyto alba Seen flying over a waterhole at night in Etosha. African Scops-Owl Otus senegalensis First seen in the darkness in Omaruru, we would later see one roosting in Etosha. Southern White-faced Scops-Owl Ptilopsis granti Seen on a night drive near Omaruru, then again roosting in Etosha. Spotted Eagle-Owl Bubo africanus Many seen well on a night drive in Etosha. Verreaux's Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus One visited a waterhole at night in Etosha. Pel's Fishing-Owl Scotopelia peli Always a trip highlight, we saw one roosting in a huge tree near the town of Shakawe. African Wood-Owl Strix woodfordii Great views of one of the resident pair at Shakawe Lodge. Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum African Barred Owlet Glaucidium capense Another lodge resident, we saw it at Shamvura where it had been coming every morning and evening. Rock Dove Columba livia Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens Cape Turtle-Dove Streptopelia capicola Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur chalcospilos Namaqua Dove Oena capensis African Green-Pigeon Treron calvus Great views of these incredible blue-eyed birds at Shakawe. Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori Many in Etosha, including an incredible male in its puff-necked displaying glory. Red-crested Korhaan Lophotis ruficrista Northern Black Korhaan Afrotis afraoides Rüppell's Korhaan Eupodotis rueppellii Seen well on the drive through the Namib between Solitaire and Walvis Bay. Wattled Crane Bugeranus carunculatus Several pairs seen in Mahango, including one pair at fairly close range. Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris African Purple Swamphen Porphyrio madagascariensis Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

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Lesser Moorhen Gallinula angulata Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata Namaqua Sandgrouse Pterocles namaqua Double-banded Sandgrouse Pterocles bicinctus African Snipe Gallinago nigripennis Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica Common Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Sanderling Calidris alba Little Stint Calidris minuta Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Ruff Philomachus pugnax Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus A small group of this local rarity were in the Walvis Bay salt pans. Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis We saw this well several times in Etosha. African Jacana Actophilornis africanus Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis African Black Oystercatcher Haematopus moquini We saw this endemic shorebird well while kayaking with the fur seals. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris Chestnut-banded Plover Charadrius pallidus We saw this uncommon species very nicely in Walvis Bay. White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus Long-toed Lapwing Vanellus crassirostris Blacksmith Lapwing Vanellus armatus White-crowned Lapwing Vanellus albiceps There were always a couple across the Zambezi from our hotel near Katima Mulilo. Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus Double-banded Courser Rhinoptilus africanus Burchell's Courser Cursorius rufus Always a sought-after species, we saw flocks of this nomad twice in Etosha. Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola We had beautiful views of this odd shorebird at Shamvura. African Skimmer Rynchops flavirostris They were still nesting along the Okavango near Shamvura and along the Zambezi at Kalizo Lodge. Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Grey-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus Hartlaub's Gull Larus hartlaubii

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Caspian Tern Sterna caspia Swift Tern Sterna bergii Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis Common Tern Sterna hirundo White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus One molting out of breeding plumage was seen along the Zambezi. Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptus African Fish-Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus One was in Etosha, where it is uncommon. White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis Black-chested Snake-Eagle Circaetus pectoralis Brown Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinereus Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus African Marsh-Harrier Circus ranivorus African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus One Lizard Buzzard was seen well from the boat at Shakawe. Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates Seen well while driving through the Caprivi Strip. Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk Melierax canorus The most common raptor of the trip, they are a common roadside sight in Namibia. Gabar Goshawk Melierax gabar Shikra Accipiter badius Augur Buzzard Buteo augur Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax Verreauxs' Eagle Aquila verreauxii Very cool views of one soaring over the canyon in front of Grootberg Lodge. African Hawk-Eagle Aquila spilogaster We had great views several times, first near Namibgrens. Booted Eagle Aquila pennatus Wahlberg's Eagle Aquila wahlbergi Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius We saw this wonderful and weird bird several times, including a pair in Etosha. Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus Always a tough one to track down, we saw several males in Etosha. Rock Kestrel Falco rupicolus Greater Kestrel Falco rupicoloides Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera We saw it first in Etosha, but more exciting was seeing it chasing Carmine Bee-eaters at their colony near Shamvura. Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis

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African Darter Anhinga rufa Reed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus Crowned Cormorant Phalacrocorax coronatus White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax lucidus Bank Cormorant Phalacrocorax neglectus We picked out one of these rare comorants at the guano platform near Walvis. Cape Cormorant Phalacrocorax capensis Slaty Egret Egretta vinaceigula Seen on the Okavango floodplain in Mahango. Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca Little Egret Egretta garzetta Yellow-billed Egret Egretta intermedia A group of six herons comprised of five species at Mahango included one of these. Great Egret Egretta alba Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Goliath Heron Ardea goliath Only one of these giants was seen, in Mahango. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Rufous-bellied Heron Ardeola rufiventris Seen well in flight near Shamvura. Green-backed Heron Butorides striata Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax White-backed Night-Heron Gorsachius leuconotus We had little time to look, but we still managed to find this secretive bird roosting along the Okavango. Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus Several seen near Shamvura, including great looks at a juvenile. Hamerkop Scopus umbretta Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus African Spoonbill Platalea alba Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis African Openbill Anastomus lamelligerus Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis First seen in Mahango, we saw it better near Katima Mulilo. Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus White-chinned Petrel Procellaria aequinoctialis One flew past while we were setting out on kayaks in Walvis Bay. Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis Brubru Nilaus afer Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla Seen several times, and Larry and I watched one displaying, fully puffed, at Kalizo Lodge. Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis Swamp Boubou Laniarius bicolor

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Tropical Boubou Laniarius aethiopicus Heard only at Vic Falls. Crimson-breasted Shrike Laniarius atrococcineus We had many great views of the beautiful Kalahari specialty. Bokmakierie Telophorus zeylonus Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike Telophorus sulfureopectus Great views of this stunner at Kalizo Lodge. White-tailed Shrike Lanioturdus torquatus Many great views of this charismatic and beautiful Escarpment endemic. Chinspot Batis Batis molitor Pririt Batis Batis pririt Cape Crow Corvus capensis Pied Crow Corvus albus Common Fiscal Lanius collaris Magpie Shrike Corvinella melanoleuca Southern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus anguitimens Grey Penduline-Tit Anthoscopus caroli Southern Black Tit Parus niger Carp's Tit Parus carpi First seen mobbing a Pearl-spotted Owlet where we ate lunch in the Khan riverbed. Ashy Tit Parus cinerascens Brown-throated Martin Riparia paludicola Grey-rumped Swallow Pseudhirundo griseopyga White-throated Swallow Hirundo albigularis Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii Pearl-breasted Swallow Hirundo dimidiata Greater Striped Swallow Hirundo cucullata Lesser Striped Swallow Hirundo abyssinica Red-breasted Swallow Hirundo semirufa South African Cliff-Swallow Hirundo spilodera We were surprised by a small flock of these birds migrating through Etosha. Rock Martin Hirundo fuligula Dark-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus tricolor African Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus nigricans Yellow-bellied Greenbul Chlorocichla flaviventris Terrestrial Brownbul Phyllastrephus terrestris Rockrunner Achaetops pycnopygius This bird is always a highlight of any Namibia tour; we had stunning views near our hotel in Windhoek. Long-billed Crombec Sylvietta rufescens Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis Burnt-necked Eremomela Eremomela usticollis Greater Swamp-Warbler Acrocephalus rufescens Lesser Swamp-Warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris Black-faced Babbler Turdoides melanops Sometimes difficult to find, they were very easy this trip, seemingly following us around at Roy's Camp. Hartlaub's Babbler Turdoides hartlaubii Southern Pied Babbler Turdoides bicolor We watched one uncharacteristically sitting atop an agave for several minutes in Omaruru.

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Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii A party of these came through the yard at Shamvura. Bare-cheeked Babbler Turdoides gymnogenys First seen near Twyfelfontein, they were also common while we were out desert rhino tracking. Layard's Tit-Babbler Parisoma layardi Never easy in Namibia, we watched one sitting up singing at Namibgrens. Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler Parisoma subcaeruleum African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana Grey-backed Cisticola Cisticola subruficapilla Luapula Cisticola Cisticola luapula This swanp specialty was first seen briefly at Shamvura, then better in Mahango. Chirping Cisticola Cisticola pipiens Another swamp specialty, we saw this one well at Shamvura. Desert Cisticola Cisticola aridulus Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava Black-chested Prinia Prinia flavicans Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata Barred Wren-Warbler Calamonastes fasciolatus Sabota Lark Calendulauda sabota Dune Lark Calendulauda erythrochlamys We had great views of several individuals of Namibia's lone true endemic--singing, displaying, feeding, and chasing each others through the red dunes. Spike-heeled Lark Chersomanes albofasciata Benguela Long-billed Lark Certhilauda benguelensis We were lucky to bump into one of these along the road to Twyfelfontein. Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark Eremopterix leucotis These nomads were common in Etosha. Grey-backed Sparrowlark Eremopterix verticalis Common at various places around the deserts of Namibia; I also gave an avian anatomy lesson to the group on one that we pulled out of the grill of our car. Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea Stark's Lark Spizocorys starki Pink-billed Lark Spizocorys conirostris Short-toed Rock-Thrush Monticola brevipes Groundscraper Thrush Psophocichla litsitsirupa Kurrichane Thrush Turdus libonyanus Chat Flycatcher Bradornis infuscatus Marico Flycatcher Bradornis mariquensis White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini White-browed Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys Kalahari Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas paena Karoo Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas coryphoeus One was resident and very confiding on the lawn of Namibgrens Guest Farm. Herero Chat Namibornis herero The toughest of all the Namibian specialties to find, we were very pleased to find it easily not far from Namibgrens

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African Stonechat Saxicola torquatus Mountain Wheatear Oenanthe monticola Karoo Chat Cercomela schlegelii Tractrac Chat Cercomela tractrac Familiar Chat Cercomela familiaris Ant-eating Chat Myrmecocichla formicivora Pale-winged Starling Onychognathus nabouroup Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio Cape Glossy Starling Lamprotornis nitens Burchell's Starling Lamprotornis australis Meves's Starling Lamprotornis mevesii Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus First seen on the backs of cows near Shamvura, we also later saw them atop giraffes and hippos. Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis White-bellied Sunbird talatala Dusky Sunbird Cinnyris fuscus Shelley's Sunbird Cinnyris shelleyi Great views of a singing male of this rarity at one of the few known locations to see it in southern Africa. Marico Sunbird Cinnyris mariquensis Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver Bubalornis niger Scaly-feathered Finch Sporopipes squamifrons White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali Sociable Weaver Philetairus socius We saw many gargantuan nests along the way, but the residents in Etosha provided up-close and personal views. Lesser Masked-Weaver Ploceus intermedius Golden Weaver Ploceus xanthops Southern Brown-throated Weaver Ploceus xanthopterus Southern Masked-Weaver Ploceus velatus Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus Chestnut Weaver Ploceus rubiginosus We encountered a couple of non-breeding flocks near Namibgrens. Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes melanotis We watched a stunning breeding-plumaged male working on his nest at the entrance to Mahango. Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea Southern Red Bishop Euplectes orix Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris Red-headed Finch Amadina erythrocephala Black-faced Waxbill Estrilda erythronotos Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Violet-eared Waxbill Granatina granatina Blue Waxbill Uraeginthus angolensis Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala Brown Firefinch Lagonosticta nitidula Endemic to south-central Africa, we had great views of a flock feeding on grass near Katima Mulilo. Jameson's Firefinch Lagonosticta rhodopareia

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Long-tailed Paradise-Whydah Vidua paradisaea Shaft-tailed Whydah Vidua regia House Sparrow Passer domesticus Great Sparrow Passer motitensis Cape Sparrow Passer melanurus Southern Grey-headed Sparrow Passer diffusus African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp Cape Wagtail Motacilla capensis African Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis Seen well while singing at Namibgrens. Yellow-fronted Canary Crithagra mozambicus Black-throated Canary Crithagra atrogularis Yellow Canary Crithagra flaviventris White-throated Canary Crithagra albogularis Lark-like Bunting Emberiza impetuani Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberiza tahapisi Cape Bunting Emberiza capensis Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris

MAMMAL LIST

Chacma Baboon Papio ursinus Plenty of baboons on this trip, including a too-close encounter at Vic Falls. Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus aethiops We only encountered them once, in Mahango, where they were evidently rather hungry. Scrub Hare Lepus saxatilis Jameson's Red Rock Rabit Pronolagus randensis Great views of this difficult-to-see animal on a night drive near Omaruru. Ground Squirrel Xerus inauris Striped Tree Squirrel Funisciurus congicus Tree Squirrel Paraxerus cepapi Dassie Rat Petromus typicus Namaqua Rock Mouse Aethomys namaquensis Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas Banded Mongoose Mungos mungo We had a great encounter with a large group in Etosha. Slender Mongoose Galerella sanguinea Black Mongoose Galerella nigrata It was a great surprise to see this uncommon mongoose run across the track while we were out desert rhino tracking. Yellow Mongoose Cynictis penicillata Best seen while copulating near Windhoek. Small-spotted Genet Genetta genetta Great views on a night drive in Etosha. Spotted Hyena Crocuta crocuta A surprisingly large number were seen in Etosha.

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African Wild Cat Felis lybica We watched in amazement as one caught a mouse while we were on a night drive in Etosha. Lion Panthera leo We saw a total of 26 in Etosha, inluding a pride at a recent giraffe kill and a pride of eleven that included five cubs in perfect light. Elephant Loxodonta africana Many great encounters in Etosha. Rock Dassie Procavia capensis Kaokoveld Rock Dassie Procavia welwitschii Seen on the rocky slopes below Grootberg Lodge. Burchell's Zebra Equus burchellii Black Rhino Diceros bicornis It was an amazing end to a crazy day in the desert when we finally saw two desert-adapted black rhinos near Grootberg Lodge. Warthog Phacochoerus aethiopicus Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius Close encounters on the boat at Shakawe. Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis Lots! We watched them drinking, fighting, running, eating… Buffalo Syncerus caffer A couple of distant ones in Mahango. Eland Taurotragus oryx Kudu Tragelaphus strepsiceros Sable Hippotragus niger A herd of this rare antelope was seen as we passed through Mahango. Gemsbok (Oryx) Oryx gazella We saw many of this large, beautiful antelope. Lechwe Kobus leche Reedbuck Redunca fulvorufula Blue Wildebeest Connochaetes taurinus Red Haartebeest Alcelaphus buselaphus Blesbok Damaliscus phillipsi Impala Aepyceros melampus The widespread nominate subspecies was seen in Mahango. (Black-faced) Impala Aepyceros m. petersi This distinctive Namibian subspecies was common in Etosha. Springbok Antidorcas marsuplialis Damara Dikdik Madoqua kirkii Two of these diminutive antelopes were seen on our way out of Etosha. Steenbok Raphicerus campestris Heaviside's Dolphin Cephalorhynchus heavisidii We saw this diminutive endemic dolphin while kayaking in the Walvis Bay lagoon. Bottlenosed Dolphin Tursiops truncatus Seen while kayaking in the Walvis Bay Lagoon. Cape Fur Seal Arctocephalus pusillus Many friendly seals surrounded us while we were kayaking.

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