: Indelible Slides

“That is how I want the days of my coast: with the sun blazing, and the waves quiet, very quiet.”

Jesús Cancio, Cantabrian poet

ome 15,000 or 20,000 years have passed since that long ago S time when a tribe reached these Cantabrian valleys. In those IMPIAS days the tribes which travelled inland from the Cantabrian L And Its Parador coast came in search of game. The climate was very cold, almost glacial, and they lived on big game: roe deer and wild boar.

Their only means of defense were spears and other basic weapons. During battles and migrations, the greatest difficulty lay in transporting the children and elderly unused to such heretofore unknown temperatures: they were the holders of the sacred fire which would ensure them heat and hot meals. Inevitably, the youngest men defended the rearguard. They had to protect themselves from the powerful northeast wind, cold and damp. When they reached the sea they found that its waters were salty, and did not quench their thirst.

But at some point they found food: fallow deer, game, and from the sea, seaweed and mussels. Then they discovered fire: fertile hearths for roasting game – probably fallow deer and even an occasional bison. The fish, grilled golden brown in the embers, must have made them feel as if they were in paradise.

Nor was it difficult for them to discover and find recesses, grottos, and caves in the rocks where they could set up their homes. After the first inhabitants of Santander, there came other tribes which had to fight the already established inhabitants in order to invade their territory.

The area was called kent-áber, place by the sea. In the bay they fished in boats constructed from tar-covered skins stretched over willow brances. They lived in forts, and organized permanent sentry system to guard the coasts. They were very efficient and safe places.

Nevertheless, nothing was enough: one day there came many, many invaders. They came well- equipped, armed with helmets and spears, and advancing to the sound of drums and trumpets. They even had machines to launch destructive stones.

1 They were no longer tribes, but very large armies fully equipped to destroy Virtually this entire area enjoys, suffers and boasts of inexpressible settlements that were brave and uncontrollable, but lacked the resources to vocations, all immensely rich. Some fish, others have their own defend themselves. Almost before the local people knew what had idiosyncrasies such as unique arts and handicrafts, singular customs which happened, the valley was soaked in blood. Rome had arrived, well- are difficult to pass on. Above all, these peaceful residents only sin by established arrogant conqueror of Europe. Navigation was organized: they cushioning the blow. Resigned but not at all mute, they say what they started by mining and transporting tin and copper and even exported think, and think before speaking. valuable malmsey and oil, to Gaul and to Britain. They are a people rich in culture and a pleasant climate, frequently Many more years passed, and the land was under German rule, at the course, but extremely hospitable. They may boast of their own icons, or service of Catholic Rome. But around the year 711, news spread of the those appropriated from others, so much so that even the Holy Inquisition death of El Cid and the loss of that early peninsular nation. came to its authority in the matter of traditions of dubious orthodoxy.

Pilgrims used many pilgrimage routes through to reach These villages are as rich as they are varied and distinct in innumerable Santiago (the Camino de Santiago). One was the coastal route, traveling everyday details. Only the traveler can distinguish between them. Cantabria from west to east, using the ancient road built by Agrippa. Another path went up the Ebro river, continuing through the Besaya Valley, from south to north.

The sea routes were heavily traveled, although there was always the threat of attack by Vikings or Normans, hence the “Four Villas” (Castro, Laredo, Santander, and San Vicente) were chartered ports which played an important role. Al Isidri used the maritime route in the 12th century. Eguilior Palace: “In the 11th and 12th centuries, the Vikings and Normans raided these coasts. For the port of San Emeterio, the danger ceased to come from the Joyful south, and began to arrive from the north, via the ocean. It is speculated Twilight Sorrows that its fortifications were probably ordered by Alfonso I, precautionary measures to protect them from the Moorish cavalry.” “For Santander, the green civilized land of Santander, if it has an excess of anything, it is Alfonso VIII granted Santander a charter in 1187; he ordered the possibilities.” reconstruction of the city walls and the abbey. After that it was a city of the Crown, whose residents were free citizens, not subject to the feudal Camilo José Cela lords’ power. he marines of the Brotherhood took part in the discovery of But it was the port which gave the city its importance, and where it T America, providing naval technicians as well as money. Among showed its power. A significant expansion in trade during the 13th century the rough seamen of Cantabria, Juan de la Cosa is recognized as lead to the strengthening of the Spanish navy in the next century. This is the greatest Spanish cartographer of the 15th century, and the most where the so-called “Four Villas” (Santander, San Vicente, Laredo, and knowledgeable sailor in . Christopher Columbus entrusted him with ) displayed their strength and power. navigating the first voyage of discovery aboard the Santa María.

Tough seafaring people, frequently whale hunters, they worked the sea In the end, it would be Felipe II who most benefited the city. It was the hard, and established important shipyards. These were times of fleeting king himself who erected the episcopal see of Santander. In 1785 the splendor. consulate was born, on the orders of Carlos III. From that time all regional trade began to expand. In Santander, the civil wars of the late Middle Ages divided families, The Peninsular War ruined these lands. But in the 19th century, creating violent confrontations. Enrique IV gave the city charter to the Cantabria was reborn with flourishing maritime trade. The port of second Marquis of Santillana in 1466, which provoked a serious outburst Santander was filled with ocean liners, and at the Magdalena Palace, of violence. the king and queen gave the city its most magnificent moments. In Cantabria everything begins and ends with the sea.

2 The villa of Limpias belongs to the eastern part of autonomous community of Cantabria. It was very important throughout the 15th century due to its location on the road to Burgos and its active port, famous for elver fishing.

There still remain signs of those splendors: large houses and palaces, and the important port known as Ribero in the 16th century. From here ships departed for England and Flanders laden with iron from Cantabrian The Legend: foundries and wood from its forests, and later, filled with Castilian wheat. The Weeping Christ Limpias commemorates this history today with a unique outdoor River Museum at the end of the riverwalk.. It is always open. he legend started when, around 1919, various people believed The Parador de Limpias is located in Eguilior Palace, on the El T they saw Christ weeping: “The Christ of Limpias is weeping,” “I Castañar Estate, a perfect spot for travelers seeking rest, relaxation and have seen Christ weeping.” And so began the pilgrimage in tranquility. The forested estate is an excellent example of the green search of a miracle. It is said that the faithful pilgrims began to arrive and Cantabrian landscape, and it just calls out to walkers. You do not need to that even today, after almost two centuries, they still come to pray and be an ecologist to learn how to distinguish between the native tree species: ask the famous Christ for help. hazelnuts, oaks and chestnuts together with reforested eucalyptus, accompanied by a wide variety of birds. Another key moment in local history was when Queen Isabel the Catholic and her daughter Juana passed through on their way to Laredo, Laredo and its magnificent beaches await swimming enthusiasts nearby, where Juana was to take ship for to be married. in the Bay of Biscay, so different from other bodies of water in color, temperature, and surf. The Bay of Biscay has been a luxury of kings, and The palace of the Counts of Limpias displays coats of arms, towers, it is still a luxury for present-day visitors. and balconies on its four floors. The House of the Picos is notable for its beauty. “In the rough terrain of Cantabria, the joy of summer, brief and unique in nature, is clothed in cheerful abandon which captivates and touches by The valley of the Asón River starts in , and the river ascends to cut across the Ruega Valley and Alisas Pass to reach the El Miera region. Once again the landscape is the protagonist. The rias of Limpias, Rada, and Argoña are like arms defending against the tide. They create enormously lush microclimates which benefit the colonies of many and varied species of vertebrates and birds.

Of the migrating birds, the spoonbills are the most admired. They arrive from Holland and make a stop here before continuing their long trip to Africa.

The diving marine ducks are entertaining, and normally seek shelter in the inlets. Locals tell visitors that with patience, they can easily recognize the eider duck, a bird with black, white, and green feathers and an elegant, elongated profile

A Short Walk its strangeness, in a country where souls, valleys, mountains and heavens alike wear a halo of sorrow, a dreamy twilight which seems infused with to tears and clouds by the angel of melancholy.” T he town is famous for its running of the bulls during the festival Concha Espina of its patron saint, which has become very popular. Many people come to the “Little San Fermines”. Limpias became famous and entered the history books during the Middle Ages because of its monastery. The solid stone building eventually The large vernacular houses are a highlight. The Espina Velasco palace later became part of the Velasco house. Juan de Velasco was the steward of tower is the most interesting, with an imposing façade and a four-story King Enrique III, who held him in high esteem. In appreciation of his tower. loyalty, he gave him the great gift of the Christ of Limpias. The sculpture shows the crucified Christ and dates from the 18th century. It is made Quite close to the villa is the Bien Aparecida shrine, containing an from polychromed wood and said to be of Andalusian origin. important 1734 altarpiece by Raimundo Vélez del Valle. The shrine attracts many visitors, and its virgin, the “Bien Aparecida” has become the patron saint of Cantabria. Gastronomy: More Than Just A Lot “In my ancestral home more sunny than others as without a roof the sun comes in at all hours.”

Francisco de Quevedo, of Santander ancestry

he significant support which the Cantabrians provided, sending T men and ships to Guadalquivir to battle side by side with Fernando III’s Castilians in 1248 in the reconquest of Seville created a firm bond which made Santander ever the port of Castile. They say that one of the consequences of this is that the Cantabrians speak the best Spanish of anyone in the coastal region.

In Cantabria the sea is generous, the fishing abundant, and the catch of excellent quality. The Archpriest of Hita himself mentioned the “red lobsters of Santander; the fresh or dried conger eel of Laredo and the salmon of Castro Urdiales”.

But what visitors praise the most are the Sardines: unforgettable. And Half a cup of white wine the Sea Bream, Tuna, and Hake, and, above all, the “Elvers”. It can Olive oil and wine vinegar be said without exaggeration that they are excellent, with a mysterious Parsley and salt touch of unique flavor. Carefully clean the sardines, removing the heads and bones. In a Cantabria is the second biggest fishing region of the peninsula, after saucepan, fry the garlic and add the sardines. Lightly fry over high heat, Galicia. On the other hand, Santander is also noted for its livestock: there moving the pan. Moisten with wine and a little vinegar. Sprinkle with are tens of thousands of families whose livelihood is raising cattle, and chopped parsley and leave to cook. many dairy farms. A good exhibition of this sector’s strength is the Fair. SOBAOS One dozen eggs Among the best-known specialties, freshly-caught fish is especially 750 grams sugar important all along the coast. Other favorites include Pollo Marinero 750 grams butter (Sailor’s Chicken) from Laredo; and from San Vicente de La Barquera, 750 grams flour Hake, Sea Bream, and Sorropotún, Fisherman’s Bonito Tuna small cup of rum and Potato Stew. And there are many more: Casseroles of Santoña, unforgettable Roasted Sardines, the Squid, Scorpionfish from Beat the softened butter until it forms a frothy cream. Add the sugar Castro Urdiales, Snapper and Snails from San Andrés. and continue beating as you add the eggs one by one. Add the cognac and when it is very frothy, sift the flour and fold it in with a spatula. Fill paper The confectionay in Cantabria is magnificent. Residents of Santander molds halfway and bake at 170C for 20 minutes.Laredo are justly proud of their sweets: Sobado Pasiego, a small sponge cake; Pantortilla Puff Pastry; Quesada Cheese Pastry; Rosquilla Laredo is one of the most noteworthy cities of Cantabria, and like most Doughnuts from ; Pejinas from San Vicente, made with puff pastry and a sweet pumpkin filling, and many more. Among the most commended by outsiders are the Leche Frita, Fried Custard Squares, and Arroz con Leche, Rice Pudding, both sublime.

And the Cheeses are magnificent. Experts say that Cantabria is one of the paradises for Spanish cheese. The reason for this is that there are a variety of climates and micro-climates, different types of livestock, and a landscape which creates many isolated pastures.

This leads to the great diversity of cheese production. Cheese with a Cantabrian denominación de origen is made with pasteurized milk from Friesian cows.

THE SECRET RECIPE

YOUNG SARDINE CASSEROLE Two dozen young sardines or anchovies Two cloves garlic Exceptional In the third year, in the third dream you returned, Excursions to the third feather pen, to the third shell of solitude, to the third tear.” Cantabrian cities, it has prehistoric origins. It was considered the main port of the mountains. But as the years passed, the port of Santander José Hierro became more important. Marshes: The marshes have been declared a national refuge for sea Laredo’s “Old Town” is a beautiful historic birds. They contain interesting quarter which is a delight to take a relaxed zooplankton with an enormous variety stroll through. The church of Nuestra of fish. Highlights include filtering Señora de la Asunción is the heart of shellfish: cockles, clams, baby Laredo, and a visit to its beautiful interior is clams...and among the vertebrates, recommended. It is a Gothic jewel with four mallard ducks and the common coot. naves, the result of a series of modifications throughout its history. The Santoña Estuary is immense, with an area of 3,500 hectares. Its The City Hall, built in 1562, has a most important function, as with most Renaissance appearance. It is a regionalist wetlands, is to serve as a necessary building, displaying the city’s coat of arms and stopping place for many sea birds. an 18th-century clock. It has three arches with balconies, and just opposite is the House of the Santander: Heart Of The Sea Mar family, proudly displaying an ashlar façade, with coat of arms and beautiful wrought- “Heart of the humbling Bay of iron balconies. Biscay, pools of blood form in you, Laredo offers the extensive fine-sand square of the course and of the rose, beaches of Salve and Regatón, without a sheet and pillow of the keel.” doubt, one of its top attractions. At approximately four kilometers, Salve Beach is the longest beach in Gerardo Diego Cantabria. If the traveler is not too pressed for time, you should not rule out a visit Castro Urdiales to Santander. This beautiful city rightfully boasts of its Sardinero beach, whose fine sand guarantees a pleasant swim. We recommend a stroll down Castro Urdiales came into existence during the upper Paleolithic, about the Paseo Pereda, the boundary between the city and the sea, and one of 12,000 years before Christ. Proof of this are the caves of Cuco, which the most beautiful and best-tended gardens of our coastal cities. Those became the Roman Flavióbriga many years later. who enjoy good food must visit the Puerto Chico. Choosing a fish in It has always been a favorite summer spot for residents. these parts is a real ritual, and always a celebration.

Santoña: Berría beach and the marshes At Magdalena Palace, Verano University is always operating. It was the gift given by the residents of Santander to the king and queen for “This beach that you see, eyes, the great their summer stays in the city. mother of sand, the solitary ember, pale and silent... The Cathedral, erected between the 13th and 14th centuries, has

5 two superimposed structures in a Gothic style. Our attention is drawn to the Romanesque Crypt of Christ, where the relics of Saint Emeterio For those Parador guests who have time to continue enjoying Cantabria, and Saint Celedonio are venerated. please remember that there are two other Paradors in the autonomous community: and Fuente Dé, in the mountains. If your are curious about the historic quarter of the city, remember that Santander suffered an enormous fire in 1941, leaving no trace of the old Parador de Santillana del Mar city. A visit to the Parador de Gil Blás in Santillana del Mar is interesting in Porticada Square betrays the noticeable influence of Herrera. For itself, but there are also a number of other tourist destinations nearby. There many years it was the site of the city’s Music and Dance Festivals. are beach towns such as and Cóbreces; universities and Gaudi “Caprices” in ; nearby artistic destinations such as Quevedo, The Santander Casino is delightful, relaxed, and filled with Sigüenza, Viveda, and Novales; and natural destinations such as character. This magnificent balcony overlooking the sea is an excellent Oyambre Nature Reserve. option, and has a comfortable restaurant. Parador de Fuente Dé

The avant-garde Santander Festival Building overlooks the bay. It History has passed through the weather-beaten laborer, civilization hosts many events: opera, theater, conventions, and more. slips over the mountain shepherd shrouded in fog.

For the most inquisitive, and museum lovers, we recommend the highly Unamuno original Maritime Museum of Cantabria. It is modern in both construction and content, with collections dedicated to the sea since the A Parador with magnificent views, near the Picos of Europe 18th century. Important institutions, such as the Nautical School of Mountains. The Parador de Fuente Dé is a perfect base for active the City, the Free Institute for Teaching, and the Spanish tourism, adventure and excitement, or for peaceful, contemplative walks. Institute of Oceanography made contributions. The Parador’s professionals can provide you with information about a The Regional Museum of Prehistory and Archeology has one of wide selection of activities to please any guest: mountain biking, abseiling, the most valuable Paleolithic collections in Europe. horseback riding, spelunking, and more. Cantabria From Parador To Parador

Text: Juan G. D´Atri and Miguel García Sánchez Design: Fernando Aznar

Parador de Limpias Fuente del Amor,s/n. 39820 Limpias (Cantabria) Tel.: 942 62 89 00 - Fax: 942 63 43 33 e-mail: [email protected] Reservation Center Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid (España) Tel.: 902 54 79 79 - Fax: 902 52 54 32 www.parador.es / e-mail: [email protected] 6