The Journal of the New Zealand Antarctic Society Vol 15. No. 3, 1997

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AUSTRALIA'S BIG SEASON JCE CHRISTCHURCH GATEWAY TO ANTARCTICA

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Contents

^^^' ' x ■ ifci—K-. Forthcoming Events B ^ _ > A . ■ V 1 Policy f*j 1^ L1 Looking into the Ice's 21 st Century s ^Jj News National Programmes B» New Zealand "'"wH Australia ■ o^. Malaysia South Korea Cooer: Thunderbird, a North American Indian god of storms, sits atop the totem pole at USA Christchurch Airport honouring US airmen who Russia made a supply drop to the South Pole in 1956. Cover Story Volume 1 5, No. 3, 1997, Gateway City Blazes a Trail Issue No. 162 Tourism ANTARCTIC is published quarterly by the New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., ISSN 0003-5327. General Editor: Shelley Grell Please address all editorial inquiries and contributions to Antarctic Bulletin, Report P O Box 404, Christchurch or telephone 03 365 0344, facsimile 03 365 4255, Iceberg Devastation Creates New Life, by DrUoydPeck e-mail [email protected]. Education

»>ii^""** Book Reviews \ ANTARCTICA The Silence Calling \ • ~^\/ "Lonely Planet Antarctica" ■'' '" mSBB Feature Exploring the Unknown / O r » M M ' ..... \imm tgh-ajar" ' \ S—f ?'■*[BSS nmx- V •-■ \.-'U A \_//_....1 r \^r . ' _ A- FORTHCOMING EVENTS V % J i 28-30 April, 1998 — Antarctic Futures Workshop, St Andrews College, ■■ t^feiSuHR Christchurch NZ. The workshop aims to examine the trends likely to shape Antarctic activities over the next few decades and the opportunities -1 ' 6 (UBlMH**1 ssr p these may provide for New Zealand. Organisers: Antarctica New 7^ Zealand. 5 14-16 May 1998 — Belgica Centennial Symposium, Brussels, Belgium. / E M * * ? \ ■ I > A. The Belgica Centennial Symposium will be held in Brussels (14-16 May ANTARCTIC 1998) under the High Patronage of His Majesty the King Albert II, to \ f f w . - i « ) * / PENINSULA \ 1 commemorate the 100th anniversary of Gerlache's 1897-1899 Belgica expedition. \ / ■ ^_ M M \ 25 May — 5 June, 1998 — XXII ATCM, Tromso, Norway

8-11 June, 1998 — The 9th Global Warming International Conference and rrX — KING GEORGE Expo will be held in Hong Kong. ^j ISLAND 20-31 July, 1998 — SCAR/COMNAP Meetings, Concepcion, Chile

rtbWM S- 31 August — 4 September, 1998 — SCAR Biology Symposium, BCMJ Christchurch, NZ. E--3SL..,, July 1999 — SCAR Earth Science Symposium, Wellington, NZ. Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic Looking into the Ice's 21st Century By Warren Head Scenarios that will shape Antarctica into the 21st Century will be debated during a major workshop being hosted by Antarctica New Zealand in Christchurch in 1998. Antarctica New Zealand is a new Crown agency with the mission to provide leadership in developing, promoting and realising opportunities for New Zealand from international involvement in Antarctica and the Southern Ocean. Its goals span science and related strategy, environmental stewardship, education, logistical services and non Antarctic New /.calami workshop to debate policies for sites such as Scott Base on the southern continent. government activities. These include Zealand figures from the science, benefit from opportunities emerging the framework for appropriate education, policy, business, tourism, in Antarctica and the Southern Ocean. commercial and tourist opportunities and environmental sectors. There will be identification of the consistent with New Zealand's values The outcomes are expected to values that New Zealand places on in the Antarctic. include a better understanding of the the Antarctic and the standards it The current view is that New frameworks guiding commercial would consider appropriate for envi Zealand's founding involvement in activity in Antarctica and identifica ronmental performance and opera the Antarctic Treaty system helped to tion of where New Zealand can tional safety. let peace and science prevail on the continent through a time of Cold War geopolitics and beyond. Curtain falls on US Navy Antarctica New Zealand says a radically different world is emerging. Antarctic operations The value of science in Antarctica is increasingly recognised and there are The 42nd and final operating season organisms: Antarctic dry valley lakes; new high standards set by global of the US Navy's Operation Deep marine ecosystems. The search agreement which reflect international Freeze is now mid-way. continues for meteorites. environmental awareness. It began on 30 September with the Hydrothermal vents are being At the Antarctic Treaty's first US Air Force flight of the 1997-98 surveyed. Other work involves Consultative Meeting in 1997 at summer to Antarctica, carrying cargo auroral imaging; seismography; Christchurch, the New Zealand and passengers. gamma-ray astronomy; meteorology, government conveyed its vision of In March 1998 the US Navy will biological adaptations of marine conservation of the intrinsic values of disestablish Naval Support Force organisms and a social study of the the Ross Dependency and the Antarctica in California and US effects of wintering-over on Antarctic Southern Ocean through active and Naval Antarctic Support Unit in personnel. responsible stewardship. Christchurch and hand over its func US Navy, US Air Force and the US The background to the forum in tion in the US Antarctic Programme Coast Guard are continuing to 1998 includes exponential growth in to the New York State Air National support the American scientific tourism activity pushed along by Guard's 109th Mobility Air Wing and programme this summer in a variety access to ice-strengthened vessels and civilian contractors. of ways; most visibly by the seven growing Western affluence. Aiiiinks While the US Navy is withdrawing LC-130 aircraft of Navy Antarctic to the Ice are no longer the exclusive after 42 years of service (and sacrifice: Developmental Squadron Six (VXE- domain of military-supported 50 Americans have died on the Ice 6); and the four LC-130S of the Air national programmes. Declining since 1955), the US presence in Guard and Air Force. Northern Hemisphere fish stocks and Antarctica and Christchurch will One of the biggest changes this lucrative Asian markets are pushing continue. year is the presence of the Air Guard, fishing fleets southwards. The US Antarctic Programme has a as they take over the LC-130 flight New technologies in scientific full schedule of events supporting missions from the Navy. research, mapping and telecommuni more than 120 science projects The formal dis-establishment cere cations and Antarctica's recent role as involving more than 600 people this mony is on February 20,1998. The US a barometer for global climate change summer. Of these, some 70% will Navy plans to unveil a memorial have popularised the continent. transit to the Ice through New plaque honouring the 50 Americans The "Antarctic Futures" workshop, Zealand. — civilian scientists and military 28-30 April 1998, aims to involve Projects include continuing study personnel — who have died in leading international and New of ozone layer depletion; fossil micro Antarctica. Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic

Mars link in

robot research Antarctic New Zealand's chief executive Gillian Wratt has been appointed chair of the Council of Managers of National Antarctic Programmes, the first NASA scientists are testing 'tele woman to be appointed to the post. r presence technology' in Antarctic In a three year term she will work which may be used to explore Mars. on development of collaborative Both areas are remote with hostile efforts among Antarctic Treaty environments that are difficult for nations. Another New Zealander, humans to explore but can be Julian Tangaere, will also be involved. reached by sophisticated robots. Wratt says the position will "We will be able to catalogue a strengthen New Zealand's leadership previously unexplored ecology at a role in the Antarctic as treaty nations depth nobody has seen before," said exchanged ideas. Being the first Dr Carol Stoker, a scientist at woman to hold the position was of NASA's Ames Research Centre in "little consequence," she said. California. Ms Wratt spent her first summer on Scientists will use a modified the Ice in 1985-86 working as a field . submarine called a telepresence assistant. She has previously been MM remotely operated vehicle (TROV) director of the New Zealand Antarctic ||||j|| to explore 800ft below the surface of programme and is currently chief McMurdo Sound near Ross Island. executive of Antarctica New Zealand. Telepresence technology allows scientists on land to use head move Right: Gillian Wratt... first woman appointed. ments to point cameras on the underwater vehicle and steer by remote control. More nations sign Antarctic Protocol This year's expedition will see scientists steering the vehicle not The US and Russia have signed the Shortly after the US signing both from adjacent land in Antarctica but Antarctic Environmental Protocol. houses of Russia's parliament also from California. The Protocol is an agreement ratified the protocol. They will steer the TROV by designed to provide comprehensive For the Protocol to enter into force computer, both directly and by protection of the world's last great internationally all 26 Antarctic linking it to a "virtual reality" wilderness. Treaty Consultative Parties must underwater terrain model of The US ratified it on April 17, six ratify it. Antarctica, thus ensuring that useful months after President Clinton signed When this happens a Committee scientific samples are being the Antarctic Science, Tourism, and on Environmental Protection (CEP) retrieved. Conservation Act of 1996. The delay will be established and the process The TROV is attached to a 1000ft in the US ratification was due to a and procedures for reviewing envi tether consisting of integrated and new State Department requirement ronmental impact assessments of all fibre optic cables which sends digital that ratification could not occur until Antarctic activities will be put in data and video signals to the all required regulations were in place. place. surface. The signals are combined into Spent weather balloons endanger whales stereo imagery that scientists can view using special 'stereo glasses.' Spent weather balloons could have a the ocean and that whales swim A researcher at Monterey Bay serious impact on endangered randomly, feeding near the surface. Aquarium Research Institute, James species of white whales. They then added into their calcula Barry, will use the TROV to plot About 10,000 balloons are launched tions reasonable numbers for the size how dominant bottom-dwelling life- each year from Antarctic bases and of a whale's gape and its swimming forms change from shallow to deep most b«rst and fall to land or ocean speed. water in McMurdo Sound. within hours. The result was that whales had The TROV also has a manipulator A study conducted at the Oak Ridge about a 7% chance of encountering a arm to collect biological samples, National Laboratory in Tennessee to balloon in the course of a year. For a including bottom-dwellers such as see if the balloons posed any threat to population of several thousand whales bryozoans (small colonial animals) whales has concluded that the chances (which is about the population of and deepwater sponges which will are reasonably high. species such as the humpback and be used in studies to ascertain how Ecologist Gerald Eddlemon and his blue whales) this translates into a few these organisms use chemical colleagues assumed that spent hundred encounters each year. defences. balloons are scattered randomly across Eddlemon says this was likely to be Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic NEWS an underestimate, particularly because many of the balloons are made of poly thene which could last decades in TVNZ's "60 Minutes" Films on Ice Antarctic waters. Currents were also likely to sweep the balloons and whales' planktonic food into the same areas of the ocean. Little is known about the actual effect if whales swallowed a balloon although there have been reports of dead whales with plastic balloons in their stomachs. Southern fried exposure Two recent studies which show that penguins have been exposed to poultry diseases are raising concerns about the role of humans in spreading diseases to and within Antarctica. In one study, Australian Pauline Donaldson (LEARNT.), Cameron Bennett and Ken Dormon ("60 Minutes"), Pete Sommerville researchers found antibodies for (LEARNT.) and David Lomas ("60 Minutes") prepare for an Antarctic interview. infectious bursal disease virus Television New Zealand's team from the weekly programme "60 Minutes" (IBVD) in Emperor chicks and adult visited the Ice in October to film for the LEARNZ programme — an innova Adelie penguins. The virus may tive education programme for schoolchildren around New Zealand. retard penguin chicks' growth, Correspondent Cameron Bennett interviewed Kiwi school teacher, Pauline predisposes them to infections, is Donaldson and LEARNZ coordinator, Pete Sommerville. From Scott Base by highly contagious and can cause phone and Internet, Pauline and Pete were able to bring the Antarctic experi high death rates. ence to hundreds of New Zealand school children. The "60 Minutes" In a separate study Swedish scien programme was broadcast on New Zealand television on Sunday 23 tists discovered a small outbreak of November. salmonella in subantarctic penguins on Bird Island. The scientists surmise Despite the publicity and accolades the LEARNZ initiative is still seeking funding to continue in 1998. Plans are to focus on the Southern Ocean, with that the bacteria was introduced the LEARNZ teacher on board a NIWA research vessel, including interna either by ships dumping sewerage at tional linkages through the 'Year of the Ocean'. (For further details of sea or by albatrosses foraging for LEARNZ see page 67). waste-contaminated squid near South America. The Antarctic Protocol will regu Frenchman succeeds in sailing around late the handling of poultry and disposal of waste within the treaty Antarctica

A French adventurer has circumnavigated Antarctica, joining a handful of intrepid sailors who have completed the voyage through some of the world's Cape Evans permits stormiest seas. Bernard Espinet, 43, sailed into Wellington on 18 August, some 15 months after Antarctica New Zealand is now he set sail on 28 April 1996. issuing permits to cover visits to The 18,400-mile voyage was "gruelling," said Espinet, who left France 15 Scott's Hut and its surrounds at Cape years ago for life at sea. Evans and to reinforce the code of conduct developed to protect the Poets and artist to Scott Base values of the site. This season 10 New Zealand Poets Bill Manhire and Chris Orsman, Tim Higham, ANZ's communica permits have been issued to cover the and painter Nigel Brown, will be the tions manager, said: "Antarctica has visits of about 80 people involved in first artists to participate in a scheme traditionally been the domain of adven restoration and conservation work, as initiated recently by Antarctica New turers and scientists, but it is also a well as education and recreation Zealand (ANZ). place of fascination, importance and activities in accordance with the The aim is to raise awareness of the mystique for many people. It looms management plan. More than 600 scientific and other values of Antarctica large in the national consciousness." tourists will also visit the protected with a new audience and a fresh The three men will spend two weeks area in January and February 1998. perspective. on the ice in January.

Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic NEWS New Acting Head of Polar National data Programmes at NSF centre closer

In September 1997 the National responsible for fundamental research The first steps in establishing a Science Foundation appointed John B. in all fields of science and engi National Antarctic Data Centre Hunt as the new acting director of the neering, with an annual budget of (NADC) for New Zealand are being Office of polar programmes. about $3 billion. NSF funds reach all put in place. Hunt was formerly the assistant 50 US states through grants to more Scientists will be encouraged to director of mathematical and physical than 2000 universities and institutions complete data descriptions while at sciences and has considerable experi nationwide. Scott Base and with end-of-season ence in managing large, complex The foundation receives more than science reports. programmes. 50,000 requests for funding annually, Descriptions of data collected The National Science Foundation is including at least 30,000 new through government-funded an independent federal agency proposals. Antarctic research are not being systematically made or kept and, as a Replacement of US South Pole Station result, valuable information is being lost or is not accessible. It will take eight years to replace the tors in order to achieve some savings. The NADCs, being established by sinking US South Pole station which Scientists will also be required to stay all treaty nations, will form an is more than 20 years old. in Antarctica only long enough to Antarctic Master Directory (AMD) — Pollution, waste disposal, safety make observations and gather data, an initiative of SCAR and managed considerations and fuel storage need and then return home to analyse the by the International Centre for to be addressed, but are hampered by information and prepare reports. Antarctic Information and Research decreasing funds as a result of The NSF dome, which provides (ICAIR). changing scientific priorities. cover for the station, will be returned ICAIR, with seed funding from the The National Science Foundation is to the US and replaced with two Ministry of Foreign Affairs and seeking ways to achieve the improve horseshoe-shaped buildings on stilts Trade, is also designing an interface ments required for safety and envi which will resist settling in the snow that will enable data descriptions to ronmental preservation without sacri and ice. The US also hopes to refur be retrieved from the NADC and ficing the programmes on global bish McMurdo Station on Ross Island AMD databases via the web. A web warming, ice sheet melting, ozone and Palmer Station on the peninsula. interface to allow entry of data depletion and the study of galaxies. The US will also ask Britain, New descriptions is also planned. Funds will be shifted from the Zealand and South Africa to help Navy to independent civilian contrac with logistics and costs. Courtesy of "Ice Cap News" Australia Considers Leasing Bases A recent report recommends that Australia lease two of its three bases to other nations and create a permanent air link and summer tourism in Antarctica. Compiled by Australia's Antarctic Science Committee the report (Australia's Antarctic Programme Beyond 2000) also recommends changes to Australia's entire Antarctic programme with more emphasis on practical research with economic and national significance. "Australia must retain a permanent presence in Antarctica and retain at least one all-year opera tional station on continental Antarctica," the report said. "But with the expected increasing automation of data gathering the requirement for three year- round stations may diminish." The report suggests Australia retain Davis base for its central and convenient location and consider sharing or leasing Mawson and Casey bases to other nations. Building a permanent air strip on the conti nent to improve Australia's links with its Antarctic

bases was also recommended. Davis Station, Anlarctiea. By D. Watts

Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic NATIONAL PROGRAMMES New Zealand 1997-8 Season Under Way

The first passenger flight of the supported this season, the largest of environmental conditions, the influ summer Antarctic season left which is the six-nation Cape Roberts ence of sea ice on Southern Christchurch for McMurdo Sound project which had to be postponed Hemisphere climate and the geolog on 1 October. early this season due to unstable ice ical history of a part of Antarctica On board were 19 New conditions. (See story and once linked with New Zealand. Zealanders supporting science from photographs on page 64) About 350 people will be catered for Scott Base and other camps. Thirty Other projects will examine the at Scott Base, making it one of the New Zealand projects are being way life-forms cope with extreme busiest seasons. Third quarter phenomena Antarctic study continues albedo A team from Lincoln University led Scientists from Victoria University questions about the temporal have recently returned from a three by Dr Gary Steel visited the Ice twice processes of emotions and motiva week study on the Ice measuring the again this season to continue a behav tion. It will also aid station managers ioural study experienced within and staff in planning for the chal amount of ultra violet light reflected isolated groups over the course of an lenges of long-term stays on the ice. by snow. Antarctic year. Results so far seem to show that Reflection of sky light by snow The study is investigating the rela Bechtel's third quarter theory (drop determines the Antarctic albedo and it is understood that transmission tionship between personality vari in mood) is unlikely to be supported ables and fluctuations in mood, through snow can affect the amount by the data collected, possibly of UV reaching algae on the sea-ice morale and group cohesiveness. because the people he studied "are bottom. Dr Steel hopes results of the study remarkably resourceful and open to Scientists checked and compared will help to address fundamental experience". properties of the Antarctic skies at Scott Base and near the sea-ice edge with the expectation that the nature Transantarctic mountains of the skylight — polarisation and evolution intensity distribution — would change near the sea-ice edge. Dr Ian Turnbull from the Institute and climate changes during this of Geological and Nuclear period. Flu pandemics Sciences visited the Ice in The work will also contribute December to investigate the struc to the understanding of crustal under study ture of the lithosphere of the isostatic response to deglacia- Influenza pandemics occur when a Transantarctic Mountains and tion, the evolution of the rocks new flu virus spreads rapidly and Victoria Land Basin. forming the Transantarctic causes illness in a high proportion The project aims to improve Mountains, and the seismicity of the global population. The last one was 26 years ago and knowledge of the processes and geomagnetism that link involved in the structural devel plans are being made to deal with present day Antarctica to the next one. One of the recom opment and evolution of this contemporary global geophys mended actions is to look for poten ical processes. major rift mountain chain, which tial pandemic flu viruses in animals is one of the largest ranges on Geological field investigations and birds. Earth. of the rocks adjacent to the Dr Frank Austin of Dunedin The Transantarctic Mountains Wilson Piedmont Glacier, spent a month visiting Cape Bird, have had a profound influence on between Granite Harbour and Cape Crozier, Cape Royds and Cape the geological and glaciological New Harbour in Southern Evans looking for potential development of the Antarctic Victoria Land, are focussed on pandemic influenza viruses in region during the Cenozoic age identifying major fault systems Antarctic skuas and penguins. and, as a result, have had a signif associated with uplift of the Samples from penguins and skuas icant influence on global sea-level Transantarctic Mountains. were collected to compare virus isolates with human strains. Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic NATIONAL PROGRAMMES

Australia Wide Range of Research Programmes Under Way

During the 1997-98 season, the Australian Antarctic Division, through ANARE (the Australian National Antarctic Research Expeditions), will support 135 scien tific research programmes in the atmospheric, biological, human impacts, oceanographic and medical disciplines, to be conducted in the Antarctic and subantarctic regions. Subantarctic Macquarie Island will be the focus for new and continuing studies, including investigations into the factors controlling the population status and food consumption of Aurora Austr.ilis at anchor near subantarctic Heard Island. elephant seals, in an attempt to Photo by Rick Burbury, courtesy of the Australian Antarctic Division understand why seal numbers have been declining since the 1950s. and energy transfer mechanisms at a site near Australia's Davis A track survey of the island this operating in the high latitude upper Station, which has potential for util season will document the flora and atmosphere. ising tidal power. fauna, heritage, aesthetic and wilder Research programmes at Casey Human responses to the Antarctic ness qualities, and will form the basis Station this coming summer will form part of medical research to be of a wilderness inventory for a include a continuing study of petrels carried out at all ANARE stations this Macquarie Island Geographic on Ardery Island as part of a major year aimed at understanding the Information System. international study of seabirds as an effects of the Antarctic environment At Australia's Mawson Station, indicator of climate change, and an on expeditioners, providing research programmes will include investigation of the coastal marine researchers and operators with a investigations to obtain basic infor communities to monitor the health of more detailed knowledge of the prob mation on the microbial, viral and the Antarctic environment in the lems of adapting to life in Antarctica. parasitic flora of Adelie and emperor Casey area. The Australian Antarctic Research penguins in Antarctica, and espe An Australian-French cooperative and Supply Vessel (RSV) Aurora cially to identify pathogens and exotic study on the use of alternative energy Australis will support a number of agents that may pose a threat in the systems has the longer term objec marine science projects this season in future. tives of making Antarctic stations the Southern Ocean and the waters Physicists at Mawson this season independent, or near independent, of adjacent to the Antarctic continent. In will look high above the Antarctic fossil fuels and consequently October Aurora, on its first Antarctic continent in a number of related minimising their impact on the envi voyage of the season to resupply studies that will provide further ronment. As well as the collection of Davis Station, will be the platform for insight into the structure, variability meteorological data in support of the a number of marine research projects. —I project, work this year will The programme will include include the collection and studies of pack-ice seals, notably analysis of hydrological data the elusive crabeater seal, which | lives exclusively in the Antarctic pack-ice zone. The long-term study is part of an international research programme that will culminate in a multi-nation circumpolar survey of pack-ice seals in 1998-99 aimed at improving understanding of the behaviour, distribu Crabeater seals. tion and abundance of Above photo by D Cheeseman, courtesy of the Australian these significant marine Antarctic Division -i mammals. Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic NATIONAL PROGRAMMES

In February 1998 the marine science focus will turn to the Malaysia subantarctic, where a month long Southern Ocean voyage will concen trate on a variety of research projects Malaysia's first official including an investigation into the role of the subantarctic zone in visit to Antarctica Southern Ocean heat and water trans Malaysian and New Zealand cabinet ministers visited Scott Base on 13 November port, air-sea gas exchange, primary to show the Malaysian delegation the international nature of Antarctic activities productivity, ecosystem structure, and carbon export to the deep sea. and to encourage science collaboration between the two countries. For further information on the Dato' Seri Dr Ling Liong Sik, the Malaysian Minister of Transport, led the first Australian Antarctic Programme official Malaysian visit to Antarctica, hosted by Simon Upton, New Zealand's Associate Minister of Foreign Affairs and Trade. Dato' Dr Salleh Mohd Noor, a contact the Australian Antarctic Division on telephone +61 3 6232 3209 fellow of the Malaysian Academy of Sciences, and a foreign affairs official, Mr Hussein Haniff, were also part of the Ice visit. or access the Australian Antarctic Division's World Wide Web Home Page at: http://www.antdiv.gov.au South Korea New South Korean base in Antarctica

The South Korean news agency, Protocol establishes a 50 year morato Yonhap, reported that the South rium on oil and mineral exploitation. Korean government has budgeted When asked to comment on this US$92m for a new Antarctic base. The report, Ambassador Yoon-Kyung Oh, completion of the base is expected in head of the Korean delegation to 2002. ATCM XXI, issued a "non-paper" Yi Chung-hwan, marine policy which stated that the report was an bureau chief of South Korea's "utter misrepresentation". Maritime Affairs and Fisheries The Korean Government is a firm Ministry, stated that studies at the supporter of the cause of Antarctic new base will include "explorations environmental protection and will of mineral resources and offshore oil continue to carry out its scientific (and) studies on marine resources" to activities in the Antarctic in strict contribute to "the securing of territo compliance with the Protocol and rial rights for mining blocks of under Annexes. The Ambassador promised to pursue this matter and take correc Adelie Penguins. Photo by D Cheeseman, courtesy of ground resources." This is in spite of the Australian Antarctic Division the fact that the Environmental tive measures, if necessary.

United States

A new research season is under way in Antarctica, encompassing 185 research projects supported by the National Science Foundation (NSF). The number of projects is significantly higher than recent summer seasons because of the addition of a major oceanography programme. Research covers earth sciences, glaciology, biology, medicine, oceanography, meteorology, aeronomy and astrophysics. Highlights of the current season include:

the last ice age, pointing to rapid ICE DRILLING AT SlPLE DOME ice, in the first such direct measure melting, or they may be merely local ments of vertical velocity at a deep ice- Drillers will extract a 1000-metre core effects. core site. from West Antarctica's Siple Dome, a West Antarctica's ice, resting on mound of ice between two fast- ocean crust in a basin below sea level, Astronomy by balloon flowing ice streams. The ultimate goal may be most vulnerable to melting is to study the annual layers of ice to and raising global sea level. Antarctica's summer weather improve predictions of climate Siple Dome will also be drilled to provides a stable ride for instruments change. understand dynamics of ice flow hung beneath a balloon, which floats The rivers of ice drain the West there, which is mainly in the vertical around Antarctica at a steady height Antarctic ice sheet and are critical to its direction. Scientists will drop instru above most of the atmosphere, stability. Current changes in the ice ments into water-filled holes to providing a cheaper way to get scien sheet could be responses to the end of measure vertical deformation of the tific experiments into space. Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic NATIONAL PROGRAMMES

This year, a spectrometer will sail Ronne Ice Shelf, focusing on how the for 10 days around the continent, water emerging from beneath the shelf tracking gamma rays emitted by Shrinkage mixes with other water masses. neutron stars, black holes, the centre of the galaxy, and other features. The growth and shrinkage of the sea ice around Antarctica may be the "Icebreaker" to herald greatest seasonal event on Earth. new South Pole station Joint Venture to drill Scientists aboard the Nathaniel B. at Vostok NSF will formally break ground (or Palmer, NSF's icebreaking research ice) this month to begin constructing In a joint U.S.-Russian-French ship, will compare ice and snow on the a new station at the South Pole. surface with how they appear in satel venture, scientists will complete lite images. During the first phase of construc drilling the world's deepest ice core tion, a new garage and shop, fuel this season at Russia's Vostok Station. Actual measurements of ice on the surface help to validate computer storage system, and power plant will be built. This season the site will Drilling last stopped in February, models of climate by making simula 1997 at a depth of 3523 metres. be prepared and a new arch to house tions of sea ice more accurate. Covering more than 400,000 years the garage and shop will be erected. of snowfall, this core spans four Turbulent Mixing: New Atmospheric Research glacial interglacial cycles, furnishing Very cold, saline water, formed in the Observatory will be dedicated in an archive of information on past depths of the southernmost Weddell January at the South Pole, replacing climate history. The drillers will Sea, feeds dense "bottom water" that the overcrowded and ageing Clean plumb about 175 more metres of ice, spreads throughout the world's Air Facility. stopping 50 metres above Lake ocean. The ARO will offer twice the Vostok so as not to contaminate the U.S. scientists on a British Antarctic space of its predecessor for research huge lake sealed beneath the ice Survey research vessel will study the on climate, ozone, ultraviolet light, sheet. open water at the face of the Filchner- and other atmospheric studies.

Ultraviolet Revelations Tracking neutrinos and the Big Bang When more than half of Antarctica's from the South Pole stratospheric ozone disappears each The Antarctic Muon and Neutrino the earth, and stream into spring, the sun's ultraviolet-B radia Detector Array (AMANDA) is an AMANDA'S detectors. Scientists will tion can penetrate to the Earth's unusual form of telescope has been augment the current array this season surface and into the sea. buried in the ice cap at the South Pole by adding three new detector strings Scientists will study how UV-B to look downward into the earth for to the 14 already in place. affects the embryos and larvae of the telltale traces of neutrinos. New at South Pole this season will three key invertebrates living in be Viper, a two-metre diameter tele shallow waters off the U.S. Palmer Leading the nascent field of neutrino astronomy, AMANDA scope designed to look at radiation Station near the Antarctic Peninsula. studies the ghostly subatomic parti left over from the 'Big Bang'. It will cles emitted from such sources in operate on a smaller scale than previ space as supernovae remnants, ously from the Pole (initially with an pulsars, neutron stars, or active angular scale of one-half degree at a galactic nuclei. The neutrinos pass six millimetre wavelength; in the through the North Pole, on through future on a finer scale). Russia

Molodehzhnaya Station Will Close to Cut Costs

Palmer Station . .. ultraviolet study. In an effort to economise Russia plans to close the Molodehzhnaya Station in Eastern Antarctica within two to three years. Another project at Palmer will Other stations are also feeling the pinch. The Progress station 800 miles away study the photochemistry of seawater will become Russia's main base on the continent. The Bellingshausen station will surrounding cells in organisms be left with a minimum work force and crew from Mirny Station, which has an bombarded by increased UV-B. Such observatory, will be halved. And the Vostok Station, near the Pole of chemistry can influence damage to Inacessibility, will be maintained as an international research base. the cell surface. Still other work will In Soviet times, Russia had as many as seven Antarctic stations. But financial quantify how UV light affects problems since the 1991 Soviet collapse have made continuing on that scale plankton, the base of the ocean food impossible. (Ice Cap Nezus) Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic COVER STORY Gateway City Blazes a Trail By Warren Head The value of Antarctic scientific and commercial activity has been conserv atively estimated as being worth $50m annually in economic benefit to the city of Christchurch in New Zealand. High-profile events during 1997 have created a higher awareness of the city's historic association with "the Ice", including celebrations marking the 40th anniversary of New Zealand's Scott Base. An associated event was the 14 May 1997 opening by Christchurch Mayor Vicki Buck of the "Antarctic Heritage Trail", which marks eight individual sites within the precincts The International Antarctic Centre, at Orchard Road near Christchurch Airport. of the central city, its port town Council's economic promotion programmes as the final supply base Lyttelton and Christchurch agency the Canterbury Development for New Zealand's Scott Base, the International Airport. Corporation and the Canterbury USA's McMurdo and South Pole This trail ties in numerous locations Employers' Chamber of Commerce Stations and Italy's Terra Nova base. of interest to the city's growing will collaborate to explore a range of The nearby port of Lyttelton is the number of international visitors at a initiatives related to the great white departure point for Antarctic supply time when the Antarctic experience continent. and research vessels from numerous may be emerging as a significant A clearer understanding of the nations and for tourism cruise business driver. overall economic benefit of being the vessels. The New Zealand Tourism Board's Antarctic gateway city for New Canterbury Museum on Rolleston International Visitor Survey shows Zealand is expected to emerge. Avenue is the home to some of the that in 1995-96 602,000 visitors For almost a century, Christchurch, most important Antarctic relics in the included Christchurch among their has been the stepping-off point by air world. It was here that Dr Edward calls, spending $388m in the city. On and sea for numerous Antarctic activ Wilson, of Robert Falcon Scott's a multiplier of 2.4 times this suggests ities. National Antarctica Expedition, an annual economic impact of $932m Today the city is regarded as one of worked on the beginning of one of the in the city from tourism, says the the major gateways south to the conti most outstanding international collec executive director of Canterbury nent, servicing the New Zealand, tions on exploration. Tourism Jeanette Elliott. United States and Italian national Centre-piece today in the epic Sir The NZTB International Visitor Robertson Stewart Hall of Antarctic Surveys also indicate that 54% of visi Discovery is the snocat "Abel" of the tors include museums and art Trans-Antarctic Expedition led by galleries among their leading prefer Britain's Sir Vivian Fuchs and the ences for attractions. Ferguson tractor driven by New This finding gains credibility from Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary to the the performance of the innovative South Pole on the 1957-58 expedition. C a n t e r b u r y M u s e u m w h i c h , It was from Lyttelton that the ships according to spokesperson Sarah of Robert Falcon Scott's National Aston, attracted 462,000 visitors in Antarctica Expedition, Discovery, 1996. "The majority of these visitors Morning and Terra Nova, sailed would have visited our famous between 1901 and 1904. Returning to Antarctic Hall, which features the Lyttelton in 1910, Scott sailed on his only collection of its type anywhere in ill-fated second expedition. the world." The statue of Scott, unveiled in Alerted by these trends, and the 1917, in Worcester Boulevard is one of high profile resulting from the estab the best known landmarks on the lishment of the new government Heritage Trail. organisation Antarctica New Sculpted by Kathleen Scott, the Zealand, Christchurch city is focusing explorer's widow, it is a magnificent resources behind the Antarctic. monument to the deaths of Scott and Early in 1998 local agencies and his men Wilson, Evans, Oates and organisations such as Antarctica New The totem pole celebrating Bowers, in an unsuccessful attempt to Zealand, the Christchurch City Operation Deep Freeze. return from the South Pole.

60 Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic LEAD STORY

Prior to the 1901 expedition, Scott stayed with the Rhodes family at Te Koraha, now part of Rangi Ruru Girls' School in Hewitt Road, Merivale. The famous explorer also stayed at the home of Sir Joseph Kinsey on Clifton Hill and, like Shackleton and Wilson, he was also a guest of the Bowen family at 'Middleton' (now Middleton Grange School). Ernest Shackleton's 1907-1909 expedition also sailed from Lyttelton, where Quail Island was used as a quarantine station for the party's animals. Shackleton's ship Nimrod carried the party south including three men who, travelling overland, The Canterbury Museum features the world-renowned Antarctic Hall. would be the first to reach the South Magnetic Pole. Lyttelton Harbour and No 3 wharf were the last points of departure for many of the British expeditions at the turn of the century. The port town was at the centre of international interest and at the departure of the Nimrod on New Year's Day 1908 a crowd of 50,000 gathered on the wharves to farewell Shackleton's expedition. During the 1960s, Operation Deep Freeze had a warehouse in Lyttelton . .. and the first American-style coffee bar (Revells, now Lyttelton Takeaways). An early seamen's mission — Lyttelton Museum highlights Antarctic expedition vessels. which gave comfort to many an Quail Island became the stock been administered by the US National Antarctic crew, including that of the quarantine station during the heroic Science Foundation's Office of Polar Terra Nova — has been converted to era of Antarctica exploration because Programmes. After a 42 year involve the Lyttelton Museum and features of its natural water boundary. The ment by the US Navy, the operational an Antarctic Gallery. Genuine relics animals, Samoyed and Husky dogs, functions of the programme will from early Antarctic exploration are Manchurian ponies and Indian Army transfer from February 1998 to the on display including a sledge used by mules, which were an essential New York State Air National Guard. Shackleton. element of the expeditions of Scott, Until 1980 a North American Shackleton and Byrd, were trained on Indian totem pole "of friendship' the island. stood in the city's Hagley Park, a gift The island is today administered from the Oregon Centennial by the Department of Conservation, Commission and the Portland which has established an Zoological Society in appreciation of "Interpretation Centre" in the former the hospitality accorded to personnel manager's residence. of Operation Deep Freeze. At Christchurch Cathedral, at the At the top of the pole, now re beginning of the trail, an outdoor located to Christchurch airport, is the plaque is a memorial to those who American Thunderbird, traditional have given their lives to Antarctica. A Indian god of storm, honouring US second plaque, inside the imposing airmen who made their first supply cathedral, was presented to the drop at the South Pole in October people of New Zealand by the officers 1956. and men of Operation Deep Freeze, Another carved figure, the killer the United States Antarctic whale, honours US sailors who programme based from 1955 at opened sea lanes through the ice-pack Christchurch. to the continent. Continued on page 68 Statue of Robert Falcon Scott. From 1964 this programme has Continued from page 61

Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 61 Antarctic TOURISM CDC puts case Laying down the rules for for Antarctic industry grouping Antarctic tourism

Christchurch clearly has a very New Zealand has published the first motorised over-snow travel, strong and very visible association set of rules for operators in the paragliding and scuba diving: "... with Antarctica, and if a recent Antarctic. the recent substantial and sustained Cluster Meeting gathering in the The rules are for the Ross Sea growth in the number of tourists, and city is anything to go by, there Dependency and apply to New the expansion and diversification of exists a strong commitment to Zealand citizens and to citizens of activities give rise to concerns over develop a cluster of industry other countries which have signed the the potential for increased and cumu centred on the Antarctic. Antarctic Treaty. An operator from a lative environmental impact." The 7th August Cluster Muster, non-signatory country cannot be organised by the Canterbury made to abide by the rules. Development Corporation, exam The head of the Antarctic division 'While most tourists ined how clusters of industry of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and visitors arrive could be developed to act as the Stuart Prior, said the need for guide economic drivers of the local lines had become apparent as interna aboard ships for economy into the next century. tional operators target what he calls After an overview of the the "Theme Park Antarctica." sight-seeing, Canterbury region's business and The book says after fishing, infrastructural strengths, close to tourism is the main commercial enter increasing numbers 200 of the region's business, prise in Antarctica. In the 1995-96 are seeking education and community leaders summer about 9000 tourists visited joined together to identify and the subcontinent, mostly in the wilderness adventure.' map local industry clusters that Antarctic Peninsula, south of South were both 'real' and 'wanna be's'. America. About 95 per cent go by At some scientific stations restric Very much in the 'real' category commercial cruise ships. Last year tions have been placed on visitors and is Antarctica, with Christchurch 800 visited the Ross Sea. some overcrowding has occurred at already home to a critical mass of The book points out the scope of historic huts. organisations for which the conti tourism activities is changing. Under the rules operators will have nent is their core business: While most tourists and visitors to prepare environmental impact • Antarctica New Zealand arrive aboard ships for sight-seeing, assessments and will have to pay to • International Centre for increasing numbers are seeking have a New Zealand government Antarctic Information and wilderness adventure experience representative with them at all times Research such as mountaineering, skiing, they are in the dependency. • New Zealand Antarctic Society • Antarctic Heritage Trust • Deep Freeze and NZ Antarctic Getting the message across Programme Base arrival, and listen to the commentary • Antarctic Visitor Centre. by Roger Dennis The Visitor Centre at the as they move around the centre. At The challenge to build an International Antarctic Centre in various points, markings on the wall Antarctic industry cluster on this Christchurch is the first tourist attrac denote a number next to a flag. The already strong platform will be tion in New Zealand to make use of visitor selects the number which taken up in the next few months digital audio technology for multi corresponds to their flag, and enters with further opportunities in lingual commentary. this number on the handset keypad. science, research and develop The system, called Snowphone, is The commentary for the relevant ment, technology transfer, engi similar to a telephone handset and display then starts. It can be stopped, neering, servicing, education and carries a digitalised commentary in a paused, rewound or repeated as often tourism being identified in small computer chip. The 50 handsets as required. conjunction with a review of any carry half an hour of commentary in Mr Benton says that he had been infrastructural issues that might either English, Japanese, Korean, searching for a multi-lingual have potential to act as an impedi Thai, Mandarin, or German. The commentary system for some time, ment to growth. language on each handset can be and first saw the Acoustiguide at the For further information contact San Diego zoo. Acoustiguide also Chris Pickrill at the Canterbury changed in as little as 90 seconds, according to Richard Benton, general supply the commentary system for Development Corporation, phone manager Visitor Centre, International renowned attractions including the (03) 379 5575. Antarctic Centre. Louvre and the Empire State Visitors are issued the handsets on Building.

62 Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic GENERAL TVNZ Hillary WANTED Diary of Harry Neville Shrimpton, Series written during the Richard Byrd zzmm Expedition 1928-1930 on Can anyone help Bronwyn Taylor find her father's diary? Harry Neville Video Shrimpton, who died in 1988, was the radio operator on the 1928-30 Byrd Good news! :_i Expedition. After much public His diary was apparently lent to acclaim and popular someone at an Antarctic Society meeting demand, the in Wellington sometime during 1950 or recently screened .0 1951, but was not returned. four part TVNZ £" Shrimpton's second diary, which series entitled ™ describes his journey post-expedition (1930) from Dunedin to New York to 'Hillary — A View from the Top' will soon be receive the US congressional medal, is in a worn, black, soft-covered exercise book. available on video. His daughter assumes that the missing The series, which took seven diary (part one) might look the same. years to create, focuses on the life of Sir Edmund Hillary and his If anyone has the diary, or knows amazing exploits. where it might be, please contact It is hoped that readers of 'Antarctic' will be able to receive a Bronwyn Taylor at 71 Hatton Street, special offer when the video becomes available to the public. Wellington 5, New Zealand tel. (04) 476 See the next issue of 'Antarctic' for further details. 6369.

Antarctica New Ze Tihiiit

relflfil pi (d; ffimM g, promo realising opportunities for New Zealand

mi«^.lTt^rrrrrc-i pcoming cnristchurc Antarctic Science Beyond 2000: Report from a Antarctic Futures Workshop, April 1988. strategic science directions workshop- Scientific Committee lor Antarctic Resean 1996/97 Annual Report l, August 31^3 sT£^«-«ifgiEL_ Opportunities for post-graduate Antarctic Scholarships

Publications and conference circulars available from the Antarctica New Zealand library.

Antarctica New Zealand ernational Antarctic Centre, Orchard Road, Private Bag 4745, Christchurch, New! Telephone: +64 3 358 0200 Fax: +64 3 358 0211 >: http://www.antarcticanz.eovt.nz Antarctica New Zealand

Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic GENERAL Storm puts brake on Cape Roberts drilling

Scientists examining some of the core this season's drilling samples recovered from below the ocean floor. Logistics Manager Jim Cowie at the Cape Roberts Project base camp.

A severe storm brought this seasons drilling at Cape Roberts Professor Barrett said the project team had worked excep to a premature close in late October. tionally hard to establish camp in bitter weather, recover The two-day storm in the southern ocean cracked sea ice rock from a difficult hole, and then to evacuate a drill site at which had moved to within a kilometre of the project's 50- short notice. tonne drilling rig and caused huge swells under the drilling "We have made some significant finds, proven that the platform. technology works in this environment and built operational Twenty drillers and support staff, part of the six nation and science teams that put us in good stead for next year." research project being managed by Antarctica New Zealand, It is expected another hole will be drilled in October- were forced to evacuate the Cape Roberts area, 125km from November 1998. Scott Base. The decision to evacuate was taken after an aerial The Cape Roberts Project involves funding and scientific reconnaissance revealed fresh sea ice cracks. collaboration from the United States, Italy, New Zealand, Chief scientist Peter Barrett, of Wellington's Victoria Australia, Germany and Britain. Its aim is to determine University, said while the abandonment was disappointing, ancient scientific climatic conditions to support research into nearly 150m of rock core had been recovered from below the predicting the effects of the ice sheet on any future changes. ocean floor. Scientists had dated the rock at 17 to 22 million The research programme had been 10 years in the making years old. and had an operating budget of $8 million. Drillers were "This was a major surprise and an exciting one," Professor recruited from rigs around the world, including Papua New Barrett said of the first find. "It's a period of time not Guinea and Mongolia. An advance party had established the sampled before near the big Antarctic ice sheet." project's base camp and a route to the drilling area, about He had hoped to drill a second hole closer to shore to 16km offshore. reach rocks expected to be in the 30-70 million year old range Professor Barrett said the sedimentary rock was formed but the state of the sea ice platform, weakened by unseason up to 100 million years ago. "Like the pages of a history book ably warm temperatures and southerly storms, prevented it should reveal the changes in Antarctic climate conditions this. during this period and links to ice sheets and sea level."

The Cape Roberts drill site during dismantling after the October storm. Team leader Peter Bamett, of Victoria University, at the project camp site.

64 Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic GENERAL New evidence on ozone thinning 1998/99 SEASON ANTARCTICA the ultimate cruise experience aboard the Marco Polo

NASA maps show ozone thinning begins mid winter. New evidence has emerged that thinning of the ozone layer — previously regarded as a phenomena occurring in the southern hemisphere's spring — actually starts during Unequalled in value winter. . The Marco Polo brings Antarctic cruising into the realm The depletion process starts at the sun-lit edge of of the affordable. For instance, you can join one of our Antarctica, researchers from the British Antarctic Survey expeditions from just $8,295* including return airfare, first-class (who discovered the hole in the Earth's ozone layer in 1985) hotel accommodation, all shore excursions and meals onboard. and the University of Cambridge revealed in the October Unequalled in splendour Stunning icescapes, majestic glaciers, astounding wildlife and issue of "Science". a ship to take you there that is every bit as splendid as the scenery Their disclosure came as New Zealand's Institute of combine to make a cruise to Antarctica the ultimate travel adventure. Water and Atmospheric Research (NIWA) was declaring The Marco Polo, with its ice-strengthened hull and Zodiac landing craft, is uniquely suited for cruising these waters. And because of her the ozone hole over Antarctica "as severe as ever." luxurious facilities, she offers a level of graciousness and comfort not NIWA scientists at Scott Base have reported that the usually available in this remote part of the world. ozone layer's thickness has recently been close to record Four exciting voyages in 1998/99 lows. Satellite data from the US space agency NASA For the austral summer season of 1998/99, the Marco Polo will shows the ozone hole covering 25 million sq km (9.65 be returning to the White Continent with four stunning expeditions, one including the Falklands and one including a partial circum million sq miles), says NIWA. navigation of the continent, led by noted explorers and scientists. "The extent and severity of the 1997 hole is about the Passenger capacity will be limited, so book early. same as in each of the past five years, at about. 60% less 1997/98 season sold out. ozone than pre-1980," says NIWA. "The hole is at its worst in October and breaks up by early December." NIWA scientists expect severe ozone holes to develop Orient Lines annually for the next 20 years because of the residual Represented in New Zealand by Cruise Vacations (NZ) Ltd. amount of chlorine pollutants already in the Earth's atmos For further information contact your local travel agent or call phere. They say the ozone hole is formed by a combination of extremely cold temperatures, the return of sunlight to toll nann cruise the Antarctic and chlorine pollutants. FREE tfOUU(2 7 8473) NIWA claims that "virtually all of the ozone in the CRUISE THE WORLD ABOARD THE MARCO POLO Great value cruise holidays to the world's great destinations: Antarctic atmosphere between 14-20kms ((9-13 miles) has Greek Isles ♦ Mediterranean ♦ Africa ♦ Egypt ♦ Indian Ocean been destroyed by chlorine pollutants released from Southeast Asia ♦ New Zealand ♦ Australia ♦ Antarctica choroflourocarbons (CFC's)". * Price shown is per |x.'rson based on two sharing cat. K and includes the Use of CFCs, found mainly in aerosols, refrigerators and •arly booking discount applicable to bookings confirmed More Dec 1, '97 air conditioners, are to be phased out under the terms of CALL FOR A BROCHURE TODAY the 1987 Montreal Protocol. New Zealand enacted the Ozone Layer Protection Act 1991 to try to reverse the damage to the ozone layer which shields the Earth from harmful ultraviolet rays from the Sun. Continued on page 68

Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 65 Antarctic

Iceberg Devastation Creates New Life

In protected areas a highly abun scientists has found many more By Dr Lloyd dant and diverse fauna exists, even in pelagic larvae than expected. Recent Peck, British shallow sites. The diversity of these studies have also shown that devel Antarctic organisms is so high that the long- opment rates in cold water Survey. held belief that animal diversity ectotherms are dramatically slowed, Presented at the decreases towards the poles has such that in many species, including British recently been refuted for benthic nemertean worms, sea urchins and Association marine species in the Southern starfish, the time taken to complete Annual Science Hemisphere. Abundances in the larval phase often exceeds 100 Festival protected sites are so high that days and may be as long as 150 to 200 surfaces are completely covered. In days. The circumpolar current exposed, highly impacted areas moving around the Southern Ocean, Researchers from British Antarctic ephemeral annual species colonise and the gyres associated with it in the Survey (BAS) have found that every some surfaces, but the macrofauna Weddell and Bellingshausen seas year massive iceberg impact totally are restricted to a few mobile species. have mean current speeds of around removes all large animals and micro These include migratory populations 1 knot. At these speeds a larva could scopic organisms from some Antarctic shallow marine environments. The devastation creates remarkable oppor tunities for new life. Iceberg disturbance not only acts as a destructive force, but also clears areas for new colonisation of larvae from distances up to several thou sands of kilometres away. This is a major factor enhancing the diversity and abundance of marine benthic communities in this highly dynamic ecosystem. Several mechanisms are important in the return of species to an impacted site, including storm- induced water movements and recolonisation by larval forms. A British Antarctic Survey diver looks for samples under the ice. Each year an area of sea ice about twice the size of Europe (15 million km2) forms during winter and melts in summer. Large glaciers discharge around 1500 billion tonnes of ice into the sea annually. Consequently, the sea is filled with ice ranging from single crystals to bergs up to hundreds of kilometres long and draughts over 400 metres deep. Wind and currents at speeds which may at times approach Nemertean worms. 5kph move this ice. Slow-developing starfish. The destructive capacity of objects this size, even when moving at only a of the limpet Nacella concinna and the travel distances in excess of 5000km few kilometres per hour, is immense. urchin Sterechinus neumayeri. Between to colonise new sites. Biological communities living on the these two extremes a mosaic of distur Investigations of the sediment- seabed are subject to disturbances bance levels exists producing a great living bivalve mollusc Yoldia eightsi ranging from minor impacts to total variety of habitat types. have shown that in areas where destruction. Generally the shallower a Traditionally it has been thought iceberg impacts are common, popula site the more frequently it is disturbed. that very few benthic species living in tions are dominated by small juvenile The vast majority of habitats less than Antarctica produced larvae which individuals. Less disturbed sites, on three metres deep are swept clean of were transported in the water the other hand, are dominated by life every year, and often several times column. However, over the last three large aged specimens which inhibit per year by brash and anchor ice. years work in Antarctica by BAS recruitment of larvae. Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic EDUCATION The LEARNZ Initiative LEARNZ — the education programme for schoolchildren around New Zealand — has been taking students on an electronic trip to Antarctica for three years. The programme is led by Pete Sommerville, LEARNZ (Linking Education Antarctic Research in New

Zealand). Pete works at the LEARNZ leaders Pete Sommerville and Pauline Donaldson at Cape Roberts. International Centre for Antarctic Information and Research (ICAIR) and the international research camp at funding can be raised to run the 1998 has been the driving force behind the Cape Roberts. Many schools were LEARNZ programme. popular LEARNZ initiative. thrilled with being able to share the If funding can not be found. The Improving communication between experience. LEARNZ programme will not be able teachers and the science community is As 1998 is the Year of the Ocean, to operate in 1998. However it will one of the primary objectives of organisers hope to be able to focus on return for the austral winter in 1999 as LEARNZ. Each programme is built on the Southern Ocean. Bu Windsor, the National Science Foundation have Antarctic research projects with a teaching principal at Mount Cook offered LEARNZ a berth for a New selected teacher assisting in the inter school, has been supported by NIWA Zealand teacher to sail aboard the pretation of the science and the prepa to travel to the Campbell Plateau, Nathaniel B Palmer state-of-the-art US ration of the learning modules. The South of Stewart Island in the ice breaking research vessel. Details of programmes also share the issues and Southern Ocean, on the two berth the 1999 programme are yet to be adventure of Antarctica with schools Tangaroa research vessel. LEARNZ finalised. through live audio conference and hopes that Ms Windsor will also be the Internet links. In 1997 LEARNZ regis 1998 LEARNZ teacher onboard the For information about the LEARNZ tered schools enjoyed live links at the oceanographic research cruise and programmes or to discuss sponsorship 21st Antarctic Treaty Consultative focus on the education resources please contact Pete Sommerville at ICAIR on Tel: + 64 3 353 7791, Meeting; at the International distributed to participating schools. Fax: +64 3 353 7799, or Antarctic Centre; during Antarctic But, despite the publicity and praise, Field Training; from Scott Base and at this all depends on whether sufficient E-mail: [email protected] Otago and Auckland Students Win Antarctic Scholarships Otago students Stephen Read and cooled from their molten state. Fie will The 1997 $10,000 Kelly Tarlton's Brent Sinclair have won the inaugural spend five weeks in the mountains Antarctic Scholarship was awarded to Sir Robin Irvine Antarctic Scholarship, with three other Otago University an Auckland University masters named in honour of a former Otago scientists during the 1997/8 summer student. Lara Wilcocks will study University Vice Chancellor. season. wave motion in sea ice, an important Funded by Antarctica New Brent Sinclair, who is also studying factor in understanding climate change Zealand, the $10,000 scholarships are for a doctorate, will spend time on his in the Antarctic. She will work for five designed to encourage young scien hands and knees near a penguin weeks from a containerised camp on tists into the field of Antarctic research, colony on the northern tip of Ross the sea ice north of Scott Base, part of a cause championed by Sir Robin Island. He will examine tiny inverte an international team led by scientists before his death last year while brate animals which live among from Industrial Research Limited and chairman of Antarctica New Zealand's mosses and lichens, dependent on New Zealand universities. board of directors. The scholarships brief summer melt water from glac Antarctica New Zealand chief exec were presented to the students by iers. His research will focus on how utive Gillian Wratt said a record Lady Irvine in August. these animals survive such low number of 16 applications were PhD student Stephen Read will visit temperatures and any possible effects received for the scholarships this year, remote areas of the Transantarctic of climate change on their populations. from universities throughout New Mountains to examine a suite of 500 It will involve technologies ranging Zealand. million-year-old rocks and collect from a computer-controlled cooling samples for sophisticated chemical system to plastic cloches, familiar to 1998 Antarctic Scholarships analysis. His results are expected to spring-time gardeners. He will make New Zealanders who wish to apply help unravel the history of movement three visits to Cape Bird over the for the 1998 postgraduate scholar of the earth's crustal plates around the summer with other scientists from ships can contact Antarctica New time that the rocks were formed, then Otago University. Zealand on telephone (03) 358 0200. Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic

New evidence on Gateway City Blazes a Trail

ozone thinning The American eagle, grizzly bear facility opened in 1992 featuring an and beaver are also represented on Antarctic Snow and Ice experience. Continued front page 65 the pole. The Antarctic Heritage Trail was Antarctic ozone depletion occurs The airport is also the location of launched as a project of the under very specific conditions. the International Antarctic Centre, Christchurch City Council to rein When temperatures in the layer opened in 1990 as the headquarters force the attraction to visitors of the get cold enough, says the British facility of Antarctica New Zealand, city's deep historical and current Antarctic Survey, icy clouds can the organisation spearheading commitment to the Antarctic. form that in association with New Zealand's strategic objectives "We want to encourage tourists sunlight activate chlorine and in Antarctica. to stay longer in the city and appre bromine gases that destroy ozone. The facility, part of the Heritage ciate its heritage," says John The new British observations Trail, also houses the Antarctic Dryden, head of the city's environ were made at Faraday Station Heritage Trust, the United States' mental Policy and Planning Unit. ("Vernadsky") at the edge of Office of Polar Programmes, Italian "We also hope that the trail will Antarctica (-65°S), using a new year- Antarctic programme, the help to promote the excellent round instrument. International Centre for Antarctic facility at the Antarctic Visitor Previous instruments could not Information and Research, the Centre." take measurements during the Antarctic Library, an Antarctic The city is not being complacent Antarctic winter because of a design passenger terminal and cargo about its relationship with the requirement for sunlight at ultravi storage. southern continent. It will soon olet wavelengths which are scarce Adjacent to the complex is the host a forum which will look ahead during winter. Antarctic Visitor Centre, an interac to the strategic future of Antarctica. The observations show a decline tively themed fun and educational (See separate story on page 52). in ozone from mid-winter, due to chemical depletion by reactive chlo rine and bromine compounds. "We now have a new perspective on the Antarctic ozone hole," says BAS's Dr Howard Roscoe, noting the start each year in mid-winter at the edge of the continent. "This is important because ozone- poor air from the edge of the ozone hole regularly passes over southern South America, exposing popula tions to larger than normal doses of damaging ultra-violet radiation." BAS have installed a detection network based on the new Systeme d'Analyse d'Observations Zenithales (SAOZ) detection instru ment devised by Dr Jean-Pierre Pommereau of Service d'Aeronomie du CNRS, Paris, in the mid 1980s. The instrument looks at the spec Lamest Shackleton's ship Nimrod returns to Lyttelton during the 1907 - 1909 expedition. trum of the weak absorption bands of ozone in visible light, using a amount of ozone measured in the photodiode array originally devel path of this scattered light to be EP/TOMS Total Ozone for Oct 14, 1997 oped for facsimile and bar-code related to the amount of ozone in a readers, to detect light at all visible vertical path. wavelengths. The calculation is more accurate Because the absorption bands are for light at visible wavelengths than weak, the instrument observes their at UV wavelengths because there is structure over a wide range of wave less scattering at visible wave lengths to discriminate absorption lengths. by ozone from scattering by air Older instruments for measuring molecules in the atmosphere. ozone look at the strong absorption Because the light is at visible wave bands of ozone in UV sunlight, 8 8 8 8 § § § I '«••• *- Dobson Unilo csrc/9i lengths, ozone can be measured using a pair of vacuum tubes (photo- even when the sun is at the horizon. multipliers) to detect light at two New observation instruments track ozone Modern computers record the wavelengths. levels year-round. Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic BOOK REVIEW The Silence Calling

Australians in Antarctica 1947-97 was first made by Sir Douglas Broadcasting Commission Social (The ANARE Jubilee History) Mawson during his three expeditions History Unit and for the recording of by Tim Bowden between 1911 and 1931. A small two documentary series. Published by Allen and Unwin, St amount of scientific work was Above all he is highly enthusiastic Leonards, NSW 1997. Recommended included in the early wintering expe about all things Antarctic and this retail price Aus $59.95. Reviewed by ditions, almost as a by-product of the shows on every page. He has made an Malcolm Kir ton. "flying the flag" occupations. excellent job of the book, tracing the This increased year by year, also development of programmes and Fifty years ago, on November 17, other government departments and policies over 50 years (about 178 1947, the first of the Australian universities were brought into station-years), detailing the major National Antarctic Research ANARE to pursue their scientific activities, achievements, successes Expeditions (ANARE) sailed from disciplines. and disasters. This is leavened with a Melbourne on a war-surplus "landing nice selection of personal anecdotes of ship tank" (LST 3501, later renamed The quality of the results station life. HMAS Labuan) to establish a Australia's Antarctic activities have research station on sub-Antarctic produced gave Australia often been controversial and Tim has Heard Island. a respected voice in researched an astonishing amount of This accomplished, the ship government documents to present a returned to Melbourne and departed Antarctic affairs as a full picture of these. A very strong again on February 28, 1948 to estab member of the Antarctic esprit de corps developed among lish a similar station on Macquarie expeditioners, past expeditioners and Island. During this 1947-48 summer a Treaty group of nations.' head office staff, all committed to the third expedition on board HMAS success of the Antarctic programmes. Wyatt Earp (Lincoln Ellsworth's old The advent of the International The reverse was often true on the part ship) attempted to reach continental Geophysical Year (IGY) of 1958 gave of the political and bureaucratic Antarctica to explore possible loca additional stimulation to the politi masters of ANARE, some of whose tions for stations there. The chief cians to increase funding for science. decisions had very negative impacts scientist on this voyage was Dr Phillip Thus the IGY saw Australia with on the work of the people in Law, who went on to lead subsequent three well established stations of Antarctica. expeditions for the next eighteen Mawson, Davis and Macquarie Island This book is an important contribu years as Director of the Australian up and running with scientific tion to Antarctic history, covering 50 Antarctic Division. programmes. years of, for most of the time, very Both ships proved ill-suited for The quality of the results produced praiseworthy achievements. If it does voyages in the Southern Ocean, in by these gave Australia a respected nothing else it will show the fact they were in situations of consid voice in Antarctic affairs as a member Australian taxpayers that they have erable danger at times. Nevertheless of the Antarctic Treaty group of received good value for their tax Heard and Macquarie Islands' nations. In the subsequent 40 years contributions. stations were maintained until 1954 programmes have advanced and (Malcolm Kirton is president of the when the first of the famous "Dan" technology has revolutionised data ANARE Club and editor of "Aurora — ships became available. These were gathering. Australia's Antarctic Journal") ice-strengthened ships owned by the Now the focus of Antarctic science Lauritzen Company of Denmark and is on global climate change and envi in turn the Australian Government ronmental protection. These are of "Lonely Planet chartered Kista Dan, Thala Dan, Magga such widespread concern that we Dan and Nella Dan. These enabled now have a situation of science Antarctica" ANARE to reach the continent of driving politics instead of the reverse Antarctica and Mawson Station was as during the first years of ANARE. by Jeff Rubin established, followed by Davis in To commemorate the fiftieth year Reviezved by Malcolm Macfarlane 1957. Wilkes was taken over from the of ANARE this year, the Australian USA in 1959 and replaced by Casey Antarctic Division and the ANARE Such a guide in the style of the Lonely station in 1968. Also over this period, Club have organised a number of Planet's Antarctica has been long during each summer, Law led explo celebratory events. The major one required to serve both the needs of ration teams which mapped the was to commission Tim Bowden to the Antarctic tourist and armchair Australian Antarctic Territory. write this book. Tim is well qualified visitor. In the first of a number of The political incentive to establish for the task; he is an historian and guide books due to be published, Jeff these stations was the need to rein former war correspondent who made Rubin provides readers with a gener force Australia's territorial claim to a several visits to Antarctica in connec ally well researched wealth of infor large slice of Antarctica. This claim tion with his work for the Australian mation. Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 69 Antarctic BOOK REVIEW

The first parts of the guide are very (Deception Island); life aboard a begins only a short distance from the comprehensive, although somewhat tourist vessel; and hints on taking area usually frequented by visiting hard to find one's way about at times. photos in Antarctica. Most of the first- tourists. Similarly there is no mention However, the site guide section does time visitor's questions are well of the protected area just above the let the rest of the book down some answered in these sections. beach at nearby Pendulum Cove. what. Thirty-two pages are dedicated to a The Antarctic Peninsula and the This guide covers six main areas for wildlife guide (by John Cooper) Weddell Sea chapter covers many of the potential Antarctic visitor: back which covers most marine mammals the likely tourist stops but some are ground information about Antarctica; and birds likely to be encountered. missing. The entry for Paradise facts for the visitor, a wildlife guide; Colour photographs and drawings Harbour is somewhat confused. The visitor information for the gateways are provided. While the coverage is guide mixes up the positions of the to Antarctica; and lastly, a hundred comprehensive, this section suffers separate Chilean and Argentine pages covering places that have been from some poor depictions of whales Stations in the Harbour. visited (or plan to be) in the Antarctic and some incorrect photo captions and Subantarctic islands. and detail (blue whales are not the The Italian station at Background facts and facts for the only baleen whale to show flukes on visitor are covered well and in many diving, humpbacks do as well; Terra Nova Bay rates ways represent the most concise studies have shown Weddell seal only a brief three line update of general Antarctic informa dive depths to be up to 600 metres, tion since the publication of the not 60 metres; female crabeater seals mention and is said to Readers Digest's Antarctica. Here are generally larger than males, not have Antarctica's best information is to be found on: smaller). Internet web pages dealing with Antarctic gateway information is espresso.' Antarctica; general publications; how credited to other relevant Lonely to get to Antarctica; novels written Planet guides and covers Cape Town, The Ross Sea chapter details most which include an Antarctic theme; an Christchurch, Hobart, Punta Arenas, sites in the Ross Dependency, extensive listing of films and docu Stanley and Ushuaia. Missing, however, curiously, one of only three mentaries made; maps and charts that perhaps, is Buenos Aires as an station maps appears here, McMurdo are available; and the various soci increasing number of early season Station (Grytviken whaling station eties and publications catering for the cruises now begin from there. and South Pole are the others). Pole Antarctican. Antarctic and sub-antarctic tourist and McMurdo receive a very dispro By devoting many pages to contri destinations are dealt with in the final portionate amount of coverage butions from acknowledged authori five chapters, each progressively compared to the actual numbers of ties on Antarctic subjects the author smaller than the last. These chapters visitors. For some reason the author provides up to date information for may not provide the traveller with the has chosen to provide more interpre the reader. Contributions cover a level of detail they may expect on the tative information for McMurdo and diverse range of subjects including: places they are likely to visit. Maps Pole ahead of Whalers Bay, Deception Antarctic science (David Walton); accurately locate main islands and Island or about any of the more environmental issues (Maj de geographical locations and informa frequented historic sites. Poorter) and a private expeditions tion on discovery and history is The Italian station at Terra Nova summary which is the most recent provided. The level of detail varies Bay rates only a brief three line available (Colin Monteath). In addi from very good and comprehensive mention and is said to have tion, detail on a wide range of inter to very brief. Antarctica's best espresso. The station esting topics is covered in numerous Southern Ocean and Sub-antarctic does not even find its way on to the sidebars such as the most frequently Islands covers all the Southern map of stations in the Ross Sea - visited Antarctic tourist sites Ocean's Sub-antarctic Islands plus the sizeable omission. island chain of the There is a wealth of good informa Sen-Ice Buoy &Deployment South Shetland tion in this guide. It provides most of Scales Thickness Study Islands. While the information a traveller is likely to Whaler's Bay at need before setting off and includes Deception Island the most up to date single listing of receives the largest 'things Antarctic' which the traveller number of visitors ■Antarctic Marine Science may use both before and after 'f&SSffS!* on an annual basis visiting the continent. The plentiful there is no map of maps are of the good quality we have * this extensive site to come to expect from Lonely Planet. guide the visitor While it is let down by a number of ashore. Flere the small errors, a lack of interpretative guide makes one of material for the onshore visitor and its most significant guidance on where you may or may PLANNED not go once ashore, this is a valuable 1997-98 ANARE omissions; there is OPERATIONAL AREA no mention of the reference book for the Antarctic trav protected area that eller. Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 Antarctic FEATURE Exploring the unknown

October 3rd, 1957 was the last time Part IV of a series by month's food supply, it returned to the New Zealand team was all Margaret Bradshaw Scott Base carrying the historic items. together at Scott Base. As the month On 14 October, the day that the progressed, the four main summer present obstacles for a sledging party. Northern Party reached Cape Roberts parties left the base, returning to New The early days of the Northern to the south of Granite Harbour, the Zealand at different times as their Party, after they had travelled round polar tractor party left Scott Base with journeys ended. McMurdo Sound, were not without Ed Hillary on the lead tractor, First away was the Northern Party incident. First there was a dog-fight followed by Ron Balham and Peter on 4 October to explore the on the way to Gneiss Point which Mulgrew driving the other two Transantarctic Mountains between the blinded dog Joe. Then a crevasse Fergusons. The tractors towed seven Mawson and Mulock Glaciers. bridge broke under the dogs when sledges, and Murray Ellis, bringing Richard Brooke, Bernie Gunn, Guyon the teams began to climb up on to the up the rear in the Weasel, was towing Warren and Murray Douglas left Scott Wilson Piedmont Glacier in the Bay of the "caboose", a two bunk fibreboard Base with two dog teams on a bitterly Sails. The unfortunate Joe, together and canvas contraption heated by the with Dismal, fell weasel's exhaust. deep into the Over the winter and spring, the crevasse when their Ferguson tractors had been modified, harness rings broke. tested and tried, and Ed Hillary was Richard Brooke was convinced of their capability to travel lowered into the far on to the Polar Plateau. crevasse and found Four days later, while the tractor the dogs 10 metres party was still driving towards the down wedged in mouth of the Skelton Glacier, Bob delicately poised Miller and George Marsh were flown soft snow which Joe into Skelton Depot at the bottom of had half broken the Skelton Glacier by Bill Cranfield through. The dogs in the Beaver, accompanied by six were silent and dogs, camping gear and food. Lines of subdued, although hard sastrugi at the depot severely

The Auster and the Northern Party camp at Granite Harbour obviously pleased jolted the Beaver when it tried to land Photo courtesy of Antarctica New '/.calami Archives. to see their driver, across them into the wind, giving Bob who held on to Miller, unsecured in the back of the cold day with temperatures -30°C. them to prevent them falling further plane with the dogs and supplies, a Happily, it was the only really cold until another rope could be lowered. hard time and nearly sending him day of their four month expedition. By 10 October the Northern Party through the roof. Bill Cranfield The route for their journey had been had reached and climbed Mt Newell powered off the surface and after a carefully chosen after a photographic on the south side of the lower Wright couple of circuits landed cross-wind flight made by John Clay don, Bob Valley, where they set up an impor along the lines of sastrugi. After Miller, Richard Brooke and Bernie tant survey station. Returning to unloading, take-off was just as hair- Gunn in the previous autumn. A travel along the sea ice, they paused raising when a side wind gust lifted further flight, with Richard Brooke in to kill a seal for the dogs, then trav one side of the plane before it had the spring, to look specifically at the elled north to Cape Roberts. Halfway become airborne. Fry Glacier as a route into the interior there Brooke had to race back to help In the evening of the same day the emphasised how useful the small right a sledge that had capsized and Beaver returned piloted by John New Zealand planes were in recon trapped Guyon Warren's legs. Claydon. More dogs and equipment noitring potential routes, saving a lot Murray Douglas was of time in the field. On the Fry Glacier taking most of the weight flight the Auster encountered a strong of the sledge, and only katabatic wind which, on their second Guyon's ski was broken. attempt, they "rode" up the glacier Surveying at Cape "bouncing like a dingy in a choppy Roberts, the party found a sea". Potential obstacles were identi cairn left by Griffith fied on the Fry and Mackay Glaciers Taylor's party in 1911, and and this led to a further flight, the day nearby, a blubber stove, before the party left, to "recce" a some clothing and a film- possible route up the Mawson Glacier changing bag. When the Tractor parly laying a depot on the Polar Plateau. to the north, but this too seemed to Auster flew in with a Photo courtesy of Antarctica New Zealand Archives.

Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 71 Antarctic were unloaded. Jim Bates also arrived Lower Staircase, they were met by Meanwhile, the Northern Party battling a bout of influenza that had Hillary and Mulgrew in the Weasel, had established a series of survey arrived in the south with the new backtracking to search for the dog stations in the lower Mackay and season's base staff. John Claydon was teams. Benson Glaciers. Surveying is a far able to report that the tractor party On 28 October the dog teams left from glamorous task in the Antarctic, was about 80km away but had halted early in cloudy conditions and poor especially in low temperatures and a for the day with engine trouble in the visibility to climb the Upper Staircase, wind, for not only did fingers become Weasel. Consequently, the depot navigating by compass and leaving numb, but there was the additional party was surprised when the tractor marker flags. By the early afternoon danger of faces freezing on to the party roared into camp in time for they had travelled 24km, climbed 730 theodolite. breakfast the following morning. metres and had reached the edge of Returning again to the coast, stress While the tractor party slept, Jim the Skelton Neve. Four hours later the levels rose more than usual when Bates attempted to mend the Weasel tractor party joined them, although at after one capsize the local seals which involved lifting out the whole times it had been necessary to get out decided to launch an attack on the engine with a special frame and _ pinioned dogs. endless chain. Later Murray Ellis On 24 October John Claydon took over from Jim Bates. flew Ted Gawn into Cape Ross to Bob Miller and George Marsh replace their faulty radio. Soon began moving up the Skelton after that the party split up to Glacier with their dog teams on 22 make the best use of the time. October, breaking ground for the Richard Brooke and Guyon tractor party behind, but they Warren surveyed in the Fry found the sastrugi hard going. Glacier while Murray Douglas Capsized sledges were too heavy and Bernie Gunn travelled to right single-handed and had to further north, then inland up the be unloaded first. By the end of . lower Mawson Glacier to climb the day the two men had dealt I Mt Gauss. The two parties with 13 capsizes in a distance of rejoined north of Granite 29km. The tractors following had Harbour and travelled south to no such problem, and although a£ Cape Roberts before relaying the towed sledges yawed wildly h— supplies up on to the Wilson from side to side, they did not tip Ld Hillary leading the tractor train from Depot 480. Piedmont and into the Debenham Photo courtesy of Antarctic ew '/.calami Archives. over. Glacier. Here they again split into Bad weather a few days later of the tractor to see their tracks. On two groups, Murray Douglas and emphasised the differences between the steeper sections the sledges had to Bernie Gunn relaying loads to the the capacity of machines and dogs in be relayed. In Hillary's words as they head of the Debenham Glacier and poor conditions. Halted by a blizzard emerged onto the Neve: "The worst Guyon Warren and Richard Brooke howling down the glacier, which was now behind". exploring the glacier south of the made the dog teams almost invisible The next day (the 29th) as the Johns Range to set up a survey station to each other, Bob Miller and George tractor party climbed towards the with a view into the Dry Valleys. The Marsh huddled for shelter behind Portal between Portal Mountain and glacier route that Guyon Warren and their sledges to wait for it to clear. Mt Feather, they were overflown by Richard Brooke ascended was so slow During a slight lull, they watched the John Claydon in the Beaver, who and difficult that they named it the tractor team, unhindered by the dropped a message to say he had just Purgatory Glacier. With a snow storm wind, roar past them a mere 20 deposited Harry Ayres and Roy approaching, they had time for only a metres away, completely unaware of Carlyon and some of their dogs near quick round of sights from the top of the sheltering men. Unable to follow Polar Depot. The tractor party Purgatory Peak before returning to them into the teeth of the gale, Miller camped quite close to Portal camp. and Marsh eventually had to pitch Mountain then continued to join the About the same time, in the rolling tent, a task that took 90 minutes others on the edge of the Polar expanse of white on the edge of the fighting the wind. Meanwhile, the Plateau on 31 October. Bob Miller and Polar Plateau, the tractor party was tractor train had reached an area of George Marsh meanwhile, had been having difficulty locating Plateau blue ice in which the narrow forced to remain at the top of the Depot left the previous autumn. It crevasses were clearly visible and Staircase with the dogs because of was eventually located by John across which they lurched, leaving blizzards. After the exhausting job of Claydon in the Beaver aircraft who behind them a trail of broken snow digging out their tent and sledges, marked its position to the men on the bridges. They began to climb the glac they began travelling again on 1 ground by flying straight between the ier's Lower Staircase to the Landing November in white-out conditions. depot and the tractor camp while Bob beyond, while behind them Bob Sastrugi, the steep gradient and low Miller lined up flags at 100 metre Miller and George Marsh struggled temperatures slowed their travel, and intervals. When the direction was on with the dog teams, still battling late that day they camped a mere two followed on the ground, however, the blizzards, and with Bob suffering miles away from the invisible Plateau weather closed in and the flags from the "Scott Base flu". On the Depot tractor camp. became invisible. The only way was Vol 15 No. 3, 1997 FEATURE Antarctic

with a surface covered by dry England or the iniquity of death soft snow. This, following a duties." It was now George's turn to week's inactivity, left the pulling succumb to the flu. The tractor party, dogs and the pushing men unhindered by the blizzard had totally exhausted, despite some passed 8km to the west, avoiding the of the supplies being off-loaded crevasses. and left. After four days of slow The Northern Party had again ■ess, always uphill, the joined up and were forcing an sledges reached a point where awkward route from the Debenham the Plateau seemed to fall south Glacier over into the Miller Glacier. wards. Here they built a large Bernie Gunn and Richard Brooke set . . marker cairn. up a survey station at the southern The other men had now end of the spectacular Killer Ridge returned from Scott Base. Some and established two more stations I of the drivers had changed. further down the glacier on the Murray Ellis was still conva slopes of Mt Mahony, while Guyon lescing and Ian Wright, camera- Warren and Murray Douglas geolo '"' man from the previous summer, Guyon Warren (left) and Murray Douglas with a radio on the gised and looked after the dogs. Miller Glacier. Photo courtesy of Antarctica Nnv Zealand Archives. was immediately comman Soon after an air drop of mail, the for a man on the sledge behind the cdeered as a driver. After returning party began relaying loads north to tractor to give steering directions to from f base, Peter Mulgrew had the edge of the Mackay Glacier, keep the tractor as straight as sslipped off the roof of the caboose crossing unpleasant, rippled blue ice. possible. vwhile fixing an aerial and had frac They camped below Mt Suess, and At last the depot was reached and tured t several ribs. Ted Gawn was like Griffith Taylor's party before the men found a large windscoop on aasked to let Peter Mulgrew do his them, discovered ancient fish fossils one side and a huge snow dune on the baset radio duties to allow his ribs to in the moraine, but none in the lee side that reached to the top of the hheal, and Ted became the second outcrops. On the 21 November they pile of supplies. Over several days the rreplacement driver. began travelling up the southern side entire depot, which included impor On the same day that the dog teams of the Mackay Glacier, relaying loads tant stocks of dog pemmican and fuel, vwere building their cairn, 12 and setting up a survey station on was shifted to the new camp. The F"November, Ed Hillary and his tractor Detour Nunatak. Turning north only mishap was Murray Ellis t«team left Plateau Depot pulling a total towards Gateway Nunatak, then injuring his back, and though deter- 1Mulock Glacier began been climbing the Mackay Glacier, innovative Jim Bates also got Roy ddraining off the Plateau. Yet another the tractors were finding the going Carlyon and Bob Miller to help fuse bblizzard kept them tent bound, this better further south because of sulphur on to the tractor sledge titime for three days. Bob Miller harder surfaces, although the canvas runners with a welding torch to nrecorded the following in his diary shelters were far from adequate in reduce friction. r

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RNZAF staff, manning air support "Darwin Depot" for the tractor train, dig themselves out after a storm. Photo courtesy of Antarctica New /calami Archive. Members should direct other inquiries to their local branch. They immediately turned west to south as the proposed Depot 700. get out of the crevasse field, but the Bob Miller and George Marsh were Secretary, situation grew worse. In a baptism of eager to explore the Queen Auckland Branch, fire, Ted Gawn found his tractor with Alexandra Mountains, and Flarry New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., P O Box 8062 a large hole behind him and an open Ayres and Roy Carlyon hoped to AUCKLAND 1035 crevasse straight ahead. The party investigate the Darwin Glacier was tired and stressed and camped region. Secretary, where they were. Far away on the While they rested at Depot 480, the Wellington Branch, New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., other side of the continent, Sir Vivian team discussed the idea of a Midway PO Box 2110 Fuchs' main crossing party had just Depot to support the dog teams. The WELLINGTON 6000 left Shackleton Base. Better weather sun at last came out and the exact conditions the following day and Secretary, position of the depot could be calcu Canterbury Branch some careful probing on foot lated. Even so, without accurate New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., allowed the New Zealanders to flag a maps or landmarks, locating the P O Box 404 route out of the crevasse field. depot from the air still posed naviga CHRISTCHURCH 8000 On 25 November, after travelling tional problems for John Claydon in Secretary about 340km from Plateau Depot, the Beaver, flying in with a now fit Otago Branch they reached a site suitable for an Murray Ellis on 29 November. The New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., aircraft landing and began laying small group of black dots on a huge P O Box 7083 DUNEDIN 9030 Depot 480. The dog teams were now white expanse was not easy to pick also travelling, although poor visi out from the air. Overseas Branch Secretary bility and an overcast sky made navi Several weeks before this flight, New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., and on his own initiative, John P O Box 404 gation difficult. They failed to pick Christchurch 8000 up the tractor tracks, and at one Claydon decided to establish an air NEW ZEALAND stage, unable to use the sun compass, staging depot about halfway were convinced they were going in between Scott Base and Depot 480 to the wrong direction. Steering by help ferry supplies onto the Plateau. Advertising Enquiries to the: Sited near the mouth of the Darwin magnetic compass alone, they almost National Treasurer over-shot the tractor camp only Glacier, and manned by Peter Tate New Zealand Antarctic Society Inc., 13km away but barely visible in the and Ian Chapman of the summer P O Box 404 undulating terrain. party of the RNZAF Antarctic Flight, Christchurch 8000 After three weeks without the sun the depot was called "Darwin New Zealand and travelling into the wind, the Depot". It was fully stocked during dog-men appeared battle-worn. five flights on 28 November, the day Deadlines for advertising and copy are the 20th of each month proceeding Harry Ayres, Bob Miller and Roy before the first flight to Depot 480, publication. Carlyon all showed frostbite scars on constituting an Antarctic record of 31 their faces. Despite some excellent hours flying in one aircraft in under travelling days when they covered two days. No sooner had the Beaver 32km, the dog teams were disap done this, it was then flying in a pointed at the time they had taken to depot to the Northern Party, who cover the 340km. On the other hand, had paid a visit to Carapace Nunatak the tractors had performed well and while they waited, finding some it now seemed unnecessary for all fascinating geology there. four dog teams to proceed as far To be continued . . .

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