Pre-Departure Information

HIKER'S JOURNEY TO THE CAUCASUS Table of Contents

TRAVEL INFORMATION Passport Visas Money Tipping Special Diets Communications

MEDICAL INFORMATION Inoculations Staying Healthy Getting In Shape

HELPFUL INFORMATION Photography Being a Considerate Traveler

PACKING LIST The Essentials WT Gear Store Luggage Notes on Clothing Clothing Equipment Personal First Aid Supplies Optional Items

READING LIST Essential Reading Also Recommended Reminders Before You Go

WELCOME!

We’re delighted to welcome you on this adventure! This booklet is designed to guide you in the practical details for preparing for your trip. As you read, if any questions come to mind, feel free to give us a call or send us an email—we’re here to help.

PLEASE SEND US

Trip Application: Complete, sign, and return your Trip Application form as soon as possible if you have not already done so. Medical Form: Complete, sign, and return your Medical Form as soon as possible if you have not already done so. Air Schedule: Please forward a copy of your email confirmation, which shows your exact flight arrival and departure times. Refer to the Arrival & Departure section of the Detailed Itinerary for instructions. Please review your proposed schedule with Wilderness Travel before purchasing your tickets. Vaccination Card: Please send us a photo or scanned copy of your completed Covid-19 Vaccination Card if you have not already done so. Just the front side of the card is sufficient.

PLEASE CAREFULLY REVIEW

Travel Documents & Medical Information: Carefully review the Travel Documents and Medical Information sections of this booklet to familiarize yourself with Passport and Visa entry requirements for your destination, as well as any recommended inoculations. Optional Travel Insurance: Review the Trip Cancellation & Transfer Fee Schedule included in the Detailed Itinerary. We recommend that all trip members purchase Travel Insurance. Extra Services: Request any Extra Services (hotel nights, transfers, extensions) with your WT office contact using the Extra Services Request Form sent with your confirmation packet. Final Documents: Approximately three weeks before your trip, we will send you final departure documents, including hotel and local contact information and rendezvous instructions.

QUESTIONS?

Call: 1-800-368-2794, go to our website (www.wildernesstravel.com) or e-mail us at: [email protected]. Travel Information

PASSPORT

A valid passport is required for your trip. Be sure to check the expiration date. Your passport must be valid for six months after your date of exit from . In addition, we recommend your passport have at least two completely blank visa pages for every country you will be visiting. It is very important that the blank pages say “Visas” at the top. The last few pages of your passport, which say “Amendments and Endorsements,” and the final page of your passport, which may not have a page number, are not considered to be legitimate visa pages. The service of adding pages for visas was discontinued as of January 1, 2016. You can request a new passport through US Passport Services Office (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or use a visa service agency, which can take care of your passport renewal and expedite the process, if needed. We recommend Passport Visas Express (http://www.passportvisasexpress.com/?affId=2120). Be sure to allow sufficient time to acquire this before your trip.

It is a good idea to carry photocopies of your passport’s photo page and any acquired visa pages for your trip (if applicable) in case your passport is lost or as an additional piece of identification, as well as two extra passport photos.

VISAS

US citizens do not need a visa for countries visited on this trip. If you are a citizen of any country other than the US, check with a local consulate for entry requirements.

MONEY

The currency for Georgia is the Georgian lari (GEL). We suggest you bring money in US cash, which can be exchanged for local currency only at official exchange offices, or you can use an ATM in . Visa, MasterCard, and American Express are only accepted in larger cities and towns. Old or very worn dollar bills are often not accepted, even at banks. If you plan to use your credit cards, inform your credit card company before your departure that you will be using the card abroad.

TIPPING

Tipping is completely discretionary, but over the years, clients have asked us for tipping guidelines to reward outstanding service. A range of reference would be $90-110 USD per trip member for the Trip Leader and $75-100 USD to be shared by the crew, which can be given in either USD or GEL. The Trip Leader takes care of gratuities for luggage handling, waiters at restaurants, and local guides who are with the group for only a short time. SPECIAL DIETS

We will do our best to accommodate special dietary needs, however, please keep in mind that certain cultural differences or limitations due to logistics can make it extremely difficult and at times impossible to accommodate dietary restrictions. Please inform us well before your trip if you have a restricted diet. It is important to bring a flexible attitude and supplemental snacks.

COMMUNICATIONS

Telephone The international dialing code for Georgia is 995. Please contact your cell phone company for specific instructions for international use.

Email & Internet Access Internet access may be limited at the hotels and guesthouses used on this trip. Medical Information

The following recommendations should be used as a guideline only; consult your physician for medical advice. It is vital that you let Wilderness Travel know of any medical problems, allergies, or physical limitations you may have. Please fill out and return the personal medical questionnaire, and feel free to consult us if you have any questions about your ability to undertake this particular trip.

Wilderness Travel is not a medical facility and has no expertise or responsibility regarding what medications or inoculations you and your physician decide are necessary for your safe participation in the trip.

Traveler's health information is available from the Centers for Disease Control. (http://www.cdc.gov/travel/index.htm) Medical travel products are available from Travel Health Medicine (http://www.travmed.com) and from Magellan's Travel Supplies. (http://www.magellans.com)

INOCULATIONS

You should be up to date on routine vaccinations when traveling to any destination. No inoculations are currently required for entry into Georgia, but we recommend you discuss the following with your physician:

Hepatitis The vaccines HAVRIX and VAQTA (two injections, six to 18 months apart) give long-term protection against Hepatitis A and are worthwhile if you travel regularly to developing countries.

Tetanus Booster It is very easy to get a small cut. A booster is strongly recommended if you are due for one (effective for 10 years).

STAYING HEALTHY

You can reduce your risk of getting a cold on the trip by washing your hands often and not touching your face with unwashed hands. If you arrive on the trip with a cold or feel the symptoms of a cold, avoid close contact with others and move away from people before coughing or sneezing. The CDC recommends coughing or sneezing into a tissue or into the crook of your elbow or upper sleeve, not your hands. GETTING IN SHAPE

Your encounter with the mountains of Georgia will be a rewarding experience and we strongly urge you to “train up” for your trip. The trip is Level 4 and at times will be physically challenging with some ascents and descents. Occasionally we may have to ford a river by horseback. On some days, you can elect not to do the entire hike: you can either drive to our village destination and do a short hike in the area or hike part of the way toward the village.

You must make a special effort to get in good physical condition for the trip by hiking, running, swimming, bicycling, or engaging in other forms of aerobic exercise well beyond your normal routine. We recommend any aerobic activities that cause you to break a sweat for at least 20 minutes at least three times a week, beginning a couple of months before departure. Walking up and down flights of stairs is also an effective way to train for the steep ascents and descents. Weekend hikes that involve long sections of uphill and downhill walking are great for conditioning your legs. Helpful Information

PHOTOGRAPHY

For most people, a compact digital camera or even a cell phone with a fixed zoom lens work well, and newer point-and- shoots and phones can produce excellent quality pictures. For higher quality images, especially for printing, and the ability to use longer telephoto lenses for closer wildlife pictures, a digital SLR is well worthwhile, though heavier. Lenses of 200mm or 300mm, with image stabilization, allow you to hand-hold the camera with minimal camera shake. A polarizing filter is useful, especially to reduce reflection on water surfaces and to deepen the blue of the sky. Pack your equipment well and use plastic bags to protect it from dust or moisture. Bring wipes and a dust blower to keep your lenses clean. Most digital cameras and phones now have video options, and you may even want to consider bringing a GoPro. Always practice ahead of time with new equipment and bring your manual with you. You may want to consider insuring your equipment. Camera equipment is available for rent from Borrow Lenses(https://www.borrowlenses.com/discount/wildernesstravel) with a 10% discount offered to Wilderness Travel clients.

When taking pictures of people, be aware of cultural considerations. Heed your Trip Leader’s guidelines for what is appropriate, and always use gestures or simple phrases to ask permission. If people do not wish to be photographed, please honor their requests.

We find that our clients create wonderful images that really define the unique aspects of our adventures. We would love to make use of your images in our marketing materials and our photoblog, and request that you send us a small sample of your best images and a simple email giving us permission to use the photos. Please email your photos to [email protected]. We look forward to receiving them!

BEING A CONSIDERATE TRAVELER

Please show respect for the cultures we are visiting by observing local customs concerning appropriate dress, particularly in sacred places. Your Trip Leader is always available to answer any questions that you may have regarding this. If it is necessary to use a cell phone during the trip, please do so privately. Smoking is rarely an issue these days, but if you do smoke, please do so only away from the group. Packing List

THE ESSENTIALS

Passport One other picture ID, such as a driver's license Expense money

WT GEAR STORE

To help you prepare for your next WT adventure, we've put together a great collection of top brands including Patagonia, Outdoor Research, Eagle Creek, and more at our WT Gear Store (http://wildernesstravel.newheadings.com).

LUGGAGE

Having one duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase simplifies transportation of luggage during the trip. Please check with your international airline for specific baggage allowances. Duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase with a small padlock (optional—must be unlocked for travel) Daypack, large enough for a fleece jacket, rain gear, water bottle, camera, and other items you want on the trail. It should be a shoulder pack (not a fanny pack) with a supporting waist belt. Packs with a capacity of 1,450-2,000 cubic inches are recommended. Small roll-up duffel if you are an avid shopper (will be stored at the hotel in Tbilisi) NOTES ON CLOTHING

For Women Women are not allowed to enter churches unless they are wearing a skirt or dress. Bring a lightweight shawl or scarf as well (to cover head and shoulders if bare).

For Men Knee-length walking shorts are fine for men, but shorts shouldn’t be worn inside churches.

Fabrics An insulating base layer (top and bottom) beneath your hiking clothes will keep you warm and comfortable. Capilene, fleece, and other synthetic fabrics are excellent, as are lightweight wool insulating layers by Patagonia, Icebreakers, and SmartWool. Cotton is not a good insulator, especially as a first layer next to the skin. Once it gets wet from perspiration, it stays wet and keeps you cold. (Cotton is fine for city wear and touring.)

​Shell Clothing Shell clothing includes jackets and pants that protect from rain and wind. Gore-Tex and equivalent fabrics are waterproof and breathable, so they are the best choice. Shell clothing should be roomy enough to fit over other layers of clothing.

The temperatures in the Caucasus can vary. Trekking can be uncomfortable if you are ill-prepared. Even if you do not use each item listed, it’s better to be prepared.

CLOTHING

The clothing list below is provided as a guideline only; we encourage you to pack as lightly as possible. Gore-Tex rain/wind shell jacket with hood Gore-Tex rain/wind pants (preferably with leg zippers so that they can be taken off without removing your boots) Fleece sweater Hiking pants. Synthetic hiking pants are a practical choice. Jeans are not suitable for trekking because they are made of dense cotton and take a very long time to dry if they get wet Sturdy hiking shorts, knee-length Long-sleeved shirts. Quick-drying “travel” fabrics like nylon are ideal. T-shirts. Synthetics are best for the trek; cotton will get soggy with perspiration. Lightweight scarf or shawl for women (to cover head and shoulders if bare) Shade hat with a wide brim Fleece hat for warmth Fleece mittens or gloves Medium to heavyweight hiking boots designed for on- and off-trail hiking with multi-day hikes in mind Comfortable shoes for city wear and at the guesthouses Lightweight water shoes like Tevas or similar for stream crossings (to be carried in your daypack) Hiking socks. Thorlo hiking socks (moisture-wicking synthetic with padded toes and heels) are excellent, as are SmartWool. Bathing suit (for hotel pools and for bathhouse) Casual city/hotel attire (at least one skirt/dress for women) EQUIPMENT

Two sturdy reusable water bottles, 1 qt. capacity Sunglasses with cases. Personal toiletries Small, quick-drying washcloth or towel Headlamp or flashlight and extra batteries

PERSONAL FIRST AID SUPPLIES

Every trip member should bring a small kit for personal use. Your own experience will influence your choices. Sunscreen SPF 30 or higher and lip balm with sunscreen. We recommend mineral-based sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide because they do not contain harsh chemicals that are harmful to the environment. Brands such as Honest Company, Badger, and Alba Botanica are found in most sporting goods stores and drugstores. Aspirin, ibuprofen, or Tylenol for muscle pain or headaches, Tylenol PM for sleep Topical antibiotic (such as Neosporin) for cuts, bites, or sores Blister kit. Look for the long-lasting gel-type bandages that you can apply directly on blisters, such as Band-Aid Advanced Healing Bandages or Curad Gel Multi-Day Bandages. “Liquid band-aids,” such as New-Skin, are useful because they dry rapidly to form a tough protective cover over a blister. Anti-bacterial gel for hand washing on the trail Antihistamine such as Benadryl, cold remedy such as Sudafed Pepto-Bismol tablets for heartburn, diarrhea Imodium for diarrhea. If you wish to bring an antibiotic for diarrhea prophylaxis, please consult your physician. Prescription medications properly labeled, enough to last the entire length of the trip Spare eyeglasses or extra disposable contact lenses Insect repellent

OPTIONAL ITEMS

Hiking Poles. Hiking with a collapsible hiking pole, such as those by Leki and REI, helps to distribute your body weight, takes pressure off your knees, and improves your balance. Some hikers like using one pole and others hike with two poles. Lightweight down jacket Converter/plug adapter for appliance use in hotels. Georgia has 220-volt current; plugs have two round pins. Travel umbrella for sun and rain protection Reading/writing material Binoculars (small, lightweight) Money belt or neck pouch. Washcloth, if you like to use one (most European hotels do not provide them) Reading List

ESSENTIAL READING

The Caucasus, An Introduction The Georgian Feast Thomas De Waal Darra Goldstein 2010, 288 PAGES 2013, 229 PAGES A timely, readable portrait of the Caucasus by an Historian and food expert Goldstein explores the food, experienced journalist working in the region. With traditions and geography of Georgia, as beautiful as it is historical background, insight into energy production and bountiful, in this savory cultural history. With illustrations an analysis of struggles for independence. by delightful 19th-century primitivist Niko Pisosmani.

Lonely Planet Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan Caucasus: Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan Map John Noble Freytag & Berndt 2012, 296 PAGES 2011 An excellent practical guide featuring a good overview of A travel map of the Caucasus at a scale 1:1,000,000. culture, history and nature, 16 pages of color photos, 40 maps and a language guide.

Stories I Stole, A Journey to Georgia Wendell Steavenson 2004, 277 PAGES Witty, engaging and attuned to the complexities of history and ethnicity, Steavenson, a veteran journalist, spins lyrical tales of the former Soviet Republic of Georgia as it crumbles around her in the late 1990s.

ALSO RECOMMENDED

Black Sea Georgia, In the Mountains of Poetry Neal Ascherson Peter Nasmyth 1996, 306 PAGES 2006, 306 PAGES In this skillful regional portrait, Ascherson weaves his A cultural portrait of the Republic of Georgia by a British own travels and impressions with a fascinating account of journalist who has traveled extensively in the region. In its the Black Sea's history. From ancient mythology to third edition, it's the best book on post-Soviet Georgia, modern politics, he admirably never loses sight of the sea with 170 black-and-white photographs and illustrations itself. The Ghost of Freedom, A Modern History of the Black Dog of Fate, A Memoir Caucasus Peter Balakian Charles King 2009, 304 PAGES 2009, 336 PAGES This powerful memoir combines Balakian's coming-of-age A professor at Georgetown, King reveals the imperial as an Armenian-American in New Jersey with his growing ambitions, larger-than-life personalities and romance of realization of the horrors suffered by his family in the this strategic region. Armenian genocide of 1915 in Ottoman Turkey.

Caucasus, A Journey to the Land between Christianity Passage to Ararat and Islam Clark Blaise Nicholas Griffin 2006, 293 PAGES 2004, 256 PAGES Arlen's National Book Award-winning memoir of his An engaging account of travels in the Caucasus in the father and the rediscovery of his Armenian heritage. He footsteps of Imam Shamil, a Muslim who resisted the interweaves stories of travel and family with an account of Russians in the 19th century. The book is a portrait of the the troubled history of the country. people, land and issues in the region.

The Orientalist, Solving the Mystery of a Strange and Ali and Nino, A Love Story Dangerous Life 2013, 240 PAGES 2006, 286 PAGES The deeply sentimental tale, set in in the years before A storyteller of the first order, Reiss weaves a wonderful WWI, of an Azerbaijani Muslim boy in love with a tapestry of information about the cultures and religions in Georgian Christian girl, originally published in 1937. the Caucasus with this wonderful tale of the remarkable life of Lev Nussimbaum -- a fabulist, interpreter of cultures, novelist and rogue who reinvented himself as Kurban Said.

Gentlemen of the Road Culture Smart! Georgia Michael Chabon Natia Abramia 2008, 224 PAGES 2012, 168 PAGES This medieval adventure by Pulitzer Prize-winner Chabon Natia Abramia guides you through the past and present- is set in the Caucasus Mountains, where two thieves for day realities of her motherland, explaining what makes hire are responsible for the fate of the empire of the people tick, how they live and feel and how to get along Khazars. with them.

Tales of Belkin and Other Prose Writings Edge of Empires, A History of Georgia Aleksandr Sergeevich Pushkin Donald Rayfield 1998, 198 PAGES 2012, 479 PAGES This sampling of Pushkin's short stories includes his A wide-ranging examination of this small but colorful autobiographical "A Journey to Arzrum," the tale of country, its dramatic state building and its tragic political travels from Moscow across the Caucasus and Georgia to mistakes. Donald Rayfield is a professor at the University Turkey during the war of 1829. of London who has published extensively on politics, history and literature. Russia's Steppe Frontier, The Making of a Colonial Among the Russians Empire, 1500-1800 Colin Thubron Michael Khodarkovsky 2001, 224 PAGES 2005, 290 PAGES The marvelous account of a 10,000-mile journey by car In this sweeping, scholarly history Khodarovsky traces from St. Petersburg and the Baltic States south to Georgia Russian imperial adventures in the Caucasus from the and Armenia in 1981. A gifted writer and intrepid traveler, decline of the Mongols to the end of the 18th century. Thubron grapples with the complexities of Russian identity in this lyrical book.

Stalin: New Biography of a Dictator A Spy by Nature Oleg V. Khlevniuk Charles Cumming 2015, 408 PAGES 2008, 355 PAGES An authoritative, illuminating biography of Georgian Josef Introducing the London School of Economics graduate Stalin, who ruled the Soviet Union from 1929 until his and reluctant British spy Alec Milius. When he lands a death in 1953 and caused the death and imprisonment of prime job for a British oil company, Alec finds himself more than a million Soviet citizens per year. trapped in a world of secrets and lies that could cost him his life.

Hadji Murad Aylmer Maude 2003, 192 PAGES A short novel set in the 19th-century Caucasus, concerning -- in part -- conflicts between the occupying Russians and Muslim groups in the region.

Revised: January 22, 2019