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The Himalayan Journal_vol.70_2015__p151-164 13 Lo lab The Hidden Himalayan Valley Brigadier Ashok Abbey In the north Indian State of Jammu and Kashmir, across the long serrated ridge line of the Pir Panjal range lies a valley of exquisite beauty. This irregular oblong shaped vast valley is enclosed by a rim of high snow clad mountain ranges, entwined with dense forests, turquoise colored lakes and meandering rivers. This is the vale of Kashmir. In the northwestern extremity of the vale, lies tucked in another small valley of equally enticing beauty. Enclosed by a ring of lofty mountains and basking in sylvan splendor in the long shadow of the Himalaya, this is the Lo lab valley. Beset like an emerald studded in a string of pearls, it is truly a paradise within the paradise! Lolab valley or as the locals call it, Wadi-e-Lolab, lies in the frontier district ofKupwara, in North Kashmir. It is one ofthe eight geographical divisions and one of the five assembly constituencies of Kupwara District. It is located east of Kupwara town, which is 90 km up north from Srinagar. Kupwara District is spread over an area of 23 79 square km, almost 65% of which is forested. The district which has an average elevation of 5300 m, has within its folds numerous, beautiful valleys, principal among they being Lolab. The Gazetteer ofKashmir' describes the Lolab valley thus. A pargana comprising a beautiful and very fertile valley, situated on the north-east side of Kashmir: the tehsil station is at Lalpur. The valley is oval in shape, and its surface is elevated and undulating: it stretches about 15 miles north­ west and south-east, varying in breadth from a few hundred yards to about 3 miles. It is traversed by a considerable stream Luke calledSmithwick the Lahwal, // and Himalaya is intersected inAlpine all directions Guides by its Library numerous tributaries, which flow down from the surrounding hills, which are clothed by dense forests of deodar. 1 A Gazetteer ofKashmir by Charles Ellison Bates. The Himalayan Journal_vol.70_2015__p151-164 152 THE HIDDEN HIMALAYAN VALLEY As you drive into Lolab along the Lo/ab Kol, the valley opens up at Khumrial. There is a cool mountain breeze and the scent of dense pine along the stunning landscape, interspersed with well spread Kashmiri villages. As the men and women folks go around their daily chores, the youngsters loose no opportunity to play cricket, with highly improvised pitches, bats and balls. 2 Sir Francis Younghusband , who visited Lolab in I 887 described the valley thus: The Lolab is the western end of the vale of Kashmir, and is remarkable rather for the homely picturesqueness ofits woodland and village beauty than for the grandeur of its scenery. The hill-sides are entirely clothed with thick forests of deodar and pine. In the valley bottom are beautiful stretches of soft green turf. Dotted over it are villages buried in park­ like clumps of walnut, apple, and pear trees; and numerous streams ripple through on every side. For forest and village scenery it is nowhere excelled. It is like a series of English woodland glades, with the additional beauty of snowy peaks in the background. It is strongly believed that Lolab valley was once a lake, which formed part of a bigger lake, called Satisar or Satisaras, the waters of which covered the present Kashmir valley. Satisar was the ·Lake of Sati' (Durga or the consort of Lord Shiva). Early European travellers noticed that •Kashmir was in comparatively late geological times, wholly or in part occupied by a vast lake'.3 Lacustrine deposits in the valley were confirmed by F. Drew and Colonel Godwin Austin. Vigne too, observed raised calcareous deposits. In all probability, these were raised to their present position by upheaval of volcanic masses from the ocean floor and below. Even today, the general aspect and lay of the land in Lo lab, is akin to a basin enclosed by high mountains. Presently there are thirteen small lakes in Lolab, having an average Luke Smithwickdepth of three to// four Himalaya feet. Covered Alpine with weeds, Guides they afford Library great shelter to the migratory water fowl which breeds here. Lo lab is drained by the the Lolab Kol, which is formed after the confluence of Manchhar 2 Kashmir by Francis Younghusband. 3 The Ancient Geography ofKashmir by M.A. Stein. The Himalayan Journal_vol.70_2015__p151-164 BRIGADIER ASHOK ABBEY 153 nadi, Khumarial and other nars, which carry water from the perennial high mountain streams. Lolab Kol ultimately flows into the Pohru river at Kupwara. Lolab valley is 20 km long and five km wide and lies from northwest to southeast. The valley has three principal valleys namely Kalaroos or Kalaruch, North and South Lolab. There is an interesting story about the mythical Raja Lov, the founder ofLolab.4 It is said that after the destruction of Pandvas Sindmat Nagar (Vulur) and death of Sunder Sain, there remained disturbances for some period. After that the learned people selected a man, named Lov for handling the throne. This man as per Stein, was from the dynasty of Rajas of Malwa and had migrated to Kashmir. The Pandav Rajas respected him and with their assistance he had become the Jagirdar of Lo lab area. He organized a stong military force to defeat his enemies. He constructed 84 lac grand buildings to establish the city of Lalore (Lo lab). He was a brave and undaunted Raja, free from vices. After his death, his son Kush occupied the throne. He was also a brave leader. The name of Lolab in Sanskrit books is 'Lolo'. Aini Akbari writes it as 'Lolaha'. Lok Prakash names it 'Laloke' and Sahib Ram 'Lolo'. 5 Vigne , the British explorer who travelled in Lolab in 1835 observed There is in the middle a large flat and circular space, a valley within the valley, the snuggest and most retired looking region imaginable. This part of Lolab is about 5 and a half miles in diameter, and a morass, that appears to have been formerly a lake occupies the centre: the sides are verdant, and more or less covered with jungle. He further records Luke I Smithwicknoticed a curious //fact Himalaya connected with Alpinethe natural Guideshistory of Library this part of the country, which would go far to prove that this singular punch-bowl is the most sheltered district in Kashmir. 4 Kupwara, The Crown ofKashmir (2 Volumes) by A.B. Gani Baig. s Travels in Kahsmir by G.T. Vigne and A Gazetteer of Kashmir by Charles Ellison Bates. The Himalayan Journal_vol.70_2015__p151-164 154 THE HIDDEN HIMALAYAN VALLEY As evening drew nigh it was astonishing to observe the number of birds of the corvus genus who came to pass the night on its plain; ravens, crown and jackdaws were seen in almost every direction, excepting the north, whither they do not repair, the country being comparatively barren. They appeared in the air above the mountain tops, all moving towards Lolab as a centre, and then suddenly, as they came in sight of their resting place, darted downwards with surprising velocity. crossing each other in their zigzag, irregular flight, as if they had been influenced by terror or the fury of a driving hurricane. As they neared the ground, they gradually slackened their speed, circled over its surface for a moment, and then alighted in such countless numbers, that the ground in some places was literally blackened with them. The valley ofLolab is hemmed by a ring of high mountains. While to the west, the valley is enclosed by the Menganwar and Bodbal ridge line, to the northwest lies Nawan Bal with the Zamindar Khan Gali, which gives accesses to Machhal. To the south and southeast is the Harwan Bal with Kowut, which separates Lolab from Sopore. To the east lies Bandipura and to the southeast lies the Wular lake or Mahapadmsar, the largest fresh water lake in Asia. To the north, northwest of Lolab lies the mighty Shamshabari range. The Gazetteer ofKashmi~ records the range as under. SHAMSHABARI - Survey Station - Lat. 34° 21 '. Long. 73° 59'. Elev. 14, 351 feet. The name of the lofty range of rocky mountains forming the boundary. of the Kamao valley on its east side, between the Nattishannar and Tutmari Gailis. The Shamshabari stream drains the northern portion of the valley, and unites with the Kazi Nag below the village of Chamkot. The little known Shamshabari is the northern most mountain range of Kashmir, spanning the entire north of the valley, like a crown capping Luke Smithwickthe head. It is an // offshoot Himalaya of the Great Alpine Himalayan Guides Range, which Library breaks off from the east of Kaobal Gali, near Zoji La. Moving westwards, the Shamshabari forms the western and the northern boundary of Kashmir. Shamshabari range runs to the north ofLolab, towering above this small 6 A Gazel/eer ofKashmir by Charles Ellison Bates. The Himalayan Journal_vol.70_2015__p151-164 BRIGADIER ASHOK ABBEY 155 valley. This snow clad range which is approximately 220 km long, with a varying elevation between 3350 to 4400 m feet, finally terminates in the west at Kalapahar. The Shamshabari range directly impacts the life of the people living in Lolab. The older generation of Kashmiris living in the shadow of the Shamshabari believes that blind and deaf fairies who live high on the mountain, kill people in winter. The range receives considerable rainfall in its lower reaches in the summer and the monsoon months and heavy snowfall in winters. Shamshabari also has a number of Galis cutting across its spine in north-south and east-west directions.

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