WARNACO TAPS INTIMATE APPAREL TEAM/3 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • November 2, 2004 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles The Fashion Vote NEW YORK — It’s not 1954, it’s 2004. So why do we think that First Ladies need to dress only in namby- pamby jewel-colored suits? True, we have elected our First Lady’s husband President, and we haven’t voted for her, but that doesn’t mean that the woman in question can’t wear something more exciting. So WWD approached some New York designers and asked them to design new looks for both potential First Ladies. Here, Oscar de la Renta, who has actually dressed both women (along with Hillary Clinton), offers an evening suit for Teresa Heinz Kerry and a gown for Laura Bush. For more designers’ ideas, see pages 4 and 5. 2 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY McCartney Trims U.K. Loss Ready-to-Wear/Textiles GENERAL By Samantha Conti stantial part of the costs — most of which are administrative — Warnaco named two key executive posts in its intimate apparel unit and LONDON — Stella McCartney and generates a small part of the 3 has embarked on a line of high-tech performance underwear. Ltd., the U.K. company that over- revenue,” James McArthur, exec- FASHION: What might the next White House fashion mood be? Designers sees the designer’s trademarks, utive vice president of Gucci 4 sketch something fun for both potential first ladies. licenses and London store, post- Group, said in an interview. ed a loss of 3.9 million pounds, or McArthur, who said the bulk EYE: Peter and Jacqui Getty hosted 400 frightful guests for a Halloween bash $7 million, in the year ended Jan. of the McCartney business comes 7 at their Hollywood home…Cartier dazzles at Houston’s Museum of Fine Arts. 31. This compares with a loss of from wholesale sales, noted the RTW: Shrunken jackets and special occasion dresses have been big hits at 4.5 million pounds, or $8.1 mil- bigger picture was far brighter. 8 retail this fall, according to a spot check of retailers. lion, in the previous year. He said he expects the company Sales in the period rose over to reach “solid profitability” TEXTILES: South Korean textile manufacturers are turning to fabrics with five times to 2.5 million pounds, within the next three years. 9 special properties in order to compete in the post-quota world. or $4.5 million, from 434,611 “The 2.5 million-pound turn- Executives from Sean “P. Diddy” Combs to Roger Milliken have helped pounds, or $782,300. The figures over for Stella McCartney Ltd., as 12 produce a groundswell of new voters and predictions of a big turnout today. do not include sales from whole- shown in these accounts, is not sale accounts, or flagships in New indicative of the scale, resonance Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 Yo rk and Los Angeles. Currency Stella or momentum of the brand on a conversions were made at the McCartney consolidated worldwide basis,” To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is current exchange rate. he added. [email protected], using the individual’s name. “The directly operated stores claim of Stella’s recent collection McArthur said the company WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 as well as the wholesale and li- by buyers and the world’s fash- was on track to achieve total rev- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 188, NO. 94. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional censed businesses are perform- ion press,” said Robert Polet, enues in excess of 30 million issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three ing in line or better than our ex- chief executive of Gucci Group. euros, or $38.1 million, for the fis- additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 pectations and we are further “The U.K. is just one part of cal year ending Jan. 31, 2005. That West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, encouraged with the critical ac- the puzzle and it absorbs a sub- would represent a 50 percent in- Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior crease in overall sales last year, Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- which were 20 million euros, or President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration $25.4 million, in the year ended No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. Jan. 31, 2004. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. “The overall news is actually FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is great. The business has gone required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new from zero to 30 million euros in subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production revenue in two and a half years. correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild It has developed into a substan- magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully tial business in a short period of screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive time. And we manage it in a very these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED STRETCH JERSEY disciplined way. MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND All of the Stella McCartney Ltd. TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART figures will be deposited with WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Companies House, the central TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE NY: 212-868-4188 LA: 213-627-9055 www.britanniamills.net ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. registry for U.K. businesses, today. Specify TAC on your Tech Packs In Brief ● DEAL COMPLETE: Christopher & Banks Corp. said Monday after the stock market closed that it has completed the acquisition of 21 Acorn stores from Gilmore Brothers Inc. for $7 million in cash. The & see the Savings! Acorn stores, located in nine states, sell women’s apparel, jewelry and accessories under private and branded labels. “Acorn pro- vides us a differentiated yet complementary retail concept, which will enhance our strategic growth plans by allowing us to reach a more upscale customer demographic,” said Bill Prange, chief ex- ecutive officer of Christopher & Banks, in a statement. The compa- ny first said it signed a definitive agreement to acquire Acorn on Sept. 28. At that time, management anticipated the acquisition would add $3.5 million in revenues in the fourth quarter and be di- lutive to fourth-quarter earnings by 1 cent a share. Minneapolis- based Christopher & Banks currently operates 463 Christopher & Banks and 150 C.J. Banks women’s specialty stores.

● THREADGILL JOINS TROPICAL: Ronald Threadgill has joined Tropical Sportswear International as senior vice president of global logistics, with responsibility for planning, purchasing and sourcing. He takes over many of the duties previously handled by Frank Maccarrone, who left Tropical as executive vice president and chief operating officer last month. Threadgill comes to Tropical from Levi Strauss & Co., where his last post was direc- tor of sourcing for the launch of Levi Strauss Signature and di- rector of manufacturing operations for Levi’s operations in the Western Hemisphere.

● WELLMAN’S POLY PRICING: Wellman Inc. plans to raise by 6 cents the price of a pound of its polyester staple fiber products — used in apparel, home furnishings and other goods — by Jan. 2. The rise will come in two waves, with a 3 cent price bump applied to Nov. 28 shipments and another 3 cent upswing for the petrole- um-based fiber kicking in for the new year. “Polyester raw materi- al costs continue to rise on a monthly basis, setting new record highs,” Joe Tucker, vice president of the fibers and recycled prod- ucts group, said in a statement. “The industry has also experi- enced sharp increases in energy costs. These two increases are necessary to offset these raw material and energy cost increases.”

● GADZOOKS GETS LOAN: Bankrupt teen-girl retailer Gadzooks has secured a $5 million Tranche B term loan from Gryphon Master Fund LP, following approval from a Texas U.S. bankruptcy court. The loan will provide “seasonal borrowing capacity” for Production Locations: the company’s bid to dig out from bankruptcy by the first half of Bangladesh, Cambodia, Central America, China, 2005, the retailer said in a statement. The company also said plans for reorganization had been approved by its committee of Dubai, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Israel, Korea, Mexico, unsecured creditors, the committee of equity holders and Gryphon. According to the company, the plan for reorganization Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Taiwan, Thailand, USA, Vietnam will be filed with the court by Saturday. WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2004 3 WWW.WWD.COM

G+J BACK IN THE KITCHEN: Speculation might be Warnaco Names Intimate Execs rampant about more MEMO PAD disposals, but three By Karyn Monget months after shuttering its new magazines unit, Gruner + Jahr is back in the development NEW YORK — The Warnaco Group business. Former YM editor in chief Linda Fears is doing Inc. made two high-level executive appointments Monday in an effort preliminary work on a new women’s service title aimed at to shore up its $573 million inti- readers ages 25 to 40, a company spokeswoman confirmed. mate apparel division — and While the spokeswoman declined to elaborate, further proof turned again to Liz Claiborne for that no good idea goes unplundered again and again and again one of them. came from a G+J source who said the new title is likely to be a Martha Olson, 49, has been ap- low-priced, newsstand-driven magazine in the vein of all those pointed president of the newly formed core brands unit, and former Bauer titles, Time Inc.’s All You and Hachette’s For Me, Liz Claiborne executive Barbara (perhaps something involving a third-person pronoun?). Lipton, 47, has been named vice Working with Fears on the project is Karmen Lizzul, whose president and general manager of brief stint as YM’s creative director ended last month when the new fashion brands businesses. the title was sold to Condé Nast (like WWD, part of Advance Olson will oversee the branded Publications Inc.) and shut down. Meanwhile, ex-YM Olga, Warner’s and Body Nancy Ganz bra and shapewear business- publisher Joan Sheridan LaBarge, who also stayed on after es, and Lipton will head the JLo the sale, will be joining the rest of her former staff in Lingerie by Jennifer Lopez, Lejaby combing the want ads. LaBarge, who also served as the and newly launched Lejaby Rose publisher of Rosie, was let go last week. — Jeff Bercovici foundations, as well as the Fastskin by Speedo underwear businesses. YOUNG BLOOD: It seems Toby Young just can’t move on from Both Olson and Lipton report to “How to Lose Friends and Alienate People.” Young’s memoir Helen McCluskey, 49, group presi- PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY of his days in the Nineties at Vanity Fair (like WWD, part of dent of Warnaco’s intimate appar- Martha Olson, Helen McCluskey and Barbara Lipton. el businesses. McCluskey joined Advance Publications Inc.) is still touted as a possible Warnaco in June after serving for ments] is Helen’s input on Secret Casual Sleepwear collec- movie, was a stage production in London 18 months ago three years as president of the Warnaco’s intimate apparel busi- tion. She reports to Wendi and has now been revived at London’s Arts Theatre — this Special Markets Group of Liz ness. We are delighted in her selec- Goldman, executive vice president time starring Young. And, just like the book, the second time Claiborne Inc. as well as stints at tions, and we are confident we’ll of design. A successor has not round for the play has received decidedly mixed reviews. Playtex Apparel and Sara Lee. see business becoming more posi- been named at Warnaco. The appointment of Lipton tive and more profitable,” said In other developments, Warnaco This past weekend, Lyn Gardner of The Guardian, noting that marks the second time in less than Joseph R. Gromek, Warnaco’s pres- plans to embark on an ambitious Young is a theater critic at The Spectator, scathed, “You a year that Warnaco has poached ident and chief executive officer. new line of business by incorporat- would think he might have developed some respect for the Liz Claiborne’s inner circle of ex- Intimates is one of the key ap- ing the high-tech performance ap- job that actors do. Clearly not. But then, neither does he ecutives. Lipton, a 20-year retail parel categories Gromek is keen on plications of the Fastskin FSII appear to have picked up any tips on acting along the way.” veteran and former vice president improving. Sales in the intimate swimwear by Speedo into a line of Reached by phone on Monday, Young responded, “I and divisional merchandise man- apparel division fell to $573 million underwear for men and women. ager of intimate apparel, hosiery last year from $614 million in 2002. Olympic gold medal champion expected to be universally panned. [Theater critics] are a and fashion jewelry at Saks Fifth Among the initiatives the company Michael Phelps, who signed an en- mean-spirited group, and of course they’re going to object if Avenue, joined the Claiborne firm has recently undertaken are dorsement contract with Speedo one of their own tries to get up on stage.” He added, “I was last February as vice president launching Lejaby Rose, a secondary last year, is being considered as very pleasantly surprised by the review in The [Evening] and general merchandise manager foundations label with a young, the model for Warnaco’s multimil- Standard,” which called the rise-and-fall story “a gleaming of Liz Claiborne Modern feminine look, and the licensed JLo lion dollar marketing and advertis- statuette of the human spirit.” The Spectator publishes its Accessories, which includes the Lingerie by Jennifer Lopez collec- ing campaign for the state-of-the- critique on Thursday, but of course Young won’t be writing that Juicy Couture, Ellen Tracy and tion of updated, girly lingerie. art underwear collection, said Sigrid Olsen brands. She was pro- McCluskey has been challenged McCluskey. The Fastskin by review — Lloyd Evans will get the byline. “He told me on press moted to vice president and gener- with the repositioning of Warner’s Speedo underwear will be target- night he liked the show,” said Young, who is expecting a al manager of Claiborne’s Special two mature brands, Olga and ed to major department stores as favorable review from his colleague. If “How To Lose…” can Markets Accessories division in Warner’s, which in fiscal 2003 gen- well as sporting goods outlets na- eke out 16 weeks in London’s West End, the budding thespian October. A successor has not been erated $180 million in combined tionwide, and could be cross-mar- plans to bring the act to off-Broadway next fall. — Sara James named, said a spokeswoman at the wholesale revenues, down from keted with the Fastskin FSII by Claiborne company. $250 million the prior year Speedo swimwear, which is part of Olson, whose background in- These two appointments follow Warnaco’s Swimwear Division. HIRE AWAY: Lock up your editorial staffs: David Zinczenko is cludes marketing well-known con- the departure of Jeanette Cantone “We are looking to build on the on the prowl. The Men’s Health editor has vowed to double in sumer packaged brands such as from Warnaco, where she was vice technology and performance of size the editorial staff of Best Life, the new lifestyle magazine Cheerios and Betty Crocker, had for- president of merchandising for the Speedo swimwear and translate for older guys, by the end of the year, taking it from seven to merly worked with McCluskey at JLo Lingerie by Jennifer Lopez that to men’s and women’s under- 14. He made a start of it this week, poaching Men’s Journal’s Sara Lee Corp., when Olson joined and Olga brands for the past year. wear,” said McCluskey. She said associate fashion editor Heather Shimokawa to be fashion the Playtex Apparel division in 1992, On Monday, Cantone was named the new underwear would focus and later the licensed Ralph Lauren senior vice president of Lingerie on three areas: High performance, editor. Best Life’s fashion director John Mather was previously Intimates at Sara Lee, which was Projects for Limited Design active athlete and active-inspired Shimokawa’s boss at Men’s Journal. Mather quit in February discontinued in late 2003. Olson was Services, a unit of Limited Brands. lifestyle items in “exciting fab- when it became clear that new editor Michael Caruso planned most recently a division manager of In her new post, Cantone will man- rics.” The Fastskin men’s line will to devote fewer pages to fashion and limit coverage to casual Edison Schools, a private company age the design, merchandising and be be shipped to stores in late May, sportswear. As for Best Life, Rodale recently said it would that manages public schools. manufacturing of lingerie lines and the women’s underwear will increase the new title’s rate base from 200,000 to 300,000 “This [the executive appoint- such as Pink and the Victoria’s be launched next fall. at the start of 2005. Publisher Mary Murcko said the eventual target is 500,000. She added that Best Life is looking to expand its ad sales and marketing staff, as well. Equinox Looks to Leverage Choo So lock up your reps, too. — J.B. THE STONE ALSO RISES: LONDON — Equinox Luxury Holdings, which owns Regarding market rumors that Burberry was in- “Catwoman” appears to have been a 51 percent stake in the London-based Jimmy terested in purchasing all or part of Jimmy Choo, a Choo, is exploring strategic options for the luxury Burberry spokesman said: “This is pure specula- just a scratch in Sharon Stone’s footwear brand that could include a possible sale, tion, and it is not Burberry’s policy to comment on career. After landing roles in an initial public offering or a refinancing. speculation.” upcoming projects with Jim The company said in a statement Monday it has Bensoussan also declined to comment on the Jarmusch and Nick Cassavetes, named NM Rothschild to investigate options after rumor. Meanwhile, well-placed industry sources Stone now has a book deal with several investors approached Jimmy Choo earlier said Burberry is committed to organic growth and Assouline. The fashionable French this year about acquiring the business. no talks have taken place between the companies. “We received unsolicited approaches this summer, Sources said the company could be valued at publishing house has become the and gave the mandate to NM Rothschild. But we’re at more than $180 million, or 100 million pounds. Sales go-to for New York socialites the very, very early stages, so there is no timetable as in the 2004 fiscal year are expected to reach $72 mil- seeking ink-stained legitimacy in such,” said Robert Bensoussan, a shareholder in lion, or 40 million pounds. recent years, publishing Kelly Equinox and chief executive of Jimmy Choo. Equinox is the fashion investment arm of Killoren-Bensimon, Brooke de Sharon Bensoussan added the timing was right to start Phoenix Equity Partners, a London-based private Ocampo, Rena Kirdar Sindi, Bettina Stone looking at options for the business. equity fund manager that focuses on midmarket Zilkha and Anh Duong. Stone’s book “It’s been about three years since Equinox made the U.K. businesses. investment, so it’s not unusual to be looking at options. The remaining 49 percent of Jimmy Choo is in of photographs and essays, a collaboration with her friend, We have exciting plans for the future development of the hands of Tamara Mellon and her family. Mellon photographer Mimi Craven, is scheduled to reach the business, and [retained] Rothschild to assist us in is the president of Jimmy Choo. bookstores in April. Proceeds will benefit the American reviewing how best to achieve these ambitions.” — Samantha Conti Foundation for AIDS Research. — S.J. 4 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2004 The Fashion Vote NEW YORK — The election may be a serious business, but fashion doesn’t have to be. So we asked some designers to sketch something fun for both potential First Ladies. A couple of the more courageous got outrageous — but, hey, this is a democracy.

Michael Kors

Zac Posen

Donna Karan

Diane von Furstenberg WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2004 5 WWW.WWD.COM

Betsey Johnson

Narciso Rodriguez

Vera Wang Diane von Furstenberg for Heinz Kerry and Bush. 6 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM

Society for Rational Dress Closing Belles Corinne Grassini mixed hard and soft at Society for Rational Dress…Eduardo Lucero glammed it up…and Grey Ant’s Grant Krajecki worked “Nine to Five.”

Society for Rational Dress: Designer Corinne Grassini showed her Grey Ant tight, two-year-old collection without any of the overreaching, pompous tricks that often plague young designers who aspire to appear edgy and avant-garde these days. This, of course, didn’t mean that Grassini stayed on the straight and narrow. For spring, she continued her love of juxtaposing the softness of natural cotton fabrics with coarse brown leather belts and harness-like straps, as in the goddess-like short dress shirt that was held up across the chest and over one shoulder with a wide leather strap and brass hardware. Her lineup also offered plenty of pleated shorts and jackets cut from cotton splotched with faded pink, as well as a great black short jumpsuit, all paired with either her strappy suede moccasin-like boots or flat Greek sandals. There was one misstep when the designer tried to do too much with a collared shirt with a cutout waist that suggested a school project, but this was soon forgotten when the rest of her strong looks paraded out.

Eduardo Lucero: Eduardo Lucero’s private clientele — particularly those who fly in from points south of the border to visit his Beverly Boulevard atelier — go to him for to-the-hilt glamour that flatters their proud curves. So, for los spring, he offered plenty of such gorgeous options, from the teal and cocoa angeles tie-dyed silk gown to the embroidered lace dress that would look terrific on any Hollywood It Girl. Lucero also jumped on the trend for jersey looks with roughly slashed hems, which was maddening since the designer is known for his use of beautiful fabrics and good tailoring. Altogether, in fact, he tried to do too much with this collection by showing a multitude of themes, from the long, crocheted dresses to the Thirties-era gowns, and while most of his ideas were great, the broad range was often distracting. A strong edit could do him and his business a world of good.

Grey Ant: Goblins, ghosts and dancing queens filled the crowd for Grey Ant’s spring show on the eve of Halloween, but, thankfully, such costumes weren’t seen on the runway. Instead, inspired by the film “Nine to Five,” designer Grant Krajecki sent out a fresh and modern take on early Eighties silhouettes such as his corset-topped Debbie Harry-style jumpsuits and sweet yet sexy ruffle-edged dresses. With this theme, Krajecki pulled off what many Los Angeles designers often attempt but fail to do — create retro shapes without overly deconstructing the look. The designer, who bravely made his collection almost entirely out of cotton chintz, an unforgiving Eduardo material, showed off his tailoring skills with his crisp sunshine-yellow jumpsuit and the black Lucero flutter-sleeve mini dress. The skintight, plunging V-neck dresses, however, didn’t quite work. Cali’s Cornucopia

LOS ANGELES — In the city that is home to Hollywood’s pantheon of actors and actresses, a fashion girl is free to be anyone who suits her fancy. Her options this season: the East Coast Brahmin; a Far Eastern mystic; an Eighties throwback and, as always popular in these beachy parts, the chic bohemian. L.A.’s girl about town, Yohanna Logan, sent out an outstanding collection for Shawn, mixing Nantucket prep with military chic. Pink seersucker Bermuda shorts Rock & Bat’s looked less Waspy and more witty when paired with an army jacket turned hoodie. Daughter MartinMartin Elsewhere, the bohemian bad girl got her moment in the sun at Marc Bohbot’s True Shawn Da-Nang Oligo Tissew Republic Meaning. Who else would throw a tailored metallic leather blazer over a gauzy and Beckham delivered was more an experiment in attention-grabbing fodder white dress or a tan brocade vest over sexy cuffed shorts? The collection was clean than an actual premium denim collection. To the point, the jeans were low- and well-styled, except for splashes of orange satin, tied as obis that distracted from waisted and skirts resembled belts. and often overpowered a muted palette of sage, champagne and cream. Janett Kim’s Bat’s Daughter is clearly meant for the recent college grad who Da-Nang’s Estelle Dahan rather nicely combined a military influence with a needs a nice dress or suave suit for her first job interview. Thus the Forties- tropical edge, creating her slouchy cropped cargos and beachy bermuda shorts, inspired tan houndstooth culottes and shrunken jackets. At Naqada, Octavio Carlin slung with great distressed belts by local designer Beth Frank. She paired them did more of the ill-fitting gowns from past seasons, though a black-and-white with embellished camisoles, draped sundresses and embroidered jackets that striped number worked this time. Those aside, however, the rest of the seaside-y were thrown together just right. looks — sailor striped tops, white walking shorts and an oceanic color palette — Meanwhile, when a man has a team of spiritual advisers — Paul Hardy has four, clicked, especially the chain belts with copper lobsters and fish charms. according to his liner notes — it begs the question, “How much advice is too Doing a 180 in design terms, Rojas’ Freddie Rojas and Hurley’s Adriana Moreno much?” It seemed that all that direction left him a little unfocused. Organically ripped a page right from the book of totally Eighties history. Rojas took stock of the beautiful at times, the clothes wandered from white jersey tops under sequin decade’s tackier elements — stretch cotton tank micromini dresses, sequined boleros to tulle dresses with heavy-handed rose appliqués. There is no doubt that fanny packs, pastel striped Lurex leggings and reworked polos. At Hurley’s show, Hardy has talent, but next season, he should cut out the middleman and consult held at the Falcon nightclub, a string of bubbly blonde models sported white his own taste for guidance. denim minis and hot pink-striped tanks. But then the Eighties flashback gave way Oligo Tissew designer Christopher Enuke makes a great pair of jeans, this time to fun and flirty swimwear, proving that, here, skin is always in. sending stitched orange tux stripes down the legs. He also tossed in a few light and Eric Martin and Diane Moss-Martin never strayed from their m.o. — cutout flirty crocheted dresses. But the denim thunder was stolen by Rock & Republic, blouses and T-shirts, raw-edged skirts and slouchy trousers — at MartinMartin. But and U.K. tabloid fixture Victoria Beckham’s collaboration with designer Michael done in bold colors such as turquoise, fuchsia and red, they felt new. Coupled with Ball. Held in a drafty sound stage in Culver City, it was a big night for the relatively grandpa cashmere cardigans and pleated and crinkled silk skirts, this wasn’t a bad small company, with Eve and Paris Hilton sitting in the front row. But what Ball way to end the week. PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND DONATO SARDELLA GIANNONI AND DONATO GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2004 7 WWW.WWD.COM SCARY MOVIE STARS Even if it’s a school night, Peter and Jacqui Getty always host their Halloween bash on the very evening. This year, Peter dressed as Lord Nelson; Jacqui, as a mythical earth mother (in Chanel Couture), and her 17-year-old daughter, Gia Coppola, opted to go as a harlequin. The decked-out trio packed in some 400 or so rollicking guests on Sunday until 4 AM at their Whitley Heights home in Hollywood. Grandparents Eleanor and Francis Ford Coppola flew down from Napa to surprise Gia, and they looked smitten scanning the scene: Kirsten Dunst cut a cute Amish gal in overalls; Lisa Eisner channeled a kooky Phyllis Diller; Liz Goldwyn came as Inspector Clouseau; Robert Downey Jr. chose a creepy clown outfit, and Anthony Kiedis was a ghoulish vampire cowboy. Only a few party poopers — like Claire Forlani — skipped the costumes entirely. But that wasn’t a faux pas Heather Graham, as Wonder Woman, would repeat her second time around: “I learned last year that these people are really serious about dressing up.” Which is why the Gettys decided to install a portrait studio to formally capture each and every guest. Maybe it’s the political clime, but there were no fewer than two pairs of white-clad John & Yokos pushing peace. Among them, the duo of Jason Schwartzman and Zooey Deschanel, who kept themselves cozily parked in the Getty’s bed upstairs for all to come and gawk. Jacqui Getty with Gia Coppola.

Heather Graham as Lynn Wyatt in Yves Wonder Saint Laurent with Woman. Allison Sarofim in Marisa Tomei Oscar de la Renta. Patent Pendants HOUSTON — The Texas crowd is used to mammoth- sized gems, but even they were impressed by Cartier’s breathtaking exhibit of its most significant 20th-century eye® pieces at the Museum of Fine Arts here on Friday night. Cartier wisely turned to social fixture Becca Cason Thrash to help with its gala opening. The jeweler rewarded her with the loan of the biggest gem at the bash — a $6 million Burmese ruby and diamond collar originally made for the Maharishi of Nawanagar. Jason Schwartzman and Zooey “It’s a blast to wear this necklace,” said Thrash. “There are two Deschanel as John and Yoko. very interested buyers from San Francisco and Los Angeles, and I’m going back and forth between them.” Lynn Wyatt accented her beaded YSL gown with turquoise and diamond earrings and a matching brooch. Was it Cartier? “No, I’m criteria is that I have to like the music,” Harcourt says. “I wearing husband,” she quipped. have fairly diverse taste but I can’t like everything. I’m sure Architect and modern design guru Ettore Sottsass orchestrated RADIO HEAD there are people that wish I would play artists that I don’t.” every aspect of the show, which runs through March 27. He placed NEW YORK — Nic Harcourt is one of the most influential So don’t expect to hear a single Britney Spears song, the jewelry on black mounts within black vitrines lit by pinpoint men in music. But most people don’t even know what he though Travis famously covered Spears’ “...Baby One More lighting. The only light cast on visitors emanated from tall, backlit looks like. They can, however, instantly recognize his Time” during a live session with Harcourt. enlargements of original drawings for the pieces. voice — a low, soothing tone with a faintly British accent. “I like songs with melodies, hooks and beginnings, A handful of celebrities added some star power, including Marisa Since 1998, Harcourt has been the director and DJ middles and endings,” he says, counting L.A. indie Tomei, Jaclyn Smith and Lyle Lovett, who lives just outside Houston. at Morning Becomes Eclectic, the popular three-hour outift Rilo Kiley’s latest album, “More Adventurous,” “Becca asked me, so I had to come,” deadpanned Lovett. music program on KCRW, a national public radio station as his favorite for the year. Currently, his library houses

“It’s exciting, very elegant stuff,” Tomei said as she entered the ROSE APODACA JONES HAM BY out of Santa Monica, Calif. The popular show mixes live, 35,000 CDs — and he gives every CD a fair listen. exhibit with Gregory Boyd, artistic director of Houston’s Alley Theatre. unplugged sets and interviews and is one of the first One of the disks to cross his path was The Crimea’s “This is the most sophisticated party this town has ever seen,” places people go to hear important new music. “Lottery Winners on Acid,” released last month on mused Mickey Rosmarin, owner of Tootsies. Coldplay’s very first gig in the U.S. was on MBE, and Warner Brothers, which Harcourt, always way ahead of Surprise performer Jewel — pun clearly intended — took to the Harcourt is credited with jump-starting the Stateside the American curve, has been playing since last stage after dessert with an acoustic guitar in hand. careers of Moby, spring. And just that “They asked me if I minded wearing jewelry for the show, and I Garbage, David Gray Harcourt invited the said ‘No,’” Jewel told the crowd, “‘I’ll wear all of it.’” and many more. He is band to do MBE bodes one of a few — if not well for The Crimea’s the only — DJs with success Stateside. whom Thom Yorke, “‘The Crimea is Radiohead’s notoriously after the war obviously, difficult leader, will do and I feel like we’re at radio interviews. war constantly with Recently, he caught everything,” says the up with the new British band’s drummer Owen April rock band The Crimea Hopkin, though he adds in New York, inviting the that most of the battles Kimble quintet to do a live have more to do with with Lyle DJ Nic Harcourt, far right, interviews The Crimea’s Andrew Stafford, with Lyle broadcast on his show. faulty equipment. Joseph Udwin, Davey MacManus, Owen Hopkin and Andrew Norton Lovett. This was The Crimea’s The band’s biggest first live radio during a live feed from the Museum of TV and Radio. fight right now is performance and the bandmates were nervous, breaking into America, for which MacManus was willing to especially lead singer Davey MacManus. “I think you change his signature look. He had the huge gap in his front could tell,” MacManus admits later. “I could barely teeth — from a childhood fight — fixed before coming breathe when we first sat on stage.” here. “I had that gap for 15 years. I’m going to be vilified at Nerves aside, artists new and old rarely have qualms home,” he says. doing Harcourt’s show because, as he says, “They know A published poet, MacManus sets his perverse, we’re true to the music and it’s not about anything confessional lyrics to swinging pop melodies. In “Baby else.” He doesn’t delve into the dishiness of the Boom,” a beautiful off-kilter love song, he basically industry. And to date, the only interview that he missed apologizes to his lover for getting drunk and thus was Johnny Cash. When it comes to the show’s playlist, aggressively frisky. “I was apologizing for men in Harcourt covers more established acts like Neil Young, general, not just me,” he says. Elvis Costello and Wilco, all interviewed recently, as “I’m from Ireland and so I have a lot of guilt,” Holly Waltrip in Andrew Gn well as acts who haven’t even been signed yet, like MacManus adds. “We were watching ‘Unfaithful’ the flanked by Bernard Fornas Jesca Hoop, a local California folk singer. other day and I had to go smoke a cigarette a few times.” and Stanislas de Quercize. Neil and Maria Bush “I try to be inclusive but at the end of the day, the only — Nandini D’Souza HARCOURT AND CRIMEA PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO; CARTIER PARTY BY FULTON DAVENPORT; LOVETT AND GETTY BY WIREIMAGE; SCHWARTZMAN, GRA WIREIMAGE; SCHWARTZMAN, AND GETTY BY LOVETT DAVENPORT; FULTON BY PARTY CENTENO; CARTIER TALAYA AND CRIMEA PHOTO BY HARCOURT 8 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2004

Ready-to-Wear Report Tweeds and Dresses First for Fall NEW YORK — Shrunken jackets and special-occasion In terms of dresses, baby-doll and other novelty dresses are big hits this fall, according to a spot check of styles from Matthew Williamson in the $900 to $2,000 retailers. price range have “blown out,” because they can easily While some shoppers are picking up styles they have be dressed up or down, Sloane said. Mara Hoffman, seen on their favorite celebrities, others are more likely Catherine Malandrino and Diane von Furstenberg are to plunk down cash for a designer’s novel pieces. other popular labels with Intermix shoppers. Henri Bendel is having “a great season” for “very col- “What our customers are looking for: ‘Is it special or orful” tweed jackets with “unexpected details,” said fash- is it a print?’” Sloane said. ion director Scott Tepper. Among the bestsellers are Peter The popularity of the shrunken tweed jacket trend has Som’s $1,000 Donegal tweed jacket in bright yellow, Ingwa made its way to Waltham, Mass., where pastel versions Melero’s $498 yellow and blue tweed with rickrack trim are ringing up sales at Yolanda’s. Customers are wearing and Emanuel Ungaro’s $2,418 tweed and tulle jackets. them to throw on with a pair of jeans, or as a suit with a “Some of the designers we carry, especially some of skirt or pair of pants, said owner Yolanda Cellucci. the younger ones, did an unusually fresh-looking take,” “It’s something we’ve never really sold before, but it Tepper said. “Tweed jackets are doing well, really, all seems to be a big trend,” she said. “I was on a buying across the board.” trip recently and that’s what all the buyers were wear- Dress sales are also strong for the Fifth Avenue re- ing, so it must be.” tailer. Diane von Furstenberg’s $300 python prints, With retail prices ranging from $400 to $700, jackets — Matthew Williamson’s $1,300 slipdresses and $4,000 especially from A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz — are particu- evening dresses and Ungaro’s $5,000 black-tie dresses larly strong with working girls. Escaille, which offers have been bestsellers. jackets with detachable collars and cuffs retailing from “The $5,000 dresses sold first. This [past] summer $1,000 to $1,400, is another important label, Cellucci said. people were already looking for true In terms of dresses, short, cocktail black-tie evening dresses,” Tepper numbers are strong, as well as soft, chif- Milly is a said. “This fall, I do think there’s a Milly is a fon styles, halter looks and longer and great feeling of luxe in the air, espe- top seller asymmetric ones, Cellucci said. Chetta cially among people on the social at the B and Shani are two key resources at circuit. They really do want to look KKathathii Rich Yolanda’s, where shoppers are spend- unique and really dress so they Boutique. ing between $400 to $1,000 a dress. stand out.” Many shoppers are taking their At Macy’s West, suits with a more cues from photos of celebrities they modern look are attracting new, see in magazines or on TV, she added. younger customers and are helping to “A lot of the direction has to do with drum up sales, according to Nancy celebrity dressing. They see some- Nethery, vice president and divisional thing on someone and that’s what they merchandise manager for dresses, want. We know that because they suits and coats. Tweeds, colorful bring in the pictures,” Cellucci said. pieces and pinstripes are key styles. In Savannah, Ga., the daily temper- Stefani Greenfield, co-owner of ature still hovers around 70 degrees, Scoop, an eight-unit operation based but that isn’t deterring shoppers at here, said, “Everything is about the Blue Bell from buying jackets from little, fitted jacket whether it’s tweed, Theory, Trina Turk, Liquid, BCBG and velvet or faux fur. It’s the new uniform French Connection. Most women are — the jacket with jeans, a little lin- spending between $140 and $380 for a gerie top and sexy shoes.” jacket, said owner Heather Kaney. Matthew Williamson, Theory, “A lot of women are buying these Rebecca Taylor, Tree and Scoop’s pri- jackets for the fashion look more than vate label are among the better-selling the weather,” she said. lines for jackets. Miu Miu’s versions of While jacket sales are sailing jackets are also selling like “crazy, along, dress sales have slowed down Theory is a bestseller at Intermix. crazy,” as are ones from Missoni and at Blue Bell, as they typically do in Stella McCartney. the fall. Dress sales account for about said she has been selling a lot of platinum and gold “Designers really turned it out for 13 percent of the store’s overall busi- evening dresses, with styles by Sue Wong, Nanette jackets,” Greenfield said. “We’re selling ness, compared with 20 percent the Lepore and Tracy Reese leading the charge. them in brown, carmel, bordeaux, green rest of the year, Kaney said. Special- “With all the color, fur and dazzling stuff, it’s very — not as much in black, more navy.” occasion dresses from BCBG, eye-catching to have on. When you put on a black dress, Intermix, a six-unit operation here, Laundry by Shelli Segal and Nell you feel thin, but it’s not as girly,” Rich said. also is having a strong jacket season, Couture are key brands. The retailer plans to open another store next year in thanks mostly to the shrunken blazer Another Savannah retailer, Kathi another underserved area, but declined to say where. “I being a big hit, said Sari Sloane, head Rich Boutique, also is seeing interest like to go places where people need to learn about fash- buyer. With retail prices ranging from in cold-weather items. Mink shrugs ion,” Rich said. “When I came here three years ago, no $275 to $1,100, Vince’s plaid version from Milly, at $3,300; cashmere pon- one knew who Tracy Reese and Nanette Lepore were.” with bracelet sleeves; a large number chos from Susanna Monaco, at $264, At Holt Renfrew, shoppers are buying dressed-up of Theory blazers, including velvet ones, and Stella and Nanette Lepore cardigans with detachable fur col- looks, whether they be dresses, suits or an interesting McCartney’s suited looks are ringing up sales, she said. lars, at $340, are drumming up sales, according to the jacket, said Evelyn Reynolds, senior vice president and “This is definitely a very important category for us. owner by the same name. general merchandise manager of women’s wear. The price point has a real mix and it’s OK for day or Suit offerings are scarce at Rich’s boutique, since Bestsellers cover all price ranges from contemporary to evening,” Sloane said. her store is two doors down from a Banana Republic. designer. She said Rebecca Taylor, Diane von Sea by Chloé’s $575 puffer jacket in a black, ivory and But evening dresses are another story, especially any- Furstenberg and Dolce & Gabbana are key labels. yellow combination has been another standout for Intermix. thing sparkly with sequins or Swarovski crystals. She — Rosemary Feitelberg

THRIFTY BUSINESS: Natasha Richardson will host Housing Works’ first annual Fashion Action Benefit Nov. 10 at the new Rubin It is with great sorrow that we announce the passing of MARKET BASKET Museum in New York at 150 West 17th Street. More than 80 designers and brands have donated $1 million worth of new Bernard Zins merchandise for the four-day sale. Prada, Hugo Boss, Adrienne Landau, Pringle, Comme des Garçons, Dolce & (1925-2004) Gabbana, Diesel, DSquared, Martin Margiela, Nautica, Giorgio Armani, Tuleh and Tumi are among the donors. The Week is underwriting the event. Founder of BERNARD ZINS PARIS “This is another way to reach out to the fashion world,” said Matthew Bernardo, president of Housing Works thrift stores. For forty years, he inspired us to share his vision Prices start at a 60 percent markdown, and Housing Works expects to raise about $250,000. Proceeds will and his passion for perfection. benefit the homeless and people with HIV and AIDS. Benefit chair Bruce Bozzi approached his friend, Richardson, who is “very close to the cause,” due in part to her father, His boundless curiosity and sly good humor remain the late film director and producer Tony Richardson, having died of AIDS, he said. Members of the fashion industry also have with us and will inspire us forever. an affinity for Housing Works and have donated to its four thrift stores and used the bookstore for years, Bernardo said. 15 REASONS TO VOTE: Spiewak & Sons rounded up 15 artists to design customized parkas for a Rock the Vote fund- raiser on Oct. 28. Each of the jackets are being auctioned on eBay until Friday morning, and sales will be used to BERNARD ZINS, S.A. Paris, France help with national voter registration initiatives. The cartoonish work of James Marshall, better known as “Dalek,” BERNARD ZINS USA and Marco were the showstoppers at Thursday’s event at The Apartment at 101 Crosby Street in Manhattan. Spiewak, which celebrates its centennial this year, is interested in America’s youth and wanted to get them more involved in government and politics through this event, a company spokeswoman said. WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2004 9 WWW.WWD.COM Te x t i l e & Tr ade Report Poor Nations Push U.S. for Trade Breaks By Kristi Ellis reconvene for a lame-duck session after export earnings. That’s why 14 countries the presidential election, but it is highly Assistant are pressing for the U.S. to create a pro- WASHINGTON — A coalition of least-devel- unlikely lawmakers will take up a new U.S. Trade gram for the poorest South Asian countries. oped countries led by Bangladesh and bill before they adjourn for the year. Representative However, Ashley Wills, assistant U.S. Nepal is pressing its case for a preferential Embassy officials from Bangladesh, Ashley Wills. Trade Representative for South Asian trade program to get duty-free access to the Nepal, India, Sri Lanka and Pakistan joined Affairs, said, “There is a question as to U.S. market for a range of a senior U.S. trade official whether those countries currently with products, including tex- in a panel discussion on the preferential access in the form of zero tiles and apparel. Countdown to end of the quotas at the tariffs will actually benefit very much During a panel discus- School of Advanced from that preference. Zero tariffs may not sion Friday on the elimi- International Studies. confer the same advantages that quotas nation of textile and “Countries like do, especially when they can be offset by apparel quotas, several Bangladesh are having to lower production costs.”

South Asian embassy offi- days pay an average of 17 per- PHOTO GEMUNU AMARASINGHE/AP PHOTO BY Wills also took issue with Ahmad label- cials said they have met 59 cent duties, whereas coun- ing tariffs on textiles and apparel as “pro- with U.S. lawmakers tries like France and Japan protected items in the U.S.” tectionist” and said the 17 percent average recently to find a sponsor 2005 pay a 1.6 percent tariff for Least-developed countries are con- apparel tariff is not “prohibitively high.” for legislation to create a program akin to their goods to enter the U.S.,” said Syed cerned about the impact of quota removal “We have lost several hundred thou- ones the U.S. has with sub-Saharan African Hasan Ahmad, ambassador to the and potential massive layoffs and economic sands of jobs in the textile industry we countries and Caribbean Basin nations. Embassy of Bangladesh in Washington. upheaval. China is expected to dominate care about,” said Wills. “We continue to The chances of a bill moving anytime “It’s not free trade. It happens to be that apparel and textile production next year support free trade, but we want to also soon are slim. Congress is expected to textiles and apparel are one of the most and developing countries could lose major give our workers a chance.” Quota Watch: China Korean Makers Take High-Tech Approach A coalition of textile industry groups is filing a wave of safeguard petitions in an effort to keep a lid on Chinese imports after the 148 nations of the World Trade Organization NEW YORK — South Korean textile manufactur- billion worth of those goods over the year through drop their quotas on textiles and apparel next year. The safeguard mechanism, agreed ers are turning to high-tech fabrics in order to August, a 0.6 percent increase. It’s also becoming upon by China when it joined the WTO in 2001, allows importing nations to impose compete in the post-quota world. a relatively affluent country, with a per capita renewable one-year quotas on specific categories of Chinese goods if they find the “Our competitor is China,” said Suk Jae Seo, gross domestic product of $17,800 — reflecting imports are causing or threatening to cause market disruption. So far, the group, which sales department manager for Seoul-based Ul higher wages paid to its workers than in compet- includes the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, National Council of Textile Hwa Corp., a mill that produces outerwear fab- ing China, where the per capita GDP is $5,000. rics, including synthetics, fake leather, and suede By expanding its operations to Vietnam — Organizations, National Cotton Council, SEAMS, American Fiber Manufacturers and corduroy with special properties such as where per capita GDP is about $2,500 — Suk said Association and UNITE HERE, has filed seven safeguard petitions and plans to submit moisture management. China’s exports of appar- his firm will be better able to compete with its six more. Overall, it’s targeting $1.96 billion in imports in 21 categories, arguing that el and textiles are expected to surge next year larger neighbor. the Bush administration must do something to protect the remaining 695,800 U.S. after the 148 nations of the World Trade Ul Hwa was among a contingent of 24 South garment and fabric production jobs. The U.S. on Friday approved for review the Organization drop their quotas on those items Korean firms that exhibited at the Korean Preview coalition’s first petition, which covered cotton trousers. A separate coalition had its starting Jan. 1. in New York trade show at the Metropolitan Suk said his firm, which ships about $75 mil- Pavilion in Manhattan Oct. 19 and 20. petition approved last month to impose safeguard quotas in Chinese socks, which lion worth of fabric a year, has adopted a two- Another exhibitor, John Jeon, chief executive became effective Friday. A 7.5 percent growth cap will stay in place for a year, unless pronged strategy to prepare. At its South Korean officer of Neosil Ltd., said through a translator the U.S. and China negotiate a different level. Below, a look at China’s imports in the 12 factory, it produces mainly innovative fabrics that his firm — a vertical maker of yarn, fabric categories on which the textile coalition has sought safeguards. that it believes don’t face as much direct compe- and garments — thought it would benefit from the tition. For more generic fabrics, the company last end of quotas. He noted that in South Korea, as in PRODUCT QUOTA LIMIT USAGE TO DATE year opened a second factory in Vietnam, where China, exporters must pay to get access to quota operating costs are lower. rights. This means his prices will likely drop next Mens’ and boys’ woven shirts 870,370 dozen 87.4 percent South Korea is the U.S.’s sixth-ranked supplier year, which will offer a competitive advantage. of imported apparel and textiles, shipping $2.64 — Scott Malone Man-made fiber knit shirts 2.7 million dozen 84.2 percent

Cotton sheets 5.2 million units 81.1 percent

Cotton knit shirts 2.5 million dozen 80.6 percent

Women’s and girls’ woven shirts 1.5 million dozen 78.8 percent

Man-made fiber underwear 3.5 million dozen 77.7 percent

Cotton underwear 1.7 million dozen 77.6 percent COUNTRY FOCUS: Cotton yarn 2.7 million kilograms 76.5 percent

SOUTH KOREA Women’s and girls’ man-made fiber trousers 1.2 million dozen 76.2 percent

GDP: $857.8 billion/$17,800 per capita (2003) Men’s and boys’ man-made fiber trousers 1.7 million dozen 74.8 percent GDP Change: +3.1 percent Population: 48.6 million Wool trousers 76,352 dozen 66.8 percent Unemployment: 3.4 percent Te xtile and apparel imports to U.S.: $2.64 billion, +0.6 percent* Cotton trousers 2.4 million dozen 64.8 percent Key products: Man-made fiber shirts and blouses, man-made fiber sweaters, knit fabric, cotton hosiery. Currency: $1 U.S. = 1,128 won Major companies: Hyosung Corp., Samsung SOURCE: U.S. CUSTOMS AND BORDER PROTECTION TEXTILE STATUS REPORT

One of the four so-called “Asian Tigers,” over the last four decades South Korea has risen to become a manufac- turing powerhouse, moving from textiles and apparel into higher-value sectors such as semiconductors, electronics and cars. With the 148 nations of the World Trade Organization poised to drop their quotas on textiles and apparel Jan. 1, the nation is likely to lose share in the garment sector to poorer neighboring countries, such as China and Vietnam, a recent WTO report concluded. “Korea expects its exports to decline after the liberalization of textile trade due to fiercer competition from lower labor-cost countries,” the report noted. The nation’s growing wealth has essentially priced it out of apparel manufacturing. While it retains its number-six rank among the U.S.’s leading suppliers of imported textiles and apparel, its overall exports in those categories dropped by about 20 percent from 2000 to 2003, the WTO reported. Shipments to the U.S. now represent more than half its apparel exports. South Korea’s surviving textile and apparel firms have adopted approaches similar to their rivals in the U.S. and Japan — TIGER BUTTON CO., INC. using domestic production for high-tech, high-value products and moving production of more generic goods to TIGER TRIMMING, INC. lower cost nations. 307 West 38th Street New York, NY 10018 (212)594-0570 800-223-2754 FAX (212)695-0265 * FOR THE 12 MONTHS ENDED AUG. 31 SOURCES: THE CIA WORLD FACTBOOK, U.S. COMMERCE DEPARTMENT, WORLD TRADE ORGANIZATION, U.S. STATE DEPARTMENT, OANDA.COM email: [email protected] www.TIGERBUTTON.com Face

Source: WWD Subscriber Study 2003, Beta Research Inc. Time.

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™ 12 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2004 Industry Chiefs Boost ’04 Voter Registration By Joanna Ramey Milliken & Co.’s Don’t Forget to Vote poster. potential thirtysomething-and-under citizens who haven’t felt compelled to vote. WASHINGTON — Fashion industry executives as diverse as While Citizen Change hasn’t kept track of voters reg- Sean “P. Diddy” Combs and Roger Milliken are among the istered, organizers have judged the effort a success activists in the forefront of registering hundreds of thou- based on crowds at rallies of predominantly low-income, sands of new voters who may determine the outcome of the inner-city youth. race for the White House. “It looks like the hip-hop generation can become the The New York-based Combs, president and chief execu- next NRA [National Rifle Association] or AARP [American tive officer of Sean John, has energized young voters by cre- Association for the Advancement of Retired People],” in ating the Citizen Change campaign with its “Vote or Die” terms of political influence, said Alexis McGill, executive slogan targeting 18- to 34-year-olds. Milliken, chairman and director for Citizen Change. “We have economic power and ceo of Spartanburg, S.C.-based Milliken & Co. and a cham- social power — cultural power to make things cool and hot.” pion of saving textile jobs, has pushed unprecedented voter While a tally hasn’t been kept of the number of voters registration drives at the company’s 50 domestic factories recently registered at Milliken and Co., a company that employ about 10,000 workers. with the New Voter Project. The group has spokesman estimated that about 90 percent of the work- The get-out-the-vote efforts have been spent $10 million mobilizing young voters ers are registered. Other textile mills, part of an indus- widespread in the industry. Outdoor brand in Colorado, Wisconsin, New Mexico, trywide effort, also have rallied behind the call to revamp Patagonia has registered voters through Election Nevada, Iowa and Oregon. These states are U.S. trade policies with an emphasis on international its Vote the Environment campaign. among the battlegrounds where the presi- trade’s uneven effects on American manufacturers, Designers, including Donna Karan, Betsey dential election is expected to be decided, including textiles. Since the last presidential election, Johnson, Nicole Miller, Mark Ecko, 2004 along with Ohio, Pennsylvania, Florida, 350,500 textile and apparel workers have lost their jobs. Tommy Hilfiger and Kenneth Cole, have Michigan, and Missouri. Like Milliken, the 1,050 employees at National created voter T-shirts, sponsored ads that The New Voter Project is unaffiliated Spinning Co. in Washington, N.C., have listened to talks promote voting and spread the gospel of politically, backed instead by Pew Research from executives about the role of the president and con- participating in the process. Center and George Washington University. gressional lawmakers in setting trade policies and been An invigorated electorate is a wild card in The group has registered 346,000 new voters, handed voter registration applications. By law, manage- deciding the neck-and-neck race between but doesn’t keep track of party affiliation. ment can’t advocate particular candidates. President Bush and Democratic challenger Alexander said young voters aren’t necessari- “I really don’t know how many are going to vote, but Sen. John Kerry, as well as close Senate races ly for Kerry. Based on polls, “younger voters they certainly have been provided with adequate data to in states such as South and North Carolina, for the most part have been undecided” lead- understand who’s running and what their positions are,” Colorado and Kentucky. ing up to Election Day, he said. said Jim Chesnutt, National Spinning’s president and ceo. “Every vote is important this election,” It is also uncertain whether a large An estimated 1 million people have been registered said Curtis Gans, director of the Committee turnout among infrequent voters would through the Hip-Hop Summit Action Network’s voter for the Study of the American Electorate. benefit Kerry. In previous elections, “peo- registration drives, including its Team Vote GOTV bus “Anybody who’s predicting is crazy.” Benjamin Chavis, president ple who don’t vote as often turned out to be tour through 26 cities in 10 battleground states. There During the 2000 presidential election and chief executive officer of Democrats,” said Michael McDonald, who are two buses that started their separate tours Oct. 1 and between Bush and Al Gore that was decid- the Hip-Hop Summit Action studies voting behavior as a visiting fellow are stopping in primarily poor urban neighborhoods, ed by the U.S. Supreme Court, 54 percent Network, and its chairman, with the Brookings Institution. However, said HHSAN publicist Jody Miller. of registered voters turned out, or 106 mil- Russell Simmons. these “occasional” Democratic voters could Hip-hop stars such as Missy Elliott, who is scheduled lion people, Gans said. This year should easily be offset “by all the organizing the to be with the bus in Miami today, have been part of the see 58 to 60 percent of the electorate cast ballots, or 118 Republicans have done in the churches.” tour. The idea is to engage young voters’ attention and million to 121 million people. Combs has used his celebrity and marketing smarts in after they register, follow up with telephone calls and e- The combination of hard-charging and well-financed college and inner-city voter registration efforts and mails to remind them to go to the polls, Miller said. Republican and Democratic campaigns and citizens teamed with other high-profile campaigns like MTV’s “This is done the way we do hip-hop concerts,” Miller engaged by the Iraq War, terrorism and economic issues “Choose or Lose” voter drive and Russell Simmons’ Hip- said. “We’ve had street teams advancing each city with fly- have created “a perfect storm” for a large turnout, said Hop Summit Action Network. Their mission has been to ers and posters. The artists are an incredible marketing Adam Alexander, national communications coordinator relate national issues such as rising health-care costs to powerhouse because the kids listen and look up to them.” Moby Unveils Little Idiot Collective Macy’s East Taps Mansour NEW YORK — The techno rocker Moby has taken a circuitous route to NEW YORK — In its second key appointment in less the apparel industry, having opened a cafe and introduced a line of than a week, Macy’s East named James Mansour as iced teas before getting around to taking on T-shirts. executive vice president of visual merchandising. On Saturday, Moby opened his second retailing venture on the Mansour was a principal of Mansour Design, a Lower East Side, a small storefront at 231 Eldridge Street called the New York retail design and brand development firm Little Idiot Collective, which sells a small range of Ts, prints and books that he founded. He will report directly to Randy by a group of underground illustrators he has cultivated through vari- Scalise, executive vice president of stores. ous friends. In the coming months, he also will open a takeout shop Ron Klein, chairman and chief executive officer of next door to the vegetarian cafe Teany that Moby opened on Rivington Macy’s East, said in a statement Monday that Mansour Street in 2002 and that served as the inspiration for the bottled bever- is “a veteran in visual retail design and display…He age collection he began to distribute more broadly this year. understands our overall branding philosophy and will “I don’t really understand why I’m doing all this, myself,” the 39- interpret it for the consumer by making our stores year-old artist said. “I seem to have a pathological need to open even more dynamic and exciting places to shop.” storefronts to do things.” Mansour succeeds Bill Herbst, who joined Saks The idea for Moby’s latest venture came as much from his own Fifth Avenue earlier this year as vice president of doodles, those of bug-like creatures he calls “little idiots,” as it did visual merchandising. from his introduction to a range of local illustrators. He admired the Last week, Macy’s East named Nicole Fischelis as works of several such artists and sensed a market for their works vice president and fashion director for ready-to-wear. that had not yet been explored. Fischelis is a former Saks Fifth Avenue fashion direc- “Lots of industries, like fashion, music or art, are very competi- tor and Salvatore Ferragamo senior vice president. tive,” Moby said. “In underground drawing, no one expects to get rich, Mansour will play an important role in Macy’s so no one is very competitive. This is coming from my enthusiasm for national branding strategies, and will work closely underground cartoon art, and my basic belief that in making things with the merchants, marketing and specialty servic- that are cute and adorable, you are making the world a better place.” es. His responsibilities will include store design and In addition to his own works — one shows the “little idiots” at a DJ’s Moby and Elizabeth layout, graphics, store remodels and store openings, turntables — Moby invited nine artists to create two or three illustra- Baum at the Little creative planning and window displays. tions that have been replicated on cotton T-shirts, which are expected to Idiot Collective. His team will include Mark Minichiello, group change seasonally as part of the offerings at the store. Those include a vice president of creative planning, graphics and sketch of a fat chicken wearing a fez, drawn by Elizabeth Baum, a free- design and store design, and Joan Capaldo, group lance fashion designer who is serving as creative director of Little Idiot vice president of visual merchandising. Collective. There are also cartoon works by James Kochalka, a buck- Mansour’s work history includes a 15-year run at toothed squirrel and butterfly pairing by Marcus Randolf and a “good Limited Brands as vice president of design and visu- egg” by Sara Varon. The T-shirts range from $30 to $38, depending on the al merchandising, working with the Limited, Express style, and each has been produced in limited runs of about 84 units. and Victoria’s Secret divisions. In 1993, he created Although the images are playful and childlike, some even replicat- Mansour Design for retail concepts and brand ed in children’s styles, they also have a subversive side to them. makeovers, and had a client list that included “You can’t find so much aggression in a cute little T-shirt shop,” Abercrombie & Fitch, Bath & Body Works, Sony Moby said, just as he began to leaf through the selection of books fea- Style, Warner Bros., Carter’s Brookstone, Milliken, tured in the store, including some by the same artists, such as Vitra and Movado. Kochalka’s “Fancy Froglin’s Sexy Forest,” which tells the story of a frog Macy’s East is a 81-unit division of Federated who suffers from an erectile dysfunction. Department Stores. — Eric Wilson T-shirts on display, including Moby’s “little idiots.” — David Moin Manolo Blahnik leopard print with rhinestone ankle strap sandal | $995 800-937-9146

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Design Back Room Manager Moderate Contemporary / Missy Production Import Pro NY eveningwear company seeks expe- Blouses & Sportswear Co looking Needed to follow up designer line from rienced person to manage sample product development to sourcing, price room & design studio. Must have good to add to our design team: negotiation, & purchasing. Must have organizational and computer skills. exp in knits and wovens w/ factories in Fax resume to: 240-352-4830 DESIGNER 488 Seventh Avenue Must be motivated and creative with the China & India. Excellent opportunity. BI-LINGUAL CHINESE ability to identify emerging trends and Fax resume to: 212-239-2409 LIVE/WORK •TD-KNITWEAR $35-$50K silhouettes. Must possess great color & Small 1 BR SHOWROOMS...... $1575 •PRODUCTION COORD $30-50K print sense. Production/Knit Asst Large 1 BR SHOWROOMS...... $1795 [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 ASSISTANT DESIGNER Knit factory direct importer seeks Wood floors. Hi ceils. Doorman. Immed. Assisting on working on design projects bilingual Cantonese/Eng, good follow- 212-629-8694 - MON-FRI - NO FEE BUYER - PIECE GOODS from start to finish. Individual must have up, detail oriented, computer skills, Major dress company seeks buyer to: excellent communication skills & be multi-task assistant. Fax resume to: • Buy and process all piece goods proficient in Illustrator and Photoshop. (212) 268-9073 orders for foreign production. Please Fax Resume: 212-719-5947 For Space in Garment Center • Negotiate best price/quality with vendors. PRODUCTION • Manage spreadsheets to ensure Director Of Helmsley-Spear, Inc. correct usage met for tickets. MANAGER 212-880-0414 • Maintain records of purchases/approvals. Sourcing/Product MAGASCHONI APPAREL GROUP Major NYC Footwear Company seeks the following: Requisite Experience/Skills: is seeking candidates that have strong • Sourcing textiles. Development background/knowledge in all phases of Showroom / Office / Retail Production Associate • Letters of credit and documentation. knitwear/sweater production. Must be Strongly financed & highly profitable familiar w/yarn sourcing, be able to We find you space-best deal-no fee 1-2 yrs production exp in shoes or apparel to act as liaison between • Strong computer skills. St. Louis based Manufacturer of Sublet 525 7th/ready • Ability to work in fast-paced high interact with buyers/design team, be Military/Public Safety Apparel and excellent at follow up with knit down/ Garment Center Real Estate our Product Development team and factories. Knowledge of Footworks pressure environment. related items seeks an experienced, Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Please fax resume to: 212-769-3275 LD/samples and be familiar with cost- software preferred. hands on manager to create a global ing. Candidates must have strong sourcing program for our Branded organizational skills, able to communicate *CONVERTER* Division. Experience in sourcing in with overseas offices/ vendors, be com- Production Planning Assistant Import Woven Print - Exp Xlnt Oppty. the Asian markets is a must. This puter literate and detail oriented. Must Showrooms & Lofts Track sample shipments, assist in preparation of detail and spec Apparel Staffing, Fax (212) 302-1161 Manager will communicate our quality, have 6 yrs min. exp. We will consider BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS design and fit specs. Negotiate prices. candidates with less exp. as an assistant. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail sheets. Maintain computerized library of style names. Must be familiar CUSTOMER Serv-9-5 hours/1+ yrs w/a Choose mfgrs. Monitor delivery, Pls fax resumes to 509-757-7814 or ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 rug or apparel mfr taking orders/deal inspection and have a general familiarity email to [email protected] with MS Word and Excel. w/whse/phonework/be comp lit. $32-39K with financial instruments. Plan to Les Richards Agcy; Call (212) 221-0870 work with Agents and Factory Direct. Production Sublease - 4500 FT. w/ Terrace Merchandise Coordinator Excellent oppty to source a highly Great Showroom, 6 Offices Customer Service respected brand and join a small group PatternMaker South Facing Views - Move In Visit major department stores in NY metropolitan area, report on sales, of highly motivated executives. N.Y. based Missy Moderate private NYC based Women’s Contemporary RTW Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 product placement, re-organize stock. Experience preferred. Compensation, Health Benefits, 401K, label Sportswear company seeks Co. seeks organized, computer savvy etc. are excellent. production patternmaker for Woven individual. Knowledge of AIMS a plus. (Jackets and Skirts). Minimum of 8-10 Benefits. E-mail: Fax resume to 636-685-1005 Customer Service Rep [email protected] Email to [email protected] years experience Lycra experience a Footworks experience preferred/working knowledge of Excel. attn: Executive VP Marketing plus. Fax resume to: 1-212-730-2531. DESIGN ASSISTANTS •FABRIC R&D COORD $70-$80K PUBLICIST Attractive mid-town location. KNITWEAR Source, Track, Order Yardage •FABRIC R&D MANAGER $70K Fashion, Beauty, Art & Entertainment Fax resume with salary history and requirements to: 212-246-6837 Republic Clothing is looking for 3 assts Press Office seeks high energy Publicist w /sweater background. Two with min 2-5 Must have international Exp 1411 B’dwy - Sublet to 6/30/05 •FABRIC R&D ASSIST $45K w/strong Public Relations skills & contacts 530 sq. ft • 4th Floor www.ninashoes.com EOE yrs experience and one entry level. Must to work in fast paced environment. 1-2 be well organized, have excellent flat Better Bridge Manufacturer 1 Month FREE Rent for Immediate [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 years experience writing & pitching arti- Occupancy. Call: 212-719-3220 sketching skills, be computer literate w / cles req’d. Fax resume to: 212-971-6066 knowledge of Photoshop & Illustrator & be team oriented. Responsibilities include FASHION FACULTY MERCHANDISER PRODUCT sketching, specs, fittings, sourcing & com- Private college seeks faculty for RECEPTIONIST COUNT YOUR CHICKENS MANAGER GIRLS munication w / overseas production teams. Fashion Program. Ph.D. degree prefer- Sweater Company seeks well organized Lower your rent. Fabulous affordable space. JEANSWEAR Fax resume to: 212-719-3154 or red, Master’s degree required, along individual to manage the front desk 1,500-10,000 SqFt Call Allan Gallaway email: lana @republicclothing.com with significant industry experience. day to day office duties. Must have ex- Exciting oppty to join ladies’ Terrific opportunity for highly cellent phone manner and desk appear- Bernstein R.E. 212-594-1414 Ext 251 organized product manager Knowledge of textiles, product develop- team of one of America’s ment, buying, visual merchandising, ance. Excel, Word and Photoshop/ with 3-5 years’ experience merchandise planning and control. Illustrator knowledge is a plus. Please most successful brands. DESIGN ASSISTANT fax resume to 212-768-2102 to join girls team at successful Working on woven design project from Send resume to: Fashion Search, Responsibilities: private brand. start to finish including specs, preparing Berkeley College, 44 Rifle Camp Road Merchandise denim & casual overseas follow-up, trim cards, fabric West Paterson, NJ 07424. RELOCATION Oversee all production phas- Fax: 973-278-0080 *CONN-TD Designer Director $125-150K bottoms from concept library and researching trims. Qualified es from inception through candidate must have an eye for trend, or Email: [email protected] Strong Managerial Exp, Supv Staff of 20. through completion. Manage Equal Opportunity Employment *PHILA-TD(2) Bet Wovns Sprtwr $30-$80K approval. creative energy and able to work in a fast existing business while Iden- paced environment and meet deadlines. *PHILA-Pattmaker Better Dresses $78K 1-2 years experience required. FIRST & PRODUCTION *WISCONSIN-Pattmakers & TD’s $$$$$ tifying and implementing Must be computer literate [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 new opportunities. with excellent organizational Fax resume to: 917-510-9778 PATTERN MAKER and communications skills. Sportswear & dress co. seeks diverse SALES ASSISTANT Requirements: pattern maker with experience in Extremely detail oriented, fast paced Background in girls’ denim DESIGN ASSISTANT jackets & dresses. Successful candidate has an and casual styles a must. environment. Must have MS Word and eye for trends with a min. 7 WOVEN Fax resume 212-302-5763 Excel experience. Fax resume with cover We are a great company of- Republic Clothing seeking asst. for its Attn: Lynn letter to: 212-967-2420 or email to: years’ experience & strong women’s sportswear & separates division. [email protected] denim background. The abil- fering comprehensive benefits. All inquiries must Must be well organized, have excellent flat GRAPHIC ARTIST - STYLIST ity to work effectively in sketching skills, be computer literate w / Private label company seeks experienced knowledge of Photoshop & Illustrator & Seamstress/Tailor teams and with buyers and include salary requirements. graphic artist to design for kids, missy Sewer needed to start ASAP for high end be a team player. Responsibilities include &plussize screen printed tees for mass suppliers is crucial. Must be Important: Make sure to sketching, specs, fittings, sourcing and textile mfr. Ability to sew simple curtains, market. Candidates must have an ex- also cut, serge, and label fabric samples an organized and highly send attn. GIRLS communication w / overseas production cellent color sense, strong illustration teams. Minimum 3-5 yrs experience req’d. in bulk. Prior exp. working with fabric motivated self-starter with when faxing resume to skills and ability to spot trends. Macin- helpful. Good pay & excellent benefits. Fax resume to: 212-302-4823 or tosh efficient with an excellent command good computer & communi- 212-221-2291. Email: [email protected] to set up interview or Fax Sample Mgr.: of Illustrator and Photoshop. Understand- Tel: 718-752-9830 x 206 / Fax: 718-752-0419 cations skills. ing of spot color separations. E-mail or Fax resume, cover letter and 5 samples Secretary/Admin. Asst Competitive benefits/ com- DESIGN of artwork to Michael at : pensation package, great Experienced Secretary to work for busy Associate Designer [email protected] / 212-779-2661 CEO/Pres. Duties Include scheduling working atmosphere. VP Fast growing Women’s Contemporary appts, making travel arrangements, Sportswear Co. seeks creative & organized IMPORT COORD $50K screening calls etc. Must have good For immediate consideration, MANUFACTURING/ individual to create woven & knit line. Swimwear mfr. Bi-ling. Chinese or Korean computer skills. Please fax resume: all inquiries must include PRODUCTION Work closely with head designer. Overseas [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 212-382-2421 Attn: June salary requirements. experience a plus. Fax: 646-366-0532 Please fax resume attn Prominent Apparel Manf Co. SHOWROOM ASSIST/ seeks leader to re -engineer DESIGN ASS’T./to 40k PATTERNMAKER Denny @ 212-221-3857 Contemporary/Better Mkt. Children’s clothing co. Exp. required. FIT MODEL domestic 300 employee pro- Great oppty. for talented designer to Philadelphia. Please email resume to: SUCCESSFUL Related Separates com- duction plant. Manage import asst. 2 top des/merch. on a Ladies & [email protected] pany has opportunity for a dynamic, and domestic production plan- Men’s Contemporary very “hot” active/ team player. Duties include ADM sportwear lines. Req: 2+ yrs. des. expr., w/ Pattern maker SALES SUPPORT, COMPUTER DATA ning and souring depart- expr. in the better mkt. (ladies pref. will HEAD ENTRY, GEN COMMUNICATIONS, Chief Operating Officer ments. Improve efficiency, re- train men’s), ability to do bodies, graphics, AND ASST IN PRDCTN AS FIT MODEL. /General Manager duce operating expenses and tech packs, knowl. of garment /fabric con- PATTERN MAKER Candidate should be SIZE 8 (Bust 36- struction, strong Illustrator /Photoshop skills. Major better dress mfr. in business for 37, Waist 28-29, Hips 38-39) to qualify Rapidly expanding company lead times. E-mail resume: [email protected] 25 years seeks an experienced and for the fitting purposes. Experience with looking for a Mgr. with min. Fax: 732 280-6190 (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 knowledgeable HEAD PATTERN MS Word, Excel, and Outlook necessary. of 10 years exp. to grow the Email: [email protected] MAKER. Must posses day to evening Fax resume 212/730-7872 better dresses and suits imported. company in both retail and Designer Must be organized with strong and production sectors. Candidates Artist Assistant Designers decisive technical communication Showroom Manager PATTERN/SAMPLES must possess knowledge of Asst. Designers with min of 2 yrs exp skills, and able to thrive in a fast paced Required for celebrity bridal designer high-end fashion or jewelry ABSORBA ARTIST are needed in accessories, children’s environment. Computer literate such Michelle Roth min. 2 yrs. experience. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Full time newborn and infants’ wear, sportswear, & sleepwear. Must as e-mail and excel spreadsheets helpful. Responsibilities include trunk show & work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 market, wholesale and retail childrenswear artist w/ a min. 3 yrs exp. in be proficient with Photoshop & Illus- Fax resume attention HR: 212-869-4011 trade show preparations, customer sales and production. Hands garment industry. Must be proficient trator. Salary $35-40K. Fax resume to service & appointment scheduling. on position offering great w/Photoshop. Creative team player w/ Carla @ 201-894-1186 or email: Strong communication skills, detail original ideas and production back- [email protected] PATTERNMAKER oriented & exceptional organizational Patterns/Samples/Beading growth potential. Excellent ground preferred to join friendly group. KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS High fashion design company seeks skills. Email [email protected] Duplicates Cut & Sew salary and benefits offered. Email resume to: [email protected] skilled Production Patternmaker for or fax 212-245-3374, REF 118 Full Service - Small Production Fax resume to: 718-422 -7584 evening and sportswear. Fax resume and Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 DESIGNER - Eveningwear salary requirements to: 212-764-6646 SPEC TECHNICIAN/ Couture Co. seeks creative Designer w/ Piece Goods Mgr to $80K. Current exp. TECH DESIGNER min. 10 years exp. in Eveningwear Mkt. in buying women’s or men’s outerwear/ Better Sportswear/cut & sew knitwear PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Accounts Receivable 45K Knowledge of European rfabric/trim req’d. coats piece goods required. Midtown Co. seeks pro with 5+ yrs experience. Heavy credit & collections, c/b’s Must be motivated w/exp’d. eye for fresh growing co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. Must be computer literate, detail orient- PRODUCTIONS Major apparel company & exciting concepts. Fax: 212-302-1272 ed, focused, hardworking. Must have All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Raskin Executive Search Ed Kret Product Development patternmaking, fitting, grading, garment Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Fax:732-536-4770 Email:[email protected] Womens Apparel co. seeking exp’d or- construction, import specing and over- Artist Needed DESIGNERS ganized person to handle all aspects of sea communication skills. Follow Fast growing childrenswear co. seeks a •VP Design Better Vertical Retailer $250K product development. Must be able to garment from sample development PATTERNS, SAMPLES, highly motivated & fast artist for design, •Designer Suits Vertical Retailer $120K work closely with accounts from receipt of through production. Travel may be APPAREL JOBS ads, websites, production, packaging etc. •Designer Dress Pvt Label Mfr $95K sketch to samples. Good communication required. Salary commensurate with PRODUCTIONS 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)SpecTechs Mastery of Photoshop & Illustrator A MUST. •Designer Moderate Mkt, JCP $90K and computer skills required. exp. Benefits & friendly environment. Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine 3)Designers-assoc-assists boy-girl-YG men-Jr Fax resumes to 212-695-0203 •Designer Suits. Bridge Market $90K Please fax resume to 212-382-2421. Fax resume to: 212-768-7773 fast work. 212-869-2699. Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) or email: [email protected] [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Attn: Susan P. email: [email protected] WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2004 15 WWW.WWD.COM Searles in Running Shiseido Net Down as Overseas Sales Rise By Koji Hirano cent in local currency. Sales from market, products for men struggled, but For Wilsons’ Post? Europe, making up 11.2 percent of sales of makeup products, such as TOKYO — Shiseido Group reported in- sales, rose 9.6 percent on a yen basis Majolica Majorca, and antiperspirants, NEW YORK — Michael Searles may be back come from operations fell 25.3 percent and 8.2 percent in local currency. Sales AG+, showed strong growth. running another distressed retailer — he’s to 14.3 billion yen, or $131.2 million for in the Asia/Oceania region, which made Overseas cosmetics sales grew 11 per- a candidate for chief executive officer at the first half ended Sept. 30, primarily up 8.3 percent of sales, gained 15.1 per- cent on a yen basis, but 14.1 percent in Wilsons The Leather Experts, sources said. because of a significant strategic in- cent, and in local currency, jumped 21.8 local currency. During the period, sales Last week, Wilsons announced that Joel crease in marketing costs centering on percent. Total overseas sales made up benefited from expanding economies in Waller, its current chairman and ceo, would its domestic cosmetics business, which 26.2 percent of entire sales. Asia, led by China, as well as the absence step down on Jan. 31 and that a successor outweighed the positive effects of high- “We are accelerating the globaliza- of factors adversely affecting the previ- would be named within a month. Wilsons’ er revenues and lower pension costs, tion of our business, with a focus on re- ous interim period such as the war in officials declined to comment on the the firm said. inforcing development of the Chinese Iraq and the SARS outbreak. In addition, Searles report. Reflecting the drop in income from market,” said the Japanese beauty giant sales of non-Shiseido brands were solid, Searles has one of the industry’s longest operations, Shiseido posted a 14.5 per- in a statement. “We accord top strategic notably Nars and Zirh, while fragrances track records running troubled companies, cent fall in ordinary income to 15.3 bil- priority to China and intend to achieve sold by Beaute Prestige International SA including Factory 2-U, the San Diego-based lion yen, or $140.5 million, while net in- a position of absolute dominance at the picked up, as well. off-pricer, and before that, Family Bargain come fell 27.3 percent to 4.77 billion yen, While cosmetics sales rose during Corp., which became Factory 2-U. Earlier or $43.8 million. Dollar figures have the period, Shiseido made major this year, Factory 2-U said it would sell off been converted at average exchange. strategic marketing expenditures, both its assets. Searles left Factory 2-U about two As Shiseido Group posted strong BEAUTY BEAT domestically and overseas, for future years ago. growth in overseas sales, especially in growth. The gain in such expenses ex- Before Family Bargain, Searles, who is Asia, for the first half, consolidated net prestige end of that nation’s cosmetics ceeded the positive effects of revenue in his mid-50s, was president of merchan- sales for the period gained 2.2 percent market. We will also concentrate mana- and earnings. As a result, income from dising and marketing for the defunct to 316.09 billion yen, or $2.9 billion, gerial resources on establishing a vol- cosmetics operations fell 16.1 percent. Montgomery Ward chain, and prior to that, year-over-year. untary chain store business.” Last week, Shiseido also announced a he was president and ceo of U.S. Shoe’s Despite intensified competition in Cosmetics sales, which made up special early retirement incentive plan. women’s specialty retail group, which is the toiletries business, domestic sales 78.9 percent of the entire business, in- About 1,000 full-time employees working also defunct, where he tried to turn around edged up 0.3 percent as the domestic creased 3.2 percent to 249.46 billion for Shiseido and its domestic Group Casual Corner. Casual Corner has been put cosmetics business obtained a result yen, or $2.29 billion, while sales from firms who will be between 50 and 59 on the market by its current parent, Retail exceeding last year’s, and pharmaceu- toiletries dropped 3.1 percent com- years of age, and who will have been in Brand Alliance, which also owns Brooks ticals and other businesses expanded. pared with a year earlier. service for 15 or more years, as of March Brothers. On a consolidated basis, overseas At the prestige end of the market, 31, are sought for early retirement. Searles made his mark as president of sales grew 8 percent to 82.77 billion yen, centering on counseling activities, sales “The objective of this plan is to sup- Kids ‘R’ Us from 1984 to 1993, building the or $759.8 million, driven by strong of skin care products such as Benefique, port and offer wider options to employ- chain from four to 200 units. He could not growth in China. On a local currency a line sold exclusively in voluntary chain ees in advanced age groups to suit their be reached for comment. basis, overseas sales swelled 11.8 per- stores, and makeup, centering on Pieds individual life plans,” the company said — David Moin cent. Sales from the Americas, repre- Nus, were both solid, with several main- in a statement. “Reemployment support senting 6.7 percent of sales, dropped 2 stay brands-lines reporting double-digit services will also be offered to applicants percent but showed a gain of 6.4 per- growth. In the midlevel, self-selection who desire to transfer to new fields.”

SR DESIGNER $125K + %BONUS Womens. Hang w/Banana & Club Monaco. Retail Manager Design Fall Collection. Wovens, Knits, Exciting ground floor opportunity to Sweaters, Jeans, Pants, Dresses, etc. manage the first location of a new [email protected]; Call 212-947-3400 high-end lingerie retail concept. The store is in a prime location in SWEATER DESIGNER Manhattan’s Meatpacking District. Contemporary sports co. seeks designer The concept is well capitalized with with min. 5 years import exp. Must plans for growth throughout the US have technical knowledge of yarns and internationally. & sweater construction The ideal candidate will be creative, Fax Resume 212-302-5763 Exciting opportunities with the leader in urban fashion in goal oriented and energetic, with Attn: Lynn our Young Men’s, Juniors, Boy’s, Girl’s and Lot 29 Divisions strong communication skills and the ability to cultivate client relationships. SWEATERS 2-5 years relevant experience required. *TD-Sweater Better Bridge $60-80K SALES MANAGER Must have day, evening and weekend *TD-Knits Better Bridge $70K KEY ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE availability working an average of 50 *Sweater Prod’n Better Pvt Label $60K hours per week. *Production Coordinator $50-60K SALES ASSISTANT (NJ BASED) Full time position eligible for a com- *Production Assist, Sourcing $46K *TD Knits Moderate Sportswear (2) $40-70K plete benefits package including [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Key account positions require 3-5 years experience. health and dental insurance, Long Term/Short Term Disability Insur- TD-MANAGER-Supervise 10 $150K We offer an excellent salary and benefits package. ance, 401(k), paid vacation & holidays. TD-WOVENS/KNITS $110K TD-MANAGER-Supervise 4-6 $100-$110K [email protected] P/T Sales Assoc. SR TD-Woven’s Tops & Bottoms $85K Also hiring part time sales associates. TD-KIDS-Tops & Bottoms $85K EOE. Drug-free workplace. Back- TD-MENS Bottoms Shirts Outwear $65K ground check required. TD-KIDS-Biling Chinese. Sizes 7-16 $50K TD-JUNIOR-Bottoms $50K SALES EXECUTIVE E-mail resumes to: SPECH TECH Better Bridge $45K SLEEPWEAR Successful and fast growing Private [email protected] [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 Label Sweater/Knitwear Company has Est’d. Midtown Lingerie Co. seeks excellent and challenging opportunity Tech designer $60-65K. Current exp in Sales Pro’s to sell our moderate to for an experienced seller. Responsibili- ties include selling, marketing and Retail Sales Assoc. menswear. Bottoms. Denim. Twill. Hirshleifer’s seeks office assistants Wovens. Fittings. Grading. Send specs better line. Only exp’d. candidates development. Great opportunity for an aggressive, entrepreneurial individual and sales associates with extensive to Far East. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. need apply. Call or Fax resume to: exp in designer RTW for their Dolce & 212-889-7878 212-889-8411 with a company in a major expansion Technical Design Assoc $50-60K T: / F: mode.Fax resume with cover letter Gabbana and Jil Sander boutiques. Infant/ toddler. Boys & girls to 212-242-4418 Att: Angela Fax resume: 516-627-3579 Janet Stevens*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 [email protected] SALESPERSON / W. Village Shop TECHNICAL DESIGNER Busy W. Village, need management / Leading Children’s Importer seeks Account Executive MERCHANDISER sales pros. Min 1 yr exp in shoes / ac- Technical Designer with minimum 5 MAXX NEW YORK HANDBAGS is For new childrenswear line. Must have cessories. Fax Alida 212-675-6360. years exp, preferably in Boys & Girls. seeking responsible, self starter for experience & knowledge of building Experienced indeveloping specs from account management position. Candidate brands. Great opportunity & benefits. sketches, conducting fit sessions. must have at least 3 years experience Email [email protected] Thorough knowledge of garment in specialty store handbag sales and be construction, fit analysis. Able to follow familiar with Maxx product. through on all aspects of sample devel- Fax resume: 212-679-0311 Sales Rep - Specialty Stores opment & production. Computer skills Designer & manufacturer of 2 upscale a must and highly organized. Italian women’s collections that is both Fax resume to: 646-473-0815 trendy & fashion forward seeks Reps. We sell to over 70 Specialty Stores. VP Product Development Customer age 25-45 yrs. Great Territories Major importer seeks Product Development Private Label Sales Still Available. You must be a well es- /Sales person for their infant/ baby divi- Excellent opportunity for a motivated tablished multi-line traveling Rep that sion. Min. 3 years experience in sales professional to develop and grow sells to Specialty Stores. MUST have a SUIT DESIGNER sales/design of infant softline products. business. Est’d Sportswear/Sweater Co. min. of 3 yrs. sales experience with im- Very exp’d – worked with the best in industry. Weoffer an excellent compensation with its own factories seeks a self starter peccable references and compatible lines. Updated contemporary, Young Missy, Evening package commensurate with exp. w / established private label account Please send response to Hanaa at: Seeking consulting or P/T position. Please send resume to: base & experience to do volume. Fax: (310) 306-0844 or Tel: 212 252 9370 or [email protected] Pls fax resume to 917-510-9778 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Today’s stain-resistant cotton isn’t afraid of a few spills. Buy it for what it does. Buy it for what it doesn’t do. Cotton. The fabric of our lives.® www.cottoninc.com

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