Wildlife Photography Lesson 3
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WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY LESSON 3 Wildlife Photography Learning The “Formula For Success” BY ROBERT LA FOLLETTE Lesson 3: Formula For Success Photographing wildlife is all about being prepared. The more you have some basic understandings of the fundamentals you are well on your way to being successful. Sometimes luck has a little to do with it but more often then not it’s those who have honed their skills that the results are greater. As we have already learned the foundations are a very big part of the formula for success and now we must take those skills and execute them to achieve the results we all desire. There are many ways to achieve success but the key is that no two experiences will ever be the same. Whether it be the landscape, subject, weather, light or conditions, you will be constantly adjusting and compensating for your !1 WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY LESSON 3 environment. However, if you start with a solid formula you will quickly realize that your successes will far outnumber your failures. So to get started down that road for a lifetime of great wildlife images, let’s explore the secret formula to success. Your Camera Settings: Each and every time I set out to capture some amazing wildlife photographs I have a “starting point” where I adjust my settings on my camera. No matter what the conditions are, I always have my camera set up in the following (keep in mind this is for a Canon body, so if you are using a different manufacturer adjust your settings accordingly): MODE: Aperture Priority ISO: 400 F/STOP: 6.3 AUTO FOCUS: AI Servo DRIVE: High-speed Continuous Shutter Speed: 1/320s FOCUS POINT: Center Aperture: f/6.3 METERING: Evaluative ISO: 800 WHITE BALANCE: Cloudy Lens: 300mm QUALITY: RAW !2 WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY LESSON 3 American Oystercatcher Since I set my camera using the above formula all I need to do now is focus on the Oystercatcher. f/5.6 | ISO 100 | 1/400s Now let’s take a look in-depth on each of those nine settings in our “Formula For Success” and why I use them: MODE: Many have asked me why I choose Aperture Priority as opposed to Shutter Speed Priority or Manual Mode. The answer is actually quite simple. For me I want the largest aperture, or in another word, limited depth of field so that my subject is in crisp focus but the background is not. This insures me that my subject is isolated from their background and now is the focal point in my composition. The background then becomes complimentary and doesn’t compete with my subject for my viewer’s attention. !3 WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY LESSON 3 Gopher Tortoise When I came across this endangered Gopher Tortoise I wanted to capture what the world looks like from his perspective. I threw on my 10-22mm lens and at 10mm I got right on the ground with him to bring him up close and personal to the viewer. f/4.0 | ISO 800 | 1/250s ISO: I always start at ISO 400 and from there will adjust my setting depending on what my shutter speed is. If it is too high I simply lower it to 200 or perhaps even 100. If I don’t have enough I then raise it to 800 or higher. Remember the rule of thumb to follow is that you need at least 1/(focal length) to effectively handhold your lens, so if you have a 400mm lens, you should always strive to have at least 1/400th second for you shutter speed to avoid camera shake. If it drops below that threshold a tripod or monopod will help out by stabilizing your lens and avoid camera shake. Alternatively many of the newer lenses also have Image Stabilization or Vibration Reduction, which !4 WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY LESSON 3 are also very useful when you left your tripod at home! F/STOP: My workhorse lens is my EF 400mm 5.6L lens. Since most lenses can be soft when shot wide open (using the lowest aperture), I simply go 1/3 above that setting, which is f/6.3 for that lens. So for instance, my 70-200mm 2.8L I use f/3.2. Some may notice a difference when viewed on their computer at 100% zoom while others may not. But since all lenses get progressively sharper the higher you go in aperture 1/3 stop higher then the lowest setting ensures me that I am getting a nice sharp image and avoid any potential for softness. AUTO FOCUS: This setting is key. Since we are shooting with a wide-open aperture our depth of field will be very limited (shallow). With longer lenses this is much more critical then with shorter lenses but the thing to remember that wildlife is ALWAYS moving. They just never sit still,no matter how hard we wish! So with that, using AI Servo (or Continuous Focus for Nikon) ensures us that we will have focus on our subject. If your subject moves just a few inches toward or away from you and use One Shot (or Single Shot on Nikon) your subject will be out of focus since from the time you press the shutter halfway to lock exposure and focus then fully depress the shutter to take the photo that slight delay may be all that is needed to have an out of focus image. By “tracking” your subject you avoid this and your success rate will GREATLY increase. Only when my subject is standing still or not moving will I change my auto focus to not track (One Shot) when composing my image. !5 WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY LESSON 3 Butterfly While taking a walk in a local park I came across this beautiful butterfly as he was going from flower to flower enjoying the nectar. I used my 400mm lens but I also put on an extension tube to turn my lens into a super macro lens since with a regular macro lens I would have had to been real close and butterflies typically will fly away. f/6.3 | ISO 400 | 1/800s DRIVE: The moment between a good photograph and a great photograph can literally be a split second. More often then not it’s when you are not pressing the shutter button does it happen but you can avoid that by shooting in continuous mode. The purpose here is really quite simple for if you shoot a series of 3, 4 or more images in a split second you can greatly increase your chances of getting “the shot”. Each and every wildlife photograph I take is one of at least 3 since now I have the luxury of picking out the “best” shot of the series and thanks to digital I can simply toss the others. !6 WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY LESSON 3 FOCUS POINT: If my subject is moving or flying I use my center point exclusively to track its movement. No matter how many focus points your camera may have the center point is the most sensitive for locking exposure and focus. It also makes it easier to track your subject since all you need to do is keep your subject in the middle of the frame. Only when my subject is standing still or not moving will I change my focus point when composing my image. METERING: Today’s digital camera does an amazing job about 90% of the time when it comes to properly exposing my image. So much research and engineering has gone into the computer inside your camera to give the photographer a great exposure very rarely will I use any other setting for metering other then evaluative which means the camera will expose the subject using the entire frame of view. While there are also other modes such as partial, center-weight and spot metering, using evaluative works in just about every situation I have ever come across. !7 WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY LESSON 3 Male Tiger Even if you can’t make your way to exotic locations your local zoo is a great place to capture some amazing images that if you take the time to plan them out can look as if you were there. In this photo I paid careful attention to my background as I wanted to make sure that there was nothing to indicate that this was a captive animal and after some exploration. I found this angle which gave me just what I was looking for and the rock gives it a real nice natural balance. f/6.3 | ISO 400 | 1/200s WHITE BALANCE: When most users get their first digital camera or SLR they notice that they can change the white balance to just about every type of light known to man. From Average White Balance (AWB), to Shade, Cloudy, Sunny, Tungsten, Florescent, Flash, Custom and possibly others most will try to adjust to what they feel is !8 WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY LESSON 3 the correct setting. Since shooting wildlife means you will be outdoors I set my camera to Cloudy and forget it. By doing so it will add a pleasant “warming” to my images since on most cameras the cloudy setting is around 5700 Kelvin. For my money Average White Balance (AWB) is too cool and doesn’t have the “pop” as cloudy does. QUALITY: It is difficult to describe the extent of the differences between RAW or JPEG, but if you imagine them in terms of elasticity for instance it is easier to understand. There is only so much "pushing and pulling" you can do to a JPEG image before you start to lose the quality of the final image.