Cahors Southwest France FRED MINNICK

Home , Caillac, Floressas, Lot (river), Prayssac, Soturac

Malbec’s true home is in this ancient appellation.

Fred Minnick is an inter- There it stands, its 125-year-old roots firmly, as their flagship grape, Malbec (known locally as national writer and pho- deeply planted in the earth of Cahors. A monu- Auxerrois or Cot), has become an international tographer who regularly ment to vintners of yore, this rare Malbec vine sensation for Argentina. covers the hospitality produced grapes even when its neighboring Some 80% of Cahors production is sold industry. View his work plants withered away during the devastating in France; in the past few years, vintners have at FredWrite.com. frost of 1956. Today, its thick and powerful trunk started selling boxed wine to locals, apparently stands out amid the rows of 40-to-60-year-old in acknowledgment of their reputation for sim- vines at Clos Triguedina. ple, value-priced potables. But like Clos Trigue- A beautiful vine, perhaps, but emblematic dina’s old vine—which grows only six to eight Valentré Bridge (top); of its appellation. Most people would walk right bunches of grapes a year—Cahors wines de- Clos Triguedina Malbec past it and never give serve closer scrutiny. Producers here are shed- vine (below). a thought to its his- ding their stereotypical shackles and overcom- tory or the battles it ing market challenges to create well-structured, has won over Mother Malbec-based wines ranging in style from fruity Nature and human to intense and complex. authority. Cahors is Few European cities can match Cahors’s indeed the forgot- medieval charm. Situated on a rocky peninsula ten terroir of France, surrounded by the Lot River, the region is filled even though it’s only with historical reminders of its former occu- 25 miles west of Bor- pants, the Visigoths and Romans. The Valentré deaux. Its winemakers Bridge, built in the 14th century, links modern- struggle to find Amer- day drivers to their ancestors who crossed the

ican importers, even river on the same span. Photos by Patrick Boillaud Fred (top), Minnick (bottom)

56 January 31, 2011 Appellation But the most in- teresting aspect of this area’s wine history in- volves King Henry III of England. In 1225, he ordered Bordeaux authorities not to im- pose taxes on or hin- der the production of the “Black Wine of Ca- hors,” so named for its impenetrable color. Af- ter the Hundred Years’ War, the wines fell out of favor in Engand, but they remained popular in France and Russia. From 1866 to 1878, phylloxera wiped out Cahors’s 143,000 acres of vines. In 1947, how- ever, local winegrow- ers established the Parnac cooperative, Cahors vineyards (above); Jean-Luc Baldès, owner hoping to restore the prestige of Malbec. Then times the Atlantic dominates it,” says Baldès. and winemaker of Clos the 1956 frost destroyed 99% of their vines. “Sometimes it will be the hot, dry Mediterra- Triguedina (bottom). Producers continued to make the best wines nean climate. It changes from year to year, but they could with what little they had. And when that’s what makes us different than Bordeaux.” Clos Triguedina, the oldest continuously family- The region receives about 2.5 inches less rain- owned vineyard in France (founded in 1830), fall a year than Bordeaux, but the east-to-west won the 1971 gold medal at the Salon des Vign- Lot River moderates temperatures and delivers erons Indépendants in Paris, Cahors was back the water needed by the vines. A towering lime- on the map. “My father Jean showed people we stone plateau provides ample drainage for its could make good wine,” says Jean-Luc Baldès, upper vineyards. the current owner and winemaker. AOC regulations designated nine terraces, After the gold medal, Cahors was recog- with two-thirds of the Cahors vineyards located nized as an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée. on ter races one, t wo, t hree, and four. The AOC now comprises 11,366 acres, includ- These so-called Lot River terraces ing the communes of Vire-sur-Lot, Soturac, and consist of alluvial deposits from Prayssac. AOC-labeled wines must contain at the Massif Central, with limestone least 70% Malbec, with Merlot and Tannat also subsoils, quartz stones, smooth allowed; this is the only southwestern French pebbles, and limestone gravel. They AOC that prohibits the use of Cabernet Franc are close enough to the river to re- and Cabernet Sauvignon. ceive ample water, but not so close In fact, Cahors winemakers do not want to that drainage is compromised. The be like either Bordeaux or Argentina. They be- region’s top wines tend to come lieve their own Malbec can make intense, com- from terraces three and four, where plex wines bursting with fruit and framed by vineyards are owned by Château dense tannins. “Cahors’s identity is its terroir,” de Chambert, Château de Gaudou, Baldès believes. “France tends to have two sea- Château du Cèdre, Château Lagré- sons—spring and fall do not exist. It’s a lot drier zette, and Clos Triguedina. and hotter here, which is great for the Malbec Most producers’ blocks are grape.” Equidistant from the Atlantic Ocean, scattered around the AOC. Baldès the Mediterranean Sea, and the Pyrenees, Ca- grows vines on all four Lot River ter-

Photos by Patrick Boillaud Fred (top), Minnick (bottom) hors’s climate is influenced by all three. “Some- races, making Clos Triguedina one

Sommelier Journal 57 outstanding recent releases

The 2009 releases had not yet been bottled at the time of my visit, but I tasted many samples from barrel. While Bordeaux is trumpeting its great 2009 vintage, Cahors is receiving little attention for what could well be the appellation’s great- est vintage in history. Château de Chambert Grand Vin 2007 $40 100% Malbec. Produced from a certified Biodynamic vineyard at the highest part of the plateau, 1,000 feet in elevation, this fresh wine has a bright purple color. Elegant tannins round out a pleasant finish. Château de Gaudou Renaissance 2006 $26 100% Malbec. Mechanical harvesting and traditional vinifica- tion were used to create this deep-garnet-colored wine. An intense nose of black fruits and spices sets up a chewy, tannic Malbec that should age well for some time. Château du Cèdre Le Cèdre 2007 $19 100% Malbec. This expressive wine offers black fruits, profound spices, and velvety tannins. Château Haut-Monplaisir Pur Plaisir 2007 $17 100% Malbec. A dark-red color leads to aromas of blackcurrant and smoky minerals. The bold palate presents flavors of cherry, blackcurrant, and chocolate. Intriguingly earthy, with a crisp, dry finish. Château Vincens Prestige 2005 $12 80% Malbec, 20% Merlot. These Guyot-trained grapes were mechanically picked and hand-sorted. Deep red in color, the wine has a nose full of juicy berries with notes of vanilla and spice. The silky palate is set off by well-rounded tannins. Perhaps the best value in the region. Clos Triguedina Probus 2007 $30 100% Malbec. Grapes were hand-picked and -sorted. The color is violet, nearly black. A slightly oaky nose shows a touch of cranberry. The palate features concentrated blackcurrant with hints of plum, but the wine’s most impressive aspect is its smooth, long, complex finish. Clos Triguedina The New Black Wine 2007 $60 100% Malbec. After being hand-picked and -sorted, the grapes are heated to further concentrate the sugars. The color of this limited-production bottling is unmistakably black; the nose displays dried fruit and licorice. Possibly the most complex Château de Chambert estate and vineyard (top) and proprietor Philippe Lejeune (middle); Philippe and Michel Vincens of Château Vincens (above). wine made in Cahors, it’s not jammy, but jam-packed with intense dark fruit, well-structured tannins, and vibrant acidity. of the few wineries that can bottle Malbec, Merlot, Tannat, Chardonnay, and Chenin Blanc. He has planted the white grapes at higher altitudes, for Le Bout du Lieu Orbe Noir 2006 $12 the southern exposure and drainage, and his prized Malbec in plots where 100% Malbec. A profound garnet color is followed by expressive black fruit with notes of vanilla and woody tannins. it can receive the most sunlight. “Being so well located gives us an advan- tage because we can taste the various levels of the soil,” says Baldès. Mas del Périé Les Escures 2008 $16 The vineyards on the limestone plateau have an average elevation of 100% Malbec. The ’08, from an organically grown vineyard, 900 feet and are less fertile than those in the Lot River valley. Winemak- has a deep ruby color that could easily be taken for black. ers here have beautiful views of Cahors and the French countryside, but Intense black fruit on the nose transitions to a powerful, gritty mouthfeel with hints of blackberry, chocolate, and black need to be more careful with their viticulture. “We try to pick plateau pepper. grapes as late as possible to get as much maturity,” reports Philippe Vin- Prices are current estimated retail.

cens, owner of Château Vincens. “In the plateau, with the clay soil, wind, Photos courtesy Château of de Chambert middle); (top, photo by Fred Minnick (bottom)

58 January 31, 2011 appellation

cold nights, and warm days, the grapes don’t ventured off to other lands and in- mature as fast. This doesn’t mean the grapes dustries before returning to their are not good; they just require more attention, family estates. For example, Vin- and we have to wait two or three weeks later cens was a financial executive for Château Lagrézette (top center) and owner Alain Dominique Perrin (above); than we do in other terraces.” a French bank, but says, “I just Château du Cèdre vineyard (middle); Vincens, 29, is among a growing num- missed it and had to get back to the Clos Troteligotte proprietor Emmanuel ber of young Cahors winemakers—more than vineyard.” Rybinksi (bottom left) and vineyard (bottom right). three dozen under the age of 35—who refuse Lucien Dimani, 26, of Le Bout to let their vineyard locations detract from the du Lieu winery, has stayed in the quality of their wine. “Terroir is not just about United States for now. the soil and climate; it’s about the people,” says Armed with degrees Vincens. These tradition-breaking producers in viticulture and enol- might provide just the injection of energy the ogy from the presti- appellation needs to achieve a stronger interna- gious Institut Rural de tional presence. Vayres and a lifetime Château Haut-Monplaisir is owned and op- of experience, Dimani erated by Cathy and Daniel Fournié, both 30. was a hot commodity The Fourniés hand-pull their weeds, grow vines for any American win- within grass verges, and prune their canopies ery; he currently works for optimal sun exposure. What makes their at Afton Mountain wines unique, though, is their long fermenta- Vineyards in Virgin- tion in barrels. ia. Dimani says he’ll While Clos Tro- teligotte sticks to traditional winemaking techniques, 26-year- old Emmanuel Ry- binksi uses social networking, blogging, and e-commerce to sell his wine. Taking a page from the Ameri- can marketing play- book, Rybinksi blogs about the minutiae of pruning, pressing, and blending. “Consumers love that,” he finds. Many of these

Photo byPhoto Marc Dantan (top right) young vintners have

Sommelier Journal 59 key producers Château de 46700 Lacapelle Cabanac Eye Imports Chambert +33-565-246478 www.eagleeyeimports.com Importer: Vintage Les Hauts-Coteaux Clos Troteligotte 46700 Floressas 59 Imports Le Cap Blanc +33-565-319575 www.vintage59.com 46090 Villesèque www.chambert.com Château Lagrézette +33-674-819226 Importer: Monsieur 46140 Caillac www.clostroteligotte.com Touton Selection, Ltd. +33-565-200742 Importer: Old World New York www.chateau-lagrezette.tm.fr Wines, Inc. Château de Gaudou Importer: Frederick www.oldworldwinesinc.com Wildman & Sons, Ltd. 46700 Vire-sur-Lot Le Bout du Lieu +33-565-365293 www.frederickwildman.com 46140 St. Vincent www.chateaudegaudou.com Château Vincens Rive d’Olt Importer: Vinotas Foussal +33-565-307080 Selections 46140 Luzech www.domaineleboutdulieu. www.vinotasimports.com +33-565-305155 com Château du Cèdre www.chateauvincens.fr Not yet imported Bru Importer: Metrowine Distribution Mas del Périé 46700 Vire-sur-Lot Le Bourg +33-565-365387 www.metrowine.com 46090 Trespoux Rassiels committed to making his vineyard 100% biody- www.chateauducedre.com Clos Triguedina +33-565-301807 Importer: Martine’s namic; the 2012 vintage will be the first to be Les Poujols Importer: Wine Wines, Inc. produced with 100% organic grapes. Mas del 46700 Vire-sur-Lot Traditions, Ltd. www.martineswines.com +33-565-213081 Falls Church, Va. Périé won a silver medal in 2009 at the Paris Concours Général Agricole and became the Château Haut- www.jlbaldes.com Importer: Eagle crowd favorite at the 2010 International Malbec Monplaisir Days in Cahors. Their fathers may have been content with eventually return to Cahors, but is still inspired selling to the locals, but the younger genera- from afar by the Cahors youth movement. tion wants its wines in American restaurants. The rock star of that movement is 25-year- In 2009, many Cahors winemakers visited the old Fabien Jouves, who launched his Mas del East Coast on a marketing tour. When Vincens asked a Boston wine retailer where he would Fabien Jouves, founder of Périé in 2004. Jouves has adopted a Burgundian Mas del Périé (top); Le approach, harvesting and fermenting separate display a Cahors Malbec in the store, the owner Bout du Lieu vineyards blocks according to their terroir. In 2009, he didn’t know whether to place it next to the Ar- (below) and soil (bottom gentine Malbec or in the French wine section. right). In a nutshell, that’s the challenge for Cahors today. “We have to find our new consumers and show them what we do,” says Vincens. “We are small producers. There’s room for everybody in the American system.” It looks like Amer- icans are beginning to take notice of this appellation’s youthful vigor and the com- plexities of its wines— Mas del Périé, Clos Troteligotte, and Châ- teau Vincens have all recently landed U.S. importers. Their marketing efforts may al-

ready be paying off. byPhoto Fred Minnick (bottom right)

60 January 31, 2011