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Health Risks of Synthetic Hair Dyes; Advantages of Natural Hair Dying Agents in Unani Medicine

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Health Risks of Synthetic Hair Dyes; Advantages of Natural Hair Dying Agents in Unani Medicine TRADITIONAL AND INTEGRATIVE MEDICINE StructureTraditional & Integrative Medicineand function of liver according to TPM A. Zarei et al. Trad Integr Med, Volume 4, Issue 1, Winter 2019 Review Health Risks of Synthetic Hair Dyes; Advantages of Natural Hair Dying Agents in Unani Medicine Shagufta Rehman*, Shariq A. Khan, Nida Sultana, Sarfaraz Ahmad Regional Research Institute of Unani Medicine, Aligarh, (Central Council for Research in Unani Medicine), Min- istry of AYUSH, Government of India, India Received: 2 Oct 2018 Revised: 10 Nov 2018 Accepted: 13 Nov 2018 Abstract Dying of hairs is customary cosmetic proceeding in all communities since immemorial time. There might be various reasons for hair coloring but the practice is very much alive in the so- ciety irrespective of creed and gender. The persons who are aesthetically sensitive give color to their hairs as per their choice. There are various synthetic substances which are being used for dying hairs in requisite tones and shades but the Paraphenylene diamine (PPD) is the usual ingredient, utilized in prepara- tion of these dyes. Studies revealed that use of these hair dyes related to allergic and respira- tory disorders and even cancer. Whereas, the classical Unani medicine suggest considerable number of substances with promising results and safety. In this paper an attempt is made to highlight the health risks of the synthetic dying agents and presents various natural substanc- es which are claimed to be safe and effective for toning and coloring of hairs according to Unani medicine. Keywords: Synthetic hair dyes; Paraphenylene diamine; Health risks, Natural substances Citation: Rehman S, Khan SA, Sultana N, Ahmad S. Health Risks of Synthetic Hair Dyes: Advantages of Natural Hair Dying Agents in Unani Medicine. Trad Integr Med 2019; 4(1): 37-46 Introduction has been prevailing in the society since Hair coloring is the practice of changing the immemorial time. The reason for coloring color of hairs. The practice of hair dying may be nature’s diversity but this practice *Corresponding Author: Shagufta Rehman Central Council for Research in Unani Medicine, Ministry of AYUSH, Government of India, India Email: [email protected] Traditional & Integrative Medicine 2019, Vol. 4, No. 1 37 http://jtim.tums.ac.ir Natural hair dyes in unani medicine S. Rehman et al. is alive in the global society irrespective of creed and gender. The first synthetic 1. black dye was invented by William Henry Perkin 2. darkest brown in 1856 [1]. However, there are various 3. dark brown synthetic substances being used for hair 4. brown dying in requisite tones and shades but the 5. light brown PPD (para phenylene diamine) is the usual 6. dark blonde chemical substance, utilized in preparation 7. blonde of these dyes. Systemic intoxication with 8. light blonde PPD commonly occurs via the oral and trans- 9. very light blonde dermal route [2]. 10. platinum Natural hair dyes are less toxic, less polluting, less health hazardous and non-carcinogenic Types of Hair colors [3]. There are four most common classifications Studies reveal that use of these hair dyes of hair colors [6] as related to various health hazards including allergic, respiratory disorders and even (i) Temporary hair colors cancer [4]. Temporary hair color is available in various The dying of hairs has been an interested forms including rinses, shampoos, gels, topic a topic of interest of Unani physicians sprays and foams. Temporary hair colors since the ancient time. The classical Unani are typically brighter and more vibrant then medicine is replete with various medicaments semi-permanent and permanent. to color the hairs in requisite tones and shades. The pigment molecules in temporary hair Unani physicians have prescribed various colors are large and cannot penetrate the herbomineral preparations to color the grey cuticle layer. Remaining colored particles hairs as well as to change shades and tones adsorb to the hair shaft and easily remove of the hairs as per the requirements. These with a single shampooing. It lasts for about a coloring agents are stated safe and effective. few hours to one day. [7,8] Therefore, the paper envisages the health risks produce by the synthetic dying agents (ii) Semi-permanent hair color and provide a safe alternative from the Semi-permanent hair color has smaller size of treatise of Unani system of medicine. molecules than temporary dyes therefore, is able to partially penetrate the hair shaft. That’s Natural hair color levels why the hair dye may last for 4-6 shampooing The following are the natural shades of the or a few weeks. Semi-permanents contain no hairs found in the human beings globally [5]. or very low levels of developers, peroxide or 38 Traditional & Integrative Medicine 2019, Vol. 4, No. 1 http://jtim.tums.ac.ir Natural hair dyes in unani medicine S. Rehman et al. ammonia. However, it may contain the toxic known to trigger allergic rashes in many people compound like P-phenylenediamine or other [10]. PPD also causes dermatitis, around lips, agents. [7,8] reddening and swelling of scalp and face etc [10]. The clinical features of hair dye (iii) Demi-permanent hair colors dermatitis vary from mild contact dermatitis Demi-permanent hair colors are permanent localized to one body site (hand dermatitis) hair colors that contain an alkaline agent other or disseminated generalized dermatitis to than Ammonia (e.g. Ethanolamine, sodium severe life threatening complications such carbonate) and while always employed as contact urticaria/angioedema, rhinitis/ with a developer, the concentration of bronchospasm/asthma, and renal toxicity. hydrogenperoxide in that developer may be [11] Hair dyes contains PPD at various lower than used with a permanent hair color. concentrations ranging from 0.2% to 3.75% [7,8,9] [2]. The European Commission Directive 2009 regulation directs that the maximum (iv) Permanent hair color concentration of hair dye substances in All permanent hair color products and oxidative hair dyes should not exceed 2% [7]. lighteners contain a developer or oxidizing PPD is a potent contact sensitizer even in agent, and on alkalizing agent (most often low concentration and considered a best Ammonia). indicator and useful patch test screening When the dye containing alkalizing agent is allergen for hair dye dermatitis [11]. The mixed with the developer, chemical reaction prevalence of positive patch test reactions occurs that swells the hair, permitting the to PPD among dermatitis patients is 4.4% dye to enter the cortex, where the melanin in Asia, 4.1% in Europe, 6.0% in North is located. The Ammonia swells the cuticle America, and 11.5% in India.11 People who of the hair to allow the color pigments to use synthetic dyes are exposed to greater penetrate deep into the hair shaft. risk of developing urinary bladder cancer Permanent colors are truly permanent and and non-Hodgkin lymphoma [10]. Lin and will not wash out, although these may fade. Soloder reported that PPD become mutagenic [7,8,9] only when it was oxidized. PPD is usually mixed with H2O2 for hair dyeing. Oxidized Adverse effect of synthetic hair colors PPD becomes a diaminophenazines, which on health are extremely mutagenic. The reported Hair coloring through synthetic chemical contamination of PPD with carcinogenic products can result in a range of adverse 4-aminobiphenyl, would put PPD as a high effects. p phenylenediamine (PPD) a key risk compound to humans for commercial ingredient of many synthetic hair dyes is use [12]. 2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine and Traditional & Integrative Medicine 2019, Vol. 4, No. 1 39 http://jtim.tums.ac.ir Natural hair dyes in unani medicine S. Rehman et al. 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine are currently classics of Unani Medicine banned in Europe and United states because The classics of Unani medicine have they have been tested exclusively and proved suggested various medicaments to color the that have high potential of carcinogenicity hairs. The colors have been described as [8]. Epidemiologic studies have suggested under – the existence of positive associations with myelodysplasia, multiple myeloma, i) To color the hairs as black leukemia and preleukemia, non-Hodgkin’s ii) To color the hairs as yellowish red lymphoma and Hodgkin’s disease [4]. A iii) To color the hairs as reddish black number of case-control studies and a meta- iv) To color the hairs as bluish black analysis have found links between personal v) To discolor the hairs as white or grey hair dye use and bladder cancer. Hair dye use has also been suggested as a risk factor The following applications have been advised for non Hodgkin lymphoma, leukemia, for coloring the hairs. multiple myeloma and myelodysplasia [13]. Avicenna describes the following formula- Rausher et al. concluded that longer duration tion [14] of permanent dye use appears to increase (i) Henna (Lawsonia inermis Linn.) the risk of adult acute leukemia. Rollison, [15,16,17,18] and Wasma (Indigofera et al. reported that there is an association tinctoria Linn.) [19,16,20,21] are used. between personal hair dye use and non- (ii) Henna, Wasma, Aab-e-Anar (juice of Pu- Hodgkin's lymphoma, multiple myeloma, nica granatum Linn.) [15,16,17] and Aab- acute leukemia, and bladder cancer in at least e-Sumaq (juice of Rhus coriaria Linn.) one well-designed study [12]. Two studies in [16,19] are used with Dahi (curd). a Japanese population reported associations (iii)Qaranfal (Syzygium aromaticum Linn.) between hair dye use and myelodysplastic [16,22] is added for more darken color. syndrome [13]. Hair dye poisoning results (iv)Shibb-e-yamani (Alum (Almunium hy- in laryngeal edema, rhabdomyolysis, severe droxide) [15,23] Namak-e-Shahme Han- metabolic acidosis and AKI. The reported zal (salt of Citrullus colocynthus Linn.) incidence of AKI following hair dye [16,17,24] and Mazoo (Quercus infecto- poisoning range from 47.4% to 90%, with ria Oliv.) [15,16,25,26] are used.
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