Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 381

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Josephine Quintero Josephine would like to extend a mighty grand Many thanks to the travellers who used the gracias to the numerous staff at the various last edition and wrote to us with helpful tourist offices. She would also like to thank hints, useful advice and interesting Robin Chapman for joining her in all that dining anecdotes: and wining research, as well as Jorge Guzman, Nancy Barker, Dianne & Virgil Bodeen, Rich- a valuable contact in Málaga along with all ard Dinkeldein, Laura Gravina, David Hutch- her Spanish malagueño friends who provided eson, Anne Jovaras, Bernard Jovaras, John endless advice and tips. Finally she would like Kearins, Tim Kuemmerle, Graham Newton, to thank Destination Editor Lorna Parkes and Juhana Rantavuori, Derek Sime, Gary Stocker, everyone else involved in the title at Lonely Jacques Tribier Planet. Brendan Sainsbury AUTHOR THANKS Thanks to all the untold bus drivers, chefs, Isabella Noble hotel receptionists, tour guides and flamenco A huge gracias to all the andaluces (and guiris) singers who helped me in this research. who helped me out on the road. A big thank you to Annie and Pepi in Vejer for fantastic foodie tips, to Antonio for the good times in Écija and to Tes- sa for being the ultimate Gibraltar insider. Special ACKNOWLEDGMENTS thanks to Papi and Jacky, my favourite research Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, assistants and roadtripping companions, and Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated to my fabulous co-authors. As always, thanks to World Map of the Köppen‑Geiger Climate Susan Forsyth, for starting the Tarifa trend. Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. John Noble Special thanks to Izzy for sharing the whole Illustrations pp52-3, 200-1 & 252-3 by Javier experience, to Tito for good conversation and Zarracina. a fascinating film, and to all the so-welcoming Cover photograph: Plaza de España, Parque de andaluces who helped me along the way. María Luisa, Seville, Alan Copson / AWL ©. 382

This guidebook was produced Stefanos, Ross Taylor, THIS BOOK by the following: Tracy Whitmey This 8th edition of Lonely Cartographers Destination Editors Planet’s Andalucía guidebook Piotr Czajkowski, Julie Dodkins Jo Cooke, Lorna Parkes was researched and written by Cover Researcher Product Editor BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Isabella Noble, John Noble, Jo- Naomi Parker Elizabeth Jones sephine Quintero and Brendan Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Sainsbury. The 7th edition was Senior Cartographer Daniel Corbett, Brendan written by Brendan Sainsbury, Anthony Phelan Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Anna Josephine Quintero and Daniel Book Designer Harris, Andi Jones, Kate Mathews, Claire Naylor, Karyn C Schechter, and the 6th Cam Ashley Noble, Darren O’Connell, was written by Anthony Ham, Assisting Editors Martine Power, Jessica Rose, Stuart Butler, Vesna Maric, Imogen Bannister, Kellie Diana Saengkham, Dianne John Noble and Zora O’Neill. Langdon, Bella Li, Charlotte Schallmeiner, Ellie Simpson, Orr, Victoria Smith, Gabrielle Angela Tinson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 383

Index

A animals rights 348 Cala de Enmedio 300 Playa San Pedro 300, 301 accommodation 358-60, Antequera 185-8 Cala de la Media Luna Playamar 171 see also individual apes 153, 335 300 Punta del Moral 87 locations Aracena 20, 93-5, 94 Calas del Barronal 300 Punta Paloma 143 language 373 archaeological sites El Palmar 141 Tarifa 143 activities 23-5, 36-40, 82, Acinipo 184-5 El Puerto de Santa María Zahara de los Atunes see also individual 128 Baelo Claudia 148 142, 15 activities & locations Flecha del Rompido 86 Casa del Obispo 109 beer 355-6 Agua Amarga 303 Isla Canela 87 Cueva de la Pileta 184 Belalcázar 217 air travel 367-8 Isla Cristina 86-7 Cueva de los Letreros 308 Benalmádena 170-2 airports 367-8 La Carihuela 171 Dolmen de Menga 186 Benaoján 184 Alájar 96-7 Los Caños de Meca 141 Dolmen de Viera 186 Bérchules 281 Alcalá la Real 226 Matalascañas 87 Dolmen del Romeral 186 bicycle travel, see cycling Alcaracejos 217 Mojácar Playa 303-4 Itálica 98 birds 336-7 Alcázar (Seville) 56-7, 59 Playa Burriana 193 Los Millares 296-7 birdwatching 38, 336-7 Alfarnate 190 Playa Calahonda 193 Madinat al-Zahra 205-6, Centro de Fauna Silvestre Alfarnatejo 190 327 Playa Central 86 Collado del Almendral Algeciras 149 Necrópolis Romana Playa Chica 143 240-1 Alhambra 9, 250-5, 328-9, 99, 101 Playa de la Caleta 112 Centro de Visitantes José 252-3, 254, 8-9, 252-3 Teatro Romano (Cádiz) 109 Playa de la Charca 282 Antonio Valverde 89 Almería 288-94, 290 Templo Romano Playa de la Gaviota 86 El Rocío 90, 91 accommodation 291 (Córdoba) 204-5 Playa de la Guardia 282 Gaucín 185 drinking & nightlife 293 architecture 21, 231, 325-31 Playa de la Malagueta 163 Gibraltar 154 entertainment 293 books 330 Playa de la Muralla 128 Laguna de Fuente de Piedra 189 festivals & events 291 Arcos de la Frontera 131-3, Playa de la Puntilla 128 Parque Natural Sierra de food 292-3 135, 132 Playa de la Rada 175 Andújar 226-7 history 288 Ardales 185 Playa de la Victoria 113 Peñón de Zaframagón 138 sights 288-9, 291 area codes 364 Playa de las Cortinas 141 Sierra Nevada 275 tapas 292 Arroyo Frío 240 Playa de los Genoveses boat travel 369 travel to/from 293-4 art galleries, see museums 300 bodegas travel within 294 & galleries Playa de los Lances 143 El Puerto de Santa María Almería province 46, 285- arts 15, 22, 51, 266, 344-7 Playa de Mónsul 300 127, 128 308, 286-7 ATMs 363 Playa de Pedregalejo 163 Jerez de la Frontera 120-1 accommodation 285 Ayamonte 87 Playa de San Cristóbal 283 Laujar de Andarax 297 car travel 285 Playa de Santa Catalina food 33, 285 Montilla 212 B 128 highlights 286-7 Playa de Valdelagrana 128 Sanlúcar de Barrameda Baelo Claudia 148 130 Almodóvar del Río 216 Playa de Valdevaqueros Baena 211 Bolonia 148 Almohads 327-8 143 Baeza 16, 227-31, 228, 16 books 310, see also Almonaster la Real 98 Playa del Barronal 300 Barbary apes 153, 335 literature Almoravids 327 Playa del Cañuelo 193 Baroque architecture 330-1 architecture 330 Playa del Faro 141 Almuñécar 283-4 Barranco de Poqueira 278 Playa del Playazo 300, food 353 bathrooms 365 301 history 316, 322 beaches 14, 21, 84 Playa el Palo 163 wine 353 Map Pages 000 Cabo de Gata 300, 13 Playa Fuentebravía 128 border crossings 150, Photo Pages 000 Cala Carbón 300 Playa Puerta del Mar 283 149, 368 384 Bubión 278 casa rurales 360 Castillo de Santiago 130 Catedral de la budget 19 Castaño del Robledo 97-8 Castillo de Segura 243 Encarnación 288-9 bullfighting 182, 321, castles & forts 42, see also Castillo de Vejer de la Catedral de la Sierra 217 348-50 palaces & mansions Frontera 139-40 Catedral de Málaga 157 bullrings 349 Alcazaba (Almería) 288 Castillo de Vélez Blanco Catedral de San Plaza de Toros (El Puerto Alcazaba (Antequera) 307 Salvador 119

INDEX INDEX de Santa María) 127 186 Castillo de Zuheros 212 Catedral de Sevilla 9, Plaza de Toros (Mijas) Alcazaba (Granada) 254 Castillo del Marqués de 50-6, 52-3, 9, 52-3 177 Alcazaba (Guadix) 271 los Vélez 307 Colegiata de Santa María Plaza de Toros (Ronda) Fortaleza de la Mota 226 de la Asunción 102 (B-C Alcazaba (Málaga 179 157, 160 Moorish Castle Colegiata de Santa María (Plaza de Toros de la Real Alcázar (Jerez de la (Gibraltar) 153 la Mayor (Antequera Maestranza 64 Frontera) 119 cathedrals, see churches & 186 bus travel 19, 368, 369-70 Alcázar (Seville) 56-7, 59 cathedrals Colegiata del Salvador 256 business hours 363 Alcázar de la Puerta de caves 42 butterflies 171 Sevilla 99 Barriada de las Cuevas Ermita de Nuestra Señora Reina de los Alcázar de los Reyes 271 Ángeles 96 Cristianos 202-3 Cueva de la Pileta 184 Ermita del Rocío 90 C Alhambra 9, 250-5, Cueva de los Letreros Cabo de Gata 13, 298-303, Iglesia de la Asunción 242 328-9, 252-3, 254, 308 299, 13 8-9, 252-3 Cueva de los Iglesia de la Aurora 214 Cabo de Trafalgar 141 Castillo Árabe Murciélagos 213 Iglesia de la Santa Cruz Cádiz 13, 109, 112-18, 320, (Constantina) 107 Cueva de Nerja 192 228 , 114-15 13 Castillo Árabe (Olvera) Cuevas de Sorbas 295 Iglesia de Nuestra accommodation 113 Señora de la O 129 138 Cuevas del Almanzora activities 112-13 Castillo Árabe 307 Iglesia de San Francisco 214 courses 113 (Salobreña) 282 Gruta de las drinking & nightlife 117 Castillo de Albánchez Maravillas 93 Iglesia de San Jorge 85 entertainment 117-18 232 Guadix 271 Iglesia de San Juan (Almería) 288 festivals & events 112 Castillo de Almodóvar Sacromonte 260 216 Iglesia de San Juan food 113, 116-17 St Michael’s Cave 153 Castillo de Aracena 93 (Écija) 104 internet resources 118 Cazalla de la Sierra 105, Iglesia de San Martín sights 109, 112 Castillo de Gibralfaro 107 160 (Almonaster la travel to/from 118 Cazorla 237-8 Real) 98 Castillo de Guzmán 143 travel within 118 cell phones 364 Iglesia de San Martín Castillo de Jimena 148 Cádiz province 45, 108-50, Centro Lorca 20, 270 (Niebla) 91 Castillo de la Calahorra 110-11 ceramics 236 Iglesia de San Mateo 143 272 accommodation 108 children, travel with 41-3 Iglesia de San Castillo de la Yedra 237 beaches 108 Costa del Sol 171 Pablo-Santo Domingo Castillo de las 104 car travel 108 Almadrabas 142 Seville 71 Iglesia de San Pedro 133 food 32 Castillo de los Duques Christian architecture 329- Iglesia de Santa Ana 256 highlights 110-11 132 31, see also churches & cathedrals Iglesia de Santa María Calle Sierpes 65 Castillo de los (Cazorla) 237 Caminito del Rey 20, 187 Guzmán 91 Christian art 345 Iglesia de Santa María camping grounds 359 Castillo de los churches & cathedrals 329-31 (Écija) 104 Cano, Alonso 330 Sotomayor 217 Iglesia de Santa María de Castillo de Basílica de La Macarena Capileira 278-9 Granada 91 Miramontes 217 68 Capilla Real 257 Iglesia de Santa María de Castillo de Priego de Basílica Menor de Santa car hire 370-1 la Alhambra 254 Córdoba 214 María de la Asunción car travel 19, 368, 370-1, 132-3 Iglesia de Santa María de see also driving tours Castillo de San Jorge 66 Basilica San Juan de los Reales language 377 Castillo de San Marcos Alcázares 234 125-6 Díos 259 Carmona 99-102, 100 Capilla de los Benavides Iglesia de Santa María de Castillo de San Miguel Mesa 136 Carnaval 23, 112 283 229 Carretera del Suspiro del Catedral de Baeza 227-8 Iglesia de Santa María La Castillo de San Mayor 179 Moro 277 Sebastián 112 Catedral de Cádiz 109 Iglesia del Carmen 187 Castillo de Santa Catedral de Granada 257 Iglesia del Divino Catalina (Cádiz) 112 Catedral de Guadix 271 Salvador 139 Map Pages 000 Castillo de Santa Catedral de la Asunción Iglesia Nuestra Señora Photo Pages 000 Catalina (Jaén) 222-3 222 de Gracia 271 385 Iglesia Parroquial Córdoba province 45, 195- E Feria de San Miguel 133 Nuestra Señora de la 218, 196-7 eagles 336 Feria del Caballo 24, Encarnación 138 accommodation 195 Écija 103-5 122, 24 Iglesia Prioral de Nuestra car travel 195 economy 310-11 Feria del Corpus Cristi Señora del Mayor food 32, 195 260-1 Dolor 93 El Altiplano 271-2 highlights 196-7 Festival de Jerez 23, 122 Iglesia Prioral de Santa El Burgo 183 Festival de la Guitarra de INDEX María de la Asunción 99 Costa de la Luz 14, 86-7, El Chorro 185, 187 139-50, Córdoba 206 Parroquia de la Asunción 15 El Fraile 301 Festival Internacional de 214 Costa del Sol 170-8 El Palmar 141 la Guitarra 25 Parroquia de Nuestra Costa Tropical 282-4 C-F El Pedroso 107 Festival Internacional del Señora de la O 67 courses El Pozo de los Frailes 302 Aire 242 Parroquia de Santa cooking 31, 69, 140 El Puerto de Santa María Festival Internacional Ana 67 flamenco 69 125-9, 126 de Música y Danza Parroquia Mayor de language 69, 113, 140, El Rinconcillo 266 (Granada) 261 Santa Cruz 104 361-2 El Rocío 90-2 Festival Internacional Parroquia del Divino credit cards 363 El Yelmo 242 de Música y Danza Salvador 65 Cueva de la Pileta 184 Ciudad de Úbeda 235 electricity 150, 360 Sacra Capilla de El Cueva de los Letreros 308 Festividad Virgen del Embalse del Conde del Salvador 232 Carmen 127 Cueva de Nerja 192 Guadalhorce 185 Santa Iglesia Catedral de Cuevas de Sorbas 295 Fiesta de los Patios de Córdoba 202 Embalse del Tranco 240 Cuevas del Almanzora Córdoba 24-5, 206 Santuario de la Virgen de emergencies 19 307 Fiesta Mayor de la Cabeza 226 language 375 currency 18, 150 Verdiales 25, 163 Santuario de Nuestra Estepona 175-7 Fiestas Colombinas 82 Señora de la Cinta 82 customs regulations 360 events, see festivals & Fiestas de Otoño 25 Seville cathedral 9, 50-6, cycling 37, 369, see also events vías verdes Jazz en la Costa 283 52-3, 9, 52-3 exchange rates 19 (greenways) Moros y Cristianos 304 churros 31 Moto GP 24 cinema 347, see also films F Motorcycle Grand Civil War 321-2 D Feria de Abril 23, 70, Prix 122 dance 338-43, see also 2 climate 18, 23-5 Noche de San Juan flamenco Feria del Caballo 24, 122, 24 coffee 356 193, 304 debit cards 363 Fernández, Alejo 51 cold soups 354 Noche del Vino 190 del Amo, Tito 305, 306 ferry travel 369 Colón, Cristóbal, see Real Feria de Agosto 187 Desfiladero de Festival de Jerez 23, 122 Columbus, Christopher Romería de la Virgen de Despeñaperros 225-6 festivals & events 23-5 Columbus, Christopher la Cabeza 226 50-1, 84, 85, 319 Desierto de Tabernas Bienal de Flamenco 25, 70 Romería del Rocío 24, Comares 190 294-5 90, 130 Bluescazorla 238 Cómpeta 190-1 disabilities, travellers Semana Santa Concurso de Cante Jondo with 365 Carnaval 23, 112 (Antequera) 187 342 discount cards 360 Carreras de Caballos 130 Semana Santa Constantina 107 diving 37-8 Corpus Christi 25, 181 (Arcos de la Frontera) convents Cabo de Gata 300-1 Cruces de Mayo 206 133 Convento de San La Herradura 284 Día de la Cruz 261 Semana Santa Francisco 254 Nerja 193 Día de los Reyes Magos (Baeza) 229 23 Convento de Santa Clara Tarifa 143 Semana Santa (Córdoba) 206 (Carmona) 99 Dolmen de Menga 186 Feria de Abril 23, 70, 2 Córdoba 198-211, 204 Feria de Baeza 229 Semana Santa Dolmen de Viera 186 (Granada) 260 accommodation 207-8 Feria de Fuengirola 173 Dolmen del Romeral 186 Semana Santa (Jaén) drinking 209 Feria de la Manzanilla 130 dolphin-watching 145, 154 224 entertainment 209 Feria de la Tapa 25 drinks 354-6 Semana Santa (Málaga) festivals & events 206 Feria de la Virgen de la language 374-5 163 Luz 145 food 208-9 Semana Santa (Seville) driving licences 370 Feria de Málaga 25, history 198 17, 23, 69-70, 17, 24 driving tours, see also car 163-4 patios 202 Semana Santa (Úbeda) travel Feria de Mayo 206 shopping 209 235 Sierra Norte de Sevilla Feria de Pedro Romero sights 198-206 Velada de Nuestra 106, 106 25, 181 tourist information 210 Señora de la Oliva 140 white towns 134, 134 Feria de Primavera Virgen del Carmen 193 travel to/from 210 Duque de Medina Sidonia y Fiestas del Vino travel within 210-11 323 Fino 127 films 310, see also cinema 386 flamenco 12, 62-3, 338-43, Gaucín 185 Hammam Andalusí Sendero Botánico 216 12, 62-3 gay travellers 360-1 (Jerez de la Frontera) Sendero Cerro del Cinto 122 Almería 293 gazpacho 354, 35 302 Hammam de Al Andalus Cádiz 117, 341 Generación de ’27 346 Sendero Charco de la (Granada) 260, 244 Boca 89 Córdoba 203-4 Generación de ’98 346 hang-gliding 39-40 Sendero de Ermitas y courses 69 geography 332

INDEX INDEX health 361 Monasterios 237 El Puerto de Santa Gibraltar 45, 108, 150-5, Hedionda sulphur baths Sendero de Gran María 128 151, 152 176 Recorrido 7 (GR7) festivals 70, 340 accommodation 154 hiking 21, 36-7 146, 275 F-H Granada 268 activities 153-4 Sendero de Los Jerez de la Frontera 119, Alájar-Castaño del food 154-5 Ángeles 216 124, 341 Robledo 96 history 151 Sendero del Acantilado Lebrija 341 Aracena 93 shopping 155 141-2 Málaga 169 Cabo de Gata 301 sights 151-3 Sendero del Aguadero Morón de la Frontera 341 Cahorros Altos 273 travel to/from 155 297 museums 64, 160, 203-4 Caminito del Rey 187 travel within 155 Sendero del Arroyo de Seville 48, 76-7, 341 Camino de los las Cañas 107 Giralda (Seville) 56 Charcones 137 Utrera 341 Sendero del Gilillo 237 Golden Century art 345-6 Cañón de Bailón 213 Vejer de la Frontera 141 Sendero del Guaitenejo Góngora, Luís de 346 Castaño del flamingos 337 185 GR7 (Sendero de Gran Robledo-Galaroza Sendero del Pinsapar Flecha del Rompido 86 Recorrido 7) footpath Loop 97 137 food 21, 41-2, 165, 351-5, 146, 275 Cerro de San Cristóbal Sendero Gerald Brenan 361, 35, see also GR240 footpath 275 98 281 individual locations GR247 footpath 20, 241 El Calvario-Corazón de Sendero Guadalora books 353 Jesús 135 Granada 247, 250-70, 254, 216-17 churros 31 El Torreón 138 258-9, 262-3, 5 Sendero Lagunas del cooking courses 31, accommodation 261-3 Garganta Verde 136, 137 Acebuche 89 69, 140 activities 260 GR7 146, 275 Sendero Los Castañares gazpacho 354, 35 drinking & nightlife GR240 275 107 internet resources 354 267-8 GR247 20, 241 Sendero Río Borosa 241 jamón (ham) 280, 352-3 entertainment 268 Las Alpujarras 275 Sendero Río language 374-5 festivals & events 260-1 Las Laderas-Camino Hozgarganta 148-50 olive oil 211, 230, 294, food 263-7 Viejo Loop 105 Sendero Río Verde 277 353-4 history 247 Linares de la Sierra 93 Sendero Salto del seafood 351 shopping 269 maps 362-3 Cabrero 137 tapas 13, 34, 168, 265, sights 250-60 Mediterranean Steps Sendero Subida al 292, 352, 13 street art 256 (Gibraltar) 153 Picacho 148 tomatoes 296 tapas 265 Mijas 177 Sendero Umbría de la forts, see castles & forts Virgen 307 teterías (teahouses) Mulhacén 273, 275 fountains 267 Paraje Natural Torcal de Sierra de Grazalema 137-8 Fuente de los Leones 227 tourist information 269 Antequera 189 Sierra Nevada 273, 275 Fuente del Rey 214 tours 260 Parque Nacional de Doñana 89 Sulayr 275 Fuente Pública 304 travel to/from 269-70 Parque Natural de la Trevélez 280 Franco, General Francisco travel within 270 322-3 Breña y Marismas del Veleta 273, 275 Granada province 46, 246- Frigiliana 191 Barbate 141-2 Vía Verde de la Sierra 84, 248-9 Fuengirola 172-3 Parque Natural Los 138 flamenco 246 Alcornocales 148, Vía Verde de la Sierra food 32, 246 149-50 Norte 105 G highlights 248-9 Parque Natural Sierra de Vía Verde de la Game of Thrones filming travel seasons 246 Hornachuelos 216-17 Subbética 213 locations Grazalema 135-6 Parque Natural Sierra de Vía Verde del Aceite Alcázar 56-7, 59 Greek settlement 313 las Nieves 183 223-4 Osuna 103 Guadix 271-2 Parque Natural Sierra de hilltop towns 22 María-Los Vélez 307 gardens, see parks & history 312-24 gardens Parque Natural Sierra books 316, 322 H Norte de Sevilla 105 Islamic Spain 314-18 hammams 244-5, 245 Parque Natural Sierras prehistoric Andalucía Aire Baños Árabes 61, 64 de Cazorla, Segura y Map Pages 000 312-13 Hammam Al-Andalus Las Villas 240 Photo Pages 000 Reconquista 317-19 (Málaga) 163 Raya Real 89 387 Spanish Civil War 321-2 entertainment 124, 125 entertainment 169 mosques 326-7 Spanish Inquisition 319 festivals & events 122 festivals & events 163-4 Alcázar (Jerez de la traders & invaders food 122-4 food 164-7 Frontera) 119 313-14 sights 119-21 history 157 Mezquita (Almonaster la holidays 364 travel to/from 125 shopping 169 Real) 98, 326 Hornos 242 travel within 125 sights 157, 160-1, 163 Mezquita (Córdoba) 10,

20, 198-202, 326-7, INDEX horse riding 38-9, 2 Jewish culture 316, 317 travel to/from 169-70 200-1, 11, 200-1 Aracena 93 Jimena de la Frontera travel within 170 motorcycle travel 368, 370-1 Cómpeta 190 148-50 Málaga province 45, 156- mouflon 335 Lanjarón 275 Jiménez, Juan Ramón 86 94, 158-9 H-M Mozarabies 329 Parque Nacional de accommodation 156

Mudéjars 329 Doñana 89 car travel 156 Tarifa 143 K Muelle de las Carabelas 84 kitesurfing 16, 39, 144-5, food 32, 156 horses 121, 122 Mulhacén 273, 275 17, 39 highlights 158-9 hostales 358-9 Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban mansions, see palaces & 51 hostels 358-9 mansions Museo Picasso Málaga 15, Huelva 82-4, L maps 362-3 83 157, 160, 15 La Axarquía 189-91 Marbella 173-5 Huelva province 44, 79, museums & galleries 42 82-98, 80-1 La Herradura 283-4 markets Archivo de Indias 61 accommodation 79 La Isleta del Moro 302 Almería 288, 293 La Pepa 320 Archivo-Museo San Juan activities 82 Córdoba 205 de Dios 256 La Rábida 84 car travel 79 Málaga 161 Baños Arabes 181 La Tahá 279-80 food 31-2, 79 Tarifa 143 Carmen Museo Max highlights 80-1 La Vega 271-2 Matalascañas 87 Moreau 256-7 internet resources 82 Laguna de Fuente de measures 362 Casa Alpujarreña 278 Piedra 189 Mecina Bombarón 281 Casa de Pilatos 65 language courses 69, 113, Mezquita (Córdoba) 10, 20, Casa de Sefarad 203 I 140, 361-2 198-202, 326-7, , Iberian lynx 226, 311, 335, 200-1 Casa del Obispo 109 languages 18, 373-80 11, 200-1 335-6, 14 Casa Museo Arte Lanjarón 275-6 Mijas 177-8 ibex 335 Andalusí 234 Las Alpujarras 12, 272-3, Minas de Riotinto 92-3 immigration 367 Casa Museo de Mijas 177 275-82, 296-8, 274 mining 92-3, 302 insurance 361, 371 Casa Museo Manuel de Laujar de Andarax 297-8 mobile phones 364 Falla 255 internet access 361 legal matters 362 Moguer 85-6 Casa Museo Martín internet resources 19 lesbian travellers 360-1 Alonso Pinzón 85 Isla Cristina 86-7 Mojácar 303-6, 305 Linares de la Sierra 95-6 Molina, Antonio Muñoz 347 Casa Museo Pedro Islamic architecture 325-9, literature 266, 270, 346-7 Antonio de Alarcón 278 see also castles & forts; monasteries Casa Museo Zenobia y mosques; palaces & Lorca, Federico Garcia 266, Conjunto Monumental Juan Ramón Jiménez mansions 270, 346, 347 de la Cartuja 68 86 Islamic culture 314-18, Los Cahorros 273 Iglesía y Monasterio de Centre Pompidou Málaga 344-5 Los Caños de Meca 141-2 Santiago 271 20, 160-1 Itálica 98 Los Escullos 301 Monasterio de la Centro Andaluz de la Los Pedroches 217 Encarnación 102 itineraries 26-9, see Fotografía 289, 291 also driving tours Monasterio de la Rábida Los Tresmiles 273, 275 Centro Cerámica Triana 84 Los Vélez 307-8 66 Monasterio de Lugares Colombinos 84-6 Centro de Arte J Montesión 237 lynx 226, 311, 335, 335-6, Contemporáneo de Jaén 222-5, 223 Monasterio de San 14 Málaga 161 Jaén province 46, 219-43, Isidoro del Campo Centro de Arte 220-1 98-9 Contemporáneo de accommodation 219 M Monasterio de San Mijas 177 car travel 219, 232 Jerónimo 259-60, macaques 153, 335 22 Centro de Interpretación food 32, 219 Madinat al-Zahra 205- Monasterio de Santa Cuevas de Guadix 271 Clara 85 highlights 220-1 6, 327 Centro de Interpretación jamón (ham) 280, 352-3 Mairena 281-2 O Sel Ling 277 Judería de Sevilla 61 Jerez de la Frontera 119-25, Málaga 15, 157, 160-70, money 18, 19, 150, 360, Centro de Interpretación 120-1 162, 166-7, 15 363 Olivar y Aceite 20 accommodation 122 accommodation 164 Montilla wines 212 Centro de la activities 121-2 activities 163 Morocco, travel to/from Interpretación 149, 368, 369 drinking & nightlife 124-5 drinking & nightlife 167-8 Mudéjar 69 388 museums & galleries Museo de Arte Flamenco Palacio de la Condesa de Parque Natural Sierras continued 160 Lebrija 65 Subbéticas 211-16 Centro Flamenco Museo de Artes y Palacio de los Olvidados Upper Rock Nature Fosforito 203-4 Costumbres Populares 20, 256 Reserve 153 Centro José Guerrero (Jaén) 222 Palacio de Viana 205 nature reserves, see 257 Museo de Artes y Plaza de Toros de la Real national parks & nature Costumbres Populares reserves; parks &

INDEX INDEX Centro Lorca 270 Maestranza 64 Centro Velázquez 61 (Seville) 67 Torre de la Calahorra gardens Colección Arte Garó 175 Museo de Artesanía 203 Necrópolis Romana 99, 101 Textil 135 Conjunto Monumental Torre del Oro 64 Nelson, Horatio Lord 152 M-P de la Cartuja 68 Museo de Bellas Artes Nerja 191-4, 192 (Granada) 254 Cueva Museo 307 newspapers 362 Museo de Bellas Artes N Niebla 91 El Pabellon de la (Seville) 64-5 Nacimiento del Navegación 68 Níjar 295-6 Museo de Cádiz 112 Guadalquivir 240 Fundación Rafael Alberti Nasrids 328-9 126 Museo de Huelva 82 national parks & nature Fundación Rodríguez- Museo de Málaga 160 O Museo de Nerja 192-3 reserves 332-4, see Ohanes 297 Acosta 255 also parks & gardens Gibraltar Museum 152 Museo de Osuna 102 olive oil 211, 230, 294, Centro de Fauna 353-4 Hospital de la Museo de Ronda 179 Silvestre Collado del Olvera 138-9, Caridad 64 Museo de la Alhambra Almendral 240-1 22 Omayyads 326 Hospital de los 254 Paraje Natural Torcal de Venerables Museo de la Ciudad de Antequera 188-9, 334 opening hours 363 Sacerdotes 61 Carmona 99 Parque Dunar 87 Órgiva 276 Huerta de San Vicente Museo de la Ciudad de Parque Nacional de Osuna 102-3 270 Antequera 186 Doñana 14, 87-90, 130, outdoor activities La Casa de los Volcanes Museo de la Guitarra 332-3 23-5, 36-40, 82, see 302 289 Parque Nacional Sierra also individual La Cilla 138 Museo de las Cortes de Nevada 273-5, 333 activities & locations Metropol Parasol 65 Cádiz 112 Parque Natural de Cabo Military Heritage Centre Museo de San Juan de la de Gata-Níjar 298-303, 153 Cruz 234 P 333, 299, 13 palaces & mansions, see Museo del Baile Museo Antiquarium 65 Parque Natural de also castles & forts Flamenco 64 Museo Arqueológico Despeñaperros Alcazaba (Almería) 288 (Almuñécar) 283 Museo del Bandolero 225-6 179, 181 Alcazaba (Málaga) Museo Arqueológico Parque Natural de 157, 160 (Córdoba) 204 Museo del Carnaval 86 Doñana 88 Alcázar (Jerez de la Museo del Grabado Museo Arqueológico Parque Natural de la Frontera) 119 (Estepona) 175 Español 174 Breña y Marismas del Alcázar (Seville) 56-7, 59 Museo Arqueológico Museo del Jamón 93 Barbate 141-2 Alcázar de los Reyes (Jerez de la Frontera) Museo del Vidrio y Parque Natural Los Cristianos 202-3 119 Cristal 160 Alcornocales Alhambra 9, 250-5, Museo Arqueológico Museo Histórico 148-50, 333 328-9, , , (Seville) 67 (Salobreña) 282 Parque Natural Sierra de 252-3 254 8-9, 252-3 Museo Automovilístico Museo Histórico Andújar 226-7, 333 Málaga 161, 163 Municipal (Écija) 104 Parque Natural Sierra de Casa de Pilatos 65 Museo Batalla de las Museo Histórico Cardeña y Casa del Mayorazgo 139 Navas de Tolosa 226 Municipal (Priego de Montoro 217 Castillo de Zuheros 212 Museo Carmen Thyssen Córdoba) 215 Parque Natural Sierra de Palacio de Dar-al-Horra 160 Museo Internacional de Grazalema 137-8, 334 256 Museo Casa Natal Arte Naïf 222 Parque Natural Sierra de Palacio de Govantes y Federico García Lorca Museo Julio Romero de Hornachuelos 216-18 Herdara 102 270 Torres 204 Parque Natural Sierra de Palacio de Jabalquinto Museo Conventual de las Museo Lara 179 las Nieves 183, 334 228 Descalzas 186 Museo Minero 92 Parque Natural Sierra de Palacio de la Condesa de María-Los Vélez 307 Museo Cuevas del Museo Naval 85 Lebrija 65 Parque Natural Sierra Sacromonte 260 Museo Picasso Málaga Palacio de los Cepeda Norte 334 102 Museo de Almería 289 15, 157, 160, 15 Parque Natural Sierra Palacio de los Duques de Museo Ralli 174-5 Norte de Sevilla 105-7 Medina Sidonia 129 Museo Ruso de Málaga Parque Natural Sierras Palacio de Los Map Pages 20, 161 000 de Cazorla, Segura y Marqueses de la Photo Pages 000 Museo Sefardi 255 las Villas 239-43, 334 Algaba 69 389 Palacio de Orleans y Parque Natural Sierras de travel to/from 184 highlights 49 Borbón 129 Cazorla, Segura y las travel within 184 history 50 Palacio de Peñaflor 104 Villas 239-43, 334 Ronda la Vieja 184-5 shopping 77 Palacio de Vázquez de Parque Natural Sierras Royal Andalucian School of sights 50-7, 59, 61, 64-9 Subbéticas 211-16 Molina 232 Equestrian Art 121 tourist information 77-8 passports 367 Palacio de Viana 205 tours 69

Peña de Arias Montano 96 INDEX Palacio de travel seasons 48 Villardompardo 222 Peña de Hierro 92 S travel to/from 78 Palacio del Deán Ortega peñas 63, 341 Sacromonte 260 travel within 78 232 Peñón de Zaframagón 138 safety 364 Seville cathedral 9, 50-6, P-T Palacio Marqués de la Phoenician settlement 313 Salinas de Cabo de Gata

52-3 ,9 ,52-3 299 Gomera 102 phonecards 364-5 Salobreña 282-3 sheep 335 Palacio Vela de los Picasso, Pablo 157, 347 Cobos 234 San José 300-2 sherry 10, 33, 130, 355, 11, planning Palos de la Frontera 84-5 San Miguel de Cabo de see also bodegas Andalucía basics 18-19 Pampaneira 277-8 Gata 299-300 festivals 127 Andalucía’s regions 44-6 paradores 359 Sanlúcar de Barrameda food pairings 33 budgeting 19 paragliding 39-40, 284 129-31 history 129 calendar of events 23-5 Paraje Natural Torcal de Santa Elena 225-6 Sherry Triangle 118-31 children, travel with 41-3 Antequera 188-9 Santa Eufemia 217 Sierra de Aracena 95-8, 96 parking 371 food 30-5 Santiponce 98-9 Sierra de Cazorla 239- internet resources 19 parks & gardens 328, see seafood 351 43, 239 also national parks & itineraries 26-9 Segura de la Sierra 242-3 Sierra Nevada 12, 272-5, nature reserves outdoor activities 36-40 Semana Santa 332, 274, 12 Alameda Botanic repeat visitors 20 Antequera 187 siesta 33 Gardens 152 travel seasons 18, 23-5 Arcos de la Frontera 133 Siglo de Oro (Golden Casa del Rey Moro 179 Plaza de San Francisco 65 Baeza 229 Century) 345-6 Jardín Botánico El poetry 270, 346-7 Córdoba 206 skiing 40, 273 Albardinal 302 police 362 Granada 260 snorkelling 37-8, 300-1 Jardín Botánico Umbría politics 310-11 Jaén 224 snowboarding 40, 273 de la Virgen 307 population 311 Málaga 163 Sorbas 295 Jardín Micológico ‘La Portugal, travel to/from 87 Seville 17, 23, 69-70, spaghetti westerns 294 Trufa’ 215 postal services 363 17, 24 Spanish Civil War 321-2 Orchidarium 175 pottery 236 Úbeda 235 Spanish fir 334 Parque Botánico El Pradollano 273 Sendero de Gran Recorrido spas, see hammams Majuelo 283 Priego de Córdoba 214-16 7 (GR7) 146, 275 storks 337 Parque de María Luisa public holidays 364 senior travellers 360 surfing 39, 141, 142 66-7 Serranía de Ronda 184-5 synagogues Paseo de España 161 Sevilla province 44, 79, Sinagoga de Córdoba 203 Parque de María Luisa R 98-107, 80-1 Sinagoga del Agua 234 66-7 radio 362 accommodation 79 Parque Nacional de Real Escuela Andaluza del activities 82 Doñana 14, 87-90, 130, Arte Ecuestre 121 car travel 79 T 332-3 religion 311 tabancos 123 food 31, 79 Parque Natural de Cabo Renaissance architecture tablaos 63, 343 de Gata-Níjar 298-303, highlights 80-1 330 tapas 13, 34, 168, 265, 292, 333, 299, 13 internet resources 82 Río Guadalquivir 332 352, 13 Parque Natural Los Seville (Sevilla) 44, 48-61, Río Madera 243 Tarifa 16, 142-7, , , Alcornocales 148-50, 144 17 39 Rio Tinto company 82, 92 64-78, 49, 54-5, 333 , accommodation 145-6 road rules 371 58 60 Parque Natural Sierra de accommodation 70-2 activities 143-5 rock climbing 40, 185 Andújar 226-7, 333 activities 61, 64, 66-7, 68 drinking & nightlife 147 Rodalquilar 302-3 Parque Natural Sierra de bicycle travel 66 festivals & events 145 Grazalema 137-8, 334 Roman settlement 313-14 children, travel with 71 food 146-7 Romería del Rocío 90 Parque Natural Sierra de courses 69 sights 143 Hornachuelos 216-18 Ronda 10, 178-84, 180, 10 drinking & nightlife 75-6 travel to/from 147 Parque Natural Sierra de accommodation 181-2 entertainment 76-7 taxes 363 las Nieves 183, 334 drinking & nightlife 183 festivals & events 17, 23, taxis 371 Parque Natural Sierra de entertainment 184 69-70, 17, 24 tea 356, see also teterías María-Los Vélez 307 festivals & events 181 (teahouses) flamenco 48 Parque Natural Sierra food 182-3 telephone services 150, food 48, 72-5 Norte de Sevilla 105-7 sights 178-9, 181 364-5 390 teterías (teahouses) travel to/from Andalucía Vélez Blanco 307-8 wildlife-watching 38, 88-9, 244-5, 267, 293, 356, 367-9 Vélez Málaga 189 see also birdwatching, 244, 245 travel within Andalucía vías verdes (greenways) dolphin-watching, theatres 369-72 37 individual animals Gran Teatro Falla 117 trees 334, 336 Vía Verde de la Sierra Centro de Fauna Silvestre Collado del Sevilla de Ópera 76 trekking, see hiking 138 Almendral 240-1

INDEX INDEX Teatro Cervantes 169 Trevélez 280 Vía Verde de la Sierra Norte 105 Parque Natural Sierra de Teatro Villamarta 125 Triana 66-7 Andújar 226-7 theme parks 42 Vía Verde de la Subbética 213 windsurfing 39, 144-5, T-Z Fort Bravo 295 284 U Vía Verde del Aceite Isla Mágica 68 ,Úbeda 16, 231-7, 233 223-4 wine 179, 212, 353, 354-5 Oasys Mini Hollywood see also bodegas accommodation 235 Villanueva de Córdoba 294-5 drinking & nightlife 236 217 wolves 335 Tivoli World 171 festivals & events 235 visas 150, 365-6 women travellers 366 time 365 food 235-6 Visigoths 314, 326 WWII 153, 323 tinto de verano 169 pottery 236 vultures 336-7 tipping 363 shopping 236 toilets 365 Y sights 232, 234 Yegen 281 tomatoes 296 W travel to/from 236-7 Torrecilla 183 walking, see hiking travel within 236-7 Torremolinos 170-2 weather 18, 23-5 Z unemployment 310-11 Torres, Julio Romero websites 19 Zahara de la Sierra 136 de 346 Upper Rock Nature weights 362 Zahara de los Atunes Reserve 153 tourist information 365 whale-watching 145 142, 15 towers white towns 16, 131-9 ziplining 174 Torre de la Calahorra V Arcos de la Frontera zoos 203 Válor 281 131-3, 135 Biopark 172 Torre del Tajo 141 Vandelvira, Andrés de driving tour 134, 134 Oasys Mini Hollywood Torre Pirulico 304 231, 330 Grazalema 135-6 294 Torre Tavira 109, 112 vegetarian travellers 32 Olvera 138-9 Parque Ornitológico Trafalgar Cemetery 152 Vejer de la Frontera 20, Vejer de la Frontera 20, Loro-Sexi 283 train tours 92-3 139-41, 16 139-41, 16 Zuheros 211-14 train travel 19, 368-9, Velázquez, Diego 51, 345 Zahara de la Sierra 136 Zurbarán, Francisco de 345 371-2, 372 Veleta 273, 275 wildlife 43, 334-7

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Isabella Noble Huelva & Sevilla Provinces, Cádiz Province & Gibraltar English/Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella grew up in a Málaga mountain village and later lived in Cádiz province. Adventures this edition included exploring Vejer’s magic, hiking Grazalema’s Garganta Verde, getting lost in Cádiz Carnaval and sipping tintos on bleach-blonde beaches in Tarifa, one of her favourite places in the world. For now, she lives in London and writes on Spain, India and beyond for a number of publications. Isabella also wrote the Outdoor Activities chapter. Find her on Twitter/ Instagram @isabellamnoble. Read more about Isabella at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/isabellanoble John Noble Córdoba Province, Jaén Province, Almería Province John, originally from Eng- land’s Ribble Valley, has lived in an Andalucian mountain village since 1995. He has explored Andalucía from end to end, playing a part in all eight editions of this guidebook. The highlight of research for this edition was going to the Sierra de Andújar to look for wildlife and quite coincidentally getting mixed up in the enor- mous once-a-year festivities of the Romería de la Virgen de la Cabeza. John also wrote the Andalucía Today and History chapters. Read more about John at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ewoodrover Josephine Quintero Málaga Province Josephine has lived in a small village just outside Málaga since 1992. As well as continually ‘discovering’ the Costa capital, Josephine loves strolling along the beachside promenades throughout the coastal resorts. A highlight this trip was discovering a Roman sulphur spring that has escaped being commercialised and enjoying inspirational art during an open studio week- end in the picturesque mountainside village of Gaucín. Josephine also wrote the Travel with Children chapter. Read more about Josephine at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/josephinequintero Brendan Sainsbury Seville, Granada Province Originally from Hampshire, England, Brendan first went to Spain on an Interrail ticket in the 1980s. He went back as a travel guide several years later and met his wife-to-be in a small village in rural Andalucía in 2003. He has been writing books for Lonely Planet for a decade, including four previous editions of the Spain and Andalucía guidebooks. Brendan loves Gra nada, the writing of Federico Lorca, cycling along via verdes and attending as many flamenco shows as his research allows. Brendan also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections. Read more about Brendan at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/brendansainsbury

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