Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 381 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Josephine Quintero Josephine would like to extend a mighty grand Many thanks to the travellers who used the gracias to the numerous staff at the various last edition and wrote to us with helpful tourist offices. She would also like to thank hints, useful advice and interesting Robin Chapman for joining her in all that dining anecdotes: and wining research, as well as Jorge Guzman, Nancy Barker, Dianne & Virgil Bodeen, Rich- a valuable contact in Málaga along with all ard Dinkeldein, Laura Gravina, David Hutch- her Spanish malagueño friends who provided eson, Anne Jovaras, Bernard Jovaras, John endless advice and tips. Finally she would like Kearins, Tim Kuemmerle, Graham Newton, to thank Destination Editor Lorna Parkes and Juhana Rantavuori, Derek Sime, Gary Stocker, everyone else involved in the title at Lonely Jacques Tribier Planet. Brendan Sainsbury AUTHOR THANKS Thanks to all the untold bus drivers, chefs, Isabella Noble hotel receptionists, tour guides and flamenco A huge gracias to all the andaluces (and guiris) singers who helped me in this research. who helped me out on the road. A big thank you to Annie and Pepi in Vejer for fantastic foodie tips, to Antonio for the good times in Écija and to Tes- sa for being the ultimate Gibraltar insider. Special ACKNOWLEDGMENTS thanks to Papi and Jacky, my favourite research Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, assistants and roadtripping companions, and Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated to my fabulous co-authors. As always, thanks to World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Susan Forsyth, for starting the Tarifa trend. Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. John Noble Special thanks to Izzy for sharing the whole Illustrations pp52-3, 200-1 & 252-3 by Javier experience, to Tito for good conversation and Zarracina. a fascinating film, and to all the so-welcoming Cover photograph: Plaza de España, Parque de andaluces who helped me along the way. María Luisa, Seville, Alan Copson / AWL ©. 382 This guidebook was produced Stefanos, Ross Taylor, THIS BOOK by the following: Tracy Whitmey This 8th edition of Lonely Cartographers Destination Editors Planet’s Andalucía guidebook Piotr Czajkowski, Julie Dodkins Jo Cooke, Lorna Parkes was researched and written by Cover Researcher Product Editor BEHIND THE SCENES Isabella Noble, John Noble, Jo- Naomi Parker Elizabeth Jones sephine Quintero and Brendan Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Sainsbury. The 7th edition was Senior Cartographer Daniel Corbett, Brendan written by Brendan Sainsbury, Anthony Phelan Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Anna Josephine Quintero and Daniel Book Designer Harris, Andi Jones, Kate Mathews, Claire Naylor, Karyn C Schechter, and the 6th Cam Ashley Noble, Darren O’Connell, was written by Anthony Ham, Assisting Editors Martine Power, Jessica Rose, Stuart Butler, Vesna Maric, Imogen Bannister, Kellie Diana Saengkham, Dianne John Noble and Zora O’Neill. Langdon, Bella Li, Charlotte Schallmeiner, Ellie Simpson, Orr, Victoria Smith, Gabrielle Angela Tinson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 383 Index A animals rights 348 Cala de Enmedio 300 Playa San Pedro 300, 301 accommodation 358-60, Antequera 185-8 Cala de la Media Luna Playamar 171 see also individual apes 153, 335 300 Punta del Moral 87 locations Aracena 20, 93-5, 94 Calas del Barronal 300 Punta Paloma 143 language 373 archaeological sites El Palmar 141 Tarifa 143 activities 23-5, 36-40, 82, Acinipo 184-5 El Puerto de Santa María Zahara de los Atunes see also individual 128 Baelo Claudia 148 142, 15 activities & locations Flecha del Rompido 86 Casa del Obispo 109 beer 355-6 Agua Amarga 303 Isla Canela 87 Cueva de la Pileta 184 Belalcázar 217 air travel 367-8 Isla Cristina 86-7 Cueva de los Letreros 308 Benalmádena 170-2 airports 367-8 La Carihuela 171 Dolmen de Menga 186 Benaoján 184 Alájar 96-7 Los Caños de Meca 141 Dolmen de Viera 186 Bérchules 281 Alcalá la Real 226 Matalascañas 87 Dolmen del Romeral 186 bicycle travel, see cycling Alcaracejos 217 Mojácar Playa 303-4 Itálica 98 birds 336-7 Alcázar (Seville) 56-7, 59 Playa Burriana 193 Los Millares 296-7 birdwatching 38, 336-7 Alfarnate 190 Playa Calahonda 193 Madinat al-Zahra 205-6, Centro de Fauna Silvestre Alfarnatejo 190 327 Playa Central 86 Collado del Almendral Algeciras 149 Necrópolis Romana Playa Chica 143 240-1 Alhambra 9, 250-5, 328-9, 99, 101 Playa de la Caleta 112 Centro de Visitantes José 252-3, 254, 8-9, 252-3 Teatro Romano (Cádiz) 109 Playa de la Charca 282 Antonio Valverde 89 Almería 288-94, 290 Templo Romano Playa de la Gaviota 86 El Rocío 90, 91 accommodation 291 (Córdoba) 204-5 Playa de la Guardia 282 Gaucín 185 drinking & nightlife 293 architecture 21, 231, 325-31 Playa de la Malagueta 163 Gibraltar 154 entertainment 293 books 330 Playa de la Muralla 128 Laguna de Fuente de Piedra 189 festivals & events 291 Arcos de la Frontera 131-3, Playa de la Puntilla 128 Parque Natural Sierra de food 292-3 135, 132 Playa de la Rada 175 Andújar 226-7 history 288 Ardales 185 Playa de la Victoria 113 Peñón de Zaframagón 138 sights 288-9, 291 area codes 364 Playa de las Cortinas 141 Sierra Nevada 275 tapas 292 Arroyo Frío 240 Playa de los Genoveses boat travel 369 travel to/from 293-4 art galleries, see museums 300 bodegas travel within 294 & galleries Playa de los Lances 143 El Puerto de Santa María Almería province 46, 285- arts 15, 22, 51, 266, 344-7 Playa de Mónsul 300 127, 128 308, 286-7 ATMs 363 Playa de Pedregalejo 163 Jerez de la Frontera 120-1 accommodation 285 Ayamonte 87 Playa de San Cristóbal 283 Laujar de Andarax 297 car travel 285 Playa de Santa Catalina food 33, 285 Montilla 212 B 128 highlights 286-7 Playa de Valdelagrana 128 Sanlúcar de Barrameda Baelo Claudia 148 130 Almodóvar del Río 216 Playa de Valdevaqueros Baena 211 Bolonia 148 Almohads 327-8 143 Baeza 16, 227-31, 228, 16 books 310, see also Almonaster la Real 98 Playa del Barronal 300 Barbary apes 153, 335 literature Almoravids 327 Playa del Cañuelo 193 Baroque architecture 330-1 architecture 330 Playa del Faro 141 Almuñécar 283-4 Barranco de Poqueira 278 Playa del Playazo 300, food 353 bathrooms 365 301 history 316, 322 beaches 14, 21, 84 Playa el Palo 163 wine 353 Map Pages 000 Cabo de Gata 300, 13 Playa Fuentebravía 128 border crossings 150, Photo Pages 000 Cala Carbón 300 Playa Puerta del Mar 283 149, 368 384 Bubión 278 casa rurales 360 Castillo de Santiago 130 Catedral de la budget 19 Castaño del Robledo 97-8 Castillo de Segura 243 Encarnación 288-9 bullfighting 182, 321, castles & forts 42, see also Castillo de Vejer de la Catedral de la Sierra 217 348-50 palaces & mansions Frontera 139-40 Catedral de Málaga 157 bullrings 349 Alcazaba (Almería) 288 Castillo de Vélez Blanco Catedral de San Plaza de Toros (El Puerto Alcazaba (Antequera) 307 Salvador 119 INDEX de Santa María) 127 186 Castillo de Zuheros 212 Catedral de Sevilla 9, Plaza de Toros (Mijas) Alcazaba (Granada) 254 Castillo del Marqués de 50-6, 52-3, 9, 52-3 177 Alcazaba (Guadix) 271 los Vélez 307 Colegiata de Santa María Plaza de Toros (Ronda) Fortaleza de la Mota 226 de la Asunción 102 B-C Alcazaba (Málaga) 179 157, 160 Moorish Castle Colegiata de Santa María Plaza de Toros de la Real Alcázar (Jerez de la (Gibraltar) 153 la Mayor (Antequera) Maestranza 64 Frontera) 119 cathedrals, see churches & 186 bus travel 19, 368, 369-70 Alcázar (Seville) 56-7, 59 cathedrals Colegiata del Salvador 256 business hours 363 Alcázar de la Puerta de caves 42 butterflies 171 Sevilla 99 Barriada de las Cuevas Ermita de Nuestra Señora Reina de los Alcázar de los Reyes 271 Ángeles 96 Cristianos 202-3 Cueva de la Pileta 184 Ermita del Rocío 90 C Alhambra 9, 250-5, Cueva de los Letreros Cabo de Gata 13, 298-303, Iglesia de la Asunción 242 328-9, 252-3, 254, 308 299, 13 8-9, 252-3 Cueva de los Iglesia de la Aurora 214 Cabo de Trafalgar 141 Castillo Árabe Murciélagos 213 Iglesia de la Santa Cruz Cádiz 13, 109, 112-18, 320, (Constantina) 107 Cueva de Nerja 192 228 , 114-15 13 Castillo Árabe (Olvera) Cuevas de Sorbas 295 Iglesia de Nuestra accommodation 113 Señora de la O 129 138 Cuevas del Almanzora activities 112-13 Castillo Árabe 307 Iglesia de San Francisco 214 courses 113 (Salobreña) 282 Gruta de las drinking & nightlife 117 Castillo de Albánchez Maravillas 93 Iglesia de San Jorge 85 entertainment 117-18 232 Guadix 271 Iglesia de San Juan (Almería) 288 festivals & events 112 Castillo de Almodóvar Sacromonte 260 216 Iglesia de San Juan food 113, 116-17 St Michael’s Cave 153 Castillo de Aracena 93 (Écija) 104 internet resources