PNG Showcase All Set for the Goroka Show

The in-flight magazine of Air NiuginI volume 5 september – october 2017 Paradise

PNG showcase All set for the Goroka Show

City secrets Locals reveal the best things about their towns Shanghai guide Everything you need to know about the Chinese megacity Air mystery What happened to Amelia Earhart?

PLUS: PNG culture wellness food books movies 430x285mm_BSP eBanking_PIB_210717.pdf 1 7/31/2017 8:28:37 AM

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AIRLINE NEWS 16 DEPARTURE LOUNGE THE LATEST FROM AIR NIUGINI NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE Q&A: Business travel specialist, A message from Floyd Smith 14 Air Niugini’s chairman 8 Airships over PNG skies? 15 Presidential visit 10 PNG teachers in for a lesson 16 Welcome to the jet age 10 Tall timber found in PNG 18 New and improved lounges 12 Eco luxury retreat opens on Bawah islands 20 Air Niugini roadshow 12

TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY, OUR REGION, OUR WORLD 22 42 64

City secrets 10 revelations Out There Locals reveal best Get to know the Cook Islands 42 Overwater bungalows in the things about their towns 22 Solomon Islands 64 Graveyard of ships PNG showcase Below the surface at Chuuk Lagoon 50 Three of a kind All set for the Goroka Show 34 Private islands 66 Chill-out Tea house bliss A relaxing Vanuatu resort 52 Review A big slice of cake and Fijian Airways Hotel, Port Moresby 68 friendliness 38 City guide Everything you need to know Time Traveller 70 Japan’s Yokohama about Shanghai 56 A blend of old and new 40

4 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine in paradise contentS

TOWNSVILLE STRICTLY BUSINESS DESTINATION SPECIAL PEOPLE, COMPANIES, INDUSTRIES

Town for all seasons Sister cities PNG cocoa show A gateway to rainforest, Port Moresby and Townsville Growers rewarded for excellence 112 reef and outback 72 forge strong links 72 All eyes on Singapore Why PNG businesses are setting Food scene takes off up in the Lion City 114 The best places to eat 76 China plan A packed calendar Duffy cafe to open in Guangzhou 116 Townsville events 77 The big fix Magnetic attraction Highlands Highway under repair 118 An island tour 78 A caffeine hit 120 LIVING Coffee project and conservation LIFESTYLE, CULTURE, SPORT, ENTERTAINMENT BRAIN GYM 80 Air QUIZ, PUZZLES, CROSSWORD mystery What Crosswords, puzzles 124 happened to Amelia Quiz: How well do you know Earhart? 92 the region? 125

Private kitchen Solutions 126 Dinner with a Hong Kong celebrtiy chef 99 ARRIVALS LOUNGE PNG VISITOR GUIDE Flying miracle Spotted In The good samaritan delivering 102 Advice, where to eat, hotels 128 medical help to remote PNG 80 Social change advocate in Melbourne Tok Pisin words and phrases 134 Tradition, art and a love story Look good, feel good Wellness and beauty 104 An Aussie artist preserving PNG Port Moresby street map 135 traditional knowledge 86 Gadgets and travel accessories 106 Lae street map 136 Game time 108 12,000 athletes set for Movie previews PNG Games 88 Book previews 110 A piece of PNG Wooden bowls 90

The in-fligh T magazine of a ir niugini volume 5 sep Tember – oc Tober 2017 AIR NIUGINI PASSENGER INFORMATION 138 Paradise 140 In-flight entertainment highlights PNG ShowcaSe All set for the GorokA show

city SecretS Locals reveal the best about their towns ShaNGhai GUide Everything you need to know about the Chinese megacity Cover photo: All dressed up for the Goroka Show. See our story, page 34. air myStery What happened to Amelia Earhart? PICTURE: DAVID KIRKLAND, PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY

PLUS: PNG cULtUre weLLNeSS food bookS movie S

September – October 2017 5 Paradise Paradise is the complimentary in-flight magazine of Air Niugini, Papua New Guinea’s international airline. Business Advantage International publishes it six times a year.

BUSINESS ADVANTAGE INTERNATIONAL EDITOR Printed in Australia. Both printer and paper manufacturer for Robert Upe this publication are accredited to ISO14001, the internationally PUBLISHING DIRECTOR recognised standard for environmental management. This Andrew Wilkins STAFF WRITERS publication is printed using vegetable inks and the stock David James, Kevin McQuillan is elemental chlorine free and manufactured using COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR sustainable forestry practices. Robert Hamilton-Jones CONTRIBUTORS Richard Andrews, John Brooksbank, Sarah Byrne, Some of the articles in this publication are edited versions of BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER those first published on the online PNG business magazine, Greg Clarke, Glenn Dunks, Roderick Eime, Bronwen businessadvantagepng.com. Charles Saldanha Gora, Brian Johnston, Fiona Harper, Susan Gough +61 (0)404 842 472 Henly, Ken Hoppen, Nina Karnikowski, Sarah Unsolicited manuscripts, artwork, transparencies and [email protected] Nicholson, Mary O’Brien, Ben Packham, Liz Porter, photographs are submitted at the sender’s risk. While all care will be taken, neither the publishers nor the airline will accept Julian Ryall, Annette Sete, Matt Shea, Craig Tansley, Business Advantage International Pty Ltd responsibility for accidental loss or damage. No part of this Jeff Turnbull, Penny Watson Level 20, 31 Queen Street, Melbourne, publication may be reproduced without the written permission Victoria, 3000, Australia AIR NIUGINI EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS of the publisher. Statements, opinions and points of view Tel +61 3 9111 0044 Fax + 61 3 8678 1269 Illan Kaprangi, Nori Maniana expressed by the writers are their own and do not necessarily www.businessadvantageinternational.com represent those of the publisher, editor, or the airline. DESIGN Information contained in this publication may be correct only Michael Whitehead, Alicia Freile at the time it was originally obtained by the writers and may be subject to change at any time and without notice. Editorial inquiries CORRESPONDENCE TO THE AIRLINE © Copyright. 2017. All rights reserved. Tel +61 3 9111 0044 The Chief Executive Officer [email protected] Air Niugini PO Box 7186, Boroko, NCD, Papua New Guinea Paradise online Tel +675 327 3458 Fax +675 327 3550 www.airniuginiparadise.com

Building solutions for diverse and challenging projects

n Social infrastructure n Industrial and affordable housing n Facility buildings n Framecad steel framing systems and building materials RHODES Portion 2733 Napa Napa Road, [email protected] EmpowEring CommunitiEs through Porebada, Central Province, PNG www.rhodespng.com BUILDINGsoCial infra sSYSTEMtruCturE +675 7144 8773 www.rhodesprojects.com.au

6 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine Experience a

world of dif ference.

Call +675 302 8888 to secure your stay, email [email protected] or visit www.thestanleypng.com Welcome aboard Fully Serviced Apartments s I write, our newly elected Modernising airport terminals, and runways and navigation, is 10th National Parliament has costly – and Air Niugini is grateful to the National Government for For Lease met for the first time and has implementing the largest airport infrastructure program in Papua Aundertaken its most important New Guinea’s history. In tandem with this investment, Air Niugini constitutional duty – the election of the has been modernising its fleet. The airline has taken delivery of nine Long or Short Term... prime minister. Fokker 70 aircraft, connecting Port Moresby with our regional capitals The board and management of Air of Lae, Mount Hagen and Rabaul. These aircraft are also serving Niugini congratulate Peter O’Neill on his our growing Pacific network, connecting Port Moresby with Cairns, re-election as prime minister and wish Townsville, Solomon Islands, Vanuatu, Fiji and the Federated States him and his ministers every success in of Micronesia. the five-year term of this parliament. The development of our international operations remains an The prime minister has always important project, and in the next few years our aircraft fleet will be given the board of Air Niugini strong support. That support has been significantly upgraded with four new Boeing 737-MAX aircraft. invaluable during a period of significant change, as the airline has Our modernisation program is not confined to aircraft and terminals. sought to work more efficiently and has expanded services home and In October, the switch to the Sabre Solutions Passenger Service abroad in a difficult economic environment. System will be completed. This will deliver the most modern and The support of the National Government will continue to be reliable e-commerce service available. It will include efficient invaluable as we implement our largest fleet upgrade, and improve online booking, more competitive fare choices, as well as improved service to passengers, and our business and commercial partners. customer service options. Perhaps the most important support Air Niugini has received from While our focus is on servicing our major destinations, as the the National Government has been the upgrading and redevelopment national airline we are not neglecting the air travel needs of the of major provincial airports. The work has included modern terminal people of PNG living in more remote and distant communities. This is facilities, improved navigational aids, airstrip expansion and resealing. principally delivered through our subsidiary airline, Link PNG. Since its The result of this significant investment has given Port Moresby inception, just under three years ago as a low-cost and no-frills airline, a modern, comfortable and passenger-friendly international airport Link PNG has enjoyed strong passenger and community support. that is enabling Air Niugini to achieve its goal of developing Jacksons Air Niugini has a proud record of supporting community service by Airport as a regional ‘hub’ for the Pacific Islands. subsidising unprofitable routes. Maintaining these services depends The redevelopment of other airport terminals – notably Nadzab on Air Niugini operating with maximum efficiency – and with AIRWAYS RESIDENTIAL LIVING (Lae), Mount Hagen and Hoskins – has ensured our busiest regional continued passenger and business customer support. MISTY MOUNTAINS....SUNRISE airports have the most modern facilities. Concurrent with this, Air We are appreciative of your support and, of course, the National Niugini is also investing in business class lounges at key airports. New Government’s support. Working together, we will continue to provide lounges have opened at Mount Hagen, Lae and Hoskins. a high quality, efficient and safe service. The upgrading of Vanimo and Goroka airports will soon be completed Enjoy your flight. and, over the next 18 months to two years, major work will be undertaken at Momote (Manus), Mount Hagen, Mendi, Gurney (Alotau), Kavieng, Buka, Madang and Wewak airports. These airports will be partially closed during construction, possibly causing some inconvenience, but the improvements will eventually Sir Frederick Reiher, KCMG, KBE MP _1716463 benefit passengers. Chairman, Air Niugini Limited It’s really so much better here...

8 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine Tel: (675) 325 4366 | email: [email protected] | www.airwaysresidences.com.pg Fully Serviced Apartments For Lease Long or Short Term...

AIRWAYS RESIDENTIAL LIVING MISTY MOUNTAINS....SUNRISE MP _1716463 It’s really so much better here... Tel: (675) 325 4366 | email: [email protected] | www.airwaysresidences.com.pg Airline news The latest from Air Niugini WITH ILLAN KAPRANGI

End of an era … the last of Air Niugini’s six Q400 turboprop planes at Jacksons President visits International Airport. Port Moresby Air Niugini eter Christian, the president of the new service and my government will continue Federated States of Micronesia (FSM), to work with Air Niugini to ensure the route fleet completes visited Port Moresby recently and met is sustainable.” transformation Pwith the heads of Air Niugini and the Air Niugini chief executive officer, Simon into jet age National Airports Corporation. Foo, says demand for the Port Moresby– They discussed several issues relating to FSM route is increasing and that the airline Air Niugini has become an all-jet aircraft the airline industry, including Air Niugini’s will continue to work closely with the FSM company after retiring the last of its six new flights to Pohnpei and Chuuk in FSM. government, business community and the Q400 turboprop planes. The airline’s fleet The president acknowledged Air Niugini for tourism sector to ensure the new service now comprises two Boeing 767s, three providing the service between FSM and Port grows to the next level. Boeing 737s, seven Fokker 100s and five Moresby and confirmed his government’s National Airports Corporation acting Fokker 70s. Four more Fokker 70s are support. “We are extremely happy with this managing director, Richard Yopo, says the scheduled for delivery soon. recent upgrade at Jacksons International Air Niugini chief executive officer, airport provides an alternative gateway Simon Foo, says the Q400 aircraft, used between the Pacific, Australia and Asia. PNG, since 2010, served its purpose, however We are extremely happy as a nation and a good neighbour, will do all it the airline is streamlining its fleet to with this new service can to facilitate and increase flights to other reduce the variety of aircraft to create Pacific islands out of Port Moresby, making commonality in its operations. (to Micronesia) and it easier for passengers to transfer between “When you have a common fleet of my government will the major centres of the Pacific, Australia and aircraft, you have common spare parts Asia, he says.n and common crew, including pilots. This continue to work with results in greatly reduced costs and Air Niugini to ensure the See our story on page 50, ‘Graveyard increased efficiency in operations.” of ships, planes’, about diving in Chuuk He says that F70 has significant route is sustainable. Lagoon in FSM. advantages over propeller-driven planes. “A Fokker 70 is a longer-range aircraft than Top-level trio … (from the Q400 and the ATR. It flies faster and left) National Airports Corporation acting higher than the turboprops, shortening managing director, journey times.” Richard Yopo, FSM The Fokker 70 operates on key domestic president, Peter Christian, and routes, which the Q400 used to operate, Air Niugini chief as well as international routes to Cairns, executive Townsville and Micronesia. officer, Simon Foo. THE AIR NIUGINI FLEET Boeing 767 x2

Boeing 737 x3

Fokker 100 x 7

Fokker 70 x 5 + Four more Fokker 70s on order

10 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine airline news The latest from Air Niugini

Grand opening … West New Britain Chamber of New chairman Commerce president, Ian O’Hanlon, and Air Niugini chairman, Simon for airline group Foo, cut the ribbon to open ir Niugini chief executive officer the Paradise lounge at and outgoing chairman of the Hoskins. Association of South Pacific Airlines Leaders of the pack … (front row, from left) ASPA general secretary George Faktaufon, Air (ASPA), Simon Foo, has welcomed Niugini chief executive officer Simon Foo, and Air A Niugini general manager of human resources Rei the new ASPA chairman, Geoff Bowmaker, who is a veteran of the airline industry and Logona, flanked by the emerging leaders. the chief executive officer of Nauru Airlines. “I am confident he will continue to develop the association’s goals to nurture and grow Taking the lead the airline industry in our region.” Bowmaker started as a junior clerk at otential future leaders at Air Niugini Qantas in 1968 and worked his way up to recently attended an emerging leaders senior positions. program conducted by the Association New and He has also held senior positions at Air of South Pacific Airlines (ASPA). Namibia in Southern Africa and Air Pacific in P improved The airline’s 25 emerging leaders were Suva, Fiji. selected 18 months ago, and have been Paradise “I am honoured to be elected to lead training in Papua New Guinea and overseas. ASPA for the next 12 months and I appreciate Air Niugini chief executive officer, Simon lounges the good work of the previous chairman, Mr Foo, speaking at the ASPA program, said: Air Niugini is pushing ahead with a Foo, who has greatly assisted my transition “I challenge you all as leaders to aim for customer care program to improve its into the role,” Bowmaker said. the chief executive officer post as your domestic services that includes new His vision now is to continue to develop the ultimate goal and to build a strong and improved Paradise lounges for its association’s goals, including cooperation management team for the future prosperity Executive Club Members (ECMs). among airlines for the development of of our national airline.” In recent months, the airline has commercial aviation within, to and from the A number of the participants under the launched a new lounge at Hoskins airport South Pacific region. program have already been appointed to in West New Britain and refurbished the ASPA has 13 airline members and 46 senior roles in Air Niugini, including senior n lounge at Nadzab airport in Lae. industry service provider members. positions previously held by non-citizens. Air Niugini has nine Paradise lounges in Its primary role is to serve as a common its domestic network, including Mount forum for members’ views on matters of n Hagen, Lae, Tokua, Madang, Kieta, Wewak, common interest. Goroka, Hoskins and Port Moresby. Airline roadshow Chief executive officer, Simon Foo, ir Niugini and its subsidiary, Link says the lounges provide greater comfort PNG, have been on a domestic for passengers. “ECMs can sit right in roadshow to update the business comfort with a nice snack and cuppa, community on the airlines’ general while waiting for the aircraft.” A business operations, as well as future plans. Air Niugini has more than 5000 ECMs. The team, led by Air Niugini chief executive Apart from lounge access, ECMs receive officer, Simon Foo, and Link PNG’s general preferred seat arrangements, additional manager, Bruce Alabaster, has visited baggage allowance, a specific check-in destinations such as Lae, Hoskins, Madang , counter, priority check in and access to Goroka, Alotau and Wewak. partner lounges. Apart from outlining furture plans, To join or inquire about Air Niugini’s the airlines have spoken about on-time Executive Club, phone 327 3453. Geoff Bowmaker … the new ASPA chairman and performance, increased frequencies, seat chief executive of Nauru Airlines. upgrades and route expansions.n

12 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine Helping business reach new heights. Westpac has been helping business in PNG to fly high since 1910. And today we’re doing even more. We’ve recently launched the Verifone EFTPOS terminal, which is supported by a team of experts. Our award-winning Corporate Online Platform is in high demand. And we’re continuing to expand our infrastructure and capabilities to meet the needs of government, corporate and institutional customers. It’s all part of our commitment to supporting business in PNG for years to come.

Banking for generations

SOSS0533 Departure Lounge News, briefings, local knowledge PARADISE Q&A FLOYD SMITH We talk to the general manager of the Business Travel Centre (BTC), Air Niugini’s first travel centre.

Q: When did the Business Travel Centre required. All have full access to the corporate with add-on leisure travel to take advantage open and where is it? accounts, and service these accounts of PNG’s unique fishing, diving and surfing A: It opened last December at the anytime between 8am and 8pm daily. adventures and also the rich and diverse Waterfront Foodworld Complex, next to the Handling our corporate business has been cultural activities. Walking the Kokoda Trail naval base on the Poreporena Freeway in streamlined to provide efficient and real- also continues to be a huge attraction, Port Moresby. time accessibility with the latest Universal growing annually. Q: What travel services are offered? Air Travel Plan (UATP) accounting facility. Q: BTC has very long operating hours. A: We are a one-stop travel shop that This has been well received by our business Can you give us the details? can sell all things travel, including tickets customers. We consult, for instance, with A: We’re open seven days a week from for all airlines. BTC organises air travel, many fly-in, fly-out workers on remote mining 8am to 8pm, including public holidays. accommodation, transfers, tours, cruises and projects. Some of the most travelled routes BTC also offers after-hours support to the car rentals. It offers very competitive rates are between Port Moresby and Lae, Mount network of Air Niugini offices. In addition to using all international airlines, including Air Hagen, Rabaul, Madang, Manus, Lihir, Tabubil its extended 84-hour work week, BTC has Niugini. The 16 staff are all ex-Air Niugini and Kiunga, and Hoskins. introduced systems to ensure its customers trained travel consultants with a combined Q: Do you find that clients who come to are serviced promptly and efficiently. travel experience of 159 years. Papua New Guinea on business stay on to Customers can contact BTC in person, Q: We understand that BTC is explore other parts of the country? by telephone or via email. n particularly well equipped to deal with A: Yes, an increasing number of business — SUSAN GOUGH HENLY corporate business travel. Can you travellers are extending their travel itineraries explain why? Phone +675 321 2888, A: We have a dedicated team of five email [email protected]. full-time consultants that look after our corporate businesses exclusively, with further assistance from our retail team as PICTURE: ILLAN KAPRANGI ILLAN PICTURE:

The 16 staff are all ex-Air Niugini trained travel consultants with a combined travel experience of 159 years.

14 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE with Robert Upe Airships over PNG skies?

ybrid airships look set to make their mark in Papua New Guinean skies over the next few years, providing a Hnew way to carry freight to and from remote areas, and to offer tourism adventures. PNG is a classic location where airships could play a pivotal role in developing agriculture, mining and tourism, according to Peter Wallace, director of Airships Australasia, which plans to operate airships in Asia and the Pacific. “Their major advantages are convenience and cost,” he says. “They don’t require any infrastructure, so they don’t require an airport. All that’s needed is a relatively flat clear ground or water for landing.” Wallace says the airships will revolutionise the way oil and mining companies haul Up, up and away ... airships may revolutionise the way oil and mining companies haul equipment to equipment to remote locations, where there remote PNG locations. Tourism adventures may also be possible. are no roads, or poor quality roads. “They can move 20 tons of cargo, plus about 20 people, and set down on nearly any out at a much cheaper cost than traditional facilitates taxiing and holds the craft firmly flat surface, including sand, and water,” he air freight. on the ground. says. “Their range is up to 3500 kilometres. “And there’s also the advantage of not The two developers of hybrid airships are “For example, an airship could take all mining having multiple handling, so product wouldn’t UK-based Hybrid Air Vehicles and US-based personnel and equipment to and from a mine, be spoilt or damaged as it might be by Lockheed Martin. do initial processing at the mine and transport road transport.” Canadian mining company, Quest Rare concentrated ore from the mine. That means a Hybrid airships use quite different Minerals, has become Lockheed’s first mine could be developed without constructing technology to the original airship design, with customer, signing a 10-year $US850 million a road or rail link into a remote area – a major helium providing 60 to 80 per cent of the lift, memorandum of understanding for seven cost saving and maybe the difference between and the remaining lift from the aerodynamic airships from 2019. n a mine being feasible and not being feasible. shape of the aircraft and its four thrust — KEVIN McQUILLAN “For a large agricultural project an airship vectoring engines. The airships also feature a represents a fast way of getting product hovercraft-like air cushion landing system that

Tourism show NUMBER CRUNCH

apua New Guinea’s tourism offering will be on show during That’s the number of males to every 100 females in the Lukim PNG Nau expo at Port Moresby’s Nature Park from Papua New Guinea, according to the National Statistical September 24 to 26. There will be displays open to the public, Office of PNG. Overall, there are also more men in the 108world than women. The world sex ratio is 101.78 males as well as trade days for international travel agents. Airlines, P for every 100 females, according to the World Data Atlas. small resorts, hotels and tour operators will be taking part in the expo run by the PNG Tourism Industry Association and PNG Tourism Promotion Authority.

September – October 2017 15 departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE Teachers in for a lesson

he Kokoda Track Foundation (KTF) Front of class ... Genevieve Nelson addresses is pressing ahead with an urgent more than 500 teacher graduates at the Morobe training project to up-skill thousands Teach for Tomorrow graduation ceremony. T of elementary school teachers across Papua New Guinea. According to KTF chief executive officer, Dr Genevieve Nelson, there are 600,000 school-aged children who do not attend school in PNG due to the lack of qualified teachers. And, at the end of the year, more teachers could fall out of the system because of changes to the minimum qualifications they need. Nelson says there are a large number of teachers across PNG who trained in the past 20 years, but were never given the opportunity to finish their studies. But the six-week ‘Teach for Tomorrow’ project now allows them to complete that training. The project has already put 1200 partially trained teachers through the short course, but the aim is to have another 2500 graduate Nelson says it has been financially backed “It is one of the most important roles with a Certificate in Elementary Teaching. by provincial governments, the Australian aid within society. Every week, I entrust The certificate meets the new minimum program, and corporate sponsors. the care of my two young daughters to qualification needed by December 31 “But we’re always needing more help,” she their pre-school teachers. I hope that these and allows the teachers to remain in the says. “This is vitally important to the future teachers will nurture, teach, develop, education system. education of Papua New Guineans.” care for and love my most precious people The project is a collaboration between KTF, Nelson told one group of graduates from in the entire world. Never underestimate the National Department of Education and the up-skilling project that being a teacher the enormous impact you have on your PNG Education Institute. is an honourable role. students.”

16 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

teachers and school children so they can do schoolwork at night. Solar Buddy inventor and chief executive officer, Simon Doble, says 17,000 lights have been donated around the globe in less than a year, in what he describes as a battle against ‘energy poverty’. About 1500 have been sent to PNG via KTF. “Around the world, one in five people go to bed in total darkness,” says Doble. In PNG, it’s estimated that only about 13 per cent of Papua New Guineans are on the electricity grid and only 3.7 per cent of the rural population is connected. Children in newly solar-powered homes remain awake longer each day and use 38 per cent of their additional time for studying and reading, according to Doble. Lightbulb moment ... (left) a father in Uganda reads to his children “Our solar lights allow Papua New Guineans with a Solar Buddy light. The lights to study, prepare lessons or do business at are being distributed in PNG, too, night,” he says. “Apart from the education hand-in-hand with a teacher training program by the Kokoda Track benefits, there are also environmental and Foundation. Teacher graduates in economic benefits because people do not Bougainville (above). have to buy expensive torch batteries or kerosene (for lighting).” The small lights run off a solar-charged battery that can be re-charged 500 times, providing up to 10 hours of light at a time. The first ‘Teach for Tomorrow’ course KTF was established in 2003 to repay the Replacement batteries are available. was in Oro Province last year, with 330 support given to Australia by PNG during Solar Buddy works with Australian school graduates. KTF reports that 88 per cent World War 2. Over the years, the presence children, who assemble the lights, learn of participants on that course had been of the aid and development agency has about energy poverty and donate the lights working as partially trained teachers for spread beyond the Kokoda region to include to children overseas. six years or more. KTF has since expanded the entire country. Apart from PNG, the lights have been the project to Gulf, Morobe and Milne Bay Hand-in-hand with the teacher-training distributed in Uganda, Ghana, Tanzania, provinces, and the Autonomous Region program, the Australian charity, SolarBuddy. Myanmar, Nepal, Tibet and India. n of Bougainville. org, has been handing out solar lights to the See ktf.ngo, solarbuddy.org.

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Cafe Guided Tours Souvenir Shop Hotel/Aiport Transfer U Open 7 days 8:00am - 4:30pm YO R AN Y N U U B A Ph: 326 0248 / 326 Open0258 7 days 8:00am - 4:30pm MEMBERSHIPL Email: reservations. pomnp@Ph:g mai326 l0248.com / 326 0258 Email: reservations. [email protected] TO DAY Goro Kaeaga Road, University (next Gtoro POM Kaeaga RNoaad,tional Universit yH (nighext to PSomchool). National High School).

September – October 2017 17 departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Tall timber found in PNG

survey of Papua New Guinea’s lush Dr John Dwyer, from UQ, says researchers primary forests has revealed that became excited when they realised the the country’s mountains may have unique climate conditions found on PNG’s A the largest trees recorded globally mountain tops were remarkably similar to at such high altitudes. those of temperate maritime areas known The study was led by Dr Michelle Venter, to grow the largest trees in the world. from Canada’s University of Northern British The world’s tallest known tree is a Columbia, and involved the University of 115.8-metre coast redwood in California, Queensland (UQ) and James Cook University. and the second-tallest is a 99.82-metre “Current thinking is that tall mountains mountain ash in Tasmania. make small trees,” Venter says. “However, Coast redwoods (pictured) occur at we recorded more than 15 tree families elevations up to about 920 metres, while with individuals growing to 40-metres tall the Australian mountain ash occurs in at extreme altitudes, which brings this cool mountainous areas to 1000 metres, assumption into question.” considerably less than the PNG altitudes. The researchers found that the forest “The study may force a re-think of what biomass in PNG had a peak at altitudes we know about the ideal environments for between 2400 and 3100 metres, altitudes growing very large trees,” according where forests struggle to reach more than to Dwyer. n 15 metres in other parts of the world.

18 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine departure lounge NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Remote luxury ECO retreat opens

Island pleasures ... the Bawah eco retreat is strung out across five previously uninhabited islands.

luxury eco retreat that can only be to sunset; an Asian-fusion restaurant that Unspoilt eco luxury comes at a price. A reached by seaplane, has opened uses locally grown ingredients; and a wood- night for two people costs from $US1960 in a remote part of Indonesia in the panelled library in the tree tops, stocked (PGK6235), including accommodation, A South China Sea, 150 nautical miles with a diverse collection of natural history, transfers, meals and non-motorised activities. from Singapore. architecture, and classic literature, plus maps To access Bawah, it’s best to travel via Previously uninhabited, Bawah is strung and guidebooks. Singapore, take a short ferry ride to Batam across five islands, has three crystal-clear Guests can unwind with cocktails at the Island, Indonesia, and then a 70-minute flight lagoons and 13 beaches. There are 35 eco- Grouper Bar, Jules Verne Bar, and Boat on Bawah’s private seaplane. designed suites and overwater bungalows for House Bar. These uniquely themed bars are See bawahisland.com. a maximum of 70 guests. situated in different zones on Bawah, each Materials like bamboo, recycled teak and offering beautiful and distinctive sights of the Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby driftwood are used throughout the property, surrounding islands. to Singapore five times a week. which also includes an infinity swimming pool. Fishing and anchoring in Bawah’s waters See airniugini.com.pg. There’s also a holistic wellness centre are forbidden, and to protect the abundance where you can personalise yoga, pilates, of flora and fauna, including butterflies, meditation, and reiki sessions from sunrise no pesticides are used. PERCHED On the edge

Ulu Cliffhouse (pictured), a beach club with will foster a live music program that Ulu jaw-dropping views, has opened in Bali. hopes will establish it as one of Bali’s leading With direct beach access, it includes a music venues. 25-metre infinity pool, a day spa, a boutique See ulucliffhouse.com. store and a terraced restaurant. It also provides a base for Bali’s creative Air Niugini flies from Port communities with a recording studio, Moresby to Bali weekly. a curated gallery space and an in-house See airniugini.com.pg. surfboard shaper. The recording studio

20 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

traveller our country, our region, our world H O N G

K O

ISB BR ANE

P O R T M ORESBY

From Port Moresby to Hong Kong, Mary O’Brien interviews City locals to find out the best things about their cities. secrets

O KY O T

BALI

M A C A U

22 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region

ISB BR ANE

Leanne Jorari ... TV producer and presenter for EMTV (below); she likes Duffy's for its ambience and pastries (above).

PORT MORESBY at Gordon is closer to my workplace friends overseas, or even just to and therefore more convenient. buy myself a new meri-blouse, I A night out with the girls? can just walk up and shop to my Girl’s nights typically involve heart’s content. Like everywhere Port Moresby is dinner and cocktails or, if we’re else in POM, you have to be vigilant a melting pot of feeling social, out to a club for because of the loiterers. people and culture. some dancing. Port Moresby now Place that most surprised you? has a wide variety of restaurants Second-hand shops in Papua New The majority of to choose from so we usually Guinea are amazing. I wasn’t much residents aren’t just decide by whatever we’re of a second-hand or thrift shop kind craving on the night. If it’s Indian, of shopper before, until a friend, originally from Port then definitely Tasty Bites Indian who is always dressed to the Moresby, but we Restaurant in town; if it’s an all-you- nines, took me to a second-hand are fiercely loyal can-eat buffet, I like the restaurant shop at Garden City in Boroko and at the Stanley Hotel, or Kopitiam I got hooked. You’ll find near-new to her. at Gordon’s Industrial, if we’re after dresses and tops, suede boots and something low key and low budget. just about anything you want. Place to relax? Best-kept secret about Port Afternoon drives up the Magi Moresby? The local: Leanne Jorari Province, but the city has become Highway. That’s not one ‘single’ There is a great bar/hangout What she does: TV producer and our home and we are fiercely loyal place but generally just driving up called Red Rock Bar, along the presenter at EMTV; from the Oro to her. the highway with the landscape Magi Highway on the outskirts of Province but born in Port Moresby Your favourite hangout? and the villages along that route is town, just a stone’s throw from and raised across the Pacific. I love drinking coffee and tea, just magical, especially on a quiet Six Mile. Grab some beer with BALI What do you love about and the best place for specialty Sunday afternoon. The drive can some mates and enjoy the Port Moresby? coffee, with decent ambience and do wonders to your soul. And the 360-degree panoramic views I love that Port Moresby (POM) is great customer service, is Duffy’s. roadside markets are a bonus. of the countryside. a melting pot of people and culture. The Harbourside location has Culture fix? Not everyone looks the same or amazing views of the water and is Tabari place, Boroko. It’s right near speaks the same language. Most within walking distance to other where I work so if I’m looking to POM residents aren’t originally restaurants, just in case you want buy something for my family or from Port Moresby or the Central something more filling. The Duffy’s

September – October 2017 23 traveller OUR region City secrets

HONG KONG What do you love about three hours, through Pok Fu Lam Hong Kong? Country Park. If the weather is nice, The people. It’s a very attractive, I go to the beach at Repulse Bay, busy city, but if you ask people for Shek O Beach or Stanley. I like to go to directions they will stop and try to Culture fix? Cheung Chau help you. Their smiles come from Chi Lin Nunnery is a Buddhist Island. It’s mostly the heart. People work very hard temple in Kowloon near Diamond here, but on Sundays they go to Hill. It’s a beautiful building, dating fishermen who Stanley or Repulse Bay to relax. from the 1930s but was rebuilt in live there. You can Your favourite hangout? 1998 in Tang Dynasty style. It’s I like to go to Cheung Chau Island. surrounded by lotus ponds and circle the island in It’s mostly fishermen who live there bougainvillea. I also like Wong Tai an hour – or you but people are friendly and less Sin, a Daoist temple, nearby. can rent a bike. stressed. If you walk, you can Place that most surprised you? circle the island in an hour – or The art galleries and cafes in you can rent a bike. Don’t miss the industrial Wong Chuk Hang. row of seafood restaurants on I used to live there so it was The local: Sidney Luk the waterfront. really surprising to visit 3/3rds cafe What he does: A Hong Kong tour A night out with the boys? at the top of Yally Industrial Building guide who was born in the city The Jumbo floating restaurant in recently. I was familiar with the and has lived there most of his life, Aberdeen is an iconic Hong Kong area but not from the rooftop except for a few years in France. experience. It’s easy to get a seat angle. It shows Hong Kong is and the dim sum is good. I also like changing all the time. I would

Sidney Luk ... Hong Kong tour guide (above left); likes the Peking duck at Star House in Kowloon. Peking Garden at Star House in never have dreamed there would Kowloon. It’s famous for its Peking be a cafe there. duck and there’s no need to order Best-kept secret about it in advance. Skye Restaurant in Hong Kong? Causeway Bay is good for a special People don’t realise there are night too. natural places in Hong Kong. Place to relax? It’s not all tall buildings and a I like to go to The Peak (Victoria cement jungle. There are beaches Peak) where I can look out over and hiking areas only half an hour Hong Kong and Kowloon. Lockhart away. If I have time, I like to Road is flat so you can walk around go for a four or five-hour hike The Peak easily. Or you can hike on the Sai Kung Peninsula, which down to Aberdeen, which is about is unspoilt.

24 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region City secrets

BRISBANE

There are so many great cafes and restaurants with outside areas that Your favourite hangout? Best-kept secret about let you enjoy the Coffee at Portside Wharf by the Brisbane? great Brisbane water, followed by seeing a movie Sam’s Seafood has the best fresh weather. at the cinema there. oysters, prawns and sometimes A night out with the boys? outstanding muddies (mud crabs). Urbane or Stokehouse Q. I shop there almost fortnightly for Stokehouse Q has unbeatable the best-quality seafood. It’s a The local: Li Cunxin views of the river that make dining favourite destination to get the right What he does: Queensland Ballet there an absolute joy. Urbane has ingredients for the perfect Sunday artistic director. Author of best- a great ambience and an always brunch with family and friends. interesting multi-course menu (for selling book Mao’s Last Dancer, Li Cunxin ... Queensland Ballet Li moved to Brisbane in 2012. both meat-eaters and vegetarians). artistic director (right); one of It has an excellent wine list that his favourite restaurants, Urbane What do you love about (above); a dish from Urbane (left). Brisbane? never disappoints. Both have The great thing about Brisbane impeccable service, which is something I value greatly. is that, although it’s Take the worry out of finding staff and Place to relax? smaller than other office accommodation in Port Moresby cities I have Noosa and previously lived Coolangatta; both in and much are only about an hour’s drive from Strickland Real Estate combines more relaxed, 50 years of local experience with it’s still quite Brisbane. a client orientated approach to cosmopolitan. Culture fix? provide a full range of real estate There are so Due to my role services that will meet all your many great cafes as artistic director requirements. and restaurants here of Queensland Ballet, • Commercial and now – and so many have residential sales I get to experience a lot of the and leasing outside areas that let you enjoy amazing offerings of our city’s the great Brisbane weather. To • Rental cultural institutions. I always management me, it’s the perfect balance of appreciate any work by our fellow services relaxed with bustling and energetic. performing arts companies, be it • Market I love Brisbane people, they’re theatre or music. I thoroughly enjoy appraisals wonderfully hospitable, friendly and the great cultural precinct that • Property generous. I love the sense of space takes in our galleries, museum and consultations – it’s never too crowded. And I love our second home in the Queensland Please contact us the river. The water adds beauty Performing Arts Centre. +675 320 0944 or +675 7924 1200 and tranquillity to the city. Finally, Place that most surprised you? [email protected] I love Brisbane for its enormous Philip Bacon Galleries is a surprise www.sre.com.pg potential and bright future. discovery. I’m incredibly impressed by its elegant display and the high standard of the artists’ works.

September – October 2017 25 traveller OUR region City secrets

Janet DeNeefe ... founder/director of the Ubud Writers Festival (below left); Tandjung Sari Hotel (above); local bites (below).

BALI fave hangout that is relatively quiet plant-based cocktails till late, in and tucked away. If time permits, a cosy, modern setting. I stay overnight at Amarta Beach Place to relax? I love the food Inn Bungalows for the full tropical My ultimate relaxation is to lie by sleep-under-palm-trees beachfront the beach and read a book. The of course. My experience. If not, I take a day ocean never fails to clear my mind waistline is in trip there and swim in the crystal of ‘stuff’, especially post-festivals, clear waters, then have lunch at and Tandjung Sari Hotel in Sanur constant lament. the Amarta restaurant, is my ultimate favourite which is pretty good for this. You can’t go because it is run by past their elegant The local: Janet DeNeefe a French woman – Balinese-style What she does: Founder/director meaning you can charm, attention of the Ubud Writers Festival, owner get a decent to detail and of Casa Luna restaurant. She has chilled glass of seaside location lived in Bali for more than 30 years. wine. with a view of the What do you love about Bali? A night out with lofty Mount Agung. I love the laid-back way of life that the girls? Their Indonesian food is also very warm and human. I Nowadays, a night is fantastic too. spend a lot of my time attending out with the girls in Ubud Culture fix? ceremonies – even though I means margaritas and mahjong. I love going to Neka Museum don’t always feel like going, the And Bar Luna, in the basement of in Ubud. Within its network of investment made in family and Casa Luna, is where we meet, for a small buildings, you will find community is always worth it. night of serious fun. Apart from my the most comprehensive I love the food, too, of course. own places for happy hour, Bridges display of Balinese artwork, My waistline is in constant lament. also has a super-charming bar that from traditional to contemporary, is perfect for an intimate tete-a- Your favourite hangout? with exceptional paintings by tete. The Night Rooster bar in Jalan Sengkidu by the sea, near Donald Friend, Arie Smit, Willem Dewi Sita is a new kid on the block Candidasa, is an absolute Hofker and other western artists that dishes out all sorts of groovy, lured by the beauty of Bali.

26 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region City secrets

Place that most surprised you? was born in Malaysia, grew up in away and in Hong Kong’s shadow. The Bali Safari Park is surprisingly Sarawak and has lived in Macau for You can get lost but you won’t good with an amazing collection two years. be lost. of jungle animals, including, white Your favourite hangout? tigers, who actually look pretty On weekends, Coloane Island is happy. It is Bali, after all. The park is I like to eat great because it’s never too packed. perfect for children and families. I like breakfast at Lord Stow’s new Best-kept secret about Bali? Portuguese food garden cafe behind the bakery Denpasar is Bali’s best-kept at A Petisqueira (famous for Portuguese egg tart). secret. I love the traditional food There are good fruit and vegetable and warungs (small family owned or Antonio’s. The shops in the village. It’s nice to businesses) that are tucked away chicken wings at swim at Cheoc Van pool on the in the back streets near the central Old Taipa Tavern beach, or eat at Miramar restaurant. market. If you want an authentic A night out with the girls? Indonesian experience, this is the are excellent. I go to Taipa Village. I like to start place. It’s old-world Bali of the most with an early drink before the sun delicious kind. goes down at one of the rooftop What do you love about Macau? bars such as Casa de Tapas. Near MACAU It’s a little bit of Europe, China the market there are some local The local: Karen Kang and Asia – a melding together little Chinese restaurants that What she does: Public relations of Western influence and Asian have plastic chairs and are very director at St Regis Hotel. She culture. Macau is small, it’s hidden reasonably priced. I also like to eat

28 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region City secrets

Portuguese food at A Petisqueira or Place that most surprised you? Antonio’s. The chicken wings at OTT We have beautiful Portuguese (Old Taipa Tavern) are excellent. squares in Macau. I didn’t expect Place to relax? to find the Portuguese influence so I walk around Nam Van Lake and prominent still. A lot of the words look at the colonial houses on in Bahasa come from Portuguese Penha Hill. There are great views words, which I didn’t know until I of Macau from Our Lady of Penha came here. church without the bustle of Best-kept secret about Macau? Senado Square. I’m not the most outdoorsy person Culture fix? but we have some beautiful walking Taipa Houses Museum is trails. I’ve done the eight-kilometre fascinating, with its mix of Catholic Coloane Trail around the hills on the and Chinese beliefs. We also island. There’s a great coffee shop have some top shows in Macau near the old ship-building area, such as the House of Dancing Hon Kee Coffee, where they grind Water – I took my parents there and brew their own coffee and recently. The Monkey King show the food is very local. They do the is great for families. Last year the favourite Macanese breakfast of Philadelphia Orchestra and Lang macaroni soup. Karen Kang ... St Regis Hotel public relations director (left); one of the Lang performed. 'beautiful squares' in Macau (above).

September – October 2017 29 traveller OUR region City secrets

TOKYO What do you love about Tokyo? Nezu area, where the traditional I love Tokyo because it is a city architecture is preserved. It feels where the traditional and modern like going back in time. coexist. I particularly like the A night out with the girls? There are several downtown (‘shita-machi’) areas of I usually go to dinner with my natural hot springs Asakusa, Yanaka and Ueno where friends. I love to explore good in the middle the character of the old town still restaurants such as Tofuya Ukai, survives. I also like Kagurazaka Insho Tei and Cicada with them and of the city: you where Japanese and Western enjoy girl talk over gourmet foods. can bathe while cultures coexist: it retains the I also like to go to exhibitions and atmosphere of the Japanese concerts at Chanel Nexus Hall looking at a Hanamachi (geisha teahouse with them. district) with a significant French beautiful Japanese Place to relax? presence. garden. I love having picnics in Your favourite hangout? Chidorigafuchi, Yoyogi, Shinjuku I enjoy exploring Omotesando Gyoen and Ueno parks and the (where I used to go to school), Midtown Garden. These are The local: Kayoko Ohtsuki Daikanyama and Nakameguro all famous for ohanami, cherry What she does: Architect since these areas are constantly blossom viewing, during spring. and founder of BAKOKO Design changing. There are lots of stylish If I want to get away, I visit beaches Development. She has lived in cafes and shops around Cat Street, in Onjuku, Chiba and Kamakura Tokyo for eight years. which attracts hipster types. I also and Kanagawa. Kayoko Ohtsuki … co-founded her own architecture practice. like to hang out around the Yanaka/

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Culture fix? in Asakusa, which has been around There are so many interesting since the Edo period. museums and galleries in Tokyo. Best-kept secret about Tokyo? For architecture, I visit Nezu Atago Shrine is a small but Museum, Shoto Museum and 21-21 charming Japanese Shinto shrine Design Sight. Gallery Ma, Mori Art in the business district near Museum, Bunkamura Museum and Toranomon. It’s famous for its long, National Art Centre Tokyo show steep, ancient stone staircase – the creative exhibitions. Shusse no Ishidan (stone staircase Place that most surprised you? of success). People believe that Amazingly, there are several natural climbing the staircase without any hot springs in the middle of the rest and praying at the shrine will city. Tokyo Somei Onsen Sakura in make them successful. There is also Komagome offers the traditional a tranquil Japanese pond where Japanese outdoor hot spring colourful koi fish swim. Whenever experience: you can bathe while I visit to pray and meditate, I feel looking at the beautiful Japanese refreshed. It is the shrine where I garden and, in the spring, the cherry had my wedding ceremony. blossoms. There is also a black – WITH ROBERT UPE water hot spring, Jakotsuyu Sento

Cherry blossoms ... a Tokyo sight to behold in spring.

WHAT OUR LOCALS LIKE Coffee at Sleeping under The sweeping Duffy’s in Port palm trees on city views of Moresby. the beach in Hong Kong Bali. from Victoria Mud crabs in Peak. Brisbane. Spectacular shows, such as Cherry the House of blossoms in Dancing Water, Tokyo parks. in Macau.

Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby to all of the cities featured. To get to Macau, fly to Hong Kong and connect with the ferry. See airniugini.com.pg.

32 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

traveller OUR country A PNG SHOWCASE The Goroka Show is one of PNG’s biggest cultural festivals. Susan Gough Henly reports.

apua New evolved into one of the country’s major tourist Festival, which focuses on educating children Guinea’s longest- attractions. The show attracts spectators about their cultural heritage. Some of the cutest running annual from all over PNG, as well as hundreds of kids on the planet showcase their dance moves P cultural festival, international travellers. with painted faces and traditional dress. the Goroka Show, now in its 61st year, takes More than 100 tribes perform extraordinary This is followed by two days of performances place in all its technicolour glory in Goroka sing-sings, traditional songs and dances by a wide diversity of tribal groups showing in the Eastern Highlands on the weekend of in spectacular tribal regalia, to the beat of off their vibrant cultural costumes, many September 15–17. Dubbed the most colourful distinctive kundu drums. In a country renowned with brightly coloured feathers and striking show on earth, it is one of the key events of for its brightly coloured birds and butterflies, face paint. PNG’s Independence Day celebrations. there is no surprise that this festival is so Some of the most distinctive groups include Started in the 1950s as a means of gathering creative and flamboyant. the Simbai Beetle Dancers whose headdresses together different tribes and clans, today it has The three-day event starts with the Pikinini are made of hundreds of tiny green beetles

All the colour of the show ... scenes from the Gorokoa Show, one of the biggest cultural gatherings of tribes and clans in PNG. PICTURES: KERYN HARGREAVES; DAVID KIRKLAND, PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY

34 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR country

assembled to form the shape of giant beetles on the wearers’ heads. The Huli Wigmen sport wigs, which take fellow tribesmen 18 months to grow, dotted with feathers and shells. Their faces are painted red and butter yellow and each has a cassowary feather through the nose. Their grass skirts are adorned with belts of dangling pig tails. The Mudmen from the Asaro Valley wear distinctive masks made from a cream clay baked in the sun. Their bodies are also painted with clay and they creep around with bows and arrows.

September – October 2017 35 traveller OUR region A PNG showcase

The Oro Butterfly Dancers (from the southeast people line up to try and catch a grease-covered including kaukau (sweet potato), lamb flaps, coast where the world’s largest butterfly, the pig (the winner gets the pig), target shooting, bambu (meat and greens cooked inside a tube Queen Alexandra’s birdwing butterfly, is found) wood chopping, pony rides, magicians, pillow of bamboo over a fire) and wan maus, Pidgin for are renowned for their tapa cloth and tattoos, fights and fireworks. ‘want more’, which in this case means bite-size while the Whip dancers from New Britain A wide range of art and craft is on sale, mouthfuls of meat wrapped in greens. feature heavily painted, coiffed young men who including hand-woven bilums (baskets), masks, Air Niugini flies from Port are whipped as part of an initiation ceremony. bows and arrows, kina shell necklaces, beads Moresby to Goroka twice daily. Popular events for local show goers include and much more. See airniugini.com.pg. flower displays, a greasy pig competition where There is also a tantalising array of local foods

IF YOU GO STAYING THERE net.pg), Kanda Rest House there is access by road from SHOW PASS Local accommodation includes ([email protected]), GK Lae, Madang and Mount Hagen. Invest in VIP passes for all three the Bird of Paradise Hotel Lodge (gklodge.net) and Red days of the show. You can buy SHOW TIPS (coralseahotels.com.pg/ River Lodge (redriverlodge@ these on arrival either at the To ensure an enjoyable index.php/locations/bird- live.com). Bird of Paradise Hotel or the time, book your flights and of-paradise-hotel), Pacific Many hotels are booked two show grounds, where the lines accommodation in advance. It Gardens Hotel (pacifichotel. years in advance. can be long. is worth arriving at least a day com.pg), Lutheran Guest House GETTING THERE before the show starts because MORE INFORMATION (luthguesthausgka@global. Apart from Air Niugini flights fog can mean that flights are gorokaevents.com net.pg), Emmanuelle Lodge from Port Moresby to Goroka, delayed or cancelled. (emmanuellodge@global.

inflightParadise Mag_postpng qty ad.indd 5 7/27/2017 9:57:02 AM 36 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region Cake and tea, Fijian style Fiona Harper visits Lo’s Tea House in Fiji, where the chocolate and banana cake, served with lemon-leaf tea, has become as legendary as the smiley host. ula bula, welcome to Lo’s Tea sits us down inside and away from the blustery in the early days, House,” says Loraina Masibuli as southeast trade winds that buffet the beach sometimes just two or three each week. we walk into Enedala village on a few metres from her door. She tells us how “I didn’t have anything in the beginning, I “BNanuya Lailai Island. “Call me Lo,” she established the teahouse with her husband, had to borrow everything to get the tea house she says with a dazzling smile. Voka, 16 years ago. started,” Lo explains. Twenty minutes earlier we had left behind “My husband is a chief at Nabukero village She says she would go to nearby tourist the tranquil waters of Fiji’s famed Blue Lagoon near the Sawa-i-lau Caves in the northern resorts to encourage travellers to visit her. Beach Resort, taking a well-trodden path Yasawa Islands,” Lo says. His chiefly duties In recent years, Lo’s star has risen. Travellers through a coconut plantation, down a valley, keep him from home most of the time so come from across the globe to indulge in her across a river and over a ridge to get to the that he returns to Enedala village just once a special chocolate and banana cakes, served tea house. month. With her husband absent, the first 10 with traditional lemon-leaf tea. “The tea is Even by Fijian standards, Enedala village is Anituayears Mining were half-page tough for adentrepreneurial - Mining • 185x120 Lo as she Paradise the best.Magazine It makes xxxx.0215 you healthy and strong,” tiny. It has just 11 families and 30 people. Lo established the business. Visitors were sparse she says.

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38 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region

She ducks outside to a healthy looking shrub Our conversation is interrupted by Lo’s and plucks a handful of leaves from the bush. four-year-old granddaughter who waltzes in, Lo’s charmingly ramshackle tea house red ribbon in her hair. “This is my naughty interior walls are lined with cotton cloth in granddaughter Mili,” Lo says. “She’s interested in colourful Fijian designs. External walls are clad the guests who come to the tea house. She runs in clapboard painted a vivid lime green and out greeting them bula, bula, bula,” Lo laughs, trimmed with burgundy shutters. Beach sand pulling Mili into her lap for an affectionate hug. that clings to our feet is as welcome inside as Lo’s is the kind of place where you could easily the hermit crabs that wander in confidently. while away a few hours, laughing and chatting As we sip tea and tuck into a generous wedge in true Fijian style. “I am very happy,” Lo sighs of chocolate cake dripping with chocolate contentedly. So too are her guests. frosting, Lo reveals the secret to the rich Lo’s Tea House is on the southeast coast smokiness of her cake. of Nanuya Lailai Island in Fiji’s Yasawa “My secret ingredient is fresh coconut milk Islands. Open daily. straight from the coconut,” she says. “We have plenty of coconuts here,” she laughs, spreading Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby her arms wide to indicate the coconut palms to Fiji three times a week. that dominate the landscape. See airniugini.com.pg. Shunning modern conveniences, Lo’s cakes are baked as her grandmother did, in a cast-iron pot over an open fire. “I bake my cakes using Cake and smiles … Loraina Masibuli with her granddaughter Mili (right); a generous wedge of firewood, rather than using gas, which gives the chocolate cake, cooked in the traditional way them a special taste,” she says. (opposite page).

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September – October 2017 39 traveller OUR region

A mixed bag in Yokohama Just outside Tokyo, this port town is a blend of the traditional and modern. Julian Ryall reports.

owhere in Japan are the old and the embassies and the homes of wealthy business Today, it is protected as a time capsule and new, the homegrown and the foreign, people were constructed, taking advantage of visitors can see its state rooms, smoking the modern and the traditional brought the cooler summer breezes and overlooking all lounges and stand on the bridge – before Ntogether as in Yokohama. that went on in the harbour. stopping by the stern promenade deck for Other cities in Japan do not seem to care A good portion of The Bluff is taken up by ice-cold beers and traditional Japanese summer that they have lost their souls to concrete and the heavily wooded Yokohama foreign general snacks accompanied by a live jazz band. glass blocks that tower over temples, traditional cemetery. And while a visit may sound Just inland from the park stands the renovated gardens and the narrow back streets of age-old macabre, it provides a fascinating glimpse into Marine Tower. At 106 metres, it is listed as the shitamachi districts. the lives of people who have made this city their tallest lighthouse in the world – and a block And while Yokohama’s skyline has certainly further inland is the buzzing Chinatown district. changed, the city’s elders have managed to link The boundaries of the district are marked progress to the city’s history, making it arguably by four main gates and six smaller but equally the most international and culturally diverse “Home now to more elaborately designed entrance ways. The four metropolis in the country. than 3.7 million people, larger gateways are sited at the four points Home now to more than 3.7 million people, of the compass and invoke demi-gods, such Yokohama is Japan’s second-largest city. But Yokohama is Japan’s as dragons and tigers. Similar traditional in 1849, it was a sleepy village of around 100 second-largest city.” architectural designs form part of the Kantei- homes whose inhabitants made a living as Byo Temple, constructed in 1862. fishermen supplying the city that was growing Other parts of the city have undergone into Tokyo, less than 30 kilometres away. significant redevelopment in recent years, such Fate intervened in that year, when US Navy home down the years. The 4200 tombs include as the Bayside Area, a reclaimed island that commodore Matthew Perry landed a few adventurers, sailors, artists and ordinary folk – was already home to the vast World Porters kilometres to the south and requested that including many who were victims of the 1923 shopping mall – with arguably the best sushi in Japan open up to international trade after Great Kanto earthquake. Yokohama at the Misaki-Megumi restaurant – 200 years of self-imposed isolation. The quake triggered fires and a tsunami. and the Yokohama Cosmo World theme park, Four years later, the Tokugawa shogunate With so many buildings in the old waterfront which can be spotted from anywhere in the city agreed to transfer international access to district destroyed, it was decided that the thanks to its colossal Ferris wheel. Yokohama, and the hamlet began its evolution. debris would be used to construct an open area The area around the main train station is home Today, the oldest reminders of the roots of on the seafront, known as Yamashita Park. It to some of Japan’s top department stores, but Yokohama’s foreign community – when it was is a Afavourite today among young couples: venture a little further away and explore the a gated foreign settlement in the Kannai district, the waves lap the stonework and buskers streets where the uniquely Japanese game of where the baseball stadium now stands – have perform amid fountains and a rose garden. pachinko pinball is played in raucous arcades, been preserved in The Bluff district. Moored off the front lies the Hikawa Maru, a and stalls sell grilled yakitori skewers. Overlooking the Nakamura River and the luxury passenger liner launched in 1929 to sail Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby up-market Motomachi shopping street – where between Japan and the US. to Tokyo twice weekly. See shops sell Mikimoto pearls and Kitamura In its heyday, the liner carried royalty and stars airniugini.com.pg. handbags – the hill rises to the area where of the silver screen – including Charlie Chaplin.

40 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region

Cook Islands revelations

PICTURES: COOK ISLANDS TOURISM, MATTHEW ELLIS Cook Islands landscape ... a green hinterland and tall mountains surrounded by the Pacific Ocean.

They’re just a bit further away from Port Moresby than Fiji, but the Cook Islands are unknown to many travellers. Craig Tansley was raised on Rarotonga, the biggest of the 15 islands in the chain, and tells why it’s worth visiting his home.

42 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region

The lagoon is home to a collection of small uninhabited islets (motu) you can travel between on a day tour, or by chartering your own speedboat.

It’s like a mini-Tahiti, a beer, about PGK12). What’s It’s small and easy 30 minutes. What’s more, the minus the price tag more, the Cook Islands and French to navigate speed limit’s a leisurely 50kmh, Tall mountains, a green Polynesia share so many of the Other islands throughout the meaning it’s the perfect place to 1hinterland, a blue lagoon and same characteristics – they have 2South Pacific, like Samoa hire a scooter. It also means the a fringing reef – Rarotonga’s just the same national dish (raw fish and Fiji, require visitors to spend best place for sunrise is no more like a smaller version of Tahiti, cooked in lime juice with coconut plenty of time in vehicles getting than 15 minutes from the best only without the prices. Tahiti is milk), the same kind of national from attraction to attraction. place for sunsets. the most expensive island in the flower (tiare tahit and tiare maori) Not Rarotonga. It’s just 69 Pacific, whereas the Cook Islands and the same evocative dance. square kilometres, and you can are reasonable (think $NZ5 for drive around the whole island in

September – October 2017 43 traveller OUR region 10 Cook Islands revelations

You’ll find the best listening to local musicians. Happy There are islands with You’ll get an insight into traditional sunset bars in the Pacific hours make for cheap cocktails no other tourists Polynesian family life. Rarotonga’s These are the sunset bars and interesting conversation, as You could spend all your time surrounding islands offer a 3of your imagination – the families fossick for limpets on the 4on Rarotonga, but you can fascinating insight into how life sort conjured up in the pages of reef in front. find islands where as few as 20 was, as well as offering perfect a Somerset Maugham novel (who tourists visit all year, all within an uncrowded beaches, swimming visited here in the 1930s). Try The hour’s plane ride. On islands like holes, underground caves and rare Waterline (waterline-restaurant. Mitiaro, Mangaia and Atiu you’re endemic birds. com), Wilson’s Bar (castawayvillas. likely to be the only tourist there. com) and Aro’a Beachside Inn’s Shipwreck Hut (aroabeach.com/ shipwreck _ hut.htm) along Rarotonga’s west coast in the district of Aorangi. You can sit and watch sunset with the locals, while

44 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region 10 Cook Islands revelations

It’s one gigantic whale No high-rise buildings or sanctuary peak-hour traffic The Cook Islands sit in over There are twice-daily peak- 5two million square kilometres 6hour traffic jams in nations of Pacific Ocean – all of it classified all over the Pacific and you’ll find whale sanctuary. Because the high-rise hotels spread throughout ocean beside the islands slopes the islands of Melanesia and down drastically, humpbacks Polynesia. But not in the Cook swim exceptionally close to Islands. The constitution states no shore. On Rarotonga’s northern building be taller than a coconut coastline you can see whales tree – and there are no chain hotels 100 metres from the beach. Or anywhere. And because there’s no go on a whale-watching boat tour major urban space, Rarotonga is (bluewatertours.com). free of any peak-hour traffic – just keep an eye out for wandering pigs.

PORT MORESBY SIGHTSEEING TOURS

We invite visitors to Port Moresby to join us on one of our half day and full day sightseeing tours. Visit the Nature Park and see PNG’s ora and fauna. The National Museum, the National Parlaiment Haus, Bomana War Cemetery, the largest WWII cemetery in the South Pacic and much more. Experience a “Kokoda Taster” and take a day’s walk up to Imita Ridge. facebook.com/pngtrekkingadventures/ [email protected] Phone: +675 325 1284/ Mobile: +675 7686 6171/ Aus. Phone: 1300 887 496

46 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller OUR region 10 Cook Islands revelations

.Fish like the Polynesians Go deep-sea fishing with 7locals who shun technology and use traditional techniques to locate fish. So don’t expect morning tea and polite chat, this is serious stuff and when the biggest tuna, or mahi mahi, in the sea takes your hook, you better pull it in so you don’t disappoint the locals (fishingrarotonga.com/ FishingRarotonga.html).

September – October 2017 47 traveller OUR region 10 Cook Islands revelations

Cook Islanders are the extroverts of the Pacific 8Eating out is the national pastime in Rarotonga – for such a sleepy place, Rarotonga boasts the most lively bar scene of anywhere in the South Pacific. There are beachside bars all over the island, including the South Pacific’s most iconic institution, Trader Jacks (traderjacks cookislands.com) built right on Avatiu Harbour. You’ll also find some great restaurants on Rarotonga. Try Polynesian dishes with a modern twist in an old colonial home on the lagoon at Tamarind House (tamarindrarotonga. com), a local Penrhyn Rakahanga favourite. Pukapuka Manihiki Nassau d s n Suwarrow a s l i k o o Port c Moresby

You’ll find the prettiest You can sail or kite-surf between Palmerston Aitutaki lagoon in the South the islets –the lagoon’s one of the Manuae Pacific world’s kite-surfing hot spots. The 0 Km 500 Takutea Mitiaro Atiu 9Bora Bora’s lagoon might concept for Survivor was born here Mauke hog the limelight, but Aitutaki’s with British TV series Shipwrecked Rarotonga gigantic, equilateral-triangle- in 1999, and a series of Survivor Mangaia shaped lagoon has no five-star was filmed here in 2006. hideaway resorts, meaning the Pacific. There are over 30 round, and water visibility is usually visitors have open access to It’s a diving hot spot dive sites across Rarotonga and around 60 metres. You’ll see every centimetre of the lagoon. Because the Cook Aitutaki, which suit everyone from hundreds of fish species and over It’s home to a collection of small Islands drop straight into beginners to experts, and most 70 types of coral (diverarotonga. 104500-metre-deep ocean, uninhabited islets (motu) you can sites are less than 10 minutes by com, pacificdivers.co.ck). travel between on a day tour, or by divers experience some of the boat. The water temperature sits See cookislands.travel. chartering your own speedboat. steepest oceanic drop-offs in between 23 and 28 degrees year-

48 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region PICTURES: KEN HOPPEN & ODYSSEY ADVENTURES Graveyard of ships, planes Ken Hoppen delves into the depths of Micronesia’s Chuuk Lagoon, which is littered with World War 2 wrecks.

or two days in 1944, all hell rained down Many of the wrecks are for experienced on Chuuk Lagoon. Operation Hailstone, divers, with the average depth of diving more sometimes called the ‘Japanese Pearl than 30 metres. There is plenty to see outside FHarbour,’ was a World War 2 airstrike One of the most the wrecks, but more experienced divers can by the US. head inside to see the cramped spaces of the The airstrike effectively wiped out this comfortable ways to holds and engine rooms. part of Micronesia as a major base for the access the diving is on In such tight spaces, a diver’s finning Japanese war effort. The Americans destroyed technique must be perfect to avoid stirring three airfields, many aircraft, buildings, and the luxury live-aboard up the silt and rust that lies on the bottom gun emplacements; and sunk over 40 ships dive vessel, the Odyssey. in all of these rooms. Those that can’t, quickly in the lagoon. find that the visibility is reduced to zero as The ships now serve as a reminder of Their dive briefings are the muck clouds the water, making the turbulent times. Amazingly well preserved, the best that I have wreck a very dangerous place to be in for the considering their time in a saltwater experienced, and the dive unwary. Thankfully the Odyssey’s dive guides environment, they act as a beacon to divers are all very knowledgeable about the routes and are Chuuk’s main tourist attraction, making sites match the standard around the innards of these vessels, and it the best wreck-dive location in the world. of the vessel. can safely lead divers through areas that One of the most comfortable ways to access suit their abilities. the diving is on the luxury live-aboard dive There are several must-dive wrecks in the vessel, the Odyssey. lagoon. Most weeks start off with some of It has spacious accommodation for 16, the easier wrecks, in terms of depth and a large dive deck, beautiful lounge and dining Most of the vessels sunk here were passenger penetration. Visibility on these wrecks is areas, great meals and excellent dive guides. liners, converted into cargo ships and submarine generally excellent, and there are no currents, Their dive briefings are the best that I have tenders. There are a few destroyers, and a making the dives much easier. experienced, and the dive sites match the submarine too, though most of the warships My week started at the Heian Maru. (Maru is standard of the vessel. had left the harbour just before the attack. the Japanese term for merchant ship.)

50 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region

Getting wrecked ... 20 metres below the surface, a diver floats over a Betty bomber (opposite page); the live-aboard Odyssey (above); the Odyssey's dining room (left); an air compressor in the engine room of the Fujikawa Maru (right).

This vessel is lying on its port side in 35 metres Blacktip, grey-reef and silvertip sharks come to the visibility here is usually excellent. Bottom of water, with the starboard side in 18 metres, feed on the bait and delight the watching divers. times are short due to the extreme depths, and making it an easy dive for most. It is one of The best wreck in the lagoon, and possibly decompression stops long, but this dive alone the larger vessels in the lagoon, at around the world, is left for late in the trip. The makes the trip worthwhile. 156 metres long. San Francisco Maru lies upright in just over Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby As a first dive here, it is jaw-dropping. 60 metres of water. The top of the mast is to Chuuk every Wednesday and Dropping down near the bow, the huge shape around the 30-metre mark, and the deck Saturday. See airniugini.com.pg. of the wreck becomes apparent. Easy access is at 50 metres, making it a dive only for the to the forward hold shows divers massive experienced. armament shells, once destined for a Japanese For those who are able to dive it, the tag of battleship. ‘Million Dollar Wreck’ is automatically apparent. Divers then pass through the superstructure, It still has most of its cargo intact. Three battle along walkways to the stern of the ship where tanks sit on the deck at 50 massive propellers and a huge rudder await, metres, as does a truck, before a slow ascent takes them to the deco slightly leaning over the bar for an obligatory stop before returning to side and pointing down at NEED TO KNOW the dive boat. its twin, which now resides DIVING THERE The Hoki Maru has a hold filled with trucks, on the seafloor below. Seven-night trips on the Odyssey the Nippo Maru has a tank on its main deck, and Descending into its holds, , with up to five dives daily, start from $US3195. the Fujikawa Maru has a hold filled with Zero divers see more trucks, All nine cabins have ensuites. aeroplane bodies and motors, all at a depth of 35 hemispherical shaped land MORE INFORMATION trukodyssey.com metres or less. For something different, a Betty mines, boxes full of cordite, bomber lies just short of the airfield on Etten and more. Island, one of several plane wrecks in the area. The bow gun is particularly The Odyssey also does a shark dive at Pizion impressive, and due to Passage, a southern entrance to the lagoon. the depth and location

September – October 2017 51 traveller our region Vanuatu chill-out anuatu, a chain of 83 through a tropical rainforest or Liz Porter finds tropical islands in the along a beach. Or take a 50-minute a resort where Pacific, has all the flight to the island of Espiritu Santo, Vmakings of an adventure inspiration for James Michener’s the daily routine tourist’s dream: rugged mountains, book Tales of the South Pacific. volcanoes, lush tropical rainforests There are also places for people involves leisurely and coral reefs full of marine who just want to loll in a hammock breakfasts, wildlife. And this island republic, on a beautiful beach and read, under joint English–French rule getting up only to swim lazily snorkelling, until independence in 1980, is easy through clear azure waters and to get to. admire the fish. The aptly named reading and lying Air Niugini has two flights a week Paradise Cove resort, on Mele Bay, in a hammock. from Port Moresby to Vanuatu’s nine kilometres from the bustling capital city of Port Vila, on the main Port Vila market, is one of them. island of Efate. A coral reef teeming with Vanuatu’s tourist brochures pulse colourful tropical fish begins about with suggested activities. You can three metres from the table where kayak, jet ski, parasail, snorkel, you enjoy your breakfast of coffee, scuba, cycle, or ride a horse croissant and papaya.

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52 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region

Here, a snorkelling trip requires The French couple and their neither bookings nor boat journey. two young sons were living on You merely stroll down a short their 21-metre yacht. Having jetty, descend a few steps and get resigned from their high-powered into the water. London-based investment banking The resort’s restaurant is one of jobs in 2006, the duo were sailing the best in the Port Vila area, with around the tropics. its Mediterranean menu drawing “We wanted to spend more time regular groups of locals. Guests with the kids,” says Besson. stroll around the resort’s luxuriant Mackain and Besson fell in tropical garden wearing the love with Vanuatu’s beautiful same blissed-out ‘I can’t believe I landscape and its smiling, relaxed discovered this place’ smile. people. It’s a facial expression that A few years later, they bought Paradise Cove’s owners, Constance the resort, renovating it and Paradise Cove Mackain and Marc Besson, extending it to its current 10 Euro- Resort ... the giant Melanesian-style know well. They were wearing it Melanesian-style villas. They also thatched roof themselves in 2009 when they drew on their own wide experience restaurant/bar is the anchored in Mele Bay, sailed their of five-star hotel business travel beating heart of the resort; (next page) dinghy up to a small jetty and to create a simpler, more personal one of the villas walked up on to the beach. They style of luxury: one based on tucked into lush had landed at a resort, but didn’t “space, tranquility and lots of gardens. need to stay there. staff ”.

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September – October 2017 53 traveller our region Vanuatu chill-out

Twenty-four local staff attend to facilities and their own book out the books on the shelves and glance at the board and return a maximum of 30 guests who are collections. And, while many play board games. their gaze to the garden and the served locally grown organic food guests take tours and try other The blackboard in the corner water. They’re already in paradise. and enjoy a complete absence of local eateries – such as the classic lists a dozen ‘Top Things to do in Why move? the constant receipt-signing French L’Houstalet or the Paradise’. It suggests the Tanna Air Niugini flies from that is a feature of modern Melanesian volcano tour: a trip, via air taxi and Port Moresby to Port conventional luxury The Watermark car, to the island of Tanna and its Vila twice a week. hotels. Here, – most spend Mount Yasur volcano. Or a back See airniugini.com.pg. guests simply at least some massage. Or a 20-minute stroll to help themselves part of their Honeymoon Beach. Many guests to beach day lolling on towels, snorkel a couch or bar gear, bikes, or stool in the kayaks, while giant Melanesian- NEED TO KNOW ‘check-in’ just means style thatched roof STAYING THERE being welcomed and structure that houses Paradise Cove has 10 villas: five two-bedroom handed a fresh coconut drink. the establishment’s restaurant/ and five one-bedroom, from about PGK900 a And there are no TVs in the rooms, bar and reception area. night, including continental breakfast. or anywhere in the resort. Called Nakamal, the name for MORE INFORMATION Accordingly, Paradise Cove tends the central meeting place in each paradisecoveresortvanuatu.com to attract guests who relish the village, it is the beating heart of art of relaxed conversation. All the resort. Guests come here to the villas have their own cooking use the Wi-Fi, to eat, drink, check

54 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region

City guide: Shanghai This dynamic Chinese megacity is coming on to Air Niugini’s radar, with flights due to start early next year. Brian Johnston goes exploring.

ew cities can match become the ultimate symbol of an interesting European colonial crowded, futuristic, China’s economic dynamism, heritage, Shanghai is a must- forward-looking Shanghai. bristling with skyscrapers, visit destination for its cultural FFrom humble beginnings as flashing with neon and heady creativity, vibrant and ever- a mere fishing village, it began with a can-do attitude. changing dining scene, shopping its climb to megacity less than While it has few historic sights and the energetic optimism of 200 years ago and has recently other than venerable temples and its inhabitants.

56 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region

GETTING AROUND SIGHTS SHANGHAI SPECIAL The subway (service.shmetro.com/en) is The Bund (officially Zhongshan Road) is lined Shanghai is full of skyscrapers, especially in the fast, efficient, cheap and extensive, though with European colonial buildings, many now Pudong district across the river from downtown. sometimes very crowded. Abundant taxis housing upmarket restaurants and hotels, and The still futuristic-looking Oriental Pearl Tower can be hailed on the street or found in front has a lively riverbank promenade with dazzling (orientalpearltower.com) and Jin Mao Tower of hotels. The Maglev (smtdc.com/en) that views of Pudong’s skyscrapers. (jinmao88.com) provided two of the city’s operates between Pudong airport and the The Huangpu district’s French Concession earliest observation decks, surpassed in 2007 city’s Pudong district is the world’s fastest is characterised by colonial mansions and by the Shanghai World Financial Centre (swfc- commercially operated train, topping 430kmh. tree-lined avenues, and is an agreeable area of shanghai.com) boasting an observation deck boutique shops, tea houses and parks. 477 metres above street level. Now, Shanghai The area known as Xintiandi is the epicentre Tower (shanghaitower.com.cn) has become of Shanghai’s nightlife. China’s tallest and the world’s second-tallest Yu Garden (218 Anren Road, Huangpu) was building (632 metres), currently being fitted out laid out in the 16th century and is one of the few and promising yet more vertiginous views of this Shanghai sights ... the city's towering financial area (opposite page); the main shopping street, historic sights in Shanghai. It features traditional city on the way up. Nanjing Road (above); colonial-era facades along courtyards, carp-filled ponds and pavilions with the Bund (above centre); a bird's-eye view from upturned red roofs. the observation deck at the Shanghai World Financial Centre (right).

September – October 2017 57 traveller our region City guide: Shanghai

CULTURE VULTURE Shanghai Museum (201 Renmin Avenue, Huangpu; shanghaimuseum.net) houses a fabulous array of Chinese artefacts, including ceramics, bronzes and sculptures. An excellent audio guide will take you around the highlights. Shanghai Old City (north of Fangbang Central Road, Huangpu) is an entertaining, themed recreation area lined by informal restaurants and tea houses. Its shops sell handicrafts, fans, lanterns and other traditional souvenirs. Ancient Longhua Temple (2853 Longhua Road, Xuhui) has a soaring pagoda and an incense- smoky main hall always busy with worshippers. It has a history dating back to 242 AD and is the city’s largest, most authentic temple complex. CHILD’S PLAY The cutting-edge Shanghai Science and Technology Museum (2000 Century Avenue, Pudong; sstm.org.cn) has interactive displays on topics such as health, astronomy and robotics, and an IMAX theatre screening science-related movies. The recently opened Shanghai Disney Resort (310 Huangzhao Road, Pudong; shanghaidisneyresort.com/en) is the world’s largest Disney park and uses impressive cutting-edge technology for rides. Shanghai Ocean Aquarium (1388 Lujiazui Ring Road, Pudong; sh-aquarium.com/en) boasts the world’s longest underwater tunnel and vast tanks featuring abundant exotic fish and other sea creatures.

Culture and play ... the Shanghai Museum (above); Shanghai Disney Resort (right).

58 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

traveller our region City guide: Shanghai

RETAIL THERAPY SPORTING LIFE ESCAPE The government-owned Shanghai Antique & Rise early and head down to the Bund or one of Laid out in the 19th century, Fuxing Park Curio Store (192 Guangdong Road, Huangpu) Shanghai’s parks for morning exercise, Chinese (516 Fuxing Central Road, Huangpu) has has good prices on quality goods such as style. You’re welcome to join groups practising shady trellised walkways, a rose garden jade, enamel ware, painted fans, ceramics, tai chi and other martial arts, or even ballroom and a spacious central lawn popular with calligraphy scrolls and furniture. dancing and traditional Chinese fan dancing. relaxing families. The huge indoor South Bund Fabric Market Shanghai has numerous first-class golf An hour’s train ride west of Shanghai brings (399 Lujiabang Road, Huangpu) brings together courses, including Sheshan International you to Suzhou (visitsz.com), a canal-bound city hundreds of stalls selling fabric – including Golf Club (288 Linyin New Road, Songjiang; famous for its many classical Chinese gardens Chinese silk – at bargain-basement prices. sheshangolf.com), which is scattered with lakes such as the 16th-century Garden of the Humble Onsite tailors can sew them into clothes. and groves of trees and has immaculate greens. Administrator and compact Master of the Nets Tianzifang (Lane 210, Taikang Road, Luwan) Basketball is very popular in China, and you Garden, laid out in 1140. is a venerable shopping street in the former can see superstar Yao Ming’s home team, Huangzhou (gotohz.com) is renowned in French Concession, lined with numerous arts the Shanghai Sharks, in action at Luwan China – and favoured by honeymooners – for and craft stores and small cafes. Stadium (128 Zhaojiabang Road, Huangpu; its beautiful lakeshore setting and surrounding shanghaisharks.cn) between November tea plantations, and is just a 90-minute train and April. ride away.

60 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region City guide: Shanghai

PILLOW TALK The legendary Fairmont Peace Hotel (20 Nanjing Road East, Huangpu; fairmont.com) has a great location near the Bund and has been returned to its art deco heyday; its jazz bar is quite the spot for an evening drink. Handy for nightlife, boutique hotel 88 Xintiandi (380 South Huangpi Road, Huangpu; selecthotels.com/88-xintiandi) has the atmosphere of a luxury private residence and has large rooms and helpful service. Kevin’s Old House (Lane 946, Changle Road; kevinsoldhouse.com) has six individually decorated rooms in a 1920s French-style villa scattered with antiques. WATERING HOLES Stylish steakhouse Char (585 Zhongshan East Second Road, Huangpu; char-thebund.com) sits on the trendy southern end of the Bund and has a great cocktail terrace with views over the river towards Pudong’s skyscrapers. Minimalist, self-described ‘seafood speakeasy’, The Plump Oyster (171 Jianguo Central Road, Huangpu) is perfect for late-night jazz, oyster tasting plates and 40-odd varieties of gin from around the world. The vaguely nautical-themed Captain’s Bar (37 Fuzhou Road, Huangpu; captainhostelshanghai. com) is part of a hostel just behind the Bund and has an easy-going, unpretentious vibe and reasonable prices, yet still has great terrace views.

Shanghai delights ... (opposite page, from left) neon signs in Nanjing Road; by the riverside at the Bund; the cocktail terrace at Char; view towards Pudong from the Fairmont Peace Hotel; bikes racked up at industrial-chic Cuivre, which serves French bistro food and Asian-inspired tapas.

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September – October 2017 61 traveller our region City guide: Shanghai

EATS TUCK IN Head to Shanghai Uncle (222 Yan’an East Road) Xiao longbao dumplings are perhaps Shanghai’s for contemporary versions of regional Shanghai most famous street snack; obsessed locals cuisine including smoked fish, braised pork in argue endlessly over which stalls and soy sauce and house-pulled noodle dishes. restaurants make the best. The perfect Remarkably, one of the first international dumpling has a thin, almost translucent skin restaurants to open in Shanghai remains on trend. that encloses a hot, richly flavoured broth. M on the Bund (5 Zhongshan East First Road; Picking one up in chopsticks without the skin m-restaurantgroup.com) features slow-baked bursting is a skill. Join the queues at Crystal lamb and the best view of Shanghai in town. Jade Restaurant (123 Xingye Road, Xintiandi) Minimalist, industrial-chic Cuivre (1502 Huaihai to try what many consider the best xiao Central Road; cuivre.cn) dishes up rustic French longbao (and many other dumpling varieties) bistro food (such as mussels with frites) and in the city. shared tapas-style dishes with Asian influences.

Air Niugini plans to start flights from Port Moresby to Shanghai in March. Eats ... fresh tuna served at Cuivre. See airniugini.com.pg. shanghai Population: 1.5 million Taxi fare from airport: Power: Language: Chinese Around 180RMB to the Bund area, though Three-hole outlets accommodate flat, angled Currency: Chinese yuan (RMB); very traffic dependent. prongs similar to those in PNG, Australia and 1 yuan = PGK0.45 International dialling code: +86 New Zealand.

62 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region

eco lod u ge ir it t out there s d s n ol a omon isl

On the edge ... the Titiru Eco Lodge has over-water bungalows (above) and comfortable beds with mosquito nets (below).

S he list of places that fall As befits a true ol and deserted cave – helmets and flashlights PNG om on Is lan into the category of an eco lodge, there ds islands as well as provided – are also part of the Port Moresby Redova idyllic escape may be long, is no air-con yet Island fishing charters. extraordinarily friendly service. Tbut that won’t stop two guests often reach The fine people at A walking tour around the Ughele over-water bungalows that opened for the blankets the lodge will cook fishing village, about a kilometre in the Solomon Islands in February once night and the whatever is caught. from the lodge, can also be part of 2017 from being added to the sea breeze turn on If you choose not to fish the experience. esteemed list. nature’s finely tuned cooling but like to eat them, Kilo’s staff According to one visitor, three or The Titiru Eco Lodge on Rendova system. will sort out a catch, often tuna, for four days is a good length of time Island is about a 40-minute boat Kilo Paza, the lodge’s owner, can your lunch and dinner. to stay. “You wouldn’t be doing it ride from Munda (which has direct organise day trips to nearby private Tours of a nearby underground justice if you came for less.” flights from the Solomon Island’s The new lodges are suitable for capital, Honiara). couples only (there is one double Titiru’s thatched-roof bungalows bed with a mosquito net over it). look out over an inlet bordered by A pair of two-bedroom over-water hedges of mangroves and, behind bungalows suitable for families is them, a perfectly imposing forest. scheduled to open soon. From a hammock on one of the The bungalows cost from about decks of the bungalows, visitors PGK720 a couple per night. The can look down upon coral, fish and rate includes breakfast, lunch and clams through water as clean and dinner. A return boat trip to Munda clear as a nearby spring, which costs about PGK180. offers fresh drinking water. The best time to visit is dry Anyone who gets a bit of a season, from March to November. swing going while in the hammock For more information, see will find themselves rocking out facebook.com/titiru.ecolodge. over the water. The bungalows’ – GREG CLARKE balconies also allow guests to Air Niugini flies from step straight into, or out of, a boat, Port Moresby to Honiara or to use the deck as a diving five times weekly. See platform. airniugini.com.pg.

64 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our region BY NINA KARNIKOWSKI

Three of a kind … private islands

YUO ISLAND, PNG BROTHER ISLAND, PHILIPPINES DOLPHIN ISLAND, FIJI This delightful small island, a one-hour boat A pristine sweep of white sand beach, There are 333 islands in the Fijian archipelago ride from Wewak, isn’t technically private fantastic snorkelling just 10 metres from but only one of them is genuinely private, since there are about five families living on the shore, traditional Filipino cuisine using meaning that when you book Dolphin you it. But Naigboi Guesthouse is the only place freshly caught seafood – it’s all there waiting have the entire island at your disposal. Just to stay and gives guests that castaway for you at Brother Island, the only exclusive a 15-minute boat ride north of Fiji’s main experience, for a fantastically low price private island for rent in El Nido. It’s all about island, Viti Levu, this little slice of paradise has too. Owner Robert Marek, and his wife and slowing down and sinking in here: lazing in a four elegant timber-floored, palm-thatched children, will make you feel part of the family, hammock, swimming and snorkelling in the bures with freestanding bathtubs and with his wife cooking up delicious seafood crystal waters, fishing and kayaking, exploring outdoor showers, and an impeccably styled meals, Marek telling you where the best the forest and, by night, lighting a bonfire and entertaining bure that’s home to the lounge snorkelling is, and his sons heading up spear- gazing up at a tapestry of stars. and dining room. Spend your days lazing by fishing expeditions. the infinity pool, kayaking, paddle boarding or SOMETHING SPECIAL snorkelling around the island with up to seven SOMETHING SPECIAL Host and owner, Alfred Lee, or ‘Alee’, who has friends, getting a massage or napping in the This isn’t a luxury property by any means; lived on the island since 1991, is renowned hilltop open-air bure. the traditional palm-thatched bungalows and for his friendliness, reliability and attention beach huts are basic, but very comfortable to detail. Also, because there’s zero Wi-Fi on SOMETHING SPECIAL and set right on the beach. Plus, feeling as Brother you will be completely in the moment Each night, as the Dolphin team prepares your though you’re part of the Marek family, who for the duration of your stay. pre-dinner cocktails, no less than 100 lanterns have lived on the island for over 80 years, is are lit and placed around the sprawling palm- DON’T MISS an experience money can’t buy. sprinkled lawns. Booking a beach massage or an island-hopping DON’T MISS tour, weaving through the karst formations out DON’T MISS Spending the extra PGK100 to take the trip to on those emerald-green waters. The food at Dolphin, whipped up by your lush Kairiru Island to visit the hot springs. personal chefs, is something to remember: PRICE + WEBSITE fresh prawns, fish and crayfish pulled from the PRICE + WEBSITE From about PGK1025 a night for the entire ocean each day and accompanied by seasonal PGK75 a night, per bungalow or beach hut; island and all meals; see airbnb.com. salads, fruit and antipasti. see naigboi.com. PRICE + WEBSITE From PGK2660 a person, per night; see dolphinislandfiji.com.

66 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our country

REVIEW: AIRWAYS HOTEL, PORT MORESBY airways.com.pg +675 324 5200

WHO STAYS? 95 per cent business travellers (there’s a 24/7 business centre), but also perfect if you need to overnight in Port Moresby between flights. HOW BIG? 147 keys. COST From PGK750, but keep an eye out for specials. CHECK IN and out 2pm/11am (flexible) Highlights Complimentary evening martini hour with hors d’oeuvres in the Dakota Lounge. NEARBY Jacksons International Airport LOCATION ROOMS Wi-Fi in rooms/public areas: On Jackson Parade, two minutes by car from The room styles include Bacchus (the entry Fee for Wi-Fi: Jacksons International Airport. level), Fountain, and Dakota (five stars). THE PLACE The spacious Dakota rooms (pictured) have TV: beautiful polished floorboards, Nespresso The Airways Hotel has been visited by coffee machines, marble bathrooms and Air conditioning in room: 23 prime ministers, royalty and business balconies. The Dakota Wing includes three leaders. Refined decor, attentive service, four Business centre: elegant lounges, one with a full-size snooker restaurants, and the Bliss day spa, with Thai Gym: table. The more basic Bacchus and Fountain styling, make it an oasis where you want to rooms are also well appointed with the Room service: be. Airways is possibly one of the best airport essentials, and even have turn-down service. Swimming pool: hotels anywhere in the Asia–Pacific region. Although it opened almost three decades ago, FOOD AND DRINKs Free airport transfers: it is fresh and contemporary thanks to multiple There are four tasteful choices: Seven Cs cafe; Hotel arranges tours: rejuvenations and new additions. There are Deli C and Vespa Room, which is a blend of 40 gardeners who look after the botanic-like Italian bistro and delicatessen; the poolside Breakfast included in room charge: gardens that have more than 240 species of Vue Restaurant and Lounge Bar, which lives WHAT GUESTS LIKE tropical plants, as well as a quirky DC3 aircraft up to its name with great views and buffets that creates an outdoor centrepiece. The (it’s where breakfast is served); and Bacchus, I can’t fault anything about this hotel. We had expansive grounds, with running track, are the hotel’s elegant-dining restaurant. Bacchus, a lovely buffet breakfast and dinner. The hotel well secured. There’s a fitness centre with with a new menu, is not only the best place compound is very safe and secure. – Wotif.com squash courts, steam rooms, a floodlit tennis to eat at the hotel, but lays claim to being Enjoyed the pool, gym, great breakfast, court and a 20-metre infinity lap pool. There’s the best in Port Moresby. Amongst white and very kind staff. The (airport) shuttle is also a pool with sun lounges and food and tablecloths, ceiling fans and a piano player, very efficient and amenities are very well drink service. Many of the recreational areas, waiters deliver classics such as lobster bisque, maintained, nice after a couple of days in restaurants and rooms have views towards the top-score Kobe wagyu steak, and crepe the jungle. – TripAdvisor airport and the Owen Stanley Ranges. There suzettes cooked at your table. Afterwards, are flourishes of PNG art and craft around the adjourn to the leather chairs and dark wood Airways is a quick car ride from the airport. hotel, which also has an art and craft shop, a panelling of the Havanaba, with a choice of It’s clean, safe, friendly staff, good food, technology shop (where you can get local SIM Cuban cigars and the largest selection of relaxing pool and gardens. – TripAdvisor cards) and a tailor. There are four boardrooms whiskeys and vodkas in Port Moresby. for business meetings. — ROBERT UPE

68 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine traveller our country

time traveller

Ononge, Central Province, circa 1920s

From the late 1800s up to the 1950s, horses were loaded with saddlebags by missionaries to get supplies into the mountains. Hundreds of kilometres of tracks were cut through the rugged terrain to provide access for the horses. Father Jules Dubuy, with the Missionaries of Sacred Heart, took these photos while he was stationed at Ononge village in the Goilala District of Central Province. The inset photo shows Father Alphonse Bonn taming a horse. He was a missionary and expert horseman, nicknamed ‘The Cossack’, because he often rode a stallion at full gallop. The images were sent in by Father Roger Purcell, who is stationed at Mount Hagen. If you have a photo that may be suitable for Time Traveller, email paradise@ businessadvantageinternational.com.

70 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

townsville DESTINATION feature A city for all seasons There’s so much to do in Air Niugini’s newest destination of Townsville, but the best thing about this North Queensland town is that it gets more than 320 days of sunshine, writes Sarah Nicholson.

ir Nuigini is now flying between shopping choices, dining possibilities, a sports south by road – with visitors spending just Port Moresby and Townsville, but if scene, cultural encounters, and an events three days in town able to experience a convenience and a quick connection calendar to rival what’s found in some state trio of different, and uniquely Australian, Aaren’t reasons enough to head for capitals down south. environments. this chilled Australian outpost then consider The city serves as a gateway to rainforest, But, perhaps best of all, is that this quiet a few other facts. reef, and outback – the Paluma Range corner of the Queensland coast enjoys more Townsville is northern Australia’s biggest National Park is a 45-minute drive north, than 320 days of sunshine every year, making settlement with a regional population just under the Great Barrier Reef two hours east by it the ideal location to holiday when clear skies 300,000, guaranteeing the destination offers boat, and Charters Towers 90 minutes are a prerequisite.

72 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine townsville DESTINATION feature

of rain on Queensland all the way from Hamilton Island to the Gold Coast in a Sister cities few very damp days, Townsville only received several millimetres of precipitation. forge strong All this sunshine makes it easy to get outside with locals routinely savouring seaside picnics links in a park on The Strand, pedalling the beachside boardwalk to neighbouring Pallarenda, hiking to Castle Hill’s scenic summit, sunset sailing, PNG alfresco drinking and dining, doing sunrise yoga, Port Moresby and snorkelling above coral reefs. It’s the winter sunshine that draws Cairns 2 hours Sydneysiders Clare and Paul Ley north every year. They navigate their elegant 17-metre yacht Townsville Pilgrim to Magnetic Island – the Townsville australia Brisbane

Sydney

The city serves as a he sister city relationship gateway to rainforest, between Port Moresby and reef, and outback. Townsville is one to watch. TSince its establishment in 1983, the relationship between the cities has developed positively with about PGK126 million ($AUD500 million) in two-way trade flowing between the ports. The cities have a strong business ‘suburb’ a 20-minute ferry ride across the relationship and the proximity of the sparkling Coral Sea – and spend dry-season two centres (Townsville is closer to Port days taking visitors on sailing adventures. Moresby than it is to Brisbane) offers ease They initially set sail for Hamilton Island, but and efficiency in trading. decided to continue north on a recommendation from friends, and knew they had found their Opportunities for development between winter playground after rounding the Cape Townsville and Port Moresby are plentiful. Cleveland Lighthouse. Air Niugini started direct flights between The seafaring pair now offers lunchtime the cities earlier this year, allowing cruises to secluded bays, where the crew passengers to transit in less than two prepares a barbecue lunch, while guests swim hours. Connections out of Papua New from the yacht or stroll along the sand, and Guinea can link travellers to a diverse longer voyages that circumnavigate Magnetic range of Asian hubs, offering simplicity in The dry-season months that mark winter in Island to take in the beaches along the lonely international corporate travel and tourism Australia’s tropical north are delightfully tepid north coast that sits inside the boundary of the throughout the continent. and when clouds roll across neighbouring Magnetic Island National Park. Two Townsville-based businesses that locations – like Cairns, 350 kilometres north I join them for a twilight sail and, after have built successful relationships in and Airlie Beach, a three-hour motor south – leaving the ship’s berth in the Nelly Bay marina, PNG are Pacific Islands International Townsville will be basking below a flawless I settle into a beanbag seat below the mast and Premise. blue dome. to sip a local beer, while Pilgrim darts across Even during Cyclone Debbie, the fierce 2017 Cleveland Bay before turning to sail towards weather system that dropped biblical amounts the setting sun.

September – October 2017 73 townsville DESTINATION feature A city for all seasons

Sister cities forge strong links

Air Niugini started direct flights between the cities earlier this year, allowing passengers to transit in less than two hours.

Ashley Finn, managing director of export management company Pacific Islands International, couldn’t be happier with the growing relationship between the cities. “The recent Air Niugini direct flights All aboard ... the 17-metre Pilgrim (left); skipper Paul Ley (above); Little Crystal Creek (opposite page, between Townsville and Port Moresby have right); the 'perfect' macadamia ice cream from Frosty Mango (opposite page, far right). been fantastic for my business. It enables us to commute between our head office in Townsville and our biggest market Port The sky is gold, with the setting sun dropping stationed here during World War 2, so I take Moresby quickly and efficiently. I see this a carpet of sparkles on the water beyond the the time one peaceful morning to learn more connection as a very important step in yacht’s bow, and the breeze is blowing just hard about this history. the growth of both regions by opening up enough to tilt the yacht to port as she races Jezzine Barracks, the park at the northern opportunities for many industries outside of across the whitecaps towards Cape Pallarenda. end of The Strand, was home to battalions my business including tourism, education, But there’s more to my north Queensland of wartime combatants and now there’s health and logistics.’’ encounter than a sunset sail and – aside from a walk in the gardens that offers not only views Patrick Brady, executive director of a visit to the Turtle Hospital at Reef HQ, which across the Coral Sea but murals and information engineering and project management is the Townsville aquarium that serves as the plates detailing the role Townsville played in organisation Premise, sees huge potential Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority’s the Pacific War. for his business in PNG. “With offices that education centre – I rarely settle inside except There’s another helping of history near Paluma include Townsville and Port Moresby the to sleep. with the stone bridge spanning Little Crystal direct air link with Air Niugini allows our I join long-time local Nick Dametto for a jet-ski Creek – a peaceful place where meandering team to travel to our Papua New Guinea tour that follows the coast past Kissing Point waterfalls carve pools that provide the shady office in the same time it takes us to get to Pallarenda, linger over a long alfresco lunch places to paddle on a hot day – built during to our Brisbane office. This creates greater in a park on The Strand prepared by Pineapple The Great Depression as part of a program opportunities to build future relationships Picnics, and spend Saturday night at City Lane that remunerated unemployed residents to and expand our business activities in PNG.” enjoying the vibe after the local NRL team, participate in building projects. the North Queensland Cowboys, wins another After taking a dip at Little Crystal Creek, I Townsville is the newest route into home game. decide not to continue along the mountain road, Australia for Air Niugini, with the airline Townsville is a military town, with thousands also built by Depression-era labour, to Paluma already flying to Cairns, Brisbane and of army and air force troops and their families – the village where cafes and art galleries line Sydney. stationed in and around the city, but men and the streets and walking trails disappear into the women in uniform are nothing new with more national park rainforests – but return to the flats than 50,000 American and Australian troops and the famous Frosty Mango.

74 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine townsville DESTINATION feature A city for all seasons

This ice-cream shop on the Bruce Highway Turns out there’s no better way rests at the heart of an orchard growing all to finish a day that starts with a sorts of tropical fruit, which become the key walk through wartime history than ingredients for the homemade sorbet, and I sit by savouring a single scoop of perfect below a palm tree to savour a delicious scoop macadamia ice cream. of macadamia gelato. See townsvillenorthqueensland.com.au.

Air Nuigini flies from Port Moresby to Townsville twice a week, on Friday and Monday. See airniugini.com.pg

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September – October 2017 75 townsville DESTINATION feature

Food scene takes off ownsville may be “There’s always been an underlying health a funky laneway vibe going, Otto’s Fresh Food the gateway to theme with Townsville dining – I think that has Market, and Coffee Dominion which is a local the rainforest, reef something to do with the fact so many young favourite where the professionals check in Tand outback but people live here because we’re a military and before going to their offices.’’ recent developments in university town – but the restaurant scene When it comes to fine dining, A Touch of Salt on the food scene are seeing has taken off in the past four years with Ogden Street, Palmer Street’s Michels, and City the city blossom into northern paddock-to-plate dining becoming a focus in Lane’s Donna Bionda are top choices, while Cbar Queensland’s culinary capital. the past two years. on The Strand boasts views across the water Not too many years ago, a fine-dining “We now have two great dining precincts to Magnetic Island, and rooftop Rambutan (see experience was a meal at a leagues club with Palmer Street and City Lane and that really review this page) is the hottest new place. bistro but the arrival of award-winning chefs, thoughtful focus on food is one thing that many Townsville is also home to one of Australia’s ingredients sourced from nearby producers, people, especially visitors from the big cities finest morning meals with Jam, the chic open- trendy dining precincts, cool cafes, and down south, don’t expect to find in Townsville. all-day restaurant at one end of Palmer Street, thoughtful menus have elevated the scene. “And city people are always surprised at honoured by the Australian Savour Awards for “Townsville has grown up a bit,” explains how good the coffee is in Townsville and I can serving the country’s very best brekkie, with the Townsville Enterprise’s marketing executive, recommend Juliette’s on The Strand for good Asian chicken omelette a local favourite. and local foodie, Lisa Woolfe. coffee with water views, Hoi Polloi which has – SARAH NICHOLSON

Where: RAMBUTAN RESTAURANT review 113–119 Flinders Street, Townsville. Phone: +61 7 4771 6915 Web: rambutantownsville.com.au Style: American Typical prices: Entrees $AUD13-18; Mains $AUD19-33. Open: Daily; Lunch 12–3pm; Dinner 6pm–late BYO: No Our favourite dish: 12-hour smoked brisket In a word: Rambunctious ou’d hesitate to call the fun without feeling like you’ve gram scotch fillets. All are tasty but Rambutan a backpackers. overstayed your welcome. We start by sharing some it’s the brisket – so often With its complex of 46 The Hamptons Design Co.- perfectly fried Boston crab cakes the yardstick of a quality smoking Yflashy rooms gathered designed space is nautically before turning our attention to the operation – that truly impresses, around a rooftop pool bar and themed in the best possible restaurant’s killer app: Rambutan’s succulent and layered with flavour. restaurant, the impression way. Think bold prints, lazy deck smoker, the only brick smoke pit A lovely fragrant apple and mint it leaves is more of a glam, chairs and metres of rope. From of its type in Townsville. salad helps keep things on-diet, Instagrammable resort. Still, the the ceiling hang greenery and We take a ‘Holy Trinity’, the whole meal washed down tables of Lonely Planet-flicking old ‘Queenslander’-style shutter choosing three meats: 12-hour with some outrageously cheap Poms tell no lies. This is a windows. Overlooking the resort’s short rib with a coffee rub; Corte Giara pinot grigio. hostel, and as such can become pool on one side and Flinders Memphis-dusted pulled pork; All this and we’ve hardly cracked a freewheeling affair on the Street’s heritage buildings on the and 12-hour smoked brisket with $80 between two. More to spend weekends, when Townsville locals other, it’s an easy, breezy place to chipotle barbecue. The meats at the bar afterwards, I guess. pile in for a cut of the action. spend a bunch of hours. come presented on a platter, – Matt Shea Thankfully, Rambutan’s The menu is about as inclusive accompanied by condiments restaurant gives you an as you’d imagine, ranging from courtesy of Australia’s Changz opportunity to dip your toe into taco kits right through to 300 Hot Sauce.

76 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine townsville DESTINATION feature

Fine weather, big events There’s more to Townsville than rainforest and reef, with the city hosting dozens of events. Sarah Nicholson reports.

or a regional settlement anniversary this year. The festival of just 180,000 people, is the largest meeting of its kind Townsville is punching above in Australia, attracting more than its weight when it comes 40 artists from around the world For the diary ... the Townsville Iron Cowboy (above left); the Australian F Festival of Chamber Music (above right). to events. to perform. The north Queensland city, which The festival’s executive is 1500 kilometres by road from the director, Justin Ankus, says it’s nearest state capital, plays host the agreeable winter weather, to dozens of occasions every year and 320 days of sun every year, from sports meetings and musical that make Townsville an ideal festivals to culinary carnivals and place for the festival. cultural encounters. “The winter months are events The V8 Supercars visit every year, season in Townsville,” he says. the North Queensland Cowboys “Winter in the tropics is the best play regular home games during time of year, the high humidity of the NRL season, the Townsville Fire summer has gone and average perform during WNBL competition, daily temperatures have fallen to Your supplier of quality building Magnetic Island Race Week is an a pleasant 25C with mild evenings. & construction materials annual regatta bringing yachts and Blue skies are plentiful with rain crews to town, and the best bull seldom seen, and all this proves Import • Export • WholEsalE We import riders make a pilgrimage north for to be a boon both for event goers servicing 27 countries & export a the PBR Iron Cowboy. and organisers. huge array of An already busy sporting calendar “Aside from the opportunity to in the pacific ocean. products will be a little more crowded hear world-class musicians in product categories: during the next few months with world-exclusive performances at Steel & Wire • Plumbing • Electrical Townsville hosting Rugby League the Australian Festival of Chamber • Flooring • Walls & Ceilings • Bathroom & Kitchen World Cup matches on October 28 Music the beauty of the region, Paint • Hardware • Furniture and November 5 and preliminary its proximity to rainforest and reef, rounds of the 2018 Commonwealth and the perfect weather in the Games basketball competition winter months make it an unbeat- between April 5 and 10. able proposition,” he says. The city is also home to the See townsvillenorth- Australian Festival of Chamber [email protected] • +617 4773 2444 queensland.com.au/events. Music, which celebrates its 27th www.pacificislands.com.au

September – October 2017 77 townsville DESTINATION feature

Snorkels, goggles and flippers are distributed and it’s into the water where we discover the stripy fish have been joined by a school of baby black-tip sharks.

Magnetic aTTRACTION Spend a few hours on the water with a local to see the best of Magnetic Island, writes Sarah Nicholson.

dam Hinks is a rare find dart into Smugglers Cove Hinks tells us there’s nothing to on Magnetic Island. While to learn about the stately hoop fear from these sleek creatures, most residents in this pines that cling to the coast and which are just a few months A2500-person community survive because they go months old and about a metre long, and hail from somewhere else, he is without rain, and pause near a explains that the juvenile sharks a bona fide Maggie local. rocky point so he can feed his are taking shelter in this shallow He was raised on the island favourite white-bellied sea eagle, section of the reef until they – a 20-minute ferry ride from which swoops to snatch a piece build the strength to head for Townsville – and when childhood of fish from his fingers. deep water. Quiet cove ... plenty of space to mates were moving to the move on this Magnetic Island beach When we arrive in Florence Bay, “During the past summer mainland to find work Hinks was (top); local Adam Hinks (above). a cove that’s home to a marine 29 babies were born, but they building his business, Aquascene, national park green zone protecting were tiny and vulnerable so there’s and taking visitors on water tours Hinks is taking my group out a garden of coral, Hinks drops only eight left now, and they will around this jewel in the Coral Sea. on a delightful 26C winter’s day. the boat’s rear steps and gathers move on from here when they get Decades of beachcombing, We take our time and cruise more food to hand feed the short bigger,’’ our host explains. swimming, snorkelling, surfing, through Geoffrey Bay to hear fin-bat fish that congregate to See paddling and fishing mean he knows about the tiny rock wallabies greet us. townsvillenorthqueensland. Maggie’s 23 bays and 28 beaches that hide between the boulders Snorkels, goggles, flippers and com.au or aquascenecharters. like the back of his hand and adapts on the hill, the giant clams that noodles are distributed and it’s into com.au to learn about every tour he leads to the interests live amongst the coral, and the the water where we discover the Aquascene’s Maggie Discovery of those on board his purpose- wrecked ship submerged just stripy fish have been joined by a Tour. built catamaran, which can nuzzle below the surface. school of baby black-tip sharks who into little coves and hover above We inspect Alma Beach, which is gather to watch us float above the interesting corners of the coral reef. the island’s safest swimming spot, colourful coral and sleepy turtles.

Three things to do Magnetic Island is home to northern Rent a pink ‘Barbie car’ from There are self-guided snorkelling Australia’s largest koala colony. Tropical Topless Car Rentals, buy trails in Nelly Bay and Geoffrey Bay. See them on the four-kilometre Forts a bag of feed from the general store You’ll see giant clams, coral, and 1 Walk, which visits a compound of 2in Arcadia, venture to the end of 3a shipwreck. Waterproof ‘swim World War 2 fortifications and has Bremmer Point to hand feed the tiny cards’ are available from island magnificent mountain-top views. rock wallabies. shops and accommodation, providing information on locations along the route.

78 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine Discover Townsville’s best kept secret

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I realised all the years of struggle to set up Samaritan Aviation had been worthwhile. We had just saved the lives of a mother and her baby. PICTURES: supplied by MARK PALM

80 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living health Flying miracle

Richard Andrews reports on good samaritan Mark Palm who is saving lives and delivering vital medical supplies in remote PNG with his air ambulance service.

want to spend my life service for remote communities in who ran a homeless mission, helping the people of East Sepik Province. while his grandfather was a World PNG,” Mark Palm told his “If we were going to be serious War 2 pilot. As a teenager, Palm On a wing and a future wife, Kirsten, on about each other, I wanted to get decided to combine the two family prayer ... Mark Palm “I their first date, in California. it all out there from the start,” says traditions during a trip to PNG with in the pilot's seat Not a typical way for a 20-year- Palm, 21 years later. “However, his friend Gary Bustin. (this page); with his wife Kirsten, at Kaup old to express romantic interest, it didn’t go down too well at first Living in local villages, the two village, one of the but she ‘signed on’ for what when Kirsten’s dad learned I Americans saw the challenges places they fly to turned out to be the adventure wanted to take his daughter away people faced when medical help with their Christian air ambulance of a lifetime: running Samaritan to the other side of the world.” was needed in areas with few service (above right). Aviation, a Christian air ambulance Palm’s own father was a minister roads and fewer runways.

September – October 2017 81 living health Flying miracle

“The vision of a free emergency Samaritan Aviation took off “If you have snakebite or a service with a floatplane that could in 2010, when Palm, his wife birthing challenge, there’s no hope land on Sepik waterways came and their three young children without the service Samaritan from that trip,” says Palm. (Sierra, Drake and Nolan) relocated provides. For us the longest flight However, it was a long journey to to Wewak, together with a is only 65 minutes.” set up Saman Balus, as it’s known disassembled Cessna. During Samaritan’s early days, locally. Since then, the air ambulance Palm’s wife took on multi-tasking Palm returned to the US, service has added an extra plane with a vengeance. As a teacher, learned to fly, enrolled in an and saved thousands of lives by she not only home-schooled the aircraft engineering school and providing emergency transportation, three children, but also drove the spent a decade raising money medicines and equipment. ambulance in Wewak. for a retrofitted Cessna 206 – a “About 40 per cent of our trips are “I’d land, Kirsten would be beloved bush aircraft that can cost child and pregnancy related,” says waiting in the car with the three $US500,000 or more. Palm. “We also deal with trauma, kids and she’d take the patients “It’s a lot of money when spear wounds, immunisations, to hospital,” says Palm. “I’d you’re young and no-one’s ever search and rescue, you name it. then jump back in the plane heard of you,” he says. “But we “About 225,000 people live and take off to pick up another eventually managed to buy the on the 1100 kilometre Sepik and sick person.” plane and set up a non-profit its tributaries. Most of them Samaritan’s operation now organisation that’s now supported would have to travel two to five involves four families, including Flying visit ... by the PNG government and days to reach the one hospital in two pilots, two engineers, and a a medicine drop at individual donors.” the province. medical director, plus local staff Eran village.

82 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living health Flying miracle

and volunteers. A triage nurse remember the adrenaline and handles the calls and dispatches tension as we navigated around flights. rough weather, landed on the Sepik “Contact from more remote near the village and rushed Antonia areas is by radio, while about 60 back to the hospital.” per cent of callers live within range Fortunately, Antonia responded to of cellphone towers,” says Palm. emergency surgery and delivered “However, people sometimes have a healthy baby boy the same day. to walk 30 minutes and climb a “At that moment, I realised all tree or hike up a mountain to get the years of struggle to set up reception.” Samaritan had been worthwhile,” After 10 years and more than a says Palm. “The vision was real. thousand flights, Palm says he’ll We had just saved the lives of never forget Samaritan’s first a mother and her baby.” emergency. A frantic health worker Palm and his family visited in the village of Timbunke called Antonia in hospital, where they to say a young mother struggling learned she had named her baby through an obstructed childbirth Mark. had lost consciousness and was on “I was really moved and the verge of dying. honoured,” says Palm. “Last Easter, “It was early morning, Good I flew into Timbunke again and all Friday, 2010,” says Palm. “I those feelings came back when

Adventure Park ParaMAG 120x185mm.indd 1 22/03/2017 8:57 am September – October 2017 83 living health Flying miracle

I met baby Mark on his birthday. He’s a young man of seven and he’s there today.” “You coming is a miracle,” said PNG’s former leader, Sir Michael Somare, when he met Palm some months ago. “You save one life, it means you are saving a nation.” Palm, however, credits his family, team and other supporters for Samaritan’s success. “I feel I’m the lucky one being over here able to do this,” he says. “It’s been an amazing journey.” See samaviation.com.

Good samaritan ... Mark Palm with ‘baby Mark’ who was named after him after he saved his life.

84 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living art

Tradition, art and love Ben Packham meets an Australian artist who is preserving PNG traditional knowledge through her work. And there’s a love story, too.

he mother of a crying infant strives to live in Bougainville’s Siwai in harmony district makes a necklace with nature and Tfor her baby from a connect with particular long-stemmed fern. The her subjects on a ritual of preparing the ornament spiritual level. helps to calm the child, while the She first visited aromatic qualities of the freshly Siwai in 2015 at broken stem relieve its discomfort. the invitation of Taa The plant, known as pokara in Lupumoiku clan chief the local Motuna language, forms and traditional healer, part of the traditional medical Alex Dawia. dispensary of the Siwai people. Dawia had seen one To Australian artist Kate of her previous projects: Robertson, this is sacred a series of unearthly knowledge, shared and preserved images created from through the community initiated art the dust kicked up at an project, Recording the Medicinal alternative lifestyle festival Plants of Siwai, Bougainville. in NSW, in rural Australia. She’s been working with He’d been looking for Bougainville’s Taa Lupumoiku and someone to help preserve Rura clans for the past three years his people’s language and to record the images and stories of traditional medicinal knowledge, the region’s traditional medicines. and to help bridge the divide Images from the project were between Bougainville and the recently exhibited at Chapter outside world. House Lane Gallery in Melbourne, She spent a lot of time on that Australia. first visit getting to know the Robertson, 36, is an community: playing games, experimental photographer who swimming and telling stories.

86 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living art

“It was quite different to Medicine man ... local healer Patrick anything I was used to,” she says. from the Kainake village (opposite page); Kate Roberston's art “The environment, the heat, the depicting bush medicine (middle); humidity. I just loved it. Robertson and Jeffrey Noro (left). “I hung out a lot with the children. They wanted to talk in English, and teach me words The crisis helped to revive in the local Motuna language.” interest in Bougainville’s traditional When she finally brought out her medicines, because pharmaceutical large-format film camera, many drugs were unavailable. were intrigued. But enthusiasm But there is a recognition these waned because she couldn’t plant-based cures can be less produce photographic prints. effective than modern medicines “The engagement with the – something Robertson was community was lost because reminded of during the project. there was no visual outcome “I’d been swimming in the creek, straight away,” she says. and I got an ear infection. In 12 Robertson returned the hours I went from feeling slightly following year with an alternative dizzy to vomiting and passing out. camera-less method, known as “They tried to fix it traditionally, the lumen process, that In the traditional way of the clan, but it wasn’t working. I ended up uses expired black and white it’s not Jeff who proposes to me, going to a local health care centre.” photographic paper. it’s the family. She was put on intravenous Sheets of it were placed on therapy and recovered in a few tables in a central location of the days. But the clinic was so poorly village, where community members equipped, staff struggled to find arranged vegetation on them. out. One of them, Patrick, described economic prospects, while surgical tape to secure the drip The paper reacts to light, plant the bush as “our hospital”. protecting its natural environment. to her hand. juices, condensation and anything “When people get really sick, Robertson’s art project has The experience reinforced in her else it touches, rendering images in they go out to live off the forest and become an integral part of the mind that communities should an array of yellows, pinks, oranges take the medicinal plants that are broader community conservation not have to rely exclusively on and browns. required,” he told Robertson. effort. traditional medicines. Participants in the project were “It’s a way to heal themselves, Robertson and Noro became “I just thought, ‘this is not right’. able to watch the images appear but also to make sure they don’t close during the project, and in There should be access to modern during exposures lasting anywhere pass on the illness to anyone else.” 2016 they returned to Kainake and medicine in a way that isn’t from a few hours to several days. Another of Robertson’s became engaged. compromised,” she says. “I hope that I am a bit of a collaborators is Rura clan chief, In Siwai’s matrilineal culture, She returned with a gift of 10 mediator,” she says. “I see myself Jeffrey Noro. He has both a cultural Noro’s mother, Bridget Sakui Noro, kilograms of medicines and medical as someone who assembles things, and a scientific interest in the is the clan’s ‘quiet leader’. She supplies donated by her local GP in rather than leads the process.” medicinal plants of the Siwai. recently gave her blessing to the Australia. Robertson says the method After fleeing Bougainville during relationship. “When I delivered it back to the seems to suit Siwai’s matrilineal the civil war, Noro studied natural “In the traditional way of the clan, hospital, the doctor was really culture, which encourages deep products and pharmaceutical it’s not Jeff who proposes to me, emotional. They just didn’t have contemplation before significant chemistry, gaining a PhD in drug it’s the family,” Robertson says. that stuff there. decisions are made. discovery for his work on marine “She went into her hut and came “I don’t think it’s a question of “I hope I’m tapping into the sponges. out and presented me with a shell one or the other. Both traditional strengths of the women there. It’s He founded the Kainake Project in money necklace. and modern medicines should be a quiet strength. I see that as a very 2013 – a sustainable development “Everyone was laughing and available.” feminine thing. I hope I’m tapping venture based around his home squealing. They were in shock. Robertson is currently working on into that and respecting that.” village. Someone said afterwards: ‘Do a book with Kainake’s children. It Word spread about the project, It aims to educate Kainake’s you know what this is? This is will feature images and stories from and local healers began to seek her children and improve the area’s acceptance into the family’.” the project.

September – October 2017 87 living sport

All set for PNG Games More than 12,000 athletes will compete at the PNG Games in Kimbe. Jeff Turnbull reports. he Papua New Guinea basketball and netball.The AFL code Games – a sporting festival is on the way up in PNG, underlined that embraces the country’s A lot of eyes will be on weightlifter Morea when the Mosquitoes’ national T22 provinces and involves Baru who finished sixth at the Rio Games. team won the 18-team international 28 sports – is finally due to get series in a nail-biter against Ireland

PICTURE: STEPHEN RAE under way in November after two Another highly promising athlete is at the MCG in Melbourne, Australia, false starts. 20-year-old boxer Thadius Katua. in 2014. The biennial event was set down With an estimated 12,000 for November last year but stepped athletes and officials arriving aside for the prestigious FIFA in Kimbe, the school calendar Women’s Then the new date, in March at Olympic level in the 100, 200 and has been arranged to allow the World this year, was abandoned after 400-metre races as well as carrying visitors to use the schools as Cup. weather forecasts of extended the national flag in the opening accommodation. periods of rain. ceremony at the 2012 London As Paradise went to press, the Olympics. seventh PNG Games were all set A lot of eyes will be on to go ahead in Kimbe in West New weightlifter Morea Baru who Britain Province, from November finished sixth in the 62-kilogram 18 to December 1. division at the Rio Games. His More than PGK35 million has been performance at Kimbe will be spent on bringing infrastructure and a gauge of his prospect for the sporting facilities up to date with Commonwealth Games on the five new mini arenas, including an Gold Coast, Queensland, next year. all-weather track that will host the Another highly promising athlete track and field events. is 20-year-old boxer Thadius Katua Its legacy will be transforming who faced up against a tough Kimbe into the sporting hub for the Russian in Rio, and although he PNG islands. didn’t win there were many in the The games, originally known as audience who felt he deserved to. the Grassroots Games, provide He already has a Commonwealth a platform for PNG’s raw talent Games youth gold medal to his to shine. credit and his Australian coach, It was at the first games, in Allan Nicolson, is predicting big 2003, where a barefoot young things for his young charge. girl called Toea Wisil emerged Among the team as a rising star. sports on show will be Wisil has gone on to Australian Rules, rugby represent PNG league and rugby union,

Play ball … Australian Rules player Jeffrey Hardy Vogae (left) and rugby’s Michael Bauba Vitolo will be among the thousands of Papua New Guinean athletes competing at the PNG Games.

88 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living culture

A PIECE OF PNG: WOODEN BOWLS

BACKGROUND with lime, was used. Today, Wooden bowls were once wooden bowls are mostly made common utilitarian items used as a tourist item, and the in Papua New Guinea’s many premier province for attractive diverse cultures. Replaced by decorative bowls of all sizes modern aluminium pots, many of is Milne Bay. the unique local styles of bowls WHO MAKES can sadly now only be seen in THEM? museum collections. In the islands and villages WHERE ARE THEY of Milne Bay it is the men MADE? who make these beautiful Communities in many provinces objects. traditionally made bowls, with HOW ARE THEY MADE? decoration reflecting local Today, steel hand tools, sandpaper, traditions. In Manus, impressive wax and shoe polish are used to Museum pieces have a slightly HOW WERE WOODEN large three-legged bowls were produce nice smooth bowls, but in rougher finish, clearly showing BOWLS USED carved out of a single log, while days gone by stone tools and shells the use of traditional village tools. TRADITIONALLY? in the Siassi islands of Morobe would have been used, in a much In Milne Bay, a variety of dark As would be expected of incised decoration, highlighted more time-consuming process. hardwood timbers are usually used household items, wooden bowls, for bowls. Keep an eye out for nicer either shallow or deep, were pieces using striped ebony, or even used to store, hold and serve the increasingly rare black ebony. food. Larger bowls were used to In other places, a dark hardwood serve food at important feasts such as kwila or rosewood is used and festivals as well as being for bowls. In all cases bowls are used as an item of bride wealth hand-made and therefore every or in trade. For example, bowls piece is unique. from Tami Island in Morobe were an important item in the trade HOW ARE THEY networks in the region at the DECORATED? southern end of what today is Traditionally most bowls, as West New Britain, exchanged for utilitarian items, were plain with dogs’ teeth, betel nut, feathers, little decoration, perhaps just pigs or other foodstuff. some incised designs around the rim. However, bowls from Milne WHERE CAN BOWLS BE Bay are more artistic, sometimes BOUGHT? incorporating interestingly complex Bowls from Milne Bay can be shapes and figures, and making found in most handicraft shops in extensive use of inlaid mother hotels and main centres. In Port of pearl shell. Sometimes, the Moresby, they can be found among finished pieces are rubbed with the goods sold by roadside vendors volcanic ash rich in graphite, or outside the Holiday Inn Hotel and manganese, to darken and harden at regular craft markets. Bowls the surface. from other provinces are harder to find, so you would need to travel to villages still making them, or be lucky enough to find them for sale in local cultural festivals. – JOHN BROOKSBANK

90 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living aviation history MYSTERY OF THE AIR Amelia Earhart and PNG: an inseparable story

NORTH AMERICA June 17 Karachi a n i c o c e may 20 l a n t Oakland, California a t

june 1 INDIA Miami, Florida

AFRICA June 10 June 15 June 3 Dakar, Senegal Assab, Eritrea I N Caripito, Venezuela D I A N o c e a n e a n i c o c SOUTH P A C I F AMERICA June 7 Natal, Brazil

0 kM 4000

The last anyone saw of the American aviatrix was when she flew her plane from Lae eastwards into the Pacific. Many theories exist about her last movements, putting her final resting place variously in Kiribati, Saipan and PNG. History geek Roderick Eime examines the theories.

itting in a lonely field next and gravel strip to her intended airport at Nadzab. With the 29 after completing 35,000 to the site of the old Lae destination in the Pacific in July busy gold mining industry, kilometres of their round-the- airport is a forlorn slab of 1937. old Lae airport was once among world flight. Sconcrete that once bore The popular narrative is that she the busiest anywhere and The intrepid pair checked into a plaque dedicated to the brave was never seen again. But was she? that’s how Earhart and her Lae’s ‘plush’ and only hotel, the aviatrix, Amelia Earhart, who was Lae has long since been served navigator, Fred Noonan, found Cecil, and were greeted by the last seen flying from the grass by the more favourably located it when they arrived on June owner, Flora ‘Ma’ Stewart. Once

92 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living aviation history

June 20 Bangkok

I F i c o c e a n THAILAND P A C July 2 Howland Lae Islands June 21 Singapore I N D I A N o c e a n NEW GUINEA

Nikumaroro June 29 Island Darwin AUSTRALIA

Flight path ... Amelia Earhart and her navigator, Fred Noonan, were on the final leg of their record- breaking, round-the-world flight in 1937 when they took off from Lae and vanished.

the only art-deco building in general manager, Eric Chater, household, Noonan took the flying their Clippers around the Papua New Guinea, it somehow discussed the flight thus far and opportunity, in the absence of Pacific and how he had no specific survived Japanese occupation, the dangerous and complicated an invitation to join Earhart, to apprehension about the next leg but was demolished in the 1970s. 11,000-kilometre trans-Pacific legs go drinking with some of the as he felt particularly qualified to It would be enthralling to be a that lay ahead. local flyers, Bertie Heath and find the speck that was Howland fly-on-the-wall at the dinner table While Earhart dined privately Jim Collopy. Noonan waxed on Island. The two noisily put the as Earhart and Guinea Airways in the comfort of the Chater about his time with Pan American drunk Noonan to bed about

September – October 2017 93 living aviation history Mystery of the air midnight, waking Earhart in the observations and route advice from next room. both the US Navy base at Pearl While the pair enjoyed a break Harbor in Hawaii and the US Coast at Lae, Chater’s mechanics were Guard vessel, Itasca, which was busy servicing Earhart’s Lockheed stationed off Howland Island to Electra, attending to several issues provide radio guidance. Earhart had noted on the eight-hour Heavily laden with 1100 US flight from Darwin. Chief mechanic, gallons of fuel, the Electra took off Ted Finn, oversaw the operation from old Lae airstrip amid great and Earhart spent some time in the fanfare, with many locals turning hangar watching them work on the out to see the pair off. A black-and- engines, radio and gyro. white film taken by young Guinea Earhart was keen to get going Airways employee Alan Board, as soon as possible, but first had and the still photos taken that day, to attend to many messages that are the last known images of her, were relayed via the AWA wireless Noonan and the Electra. station, as there were no phones The film and images were in Lae. Harry Balfour was the sole recently analysed by Jeff Glickman, operator of the rudimentary station. an expert forensic examiner, and She had to rely on expensive, it has been determined that an hand-transcribed dispatches, antenna attached to the underside which contained crucial weather (belly) of the aircraft was likely

94 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living aviation history Mystery of the air

ripped from the Electra as it taxied From this point on, matters get to take off. The specific function confused. There have been many of this device has been subject theories about the ‘disappearance’, to some debate, and how it could but it helps to understand the have affected the flight ahead has political mood in the region at the been debated by experts in many time, especially relations between Heavily laden with 1100 US gallons of books and internet forums. the US and Japan. As the aircraft disappeared to the In 1937, the Japanese had fuel, the Electra took off from old Lae east, the weather reports Earhart control of most of Micronesia airstrip amid great fanfare, with many had been waiting for arrived from through to the Marshall Islands, locals turning out to see the pair off. Hawaii and attempts were made having been ceded them by to transmit this information to her. the League of Nations as a The success, or otherwise, has protectorate after the defeat never been fully established and of Germany in World War 1. crackly, garbled transmissions Beginning in the 1920s, the continued for the next few hours. Japanese were expanding the The last verified position report settlements all through this huge was near the Nukumanu Islands, territory by encouraging civilian 1300 kilometres from Lae. migration from Japan.

High flyer ... a publicity photo of Amelia Earhart and her Lockheed Electra at Miami, in the US. About a month later she disappeared after leaving PNG.

September – October 2017 95 living aviation history Mystery of the air

Plane talk ... Amelia Earhart and Fred Noonan discussing the route across the Pacific (right); one of the last photos of Earhart as she prepares to leave Lae (opposite page).

Things were going fine for a while, expensive accident in Hawaii. But but in the early 1930s Japan began she miraculously acquired enough to quietly build its military presence money to relaunch her attempt just in these territories in contravention two months later, when the flight of its agreement with the League took off from Oaklands, California, of Nations. Chuuk in Micronesia, in the opposite direction. for example, was expanded to a For the final and most difficult huge military base to rival Pearl section across the Pacific, the Harbor, as well as suspicious aircraft was equipped with installations in the Marshall Islands, advanced RDF equipment and, uncomfortably close to the main as mentioned earlier, had the US base in Hawaii. support of the US Coast Guard The US government had taken and a specially built airstrip on particular interest in the ambitious remote Howland Island. Proponents empire, especially after Japan’s of this theory have suggested military intervention in China and that was quite an unusual and clear signs it was building its armed conspicuous investment for a pair forces elsewhere in Asia and the of ‘stunt flyers’. Pacific. What if an otherwise Oral history in the Marshall innocent civilian flight could be Islands strongly supports the diverted to reconnoitre these secret theory that the Electra either islands and determine if Japan was crash-landed or was force- demonstrating hostile intentions to landed at Mili Atoll, near the its neighbours, the US included? regional capital of Jaluit. A set of It was well known that Earhart storyboard postage stamps were was short of funds after the first even issued to recall this event. (east to west) attempt at the The theory goes that the pair, round-the-world flight ended in an accused of espionage, became

96 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living aviation history Mystery of the air

brought to Jabor, where (local One of those experts interested medic) Bilimon (Amaron) treated in the West New Britain theory is them. They were then taken to retired Australian aviation engineer Kwajalein and from there to Truk David Billings, who is working from and then Saipan. There was no a World War 2 map unearthed mystery ... everybody knew it!” from lost archives in 1993, which Another theory gaining much detail findings by Australian traction at the moment, despite soldiers on patrol in East New scant evidence, is that when the Britain in April 1945. plane become lost or disorientated The most perplexing clue in near Howland Island, they crashed this mystery is that the soldiers near Nikumaroro (then known as recovered a manufacturer’s tag Gardner Island) in Kiribati. It is here from the wreckage that matches that it is believed they survived for ‘precisely’ the serial numbers from a time as castaways until dying. Earhart’s Lockheed 10E Electra. But in recent years a far more While the tag itself was handed intriguing theory has emerged: in to authorities at the time, the that the wreckage of the Electra is notes still exist handwritten on hidden in the jungle near Kimbe. the original patrol map. This theory Timothy Joe Aiap, from Urin suggests that Earhart invoked a village high in the Whiteman’s contingency plan to turn back in Range in the Kandrian district of the event of an emergency. West New Britain, claims to have All of this reminds us that the found wreckage that conforms enduring mystery of Earhart and prisoners of Japan and were sent fishing boat first found them and to the description of the Earhart Noonan’s disappearance continues to jail on Saipan where they were their airplane near Mili,” recalls aircraft. Other commentators to grip the imagination and spawn incarcerated for several years until one of the Marshall Island’s most have cast doubt on that, claiming a wealth of conspiracy theories they either died or were executed. prominent modern pioneers, Robert instead that he has found a lost that go beyond a simple record- “It was widely known throughout Reimers. “They then transferred US bomber or fighter aircraft, breaking stunt to espionage, the islands by both Japanese them to a bigger boat (believed possibly a B-24 (Liberator) or P-38 official secrecy and a meticulously and Marshallese that a Japanese to be the Koshu Maru). They were Lightning. orchestrated cover-up.

What we know, and what we don’t know At least four feasible theories exist Was the famous aviatrix engaged by Was her plane’s wreckage found in about Earhart’s disappearance. the US government to spy on Japanese New Britain, opening a whole new installations in the Marshall Islands? conspiracy theory?

PACIFIC ARCHITECTS PNG LIMITED

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September – October 2017 97 living food Private kitchen: dinner with a celebrity chef Penny Watson settles in for an epic eight- course degustation at an out-of-the-way Hong Kong eatery.

have memories of a cartoon in which an Margaret Xu Yuan is a Hong Kong celebrity made by up-ending two terracotta pots, and exasperated driver gets lost on the endlessly chef, but she greets us at the door like we I can still remember reckoning that it was the looping inner-city highways of Los Angeles, are old friends. We four are the only guests best roast chook I’d tasted. Iunable to get off. I’m in a taxi, but that’s a bit tonight and the open kitchen with a couple I’m rapt to see it on the menu tonight, but how I feel. In true Hong Kong style, the journey of dining tables could be a domestic setting, Xu Yuan assures me the Wan Chai days are to Yin Yang Coastal private kitchen, in the New if it weren’t for the enviable pro stainless behind her. When the lease expired three Territories, involves traversing some serious steel Miele appliances, studio lighting and years ago, she grabbed the opportunity to highways in majorly urban areas. Ho Chi, Xu Yuan’s other chef and business escape the frenetic pace of the inner city and But just when I think we can’t possibly be partner, whose tattooed arms rattle the pans its rapidly evolving food scene. Her new focus in the right place, the taxi driver pulls into a diligently in the background. would be this garden beach house and old deserted car park. With a nod of his head he I first interviewed her in 2010 at her original Hong Kong fishing village cuisine “reborn with directs my friends and I toward a pedestrian Yin Yang restaurant in Wan Chai on Hong wild contemporary notes”. overpass, glaringly lit up in the night. It seems Kong Island. She was headed to Australia Tonight, we’re having a ‘surf and splash’ he can follow Yin Yang Coastal owner Margaret as a guest of the Sydney Food Festival, eight-course dinner. As is often the case Xu Yuan’s directions, even if we can’t. her pioneering use of homegrown organic in private kitchens, you need to book well We cross the overpass. On the other side, a produce and traditional Chinese cooking ahead. Her Hong Kong coastal cuisine, lift sinks us below the road to a footpath that techniques having brought her instant she tells me as she pours a glass of leads into Ting Kau, a jungle-green village on recognition. She cooked me her signature gewurztraminer (exceptionally well paired the edge of the bay. It’s so quiet we tiptoe Yellow Earth Chicken, roasted in an urn she with Chinese cuisine), is a re-invention of along a pavement lined with two and three- older, traditional fishermen’s home recipes. storey concrete villas. A couple of frogs brave “Most pre-colonial coastal Hongkongers eat my footfall and a cat slinks past in the dark, whatever their daily boat harvest is, Cantonese then the beach comes into view. Beyond it fishermen’s style,” Xu Yuan says. “A lot of the red-lit spans of a bridge slip away into the fish and seafoods, mixed with dried fish, inky night and the sparkling lights of high- dried prawns and cuttlefish, preserved salted rises in unknown suburbs wink at us across vegetables, salted seafood and basically things the water. A couple on the sand prepares to that keep on the boat without a fridge. light a lantern in celebration of mid-autumn “This has filtered down into Cantonese festival. Beyond them, a shuttered older-style Delectable dishes … Margaret Xu Yuan preparing culture today. The fish market is an everyday her ‘Autumn Leaves’ (top); the ‘Yellow Earth building with a flat roof and its toes almost in Chicken’ that the author rates as the best ever thing – most Cantonese love seafood in their the water, is lit up from inside. We’re here. (above). daily diet.”

September – October 2017 99 living food Private kitchen

Xu Yuan’s cuisine is a re-invention of these recipes, retaining the traditional flavours and techniques and layering them with her interpretations. Her love of fresh, Tofu Cloud, in a martini organic and sustainable ingredients (from her nearby farm) shines in each dish and glass, is homemade her creativity (she was a designer in a organic tofu set with former life) endows her food with an almost hand-filtered east coast whimsical quality that is captured in the names she gives them. seawater and topped Tofu Cloud, in a martini glass, is homemade with delicate fresh organic tofu set with hand-filtered seawater and topped with fresh crabmeat. The blue- crabmeat. tinged tofu is a conceptual take on the blue sea. Autumn Leaves is a platter of whelks prettily garnished with pickled pink garlic, chilli okra sauce and shiso leaves. The whelks she says. Instead Xu Yuan has added from Xu Yuan as she serves them. It makes are not as popular as conch shells, but are far Sichuan peppercorns to the extra virgin olive dinner more of an experience than a meal. more sustainable, she explains. oil marinade giving the subtle fish flavour Menus start from $HK880 (about Night Fever is a wild-caught, lightly fried a tingling chilli hit. PGK360) per person and must be fish, served whole. Lobster in Spa, Tiger Chasing the Dragon pre-booked. See yinyang.hk. “Traditionally, boat people would marinate and Live Duet induce similarly intriguing the fish in salt overnight for extra flavour,” historical and providential culinary anecdotes MP_1716598

100 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living spotted in

n … melbo i ur ed n t e t o

p Community spirit S

O L

O 3156km U A meets a Papua New Guinean C Kevin McQuillan S I A L N

C O who is dedicated to furthering the opportunities H S A N N BE G E E ADVOCAT of traditional communities.

othing in life is a silver bullet, but Indigenous Youth Leadership Academy to education is a strong foundation and strengthen indigenous young peoples’ voices on enables success. That’s the philosophy My hope for Papua New issues impacting them, including mental health, Nbehind the Mind Garden Projects, Guinea is that young climate change and suicide prevention. started by Benson and Kate Saulo. Benson’s father and mother met at Bible Benson, 29, is a descendent of the Wemba people can gain a quality College in Cootamundra in NSW. Their Wemba and Gunditjmara Aboriginal nations of education and have a commitment to the ministry led them from western Victoria and the New Ireland Province Brisbane to Tamworth. of Papua New Guinea. positive impact in politics, “In 2016, they fulfilled their long-term plan Rising from a career start as a bank teller business and community of returning to my father’s home at Lafu village with the ANZ in the NSW town of Tamworth, on the west coast of New Ireland.” Australia, Benson went on to become a development. Mind Garden Projects came to life following business analyst in the indigenous employment a visit to his family on New Ireland. and training team at ANZ. “During our trip, we visited a couple of schools Last year he joined Australian Unity, a His role with Australian Unity follows an and had the opportunity to facilitate some healthcare, financial services and independent impressive list of accomplishments as a youth workshops with students and teachers. The and assisted living organisation. The opportunity advocate and community leader, schools were Ussil Primary, which is near Lafu, to develop and implement strategies to better including being the first indigenous and Neikonimon Community School.” In both engage with indigenous communities was an Australian to be appointed the schools, there was a shortage of books. incentive for him to join the company. Australian youth representative “Kate – a doctor in clinical and forensic “My role (head of community strategy) at the United Nations in 2011. psychology – has been really blessed with is to promote respectful relationships and This unique position the opportunity of education, as have I, and opportunities with indigenous communities, and experience led seeing the lack of school and teacher resources, customers and business through our him to become decided that as part of our responsibilities to our workforce, products and services and the founding family, we needed to do something. our own employees’ cultural director of “We really wanted to support students to awareness,” he says. the National increase their numeracy and literacy skills, and “I am passionate about support teachers to deliver quality education.” the positive role that large So back home in Melbourne, they established companies, like Australian a crowd-funding campaign to buy books and Unity, can play in stationery. The campaign raised $AUD3500. promoting economic “We also had a book drive and had wonderful empowerment, supporters here in Melbourne who donated community leadership school books – readers for years one up to and reconciliation teen novels.” between our First Mind Garden Projects has since provided over Nations people and other 1000 books to four schools. Australians.” “My hope for Papua New Guinea is that young people can gain a quality education and take Like minds … Benson that opportunity to have a positive impact on and Kate Saulo started the Mind Garden Project the nation in politics, business and community to enhance education development.” in PNG.

102 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living wellness

BY BRONWEN GORA Fish gets even more fabulous ish is a nutritional superstar reported in the latest edition of the and is one of the most Arthritis Care & Research journal commonly served ingredients published by the college. Fin traditional Papua New Even if you don’t have arthritis, Guinean dishes, which are also fish can help you feel a lot better. filled with plant-based foods such One of the world’s best sources as the sweet potato-like kaukau, of brain-friendly omega-3 fatty fresh greens and bread made of acids and energy-boosting sago palm flour. protein, previous scientific While fish is linked to dozens of studies have found regularly health benefits – from improving enjoying fish can lead to lower mood to maintaining eyesight – rates of heart disease, stroke and latest research shows its ability to depression, helps prevent macular also reduce the painful symptoms degeneration, and promotes of rheumatoid arthritis. This is better sleep thanks to the high especially good news considering vitamin D content. In children, fish the condition is on the rise in PNG. consumption reduces the risk of Research by the American type one diabetes and is linked College of Rheumatology found to a 24 per cent lower chance of that people with rheumatoid developing asthma. arthritis who eat fish twice a week All this means you can enjoy suffer far less from swollen and PNG’s many seafood dishes tender joints than people who with a clear conscience, including never eat fish, or only enjoy it once one of the South Pacific’s most- a month. loved, Kokoda fish. Made of Stepping up fish consumption marinated raw fish, it also just to more than twice a week leads happens to be one of the easiest to proportionally less arthritic dishes to prepare at home. symptoms, according to the results PICTURE: COURTESY SYDNEY FISH MARKET

Kokoda fish Serves 6 Ingredients Garnish: Method Cover and Take fish from Divide fish Garnish with 1 kg of fish sliced hard Remove skin refrigerate for bowl and drain into six bowls eggs, onions, fillets (any firm boiled eggs, and bones from six to eight off juice. Mix the and pour the cucumber and white fillets), onion rings, the fish and cut hours, turning garlic with the coconut cream tomatoes. If 1 cup lime or cucumber and into 1cm cubes. from time to coconut cream. over the fish. available serve lemon juice, sliced tomato Put in a glass time with a with baked 1 clove garlic or earthenware spoon. bread fruit and (crushed), ½ bowl and pour baked bananas. to ¾ cup of juice over. coconut cream.

104 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine living wellness

Wild fitness The luxurious Nihiwatu Resort on Sumba Island, in Indonesia, is taking its extensive fitness program a step further with its first Wild & Free yoga retreat. Wellness gurus, Sjana Earp and Rod Cooper, are leading the retreat focussing on their specialised movement concepts, including ‘animal flow’, acrobatics, gymnastics, calisthenics and yoga. A feature of the retreat is the spectacular locations. Guests will practice yoga and hear inspiring talks in surroundings such as the resort’s impressive yoga pavilion overlooking a private idyllic beach, beside a 30-metre waterfall, or on a private island surrounded by rice paddies. There will be opportunities to trek the jungle, learn about ancient tribal culture and visit remote corners of Sumba. The Wild & Free retreat is from October 7–12, from $US3495. See nihi.com. Mountain workout chance to witness the biggest annual event on estimated to burn more than 4000 kilojoules the 4095-metre Malaysian peak. (1000 calories). On October 15, runners from around the What’s more, it is not difficult. Participants world will take part in the 30th Mount Kinabalu need be healthy and fit enough to walk five to International Climbathon, reaching the summit six hours uphill on the first day, then three hours in as little as four hours via a route that takes to the summit the next after a hearty meal regular visitors about 10 hours over two days. and overnight rest. No rock climbing skills are Tourists are welcome to watch the start at the required, just good shoes. invitation-only race in Kinabalu Park and cheer The climb is popular and booking up to six on racers to the finish. months ahead is recommended to secure Climbing Mount Kinabalu, considered a prime spaces in rest houses. The non-monsoon bucket-list activity by many, is also promoted season through February, March and April is Adventurers opting to hike Southeast Asia’s as one of the best workouts in Asia: the the best time to go. highest and most accessible mountain, Mount average trek from Kinabalu Park to Panalaban See mountkinabalu.com Kinabalu, during October will also have the on day one takes about five hours and is The good oils made from locally grown plant products and oils. appearance of stretch marks and wrinkles. The range of oils, skin, hair and body products TSV’s objectives are as noble as its products. – plus soaps and candles – are hand-made from In founding the company in 2012, Patricia Rivier sandalwood, cocoa butter, ground coffee beans and Lesley Batty have succeeding in their goal to and virgin coconut oil, as well as the lesser- provide dozens of jobs for locals, plus a new and known nangai and tamanu oils. growing market for farmers. Even the packaging Beneficial properties of nangai and tamanu is hand-made, and of clean, recycled cardboard. nut oils extend beyond simply moisturising, plus “We are very proud that our products are what TSV’s products are hand-pressed to maintain we say they are – pure and real and hand-made, their full anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial not a concoction of chemicals mixed in a test and qualities. tube,” says Batty. Nangai is especially nutritious and thought to TSV ships worldwide from its distillery near alleviate arthritis pain, and used to treat acne Port Vila. Visitors are welcome to view the Truly natural skin products are hard to find. This and eczema. Tamanu oil is also renowned in the hands-on production and distilling processes is why The Summit Vanuatu (TSV) company Pacific for a huge range of uses, from treating and browse the on-site shop. takes pride in its pure range of skin fixits, hand- hair loss to healing wounds and reducing the See thesummitvanuatu.com.

September – October 2017 105 Living gadgets BY NINA KARNIKOWSKI Gadgets and travel accessories

Recycled pocket knife Any traveller worth their salt knows that the key to a good adventure is a good pocket knife. And here’s one with a difference: Victorinox has released a limited-edition range of the nifty knives using recycled caramel-coloured ‘Livanto’ Nespresso capsules in the handle designs. With billions of Nespresso’s aluminium and plastic capsules going into landfill around the world each year, it’s nice to know our consumer dollar can see some of them being repurposed, and in a super stylish way, too. About PGK240; victorinox.com.

iPad sound boost Clever keyboard Smartphone remote For those journeys when you only have your Brydge has been creating great iPad keyboards This nifty smartphone remote can help you avoid iPad, this SoundBender is the best non-powered for a while now. But in exciting news for those awkward frozen smiles you get when using way to squeeze every dollop of sound out of Microsoft users, the company has launched its a self-timer. Just use Bluetooth to pair Satechi’s it. A magnet clips the plastic scoop-shaped first keyboard for the Surface Pro. With a slick BT Shutter Button with your smartphone, attachment around the speaker of your iPad, design and sturdy construction, the Brydge 12.3 then press the button when you want to snap directing the sound up towards you, so you clicks on to the Surface, transforming it from a blur-free photo that doesn’t feature the back get enhanced sound without wires, a power handy travel tablet to laptop. About PGK598; of your head as you run back into position. source or a bulky speaker. Comes in a variety brydgekeyboards.com. About PGK80; satechi.net. of colours, and fits iPads 2, 3 and 4. About PGK41; amazon.com.

106 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine Living gadgets

Blue-light glasses Portable router Although we’re aware that the blue light seeping One of the most frustrating travel moments has from our mobile phones, laptops and TVs can to be finding yourself in a hotel that has yet to affect our sleep quality, we still can’t help logging enter the 21st century, where you’re unable to in when we should be winding down – especially find a secure mobile hot spot. Well, you can avoid when we’re on the road. By helping to absorb it by investing in HooToo’s TripMate Elite, which 98 per cent of that blue light before you shut lets you instantly convert a wired network to a your eyes at night, these orange-tinted glasses wireless one via its Ethernet port, and also extend from UVEX (which also have an adjustable or bridge existing Wi-Fi signals. This natty device ratchet for a snug fit) can improve your sleep also works as a dual USB wall charger and power quality, helping you hit the ground running the bank, so you can charge two mobile devices at next day. About PGK53; optimoz.com.au. the same time. From about PGK140; hootoo.com.

Solar charger When you find yourself off the grid, but you still need power to charge your camera or speakers, the Anker PowerPort solar charger might be your best friend. Just unfold the compact, lightweight panels on the ground – or if you’re on the move attach them to your backpack Trendy T-shirt using the eye-holes on each corner – and start Environmentally friendly, good looking and charging your devices using the power of the sun. comfortable, the Voyager Peak T-shirt from UK- About PGK191; anker.com. brand Berghaus is a triple threat. Made from a Fossil smart watch sustainable eco fabric called ‘Colourkind’, which One of the best-looking smart watches we’ve uses 89 per cent less water and 63 per cent seen around, the Fossil Q Tailor is a discreet, fewer chemicals in its production, it also includes intelligent timepiece that connects to the Fossil in-built sun protection that helps shield your skin app on your phone via Bluetooth to send you against UV rays. Available in light grey, blue and social media, text, email, calendar and app red. About PGK163; int.berghaus.com. alerts. You can also track your fitness and sleep with it, take a photo with it, control your music or find your phone with it. The best part of all is that it looks like an elegant analogue watch and comes with stylish interchangeable straps. About PGK605; fossil.com.

Aztec camp rug If you’re feeling like your next camping adventure could use a bit of a pick-me-up, this limited edition Seek Society camp rug could be just the thing. Hand woven with a geometric Aztec design, it will look as good tossed down as a picnic rug as it will around your shoulders by a crackling fire. It comes with a stylish leather and brass carrier, so you can sling it over your shoulder or chest for hiking adventures. About PGK381; theseeksociety.com.

September – October 2017 107 Living movies BY GLENN DUNKS

Blade Runner 2049 Battle of the Sexes Flatliners Thirty-five years after Harrison Ford hunted Sport has a long tradition at the movies. In yet another long-delayed sequel to a cult androids in Los Angeles, we get the long- Boxing has been popular since the early days favourite, the 1990 techno-thriller Flatliners anticipated sequel to Blade Runner. The original of black and white silent films, but baseball, is getting a hi-tech follow-up. The original 1982 film was directed by Ridley Scott (The American football, and basketball have also starred Julia Roberts, Kevin Bacon and Martian) and left a major imprint in pop culture, been common on the big screen for decades. Kiefer Sutherland, but only the latter 24 hero even though it was not a box office success. Tennis, however, isn’t a sport that filmgoers returns in this modern update from Danish Canadian director Denis Villeneuve has taken are used to seeing outside of backyard director Niels Arden Oplev (The Girl with the over directing duties and, like he did with the matches in high society. Dragon Tattoo). Amy Adams sci-fi Arrival, he brings with him This is part of what makes Battle of the Despite 27 years since the first one became a bold vision. Sexes such an interesting film, alongside a box office smash, the story remains more Harrison Ford returns to one of his most the true story at its centre. Emma Stone or less the same. The new cast of willing iconic roles, but leading man duties have (La La Land) and Steve Carell (Foxcatcher) participants to Flatliners’ warped medical been taken on by Ryan Gosling (La La Land) star as Billie Jean King and Bobby Riggs, experiment include Ellen Page (Juno), Nina and he is joined by new cast members Jared two top athletes of the game who battled it Dobrev (The Vampire Diaries) and Diego Luna Leto (Suicide Squad) and Dave Bautista out on prime-time television in 1973. It was (Rogue One: A Star Wars Story). (Guardians of the Galaxy). an event that was watched by 90 million Five doctors attempt to discover what The original film is remembered most fondly people worldwide, attracted by King’s happens after a person dies, risking their for its evocative music and influential design energetic talents up against Riggs’ brash, lives to find out what is on the other side of of a futuristic neon-filled LA, which have chauvinistic personality. death. As these guinea pigs grow increasingly been copied and replicated by filmmakers Directed by Jonathan Dayton and Valerie brazen with their deadly tests, they discover since it premiered. Both of these are a heavy Faris, this husband and wife team found that their brains are effectively being rewired, part of this new film. In many ways Blade success in 2006 with Little Miss Sunshine and they are also bringing back something Runner 2049 feels similar to the recent Mad and it makes perfect sense for a male– sinister with them to the world of the living, Max: Fury Road: it is a stylish continuation of female directing team to take the reins on and the barrier between the living and the a long-dormant franchise, but with all of the this comedy with a social edge. dead begins to shift. The horrors found in slick and mega-budget modern thrills that Stone, fresh off her recent Academy Award Flatliners promise to thrill fans of the original audiences today expect. win, is well cast in a role that utilises her and to bring in new fans who won’t be comic skills. familiar with the film’s death-defying stunts.

Port Moresby’s Paradise Cinema screens many of our reviewed movies. For screening dates and session times, see paradisecinemaspng.com.

108 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Living Books BY GREG CLARKE

Aitape Story: The Great New Under the Sun (Pan Macmillan), About How to Be a Person in Guinea Tsunami of 1998 by Lottie Moggach the World (Penguin), by Heather (Halstead Press), by Hugh Davies Havrilesky This, the author’s second novel, follows her In 1998, a tsunami struck Aitape, a small town critically acclaimed debut novel, Kiss Me First. This New York Times love and relationships on the north coast of Papua New Guinea, and Under the Sun has been described as bestseller is from the author of the much- nearby villages. urgent, gripping and brilliantly observed, and read advice column Ask Polly in New York Hugh Davies is a professor of geology at while this might be a work of fiction some of magazine’s The Cut. the University of Papua New Guinea (UPNG). the themes within it – heartbreak, identity, In this collection of her work, Havrilesky Born in Australia he first visited PNG in 1957. migration and finding a place to call home – guides readers through the ‘what if’s’ and In 1994, Davies assisted volcanologists have places in many of our lives. ‘I don’t knows’ of modern life. Tough love, after the volcanic eruption that laid waste to The story’s main character, Anna, leaves wisdom and wit are found in the author’s Rabaul. From 1998 to 2001 he was intimately her small but perfect London flat, her job responses to lovers or haters, the anxious involved with many aspects of the Aitape as a graphic designer, and her friends to or the down-and-out. tsunami aftermath. embark on a new life. She’s fallen in love with Should you quit your day job to follow your His book, in part, recounts the events of an artist. Her new perfect world includes dreams? How do you rein in an overbearing July 17, 1998, after the waves (there were renovating a finca (Spanish farmhouse). mother? Will you ever stop dating wishy- three) pummelled Aitape, swept away two But three years later the dream has washy, non-committal men? Should you put villages – Warapu and Arop – and damaged shattered. At the lowest point of the Global off having a baby for your career? others. Up to 2200 people died, many were Financial Crisis, Anna is left alone in Spain – The praise from the author’s peers is injured, and about 11,000 people abandoned with a finca she can’t sell. With few options extensive. their coastal village sites and moved inland. she takes up running a bar for English expats, “The best advice column of her generation,” The book covers many aspects of the many of them also trying to go home. gushed one writer in Esquire. disaster, including the emergency response, When a local businessman asks to rent the and serves as a tribute to those who died. finca on a long lease, Anna wonders if this Davies lived among the Aitape survivors for might be the key to rebuilding her life. But the months. “I know part of him never left the man might not be who he says he is, and when tsunami-affected area,” wrote one friend. a body washes up on the beach, it’s clear that The book can be bought from the University Anna’s troubles are only just beginning. Bookshop, UPNG.

110 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

strictly business from www.businessadvantagepng.com

PNG’s best cocoa on show

Cocoa is PNG’s third major commodity export after palm oil and coffee. Annette Sete reports on the industry’s inaugural cocoa of excellence show.

apua New Guinea’s inaugural cocoa PNG has won awards in the international Wartovo, the export quality assurance of excellence show at Kokopo earlier cocoa arena previously, including in 2015 manager of the Cocoa Board of Papua this year attracted farmers from across when cocoa produced in lower Watut was New Guinea. Pthe country. rated in the top five in the world. “Quality cocoa is our strength and we have One of the aims of the 2017 Air Niugini to protect it and promote it at all costs,” PNG Cocoa Warwagira (warwagira means he says. ‘show’ in the local Tolai language) was to “Papua New Guinea cocoa has long been find the best cocoa to represent PNG at the Papua New Guinea recognised as of the highest quality.” International Cocoa of Excellence show in He says PNG has the genetic material, Paris in November. cocoa has long been good climate and soils to produce the very Farmers were judged in various categories, recognised as of the best cocoa. including best cocoa quality and best- Six international chocolate judges were managed block. highest quality. involved in the Kokopo event. New cocoa farmer, Grace Klembasa, from They included Nathaniel Bletter, co-founder West Sepik, won gold ahead of 36 finalists and ‘Flavormeister’ at Madre Chocolates selected from 158 entries. in Hawaii; Lynn Jahnke from Charleys Klembasa is a smallholder with 2000 trees The show, which will now be staged bi- Chocolates in Australia; Luke Spencer from and it was her first harvest. annually, also aimed to address cocoa quality Spencer Chocolates in Australia; Sam Ratto Kulkul Plantation on Karkar Island, Madang, issues and to organise group marketing to tap from Videri Chocolates in the US; Martin got silver, and bronze went to John Yalabing, into niche markets. Christy, founder of the chocolate review a smallholder in lower Watut in Morobe. Currently, PNG produces only one to two website Seventy %; and David Peate, former Ramandu Plantation, in East New Britain, per cent of the world’s cocoa. managing director of Paradise Foods in PNG. and Madang’s Kulili Plantation were also “Therefore, our major strength lies in the Christy, the heady juror, said PNG’s cocoa commended for their quality. quality of cocoa produced,” says Naithel can compete with the world’s best in terms of

112 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine strictly business Cocoa PICTURES: ANNETTE SETE, MERIBA TULO MERIBA SETE, ANNETTE PICTURES:

Cocoa show … (this page, clockwise from top left) an Ilugi farmer showing off his cocoa pods at the inaugural Cocoa of Excellence Show; more pods; a PNG flag flying on a cocoa float; winners and organisers at the show; (opposite page) a mouth-watering blend. its great flavours and bean quality. However, employment for 10,000 in spin-off activities he said, more work needs to be done to such as transportation, retailing and The stories in our ‘Strictly improve fermentation for PNG farmers to sell wholesaling. Business’ section were consistently into high-end markets. Air Niugini was the naming rights sponsor first published in PNG’s Cocoa is PNG’s third major commodity of the event, which was also supported by export after palm oil and coffee. It is valued the Cocoa Board of Papua New Guinea, the online business magazine, at PGK360 million per year and supports Pacific Horticultural and Agricultural Market businessadvantagepng.com, 150,000 households. Access program and the World Bank’s and are re-published by It is estimated that the industry is Productive Partnerships in Agriculture Project. arrangement with Business responsible for creating direct employment The next cocoa warwagira will be in Lae Advantage International. for 6000 people in PNG and indirect in 2018. n

Cocoa is on the up The most recent cocoa market reports show Production and exports are expected to that cocoa production has peaked at 40,508 further increase over the next three years, tonnes after the cocoa pod borer devastated Gaupu says. the industry in 2006. The increase in production is attributed According to Cocoa Board of PNG’s chief to conducive weather that supports crop executive officer, Boto Gaupu, production development in PNG and the success of last year was up by 20 per cent, which various programs, he says. resulted in increased export revenue by The programs include freight subsidies, 32 per cent. alleviating the acute shortage of seeds, “Cocoa production and exports in 2015 was and ensuring there is availability of clonal 37,571 tonnes, an increase of 6856 tonnes,” planting materials that can withstand the he says. cocoa pod borer.

September – October 2017 113 strictly business strategy Singapore link for PNG

ingapore is being taken seriously as also important for trade coming in and out PNG businesses seeking a location for Papua New Guinean of the country. to establish themselves businesses. Last year, finance “Singapore’s geographical location allows Scompany Moni Plus announced a it to play an important role in terms of origin in the Asian region are reverse takeover by Jaya Holdings that of imports to Papua New Guinea and also would see it listed on the Singapore Stock exports from Papua New Guinea,” Lee says. increasingly viewing Exchange (SGX). The aim was to diversify the Director of PNG Economics, Paul Flanagan, Singapore as a stepping company’s shareholder base, according to says to expect an increase in Singapore- managing director, David Kelso. registered companies with PNG linkages, stone to other markets. PNG’s biggest bank, Bank South Pacific, has as part of a globalising world. also looked at listing on the SGX, although “The key issue will be if Papua New Sarah Byrne reports. those plans have been shelved. Digicel, Guinea’s growth rate in such registrations PNG’s biggest telco, relocated its regional or linkages is growing faster or slower than headquarters from Sydney to Singapore. other countries. Deloitte PNG managing partner, Benjamin “This would be a partial metric to judge the Lee, says that Singapore plays a key role for hypothetical that Papua New Guinea could companies attempting to explore business become a hub between Asia and the Pacific,” opportunities outside of PNG. He says it is Flanagan adds.

114 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine strictly business strategy

“Several Singaporean businesses have shown a keen interest in investing in or starting new businesses in Papua New Guinea, and we’ve had many inquiries from new entrants trying to enter the Papua New Guinean market,” Hughes says. The increasing number of Asian- headquartered multinationals opening operations in PNG shows interest in the region and will assist in providing sustainable economic growth for the country. “While Singapore has been good for multinationals entering the Papua New Guinean market, it has also been critical for Papua New Guinean businesses offering maximum exposure through access to this The Singapore skyline ... PNG businesses are being attracted to the Lion City. global trading hub,” Hughes explains. Foreign exchange shortages are a challenge Singapore’s free economy, with one of the Singapore has become a global hub for for business in PNG and could be a driver for lowest levels of taxes, makes the country an businesses seeking to trade with multiple companies basing themselves in Singapore, attractive option for companies setting up a countries, including PNG, according to Westpac Flanagan says. n base to invest in PNG, Lee says. PNG managing director, Adrian Hughes.

September – October 2017 115 strictly business Retail

PNG cafe plans to open in China Duffy cafes have been a runaway success in Port Moresby; now there are plans to take them beyond PNG shores. Kevin McQuillan reports.

ive years after opening the first of three Duffy cafes in Port Moresby, owner and entrepreneur Travers Chue is preparing Fto expand overseas, marketing Papua New Guinean specialty coffee and premium health products. “When we first started Duffy’s, our goal Brewing up a global expansion ... the Duffy store in China will sell a wide range of PNG products, including coconut water, cocoa and honey. was to create the first specialty coffee house in PNG, but now we want to manufacture “Once we get our feet wet and learn the outside of the country, rather than just relying premium health products in PNG and ropes of doing business in China, then – only on the domestic market.” export them to China and across the globe,” then – do we plan to spread our wings. Chue’s approach to expanding to China is says Chue. “The plan is to use our cafe business, which based around being a coffee shop and coffee He has plans to open his first outlet in hopefully will have several outlets, to distribute brand that originates “from this exotic and China’s southern city of Guangzhou by the these products to the Chinese market.” mysterious land called PNG”. middle of 2018. At present, he is finalising The secret, he says, is producing an exact location. consistently high quality beans. The project is being funded through the He praises the Coffee Industry Corporation family-owned, PNG-based parent company, We intend serving the for its annual PNG Cupping Competition. Pacific Industries. “We are trying to teach the farmers that, if “We are planning to kick off very modestly best premium-grade their coffee is getting higher cupping scores in China with one store, which will be specialty coffee that PNG due to implementing and following strict approximately 150 to 200 square metres. procedures and practice, then we – the has to offer. This is going roasters – are willing to pay higher prices for to be key to success in their hard work. “Growers need to see that there is more China. profit to be made in producing higher-grade coffee, from which they can earn more bang for buck.” He says it is the only way coffee farmers He says products may include coconut can overcome poor infrastructure, erratic water from Rabaul, cocoa from Bougainville weather conditions, deteriorating tools and and organic honey from the Highlands. minimal training. Chue is a firm believer in PNG and the “Most people who know PNG most export potential of its pristine products. probably know the country for its great “We have so much potential for exports coffee – and we intend serving them the with our rich and resourceful land. Businesses best premium-grade specialty coffee that in PNG should be focusing on capitalising on PNG has to offer. This is going to be key to Travers Chue ... wants to take Duffy to China. this and trying to expand their operations success in China.” n

116 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine strictly business INFRASTRUCTURE Big fix for Highlands Highway The wheels are turning on a 10-year repair and maintenance program for PNG’s most important road. Kevin McQuillan reports.

ork on the ‘most critical’ Works Department secretary, David 90-kilometre section of the Wereh, says he is excited by the project Highlands Highway will begin because it is “workable and has long-term Wlater this year, under an funding”. By the end of this ambitious 10-year repair and maintenance The funding will come from the year, we should have program funded by the Asian Development Asian Development Bank’s proposed Bank. Sustainable Highlands Highway Investment a number of key The Works Department recently advertised Program, aimed at ensuring that contracts going out for expressions of interest from road building the 430-kilometres of two-lane highway companies to gauge interest in the US$1 from Lae to Mount Hagen is rehabilitated, and construction work billion (PGK3.2 billion) project. The aim is upgraded and effectively maintained. started. to once and for all make PNG’s main arterial “Of all the roads we have in the country, the route, the Highlands Highway, a truly Highlands Highway is the most important,” international quality highway. says Wereh.

118 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine strictly business INFRASTRUCTURE

“It services three-quarters of the population. All the major mining and petroleum projects are located in the region.” Seven hundred kilometres overall, the highway begins in Lae, travels through the Markham Valley, then climbs over the UPE ROBERT PICTURE: 1500-metre-high Kassam Pass to the Eastern Highlands capital, Goroka. It then goes over the 2478-metre-high Daulo Pass, through Jiwaka Province to the Western Highlands provincial capital Mount Hagen, before splitting into two. One branch goes through the Southern Highlands’ capital, Mendi, finishing at Tari; The long and winding road … the other goes through the Enga provincial a stretch of the 700-kilometre capital, Wabag, before finishing at the Highlands Highway near Tari. Porgera gold mine. For most of its length, the Highlands the most critical 90-kilometre section, which Maintenance of the road is a key part of Highway is no more than a single carriageway runs from the Daulo Pass in Chimbu, going the package, says Wereh. two-lane road, full of pot-holes and prone through to the Jiwaka–Chimbu border. He says the 10-year plan will see to landslides. “By the end of this year, we should have various sections of the road being built Wereh says the plan is to start drawing a number of key contracts going out and simultaneously, rather than working from down immediately about PGK1 billion for construction work started.” one end to the other. n

September – October 2017 119 strictly business Coffee awk , TKCP yan H : R s PICTURE

A caffeine hit Something unusual is happening on PNG’s Huon Peninsula. Brian Johnston looks at how local villagers have got involved in saving tree kangaroos by growing coffee and selling it into the US.

magine a group of conservation local villagers to ‘exploit’ it by scientists sitting around a growing coffee. coffeepot one day on their The rest, as they say, is history. Imorning break, and posing a The tree kangaroos are thriving, riddle like something from a Dr the locals have an income Seuss tale. What could a good source, and the coffee – with its brew do to save a nice ’roo? smooth body and subtle aromas The answer, as it happens, is of hazelnut and orange zest – is ‘quite a lot’. While it mightn’t now being sold over the Pacific have been a eureka moment over in the hipster cafes of Seattle. morning coffee, researchers in The scientists have created a Papua New Guinea have come up caffeine hit. with a seemingly counterintuitive The story of the ’roo and the plan to protect endangered brew started in 2009 with Matschie’s tree kangaroos. Yes, the establishment of YUS set up a protected area – a Conservation Area, named for standard in the conservation three rivers (the Yopno, Uruwa world – but then encourage and Som) in a remote region of

120 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine strictly business Coffee

from the conservation area. pioneers of the ‘farm direct’ The solution was to create movement, which seeks to a strongly protected core in develop long-term, mutually this mountainous landscape, beneficial relationships between surrounded by more flexible, farmers and businesses. It was mixed-use buffer zones that already dealing with small-scale, local communities could put to sustainable coffee growers in environmentally friendly use. far-flung places, and quickly Small-scale farming was became interested in the idea one such use, and already of YUS coffee. practised across the Huon “Caffe Vita stepped up not Peninsula. Coffee growing wasn’t only to provide the structure necessarily the obvious choice and market support, but they of crop, however. True, the even came with us to Papua rich soils, climate and altitude New Guinea to meet the all favoured coffee, but coffee farmers, train them on coffee farming had been tried and cultivation techniques and help abandoned in the 1950s because them improve their product to of the challenges of transporting the sensibilities of the gourmet the product to market from this Seattle coffee market,” explains rugged, road-less region. That Dr Lisa Dabek, director of the coffee was, however, directed Tree Kangaroo Conservation at the local market. This coffee Program (TKCP). Fruits of labour ... Tep Tep villagers with coffee cherries (opposite page); would absorb the high cost The YUS Conservation Coffee tree kangaroo (above); a handful of freshly picked coffee berries (above left); of transport by light plane by Project thus became a joint YUS locals (above). being sold internationally, at effort between conservation a premium. groups, PNG’s Coffee Industry PNG’s Huon Peninsula. US-based other activities is all very well, It seemed like an absurdly Corporation and Caffe Vita. Some Conservation International and but it never works effectively ambitious plan, but Woodland 400 families were trained in Woodland Park Zoo in Seattle unless locals can be convinced of Park Zoo had a fortuitous coffee farming and processing, had been working on the project its benefits – particularly in PNG, advantage in hometown Seattle, and improved drying conditions for a decade. The Huon Peninsula where most land remains under coffee capital of the US and a for the coffee beans were provides critical habitat for local ownership. world centre for coffee roasting established. “The farmers of YUS several species, including the Some 12,000 villagers inhabit and supply. have shown remarkable progress remarkable tree kangaroo. 35 villages in the YUS region, Enter Caffe Vita Coffee toward implementing the Declaring a conservation area so it was vital that they could Roasting Company, founded in changes necessary to improve that prohibits logging, mining and draw sustainable benefits Seattle in 1995 and one of the yields, and, more importantly,

September – October 2017 121 strictly business Coffee A caffeine hit the quality of their coffee,” international coffee markets. comments Daniel Shewmaker, In 2014, the innovative project Caffe Vita’s coffee buyer. “Our was vindicated when the goal is the continual refinement Local PNG hip pockets have benefited. TKCP was award a prestigious of these farming and processing Better technical knowledge and access Equator Prize by the United practices.” Nations for this sustainable local The first-ever direct trade cash to an international market have seen development project. crop in the YUS region began to their earnings increase 60 per cent since The coffee project continues flourish. In early 2012 the first the inception of the coffee project in 2011. to grow. “Through this process 22 bags of coffee were shipped we have been warmly welcomed to Seattle and sold both in drink into the YUS community. It is an form and as beans for retail sale. honour and privilege to roast this The coffee has a flavour that remarkable coffee and share in Caffe Vita describes as mellow, region where villagers have few Morobe Province, in which YUS creating a better future for their honey-like and nutty. Australian viable sources of income. Better Conservation Area lies, has leapt families and the conservation online retailer Jasper Coffee technical knowledge and access up the list of coffee-producing of their land,” says Dabek. We describes it as ‘sweet creamy to an international market have provinces in PNG, which the might suppose that the scientists biscuit praline’ with ‘hints of deep seen their earnings increase 60 Coffee Industry Corporation says have benefited too, as they sit toffee chocolate’. per cent since the inception of is due, among other reasons, to around their coffeepot, inhaling It isn’t just the tastebuds of the coffee project in 2011; the partnerships with organisations the mellow, nutty aroma of kopi Seattleites that have benefited. money is used to buy household such as the TKCP and the YUS and waiting for that caffeine Local PNG hip pockets have goods and provide access to determination of Morobe farmers kick to provide their minds with benefited, too, in a remote better education and health care. to sell their coffee in high-value the next bright idea. n

“Thank you NDB for helping local farmers”

MAGANISO AIKE ASA FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

122 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Brain gym quiz, puzzles, crossword

CRYPTIC CLUES 14. Sheikh said to quaver with DoubleTake emotion (5) ACROSS 15. Not being able to move, I take Tackle either set of these clues – you can even 1. As little sister, Ted gave on crippling rent (5) mix and match them, because the solutions are support (8) 17. Rip off hidden bureau’s camera the same for both sets. 6. Discuss alternative blade (3) (4) 7. Kidnap with a catapult (8) 8. Show disapproval of box office STRAIGHT CLUES originally (3) ACROSS 10. Girls after a short time get 1. Helped (8) syrupy stuff (8) 6. Paddle (3) 13. I’m going into estate to give 7. Chinese port (8) quote (8) 8. Ghost’s greeting (3) 16. How to know in advance that 10. Sugar-refining by-product (8) Virginia will abandon Vespa (1,1,1) 13. Rough figure (8) 18. “Where is bread made from 16. Sixth sense (1,1,1) beer?” I ask (8) 18. Cake shops (8) 19. Overweight from the odd feast 19. Dripping (3) (3) 20. Repaired (artwork) (8) 20. Renovated store in the red (8) DOWN DOWN 1. Gather together (8) 1. Put bits and pieces together to 2. Steady (6) make meal, Bess (8) 3. Writes own name (5) 2. Horse’s home remains 4. Dodge (fare) (5) unchanged (6) 5. US health facility, ... Clinic (4) 3. Sings out warnings (5) 9. Totally consumed (by) (8) 4. Dave went back east to escape 11. Rested in chair (3) (5) 12. More effortless (6) 5. Irish county found mayor right 14. Seal deal, ... hands (5) away (4) 15. Still (5) 9. Fixated bosses upset editor (8) 17. Confidence trick (4) 11. Posed for artist in satin (3) 12. Simpler ideas I eradicated in part (6)

Create as many words of 4 letters or more using the given letters once only but Wheel Words always including the middle letter. Do not use proper names or plurals. See if you can find the 9-letter word using up all letters. 7 Good 15 Very Good 20+ Excellent

124 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Solution: Baud, Beau, Cube, Cued, Curb, Curd, Cure, Daub, Drub, Ecru, Rude, Rued, Urea, Crude, Cubed, Cured, Deuce, Educe, Redub, Curbed, Dauber, Dubber, Earbud, Reduce, Rubbed, Barbecue. 9-letter word: BARBECUED. brain gym puzzles SOLUTIONS, PAGE 126

The Paradise Quiz HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW THE REGION?

1. In the practice of ‘shark calling’, how do PNG men attract sharks to 10. Which is the only country with an emperor? their outrigger canoes? 11. The flag of which country is flown with its blue stripe up to indicate 2. How are the sharks then caught? the nation is at peace, but red stripe up to indicate it is at war? 3. What is the name for a traditional Papua New Guinean drum? 12. What is rendang? 4. How many Australian cities does Air Niugini fly to? 13. In which city do you need a certificate of entitlement, valid for 10 years, just for the right to own and drive a car? 5. The charitable organisation Oxfam has helped train PNG farmers in apiculture. What is apiculture? 14. What is a joss house? 6. How many toes does a cassowary have on each foot? 15. Name the seed (pictured). 7. Who is Gautam Adani? 8. Which book does Filipino politician and boxer Manny Pacquiao read every day? 9. Who defeated Manny Pacquiao for the WBO welterweight boxing title in July? Sudoku Fill the grid so that every column, every row and every 3x3 box contains the numbers 1 to 9. Rating:

September – October 2017 125 brain gym solutions

Solutions

Wheel Words Solution: Baud, Beau, Cube, Cued, Curb, Curd, Cure, Daub, Drub, Ecru, Rude, Rued, Urea, Crude, Cubed, Cured, Deuce, Educe, Redub, Curbed, Dauber, Dubber, Earbud, Reduce, Rubbed, Barbecue. 9-letter word: BARBECUED The Paradise quiz answers 1. By vigorous shaking of a coconut-shell rattle in the water. 2. By hand. 3. Kundu. 4. Four: Brisbane, Cairns, Townsville and Sydney. 5. Beekeeping. 6. Three. The middle toe has a dagger-like claw that the big bird can use as a weapon. 7. An Indian billionaire developing the huge Carmichael coal-mining project in Queensland. 8. The Bible. 9. Jeff Horn. 10. Japan. 11. Philippines. 12. A spicy dish (usually beef) that originated in Indonesia and includes coconut milk and spices. 13. Singapore. Certificates are obtained through a bidding system, and can cost around $S50,000 if you want to buy and drive a medium-sized car. 14. A Chinese temple. 15. Betel nut.

126 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine YOUR ONE STOP COMMUNICATION SHOP Offering only the trusted brands with a high performance track record in Papua New Guinea

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Email over HF radio Guaranteed Service Uncontended Service Standard & Tailored packages Custom end to end Networks Remote site installations Shared Service using iDirect iNFINITI Technology Tailored Packages Speci cally designed for PNG Environment and Voip Phone Provisions geographical landscapes STAY CONNECTED.. s ANYWHERE Ask us today how we can ﬁnd a Solution for you!

charter services are available for travel to remote locations. HEALTH Serious medical conditions typically require treatment outside the country. Travellers should ensure they have adequate health cover (the cost of medical evacuation alone can reach $US30,000). Visitors should also note that malaria is prevalent in PNG and there have been cases of measles and tuberculosis in some

PICTURE: PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY, DAVID KIRKLAND parts of the country. MONEY PNG’s currency is the kina (PGK). ANZ and Bank of South Pacific (BSP) have branches at Port Moresby’s international airport. ATMs are located around Port Moresby, Lae and other urban centres. CLIMATE buy a local SIM card and pre-paid Car hire: Deal with one of the SAFETY credit (including data packs for international names and ask them With the exception of the Highlands, While the situation is not as bad smartphones). to provide a driver (around PGK400 PNG has a warm tropical climate. as portrayed by some international per day). With the poor state of The wet season in Port Moresby is It is much cheaper to make media, you should always take roads, especially in Lae, 4WDs/ from December to April. international calls from PNG than precautions, especially at night. SUVs are recommended. vice versa. COMMUNICATIONS Airport transfers: For arrival/ TIME ZONE Complimentary Wi-Fi is becoming Internet: Web access in Port departure in Port Moresby, any PNG has a single time zone, more common at hotels, and is also Moresby has improved immensely of the hotels listed in this guide 10 hours ahead of UTC/GMT. available at Jacksons International in recent years. Although it can be will provide a complimentary Airport. EATING, DRINKING, costly, all the Port Moresby hotels transfer. listed in this guide provide a fast- ELECTRICITY SOCIALISING IN PORT speed internet service. In other Domestic flights: Travelling The current in PNG is 240V AC MORESBY urban centres, you may still be within PNG often means taking 50Hz, using Australian-style plugs. Airways Hotel: Port Moresby’s relying on dial-up. For those staying an internal flight (for instance, ritziest hotel has several places longer, wireless internet, via a you cannot drive between Port GETTING AROUND to eat. If you’re after fine dining, USB modem, is available, although Moresby and Lae). Air Niugini As a general rule in PNG, you need Bacchus is the place to go. For download speeds can vary. offers passengers the chance to to plan your travel carefully. book (and check in) online but something more casual, go Phone: International mobile phone Taxis: Recommended firms are make sure you print out a copy of poolside, where Deli KC’s serves roaming is possible in PNG but it Comfort (325 3046) and Scarlet your receipt to show at the check- antipasto, salads, sandwiches, is costly. A cheaper option is to (7220 7000). in counter. Aircraft and helicopter milkshakes, espresso and a ➤

128 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE

limited Italian menu for dinner. also has fine dining at the Rapala business. It’s Asian with a fusion Stanley Hotel and Suites: This The Poolside Bar should not be restaurant, where the steaks and of flavours from China, Thailand new hotel in Waigani has several missed for its garlic prawns. The garlic prawns are impressive. and Vietnam. Takeaway available. restaurant choices, including Vue Restaurant, which has a buffet Old-fashioned crepes suzette See facebook.com/pages/Fusion- the fine-dining Silver Leaf on the each morning and evening, as well makes an appearance here, too, Bistro/199229050205354. 17th floor, and the chic tapas- as an a la carte menu, has stunning and is cooked at your table. style Monsoon Lounge, which Grand Papuan Brasserie: views. This is also the place for is great for after-work drinks on Daikoku: The extensive Japanese The funky Grand Papua Hotel traditional rectangular, wood-fired the leather-lounge seating. The menu has teppanyaki, donburi bar serves up cocktails and has Italian pizza. See airways.com.pg. casual Green Haus restaurant has bowls and a large range of sushi. a decent wine list, along with all-day dining, including buffet Aviat Club: The club is open Tucked away above the SVS some tasty tapas-style bar food. dinners with live cooking stations. for breakfast, lunch and dinner. shopping centre in Harbour City, Grab a seat in one of the huge, See thestanleypng.com. Home-style meals include stir- chefs will whip up your meal black leather chairs or head to fries, toasted sandwiches and at your table. The teppanyaki the Brasserie, which has a nightly Tasty Bites: This Indian salt-and-pepper prawns. This is menu includes several courses. buffet. The a la carte menu is restaurant is tucked away in a great spot to sit at lunchtime See daikokupng.com. good and the steaks are delicious. the town centre in Hunter Street under the shady mango trees, See grandpapuahotel.com.pg. near Crowne Plaza. You won’t Duffy Cafe, Gabaka Street: or in the air-conditioned bar. get a table unless you book. This has rapidly become popular Lamana Hotel: You’re spoilt for See facebook.com/pages/Aviat- Tel. +675 321 2222. among the expat community, choice here with three restaurants Club/141553252563094. with excellent coffee and (Spices, The Italian, and Rio’s Vision City: PNG’s first major Cafe on the Edge: There are homemade cafe-style food. at the Temple), Cafe Palazzo, shopping mall houses an increasing good hamburgers here and See facebook.com/duffypng. Lanes Ten Pin Bowling, and PNG’s array of eateries. The cavernous breakfast options such as eggs biggest nightclub, The Gold Club. Dynasty (Chinese) and the Dynasty at Vision City: This benedict, avocado and crispy See lamanahotel.com.pg. Ten (Japanese) are stand-outs. may be the biggest restaurant bacon. The servings are generous. See visioncity.com.pg. in Port Moresby. Its size, its Royal Papua Yacht Club: Located under the residential chandeliers and its gold decor Relaxed, spacious and open to buildings at Harbour City, behind PORT MORESBY HOTELS make it a favourite for balls, non-members. Comfort food, the ANZ and BSP banks. See Airways Hotel: Airways is dinners and parties. The menu is draught beer and an open-plan facebook.com/edgebythesea/. located within a large, secure huge, too, with pages of Asian bar area showing sport on large compound next to Jacksons Crowne Plaza Hotel: There dishes. Don’t miss yum cha on screens. See rpyc.com.pg. International Airport. An inspiring are multiple eating options at Sundays. See facebook.com/ Seoul House: This restaurant setting, luxurious rooms, excellent Crowne. The in-house restaurant pages/Dynasty-Restaurant-Vision- specialises in Korean and Thai food, service and very good food includes a buffet for breakfast City/148278471918956. cooked on the hot plate right in options. See airways.com.pg. (eggs cooked to order), as well as Fusion: This is one of the newer front of you. Seoul House is tucked Tel. +675 324 5200. lunch and dinner. It’s one of the restaurants in the city and away in a garden oasis compound few restaurants in Port Moresby Crowne Plaza: Upmarket rooms always seems to be doing great in Five Mile. Tel. +675 325 2231. with gluten-free choices. The hotel and suites in the heart of the ➤

130 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE

CBD. Decent gym, business sushi. See hornibrook.com.pg/ centre, undercover parking, crossroads/. Tel. +675 475 1124. thriving cafe and Mediterranean restaurant. Tel. +675 309 3329. LAE HOTELS Ela Beach Hotel and Crossroads Hotel: A 45-room Apartments: On the fringe of the facility at Nine Mile. The hotel has CDB, this constantly expanding a Japanese-themed teppanyaki hotel/apartment complex is part restaurant with Asian/Western of the Coral Sea Hotels group. Its fusion menus, full bar service, a main eatery is popular at lunchtime. well-equipped gym, Wi-Fi and See coralseahotels.com.pg. complimentary transfers both to Lae City and Nadzab Airport. See Gateway Hotel: Another lamanahotel.com.pg. Tel. +675 Lae Golf Club, a fully stocked bar hornibrook.com.pg/crossroads/. member of Coral Sea Hotels, Tel. +675 475 1124. this hotel is located next to the 323 2333. and Foxtel connection to preview all the racing and sporting events. airport. A range of amenities Stanley Hotel and Suites: Port Lae City Hotel: One of the Tel. +675 7347 1058. include Port Moresby’s largest Moresby’s newest hotel (opened newest hotels in town, offering dedicated meeting space. See in July, 2016) is a luxurious 429- Lae International Hotel: Home to a 24-hour concierge service. coralseahotels.com.pg. room property in Waigani, close to three restaurants – Luluai’s Italian Located in the main Top Town government offices and embassies. Pizza, Vanda and Kokomo – which area, it also has an excellent cafe Grand Papua: This premium and restaurant with Western and hotel opened in late 2011 and It has 95 long-stay apartments, all serve an array of international gym, pool, cafe, restaurants and and Western cuisine, including Asian cuisine. See laecityhotel. features 156 suite rooms (short com. Tel. +675 472 0138. and long stay), an executive floor, an executive lounge. Connected Indian and seafood buffets. The gym and conference facilities. to Vision City Mega Mall. See Sportsman’s Bar (aka Jack’s Bar) Lae International Hotel: The The separate restaurant and bar thestanleypng.com. Tel. + 675 302 is also a good place for a nightcap, city’s premier hotel has recently areas are popular for business 8888. or two. See laeinterhotel.com. renovated rooms, full bar service, meetings. Centrally located. EATING, DRINKING, Tel. +675 472 7000. conference and banquet halls, a See grandpapuahotel.com.pg. Lae International Hotel gym and pool. See laeinterhotel. Tel. +675 304 0000. SOCIALISING IN LAE Whether it’s after a round of golf com. Tel. +675 472 2000. Holiday Inn: Located in Waigani. Bunga Raya Restaurant: A local or just an excuse to catch up Lae Travellers Inn: An Large grounds include walking favourite, serving Malaysian-style with friends, the club is excellent affordable option, offering clean track, in a tropical garden setting. Chinese. Located next door to the for a few sundowners as you and comfortable rooms. Just a Outdoor restaurant and bar area, Lae Golf Club. Be sure to try the overlook the stunning green. few minutes from the centre of business centre and gym. stuffed lettuce cups, laksa and Tel. +675 472 1363. town, the inn also has conference Includes three-star Holiday Inn claypot tofu. Tel. +675 472 7177. Lae Yacht Club: The perfect facilities and a small restaurant serving Western and Indian Express hotel. See ihg.com. Chigi’s Cafe: A delightful place place for late-afternoon beers, cuisine. Tel. +675 479 0411. Tel. +675 303 2000. inside the temporary Brian Bell or just as nice for a relaxing lunch. Laguna Hotel: The 60-room store near the Lae main markets. Serves pub-style food including For general information property is a five-minute drive Serves good coffee, milkshakes, burgers, steaks and pizza, which about Lae, see lcci.org.pg from the heart of Port Moresby sandwiches, cakes and salads. goes down a treat with the and rainylae.com. and features a lagoon-style pool, Tel. +675 7217 1966. surrounding views of the Huon free airport transfers, free Wi-Fi Gulf. See laeyachtclub.com.pg. Free Wi-Fi at airport Golden Aviat: A good option Tel. +675 472 4091. and free buffet breakfast. for Chinese, located on Huon Domestic and international See lagunahotelpng.com. Road in Eriku. Open for lunch and Mountain View Restaurant: passengers at Port Moresby’s Tel. +675 323 9333. dinner and yum cha on Sundays. One of Lae’s newest restaurants airport can connect to free Wi-Fi. Lamana Hotel: In Waigani, the Tel. +675 472 0486. is at the Crossroads Hotel at Nine hotel has 24-hour free airport Mile. Open for breakfast, lunch and HELPFUL WEBSITES Huon Club: A private members’ dinner, be sure to try the Japanese Air Niugini, airniugini.com.pg transfers, free in-room Wi-Fi, a club, offering air-conditioned conference centre, restaurants, fusion menu – it’s the only place Business Advantage PNG, facilities, comfortable lounge chairs, in town where you can get good and the famous Gold Club. See an expansive deck overlooking the businessadvantagepng.com n

132 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine JOIN US AT PORT MORESBY’S PREMIERE DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT DESTINATION

STEAK - SEAFOOD - SALAD

All kinds of goodness... for the whole family! Modern, stylish surroundings, great ambience and a great choice of dining styles from the grill to buffet, salad bars and gourmet stone-fired pizza - fine food to dine in or take away, Gateway Hotel is the food and entertainment destination for Port Moresby. Open Daily for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Bookings: 327 8100 | coralseahotels.com.pg arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE

TWO-MINUTE GUIDE TO TOK PISIN WORDS/PHRASES Papua New Guinea has more How much is this? One beer, please. Restaurant than 800 languages, but the Dispela em hamas? Wanpela bia plis. Ples bilong kaikai three official languages are Tok Thank you very much. Why? Bilong wanem? Goodbye Gutbai Pisin, English and Motu. Here, we Tenkiu tru. outline some Tok Pisin, which is How many children do you Hello Halo the largest lingua franca of PNG. You understand English? have? Yu gat hamaspla Water Wara Yu save long tok Inglis? pikinini? Where do I find a taxi? Baggage Kago Bai mi painim taxi long we? Where is my bag? Where are you from? Bag bilong mi istap we? Yu bilong wanem hap? Airport Ples balus One coffee with milk, please. Place Ples Wanpela kap kopi wantaim Where can I change my I don’t know. Mi no save. milk plis. money? What do you want? Fish Pis Wanem hap bai mi ken Yu laikim wanem samting? Where is the toilet? senisim moni bilong mi? Toilet istap we?

Numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Wan Tu Tri Foa Faiv Sikis Seven Et Nain Ten

134 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE

Gerehu Port Moresby University of Papua New Guinea Morata Eight Mile Port Moresby Nature Park To Bomana War Cemetery W a Waigani To Motukea Island, the ig a PNG LNG plant and Ensisi n i Royal Napa Napa Refinery D r Port Moresby y w H Golf Club y ra National ur M t Museum er b u Parliament H Laguna Hotel Kumul Flyover PNG Erima Vision City Stanley Hotel Sir John Guise Stadium Lamana Hotel Jacksons Port City Hall International Moresby Holiday Inn Air Niugini Haus Airport W Gateway Hotel a ig a n Gordons i D Six Mile Airways r Hotel d Hanuabada R Saraga 0 100 Km en rd Ga Port Moresby Harbour g in Harbour City pr Hohola S Four Mile W Konedobu a Royal Papua rd s Yacht Club Sir Hubert Murray Rd Stadium Ta ur Boroko Taurama Aquatic am a Murray Rd ert Hwy Centre Harbourside ub H Port Moresby Crowne Plaza Badili Korobosea General Hospital Grand Papua Hotel Ela Beach Hotel Koki Town Two Mile Walter Bay Sabama 0 Km 1 Gabutu

September – October 2017 135 arrivals lounge Visitor GUIDE

Papua New Guinea University of Technology LAE Taraka

To Nadzab Airport, 42 kilometres

Crossroads Hotel Omili H d ig R h bu la m n Bu ds H w y Malahang Industrial Centre

I n H Bumneng d o e u p n e R n d d e n c Bugandi e H Golf Course Eriku D ig r r h D l e a Milford Haven Rd n c d n s Huon Club e H Bum d w b n u R e y ive p Botanical r e H d o n Gardens u I n

R d Dowsett War Cemetery Showgrounds Butibum Hotel Morobe

Sandpiper Rd 0 Km 1 PNG Lae d Lae City R n Lae Angau e v Lae City a Hospital China Town H Hotel d M r Lae International o a f l rk i Markets ha Hotel M m

Rd Lae International Melanesian Hotel Rd Hospital Butibam 0 100 Km t lia S no ag M Voco Lae Yacht Club Point Lae Port Huon Gulf

136 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Welcome aboard

Enjoy our Bird of Paradise in-flight service Air Niugini fleet

Please ask us Entertainment If there is anything our cabin crew can assist you with during A selection of movies and music including B767-300ER - Boeing F70 - Fokker your flight, please do not hesitate to ask them. classical, modern, country and local are available on Length: 59.94m Normal altitude: 11000 - 12000m Length: 30.91m Normal altitude: 11000m international services. Wing span: 47.57m Standard seating capacity: 188 Wing span: 28.08m Standard seating capacity: 76 Hand luggage Range: 8100km Business class: 28 Range: 3410km Business class: 6 Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 160 Cruising speed: 743kph Economy class: 70 Please ensure that your carry on luggage is placed in the Pillows and blankets Power plant: 2 x PW4000 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 620-15 Number of aircraft in fleet: 5 turbo-fan engines overhead locker or under the seat in front of you. On International flights, pillows and blankets are available on request from our cabin crew.

Takeoff and landing Ensure that your seat is in the upright position during takeoff Cuisine and landing. Folding tables must be returned to their original Our in-flight* meals have been specially prepared for your position in the seat back or the armrest. enjoyment. If you require a vegetarian meal or you are on a special diet, child or baby food, please inform us when B737-800 - Boeing DASH 8-Q315 - Bombardier Safety first making your reservation. Length: 39.5m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 25.7m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123E Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 144 Wing span: 24.4m Normal altitude: 7500m Your seat belt must be securely fastened during take off and Range: 8100km Business class: 16 Range: 1700km Standard seating capacity: 50 In-flight Duty Free Cruising speed: 857kph Economy class: 128 Cruising speed: 510kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 3 landing or whenever the seat belt sign is on. When the seat Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B26 Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 belt sign is off you may move about the cabin as necessary. During the flight take some time to look through our However while seated, keep your seat belt fastened securely In-flight Duty Free brochure located in your seat pocket. in case of unexpected turbulence. Duty free purchases can be made after Meal Service. All major credit cards are accepted.

Electronic equipment Cellular telephones, TV receivers or radio controlled devices Immigration and Customs Forms are not to be used at any time on board an aircraft. Electronic During your flight, our cabin crew will distribute devices such as portable computers, compact discs or Immigration and Custom forms before each landing B737-700 - Boeing DHC-8-202 - Bombardier cassette players and video games can be used only when point. Ensure that you carefully read and complete these Length: 33.6m Normal altitude: 11300m Length: 22.25m Power plant: 2 x Pratt & Whitney PW123D Wing span: 35.79m Standard seating capacity: 116 Wing span: 25.89m Normal altitude: 7600m the seat belt sign is switched off. documents and have them ready for inspection with Range: 6370km Business class: 12 Range: 1800km Standard seating capacity: 36 Cruising speed: 830kph Economy class: 104 Cruising speed: 550kph Number of aircraft in fleet: 2 your passport at the Immigration and Customs Power plant: 2 x CFM56 - 7B22 Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Children and babies arrival counters.

The cabin crew will also be pleased to assist in preparing your baby’s food and bottle. Baby food and diapers are Before you leave also available. Please do not hesitate to ask our friendly Please check your seat pocket and overhead lockers cabin crew. before you disembark to ensure you have not left any items of value. We look forward to seeing you when you Smoking next fly with us on our Bird of Paradise Service. F100 - Fokker Falcon 900EX - Dassault Length: 35.528m Normal altitude: 11000m Length: 20.21m Power plant: 3 x Honeywell TFE731 Smoking is not permitted on any Air Niugini flight. Wing span: 28.076m Standard seating capacity: 101 Wing span: 19.33m Maximum altitude: 51000ft Range: 3000km Business class: 8 Range: 4500nm Standard seating capacity: 12 Cruising speed: 780kph Economy class: 93 Cruising speed: 650mph Number of aircraft in fleet: 1 Power plant: 2 x Rolls Royce Tay 650 Number of aircraft in fleet: 7 Welcome aboard

Enjoy our Bird of Paradise in-flight service Air Niugini fleet

Movie, TV and music highlights available on Air Niugini flights

Movies

Parched Shivaay Daytime Shooting Star Lord of Shanghai Genre: Drama Genre: Action, Thriller Genre: Romance Genre: Action, Drama Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Rating: PG Rating: PG13 Stars: Tannishtha Chatterjee, Radhika Apte, Stars: Ajay Devgan, Sayesha Saigal, Erika Kaar Stars: Mei Nagano, Shohei Miura, Alan Stars: Yu Nan, Hu Jun, Qin Hao Surveen Chawla Shivaay rescues Olga from an avalanche Shirahama In 1907, 15-year-old Xiao Yuegui is a servant girl A village in Rajasthan still lives in medieval times, and sparks fly. When Olga learns that she is Suzume Yosano is a naive country girl who who is loved by Chang Lixiong, the head of Hong weighed down by the burden of draconian tradi- expecting, she pleads with Shivaay to return to has transferred to a new high school in Tokyo. Men. However, Chang is sold out by a traitor tions like child marriage, dowry and overbearing Bulgaria with her, but her efforts are in vain. She On her first day in the big city, she gets lost and killed. men. In this village live four women, each trying eventually leaves behind their daughter Gaura and a handsome man named Shishio comes to make the best out of a difficult situation. with Shivaay. to her rescue.

Dear Other Self My Cousin Rachel The Martian CHIPS Genre: Comedy Genre: Drama, Mystery Genre: Adventure, Sci-Fi Genre: Action, Crime, Comedy Rating: PG Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Rating: R Stars: Jodi Sta. Maria, Xian Lim, Joseph Marco Stars: Rachel Weisz, Sam Claflin, Iain Glen Stars: Matt Damon, Jessica Chastain, Stars: Michael Peña, Dax Shepard, Jessica On the most important day of Becky’s life, she A young Englishman plots revenge against his Kristen Wiig McNamee decides to take control of her destiny. Will she mysterious and beautiful cousin, believing that When astronauts blast off from the planet Mars, A rookie federal agent and a pro motorbiker are take the promotion and fall in love with Chris? she murdered his guardian. His feelings become they leave behind Mark Watney, presumed teamed together in the California Highway Patrol, Or will she quit her job and travel the world to complicated as he finds himself falling helplessly dead after a storm. With minimal supplies, the but clash more than click. meet Henry? and obsessively in love with her. stranded visitor must utilise his wits and spirit to find a way to survive on the hostile planet.

Unforgettable Table 19 Kong: Skull Island Diary of a Wimpy Kid: Genre: Thriller, Drama Genre: Comedy, Romance Genre: Action, Adventure, Fantasy The Long Haul Rating: R Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 Genre: Family, Comedy Stars: Rosario Dawson, Katherine Heigl, Stars: Anna Kendrick, Lisa Kudrow, Craig Stars: Tom Hiddleston, Samuel L. Jackson, Rating: PG Geoff Stults Brie Larson Robinson Stars: Jason Drucker, Alicia Silverstone, Tessa is barely coping with the end of her Ex-maid of honour Eloise decides to attend her A team of scientists, soldiers and adventurers Tom Everett Scott marriage when her ex-husband David becomes oldest friend’s wedding. She is seated at dreaded unite to explore an uncharted island in the A family road trip to attend Meemaw’s 90th happily engaged to Julia. Tessa’s jealousy soon table 19 with a group of strangers, but as their Pacific. Cut off from everything they know, birthday party goes hilariously off course – - the team ventures into the domain of the mighty takes a pathological turn. secrets are revealed, Eloise learns that friend thanks to Greg’s newest scheme to become ships – and even a little romance – can happen Kong, igniting the ultimate battle between man famous. in unlikely circumstances. and nature. TV

City Time Traveller Jamie’s Super Food Classics The Big Bang Theory The Leftovers Genre: Documentary, Travel Genre: Documentary, Lifestyle Genre: Comedy Genre: Drama, Mystery Episode: S2 E1 - Manila, Philippines Episode: S1 E2 - Doughnuts, Mussels and Episode: S10 E16 - The Allowance Evaporation Episode: S3 E1 - The Book of Kevin Rating: PG Meatballs Rating: PG13 Rating: R Stars: Jason Pomeroy Rating: PG Stars: Johnny Galecki, Jim Parsons, Kaley Cuoco Stars: Justin Theroux, Amy Brenneman, Pomeroy visits six cities across Asia. He begins Stars: Jamie Oliver Sheldon and Amy have their first fight since Christopher Eccleston his journey in Manila, where he relives the Oliver explores some of the healthiest places moving in together, after he shares intimate The Seventh Anniversary of the Sudden colossal reminder of the Spanish colonial days. on the planet, from the volcanic island of Jeju in details of their relationship with people at Departure is just two weeks away, and many South Korea to the alpine beauty of Switzerland. the university. believe another apocalyptic event may happen.

Modern Family Riverdale Trial & Error Smurfs Genre: Comedy Genre: Drama, Crime Genre: Comedy Genre: Family, Animation Episode: S8 E1 - A Tale of Three Cities Episode: S1 E3 - Chapter Three: Body Double Episode: S1 E1 - Pilot Episode: N05221 / N05223 - Fuzzle Trouble / All Rating: PG Rating: PG13 Rating: PG13 That Glitters Isn’t… Stars: Ed O’Neill, Sofía Vergara, Julie Bowen Stars: K.J. Apa, Lili Reinhart, Camila Mendes Stars: John Lithgow, Nicholas D’Agosto Rating: G The Dunphy clan has wrapped up an awesome After new information surrounding Jason’s death When professor Larry Henderson is arrested for Stars: Don Messick, Danny Goldman, Lucille Bliss week in New York, and while the kids are suppos- comes to light, Cheryl finds herself under a cloud the murder of his wife, lawyer Josh Segal comes Clumsy brings home a furry fuzzle, and chaos edly flying home, Claire and Phil are supposedly of suspicion and forced to come clean about the down from New York to the quirky town of East ensues. Gargamel wants to turn metal into gold, going to drive cross-country. last time she saw her brother. Peck, South Carolina, to defend his first big case. but his recipe requires 10 Smurfs. Music

Calvin Harris Zara Larsson Shakira Elvis Presley Daniel Behle The Japanese Funk Wav Bounces So Good El Dorado Elvis Presley / Elvis Schubert Arias & House Vol.1 Genre: Pop Rating: R Genre: Pop Rating: PG Genre: Golden Hits Rating: PG Overtures Saw You in a Dream Genre: Pop Rating: R Zara Larsson, 19, has already It’s been four years since her The King of Rock’s eponymous Genre: Classical Rating: G Genre: Chill Rating: PG As one of EDM’s most unstop- accumulated accolades in last album, and bilingual Latina first two albums feature hit An accomplished tenor across Amber Bain, 21, and her pable forces, the Scottish DJ/ her home country of Sweden superstar Shakira does not tracks including Blue Suede the European continent, Behle moniker The Japanese House producer has made euphoric where she quickly established disappoint. Shoes and Love Me. is a musical act you cannot have quickly become a staple dance-pop a Top 40 staple by herself as a local pop miss. His dedication to the in the dream pop genre. pairing passionate pop hooks superstar. theatricals of Franz Schubert with explosive house beats. showcases his impressive repertoire.

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