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The Recyclery Collective: Complete Overhaul 101 Week 1 Shop Space / Bicycle Types / Tools

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The Recyclery Collective: Complete Overhaul 101 Week 1 Shop Space / Bicycle Types / Tools The Recyclery Collective: Complete Overhaul 101 Week 1 Shop space / Bicycle types / Tools Shop space & The Recyclery Mission Statement: "The Recyclery Collective seeks to build community through the restoration of donated and discarded bicycles. We share resources and knowledge in order to support an affordable, independent, and sustainable mode of transportation. In this spirit of education and mutual aid, we encourage discussion about how our transportation choices affect the health of our communities and our environment." While we do have a small paid staff, we are primarily run by volunteer labor. Volunteers do everything from running bicycle sales, picking up donated bicycles, repairing bicycles for sale, helping run open-shop, cleaning and rearranging the shop, etc. The small staff is Jesse who does bookkeeping and mechanics as needed to keep up with bike sale demand. Youth Classes - Howard Area Community Center and Project NIA Complete Overhaul 101 - Advanced Repair Course. Income goes back into improving the shop and supporting our mission. Participants are encouraged to volunteer and spread the word about the Recyclery to friends and family! FreeCyclery - By connecting with social service organizations in our area, we build relationships and donate bicycles to those in need free bikes provide needed self-sufficiency and practical transportation to individuals with low incomes, mental illness, or homelessness. Chicago House Connections for the Homeless Ethiopian Community Association of Chicago Expanding Lives Franciscan Outreach Association Goldie’s Place Heartland Alliance Howard Area Community Center Inspiration Corporation LIFT Chicago Refugee One Stockton School Thresholds Youth Organization Umbrella Open Shop - We provide a valuable resource and environment in which people can repair their own bicycles, aid others in bicycle repairs, or volunteer their time to repair bicycles for the collective. Many people became regular volunteers by coming in at open shop and getting involved with the organization. The $10/hr suggested donation helps fund the organization's activities and assures the health of the facilities for everyone's use. Used Bicycle Sales - In order to help fund the organization, we sell donated bicycles that we repair. Every Saturday from 10-12 we have bicycles available for sale in the storefront. The average price is $100, they start at around $50, this helps us fulfill our mission to make bicycling an affordable mode of transportation. Rules for using space Types of bicycles Road - designed for speed, lightest and most efficient, drop bars allow aerodynamic position, narrow tires, higher gears, harder on your back Mountain - built for rough terrain, wide tires means greater rolling resistance and thus are less efficient, wider handlebars allows for greater steering control, suspension allows for comfort but is less efficient, easier on your back Hybrid - a hybrid of a road bike and a mountain bike, gearing, tire size and tread, and riding position are generally between road and mountain, easiest on your back depending on geometry of the frame Cruiser - for cruisin' Others BMX, trials, recumbent, what else? Types of bicycle tube materials Steel Aluminium Other crazy metals (titanium, scandium, etc.) Carbon Fiber Material Modulus (stiffness) Yield Point (ability to Specific flex w/o damage) Gravity(weight) Aluminum 10-11 11-59 (4-22 annealed.)168.5 Steel 30 46-162 490 Titanium 15-16.5 40-120 280 Tools and rules for using tools It is important to use the right tool for the task. It will make the task easier, will keep the tools from getting damaged, and will keep you from damaging the bicycle. If you don't know which tool is right, or how to use a tool, ask someone. Using the wrong tool can lead to injury (you, the bike, the tool) so don't hesitate to ask questions. Mechanical advantage, tools create a lever that pivots on the bolt or nut, form the smallest angle possible to get the most mechanical advantage. Lubrication decreases friction and prevents corrosion and should be used where metal touches metal to prevent damage and corrosion. If grease is contaminated by dirt it becomes ineffective and requires replacement. Week 1 (part 2) Bottom Brackets & Cranks Types of bottom brackets (two and three piece cranks): Adjustable or Cup and Cone Sealed Cartridge External Bearing Types of (three piece) Cranks: Square Taper (two standards, JIS, and ISO) Splined type (multiple standards and brands, not interchangeable) The bearings of the bottom bracket see the most wear of any bearing system on a bicycle because they take the most load. They are also the lowest point of a bicycle and any water that enters the frame will collect in the bottom bracket shell and collect there, corroding the threads and bearing surfaces which will shorten the life of the bottom bracket. Bearings and bearing surfaces are made of hardened steel and have curved surfaces known as races for the bearing to rotate on. It is normal that these bearing systems will have a bit of drag due to the friction of the bearings rolling on the surfaces. There are two major bearing systems, adjustable, and sealed cartridge. Adjustable bottom brackets (also known as cup and cone) are serviceable and can be fixed when parts wear out, cartridge systems cannot be serviced and the whole cartridge must be replaced. Servicing a bearing system is know as "overhauling" it. To overhaul a bearing system: remove all the parts clean them of all old grease check the bearings and rolling surfaces for imperfections good bearings will be shiny, bad ones will appear dull (typically 11 bearings per side of 1/4" for square taper, but check using ball bearing sizing ruler) use a ball point pen over the races of the bottom bracket to feel for imperfections; anything that is not smooth should be replaced reinstall parts in correct order being sure to use plenty of grease Removal of an adjustable bottom bracket: Remove lock ring from left side of bike using lockring spanner (Right Hand Thread) use a pin spanner or appropriate tool to remove adjustable cup remove bearings and spindle, noting if right or left side of spindle is longer remove dust sleeve (if present) remove bearings from right side cup (inside shell) remove fixed cup from right side using fixed cup spanner (Left Hand Thread) clean all parts well using a rag and solvent and allow to dry Now you can check all the parts for wear and damage. If the bearings are dull, replace them with new bearings. If the spindle has imperfections (use ball point pen) it must be replaced. Installation of adjustable bottom bracket: Check BB shell threads for corrosion, clean the with brass wire brush if necessary Heavily grease inside of fixed cup and place bearings into grease Grease the threads well and hand tighten the cup into place before using tool, this will help you not cross the threads Install fixed cup on right side, make sure it is firmly in place Inspect bearings from left side of BB shell to make sure they are still in place Install spindle into fixed cup from left side making sure to orient the spindle correctly Install dust sleeve, if any Heavily grease adjustable cup and place bearings into grease Hand thread adjustable cup into place Tighten until you feel the cup and bearings press against the rolling surface of the spindle Install but do not tighten lockring onto adjustable cup Adjusting bottom bracket: Install right side crank arm, this will act as a lever to test the adjustment of the BB Gently tighten adjustable cup clockwise until you feel the cup press the bearings onto the spindle Hold the adjustable cup firmly in place with the spanner and use the lockring spanner to tighten lockring fully Check for knocking in the spindle using the right crank arm, rotate the crank arm to different positions and feel for knocking If there is no play, the adjustment may be too tight. Loosen lockring and adjustable cup slightly (1/32 turn) and re-tighten lockring while holding the adjustable cup in place Check again for knocking using the crank arm Repeat process until there is no knocking, but you are reasonably sure that the BB isn't overtightened Older BBs may be worn such that it is impossible to adjust it perfectly Week 2 Stems, Headsets Stems Types: Quill - stem binder bolt, stem wedge, handlebar binder, quill Threadless handlebar binder bolts, stem binder bolts To remove quill type stem, loosen stem binder bolt (top of stem), attempt to turn handlebars side to side. If stuck, try tapping stem binder bold with hammer to loosen wedge from steering column. Turn back and forth, pulling up and out of steering column until quill is removed; it may be necessary to remove brake cables and/or shifting cables to avoid damaging them. To remove threadless type stem, loosen stem bolts, stem should remove from fork steering tube; it may be necessary to remove brake cables and/or shifting cables to avoid damaging them. Headsets Threaded - Has threaded races that thread onto the steering tube of the fork Threadless - Works in conjunction with a threadless fork steerer tube, the threadless stem, and a star nut to hold the headset in place. Disassembly of threaded headset: Follow above steps to remove stem. Pay attention to orientation of all parts during removal. Using wheel as lever between legs, use thin headset wrench on the lower threaded race to hold this race in place. Use large adjustable wrench on top locknut to loosen locknut and remove it from the fork. Remove wheel, hold fork in place as you unthread and remove the remaining race. The fork is now able to be removed by lowering out of head tube (watch for falling bearings if loose-packed).
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