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Haryana &

Includes  Why Go? Chandigarh. . . . .200 The neighbouring states of Haryana and Punjab were carved Yadavindra Gardens. . 207 from the Indian half of Punjab in the aftermath of Partition. Morni Hills. . . . . 208 Since then, Punjab has gone from strength to strength as the Kurukshetra homeland of ’s welcoming Sikh community, while Hary- (Thanesar). . . . . 208 ana has emerged as a dynamic hub for business and industry. Studded with gleaming (Sikh ) – in- . . . 209 cluding the unmissable Golden in – Punjab Patiala ...... 210 has become a popular stop on the traveller circuit. Haryana Bathinda ...... 211 is more of a touristic mystery, best known for its modernist Faridkot...... 212 capital, Chandigarh. The hinterland around these two hubs Amritsar...... 212 is dotted with historic towns that tell a story of battling empires and playboy maharajas, and some of India’s most Pathankot ...... 221 alluring abandoned forts hide among their dusty bazaars. Punjab and Haryana are united by their love of food. This is the region that gave the world tandoori chicken, tadka dhal (fried yellow lentils) and butter chicken; the prototype Best Forts & for chicken tikka masala. Enjoy the feast. Temples ¨¨ (p213) ¨¨Govindgarh (p211) When to Go Chandigarh ¨¨Patiala Fort (p210) °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm ¨¨Kesgarh Sahib (p209) 40/104 32/800 ¨¨ Mata Temple (p215) 24/600 20/68

16/400

0/32 Best Off the 8/200 Beaten Track -20/-4 0 ¨¨Bathinda (p211) J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨Patiala (p210) Mar Three days of Apr Punjab’s Oct means ¨¨Faridkot (p212) Sikh celebrations largest festival, lights, candles ¨¨Kapurthala (p211) for Holla Mohalla Baisakhi, marks and fireworks; at Anandpur the Sikh New Year it’s particularly ¨¨Morni Hills (p208) Sahib. and the founding magical at the of the . Golden Temple.

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Haryana & PunjabR & Punjab Highlights una

) DELHI Surajkund Yam ) at Morni Shimla 21 U T T A R Kalka P R A D E S H Pipli Pinjore P R A D E S H P R A D E S 1 H I M A C H A L H I M A C H

d Gurgaon Chandigarh Gran Jogindarnagar d Khalsa Ambala Trunk R Karnal Panipat Mandi Rohtak Gharaunda Ropar (Rupnagar) Anandpur Sahib Jhajjar Nek Chand Visiting Visiting the Khalsa Heritage Complex Rock Garden Jind Sanctuary Dharamsala H A R Y A N A Anandpur Sahib, an enormous, an enormous, Anandpur Sahib, museum lotus-flower-shaped and one of Sikh history, of modern striking most India’s structures (p209 Complex Heritage Nek unique Nek Chandigarh’s (p200 Garden Chand Rock 6 Sirhind Ranital Sultanpur Bird Bhiwani Patiala Nawansharh Jaijon ) a Kangr Hansi Beas Dam ) before ) before Ludhiana Chhapar border- Kila

Raipur r Jalandhar 1A Hoshiarpur 10 100 km

Hisar Rive 1 Mansa umbling into an umbling into d Kapurthala 50 miles R T Watching the theatrical the theatrical Watching

1 Sutlej

Sultanpur Lodhi Batala ) (25km River (p210 Patiala of town impossibly sizing up its fort charming 18th-century alternative reality in reality alternative 4 5 battle for supremacy between between supremacy for battle border Indian and Pakistani guards at Wagah’s (p220 ceremony closing e

Pathankot Trunk d Beas n

ra P U N J A B Templ Golden

G Taren Taran Bathinda 15 Sirsa ) Firozpur Amritsar Attari N g Muktsar Malaut Faridkot R A J A S T H A N Border Closin 0 0 Wagah Hanumangarh 15 Ceremony ), ’s holiest site holiest Sikhism’s ), Kasur Gujranwala Feeling the energy of of the energy Feeling Climbing the towering Climbing the towering Getting off the beaten the beaten off Getting walls of the little-known but the little-known of walls fort 12th-century magnificent (p211 in Bathinda track by diving into the old diving into by track 3 2 Haryana & Punjab Highlights 1 absolute belief at Amritsar’s Amritsar’s at belief absolute Golden Temple spectacular (p213 P A K I S T A T A K I S P A Abuhar