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Beauty Standards a Critical Discourse Analysis of Makeup Advertisements by Maybelline and Covergirl

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Beauty Standards a Critical Discourse Analysis of Makeup Advertisements by Maybelline and Covergirl Beauty Standards A Critical Discourse Analysis of Makeup Advertisements by Maybelline and CoverGirl Cathrine Flymén English Studies - Linguistics BA Thesis 15 credits Spring 2020 Supervisor: Soraya Tharani Table of content Abstract ..................................................................................................................................................... 3 1. Introduction .......................................................................................................................................... 4 1.1 Aim .................................................................................................................................................. 4 2. Background .......................................................................................................................................... 5 2.1. Situational background ................................................................................................................... 5 2.1.1 Social Media ............................................................................................................................. 5 2.1.2 The organisations and the brands .............................................................................................. 5 2.2. Theoretical background ................................................................................................................... 6 2.2.1 Gender Discourse ...................................................................................................................... 6 2.2.2 Advertising Discourse ............................................................................................................... 8 2.2.3 Critical Discourse Analysis..................................................................................................... 11 2.3. Previous Works ............................................................................................................................. 13 3. Design of Study ................................................................................................................................... 14 4. Results and discussion ....................................................................................................................... 15 4.1 Goals of beauty .............................................................................................................................. 18 5. Concluding Remarks ......................................................................................................................... 24 Reference ................................................................................................................................................ 26 Appendix ................................................................................................................................................. 29 CoverGirl ............................................................................................................................................. 29 Maybelline ........................................................................................................................................... 44 2 Abstract It could be argued that makeup are products that are almost exclusively targeting women, and the advertising of makeup could create an image of how women should look. This study investigates how two cosmetic brands, Maybelline and CoverGirl, are advertising makeup in social media and what this conveys about gender and beauty. The study is approached from Fairclough’s (1995) three-dimensional model while considering strategies of advertising and gender discourse. Through a textual analysis, it was found that although the brands want to transmit an emotion of confidence to women, the advertisements still display and communicate gender in stereotypical ways. Keywords: critical discourse analysis, advertisements, gender, femininity, beauty standards 3 1. Introduction It could be argued that discourse analysis has mainly focused on language in forms of spoken and written text. But, according to Cook (2001) discourse analysis must consider visual and audio text when these two elements are combined with written or spoken text. The relation between text, visual and audio text is present in advertising since advertisement can take various forms. Cook (2001) claims that advertising is known for its pervasive language to get consumers to buy products. Many advertisements target a certain audience, e.g. male or female consumers. One genre of advertisement which is strongly associated with one specific gender, is the cosmetic advertisement which almost exclusively focuses on women (Goddard and Meân Patterson, 2000). These adverts of cosmetics can reveal quite a lot about gender discourse, but it can also reveal what is considered to be beautiful (Goffman, 1979). Makeup can be considered essential in making a woman feel confident, beautiful, and happy, while not wearing makeup will create a sense of self-consciousness, or make them feel uncomfortable or embarrassed over their physical appearance according to McCabe et al (2017). Most makeup brands exist in umbrella organisations which implies that many of the brands have the same organisational commitments. Two of the largest cosmetic manufacturers are Coty, Inc., and L’Oréal (Willet and Gould, 2017). The brands which will be included in this research are Maybelline from the umbrella organisation L’Oréal together with the brand CoverGirl from Coty, Inc. Only advertisements which were either portraying the product or images of women were included in the analysis. Further, the study did a qualitative analysis of how the word goal was used to encode a standard of beauty. 1.1 Aim The aim of this study is to investigate how beauty ideals are represented in makeup advertisements from Maybelline and CoverGirl which belongs to L’Oréal respectively Coty, Inc, two of the largest organisations in the industry. Further, this study will specifically look at how gender discourse is used to target a female audience. The research is conducted with the following research questions in mind: 1. What linguistic tools are used in advertising strategies of makeup and how are they used? 2. What differences and similarities are there in the gender advertising discourse between the brands Maybelline and CoverGirl? 3. How do the advertising strategies reflect the beauty standards in society? 4 2. Background The first section of the background will provide an overview of how advertisements are present on social media, and a brief introduction to the two organisations and the two brands. This will be followed by the theoretical framework of the paper, and lastly, previous work will be presented. 2.1 Situational Background 2.1.1 Social Media Advertisement is no longer only in print, television, and radio, but has started to appear in social media as well. Simpson and Mayr explain that advertising “promotes goods and services through various media” (2019:34) and one of these media is advertisement on social platforms. The reasons why advertising through social media has become so popular is because advertisers can reach a larger audience at any time through more channels than ever before. As the internet developed and expanded in the 90s, a new forum, where companies can communicate with consumers through advertisements, was created (Gordon and Turner, 1997). Subsequently the rise of internet-based advertising has grown by the year. Harker (2008) explains that any form of commercial content through any form of channel, which intends to inform consumers about a product or service is advertising, which includes online sources, e.g. YouTube, Facebook, or Myspace. Statistics show that the vast majority of Instagram users are between the ages 20-29, as the age group represents a third of all users on the platform (NCES, n.d). Social media creates channels of communication which is accessible to masses of people, and this is the appeal for businesses to create brand awareness and customer loyalty, both for profit or non-profit organisations (Noor Al-Deen, and Hendricks, 2013). According to Forbes, 5% of all advertising was online in 2005 and ten years later, in 2015, this figure has risen to 31% (Fuchs, 2018). In 2019, 77% of the population in the United States holds a social media account according to Statista, which is approximately 247 million people (NCES, n.d.). This has been picked up by cosmetic brands which now have their own accounts on various platforms, e.g. Facebook or Instagram. 2.1.2 The organisations and brands Founded in 1904, Coty, Inc presents themselves as the organisation that “want to positively disrupt the beauty industry” (Our Story, n.d: para, 1). Their main belief is that beauty is at its 5 best when it is authentic and displays the diversity of beauty. Coty also express that the point of cosmetics is to “make you feel happy, never sad. Beauty should be fun, joyful and give you confidence” (Our Purposes, n.d: para. 3). CoverGirl was founded in 1961 and promotes themselves as a category leader of cruelty free and vegan beauty through their Leaping Bunny certificate. Like Coty, CoverGirl notions that the brand “celebrates authenticity, diversity and self-expression” (About us, n.d: para 1). The Loréal Group was founded in 1909 (History, n.d.) and they express that the aim of the organisation is to reach a larger audience as their vision is ‘universalising beauty’. However, not by setting one standard of beauty but to inspire
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