Sc:~r1ic:

VOL. XXXIII NO. 3 MARCH 1957 RAYMOND CARLSON, Editor U. S. Highway 89, Arizona's main artery of north­ GFORGE M. AV EY, Art Editor south trayel, is one of the most scenic of all 0~1r roads. Its JAJ\LCS E. STEVENS, Business Manager some 600 miles through the state offer a Yarietv of eleva­

LEGEND tion, terrain and scenic interest. Each mile unfoldi1we:, be- "89" ENT ERl'-'G HousEROCK VALLEY FRONT COVER fore the traveler is an interesting mile and different from ~ . R .,, y MANLEY'S PHOTOGRAPH SHOWS the one preceding. "89" brings :--·ou into the state at GLORIOUS NORTHERN ARIZONA VISTA. Fredonia. It leaves the state at Nogales. As eYen the most ARIZONA S CRAPBOOK . 2 S:-.:11PSHOTS OF SCEN IC INTEREST casual glance at a map ·will reveal, "89'' cuts right through ALO ~G "89," BORDER TO BORD ER . the heart of Arizona and covers a lot of interesting· coun­ PIPE SPRI NG NATIONAL MoNUJVIENT 4 try between Utah and J\1e.\'ico. The Strip, the cool J(aibab, \VF. PAY A VISIT TO HISTORIC the s,1 ·eeping panorama of Houserock Valley, Vermilion SHR INE GLORIFYING OUR PIONEERS. and Echo Cliffs, the lofty forested reg·ion ~f San Fran­ IO \VE TAKE A TRIP ON A HIGHWAY cisco Peaks, the high pla~eau countr:v ~bet\\·een vVillia1m OF INTE RNAT IONAL GRANDEUR. and Prescott, or by Alternate "89" Oak Creek and the OLD BrLL WrLLTAJVrs' FAVORITE MouNTAIN 34 Verde Va llev, the desert and then the historic Santa Cruz D ESC RIPTIO N OF A MOUNTAIN THAT Vallev- all of these and more, too, make up the travel JS LA NDM ARK IN NORTHERN ARIZONA. treasury we call "89." ERNEST W. McFARLAND Governor of Arizona ARIZONA HIGHWAY COMMISSION The Highway is our main subject this issue and our Frank E. Moore, Chairman . Douglas genial host is Charles Franklin Parker of Prescott. He Grover J. Duff, Vice Chairman ...... Tucson brieAy discusses this international highway from Alaska \Vrn. P. Copple, iVIember . . . Yuma James R. Heron, Member . . . . . Globe to Guatemala and then conducts us on a leisurely but Frank L. Christensen, Member . . Flagstaff detailed journey 01-er the road within our state·. Mr. \ Vm. E . \Villey, State H wy. Engineer Phoenix Parker is a competent and thor0twh uuide and doesn't let Justin Herman, Secretary . . . . Phoenix b t, Ronald M. Bond, Special Counsel . Phoenix 1.1s miss a single thing of interest as we tranl with him border to border on "89." AmzoNA HIGHW AYS is published monthly by the Arizona Highway D epartment a few miles north of the confluence of the Gila and Sa lt in Arizona. Address: ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, Phoenix, Arizona. In our journey along this fascinating highway this $:; .50 per year in U .S. and possessions; $4.50 elsewhere; 35 cents month, \\·e spend a few enjoyable hours at two places by each. Entered as second-class matter Nov. 5, 1941 at Post Office in t he side of the road. \Ve visit Pipe Spring National 1\i[onn­ Phoenix, under Act of March 3, 1879. Copyrighted, 1957, by ~rizona Highway Department. ment, near Fredonia, and also take a trip to the top of Bill vVilliarns Mountain, historic landmark near \Villiams, Allow five weeks for change of addresses. Be sure to send m These are just two of the many places ,1 hich "89" invites the old as well as the new address. us to see and enjoy. F RONT COVER "89" ENTERING HOUSEROCK VALLEY"-BY RAY MAN­ LEY. This view of U.S. Highway S-9 was taken as it descends the We wish you pleasant reading and pleasant traveling" plateau east of Jacob Lake and the north entrance to Grand Can­ R.C yon, leaving the Vermilion cliff area north and west of the Colo­ rado River. 5x7 Anscochrome film, 1/25th sec. f22, 12-inch Com­ mercial Ektar lens, SX7 Deardorff Camera. The highway enters COLOR CLASSICS FROM ARIZONA HIGHWAYS Arizona near Fredonia, crosses part of the Arizona Strip and then climbs into the rich forest of the Kaibab. Going south through the This Issue forest one comes upon this scene showing "89" plunging into spa­ cious Houserock Valley. Further south arc the San Francisco Peaks 35 mm. slides in 2" mounts, 1 to 15 slides, 40¢ each; 16 to 49 slides, 35 Sunset Crater, p. 19; R-<;, rnpher had followed the East Rim Trail to the lofty overlook and Navajo Bridge over the Colorado, p. 19; SX-15 The Green Fields found a group of yellow Opuntias like a bouquet pinned to the of San Xavier, center spread; DS-47 Land of the Giant Cactus, p. throat of the chasm. Zion National Park is in Southern Utah and 22; R-w "89" through Granite Dells, p. 22; SC-6 Spring Freshet­ is one of many National Park aceas reached by U.S. 89. Sabino Canyon, p. 23; OC-26 Eternal \Vaters of Oak Creek, p. 24.

PAGE ONE • ARIZONA HIGIHV AYS • MARCH H)57

A PIONEER HERITAGE BY WILLIS PETERSON PHOTOGRAPHS BY T HE AU T HOR

The pioneer fort at Pipe Spring National Monument it the Yellow Rock Water, latter day Paiutes frequented on the Arizona-Utah border stands today a s it did in the t he Spring during their travels w hile trading with N avajo West's early, turbulent years, virtually unchanged by and Moqui (now called H opi) Indians living across the time. Colorado River. Though its historical anecdotes read like script of a Aside from i ts ideal location, this freshet of pure western thriller, it is perhaps, least frequented of all South­ water was the only spring of any size in the w hole Strip. west parks. Shunted from main highways, Pipe Spring It was as important a spot to the Indians as it was later basks serenely, s nuggling tightly against protective b ut­ to become to the pioneers. tresses of the Vermilion Cliffs. In 1776 a Spanish priest from Santa F e, Father Esca­ From Navajo Bridge northward, these majestic Cliffs lante, forded at the Ute Crossing and trekked through are constant companions of travelers on U.S. 89 leading the S trip. He is without doubt the first w hite man to toward Pipe Spring. Through H ouse Rock V alley, and enter t his region. T hough there is no direct mention of into the Arizona Strip, where the Monument lies, the Yellow Rock W ater in Escalante's journal, he does de­ road is continually twisted by each w him of their gigantic scribe making a d ry camp at Mt. T rumbull, 60 miles facades. southwest of Pipe S pring. It is hardly conceivable that . Swinging over the Kaibab U pwarp, the motorist he d id not stop at the Spring during the following days, views awesome escarpments as they reach to the north, especially since Indian guides escorted h im. then sweep w est and south in a huge horseshoe. Ever­ T he year 18 58 is the next important year in Pipe changing hues, forming a stage backdrop, with no two Spring history. T his marked white man's second pro­ moments alike lure the traveler o n. Again, in t he maj esty longed penetration i nto the Arizona Strip wilderness, and of their shadows, the visitor fi nally emerges in the Ari­ the christening of the Spring on October 30th of that year. zona Strip territory. At the direction of President Brigham Young in Salt As the Strip country unfolds, one cruises along try­ Lake City, eleven .men were chosen to scout and make ing to visualize how those hardy pioneer men and women friendly overtures to the Paiute and N avajo Indians as settled this wild terrain. T he chasm of the indomitable w ell as t he H opis. Aside from fostering good will, t he Colorado bars entrance to the south and east. Broken group w as also charged to ascertain if t his region would mountains loom up to the west. The Vermilion Cliffs be suitable for colonization. form an almost impregnable chain of precipices extending Jacob H amblin, know n as the missionary to the north and south. Lamanites (Indians) because of his fair dealings and their These barriers have permitted little change since the trust in him, was appointed leader. T he others included Strip was a frontier. No large irrigation projects have Jacob's brothers, Frederick and W illiam; Samuel Knight, inundated the earth's contours. T he usual maze of high­ Benjamin Knell, Ira H atch, Andrew G ibbons, Dudley ways are lacking, much to the relief of many travelers. Leavitt, Thomas Leavitt, Ammon Tenny (interpreter), City skylines h aven't crept up to d isturb peaceful hori­ James Durias Davis, a nd Naraguts, their Paiute guide. zons, while the Cliffs, lofty and jagged, splashed with Pursuing their peaceful mission, the H amblin party magentas and amethysts, still look as foreboding to motor­ rode southeast from Salt Lake City, over the dry, amber­ ists as they did to the pioneers. colored grassland. T o their left, lower shelves and talus This, then, is the isolated and rugged country com­ breaks of the Vermilion Cliffs rose into sheer escarpments. prising the Strip, still picturesque, still primitive- the pris­ Never ending abutments seemed to frown o minously matic setting of Pipe Spring. upon the hardy band. Cautiously they picked their way The Monument's highway junction bids v1s1tors between great blocks of red sandstone tumbled along the welcome at the little Mormon community of Fredonia, base o f the Cliffs. Arizona. A well-marked gravel road leads west to the Suddenly, one of the riders rose in his saddle. Stand­ historic site. Skirting the Vermilion Cliffs, it follows sub- ing i n h is stirrups, he pointed to a densely foliaged spot . stantially the same route as the covered wagon trail from . in the distance. It a ppeared as though an emerald h ad St. George, Utah, via Pipe Spring to Northern Arizona been set in a field of roughly hewn rubies. points. "W ater," he shouted, and twisted in his saddle toward Because of its geographical position, lying on a direct the other men. As he gestured, weather lines in W illiam route between the Colorado's Ute and Paria (Lee's Ferry) Hamblin's bronzed face crinkled into a grin. His brother, Fords a nd the Virgin Valley, Pipe Spring also became Jacob, and the rest of the men, squinted at the scorched well known to prehistoric peoples in their east and west horizon. Heat waves d anced back, mocking their effort migrations. to p lace the faraway dot of verdure. Attesting to t his fact, many early pit houses and later The speck of green turned out to be a virtual oasis, dated pueblo-like ruins have been found nearby. Calling complete with a gushing spring. P ouring from a hillside

PAGE FIVE . ARI Z ONA HIGJHV A Y S :tvf AR C H 1.95 7 revealed empty pastures and silent corrals. Suspecting they would n ot answ er questions, these Indians were shot Indians, they c autioned young McIntyre to stay in the on the spot. Such was the law of t he harsh, untamed land. dug·out, and set out in search of the vanished cattle and Such swift frontier retaliation was common, but un­ sh~ep. fortunately, not always just. Later, it was believed N ava­ At dusk the lone youngster prudently barricaded the jos had committed the crime. Fearing reprisal, they h ad door. During the n ight the wooden latch rattled alarm­ shrewdly traded the white men's apparel to these inno­ ingly; then footfalls receded. T he boy sprang to the back cent Paiutes. of the sheet iron stove and fearfully hid there till dawn. T he militiamen found McIntyre and W hitmore four \Vhen his father and uncle did not return by morn­ miles southeast of the Spring, killed by arrows. T hirteen ing, James knew the worst had happened and left on fo ot days later their bodies were hauled back to St. George t hrough the snow for St. George, U tah, 96 miles to the in a buckboard p acked with snow. A contemporary ob­ northwest. Fortunately, ten miles out from t he shelter server claims that "both men looked like porcupines, so he encountered a group of Mormon elders bound for many arrows were stuck into them." Kanab. More raids followed in the Pipe Spring vicinity dur­ A II turned b ack toward St. G eorge to spread the ing these Indian hostilities. In April of the same year, John alarm. On the way, the horsemen stopped at M aj . Max­ and Robert Berry and the latter's wife were killed a few well's ranch in Short Creek, Utah, to get additional hel p. miles northwest of the Spring. Learning of these events, Maj. Maxwell immediately W ith Indian tension still paramount in the settlers' penned this letter to Col. McArthur, St. George, Utah, minds three years later, Erastus Snow, acting for Presi­ requesting armed v olunteers to form a punitive expedi­ dent Brigham Young, instructed Anson P. Winsor to buy tion against the Paiutes and Navajos. the Pipe Spring p roperty for construction of a fort. "Jan. II, 1866 McIntyre's widow received $ rooo for the 140 acres. Crude Col. D. D . McArthur surveys w ere made by using a lariat. St. George, Utah. Joseph W . Young of St. George was named architect, The Indians have made a break on the Whitmore and i\klntyre ranch and have driven off all his sheep. R obert and supervised construction, , vhich b egan in the fall of McIntyre and James Whitmore went out Monday morn­ 1870. T amar Young, wife of Richard Young, also helped ing· and have not been seen since, and we think they are to p lan the building. killed. We want help to drive the Indians across the Colo­ A II materials were gathered locally . S labs of red rado and help to find Robert McIntyre and James W hite­ sandstone w ere quarried from the adjacent bluffs, while more. The men will need fifteen to twenty days rations. lime was burned in a pit n earby for mortar. Wooden Summer days and pleasant weather attract visitors to Monument. There ought to be about fifty men. W illiam Maxwell beams came from Mt. T rumbull and were hauled by oxen. Maj . U tah Militia vVhen completed, the F ort consisted of two, two­ Short Creek, Utah." storied stone structures, facing each other across an en­ between fractured sedimentary strata, its waters produced It must be said here that this was no ordinary pipe. When the riders dismounted at the town meeting closed courtyard. H eavy double gates, reinforced with several acres of lush vegetation. Such a find was rare, in­ The typical meerschaum pipe was about 1 8 inches long hall in St. G eorge with this terse message, faces fell and the old iron wagon tires, swung outward from each end of deed, in this arid land, and consequently, the tired horse­ with an ornately carved bow l of hardened and enameled colorful, gay cotillion which was in full swing changed the c ourt. men made camp at the restful site. clay-like substance of silicate of magnesium. Since Leavitt quickly into a grim body of determined men and women. Vividly recalling prior Indian attacks, builders gen­ \Vith horses hobbled, the party stretched out, each did not smoke, he had acquired this pipe merely as a Returning possemen discovered a band of Paiutes erously endowed the walls with gun ports. Each was built member pillowing his head on a saddle. Conversation souvenir during his days as a member of the l\formon w earino- clothing w hich had belonged to the two missing into the ramparts so that all outside points c ould be cov­ turned to guns, and marksmanship, as might be expected Battalion. men. Assuming they had murdered the ranchers, since ered. A platform or firing rail skirted one end o f t he when one's very life depended upon firearms. Resolutely setting the pipe on a flat layer of sand­ Finally, Dudley Leavitt, winking at the others, stone above the Spring, and taking ai m in an apparently jumped up and declared to William Hamblin, that if he careless fas hion, Gun Lock deftly drilled the bottom out ·were as good a marksman as he claimed, Leavitt would of the pipe's bowl with one expertly fired shot. Pioneer-planted vines still bear fruit. Mill stones were used to grind pioneer grain. wager a gold piece that William could not hit a silk Such was the unique christening of Pipe Spring, a bandanna at fifty paces. name which the clear, cold ,vaters have carried through­ Hamblin wryly accepted the challenge. Few men out these many ensuing years. Despite blazing skies a nd were more accurate shots. In fact, he had earned the occasional droughts, the sparkling Spring has not slack­ nickname "Gun Lock Bill" from his knowledge of gun ened its steady flow of more than roo,ooo gall ons per day. mechanisms and his superb marksmanship. It was a moni­ It is a phenomenon for w hich early settlers in the semi­ ker of considerable influence and weight in the frontier desert Strip country were extremely thankful. country. Five years after the Spring's melodramatic naming, Standing at the prescribed distance, he fired at the in 1863, Dr. James Whitmore and brother-in-law, Robert flopping piece of cloth. To his chagrin and to the banter­ McIntyre, formed a livestock company, using the Spring ing laughter of his companions, the sharpshooter appar­ as headquarters. This became the first permanent settle­ ently missed the handkerchief. ment at Pipe Spring. Actually, the bullet's force had flicked aside the sli ck Their home was a rude hillside dugout t imbered w ith square of silk without leaving the tell-tale hole. It was a juniper logs. Built adjacent to the Spring, their holdings sly trick, one which was pulled occasionally to enliven were surrounded by several hundred feet of primitive a lonely evening on the trail. stake and rider fencing, c~:nnmonly called "rip gut" by Blowing smoke out of his gun barrel, a nd turning early cowboys. All went w ell until 1 866 w hen fate tipped his back on the offending kerchief, G un Lock dryly in­ her hand and tragedy struck with the o utbreak of the formed the grinning c ircle of faces he would shoot the Black Haw k Indian War. bottom out of "jokester" Leavitt's meerschaum pipe at On the night of January 8, the cattlemen and the same distance. It was a considerably smaller and more McIntyre's eleven-year-old son, James Jr., were awakened diffi cult target, a most difficult shot at half the distance. by strange noises and their stock's restlessness. Morning

PA G E S I X • A RI Z ONA HTGI-I\V A YS • !\,[ A R CH I 9 5 7 Telegraph key of old fort Old hand forge used at Fort Stove of . piorieer days H eat on of Pipe Spring H eavy stone firing rampart ' enclosure. Upper stories of the two buildings were devot­ To say that the Canaan Co-op Stock Company pros­ ing a trip from Cedar City, Utah, to the North Rim of w ater flows just as regularly through the cooling trough ed to sewing and weaving rooms, as well as general living pered is an understatement. The Strip consisted of more the Grand Canyon, Arizona. _ as it did during the settlers' occupation. quarters. than 5, ooo square miles of unfenced, superb grassland. When near W insor's Castle, their car became stuck One of the most prized possessions w hich Heaton To insure an ever-present supply of fresh water, the Add a spring producing more than 100,000 gallons of in sand. Unable to free their vehicle before dark, they keeps carefully tucked away in a display case is the whole structure was built around the Spring. In turn, the water per day, and it is no wonder that on June 30, 187 5 spent the night at the Heaton ranch, just a few miles from ancient brass telegraph key. A relentless line of old running water was diverted from the courtyard into a the Canaan Co-op Stock Company could declare a 2 5 % the Fort. The next morning they stopped to browse at juniper poles still stretch from the Fort, clutching onto stone and mortar trough, w hich led through the south­ dividend. the Castle. It was in such a remarkable state of preserva­ weather-beaten glass insulators and their connecting west corner room. An exceedingly well conceived plan, The following year the Co-op Stock Company was tion, and the men found their stay so enjoyable studying corroded wire. since an Indian attack could last for several days. sold into private hands. Other interests bought and sold its old records, they endeavored to have the Fort made Parts of a hand lathe remain in the courtyard mount­ Because it w as such a formidable looking edifice, no the Pipe Spring land several times, with Leonard H eaton into a national shrine before time and passers-by would ed between porch beams. All railing and doweling used actual raids ever occurred at Pipe Spring after completion and Sons, being the last owners. Obtaining the property destroy the pioneer edifice. in the Fort's c onstruction was turned on this manually of the Fort. However, the heavy reinforced gates swung in 1908, they held it until 19 2 3. At Mather's and Gray's suggestion, the United States operated tool. Across the enclosure from the lathe, the open many times to let apprehensive settlers within its In 187 1, Winsor Castle at Pipe Spring became the government bought the Pipe Spring property for $5,000 firing rail still hangs firmly against the wall. Shafts of protective walls after reported Indian insurrections. first telegraph station in Arizona, and its first operator from Heaton and Sons; how ever, the money was con- light stream through gun ports, reminding one of grim­ As hostilities lessened, the Fort became known as was a y oung lady by the name of Luella Steward. Her _,,rributed in the form of donations by persons and com­ mer days. Winsor's Castle. For a while it served as headquarters for father was noted for colonizing Kanab, U tah. One of her panies interested in preserving Winsor Castle as an his­ Leaving the Fort, the pathway leads between two the church's tithing ranch. Five to fifteen men were garri­ sons is currently a s upreme court justice of Arizona, torical site. Consequently, the transaction did not cost the spring-fed ponds where amiable white ducks, quacking soned there continually from 1 870-1 876, to be on hand Levi Udall. government a cent, but only involved getting a clear title garrulously, clumsily escort visitors. Silver cottonwoods in case of Indian activity, and to serve as workers in T he s ingle strand of humming wire connected all to the land. line the footpath to the roadway . Incessantly rustling maintaining the livestock and d airy herd. communities of Utah with this early outpost. Known as A proclamation by President Harding declared Pipe their metallic-looking leaves, they form a shimmering Later, Winsor's wife began the manufacture of cheese the Deseret Telegraph Company, it was an important Spring a N ational Monument on May 31, 192 3. Leonard canopy high above. in the spring room because of the cool atmosphere main­ measure in bringing the scattered settlers together. It was Heaton, at w hose parent's ranch the Mather party had Besides its rich pioneer background, Pipe Spring also tained by the constant 68 degree temperature of the flow­ also a step in closing the frontier. stayed, was named custodian, a position w hich h e has held offers visitors immaculately clean camping areas, a pond ing water. With the installation of a Ralph's Oneida From 187 1 to 1872, the famed explorer of the Colo­ since that time. of sparkling spring water fo~ swimming, and for the na­ cheese vat, Pipe Spring became the center of a thriving rado River, Maj. John Wesley Powell, maintained head­ Through his untiring efforts, many pioneer artifacts ture lover, wildlife and numerous birds for observation. cheese industry. quarters at Winsor Castle. During his stay, Powell's party w hich were employed at the Fort by various families have Fruits and berries, planted by early settlers, and still During this period Pipe Spring played an important, mapped this portion of the River and adjacent region. been brought b ack. A shingle maker, and a bellows blow­ bearing, are there to tantalize the most delicate palate. In though indirect role in the building of the Mormon Tem­ Years later, CCC boys working near Pipe Spring un­ er of an old forge are a couple of the more unique items. fact, our family canned 11 quarts of blackberries and sev­ ple at St. George. earthed a geographical marker with Powell's signature on Many of the metal and iron fixtures used in building of eral pints of jam during a week's stay. Few parks offer Barrels of butter and tons of cheese were produced the survey description. T his document is on display at the Castle w ere forged from this contrivance, such inducements. at Winsor's Castle and sent to the southern Utah town the Fort. Other relics still reposing within its protective bul­ A backward glance through the cottonwoods at the to help maintain the many workers. These artisans donat­ Circumstances leading to Pipe Spring being desig­ warks, include a baby crib, wool carding machine, har­ pioneer edifice, with its red sandstone walls reflected ed months and even years of their time and skill for erec­ nated a National Monument were just as colorful as its pischord, spinning w heels, and other hand-made furniture. serenely in the placid waters, is a picturesque reminder tion of the magnificent G reat White Temple. past. Dozens of old documents and pictures are kept in show­ of a people w ith vision and courage. Besides dairy products, hundreds of beefs were con­ According to Leonard Heaton, Monument Superin­ cases. Feeling and absorbing its spirit, visitors find Pipe tributed to this project from the tithing herd known as tendent, in the early '20's a touring party- including Original churns, utilized i n the pioneers' creamery Spring stands as ·a colorful and reverent monument to the Canaan Co-op Stock Company kept at Pipe Spring Stephen Mather, first National Park Director, and Carl operations and sections of the cheese vat lie idle with stubborn persistence and many sacrifices which our pio:. from 187 1 to 1876. Gray, President of the U nion Pacific Railroad, were mak- other hand-fashioned utensils in the spring room. Spring neers took in their stride to settle a frontier.

P AGE E IGHT • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH 195 7 IHI HIGHWAY 01 /lllRIAOONAI GRAIDEUR

BY CHARLES FRANKLIN PARKER AND JEANNE S. HUMBURG

A giant artery of travel traverses the North American Alaskan landscape, then turns southeastward for 2,000 and South Rims of the Grand Canyon and a total of r 3 offers its share to the long panorama for the vacation and continent from Fairbanks, Alaska, to the Mexican-Guate­ miles through Canada via Whitehorse in the Yukon and National Monuments created by the works of nature or traveling pleasure of the world. In this gigantic picture malan border. This 6,500 mile highway is the great verti­ into British Columbia to Edmonton ,vith its nearby E lk the hands of man for posterity _- For 6 r 2 miles the scenic Arizona is proud to have an important part. ca l international route of the western hemisphere includ­ Island National Park. Veering on southward toward the route traverses high plateau, pine-forested and desert So positive of the international value of this route are ing the Alaskan highway, Canadian hi ghway 2, U.S. 89 United States border, Canadian highway 2 follows beside country, through the state's largest cities, Phoenix and a large group of Arizonans that they formed an 89'er and Mexico's 15 and 190 (the Pan-American Highway) . the great Canadian Rockies and from Calgary, home of the Tucson, and joins with Mexican Highway r 5 at Nogales. International Highway Association several years ago. It embraces the romance, engineering feats and lore of the famous Stampede each summer, it is a matter of a few In Mexico the highway follows for more than r ,5 00 Through a program of "boosting the scenic route of the Al-Can and part of the Pan-Am Highways which build miles, when one considers the beauty offered, to the great miles along the w estern coastline, noted for its fishing and ~mericas," ~he 89'ers have as their second, though equally a solid friendship of good w ill and brotherhood between National Parks of Banff, Jasper, Yoho and Kootenay. resort locations and ancient civili zation, before swinging important aim, the "cementing of intercity, interstate and the three nations of North America. The Canadian highway continues southward through toward the interior and Mexico City. Southward of the internat!onal pub~ic relati?ns." The wholehearted support T hat portion of the international highway, U .S. 89 Macleod, site of the first Northwest Mounted Police post, country's capital it is 876 miles along the Pan American of Mexican officials, busmessmen and organizations has from Piegan, Montana, to Nogales, Arizona, crosses and at the Canadian-United States border the route paral­ Highway to the Guatemalan border. The great Pan-Am been evidenced in joint meetings held so far, attended our western country through some of its most naturally lels the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, which stretches onward to the capitals of Central and South also by representatives from cities, states and provinces spectacular and historica ll y romantic areas-from Rocky combines across a friendship curtain the allure of Water­ America with extensive construction planned for com­ touched by the highway. In time the 89'er Association IVlountain fastness to dese rt vastness. For this approxi­ ton Lakes National Park in Canada and our own mighty p letion this year to close some of the last major gaps in will encompass the entire length of countryside throuo-h mately r,775 miles (612 of w hich are in Arizona) U.S. 89 Glacier National Park. · the nearly 18,000 mile highway system. When these gaps -w hich the route passes, and afford numerous services ~o is a fine high,vay built either through or w ithin short mile Beginning at the border, U .S. 89 skirts the park, are finished the dream of driving from Alaska to Buenos those who travel these miles. distance of six National Parks and r6 National Monu­ crosses Montana southeastward into Yellmvstone National Aires will become a r eality. Within Arizona's boundaries is found IO per cent of ments, each set aside and preserved by the federal govern­ Park, and traverses the length of Grand Teton National Along the Mexican Highway, our neighbor "south of the total length of this international highway system and ment for the pleasure and enlightment of all people. Park and the Jackson Hole country in Wyoming, before the border" offers its most colorful scenery to interest and more than one-fourth of the distance that is within the From the arctic permafrost flowers of Alaska to the touching in Idaho along the shores of Bear Lake. Utah intrigue all travelers, its universities, health and resort U nited States. U.S. 89 in Arizona was built at a total co st near tropic Aora density of Southern Mexico the route offers many of its cities, including Salt Lake City w ith its locations and ancient Spanish background, not to omit the surpassing 38 million dollars with an annual maintenance offers the traveling world a panorama of many of nature's Mormon Temple Square, the unique fascination of the picturesqueness one finds in visiting a "foreign" country. of h50,ooo. Its construction through deserts and moun­ and ma n's grea test accomplishments. To drive the entire Great Salt Lake, bes ides the grandeur of Bry ce Canvon To do justice to all of the scenic and historic land­ tains has been merited by the vast traffic flow alono- its length of this great hi ghway would be a traveler's dream and Zion National Parks and three noted National Monu­ marks found along the length of Highway of International way, by the increasing number of tourists seeking Ari­ supreme. Each section has its charm and appeal, its scenic ments-Timpanogos Cave, Capitol Reef and Cedar Breaks. Grandeur would take a book to describe-they all con­ zona's vistas, and by the population within the state, an splendor an d hi storic importance, its interesting cities and Arizona's segment of_ this mighty highw ay brings a tribute momentously. Too, the infinite variety of peoples estimated 300,000 optimum annually, that depends upon countrysides. wonderland of color and mspiration, frontier hi story and and customs adds to the colorful miles. The many Indian this route. Serving as the connecting link between Mexico A quick description of this North American route miraculous development, as the route bisects the entire tribes, quaint cow towns, remote mining and logging and all northern states, U.S. 89 has a real part in the move­ in its entirety would start w ith its northern terminus at length of the state. The longest highway w ithin the communities, modern cities and unique isolated villages ment of motorists in this modern world on wheels. Fairbanks. For 266 miles t he highway cuts through the Arizona borders, 89 holds within its reach both the North are all within the view on this tour of the continent. Each The highway's economic value in Arizona is inesti-

PAGE TE N • A R T Z O"J -A ll l G H ',VAY S • TI IARCH 195 7 mable in dollars. It is vital for the movement of produce, from Jacob Lake through pines, aspens and mountain are good accommodations at Cameron, which is the east­ manufacturing and mining products within the state to the meadows replete with the famed Kaibab deer to the ern entrance to. the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. At rest of the nation, as a tourist route and for the use of bus mighty chasm that has awed and thrilled millions through­ Grand Canyon Village, 56 miles along the rim, the facili­ and truck lines to serve the public. Nor can one surmise out the world. Grand Canyon National Park, either ties including those of the Fred Harvey system are com­ in monetary amounts the aesthetic import and spiritual north or south rim, needs no introduction-its spectacular plete to meet all needs. From the South Rim one can con­ comfort offered by U.S. 89 to a multitude of travelers as splendor stands alone on this earth. fylost adequate ac­ tinue southward to rejoin Highway 89 near Williams in well as Arizona residents through the natural grandeur commodations are available at Jacob Lake, Kaibab Lodge an alternate loop. A return to Highway 89 at Cameron, GALLATIN that is brought within their reach. The state's motto­ and at the North Rim where numerous types of service however, is urged so that the opportunity of seeing three NATIONAL are offered by the Utah Parks company. National Monuments will not be missed. .. FOREST - Ditat Deus, meaning "God Enriches" -is personified to its supreme heighth along this route. From Jacob Lake, 89 now brings the traveler through Twenty miles south of Cameron on 89 is Wupatki Ever-changing scenic vistas, a variety of climatic con­ a rapid succession of majestic vistas. Then out of the pine National Monument, once flourishing trading center of ditions with native flora and fauna, and an awakening of forest of Kaibab plateau the road emerges to present a pre-historic Indians, now viewed as imposing ruins. The the possibility of such a variance are opened to the travel­ panorama of endless miles-miles of distant formations in Citadel formerly was a fortified apartment house that ing public by "89." Probably few places afford the varia­ the Vermillion Cliffs, pulsing desert and barren rock out­ expounds the engineering skill of these early people. Wu­ croppings. From the heighth of the plateau Houserock patki (Hopi, "big house") is a point of archae9logical im­ YELLOWSTONt.NA,:t ONAL PARK tion of plant life in such few miles. It offers a wealth of knowledge for botanists who come from throughout the Valley stretches far belo,v and it is here that the traveler portance and will aid in understanding the ancient !ife of world to explore and study the climatic range from receives his initial introduction to the vastness and expanse this vast area. GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK ' Canadian alpine to tropic-desert. Soaring upward from of Arizona scenery. Down in Houserock Valley, if one is Another National Monument, Sunset Crater, is only JACKSO N HOLE 4,671 foot elevation at Fredonia, just within the Utah­ fortunate, may be seen the great buffalo herd that is main­ • 7 miles farther south. The crater is a mountainous 1,ooo F"' };;,, Arizona line, the highway climbs to a high of 7,921 feet tained by the Arizona Game and Fish Commission. foot cone of cinders from the last eruption about a thou­ I at Jacob Lake on the lofty Kaibab plateau, drops and rises After descending the winding cliff road, through the sand years ago and the road approaching it leads past ice I over high desert and mountain landscape through Flagstaff small settlement of Houserock, Highway 89 traverses caves, lava beds, cinder dunes and formations of lava and Prescott, dips suddenly to the lowest point of 1,092 across far-reaching desert and ragged bluff country for "squeeze-ups." The chance to examine an extinct volcano feet at Phoenix, and then maintains a fairly consistent rise 30 miles to reach the roaring Colorado River at Marble is worthy of attention. through the home of the cacti to 3,865 feet at Nogales. Canyon. Navajo Bridge, 834 feet long, is an inspiring:en­ To the westward of Highway 89, opposite Sunset Within this altitude change of 6,829 feet is found the gineering accomplishment that spans the chasm 467 feet Crater, looms the lofty summit of Humphreys Peak, mountain and desert splendor for which Arizona is noted above the muddy torrent. This is the only highway crpss­ 12,670 feet, the highest peak in Arizona and part of the -presented to the world by Highway 89. ing of the river for 1,ooo miles. From the village at impressive San Francisco Mountains that make Flagstaff The highway enters Arizona, just 2.5 miles south of Marble Canyon it is but five miles, via the old "dug way," a noted winter sports resort and affords cool summer days. ·WYOMING Kanab, Utah, into what is generally referred to as "The to Lee's Ferry, the famous crossing point of the Colorado Just east of Flagstaff, Highway 89 joins with U.S. 66. Strip," which is simply that northwest portion of the state for the earliest pioneers who were stout-hearted to face From this junction it is a short trip of nine miles to beauti­ lying north of the Grand Canyon. For many years before the perils of a flatboat portage in the swift current. ful Walnut Canyon National Monument, with its Indian UTAH the Colorado and Little Colorado rivers were spanned by Crossing the bridge one enters the Navajo Indian ruins found under overhanging ledges and surrounded by bridges, it was isolated from the rest of the state and was Reservation, largest in the United States, and for the next former cultivated crop areas. Nowhere else in the world once claimed by Utah. 7 5 miles southward will be seen many signs of the Indian can such varied creations by ancient man and nature, now Fredonia, with a population of around 500, is a pio­ inhabitants, the family groups, hogan dwellings, the preserved in three National Monuments, be found in so neer Mormon settlement, established in the 188o's, and just sheep herds and gardens along the highway. The Indian few miles. 3.5 miles inside the Arizona border. This is the largest color blends harmoniously into the subtle hues and strange Flagstaff, with its 6,895 foot elevation and population community between the state line and Flagstaff, some 200 formations of the Painted Desert through which the high­ of 16,ooo~', is four miles west from the junction of High­ miles to the south on U.S. 89 and 66, though there are way is built. Thirty-three miles from the Colorado River ways 89-66. This flourishing town is the county seat of numerous smaller service centers and many points of in­ is the trading post, Cedar Ridge, and six miles farther on Coconino (Pinon, "nut people") county through which triguing interest between. To the right out of Fredonia,; is The Gap from which a dirt side road leads some 20 the tourist has traveled since entering Arizona on 89. Here a distance of three miles over an unimproved road, one can miles eastward into the White Mesa country and to Kai­ against a backdrop of mountain splendor are found in­ gain his first introduction to Indian inhabitants of Arizona. bito, deep within the reservation interior. tensive lumber operations, Arizona State College at Flag­ BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK Here is located the Kaibab (Paiute, "on the mountain") The main road from Highway 89 into the Navajo staff, famed Lowell Astronomical Observatory, and the Indian Reservation of the Paiutes who are found in various and Hopi reservations, however, lies 25 miles farther south Northern Arizona Museum with its noteworthy exhibits ZION NATI ON AL PARK locations in Arizona, Utah, Nevada and California. Moc­ where one can turn to Tuba City, a main Navajo trading of Indian culture. From Flagstaff also is reached the Snow MARBL E CANYON casin, agency headquarters and center of the reservation center and the western reservation headquarters with Bowl, main Arizona field of winter sports. life, is 15 .8 miles further on and also reached by this road, schools and hospital. Here within a few miles are seen The all-Indian Pow-Wow is the outstanding summer just past the junction to Moccasin, is Pipe Spring Nation­ a petrified forest, dinosaur tracks and balanced rocks. This attraction with members of many tribes gathering to pre­ al Monument, the first site set aside by the government road also leads onward to Tonalea where it branches into sent a program of dances and races each Fourth of July. that the travelers can visit from Highway 89. the reservation roads that bring two remote National Flagstaff is the center for a great amount of Indian trad­ From Pipe Spring one can continue west and then Monuments-Navajo and Rainbow Bridge-before the ad­ ing and these early Americans can be seen on the streets southwest over a somewhat primitive road to Tuweep miring eyes of those travelers who will take the time and in considerable numbers; The headquarters for the Coco­ ( about 60 miles) and gain a view of the inner gorge of make the effort to include in their trips an intimate view nino National Forest is in this city, as are numerous other the Colorado River in Grand Canyon National Monu­ into Indian life and of nature's grandeur. Far inside the governmental agencies. ment, lying westward of the National Park. Only local reservation are roads that go to Shonta and to Kayenta, Just to the west of Flagstaff two routes are avqilable inquiry can determine the advisability of this trip depend­ entrance to Monument Valley. Or from Tuba City and to the motorist. Highway 89 continues along with 66 WICKENB URG throuo·h Williams to near Ash Fork and thence southward ing on road conditions. Moenkopi branches the road to the Hopi villages on their b . . to Prescott, while 89 Alternate turns south and tours the ARIZONA Back at Fredonia and Highway 89, the motorist con­ lofty cliffs. Since accommodations throughout the reser­ Oak Creek-Verde Valley area, rejoining 89 just north of tinues southward for 30 miles through ever rising land vations are limited, advance inquiry is recommended. Prescott. into Kaibab National Forest to reach Jacob Lake, gateway Returning to Highway 89, the route leads ten miles to the north rim of the Grand Canyon and highest poised farther south to Cameron, built beside the "singing" sus­ ''All population figures are for "city trading areas," based on 1954 settlement along 89 in Arizona. It is a picturesque 44 miles pension bridge that spans the Little Colorado River. There estimate of the Research Department, Valley National Bank.

PAGE THIRTEEN • ARIZONA HTCH"' AYS • NIARCH 1957 -- · ·.:::,• _"'...,"' T A H u ------=---=--~- ~~~~~= ~F~ -· u. S. HIGHVIAV 89 ARIZONA

BY CARL R. ERICKSON The northern half of this highway is through high mountain country, much of it timbered, and through a .stretch of the Painted Desert at a slightly lower elevation. Jacob Lake at 7911 feet above M.S ..L. is the second highest point on a U.S. designated high·way in :Arizona. During winter months temperatures on this northern portion of the highway approach lows equivalent to latitudes much Jmt6er north. ·Short periods with temperatures of zero and below · _:ire experienced most every winter. Severe snowstorms, while not ' frequent; are to be anticipated. There is usually some snow on the ground from December through March. Adequate radiator protec­ tion and chains for emergencies in ice or snow are "musts'' for winter travel on 89 from Fredonia southward through Jacob Lake, and from Flagstaff to \Nilliams, to Prescott. · < Summer weather in this area is cool with frequent thunder­ From Flagstaff, 89 courses through the great pine flats showers. Thundershowers in the mountain sections · occur fre­ of the Coconino Forest, across the Arizona Divide to Bel­ quently during July and August. The period of the day most free ·of showers is from 7 a.m. to noon. An except_ion to this general mont, site of the USA Navajo Ordnance Depot, and on to weather is along the stretch from ;House Rock to \Vupatki Junc­ Parks where to the left one gains glances of a very beauti­ _don, which is of desert characterist~c. Here higher summer tempera­ ful meadow area often called Garden Prairie. Just two tures will be encountered and orly about one-half the shower miles from Williams is the junction with State Highway \ . activity present in the northern m~untain portions of U.S. 89. 64 leading northward to the Grand Canyon of Arizona, South of Yarnell Hill to Tucson the elevation is considerablv lciwer and a warmer desen climate is encountered. \Vinter ten;­ only 59 miles away. This is the point at which one ·who peratures are mild in this area an:d only a minimum of radiator has taken the tour of the Canyon from the junction at protection is necessary. Winter rai:ns are infrequent, occurring on Cameron will return to 89. While the traveler who has the average on about one day in eight and snow is a rarity. Summers followed the highway from the Utah border has already ' are hot through the central portions of "89." Temperatures over had two opportunities to approach the Grand Canyon JOo0 are the rule from June through mid-September with tem­ (from Jacob Lake and Cameron) if not done prior should peratures of !05° and over encountered frequently. The thunder­ not pass this third opportunity to go for a never forgotten ,shower season is from July to September. The frequency of sum­ mer showers increases as one approaches the southern boundary visit to the great wonder spot of the world. of the state on "89." Showers occur mostly during late afternoons The town of Williams is the center of vast lumbering, and evenings; Occasional severe thundershowers are encountered cattle and recreational activities and home of the Bill Wil­ ' ,, on.this portion of the highway although delays due to flash floods liams Mountain Men, who annually grow beards and are infrequent and usually of only a few hours' duration. make a horseback trek from their mountain haunts to the From Tucson south _to Nogales the elevation rises slowly, Valley of the Sun in southern Arizona. Williams, a com­ reaching almost 4000 feet near the Mexican border. Winter rem­ -peratures are cooler, _although not severe. Moderate radiator pro­ munity of 4,000, is the second largest in Coconino County .-.,;,,I'\, .,.£:" - Kb'i#4 , tection is advisable for early mornings. The frequency of winter and headquarters for the Kaibab National Forest. It was -'~*""--;:..,.~:'.<,,r./~ ~-f ii?''•" • precipitation does not· increase _along this stretch although snow named for the famous mountain scout whose memorv the - . is occasi,onally _enco _untered. sp,ow melts, usua11y _i _n a few hours inhabitants seek to keep alive. A prominent mot{ntain after falling, and presenrs no llazar9 t9 ·the careful . driver. nearby bears his name as does a stream arising in the pine­ . , During summer, temperafure!F ar~ hot 'and days over 100• __ ._ frequent .. The. sumn;Jer; .thW:1:d~t$l:1Cnver , ~<:a,s9q )s froin late_ June covered heights. to _early -SepteIJJbli:,r. Sh_o\Vets, are::tteque9t d~ring July and A ugusc, Continuing westward from Williams, Highway 89 being ericqu~teii~4;;atirl§s\: _, ~¥11y\li~ _till!es, pccasional traffic delays again traverses part of the Kaibab National Forest through d:ue to _flash ,.floods 9~cur Ou-ting -this pefiod: although -these delays the yellow pines, coming to a great opening at the top of are _t'ernpora1y,iSJi&~~l',acti:iity ,is'.,af a mininm~from about 7 a.m. the Ash Fork Hill that gives a perspective of many miles until noon, _ , :;, ,-- __ /·\; · , ,,,. <·-,'· , _. to north, west and south. Descending to the juniper cov­ · Strong s~~th~~- ,)Vipd~t _with blowiµg_ d~t, ,uay become a hazard on rile soi:itherti: :P'oTTip11- <>{ thi~J~igh~.i.y during the months ered plain, 89 turns to the south while 66 goes on to Ash _F ebruacy :. to Ju11~: ·cf:h}~}co111tt,i~11 :is e~tt~inely -variable. Fork, Seligman, Peach Springs and Kingman, crossing .. ::··.-'\"/ . .,,, ,· --~ ,!,:,· ,, roads that lead into the Havasupai and Hualpai Indian Q,/k'HIG.l:-IWA,\*' 89 -, A_LTERNATE reservations. One road to the Havasupai's canyon-bound .- ~~ ,,.' · .. ' · '· ,' ·.: ·,,:,·,, home leads out from Ash Fork but the only means of This alternat~ ,portfon l .'tfs. 8~ji~gins at Flagstaff. and ex­ entering this remote paradise is by foot or horseback and tends to Prescott yia Oak Creek,Canydn,_the Verde Valley, and over Mingus Mo\lntain to Pres.cott. In · winter · portions of 'this arrangements must be made in advance for the bringing highway experience quite low temperatures. _For · this reason mod­ of the horses to the rim. erate radiator protection is necessary over · this route. No specific On 89 southward· ( 5 3 miles to Prescott) one continues weather records are availa_ble for the Mingus Mountai~ divide over juniper covered hills of limestone in Yavapai ("people although winter temperatures near zero and snow are probable. of the hills") county, into terrain heavily populated with In upper Oak Creek both moderate rain and snow occur in winter, depending on the temperature. The Verde Valley, at inter­ deer and across the famous canyons of the pioneers, appro­ mediate elevation, -has mild winters with snow only rarely. priatel_v named Little Hell and Hell Canyons, because of In summer, temperatures are warm in Oak Creek Canyon, the terrific difficulty involved in bringing freighting wag­ occasionally hot in the Verde _Valley, and cool over Mingus ons across them. The hills give way to the wide spreading Mountain. Summer ~howenctiviry is frequent in July .and August, valley of Big Chino Wash. Beyond Paulden is a grove of _showers _occurring on about one day out of three. Showers are _ occasionally severe although _traffic. delays due to _flash floods are · -infrequent. The dry season is May· and June.

rkland Jct lA r r------~---1 giant old cottonwoods to the left of the highway which ·', marks the area of Del Rio springs, near which was located the first Arizona Territorial government for a few months in 1864. The capital was moved to Prescott later that year, NOTES FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS later to Tucson, back again to Prescott, and finally estab­ lished in Phoenix in 1 889. OPPOSITE P A G E The highway now approaches the farms of Chino Valley, a prospering small farm are~ surrounded by vast "TUMACACORI- REMINDER OF YESTERDAY"­ cattle outfits, some of the oldest in Arizona. The farms are BY JOSEF MUENCH. Tumacacori Mission, a few miles irrigated either by deep wells or from impounded waters north of Nogales on U.S. 89, is a N ational Monument, of Lake Watson. Pinto beans, alfalfa and small grains are picturesque landmark reminding us of yesterday's colonial the principal crops and there is a growing community of semi-retired persons who are obtaining small home sites Spain. T aken w ith a Linhof camera, with 6" Xenar lens, in a locality of comparative mild temperatures affording 1I 10th second at f.2 0 on 4x5 daylight Ektachrome film. an opportunity for gardening and relaxation. Beyond the The photographer was intrigued by a great cloud pushing farms again are seen the grassed plains and w aterholes that up above the old mission, emphasizing its Jines and fi lling support herds of Hereford cattle. Too, this is truly the the sky. land "w here the deer and antelope play" and small groups of pronghorns ( there really are no true antelope native to America) may be seen browsing along the way. FO L LOWING P AGE S In Granite Dells, 12 miles farther on, Highway 89 is "SAN FR ANCISCO PEAKS, ARIZONA"-BY JO SEF rejoin ed by 89A just five miles north of Prescott. This junction occurs in one of the most unique areas in the MU ENCH. Taken w ith Speed G raphic-6" Ektar lens on region and the great granite formations are often likened 4x5 daylight Kodachrome fi lm. Exposure 1/ 25th second to the Garden of the Gods in Colorado. at f.1 r. A hike up the slippery 1000-foot slopes of Sunset Highway 89A, w hich separates from 89 at Flagstaff, Crater is well worth the effort-showing below black is the alternate route to Prescott and presents in less than cinder dunes, extensive forest cover and the splendid· and 1 oo miles as great a variety of spectacular scenes as can he found anywhere in the world. From Flagstaff, the regal view of San Francisco Peaks-often with a snowy route turns southward through the Coconino Forest and drape as they were on this spring forenoon. in two miles reaches the road to Lake Mary and Mormon Lake and hence to the Long Valley road to the Mogollon "NAVAJO ENCAMPMENT NEAR '89' "-BY JOSEF Rim. Within three miles along 89A one notes the fences MUENCH. Speed Graphic, 6" Elnar lens, 4x5 daylight of old Fort Tuthill (for many years the summer camp for Ektachrome fi lm. Exposure-1 / 10th second a\ f.22. Driv­ Arizona's N ational Guard and now the property of Co­ ing along U.S. 89 in Northern Arizona, the photographer conino County) and then the route leads over a plateau of saw a group of wagons and pickups nearby on a side road hills and cany ons through some of the richest timber lands of Arizona to the brink of Oak Creek Canyon. At the top and couldn't resist investigating. Probably there for a of the cany on is a very inviting Forest Camp and a look­ "Sing." A number of Navajos were gathered there on the out that gives a view w orthy of stopping to behold. Below colorful desert :;ind did not mind having their picture is se en the winding modern highway that leads down the taken in their colorful blankets. U.S. 89 traverses a large walls of a box cany on to an enchanting luscious narrow va lley of quiet and contentment. portion of the Navajo Indian Reservation. Once dow n in the canyon the road parallels Oak "CLOUDS OVER SUNSET CR ATER"-BY C. F. Creek w hose gurgling sounds make happy the heart, and STOODY. Taken in , Coconino County near Flagstaff, 3 in various camp grounds along the w ay are ample oppor­ tunities for picnicking, camping and fun. Within the steep o'clock in the afternoon in August immediately after a cany on w alls and tall trees and ferns the miles pass all light shower. View camera, 4x5 Ektachrome film, 1 / 20th too quickly, past great red buttes with little verdant farms second at f.18. Great, billowy thunderheads of summer, and orchards nestling beneath them. Oak Creek is a haven sweeping in over the high plateau and mountain country for fi shermen and the area affords some of the best trout of Northern Arizona, add majesty to the ma jestic scenery. fi shing in Arizona. Sedona, which has grow n rapidly in recent years "NAVAJO BRIDGE OVER THE COLOR AD O"-BY from a sleepy village to an expanding center for beauty­ RAY MANLEY. Scene is west of Lee's Ferry in the heart loving permanent residents and artists, is situated at the of the Vermil ion Cliffs .and Marble Canyon. Aerial view mouth of the cany on w here the full splendor of the lauded red rock formations is revealed. The color and aw esome­ made on 5'x7 Anscochrome, 1/475th second at f.9, 8½ ness of Sedona's natural setting will hold the traveler in inch Schneider Symar lens, 5x7 Linhof camera, fi lm proc­ admiration for indefinite time-so much so that it seems essed for correct exposure and color balance. T he bridge brutal to disrupt that spell to describe other places along is a historic landmark on "89," being the first bridge ever the highway. From Sedona a side road leads across the creek, past built crossing the Colorado. the lodge that is headquarters for numerous movie com­ panies that have and are using the scenic beauty for fas­ cinating backgrounds and out into more open country

P AG E SI XT EEN • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH 1957 "San Francisco Peaks, Arizona" JOSF.F MUENCH FOLLOW l :\ c; PA:\ F. L

"Navajo Encampment" JOSEF MUENCH "Navajo Bridge 01-·er the Colorado" RAY MANLEY " The Green Fields of Sa11 Xm:ia" RAY MA:\LF.Y

"Laud of the Giant Cactus" JOSEF MUENCH "S/Jri11p; Freshet- Sabi110 Ca11you" ESTHER HE'.\DERSO'.\ "89 Through Granite Dells" RAY MANLEY where individual red rock formations loom high in the near distance. It is 15 miles to Montezuma Well, site of pre-historic ruins and a vast irrigation system, and onward "THE GREEN FIELDS OF SAN XAVIER"-BY RAY nine miles to Montezuma Castle National Monument, out­ MANLEY., Historic San Xavier Mission, with Tucson standing for its lofty dwelling of five stories nestled against a high cliff. Misnamed for the famous Mexican Mountains in background, is near "89" not far from Tuc­ Indian Chief Montezuma, who never saw the location, the son. SX7 Ektachrome, 1/1oth second at f.18, SX7 Deardorff , structure of mud and timber is described better as a forti­ camera. Typical summer thunderheads rising fast requiring fied apartment house rather than a castle. Extensive farm­ fast setting up of camera in pre-selected location staked ing was carried on by these pre-historic dwellers before some undetermined peril forced them to leave. _out on previous ·scouting trip. San Xavier still serves the A fe,v miles beyond the entrance to Montezuma Indians of the area, w ho have been tilling the fertile land Castle is Camp Verde, formerly Fort Lincoln of early nearby f?r generations. Indian-fighting days. By the end of this year the northern junction for the Camp Verde leg of the Black Canyon "LAND OF THE GIANT CACTUS"-BY JOSEF highway ( 79) which continues to Phoenix, will be con­ structed thus far. At the present the traveler must back­ MUENCH. Taken with a Linhof camera with 6" Xenar track from Camp Verde through Cornville to rejoin 89A lens at 1/Ioth second at f.16 with 4x5 daylight Ekta­ at a point 1 8 miles below Sedona. Instead of this "loop" chrome film. Summer thunderclouds on an August after­ the motorist may follow the highway directly out of noon, with the Saguaros standing in irregular ranks, made Sedona through continued red rock formations with back­ an irresistible subject, among Ocotillos and Prickly Pear ward views giving an ever-widening expanse of the can­ yon country. cactus, spreading clear to desert mountains on the skyline. Just beyond the junction with the road that had led from Montezuma Castle the traveler gains a sweeping "'891 THROUGH GRANITE DE_LLS"-BY RAY view of the fertile Verde Valley with its towering cotton­ MANLEY. Granite Dells recreation area is a few miles wood trees and irrigated farms along the Verde River, a main tributary of the Salt River. By looking carefully north of Prescott on "89." Road has been widened to four along the mountain range that looms ahead one should be lanes and is a beautiful and safer road. It is the dividing able to discern the famous mining town of Jerome, cling­ point for "89" and "89 Alternate" going through Jerome ing precariously to the steep slope, some miles distant to and the Verde Valley via Oak Creek to Flagstaff. The the right. photographer wouldn't advise climbing on these rocks Cottonwood, trading center for the Verde residents, is a prospering community with beautiful shade trees about without crepe or rubber soles, especially with 30-pound five miles from the bridge crossing. Its near neighbors are camera equipment. Camera: 5x7 Linhof, 8½ inch Symar the old mining town of Clemenceau, named for the g-reat lens, 1/25th second at f.'20, daylight Anscochrome, French statesman, and the copper smelting city of Clark­ October. dale, whose residents today await further development for utilization of the dormant smelter facilities. Tuzigoot National Monument, two miles from Clark­ "SPRING FRESHET - SABINO CANYON" - BY dale, is an uncovered hilltop village of early age that dis­ ESTHER HENDERSON. lt is a wet spring, that is, closes the intricate pattern of rooms and fortifications so when Sabino Canyon, near Tucson, was filled with water vital for survival in that era. An interesting museum pre­ gushing from the Catalina Mountains. Here, camera and sents graphic evidence of the pre-historic culture of the photographer were both in waist-high water but out of settlement. Clarkdale, named for Senator W. A. Clark, developer the main swirl of the stream. SX7 Deardorff View camera, of Jerome, is a stereotype company town built by the Ektachrome film, Goerz Dagor lens, 1/25th at f.11 . Sabino United Verde Copper company in 19 r r to house the Canyon is a popular picnic area for Tucsim residents and smelter workers. From Clarkdale's altitude of 2,568 feet, visitors. Highway 89A begins a rapid climb up Mingus Mountain to Jerome, named for the grandfather of Winston Church­ ill. In six miles the highway soars upward to Jerome's • • • 5,435 foot elevation and winds in unique fashion through narrow cobble-stoned streets. Now Arizona's most noted OPPOSITE PAGE "ghost city," Jerome with its vastly interesting museum "ETERNAL WATERS OF OAK CREER"-BY ROB­ of mining development, continues to slip down the moun­ ERT E. LINDHOLM. As Oak Creek comes tumbling tainside, although its greatly decreased population of a -down from the base of the Mogollon Rim, it forms quiet few families from the peak of 15 ,ooo people in 1929, steadfastly maintains its firm grip on the deeply tunneled pools and gay little waterfalls. T he photographer here site. The view from Jerome alone would induce many to portrays one of the loveliest spots in Oak Creek Canyon. hang on forever. Old mining operations are revealed along the high­ way as 89A climbs upward from Jerome over Mingus Mountain to a high of 7,029 feet through thick pine coun-

PAGE TWENTY - FIVE • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS ill i'/!ARCH 1957 Going south front "89'' at Jacob Lake, a pleasant road leads to North Rini, Grand Canyon. Roadside picnic area is popular at Marble Canyon.

try and side meadows. Dropping down from the summit 14,000, also has the Arizona Pioneer's Home, where long­ Fields of pine sunfiowers add a gay note to "8 !)'' near the San Francisco Peaks. the route emerges into Lonesome Valley, with its far­ time residents of the state can spend their last days in reaching cattle range and the likely glimpse of prong­ congenial comradeship, is sur·rounded by numerous camps horns. Across the valley can be seen Granite Dells, where and resort locations testifying to its importance as a sum­ 89A rejoins 89, and the mountains that surround Prescott, mer vacation spot, and is home of the Smoki People, local 26 miles from Jerome. businessmen and women who in early August present the Leaving Granite Dells one will see Lake Watson on Smoki Ceremonials in which Indian dances and traditions the left from which the water is taken by open canal to are authentically depicted. Prescott, home ·of the firs't the farms in Chino Valley. The impressive buildings rodeo, carries on this tradition for three days each Fourth grouped on the outskirts of Prescott house the Whipple of July with a big Frontier Days celebration. Noteworthy Veterans Administration Center. This modern hospital is also are the Smoki Museum, the courthouse of classic located on the site of the old frontier military establish­ Grecian lines in a tree shaded plaza, Solon Borglum's ment of Fort Whipple, once headquarters for the great statue "The Roughrider" commemorating the Spanish Indian fighter, General George Crook, and many others War company organized here to follow Teddy Roosevelt of national fame. Beyond Whipple is the junction with at San Juan Hill, and the many churches which are among Highway 69 that leads to Phoenix via Dewey, Humboldt, the oldest of Protestant heritage in this last frontier state Mayer, Rock Springs and New River through an area of the union. rich in early mining lore. The county seat for Yavapai county, Prescott is the Prescott, the "mile-high city" of Arizona, has more shopping center for vast miles of ranching and farming territorial history than probably any other location in the areas as well as a newly increased interest in mining ac­ state. Established in 1864 as the first capital of the Terri­ tivities throughout the mountain region. tory of Arizona, this area had been the scene of rich gold Leaving the town, Highway 89 rises immediately into mining before Fort Whipple was built to house the first ponderosa forest land, winding through what is known government and give protection from the Indians. The as "The White Spar" and dropping down into Kirkland original Governor's Mansion and the subsequently estab­ and Peeple's valleys, large cattle sections, and then to Y ar­ lished Sharlot Hall Museum, founded by Arizona's be­ nell, 34 miles distant, which is a cool summer hiatus for loved late poetess laureate, are focal points to portray the Salt River Valley residents and a growing community. log cabin buildings of by-gone years and the mementos In Yarnell a sign points to the Shrine of St. Joseph, one of that era. mile off the highway, where almost life size statues depict This modern town, with a trade area population of events in the life of Jesus. From the top of Yarnell Hill

PAGE TWENTY-SIX • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH 1957 Navajos, filling canteem near Tuba cutofT, are seen from "89." T ravelers on "89'' enjoy spring-blooming thistle poppies near Vermilion Cliffs.

the highway descends rapidly along the mountainside In the winter there are many pastures filled with cattle is worthy of a visit as are South Mountain and Papago ties, the city was planned in its beginning with wide bou­ dropping close to 2,000 feet in eight miles and affording and sheep for feeding. Parks, the Historical Society and Heard Museums, the levards which even today in the increased flow of traffic endless views of the spreading desert below. At Morristown, 1 r miles below Wickenburg, is a Art Center and such other places as Sky Harbor, one of are sufficiently wide. Congress Junction, once a center of mining and junction to the left that leads to the well-known Castle the busiest airports in the United States. Baseball teams of During the 17 mile drive from Mesa to Apache Junc­ ranching importance, is the junction with Highway 71 Hot Springs area in Hieroglyphic Mountains. This trip the National and American Leagues hold their spring tion are found extensive farming areas, cultivated fields (Aguila cutoff) that angles southwest toward Highways of 2 r miles is one of the most spectacular in central Ari­ training at Phoenix and other cities of Southern Arizona and groves, all fed by water from behind Roosevelt Dam. 60-70 and hence to the west coast. This area presents a zona. Beyond Morristown, 89 passes through the desert with the warm-up series of games enthusiastically sup­ At the junction state Highway 88 turns northward-the most interesting variet~r of desert flora and a side road center of Wittman, to Beardsley, the division point be­ ported. famous Apache trail route that presents unsurpassed sce­ leads to a picturesque Joshua forest. However, Highway tv.:een desert and cultivated land: on across the Agua Fria Pueblo Grande Ruins, home of the ancient Hohokam nic views, Tonto National Monument and Roosevelt Lake. 89 continues on from Congress Junction, crossing the River, dry at this point because its water is stored behind who were the original irrigation farmers in this area, is The main highways angle southeastward with the famed Maricopa county line, to Wickenburg, dude ranch capital Carl Pleasant Dam in the far purple mountains. Now the located on the eastern outskirts as one leaves Phoenix to Superstition Mountains and their sought-after Lost of the world and famous for its western atmosphere. With communities come in closer sequence, Agua Fria, Mari­ continue along Highway 89. Before reaching Tempe, 16 Dutchman mine looming high to the left. The mountains' an altitude of 2,076 feet and population of 3,000, Wicken­ nette and Peoria, on through Glendale from which leads miles away, is Papago State Park with its cactus and bo­ strange formations, resembling human figures on many of burg offers a full program for its -winter guests with al­ a main road to Luke Air Force Base, Litchfield Park, loca­ tanical gardens, picnic areas and natural stadium. Arizona the peaks, and their foreboding secretiveness have inspired most weekly rodeos at various dude ranches, the annual tion of Goodyear's experimental farms, and other of the State College at Tempe highlights the activity of this many of the state's most widely known legends which to­ Los Cabelle;·os and Los Damas horseback rides, the Easter northern Salt River Valley communities. From Glendale town of r 5,ooo population, which is the center also for a day entice hundreds to seek for lost treasures. on Horseback desert sunrise service, and tops its activity the next nine miles are in greatly increased traffic indicat­ vast farming area that flourishes along the Salt River. Florence Junction, r 7 miles away, is the dividing each spring \\·ith the Gold Rush Days celebration. The ing the approach to the hub of Arizona's business and Tempe's history goes back to 18 7o's with its origin as a point for the highways, with 89 turning southward. How­ town's early history is linked with fabulous mining ven­ political life-Phoenix. trading post and ferry crossing over the river. The Uni­ ever, 12 miles eastward on Highways 60-70 is the Boyce tures and much of its legend hinges on the Hassayampa The state's rapidly-growing capital city, Phoenix versity of Arizona Experiment Farm is located about three Thompson Southwestern Arboretum with its trernend.ous River flowing through the town. 'Tis said that those who (named for the phantom bird that arose from the ashes) is miles away. collection of desert flora. These spectacular gardens defi­ drink from its waters never again can tell the truth. a happy combination of spreading industrialization and re­ Six miles along Highways 89-60-70 is Mesa, settled by nitely merit the short sidetrip. Along Highway 89 from . . In _this i1:teresting and colorful tmvn, Highway 89 laxed desert resort living. In the heart of a vast produce Mormon pioneers and location of the Arizona Mormon Florence Junction the route is built through interesting JOl!1s with Highways 60- 70 as one route for a 100 mile farming area, the city is Arizona's largest and offers a full Temple, spiritual center for the Church of Jesus Christ desert landscape where varied cacti can be seen in all sizes, stretch, through Phoenix and on eastward to Florence calendar of urban attractions and events, along with many of Latter-day Saints in the state. The Temple is sur­ shapes and colors. In the springtime, the cacti blossoms are Junction before 89 turns southward toward /Vlexico. The uniquely western activities such as its rodeos, fairs, gold rounded by acres of gardens with perhaps the most ex­ magnificent. An historical boundary is observed with the road toward P_hoenix from Wickenburg leads along the treks and pioneer reunions. There is always much going tensive landscaping found anywhere in Arizona. Tours crossing of the Gila River which intil the Gadsden Pur­ Hassayampa River and over a typical desert terrain which on and each year sees new activities added. However, not of the garden are conducted each day from 8 a.m. to 6 chase in 185 3 marked the border between Arizona and brings the southbound traveler the first glimpse of the everything in this great city is seasonal and every visitor p.m. with more than roo,ooo visitors annually. The Mesa Mexico. The river today is primarily a dry, sandy wash transformation of desert cultivation for which the Salt shmild make an effort to see the city and its environs. The population of 32 ,ooo ( still based on the trade area figures) with its waters impounded behind Coolidge Darn, many River Valley has skyrocketed in importance. Cotton, al­ Capitol with its paintings and museum in the Archives is largely engaged in produce and citrus farming, mill miles eastward. falfa and vegetable fields extend far to the right and left. should be seen; the fine city library at the Civic Center and packing house operations. Like all Mormon communi- Florence, the county seat of Pinal County, is reached

PAGE TWENTY-EIGHT • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH 1957 At Desert View, just 40 miles west of "89," one comes upon this view of Grand Canyon. Alternate U.S. 89, from Flagstaff to Prescott, passes through Sedona-Red Cliff country.

A few hours out of the pines in Northern Arizona, "89'' introduces the Arizona desert. in another 1 7 miles. Located amid colorful desert moun­ University of Arizona with its many student act1v1t1es. tain surroundings, the town of 3,200 population blends Within easy reach for the traveler are the grounds and into its background with many adobe structures. This is buildings on the campus, the Pioneer Historical Society the site of the Arizona State Prison and within this county Museum, ruins of Old Fort Lowell, Old Tucson (rebuilt has been a fast developing cotton empire, rapidly chang­ movie sets) and Tucson Mountain Park with its Desert ing the entire economy and increasing the population. Museum. Florence itself is on the northern edge of this new devel­ Davis-Monthan Air Base is nearby and Tucson itself opment but is the nucleus for considerable economic in­ has become the center for considerable development in crease. Eight miles west from Florence is Casa Grande the airplane industry and is destined to be a major point National Monument, one of the best preserved of the an­ in the growing network of plane routes to various Mexi­ cient adobe structures, with a four-story watch tower can and South American cities. Other industries continue topping well-defined ruins. to locate in this city increasing its importance as a me­ Also from Florence is a second class improved road tropolis. leading to Kelvin, Hayden, Winkleman and Christmas, Most unusual scenic attraction around Tucson, of important mining areas, then on to Mammoth, past the course, is Saguaro National Monument, just 17 miles to junction to San Manuel, Arizona's newly-built mining the east, where a large area has been set aside to preserve community, and on to Oracle to rejoin Highway 89 at a forest of these giant cacti. The largest cactus in the Oracle Junction, just 42 miles southwest of Florence. From United States, growing to heights from forty to sixty Oracle Junction to Tucson, a distance of 24 miles, the feet, the Saguaro's waxy white blossom is the state flower. road skirts the Coronado National Forest, center for Only in this area can one see mile after mile of the tower­ much of Tucson's outings and winter sports area. Near­ ing plants with their arms reaching to the heavens. ing the city are to be seen many fine desert homes and From Tucson, Highway 89 heads directly southward estates. This has long been a mecca for Americans from to Nogales and the Mexican border, a distance of 67 miles. the harsher climes and many very famous names are con­ This entire area is replete with history of early Arizona. nected with the ownership of homes in this region. Here crossed and recrossed the trails of the Spaniards and Tucson, meaning water at foot of black mountain, here the Apache made history even before the Spaniards is Arizona's second largest city with an area population of came. Still later Americans filled these pages of history 185 ,ooo and one of the state's oldest settlements dating with feats of daring and courage that give vital heritage ba~k to Mexican pueblo days. It is a beautiful desert city to this ever changing land-modern yet with strands of ( elevation 2,389 feet) affording much in history, culture, ancient threads joined in the woven pattern of the life amusement and an excellent warm winter climate. The today. county seat of Pima County, Tucson is the site of the Within view just beyond the junction with High-

PAGE THIRTY • AR I ZONA HJGHvVA YS • MARCH 1957 This air view shows "89'' passing the Kingsley Ranch between Nogales and Tucson on rodeo day. This is part of the rich Santa Cruz Valley where "89'' crosses productive range land. way 80 is the U.S. Veterans Hospital, another of the fine ance against the Apaches in early days. Here lived Pete facilities maintained in Arizona. At a point some six miles Kitchen, the man the Apaches could not dislodge, al­ son erected a trading post and rest stop on the American area) and the federal activities involved with a port of from Tucson is the road leading to Mission San Xavier though the Indians put so many arrows into his pigs that side for passengers traveling the Tucson-Guaymas stao-e. entry. Cattle and Mexican produce keep the railroad yards While everything is quiet now at this largest port of en~-y Del Bae two miles away. Established in 1 700 the Mission they looked like pin cushions. However the number of humming with the freight that is shipped from there. is conceded to be the most beautiful mission structure bullets that Kitchen and his family and workers put into from Mexico into Arizona, the period from 1 897 to 19 1 8 The. year-roun_d cl!mate of Ambos Nogales promotes in the Southwest, and is located within the San Xavier Apache bodies was also one of considerable quantity. The saw many frenzied days of border skirmishes and inter­ special celebrat10ns 111 all seasons. Both the American and Reservation of the Papago Indians. old home still stands as a worthy pioneer monument. national tension. Such famous Mexican names as Obregon, Mexican national holidays are observed by the people of Highway 89 continues south past several small com­ The highway now approaches the valley settlements Cabrel and Pancho Villa are recorded during that time. both towns with the Cinco de Mayo Fiesta ( Mexican Inde­ munities-Saharita, Continental and Amado, to another that mark the nearness to Nogales-a city that is divided Because of its unique location Nogales is the entry pendence Day) probably the most colorful. side road leading one-half mile to Tubae. Now a cluster by a fence on the international border. No one thinks point for much Mexican trade and the large imports of Nogales, Arizona, thus is the doorway throuo-h which of mud-colored adobe houses, Tubae is the oldest Spanish alone of one Nogales-it is Ambos Nogales. The two cities winter vegetables, especially tomatoes, that come from the Highway of International Grandeur leaves tl~e United settlement in Arizona and once the center of activity for wi~h their altitude of 3,865 feet, number a trade area popu­ northwestern Mexico. On both sides of the border there States into the coloquial charm and fascination of Mexico. are interesting shops, but it is on the Mexican side that the entire region. Just three miles from Tubae is Tuma­ lat10n of some 30,000 persons; the Arizona city is about The mighty highway of three nations completes its magic most American tourists spend their hours while in the way in the land of manana. From the frozen north to the cacori N ational Monument, one of the finest of the early 9,000. Spanish missions established in rich silver surroundings. The narrow canyon between the surrounding brown area. Here in this "Sonoran community vibrant with Mex­ tropic south each mile offers the traveler unforuettable Believed to be built on the site of a mission or rancheria ican life" are the quaint hillside homes and shops of a portraits of nature's splendor and man's enero-ic ~1ccom­ hills in which these two border cities are situated was an 0 visited by Father Kino in 1696, Tumacacori is the Papago early Spanish pass and was used as a shortcut from the El happy and friendly people with scheduled bull fights an plishments. In this long cavalcade of roadside allurement Indian word meaning "white stone bending over." Camino Real between Guaymas, Sonora and Tucson. The unusual attraction. Highway 89 in Arizona can claim its impressive share. A short distance below Calabasas one passes the old name meaning walnuts was taken from the grove of black Located in a cattle and mining region, Nogales, Ari­ Visitors from near or far will receive a hearty greeting-at Pete Kitchen ranch which was the stronghold of resist- walnut trees within this pass. Here, in 1880, Jacob Isaac- zona, is a thriving community that combines the bustle of the Utah state line and the Sonora border. There will be a county seat (Santa Cruz county, the state's smallest in a warm "welcome to Arizona" and a sad "adios amigos."

PAGE THIRTY-TWO • ARIZONA HIGH"WAYS • MARCH 1957 sional splendor, and if it is fall, the golden apsens and red­ below the tiny buildings of the town of Williams appear orange oaks will flame in a benign conflagration. As you at the end of the three blue jewels that are the city progress, the white-scarred switchbacks of the road be­ reservoirs. Lying on the thread that is U.S. 66 is the town tome visible as they zigzag upwards. of Ash Fork, eighteen miles to the west. The Santa Fe Almost exactly five miles from the town you will Railway divides below you, one leg going down through turn off the blacktop and enter the seven-mile stretch of the Johnson Canyon tunnel, the other swinging farther utility road which climbs to the summit. A yellow sign northwards. Lakes formed for storing water for cattle are warns you that you are traveling a one-track road with visible in many directions and always appear at least three turnouts for passing, but don't let that scare you; just take shades bluer than the sky. it slow and easy. You will be able to detect the presence The Mogollon Rim is clearly visible for many miles, of cars descending long before they are near you, and the punctuated by numerous canyons, among them wonder­ road has ample width for passing in many places. ful Sycamore, the white cliffs of which rise chalkily to As you ascend the horizon seems to roll back, and the south. Mingus Mountain, Chino Valley, Verde Valley, you will have the sensation of being in the center of an Tonto Basin, Sitgreaves, Kendricks, and the San Fran­ expanding universe. As the road weaves from the eastern cisco Peaks, and Mount Elden are easily viewed as_ you to the southern slope and over to the western slope, gaze around the 360 degree sweep of the vast panorama. three-fourths of the available panorama grows as you pro­ Northwards beyond the jutting North Rim of the Grand gress. The peaks Sitgreaves, Kendrick, and the San Fran­ Canyon lies the high green country of the North Kaibab. cisco group, which lie to the east, seem to be rising with The lookout's map mounted on a table in the center of you in somewhat the same manner as the moon seems to the little cabin makes it easy to identify landmarks. pace one in a rapidly moving vehicle. Off to the southeast Roney Jordan is the lookout and has been for the last the white cliffs of Sycamore Canyon begin to emerge. three fire seasons, from April until snowfall, usually in Mingus Mountain, which protects the ghost town of November. He and his five-year old son Dale live alone in Jerome, rises to the south. Roll down your car windows the small cabin at the base· of the tower, sometimes re,. and look upward to see the white scars of the switchbacks maining on the peak for as long as nine weeks without marching back and forth high up on the seemingly ver­ descending. Roney once found himself caught between View of Bill TVilliams Mountain from neighboring Summit Mountain tical sides of the mountain. You may begin to wonder if a mother bear and her cub in the thick growth near Chim­ you will ever reach the top without an elevator. ney Rock. "She was the biggest bear I have ever seen," Pine, oak, aspen, spruce, and then the firs appear. he said, "and the longer I looked at her, the bigger she Granite boulders and cliffs replace the malapai rock which got!" Unable to escape on either side, Roney waited out forms the lower strata. Squirrels are in every tree; deer several uncomfortable moments until the mother bear stand just off the road shoulder; and if you are lucky, you jumped upwards and somehow squeezed past Roney to Otd 73!/t Wif&mu' FfJJHJlfilh M(}(JJU/)U1; may catch sight of a bear or a turkey. Bandtailed pigeons get to her cub. whistle through the timber, and high on the peak are Before the road was opened, Roney had to hike up BY SCOTT HAYDEN found the foolish blue grouse, so tame that they will and down the trail on foot, Dale riding in his arms. At PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR flutter along barely out of reach. There are mountain lions twilight one evening Roney and Dale walked a short dis­ up here, and bob cats. Elk and antelope graze on the lower tance down the trail. Keeping mostly out of their sight, slopes. On the authority of one old-timer who first set a mountain lion began to parallel their course down the Legend has it that William Sherley Williams-better majesty and uplifting in its impressive glory.I foot on the mountain in 1909, H. L. Benham, the game is trail. Roney believes that the lion may have been stalking known as Old Bill Williams-lies in his grave at the top of George Wharton James was not exaggerating, nor as plentiful now as it was when he arrived. One exception Dale who was toddling along in the rear. At one spot Bill Williams Mountain in Northern Arizona. How this was he simply exercising his talent for writing powerful is the cotton-tail rabbit. where the trail entered a clearing, the lion was forced to legend got its start is not known, but the Sante Fe Railway description; that is the kind of prose needed to do justice About a mile from the top, on a straight stretch of come into the open. Roney blazed away at the lion with advertised it in some of its early tourist promoting litera­ to the job of describing the view from the top of Old the road, there is an opening, the road is widened enough a .22 caliber rifle and drove it off. ture. Many persons still believe it to be true in spite of Bill Williams' favorite mountain. You can easily verify for parking, and a small sign points to Chimney Rock Roney likes the lookout's job and intends to return several historical writers who have reported that Old Bill this by taking a look for yourself, now, since the opening Vista. You will have to leave your car and walk over a next year. He says that the mountain seems like home to Williams died at the hands of the Ute Indians in Southern in 1954 of a utility road to the highest point of the pine needle covered trail for a short distance to reach him, and he hates to leave it. Colorado in 1849. mountain. a point from which you can see Chimney Rock. This Besides its value as a primary fire lookout, Bill Wil­ Whether buried atop his mountain or not, Old Bill This single track road zigs, zags, and winds its seven­ needle-like formation stands about as high as a fifteen or liams Mountain has an extremely important function as a certainly could not have asked for a more spectacular spot mile length up the mountain in breathtaking fashion, af­ twenty story building; and it is visible from Highway 66 radio transmitting and receiving point. Radio installations for his last resting place. George Wharton James in his fording anyone strong enough to sit up in an automobile many miles below and to the west of Williams. Unless on the peak serve not only the Forest Service but also the book Arizona The Wonderland, which was published 38 the opportunity to view the unique scene which James you enjoy bulling your way through almost impenetrable Arizona Highway Patrol, the Arizona Highway Depart­ years ago, really let himself go when he described the view described in 191 7. Mr. James had to hike or ride a horse growth on the side of a seventy degree slope, don't ment, several northern counties' sheriffs' offices, and the from the top of Bill Williams Mountain. Mr. James, who up a narrow trail to reach the top, but the fact that you attempt to reach the base of the rock. city police department radios of Wickenburg, Prescott, had a wonderful command of description, called the view can now drive your car up a fairly smooth road does not From Chimney Rock Vista to the top the grade. is Williams, Holbrook, Winslow, and Kingman. The Public "incomparable," "the most comprehensive survey [ the detract from the thrill the traveler feels at the top. fairly steep. The last part of the drive spirals through a Service Corporation, which furnishes electricity to all of traveler's] eyes have ever allowed him to view," and To find the road, turn south at Fourth Street and Bill thick growth of aspens and firs as you wind around the Arizona, has a microwave radio installation which links asserted that "nowhere in the United States can [ the Williams Avenue (U.S. 66) in the town of Williams, con­ top of the cone and come out on top-and really on top! its mobile units, service trucks, construction units, and the traveler/ find a more widely expansive view than this tinue past the red sandstone Sante Fe dam and through The peak is a peak; there is scarcely enough room for like with headquarters unit. All radio installations are will afford." Coming from a man who had traveled and lovely Sante Fe Canyon. The road is good blacktop. You the equipment mounted there. The Forest Service lookout entirely automatic in operation and are controlled from seen as much as George Wharton James had, this was will be skirting the eastern base of the mountain, and you tower crowns the highest point. You may climb the open the offices of the Arizona State Highway Patrol in Wil­ really something. James went on to say: will be offered many views of the rugged shoulder. If the stairs zigzagging between the tower supports to enter the liams and from the offices of the State Highway Depart­ Imagine standing on a mountain top, a mile and three­ light is just right, the peak will stand out in three-dimen- quarters above sea level, and then looking out over a varied lookout cabin winded and windblown, but it is well worth ment south of Flagstaff. The Forest Service installation panorama, with practically unrestricted vision over a radius 1 George Wharton James, Arizona Tin Wonderland. Boston: The. the climb. The sensation is somewhat like that of being is a repeater which repeats any signal received on 38.78 of two hundred miles. It is bewildering in its stupendous Page Company, 1917, p. 380. suspended from a free balloon high in the air. Far, far Mc. and re-transmits it on 36.66 Mc. Without the height

PAGE THIRTY-FOUR • ARIZONA HIGHvVAYS • MARCH 1957 Skiing in winter Early winter snow sparkles in the sunlight.

and unexcelled line of sight coverage of Bill Williams expedition to California at the Colorado River to travel to Mountain, radio communication using the high frequen­ the Hopi Villages. On his way he entered Cataract Can­ cies now used would be extremely erratic and spotty. yon which is about seventy miles northwest of Bill Wil­ Another installation on the peak is a television anten­ liams Mountain. After emerging from the home of the na, booster, and conversion unit which picks up TV pro­ Havasupai, he must have come within sight at least of the grams from the Salt River Valley and brings them down peak. Cataract Creek has its beginnings ori the north side a cable to the town of Williams which otherwise would of Bill Williams Mountain. have television reception. From the time of Garces in 1 77 5 until the American not Bill W illiam s Mountain looks cool and s erene after an A pril storm in the high country. A wooden cross with a red flag is erected over a mountain men began their restless wanderings into the bench mark at the highest point of the peak. This marker, region, traffic was so light as to leave no record. William which serves as a triangulation station for the U. S. Coast Sherley Williams-Old Bill-was with an expedition into routes for wagon roads and railroads to California. came to the bed of a small stream (probably the upper and Geodetic Survey, can be seen from practically any the Gila Valley in 182 6. Part of this large group, w hich Captain Lorenzo Sitgreaves made the first of these reaches of H ell's Canyon, which flows into the V erde point within sight from the top. included James Ohio Pattie, trapped up the Verde River. government expeditions in 185 1 leading a p arty of Amer­ River), Antoine Leroux, the expedition's guide, told R. H . Today traffic flows by the base of the mountain in Richard Campbell led a pack train past the mountain a ican military m en chi efl y from the Corps of T opograph­ Kern, topographer with the surveyors, that he had met almost a solid stream on U.S. 66 and 89, and trains of the year later; and there is a rumor of Bill Williams' presence ical Engineers. T he Sitgreaves party passed around the Bill W illiams there in 18 37. W hen Kern later prepared Sante Fe Railway follow each other in close order on both in the Hopi Villages about the same time. No doubt at southern base of the mountain, camping two nights before tracks of the main line paralleling the highway, but in the least some of these trappers besides Campbell passed the 2 James R . Fuchs, A H istory of vVillicmzs, A rizona. Social Science leaving it. According to James R. Fuchs ::! it was at this early days traffic was rather light. Captain Pedro de Tovar mountain returning eastwards. In 1829 Ewing Young led Bulletin No. 23. T ucson, Arizona: U niversity of Arizona Press, time that the mountain was named. When the expedition of Coronado's expedition probably was the first white a party of trappers, which included Kit Carson, up the 1953, P· 14· man to see the mountain-and from a distance, too-when Verde River to its head. The party split up in the forest he led an expedition from Zuni seeking the Hopi Indian of Bill W illiams Mountain, part of the men turning south T he town of TVillia711s lies at the foot of Bill TVillia7Jls Mountain: villages in 1540. Cardenas, who was sent out to find the westward and the others turning eastward toward Taos. Colorado River, retraced Tovar's trail and reached the The latter group trod the slopes of the mountain shortly Grand Canyon, probably near Grand View Point, about after the division. fifty miles north of Williams. Between the years 1825 and 1841 Old Bill Williams Espejo in 1582 led an expedition into the region seek­ left his tracks in Northern Arizona on more than several ing mines. This party reached a river which may have occasions, but because of a tendency to travel alone, little been Sycamore Creek, which has its source near or on the is actually on record of his wanderings. T here is a report slopes of Bill Williams Mountain, and possibly followed of his having spent a winter on the slopes of Bill Williams down this stream to what must have been the Verde Mountain about 1833, and there is also a reference to his River. Some accounts place the mines on the Bill Williams presence on the mountain in 1837. There is a rumor of a - River, the upper reaches of which were sometimes con­ ruined log cabin somewhere on the side of the peak in fused with the upper reaches of the Verde. which the old mountain man spent a winter. The writer Don Juan de On.ate sent out an expedition under has not been successful in finding it, however. Captain Marcos Farfan which evidently passed to the Whatever traffic flowed past Bill Williams Mountain south of Bill Williams Mountain about the year 1598. in the next ten years left little record. Possibly Jacob On.ate followed Farfan's route in 1604 while on his way Hamblin may have passed on one of his trips to the Hopi to the Gulf of California. villages. After the discovery of gold in California in 1 848, In 177 5 Garces, the Franciscan Friar, left de Anza's the government began to send out expeditions seeking

PAGE THIRTY-SIX • ARIZONA 'HIGHWAYS ... MARCH 1957 the map, he attached Bill Williams' name to the mountain old Lamb trail, from Camp Clover Ranger Station to the to show his and Leroux's regard for the old trapper. top in 1909. During that year H. L. Benham and Willard Others passing near the mountain were Francois ( or Sevier, the original forest rangers for the district, used the Felix) Aubrey, Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, Lieutenant peak as a lookout, climbing a tree that still grows on the E. F. Beale, and Lieutenant Joseph C. Ives. Whipple, who summit to use as a lookout tower. The existing lookout headed a party traveling in a train of wagons, camped tower was packed up in sections on the backs of mules, close to the mountain; Aubrey drove a band of sheep as ,,·as the airplane beacon, w hich once blinked from the across the thirty-fifth parallel route while leading a group summit, and its power station. of sixty men from California to New l\'lexico in 1853. The greatest charm of Bill Williams Mountain is its Lieutenant Beale passed to the north of the mountain with wildness. Since most of it is inaccessible except to the his famous camels in 1857 and again in 1858, probably foot-climber, one may step out of civilization and see the watering these animals in Cataract Creek, w hich begins same ty pe of country that Old Bill Williams and his on the north slope of Bill Williams Mountain. The route cohorts saw if one is willing to travel the mountain on that Beale marked out has been used for almost one foot. Indian ruins are numerous on the lower slopes. Many hundred y ears and is essentially that which is now used by of these have never been touched by white men because the Santa Fe Raihvay and Highway 66. Lieutenant Ives, they are so well camouflaged that one can pass over them who explored the Colorado River in a steamboat in 1857, ,vithout recognizing them for w hat they are. One o ld camped at the base of the mountain after visiting Cataract timer has a story of a mine w hich he stumbled across once Canyon (Havasupai Canyon). Ives was very favo rably while hunting deer high on the upper slopes. The mine impressed with his campsite on Cataract Creek, very close had a fairly large pile of waste and other evidences of to \\'here the town of Williams is situated now. considerable work having been done. T he mine opening In 1863 members of the Walker Party, a strong was sealed with a huge slab of rock which had evidently organization of miners located near the present site of been put in place by means of cables running through iron Prescott, made one trip to the mountain but retreated after eyebolts forced into the cliff wall above the entrance. finding more Apache Indians than they cared for. As w ith Bill Williams' cabin, the writer has never been After the Civil W ar General W. J. Palmer laid out able to find this m ine; and the old-timer w ho tells the the route w hich the A tlantic and Pacifi c Railroad ( now storv has never been able to return to the mine, either. the Santa Fe) followed. Palmer followed approximately Without being too romantic, one can imagine Espejo the surveys of the , 8 5o's. From 1876 until the railroad sealing off the entrance in the sixteenth century, intending reached Williams in 1882, there were only a few isolated to return but never succeeding in doing so. settlers in the region, although Williams' post office was If you should decide to do a bit of exploring o n B ill established in 1881. Williams Mountain on foot and perhaps keep an eye open T he fi rst trail up Bill Williams Mountain was built for old cabins, Indian ruins, and mines, you might not by E sau Lamb in 1902. Lamb charged a small fee for find any of the three; but you would certainly fi nd some­ using his trail and rented horses for the climb. The United thing else that is becoming quite scarce and hard to find States Forest Service opened a trail, utilizing part of the nowadays: country that has not yet been spoiled by man.

A view of the wonderland of pines of Northern A rizona

M ountain M en of W illiams keep alive m em ory of Bill W illiams in annual trek to Phoenix rodeo.

PACE T HIRTY - EIG HT • AR I ZONA HTC I-I WA YS • .MARCH 1957 I KNEW A DAY Yours sincerely I knew a day that planned just what to do­ lt would begin with pinkest clouds, then change, By slow, but sure degree, to azure blue­ O'.'\T D ISPLAY I:'\ G l·.IC\1.-\:\'\'": OF CO:\'TFNT\ W's'T: CTC. Not counting on the winds that rearrange .. Than ks ro rhe generositv ()f friends, [ • .. J am a phorogr,1phc r and like vont' The best laid plans of mice, and men, ;md clays. ;1a \T been rc ,1 di11rr 1·0~11· " ·ond~rfuJ rnag,vinc contributor, C,irlos Llmcr. an amateur. I fin d Toward noon, escorted by a silken mist, p ho tograpll\' a 1110st s,nisf\·ing hobbv and f now for · 01·e r fi\ -~ i-cars. l l:11·ing· tra1·elcd in That split the cyclops sun to paling rays, feel 'I Ir. 1.1,ncr e,prcsscd the philosophv of A111cric1 1111 ·sc lf :is· :1 fornrer e;ch:111Q c stu­ A breeze became a wind that made a fist dent frnrn (~ crrn :117_1 ·. I feel 1·e 1· 1· plc,;sed to the camera e:-;cellently in your Feh rn,ir1· is - Of blackened clouds above the shadowed plain; sue. r\ . C. Holmes ha1T a collection of fine \\·este rn l:rndscapcs And. though the day held to a patch of sky Seattle. , vash . he re in rnv stud1·. .:-\s a geographer, t he in­ No bigger than a splattered window pane, terest for L111dsc11 1e and people is nw highest • . . Carlos Elmer rnav say he is just an It did admit its plans had gone awry; lic ld of " ·ork. :rnd 1·our 111ag·:vinc bec omes amateur photographer but udging by his In short, as days are known, it was a fizzle, :1 lc:1ding source of Ir. ' I work in your Feb. issue he's a top amateur About to lose ·its dignity and drizzle. I .ct 111c add tod:11 · a lirrlc picture " ·hich A nd I Jifed hi s article. It makes sense. R EEVE SPENCER KELLEY miQht slw\\· 1·ou ho \\· our Gcrnian chil dren i\ lrs. O p,1 ! 13nl\n1slcy Dallas. T e:,;a s THE LAND Of CROSSES This is the land of crosses, timbers . Your photographer did a splendid job Standing on brown churches for von \,·i th hi s article and pictures in vorn· Between flowering pines; FebruaJT issue. His rn o tours. on e in spring Rising above plazas of sand- and the other in aur umn . \\'Ct'C most inter­ Low with adobe houses- esti ng ro me. Some d:1_1·, and T hope not in Dividing the sun by four. the too dist:rnt future. our fomik. all of us c:1m er;1 enrhusiasts. \,·ill make both of those They are in every wild and feverent sky; tin) tours, and \IT hope ro follm1· :'l lr. Flmer step by step. A fin e feature all around. Cried out to when the stars and night S. T . S:1 bens Move, without end, to towering mountains; Bozem,111 , i\ lontana Needed when the earth becomes so big It nullifies the soul of doubtful existence. lo ok ,lt n iur line photograpln·. Rcgul:i rh· • Carlos Elmer in 011r Febmary isme 'lll ade REEVE SPENCER KELLEY h:11·c rhc best prims posted on th e ' ",di s· of cm cloq11e11t plea for p/.1otngra/1/.1 y as a /.iobhy rnr classroom at l(olilcn,. I lig·h and our stu­ and as one of t/.,e best ·,:,·avs to "get away COUNTRY CHURCH dents JOI e to Study them. ' frn'l/1 it all." 1f ' e osn!1'e m,r readers t/.iat they Dr. H an s Rose nberg \Vith folded hands the faithful folk, will (illd his tmtTs 'lllnst i11t c/'l'st i77g . H e's In love-worn pews of golden oak, Nassau / Lah n taken them se,'era/ times l.1i'lllself, a77d /.,e con­ Derghaus, Germany Await their pastor's private prayer. tends s0111 N /.iing 11cw cn'llles 11/1 euery trip. Granly he mounts the pulpit stair • Fo ndest greetings to Dr. l?nsn1berg and BOOKS O F T H E SOUT H W F.ST: And lo~ks benignly down among /.,is st11de11ts. 11Tay 071 r {)ag es always bri'llg •• . T found Dr. Poll'ell's article in your His Sunday flock, the old and young. fri 1: 11 dly 'llcws nj' A m erica t o 011r friends i11 Febnrnrv issu e, H r: art of t/.i e S mtt!n.ue.,:t, of Then falls a hush-expectant, still, n erll/(111)1. great interest. J ha\·e spent some t ime and ef­ Unmarked by cough or stir, until As if on silent, sacred cue 'vVA R"'I :\'G TO LTTTFRBUGS: forr collecting books pertaining to onr area and \,·ill certainlv use D r. Powe ll 's article as The morning sun breaks softly through ... A ftcr a long and plc :1 sant automobile a guide in the f~iture. Sa muel Y . Xonos The old stained glass, to light the \\/ ore! journc_1· through \·our st:ltc I h:ffC on lv one Tucson, Ar izona Through which the Shepherd leads His herd. co11q1l ain t to nrnk c. C:111 't S<>11 1et hing be done BETTY ISLER to do ,1 \\ ·:11 · \\ ·ith Ii tte rlrngs? I 11 pbces there .. . lt is refreshing, indeed. in t hi s age of was so much deb ris scattered al()ng rhe roads blatant tele\·ision to' find someone " ·h<; still AT NIGHT that the l,eautiful scenerv suffere(I. reads :ind lm·cs b() oks. f refer to Lawrence At night • Adam H. Hodgson Clark Po\\·cll and his article in vour Febru­ Above the reach Clcnbnd, Ohi'i:i ary magazin e. 1\ lodern parenrs a1:e concerned Of desert farness, God \\·ith "\N hy Johnn ie Can't Read." No won-­ Fills all the empty space among 6l ATi~.0'! 1a bas declared ·war rm tbe litterbug, der. You can't ptY the litrle jerk away from The stars. that careless motorist w/.,o t/Joug/.11/essly tccvee! Gi\·es us more of Dr. Powell. GRACE BARKER \VILSON d1m1/JS tras/.1 and debris along our /.iiglnvays. M rs. A . D . Addington 071r 22nd Legislat!!re passe d a bill 11 1akiJ1g it Wilmington, Delaware SIL VERMAKER a misde'lll eannr to dump tras/.1 011 or alo'llg our /.iigl.1-m1_1,s al!d set stiff pc11a!ties for so do­ • Dr. Powell 'will be wit/., 11 s again soon. In The wind is a N:ivajo silversmith in!!, . Litterbugs are expemhN, too. It is esti­ bis next appeara11ce he'll discuss the life and Shaping his cloud silver into frames :Pate.f t /.,e Ari-~m1a T-figlnvay Departm ellt works of the greatest Texan of 'em al! -· For turquoise of the sky. s:Jent ';250,000 !cm year 011 litter clean-up. ]. Frn11k Dobie. HELEN INGRAHAM

DACK COVER OPPOSITE PAGE "GRAND CANYON FROM /\'10RAN POINT"-DY ESTHER "THE COLORED SPIRES OF BRYCE CANYON"-BY JOSEF HENDERSON. The normal tendency of photographers is to photo­ MUENCH. In Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah. Taken with a . graph Grand Canyon during storms, sunsets and special effects and Speed Graphic camera, 6" Ektar lens on 4x5 Ektachrome film. Ex­ the object of this picture was to show the canyon on just a plain posure: , / 5th second at f.22. Late one afternoon as the photographer bright morning when the colors were vivid but skies were placid hiked along Sunrise Point Trail, this colorful view opened, full of re­ above. 5x7 Deardorff View Camera, Ektachrome film, Goerz Dagor flected light and weird forms. Bryce is another National Park which lens, 1 / 10th at f.22. The photograph shows Grand Canyon is truly a travelers reach via "89." The lodge at Bryce is operated by the Utah shrine of scenic beauty in all moods and weather. Parks Company.

PAGE J0 0RTY • ARIZONA HIGHWAYS • MARCH 1957