Sc:~r1ic: VOL. XXXIII NO. 3 MARCH 1957 RAYMOND CARLSON, Editor U. S. Highway 89, Arizona's main artery of north­ GFORGE M. AV EY, Art Editor south trayel, is one of the most scenic of all 0~1r roads. Its JAJ\LCS E. STEVENS, Business Manager some 600 miles through the state offer a Yarietv of eleva­ LEGEND tion, terrain and scenic interest. Each mile unfoldi1we:, be- "89" ENT ERl'-'G HousEROCK VALLEY FRONT COVER fore the traveler is an interesting mile and different from ~ . R .,, y MANLEY'S PHOTOGRAPH SHOWS the one preceding. "89" brings :--·ou into the state at GLORIOUS NORTHERN ARIZONA VISTA. Fredonia. It leaves the state at Nogales. As eYen the most ARIZONA S CRAPBOOK . 2 S:-.:11PSHOTS OF SCEN IC INTEREST casual glance at a map ·will reveal, "89'' cuts right through ALO ~G "89," BORDER TO BORD ER . the heart of Arizona and covers a lot of interesting· coun­ PIPE SPRI NG NATIONAL MoNUJVIENT 4 try between Utah and J\1e.\'ico. The Strip, the cool J(aibab, \VF. PAY A VISIT TO HISTORIC the s,1 ·eeping panorama of Houserock Valley, Vermilion SHR INE GLORIFYING OUR PIONEERS. and Echo Cliffs, the lofty forested reg·ion ~f San Fran­ IO \VE TAKE A TRIP ON A HIGHWAY cisco Peaks, the high pla~eau countr:v ~bet\\·een vVillia1m OF INTE RNAT IONAL GRANDEUR. and Prescott, or by Alternate "89" Oak Creek and the OLD BrLL WrLLTAJVrs' FAVORITE MouNTAIN 34 Verde Va llev, the desert and then the historic Santa Cruz D ESC RIPTIO N OF A MOUNTAIN THAT Vallev- all of these and more, too, make up the travel JS LA NDM ARK IN NORTHERN ARIZONA. treasury we call "89." ERNEST W. McFARLAND Governor of Arizona ARIZONA HIGHWAY COMMISSION The Highway is our main subject this issue and our Frank E. Moore, Chairman . Douglas genial host is Charles Franklin Parker of Prescott. He Grover J. Duff, Vice Chairman . Tucson brieAy discusses this international highway from Alaska \Vrn. P. Copple, iVIember . Yuma James R. Heron, Member . Globe to Guatemala and then conducts us on a leisurely but Frank L. Christensen, Member . Flagstaff detailed journey 01-er the road within our state·. Mr. \ Vm. E . \Villey, State H wy. Engineer Phoenix Parker is a competent and thor0twh uuide and doesn't let Justin Herman, Secretary . Phoenix b t, Ronald M. Bond, Special Counsel . Phoenix 1.1s miss a single thing of interest as we tranl with him border to border on "89." AmzoNA HIGHW AYS is published monthly by the Arizona Highway D epartment a few miles north of the confluence of the Gila and Sa lt in Arizona. Address: ARIZONA HIGHWAYS, Phoenix, Arizona. In our journey along this fascinating highway this $:; .50 per year in U .S. and possessions; $4.50 elsewhere; 35 cents month, \\·e spend a few enjoyable hours at two places by each. Entered as second-class matter Nov. 5, 1941 at Post Office in t he side of the road. \Ve visit Pipe Spring National 1\i[onn­ Phoenix, under Act of March 3, 1879. Copyrighted, 1957, by ~rizona Highway Department. ment, near Fredonia, and also take a trip to the top of Bill vVilliarns Mountain, historic landmark near \Villiams, Allow five weeks for change of addresses. Be sure to send m These are just two of the many places ,1 hich "89" invites the old as well as the new address. us to see and enjoy. F RONT COVER "89" ENTERING HOUSEROCK VALLEY"-BY RAY MAN­ LEY. This view of U.S. Highway S-9 was taken as it descends the We wish you pleasant reading and pleasant traveling" plateau east of Jacob Lake and the north entrance to Grand Can­ R.C yon, leaving the Vermilion cliff area north and west of the Colo­ rado River. 5x7 Anscochrome film, 1/25th sec. f22, 12-inch Com­ mercial Ektar lens, SX7 Deardorff Camera. The highway enters COLOR CLASSICS FROM ARIZONA HIGHWAYS Arizona near Fredonia, crosses part of the Arizona Strip and then climbs into the rich forest of the Kaibab. Going south through the This Issue forest one comes upon this scene showing "89" plunging into spa­ cious Houserock Valley. Further south arc the San Francisco Peaks 35 mm. slides in 2" mounts, 1 to 15 slides, 40¢ each; 16 to 49 slides, 35 </: each; 50 or more, 3 for $1 .oo. and Flagstaff. OPPOSITE PAGE R-8 "89" entering Houserock Valley, Cover 1; Z-2 Opuntia Cacti "OPUNTIA CACTUS AND ZION NATIONAL PARK"-BY and Zion National Park, Cover 2; BC-5 The Colored Spires of JOSEF MUENCH. Taken with a Speed Graphic camera-6" Bryce Canyon, Cover 3; GC-46 Grand Canyon from i'vloran Point. Tessar lens on 4x5 daylight Ektachrome film. Exposure: 1/ 2 sec­ Cover 4; TM-2 Tumacacori-Reminder of Yesterday, p. 17; SF-8 ond at f.32 with a C-15 filter. This deep canyon is even more im­ San Francisco Peaks, Arizona, p. 18 ; IN-49 Navajo Encampment posing when seen from above. One spring afternoon the photog­ near "89," p. 18; N 1\tl-9 Clouds over Sunset Crater, p. 19; R-<;, rnpher had followed the East Rim Trail to the lofty overlook and Navajo Bridge over the Colorado, p. 19; SX-15 The Green Fields found a group of yellow Opuntias like a bouquet pinned to the of San Xavier, center spread; DS-47 Land of the Giant Cactus, p. throat of the chasm. Zion National Park is in Southern Utah and 22; R-w "89" through Granite Dells, p. 22; SC-6 Spring Freshet­ is one of many National Park aceas reached by U.S. 89. Sabino Canyon, p. 23; OC-26 Eternal \Vaters of Oak Creek, p. 24. PAGE ONE • ARIZONA HIGIHV AYS • MARCH H)57 A PIONEER HERITAGE BY WILLIS PETERSON PHOTOGRAPHS BY T HE AU T HOR The pioneer fort at Pipe Spring National Monument it the Yellow Rock Water, latter day Paiutes frequented on the Arizona-Utah border stands today a s it did in the t he Spring during their travels w hile trading with N avajo West's early, turbulent years, virtually unchanged by and Moqui (now called H opi) Indians living across the time. Colorado River. Though its historical anecdotes read like script of a Aside from i ts ideal location, this freshet of pure western thriller, it is perhaps, least frequented of all South­ water was the only spring of any size in the w hole Strip. west parks. Shunted from main highways, Pipe Spring It was as important a spot to the Indians as it was later basks serenely, s nuggling tightly against protective b ut­ to become to the pioneers. tresses of the Vermilion Cliffs. In 1776 a Spanish priest from Santa F e, Father Esca­ From Navajo Bridge northward, these majestic Cliffs lante, forded at the Ute Crossing and trekked through are constant companions of travelers on U.S. 89 leading the S trip. He is without doubt the first w hite man to toward Pipe Spring. Through H ouse Rock V alley, and enter t his region. T hough there is no direct mention of into the Arizona Strip, where the Monument lies, the Yellow Rock W ater in Escalante's journal, he does de­ road is continually twisted by each w him of their gigantic scribe making a d ry camp at Mt. T rumbull, 60 miles facades. southwest of Pipe S pring. It is hardly conceivable that . Swinging over the Kaibab U pwarp, the motorist he d id not stop at the Spring during the following days, views awesome escarpments as they reach to the north, especially since Indian guides escorted h im. then sweep w est and south in a huge horseshoe. Ever­ T he year 18 58 is the next important year in Pipe changing hues, forming a stage backdrop, with no two Spring history. T his marked white man's second pro­ moments alike lure the traveler o n. Again, in t he maj esty longed penetration i nto the Arizona Strip wilderness, and of their shadows, the visitor fi nally emerges in the Ari­ the christening of the Spring on October 30th of that year. zona Strip territory. At the direction of President Brigham Young in Salt As the Strip country unfolds, one cruises along try­ Lake City, eleven .men were chosen to scout and make ing to visualize how those hardy pioneer men and women friendly overtures to the Paiute and N avajo Indians as settled this wild terrain. T he chasm of the indomitable w ell as t he H opis. Aside from fostering good will, t he Colorado bars entrance to the south and east. Broken group w as also charged to ascertain if t his region would mountains loom up to the west. The Vermilion Cliffs be suitable for colonization. form an almost impregnable chain of precipices extending Jacob H amblin, know n as the missionary to the north and south. Lamanites (Indians) because of his fair dealings and their These barriers have permitted little change since the trust in him, was appointed leader. T he others included Strip was a frontier. No large irrigation projects have Jacob's brothers, Frederick and W illiam; Samuel Knight, inundated the earth's contours. T he usual maze of high­ Benjamin Knell, Ira H atch, Andrew G ibbons, Dudley ways are lacking, much to the relief of many travelers. Leavitt, Thomas Leavitt, Ammon Tenny (interpreter), City skylines h aven't crept up to d isturb peaceful hori­ James Durias Davis, a nd Naraguts, their Paiute guide.