WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 1
Wrangell St. Elias News
“Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty” Volume Fifteen Issue Three May & June 2006 Two Dollars A truly Alaskan Wedding!
ands down, the wedding of Tischar- ia Buckingham and Joshua Hale Hwas the most beautiful and mean- ingful I have ever witnessed. It was held on March 11th, an outdoor wedding, on a glori- ous, brilliant Alaskan day, everything clean and white from a recent snowfall, surrounded by the Talkeetna and Chugach Mountains, and everyone bundled in their arctic gear against the 5 degree cold. Everyone but the Buckinghams and Hales. . . The wedding took place on the Bucking- ham's porch with Tischaria’s father Jim pre- siding. His wife Martha later quipped that they shouldn't have let him wear a sweater as he warmed to the subject of grace and had quite a lot to say about it. Meanwhile, the rest of the family was dressed in matching burgun- dy and black outfits and the effect would have been spoiled by additional outer wear. Photos courtesy Ray Kreig (continued on page 6) Bride and groom depart on white horse following festivities.
Backrow: Maryanna*, Elishaba, Lolly*, Jerusalem, Christina*, Hosanna, Rose, Jim* with little Joshua*, Tischaria* & Joshua, Israel, James*, Moses (David's forehead behind Moses), Jonathan*, Joseph. Front row: Psalms, Bethlehem, Lydia*, Lamb, Jonathan, Daniel*, Abraham, Noah, Job. Missing: Martha* and David. * signifies Buckingham, otherwise Hale. PAGE 2 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 A note from the publisher
I want to thank Keith and Lau- shortly before his death on April 3rd. couldn’t help but wonder rie Rowland for loaning me a copy He sounded optimistic about his how I started A note from of their “Spring Break” notes so physical condition and seemed very the publisher a year ago. that I could use their information to pleased to see those of us who were I Curiosity got the best of write an item on their family. Last able to meet with him in his home me. Opening up the hard-bound year you may recall that Laurie at Copper Center. I know I can book of WSEN’s for 2005 (a yearly wrote an adventure packed story on speak for the others as well as my- gift from subscriber and friend, Ted their spring break 2005. She had self, that we all felt the same way. Cebula) to the May/June issue, I hoped to have another such story Of all the subjects we touched on read: Spring break-up in McCarthy but her schedule just didn’t allow that day, one thing stands out in my was short and (fairly) sweet, mean- that to happen in time for this is- mind that I treasure now more than ing the slush, water holes, and mud sue. If you want to hear more de- ever. He stressed the fact that we did not last long. Rick even man- tails of their excursions, you will as residents within the park bound- aged to till our garden end of April have to “catch up” with the Row- aries were welcome and very much —a sure sign break-up has run its lands. I warn you; it may not be that needed. Needless to say, that came course. easy to do! as such a healing balm. I feel quite sure Jed would want me to pass that Today, April 25th, we still have Long-time subscriber and local nearly 15 inches of snow. As I look land owner, Trig Trigiano, submit- on to all of you who call this out my office window, Rick cannot ted a joke which we included on nation’s largest national park even see the dirt that makes up our page 23. Trig is always ready for a “home.” garden plot, let alone till it. The good laugh and loves to share the I was just informed that the slush and water holes are still here. wealth of his merriment. Thanks, postal service has made some fur- As for the mud... it hasn’t even real- Trig, for reminding us of the scrip- ther changes in the manner in ly begun to show. Amazing! Oh, ture, “A merry heart does good, like which we package and mail periodi- well, this is where hope comes in. medicine...” cals such as WSEN. With the tre- Springtime always arrives; it’s just a More thanks to Jay Bitely who mendous help of Postmaster Terry bit on the late side this year. most McCarthyites remember well Kaiser of Glennallen, I hope your Rick and I love to publish good for writing us such an interesting May/June WSEN will find its way to news. Our cover story, as seen letter of his travels to East Africa. your homes without a hitch. I am through the eyes of Lee Ann Ger- (Page 35) It is always interesting to fixin’ to learn something new once hart, is truly a beautiful story. Many see where folks travel when they again! Thank you, readers, for your of you have asked us to keep you in aren’t in McCarthy! patience. touch with the Hale ( Pilgrim) fami- On a sad note, you will learn WSEN welcomes aboard the fol- ly. This family has and is still under- (page 16) of the passing away of Jed lowing subscribers: James Barnes, going many changes in their lives. Davis, superintendent of Wrangell- AK; Roger Schnittjer, IA; Dona Most of those changes are good for St. Elias National Park, who many of Pfaff, AK; Ted Winters, MN; William all concerned. Lee Ann shares with us came to appreciate greatly. On Buck, AK; Lars and Susan Iversen, us one of those changes. March 22 Rick and I had the honor AE; Jerry Baxter, IN. of attending a meeting with Jed
Wrangell St. Elias News (USPS 011301) VOL. Fifteen, Issue Three, May & June 2006. Published every two months at McCarthy, Alaska. McCarthy, PO Box MXY, Glennallen, AK 99588-8998. Phone (907) 554-4454. FAX (907) 554-4494 E-mail: [email protected] “Copyright © 2006 by Wrangell St. Elias News. No part of this publication may be reproduced by any means without the express permission of the publishers.” Contributors to this issue: Peggy Guntis, Susan Smith, George Cebula, Lee Ann Gerhart, Meg Hunt, Kelsey Smith, Kar- en Harvey, Don Welty and Ned Rozell. Subscription price is $11 for one year in the USA. Canada $12.50. Other countries $20. Advertising rates upon request. Deadline for publication in next issue is June 15. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT GLENNALLEN, AK. 99588. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Wrangell St. Elias News, McCarthy #42, PO Box MXY, Glennallen AK 99588-8998. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 3 Items of Interest
Sarah and René may have Harbor arrived on schedule. The Dave Hollis: Dave must be a wanted to tag along but I had the ladies in town enjoy seeing great first name because our feeling they weren’t invited. Actu- Roger’s wife, Tammy, show up town has more than a few Daves. ally, to be fair to all concerned, because she always brings a fun Perhaps that is why Dave H. Sarah, 21, will be finishing her supply of Mary Kay products with picked up the nickname “Hollis.” studies and acquiring her associ- her. Let’s see... the local Row- He just recently returned from ate degree at Fairbanks around lands add up to 7, the Dutch Har- his Winter 2005-2006 adventures May 9th. She will soon be winging bor Rowlands increase that total and is getting settled back into her way south to Colorado where to 14. Then there is Keith’s his summer quarters just down she will work at Camp Red Cloud sister’s son, Keithy from Oregon, the road from Rick and me. I’ll as a wrangler. who joins his Alaskan cousins for let Hollis tell you what he’s been René, who just recently what Laurie describes as “Mega- up to in his own words: turned 18, is eagerly (I think!) Holiday.” “I spent three months on the working on graduating from high With all their grandkids in big island of Hawaii. I was having school. Lynn says the tentative town, the elder Rowlands, Ken fun and harvesting Kona coffee. date for her graduation ceremony and Nancy of Palmer, were right Then I spent about 2 months in is June 10. Lynn’s folks, John and on time for the March festivities, Anchorage hanging out with Nancy Burtch of Xenia, Ohio, are too. friends. I returned home to Mc- hoping to make the trip up for The Rowland clan swelled Carthy in early March. I’m living this grand occasion. when Laurie’s brother, Dave Per- on my land, doing chores, and While her folks were gone, son, and his family arrived from getting ready for work to start up René participated in a Chugach Fairbanks. Close friends of the in Kennecott mid-May. I’m look- School District spring celebra- Persons and Rowlands, Jay and ing forward to “summer camp tion held in Whittier. She, along Kim Williams and two children, 2006” —my eleventh here. I’ll be with two other students, were followed suit and arrived with busy biking and hiking this won- part of a leadership group in snowmachines in tow. Another derful wilderness area...Happy charge of providing fun activities family of four, the Randby’s, Trails!” for the 89 kids in attendance. joined the entourage. Keith puts Don, Lynn, René and Sarah According to Lynn, it was a great it this way, “With nearly a dozen Welty: Hawaii must be THE state time for students in the Prince Tundra snowmachines and their this year for winter travel. At William Sound and Chugach’s rotating staff of young operators least it has proved popular extension schools to get togeth- diligently attempting to pack among local McCarthyites. Don er, have fun and attend special down every square inch of snow and Lynn just returned from a classes. Other McCarthy kids who in the valley, McCarthy was no 10-day excursion to the island of attended the festivities were Tes- longer a sleepy, idyllic winter wil- Kauai. As a surprise and in cele- sa Bay, Matthew and Robert Shid- derness town.” bration of their 25th wedding an- ner. Prior to his family’s arrival, niversary, members of their The McCarthy (and beyond) Keith began preparing for an family presented them with the Rowland family: The majority of overnighter “big guys” trip to the April trip. They both are sporting the Rowlands have serious roots Bremner Country. A week earlier sun tans and say they had “a won- in McCarthy but, for the most Keith, and neighbor Don Welty, derful time and enjoyed being part, I lean towards writing about scouted the desired route from together.” Kayaking, hiking, the Keith Rowland family. After the air in Don’s Super Cub. With snorkeling and taking in the sites all, they are the ones I see on a everyone accounted for, the Big of the island provided them with regular basis. However, come Guys’ trip was on. The day lasting memories. Even a bona spring break, the local popula- dawned bright and clear. It was fide luau was on the list of those tion of Rowlands more than dou- only -20 F., says Keith! Eight guys fun things they did “together.” bles in size. Keith’s brother, headed out on their snowma- Roger, and his family from Dutch chines with their destination a PAGE 4 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006
Park Service cabin (once an old were obviously awake from their way mid-June. Anna tells me they mining bunkhouse) at the aban- long winter sleep. Tim has seen will spend some time in McCa- doned Bremner Mines in the the bear tracks to back up his rthy, but several out-of-town ex- Chugach Mountains south of Mc- yearly warning. cursions are being planned. This Carthy. They arrived safely with With the snow cover still with is a very special occasion for the time to spare —time for doing us, Tim is taking advantage of Wallins, being together as a fami- what they came to do — the conditions by stocking up on ly and further exploring our fine snowmachining up every valley his winter firewood supply. He is state. Scott and Salley are not they could find. giving himself another 2 or 3 newcomers to our area but we Some of the younger boys (14 weeks of good traveling. Thanks are looking forward to meeting and younger) did their own over- for the news from up your way, Joey for the first time. night trip to the May creek park Tim, but for some reason I’m not George Cebula: This month service cabin. The word is they that excited with it! has been a busy one for George had a grand old time without Jim Kreblin: Another neigh- and dog Sophie (who manages to their parent’s oversight. bor, 15 miles down the road, is supervise George’s activities A Rowland family overnight Jim Kreblin who lives on the quite well). Since our last issue, trip took them to the Peavine banks of Long Lake. I talked to George and John Adams, owner cabin up Chitistone River. Al- him the other day to see what of McCarthy Building Services, though I have never been there, else was new besides his fishing have constructed a new 12' x 16' Rowlands say the large cabin excursions with Rick. He says storage building. I’m sure Sophie comes outfitted with a stove that time is running out for such would like to think it was built easily heats it, and that it sleeps things. With his summer work for her own private quarters, but large crowds comfortably. just 4 weeks away, he is busy George has other thoughts in Keith, Roger, Tammy, Kaleb hauling in that firewood (“top of mind. It will house his snowma- and Carl Gressel snowmachined the to-do list”) while it is still chine and 4 wheeler and, I imag- up to the head of Chitistone Gla- easy (and safe) to get around on ine anything else that will fit cier at the base of the Grand Par- the ice. In the meantime, he says nicely in the new building. A job apet (12,000 ft.). Ken and he is still “waiting for spring” to well done and a great addition to grandson, David, snowmachined spring forth. We’re waiting, too, George’s homestead. to the Glacier Creek strip and Jim! I don’t have to tell you that Welcome to Matt Mawson: A reminenced about the good days it is April 21st and we still have 18 new neighbor to the west side is when Ken used to guide big game inches of snow on the ground! Matt Mawson. He is not really a hunters there on horseback. In Anna Wallin: Anna is staying new face to the area but has visit- fact, it was Ken’s employment as plenty busy with her winter job at ed McCarthy off and on for the a guide in the Chitistone valley the Rowland’s home school. With last several years. Matt purchased that introduced the Rowland fam- all 5 Rowland young folks in property down the driveway from ily to McCarthy and the surround- school now, Laurie needs all the George. ing Wrangell St. Elias Mountains. help she can get. This is where Since his arrival this month, “We’ve been intrigued with the Anna comes in. Her winter vehi- Matt has acquired winter con- area ever since,” said Laurie. cle —the Arctic Cat BearCat struction work with Jeremy Eventually, spring break snowmachine that she purchased Keller and Andy Shidner. He is came to an end for the Rowland from Ed LaChapelle —manages planning to call McCarthy home family. It was time to return to to transport her quite well to the and eventually build a cabin on the school books and the busi- top of the steep hill where the his property. ness at hand. Rowland home is located. We want to say, “Welcome, Tim Mischel: The phone rang This summer is going to be Matt to the neighborhood and yesterday and it was “Angle Sta- an exciting one that Anna is al- our town!” tion Tim.” He was giving us folks ready looking forward to. Her Dorothy Adler, Kim Young down here in the valley a “heads- folks, Salley and Scott Wallin of and Stefanie Kerr: These three up.” He said to be on the lookout Tucson, AZ. and her brother Jo- adventuresome young ladies are for the usual spring bears who ey, are making plans to head this up to something good. They are WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 5 eagerly preparing for a mountain We pray for a safe ascent, de- thoroughly enjoyed our daily climbing expedition to happen scent and return home for these break! Much appreciation to the any day now. Their goal is Mt. courageous young ladies. By the fine young folks who so graciously Blackburn —to be exact, the NW way, Dorothy says to be on the worked hard to complete each ridge, says Dorothy. The ladies lookout for a story when they re- test. I must admit I was glad they expect to be gone 2-3 weeks. I’m turn. were the students and I was the sure they have spent a great deal McCarthy area students take proctor! more time just getting ready for tests: The Chugach and Galena Fran Gagnon update: For the climb. Stefanie purchased a school districts teamed up again those of our readers who desire food dehydrator, and because she this year to provide their McCa- an update on Fran, I include a was in Anchorage this winter, she rthy area students with a testing letter written by her daughter took advantage of the time and site—the McCarthy-Kennicott Linda, written March 29th. accessibility of fruits and vegeta- Community Church—and proctor Dear Friends and Family, — bles to freeze-dry and package (Bonnie Kenyon) and, of course, Here comes Fran! Yes, she is up them for the long haul. those yearly tests in Reading, and walking around a little. I Dorothy drove into town from Writing and Math. Cynthia Shid- think the most steps she has tak- her cabin in McCarthy to give ner, Chugach’s certified teacher, en have been around 100. She Kim and Stefanie a hand and was called to Valdez to adminis- tires quickly but “keeps on truck- bring the young ladies back to ter tests so I was on my own this in’!” Yesterday the respiratory our area. They plan on flying out year. I consider it quite an honor therapist installed a device in her with Gary Green of McCarthy Air and found each of the local stu- trach’ that allows her to speak. any time now (today is April 24). dents a joy to be around. I’m sure The first words she said were to Gary plans on flying them to the their parents will be glad to hear thank him for his kind care of 7,000 ft. elevation of the Nabesna how well behaved each and every- her. She is breathing 100% on her Glacier. one was! own now and they will probably When I talked to Dorothy, The students came by snow- remove the tracheotomy some Kim and Stefanie yesterday, I machines or 4-wheelers. Kelsey time this weekend. She will then quizzed them about the food por- Smith and Tessa Bay came from be tested for her swallowing re- tion of their gear and discovered the Nizina area and represented flex to see if she can start eating that “chocolate” was one of the the 7th grade. This was Kaylin some soft foods. When that hap- major items. Now I could handle Moffit’s first year to be a part of pens, they will remove the stom- that part of the adventure, I the testing program. He is in the ach feeding tube that she has had thought. I asked Stefanie if she 3rd grade and was an immense for the past three months. I am has ever tired of chocolate seeing help to me, always arriving early filled with hope that she will re- that it is a large part of her diet, and helping me pass out the turn home to us soon. We took especially during these times of freshly-sharpened pencils and her for a spin around the block in her life. Actually, she commented erasers. David Rowland and Mat- her wheelchair yesterday after- that she has overdone it and thew Shidner both participated in noon. That was her first time out thought she would never eat it the 6th grade tests. Hannah and in the fresh air since she got sick. again. However, she assured me Daniel Rowland made a grand She enjoyed it greatly. that the condition did not last showing for 5th grade and Kaleb Kudos to all of you who have long. That was comforting to Rowland was our oldest student, kept in touch with cards and let- hear. testing for the 8th grade. ters, prayers and hopes, get well The other part I wasn’t so The testing dates were April wishes and such. You have the sure about is the 70 lb. packs 4-6 this year. The weather cooper- power and she is living proof! each girl will be wearing! I guess ated and travel conditions were Thank you for your kind compas- I’ll stay home for this one but, excellent. sion. Perhaps the next letter to just maybe they will have some of I want to thank Cynthia and you will be composed by Fran. that chocolate left over and be the Chugach School District for more-than-ready to unload it on the wonderful snacks they provid- someone. ed. Both students and proctor PAGE 6 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 A truly Alaskan wedding!
(continued from page 1) The thirteen Buckingham/ Hale God forbids or if told to forebear Jim shared with us that Joshua women and girls were on the left from doing something that God and Tischaria's relationships started side of the porch, along with the commands. In all other things, she on the clear understanding that this youngest boys in their mothers' is to obey. In that way, Joshua was God's will, and that He had put laps, and the eleven men and His love in each of their hearts boys stood on the right. During for the other. They are purposed Grandmother’s Chicken Salad the first half hour, while Jim to be clean and pure before God spoke to us clearly, plainly, Grandmother Mary Sweatte and man, and desired that this be beautifully about God's grace, 2 cans chicken, chopped expressed as clearly as possible the bride and groom were ab- 6 eggs, boiled and finely grated before marriage through no phys- sent. 1 cup cracker barrel white cheese, finely ical contact. He then placed Then suddenly, a trumpet grated Tischaria's hand in Joshua's, their blast and Joshua came gallop- green onion scallions, finely chopped first touch witnessed by us all. ing out of the woods on horse- 1—2 stalks celery, finely chopped We all joined in singing Amazing back towards the cabin, looking ½ cup sweet pickle relish, drained Grace. There was not a dry eye in dashing in an ivory shirt and pecans, toasted and finely chopped the great out of doors. sheepskin vest. The bride, curry, just a sprinkle The porch was quickly trans- dressed in a beautiful ivory onion powder formed into a wedding banquet, gown, rushed out of the house garlic powder tables filled with all sorts of towards him and all joined her pepper homemade delicacies—moose to meet the bridegroom. The ½ cup mayonnaise stew, freshly baked rolls and couple was escorted to the cen- salt buns, Grandma Sweatte's Chick- ter of the porch under a beauti- Mix together. This is not an exact rec- en Salad, and the Hale's famous ful rose-bedecked archway and ipe, so you will just have to do it to taste fudge. After a couple of hours of all resumed their places. Jim and consistency. It is supposed to have a feasting and merriment, the continued the ceremony. light taste… not real spicy. You can eat it bride and groom were ready to Jim emphasized the holi- as a dip with crackers, chips, or vegeta- depart. ness of this union, their hearts bles, or on bread as a sandwich. To make About three hundred guests knit together by God for a pur- it pretty when you serve it, you can gar- lined either side of the lane and pose. Jim told Joshua that as nish it with a little paprika. gathered snowballs to throw at husband, he was to love Tischa- (courtesy Martha Buckingham) the new couple. Joshua mounted ria as Christ loved the church, his trusty stead, Reuben, and giving everyday examples like Tischaria hopped on with him keeping wood in the fireplace, and away they rode into the sun- tenderly caring for his bride. Then set. It was awesome! A truly Alaskan he spoke to Tischaria about her role would become the leader that God wedding that Joshua and Tischaria’s as wife, that she was to obey her would have him to be. Their roles grandchildren will be telling their husband in all circumstances except did not include conforming the oth- grandchildren about. two—if asked to do something that er to Christ's image—God would take care of that himself. The McCarthy Centennial Project
located in McCarthy, Alaska. In building (and potential outdoor ex- he McCarthy Centennial 2005 the Museum completed resto- hibit space) was completed in late TProject is a series of ration of the roof and foundation of September of this year. Our 2006 events and exhibits cele- the Railway Depot Building celebration of 100 years of industry brating McCarthy’s first 100 years of (McCarthy Station), where the Mu- and community inside what is now history; it is sponsored by the McCa- seum houses its collections of his- America’s largest National Park in- rthy-Kennicott Historical Museum toric artifacts and ephemera. A new cludes many humanities-based (MKHM), a non-profit organization deck giving wheelchair access to the WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 7 events during the 2006 summer sea- • A 20 minute video Documenta- • The wonderful 4th of July fami- son in McCarthy. ry created by KTUU Channel 2 ly games that everyone enjoys Several organizations have in Anchorage. • An Auction of great items to agreed to work with our Museum, • The Photographic artwork of 3 benefit McCarthy Area non- including The Museum of Alaska National Geographic Photogra- profit organizations Transportation & Industry (MATI), phers: Franz Lanting, George • A visit from the Alaska Auto- National Park Service (NPS), and Herbin and George Mobley. All Mushers with at least 6 fully several sponsorship companies, and three of these photographers restored historic vehicles. of course many of the local area have done photographic • The Museum of Alaska Trans- businesses. spreads of WRST in National portation & Industry will be All Summer Long in the Car- Geographic Magazine over the loaning 3 fully restored historic riage Shed across from the McCa- years. George Herbin and vehicles from McCarthy — rthy Lodge: George Mobley will be in McCa- Both historic auto displays will • The McCarthy Clothes-Line rthy later in July. be in downtown McCarthy from Show - Do you have a great Our 5th annual FOURTH OF July 2nd, to July 5th. And of photo, poem or other artwork JULY - HISTORY WEEKEND Cele- course all these vehicles will be that expresses your love for in the famous McCarthy 4th of McCarthy and the history of July Parade! this town? Bring your favorite Much of the Museum’s restora- photo or other art work to our tions will be completed in the early “Clothes Line Show.” Starting part of the season and we invite all Memorial Day Weekend, the our friends to come by and say hello show will evolve over the sum- and visit McCarthy’s own historic mer as residents and visitors Museum! hang their art on the “clothes For further information contact: line” creating a unique expres- Neil Darish sion of the relationship people have with the town and the ar- 1-907-554-4402 ea known as America’s Moun- bration will include: McCarthy Centennial Project Coor- tain Kingdom. • Mark Kirschoff, author of His- dinator The newly-opened McCarthy toric McCarthy, the Town That Board member, McCarthy-Kennicott Mercantile will display: Copper Built will be giving a Historical Museum presentation on McCarthy’s Managing Partner, McCarthy history at the McCarthy Lodge. Ventures LLC NPS Access Guide Released for Public Comment
park units regarding adequate and NPS, 240 W. 5th Avenue, Anchorage, n March 27, the Alaska feasible access to their property. AK 99501 or by contacting the Su- ORegion of the National Public meetings about the ac- perintendent of Wrangell-St. Elias Park Service released cess guide will be held in McCarthy National Park and Preserve at 822- the second draft of “A User's Guide at noon on May 3 in the Community 5234. Your comments must be re- to Accessing Inholdings in a Nation- Church, in Slana at 6:30 p.m. on ceived at that address by May 27. al Park Service Area in Alaska” for May 4 in the Slana School, and in Copies of the guide are available public comment through May 27. Anchorage at 3:00 p.m. on May 11 on-line at The guide provides information at the Alaska Public Lands Informa- http://www.nps.gov/alaska at the to land owners and other valid occu- tion Center on 605 W. 4th Avenue. Press Room link. You can download pants of land within Alaska national You can obtain a copy of the the document for review and com- guide writing to Regional Director, ment at http://parkplanning.nps.gov/. PAGE 8 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 Second Draft Access Handbook still lacking
According to Draft Two, all in- able and may require extensive con- holders who access their land other struction, realignment and/or he long-awaited second than by snowmachine, motorboat or investigation of alternative access Tdraft of A User’s Guide to airplane would require an access means...” which would require indi- Accessing Inholdings in a permit unless their access is an es- vidual attention and the authoriza- National Park Service Area in Alas- tablished public right-of-way or tion process would “...more closely ka was released on March 27, 2006. park-designated road. Each permit resemble that for a new access Last fall, as the comment period for would outline the location and route or facility.” The draft gives a Draft One was drawing to a close, width of the route, which vehicles great deal of discretion to the NPS Wrangell - St. Elias Park Superin- may be used, the frequency of their to decide how these permits will be tendent Jed Davis advised us that he use, and the number of passes al- issued. would be asking his administrators lowed. Possible seasonal restrictions The Residents of the Wrangells for a simplified process to docu- may be imposed, along with stipula- (ROW) organization agrees with the ment access to inholdings without tions to prevent or compensate for governor that a categorical exclu- permits, fees, or environmental as- resource damage. Any trail mainte- sion (CE) should be developed to sessments (EAs.) He hoped to pro- nance would require a permit. The allow for ANILCA’s special circum- vide each landowner with an official term of the permit was increased stances and eliminate the need for document, attached to the land in from 10 to “up to” 30 years, but it permits, fees, and EAs altogether. perpetuity, to guarantee permanent would be attached to the landowner, In lieu of a CE, routes may be desig- access. not to the land itself. Renewals nated as historical trails or park- Despite being diagnosed with should be automatic if uses have not designated roads. We suggested a liver cancer last October, Superin- changed and no resource damage simple registration form which tendent Davis took our cause to the has occurred. Any sale or inheri- could document ownership, loca- Department of the Interior’s tance would require a transfer, ap- tion, and uses of all routes used to- Solicitor’s Office lawyers in Wash- proved by the superintendent. day, rather than a permit. Each ington, D.C. and fought on our be- Permits may be revoked for viola- landowner should receive a docu- half for those concessions. tion of their terms and conditions, ment from NPS, attached to the Unfortunately, the lawyers took a and periodic inspections would oc- land in perpetuity, guaranteeing hard line on granting special condi- cur. Additional restrictions may be permanent access across their cho- tions for Alaskans, despite the imposed by NPS at any time. sen route. No circumstances should promise in the Alaska National In- NPS would prepare EAs for all allow the access to be revoked. Fed- terest Lands Conservation Act routes in existence as of January 1, eral rulemaking changes should (ANILCA) that Alaskan inholders 2006. Where “numerous existing clarify that fees and EAs are not ac- would be treated differently. Davis routes have relevant similarities,” ceptable for Alaskans under ANILCA invited a few of us from the McCa- they will conduct one programmatic law. Traditional use of motor vehi- rthy area to meet with him just days EA (PEA), at their expense. NPS cles, and a certain amount of mini- before Draft Two was released to states that any permit application mal maintenance should be allowed outline the changes. He told us that for access across national park areas without a permit. Stipulations and the National Park Service (NPS) will require an EA. Whether future conditions which perceive future wants the guide to abide by current requests for access across undis- harm to the resources and saddle regulations and procedures that turbed land will also apply to the inholders with restrictions are inap- apply nationwide. PEA is not addressed. Fees will not propriate. The Alaska Region of NPS pro- be waived for more complex routes ROW recommended that a state poses to implement a policy to which require an Environmental appeals board, as suggested by the waive application, EA, processing, Impact Statement (EIS); those in- governor, be established to settle monitoring and rental fees for any holders would have to negotiate fees ANILCA disputes which arise. Ex- right-of-way needing an EA. Policy is with the NPS. treme and fanatical interpretation set at the discretion of each new Draft Two claims that “...the of the regulations should be avoid- administration and can be easily specific history of the access route ed. We asked that inholders be al- changed. No new federal rulemak- or facility, if any, will make a differ- lowed to participate in the ing will clarify that fees are inappro- ence in how the authorization will draft-writing process, but were told priate in Alaska under ANILCA law. be processed.” Also, “Some existing that we could not. access routes may not be sustain- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 9 We believe that the construc- the burden placed upon inholders unique rights of Alaskan inholders, tion of future routes should abide by under Draft One. But, NPS contin- the guide will not significantly the same conditions. We asked that ues to refuse to officially recognize change. Lawyers and officials in local volunteers be allowed to main- that ANILCA law mandates Alaskans Washington, D.C. cannot by law re- tain and repair existing and closed be treated differently from other quire Alaskans to abide by standard- routes, and that section lines and parks nationwide. Last fall, Jed Da- ized nationwide regulations. Draft RS2477 right-of-ways be recognized vis told a McCarthy audience that Two is unacceptable, and many resi- as valid access for those inholders NPS and residents should continue dents would like assurances that, that use them. to work together, with as many re- after receiving Draft Two com- Very few of these requests have writes of the draft as necessary to ments, NPS will begin working on a been addressed in Draft Two. Grant- “get it right.” significantly different process of ed, waiver of fees and development Until NPS realizes that they rulemaking the third time around of the PEA would reduce some of must recognize and respect the which includes a CE for all Alas- kans. McCarthy Area Council springs forward
community can receive full year- highest marks. The tram option, cCarthy: —On Friday, round maintenance. which received approximately half as many votes as the one-lane vehi- MMarch 31st, approxi- Junker and Coffey addressed mately 21 people gath- the possibility of a “non-permanent cle bridge, nertheless was discussed ered at the Blackburn Center to employee” in McCarthy that would in length. Some were of the opinion, begin the first of McCarthy Area use McCarthy-based DOT equip- because the $200,000 grant money Council’s (MAC) spring schedule of ment to maintain the airstrip. Ac- has already been earmarked for the meetings. cording to Junker, this equipment project and these funds will go away Joe Junker and Mike Coffey, of (which is located in the state-owned in 2007 if not used, strong support DOT, attended the meeting to an- building at the airstrip) can only be by MAC, in the form of a letter to swer questions and discuss winter used on the airstrip —not on the DOT, could help the project go for- maintenance of the McCarthy Road McCarthy area roads. ward successfully. According to and airstrip. At the present, when the Chi- MAC president, Jeremy Keller, the tram project will come up for a vote Periodic winter maintenance is tina crew comes in to plow the run- at the May meeting. done by the DOT crew from the Chi- way, they drive the McCarthy Road, tina station. After a large snowfall maintaining it en route to the air- Ed LaChapelle, long-time mem- priority is given to the main roads strip. If there was a non-permanent ber of MAC, suggested acquiring such as the Richardson and Edger- employee in charge of the airstrip, DOT support for liability, mainte- ton Highways. The McCarthy Road Junker said DOT would only come nance and ownership of the tram and airstrip are plowed and main- out in emergencies. This could before MAC proceeded with a vote. tained only after the crew has cause the winter maintenance of the Without this support from DOT, it cleared the major road system in McCarthy Road to suffer. is unlikely the project can go for- the district. “When they (Chitina Although nothing firm was de- ward. Keller said that DOT will like- crew) are caught up with those ma- cided at the meeting, MAC mem- ly only assume control if they hear jor roads, it is okay with me for the bers and guests thanked Junker and an overwhelming approval from Mc- guys to come out here (McCarthy),” Coffey for making the long drive Carthy. “A MAC vote could convey commented Junker. (over the McCarthy Road) to attend this support.” In spite of the excellent work of the meeting, answer questions and MAC member, Rick Kenyon, the Chitina maintenance crew, they give area residents information for pointed to the survey results, are not always able to give immedi- future reference. “People want a vehicle bridge 2 to ate attention to the airstrip, caus- Another major item up for dis- 1.” Some responded with, “There is ing hazardous conditions for cussion was the McCarthy no money currently for a vehicle unsuspecting pilots and the twice- Creek/Nizina Road access. The re- bridge.” weekly scheduled air service and sults from the October 22 south- Nizina property owner, Kelly mail delivery. Some residents of the side survey for access across McCa- Bay, stated that in his opinion the McCarthy area, are asking how the rthy Creek were presented. A “one- tram was a short-term project only lane vehicle bridge” received the and would not exclude a future bridge.” Kurt Smith, also a landown- PAGE 10 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 er on the Nizina, said that even equipment on both sides of the Other areas of concern were though he is a strong proponent for creek this summer to perform con- discussed such as: the legal access a vehicle bridge, he feels the tram struction activities. It is our desire over McCarthy Creek, whether the project should be pursued. to keep our equipment out of the creek is navigable waters and the The floor was then given to waters of McCarthy Creek. To that road ownership between the muse- Keith Rowland. Rowland is the own- end, we are exploring possible bridg- um and McCarthy Creek. er of Rowcon Services and Bridges ing solutions, with hopes of having Closing out the meeting, Jere- LLC of McCarthy who both con- something in place by this summer. my Keller announced the next MAC structed and owns the Kennicott It is likely that if we do have some- meeting for Friday, April 28th. Issues River Service bridge. No grants or thing in place this summer it would to be discussed will include: DOT public money was used for this proj- only be available to Rowcon person- airstrip/road maintenance, Clear ect but was a private business en- nel and equipment. In the future, Creek water issues, Tony Zak build- deavor which was accomplished Rowcon is interested in providing a ing maintenance, NPS User’s Guide within an 18-month period. Rowland bridge across McCarthy Creek that to Access, and McCarthy Creek read the following statement to is available to McCarthy area resi- crossing/tram. those in attendance:: dents and landowners. If this be- A May meeting is also scheduled comes a reality, we would actively The Rowland family has ac- for Friday, the 26th at noon to be quired McCarthy Creek waterfront seek positive local comments to de- held at the Tony Zak building. property. We intend to operate our velop a management plan. Glacier Bay hydro plans approved Land trade at Klondike rather than WRST
Dick Mylius, acting director of the al environmental study that cleared onstruction has begun Alaska Department of Natural Re- the way for the land exchange. The Con a new hydroelectric sources' division of mining, land and study assessed whether the hydro project for Gustavus just water. project would have a detrimental days after the land under it was re- Land in Wrangell-St. Elias had effect on the national park, Lee moved from Glacier Bay wilderness been considered for the exchange, said. Federal legislation sponsored protection. but a number of area residents were by Sen. Ted Stevens, R.—Alaska, The disputed $5 million, 800- opposed to the idea. Klondike, be- required the land exchange to move kilowatt project finally got under- ing one of Alaska’s smaller parks, forward if the study showed the way after state and federal officials seemed a much better place to add project would not impair the park. concluded a long-awaited land ex- land. The recent transfer of land to The effects of taking the land out of change for the former wilderness the University of Alaska may have the park were not part of the con- land at Falls Creek. also been a factor. sideration, Lee explained. The National Park Service trad- The new agreement also in- About 80 percent of the cost of ed to the State of Alaska 1,034 cludes creation of new federal wil- the project was funded by govern- acres at Falls Creek, inside the Gla- derness on small islands in Lituya ment grants, which should result in cier Bay National Park and Preserve, Bay and Blue Mouse Cove—a mea- stabilized electric prices in Gusta- in return for 1,040 acres of state sure intended to prevent net loss of vus. The Panhandle town now relies land along the Chilkoot Trail in the federal wilderness in the nation on diesel power generation and it is Klondike Gold Rush National His- park system, according to Glacier beset by some of the highest utility torical Park. Bay Park Superintendent Tomie rates in the region. "It's a good deal for us, the Park Lee. Service and Gustavus Electric," said The National Park Service is- sued a decision in March on a feder- WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 11 McCarthy Road flaggers wanted
OT will be doing sum- If anyone is interested in the If you have any questions please Dmer road work in the flagger class they need to contact feel free to call or email. Thank you, McCarthy/Chitina area PWSCC directly. All costs for the Tawnia Butorac Admin Clerk III as well as other areas. We are look- class are the responsibility of the DOT/PF - Tazlina 907-822-3222 of- ing for flaggers. PWSCC is offering a individual. If anyone is interested in fice flagger certification course on May a flagger position they need to con- [email protected] 6th, 2006. The class is from 1-5pm tact Local 71 in Fairbanks at 452- and the fee is $125 per person. 5024 and ask for Bonnie.
Wrangell-St. Elias Visitor Center reopens
isitor services provided the Visitor Center facility for the until Memorial Day Weekend, when V this winter in the summer. The Wrangell-St. Elias the Center will open daily through Wrangell-St. Elias head- Visitor Center reopened its doors on Labor Day Weekend, 8:00 a.m. to quarters building reception area in April 10. Visitor Center hours will 6:00 p.m. Copper Center will move back to be 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. weekdays McCarthy on the grid?
Rick Kenyon connecting at that point is not real- ome of us have discussed ly an option. Sthe sizable sums of money Mr. Kenyon, We recognize that the cost of being spent on individual Copper Valley Electric Associa- electric energy and reliability are power systems in the McCarthy ar- tion (CVEA) has no plans for provid- key factors for the success of any ea. The subject of Electric Utilities ing power to McCarthy. community and wish you well in came up, so I wrote to Steve Bush- your pursuit of alternatives. The end of the nearest CVEA ong, who is the COO of Copper Val- distribution circuit is at M.P. 17 on Steve Bushong ley Electric Association. Our the Edgerton Highway. This circuit Chief Operating Officer exchange follows. is a single-phase distribution line Copper Valley Electric Associa- Dear Mr Bushong, and originates at the substation tion, Inc. Is there any remote possibility across the road from Alyeska Pump (907) 835-4301 of electric power coming to the Station 12 and is already a very long community of McCarthy? circuit. For this reason and others, Thank you, PAGE 12 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 Signal strong and clear
Editor’s note: KIAM is the sta- Bob served as pastor at the Ne- After ten years of operation, tion in Nenana from which our local nana Bible Church for five years, Voice of Christ Ministries purchased Christian radio station originates. before he launched his radio mis- KYKD in Bethel from the Conve- The following is reprinted with per- sionary career. nient Church— “On April 1, fools mission from the Nenana Messenger Was planning and building a days,” Bob jokes. Then a little over a March 2, 2006. radio station a learning experience? year ago, KAGV in Houston, Alaska “I hope to shout!,” exclaims Bob. went on the air. They had to start IAM, with its home base “We could turn one (a radio) on.” from scratch with this project. Kin Nenana, celebrated 20 So, their dream required a huge Though Bob and Deloris do years of on-air ministry learning curve, applications for per- much of the hands-on work, they in Interior Alaska this past summer. mits, recruitment for financial sup- are quick to point out that they After five years of prayer, study, port and staffing and then finally have had a lot of help through the planning, fund raising, recruiting, construction of the station/studio years. In addition to the individual and building KIAM went on the air and the radio tower. Construction volunteer staff members, many sum- in June of 1985. started in 1983. mers work groups have pitched in to Today, Voice of Christ Minis- The office, located on 1st Street, assist with building projects. These tries, Inc. broadcasts across Alaska was once the Eldridge residence. It are groups on church missions from from three staffed stations and five underwent a number of renovations outside. Some of the work teams translators. Permits have been and additions. Then they built the are from universities and receive granted for 13 additional translator studio and productions building credit for their work. Some local sites from Sand Point on the Aleu- next door. The buildings are now people have also obtained work ex- tians to Prudhoe Bay and from connected by a joining room. perience and vocational training at Hooper Bay on the Bering Sea to The tower with its red lighted KIAM. Christopher Law, a Nenana Eagle on Alaska eastern border. tip rises above the skyline off Mile High School graduate, is one who These are scheduled to be on the air 298.6 of the Parks Highway on a 40 received High School vocational ed- by June of 2007. KAKN in Naknek is acre parcel that was donated to the ucation credit for on-air announc- an affiliate station. station by John “Jack” B. Coghill. ing. “No sign of retirement for Bob Coghill continues to support the Okay, so, we know that Bob and and Dee,” laughs Delores Eldridge station with sponsorship of an Deloris have done more than a fair about her and her husband’s mis- hour’s worth of dinner music on share of nail pounding, land clear- sionary work and future plans for Sunday afternoons. He even pro- ing and sheet rocking, but what are the radio stations. vides the music with his collection their official titles with Voice of Bob and Delores Eldridge of classical recordings. Christ Ministries? Bob is the moved to Nenana in 1977 from Ta- The 40 acre parcel was a wilder- Founder/Director and Dee is Secre- nana where they were involved with ness. It was a long process to con- tary, Accountant and Bob’s assis- missionary work to bush communi- struct the tower, says Bob. First tant. ties with Arctic Missions. Bob, a pi- they had to negotiate the required Though the station is complete- lot, found that itinerant flying permits with the Alaska Railroad for ly computerized, Bob says, he is mission work kept him from home the crossing so that they could clear happy to leave all the computer more than he wished. He never the land and build a road. Beside work to someone else. In fact, the knew when he was going to be the tower and support buildings, staff tease him by threatening to grounded by weather. Eldridges two homes were constructed on the give him a computer. It appears were raising their two young daugh- property. Eldridges live in one and that there is no lack of laughter in ters and three of Delores’s younger the other is for volunteer staff. the KIAM studio. siblings at the time. All staff is volunteer. Most are This 24 hour a day, seven day a It was during their years at Ta- serving missions and are financially week station gets its programming nana that Bob began to think about supported by their home churches. from many places, says Bob. Most a radio station for his missionary KIAM provides some housing for comes from satellite. KIAM offers a work. It used to be that Bob did his staff in Nenana as well as the home variety of programming and servic- mission work with the airplane and on the tower property. It takes sev- es. In addition to the nationally syn- now he does it via the radio and en or eight staff members to run dicated programs, the station offers backs it up with the airplane. the station. local news, weather reports, road
(continued on page 16) WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 13 Museum update
we will have new doors, refurbished Contact Meg at 907-554- e hope this finds you windows, and a paint job as well. 4408 or W well, and enjoying the The last time the Museum was
port, and each station would require Elias National Park and Preserve at s required by the National maintenance visits about once every 907-822-5234, Post Office Box 439, AEnvironmental Policy Act, four years. The public review period Copper Center, Alaska 99573. the National Park Service is April 6 through May 6, 2006. Comments on the EA may be sent has prepared an environmental as- Data from the statewide net- by mail to the park at the above ad- sessment for the proposed St. Elias work of seismometers are made dress during the public comment Erosion and Tectonics Project asso- available to the Alaska Tsunami period. ciated with the Alaska Earthquake Warning Center in Palmer, Alaska. Interested parties may also re- Information Center and U.S. Geo- The proposed new stations will im- view the EA and comment online. logical Survey. If permitted, the prove the ability of the Alaska Tsu- Go to the NPS website at project would expand the seismic nami Warning Center to detect http://parkplanning.nps.gov to re- station monitoring network in earthquakes in south central Alas- trieve the EA and provide your com- Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and ka. ments online. Preserve. Several new seismic sta- If you would like to comment on If you have any questions, con- tions would be in wilderness. Sta- the EA, the document may be ob- tact Steve Hunt, Environmental Pro- tion installations would occur in tained by contacting Wrangell-St. tection Specialist, at 907-822-7242. summer 2006 with helicopter sup- CLASSIFIED FOR SALE: Protect your computer. Brand new APC 350KVA Battery Backup (UPS)plus surge protector.$35 call 554-4454 email [email protected] PAGE 14 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 Road guidelines issued for RS 2477
not have the authority to determine resolve road disputes between the efore leaving office, out- what constituted a road and reject- federal government and counties,” Bgoing Interior Secretary ed several requirements a road Norton said. “The decision allows Gale Norton issued claim needed to meet, such as that the roads to be maintained at the guidelines defining what qualifies as roads must be established by me- status quo; it does not authorize a locally-owned road. chanical construction. automatic expansion of roads. Our Norton’s memo outlining the The court also ruled that while new guidelines respect the obliga- policy upholds a September ruling only courts could finally determine tion that Interior has to protect federal lands and environmentally on Revised Statute 2477 by the 10th the ownership issue, state law is Circuit Court of Appeals. good enough to establish a right of sensitive areas, particularly parks, refuges and congressionally desig- The federal government has had way. nated wilderness areas.” several policies on how to handle Norton’s memo applies the 10th the complicated task of defining a Circuit’s ruling nationwide. The So far both the State of Alaska road claim under the law and who new guidelines protect federal lands and the National Park Service have controls it. The National Park Ser- by clarifying that these roads can- been silent as to how the Norton vice policy has been to basically ig- not be expanded or significantly memo will affect the many roads nore all RS2477 claims within units improved without consultation with that have been claimed under that it manages. federal land managers, according to RS2477. It could open the way to the Interior Department. It ends all solve many of the access issues that But the 10th Circuit Court of have plagued Alaska’s parks and Appeals ruled last year in a case previous policies guiding R.S.2477 have frustrated Alaskans. brought by the Southern Utah Wil- claims. derness Alliance (SUWA) that the “The court's decision provides a Bureau of Land Management did thoughtful and reasonable way to NPS Alaska Sets Visitation Record in 2005
Yukon-Charley Rivers National Pre- new visitor center in Kotzebue, the ational Park Service serve registered more than 8,500 home for the three units that make Nunits in Alaska hosted a more visits than in 2004, to a total up the Western Arctic Parklands. record number of visits of 12,784. The increase is due to a And land acquisition was completed in 2005, with more than 2.35 mil- change in counting practices which in 2005 for a new visitor center in lion people counted at 15 locations now takes into account traffic to Seward which will serve Kenai across the state. The number was the unit's visitor center in Eagle. Fjords National Park and other up about 60,000 from 2004, the "Our visitation numbers show agencies. previous record year. growth that's similar to the visitor "We're looking forward to anoth- Klondike Gold Rush National industry in Alaska," said NPS Re- er solid year of visitation in parks in Historical Park in Skagway was gional Director Marcia Blaszak. 2006," Blaszak said. "We've joined again the most-visited NPS unit in "Visitors to Alaska want to see wild- with the Alaska Travel Industry As- Alaska with 888,255 visits, up about life, mountains, glaciers and a sociation to do some marketing of 44,632 from 2004. The park's visita- unique part of America's history. our lesser visited parks, and we tion is driven largely by cruise ship National parks offer all of those." think that will begin to show results passenger traffic, although hikers Improvements in visitor facili- in 2006 and in the years to come. on the historic Chilkoot Trail and ties are continuing, Blaszak noted. National Park Service visitation independent travelers add several The Eielson Visitor Center at Denali statistics nationwide are available thousand visits to the park's total. is being rebuilt and will open in on-line at Kenai Fjords NP also had a signifi- 2008. The park's entrance area visi- http://www2.nature.nps.gov/stats/. cant increase, with visitation reach- tor center opened in 2005; Denali's ing 258,297 in 2005, up about visitation in 2005 was even with 14,000 from the previous year. And 2004. Construction has begun on a WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 15 Second annual ice-fishing derby pulls in fish and friends
and seek out another hot spot on ong Lake: —Saturday, the lake. LMarch 25th seemed to Dollies were the fish of the know it was a special day. day. Andy Shidner and Don Welty It appeared in style with beautiful, tied for the largest fish —2.2 lbs. clear skies and warm temperatures. They each took home a new ice- At least 40 McCarthy area resi- fishing rod. David Rowland and dents and friends turned out to ex- Garrett Rosenkrans acquired new plore and sample the contents of rods for largest fish in their age Long Lake. Exploration was done bracket. Miss Hannah Rowland with two underwater cameras set won a brand new Barbie doll fish- up by owners Jim Kreblin and Rick WSEN staff photo ing rod. I expect we will see her Kenyon. An ice-fishing tent was Carl Gressel with nice Dolly Varden trout. out in full force next year as she erected for the occasion and con- has become quite the fisherwom- tained one of the cameras. This was Mark Vail was in charge of tak- an. Mike Monroe was presented of great interest to the young fisher- ing Jim Kreblen’s supplies and turn- with a new rod to replace his home- men (and women, of course). The ing them into a delicious chili for made rig for the Most Holes Drilled unsuspecting fish gave the folks all the fisherfolk. The food table was award. Carl Gressel took home a (mature and young alike) great overflowing with goodies from the new rod for a very unusual title: Be- pleasure when they swam by the many contributors. Hot dogs roast- heading Fish with Foot. I guess he submerged camera lens and, better ed on homemade sticks over a bon forgot to bring his filet knife! yet, took the waiting bait. fire on the ice kept the youngsters While folks fished, others like busy when they weren’t fishing. Many attendees, taking advan- René Welty and Jenny Rosenbaum, tage of spring break, traveled from Mike Monroe arrived early to piloted snowmachines and ferried other parts of the state to visit their get a head start on drilling the ice- young people around the lake on property and cabins in the McCa- fishing holes. With the ice nearly 3 their snowboards. A volleyball net rthy area. Of such were: Danny and ½ feet thick, he put in a day’s work was set up on the ice for those who Arlene Rosenkrans and family of before the rest of us arrived. I was wanted a change in sport. Copper Center, Art and Ann Ward one of the first to “wet a line” and Certificates were handed out to and family of Salcha, Michelle Casey soon pulled in three nice sized Dolly the winners in this year’s derby with and Tracey and Carl Gressel of Val- Varden trout. It wasn’t long before the grandest certificate going to dez. Roger and Tammy Rowland and other snowmachines and 4 wheelers Jim Kreblin: founder, host, coordi- their family from Dutch Harbor pulled up to the hot spot and “my” nator, Grand Marshal, sponsor and make it a yearly event to visit other hole was the center of attention. I ALL AROUND GOOD GUY for his family members in McCarthy. This was glad Mike was still drilling much-appreciated contributions to year the derby was included in their holes. I decided to loan mine out the 2006 Long Lake Ice-Fishing various outdoor excursions. Derby! Other locals traveled some dis- tance to attend the festivities: Mike Monroe of Kennicott, Mark and Em- ily Bass and their son Ross from the west side of the Kennicott River, Jim Stripe of Crystal Creek, Jim Drewry of Chokosna, Cal Ward, Jr. of Fireweed Mountain and Andy, Cynthia, Matthew and Robert Shid- ner of Mile 57 McCarthy Road, just to name a few. Friends and neigh- bors made good use of the fishing time to catch up on family news and adventures. WSEN staff photo Editor Bonnie Kenyon presents award to Jim Kreblin — founder, host, coordi- nator, Grand Marshal, sponsor and ALL AROUND GOOD GUY PAGE 16 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 John E. (Jed) Davis, 1949—2006
opper Center resident much, repairing leaks in the line The family remembers Jed was Cand Wrangell-St. Elias that supplied water to facilities on passionate about fishing and was National Park and Pre- the south rim of the canyon." fortunate to always live near great serve Superintendent John E. (Jed) Davis and his wife, Nancy, lived fishing. He taught his three children Davis, 56, died Monday, April 3, and worked in 11 national parks to fish and they carry on the tradi- 2006, in Anchorage with his family while raising their family. Davis's tion. Jed and Nancy always counted at his side. career included positions of increas- their blessings, realizing how fortu- A memorial service and recep- ing responsibility at Yosemite, nate they were to be able to live and tion are planned on Saturday, April raise their family in America's most 15, at 1 p.m. at the park visitor cen- wonderful natural places, the family ter, Mile 106.8 Richardson Highway, said. in Copper Center. His ashes will be Davis is survived by his wife, buried at Grand Canyon Cemetery Nancy, of Copper Center; son and in Arizona and a memorial service daughter-in-law, Ben Davis and Ma- will also be held there. ria Pedersen of Gustavus, Alaska; Davis was born in El Paso, Tex- son and daughter-in-law, Abe Davis as, on July 28, 1949. He grew up in and Heather Coletti of Anchorage; Grand Rapids, Michigan, and gradu- and daughter, Bethan Davis of Ju- ated from East Grand Rapids High neau. He is also survived by his School in 1968. He attended com- mother, Bette Vicari of Fayetteville, munity college there and worked as North Carolina; brother and sister- a respiratory therapist in East in-law, Richard and Chuckie Davis, Grand Rapids. also of Fayetteville: brother, Bob Davis of Huntsville, Utah; and sister Davis then moved west, begin- and brother-in-law, Diane and ning a 35-year career with the Na- Mount Rainier, Capitol Reef, Glen George Kuckenbacker of Harpers tional Park Service. He began work Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Ozark Na- Ferry, West Virginia. as a seasonal employee at Grand tional Scenic Riverways, Isle Royale, Canyon National Park in 1971, be- In lieu of flowers, the family and Death Valley. Jed and Nancy asks that memorial contributions be coming a permanent employee moved to Alaska in 2000 when he there in 1974, working as a carpen- made to the Jed Davis Memorial became deputy superintendent at Fund, in care of the Alaska Natural ter and plumber. His family remem- Glacier Bay National Park. He was bers, "Jed spent much time working History Association, 750 West Sec- named superintendent of Wrangell- ond Ave, Suite 100, Anchorage, AK on the cross-canyon pipeline, spend- St. Elias in 2004. ing time in the canyon he loved so 99501-2167.
Signal strong and clear (continued from page 12) conditions, fishing reports and pub- they don’t have an announcer on and family illnesses. The station lic service announcements (PSAs). staff at present that qualifies. conveniently broadcasts PSAs, KIAM, for many years broadcast- Mukluks is KIAM’s bush mes- weather and river reports in con- ed the local high school basketball sage program. “It was really nice to junction with the Mukluks. games and even traveled with the have,” says Lisa Jones, who used to KIAM is happy to broadcast team to broadcast away games. This live on their homestead in the Rex PSAs. It’s a free public service that was popular and a service that the area. It is broadcast three times a is under utilized, says Deloris. So, station would like to resume, howev- day, seven days a week and helps let the radio station know about er, the staffing is too short right keep the people living in the bush in planned meetings and other now—it requires two people on site touch with each other and with events—in Nenana AND in all the and one at the station. Also, broad- their friends and relations in town. other villages in their broadcasting casting the games requires an an- Sometimes the messages are impor- area. nouncer with basketball savvy and tant information about travel plans WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 17 The world around us
as if it was preparing a large en- facing the same direction, even fit- pring, it’s almost here! trance for a nest probably with the ting a squirrel deterrent flashing SLong days, warmer tem- hope of the tree being hollow there. around the base. peratures, mud puddles, After an hour or so he gave up and Soon after, here he came. I ex- and the sweet sounds of anxious tried another spot lower on the pected a sound of applause, but to bird-life all testify to the arrival of a same tree, and later yet another. my disappointment, he was unim- new season. Knowing the tree to be solid, I start- pressed. He totally ignored it and One of the most interesting and ed to scheme. (uh oh) switched to the next tree over and peculiar local birds are the wood- I thought: 1) This woodpecker began yet another dead-end hole! peckers. has been beating his brains out so Humbled and disappointed I decid- We have three main year-round long he can’t tell a hollow tree from ed I needed to learn a little more species. The hairy woodpecker a solid one, and 2) It really wants to about this curious neighbor of draws the most attention with its nest in this particular tree, and 3) I mine. larger size and loud raspy calling need to rescue him before he suffers It turns out they are quite a fas- and hammering. The downy and cinating creature. Like a journey- three-toed woodpeckers are smaller man carpenter showing up at the and less vocal, with the downy most job with all the latest and greatest abundant in our area. The flicker is tools, the woodpecker grows his also a summer visitor, loud and col- own state-of-the-art equipment orful; it is common here and the while still in the egg. He arrives at lower 48. his job, which is no easy task flying Both woodcutters and wood- without a plane(!) with a stout, peckers have enjoyed the spruce sharp chisellike beak. bark beetle infestation in our area. To keep from beating his brains The abundant larvae supply and vast out he is equipped with a special forested areas make perfect wood- cushion of cartilage on his skull be- pecker habitat. A common visitor, hind the beak. they often enjoy a winter treat at He also comes equipped with a the suet or peanut butter ball. tongue much longer than other All species are easily identified birds allowing him to extend it deep by their raspy, often loud “Kak Kak” into a hole and stab a grub. The call and hammering. Also identified tongue goes from the beak all the by their unique pulsing flight and way over the top, back and side of invisible ability to land on a vertical the skull, under the skin, back up to tree trunk with grace and precision. the nostril. The tongue also has a (After years of practice, a 30 degree sharp point, barbs, and a sticky glue slope max is my limit!) to help pull the grub out of a small deep hole. Then, it also produces a I am often entertained by these more brain damage. aerial carpenters in the spring as solvent for the glue to release the So the next day, as he ham- grub. they search for nesting areas and mered at yet another hole in the The special tail feathers and set up territories. They will hammer same tree, I prepared the nest box control muscles allow the wood- on anything that makes a loud noise of all nest boxes for this poor bird. pecker to form a tripod in conjunc- from hollow trees and fuel drums to Finding a hollow tree, of the same tion with its four-toed feet, (most the side of a house, to make known species, of course, and cutting a 24" other birds have three toes). These their presence to other males and section, I proceeded to fit it with tail feathers, in addition to being a prospective mates. luxury. A sloping roof, custom flight control surface, are durable One spring as I was working in scribed inside fit bottom, matching and strong allowing the woodpecker our yard, I noticed a hairy wood- diameter entrance hole and clean to brace itself for more effective pecker, that had been noisily hang- sawdust filling was added. I then blows on the tree. ing around for the last few weeks, proceeded to risk life and limb to was working on a hole high in a hang the box high on the same tree, So, with all this pecking and healthy nearby aspen tree. It looked hammering why don’t they need eye (continued on page 22) PAGE 18 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 THE CHITINA LEADER May 1914 June
OF GENERAL Mr. and Mrs. H. F. Thursday passes over. dinarily the heavy side INFORMATION Andrus left on the Considerable freight to the light side, it was Cordova, April 29. morning train for McCa- reach here on the possible to send the Announcement is made rthy, where they will hit Northwestern Wednes- compressor up to the of the marriage on last the trail for the other day is for McCarthy and mouth of the tunnel Saturday morning at side of the Nizina river Kennecott and it is over the tram in a few McCarthy of Miss Mia and go up Chittitu hoped to get it through. days. This is a distance Dixon and Mr. James K. creek to Rex. There they It is customary for the of 7,000 feet, on an an- Bryson, formerly a are engaged in large hy- spring break-up to oc- gle of 35 per cent, and member of the Govern- draulic placer mining cur about May 4. was a very gratifying ac- ment Boundary survey and will have 20 or more May 5 complishment. party. Mr. and Mrs. Bry- men at work this season. A gasoline engine is son left immediately for It is expected that A party who recent- being installed on the Shushanna, where Mr. the annual breaking up ly returned from the McCarthy creek flat Bryson is interested in and flow of ice in the Mother Lode property near the tram terminal, mining properties. Miss Copper river will have on McCarthy creek re- away from any danger of Dixon will be remem- an effect this week on ports that President snow slides. By estab- bered as a popular the travel between Chi- James J. Godfrey is di- lishing an electric gen- young lady who formerly tina and Kennecott. For recting the work of in- erator alongside the resided at Cordova. two or three days past stalling machinery so engine, and passing the Mrs. Geo. Max Es- there has been a slight rapidly and satisfactori- power through the gen- terly, who accompanied run of ice but it is not ly that it is expected erator on a wire up the likely that the railroad hill where it operates a her husband to Kenne- that soon after June 1st, cott, on his way to the timber bridge at Chitina the plant will be run- dynamo, which in turn placer camp on Chittitu can be kept intact much ning. James McGavock drives the compressor, creek, returned from longer. Each spring a is the chief engineer in the full efficiency is re- the interior on number of the spans go charge of installing the tained. yesterday’s train. She out and it requires from large compressor and J. B. Parks is the will leave on the steam- two to three weeks to 80 horsepower gasoline mine superintendent er Alameda tomorrow make the repairs. In the engine. Ten days or and he has 30 men morning for her home meantime it is not pos- more ago the compres- working under him. At at Seattle. sible to get heavy sor was taken to the present they are taking The wife of Dr. J. A. freight through to the mouth of the Marvelous out 10 tons of ore per Pavzant, who is physi- end of the line. Some tunnel. This was accom- day, which will be large- cian at the Bonanza passengers usually take plished by what is ly increased in the Mine, came in from Ken- chances in crossing the termed “reversing the course of a month or necott yesterday and river in boats, but it is tram.” The big track two. There are also 20 will take the steamer not advised. Efforts will rope is 1 1/8 inches in men employed outside Alameda for Seattle, be made to so divert the diameter, while the installing machinery, in where she will spend a ice that the piling will smaller rope is 7/8 of an addition to five team- few weeks with her sis- not be seriously inter- inch. By stripping the sters who are driving ter, Mrs. L. M. Price. fered with until after line of all of its buckets ten horses. Everything the train leaving here and making what is or- indicates that before WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 19
the summer is over the the shorter route and are new at work sluicing horse races, bicycle rac- Mother Lode will be pro- without crossing the riv- and good returns are ex- es and boat races. ducing big tonnage from er. pected. The camp is very June 9 the drifts and stopes in John E. Barrett, one short of provisions, but it Cordova, June 13. the Marvelous tunnel, is expected that with the of the old timers at Mc- L. A. Jones and wife and this will be estab- betterment of trails Carthy, or as it is now came in yesterday from lished as one of the big shortly pack outfits will known, Shushanna Junc- Copper Center and are and rich copper proper- relieve the situation. tion, was an arrival in at the Windsor. They will ties of Alaska’s rich dis- town yesterday. He re- June 2 leave on the first steamer trict. ports that the new town for the outside to enjoy a May 12 is growing rapidly. The people of Chi- short vacation. Mr. Jones Colonel Richardson May 19 tina are arranging to is the school teacher in states that for the pres- hold a big celebration on the interior town. ent season he cannot The word go has July 4th, expecting to June 13 contemplate any new been given and this after- have an attendance from Yesterday was the road work as the appro- noon at Chitina the first the various mining longest day in the year priation of $125,000 will stake was driven in the camps in the Copper Riv- and there was a proper nearly all be consumed survey of a route for gov- er and Chitina valley celebration of the event in maintaining and re- ernment railroads in camps. It is expected to at Shushanna Junction. pairing roads already in Alaska. run excursion trains in The big event of the oc- use. He states that the Cordova, May 28. both directions, from casion was the twilight bridge across the Nizina Cordova and Kennecott. game of ball between the river has been completed The new auto that Efforts are being made McCarthy Tigers and the at a cost of something has been in town for sev- to secure prominent Kennecott Bear Cats. It like $23,000, and that eral days will be shipped speakers from the divi- was an interesting and efforts will be made to to Chitina on Saturday’s sion to address the well played game have the road leading to train. It will start out on crowds on the vital ques- throughout, but the Ti- and from the bridge put its first regular run to tions of the day, as they gers were too quick for in passable condition. He Paxson’s on Tuesday apply to this section of the Cats, who were hand- was informed by J. E. next. It will soon be aug- Alaska. All kinds of ath- icapped by so much Barrett, of McCarthy, mented by an autotruck, letic sports will be in- brightness. The score re- that the citizens of that to be shipped from Seat- dulged for the benefit of sulted in 4 to 2 in favor community had built a tle on the steamer leav- the visitors, the plea- of McCarthy. The event bridge across McCarthy ing Saturday. When it sures of the day to wind was marked by such a creek capable of holding arrives it will be put on up with a grand dance in jubilation that the Ken- the strongest team. They the run also, to carry the evening at the Arctic necott boys went home were hopeful that the freight for the road hous- Brotherhood hall. in high spirits, feeling Road Commission would es and mining camps. Among the sporting just as good as though build a road to the new CHITINA, June 2. events, for which prizes they had won. They bridge and also con- Reports received to the amount of 350 will promise that the story struct trails on this side here yesterday from the be given, will be a game will be somewhat differ- of the Nizina, so that Nelchina placer camp of baseball, automobile ent on the Fourth of July. traffic to the Chisna via state that there is pay on race, Indian war dance, the Chittistone could go five creeks. Eight outfits June 23
Reprinted from The Chitina Leader May and June 1914 issues PAGE 20 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 Alaska wood frogs hopping in mystery
athy Turk has seen sever- should. She also has an answer for Injuries aside, the defect per- Kal wood frogs near her Turk’s question: centage in Alaska frogs seems high home in Tok, and she “They could be breeding in wet- compared to frogs in Canada, Ver- wonders how the farthest-north am- lands in Tok that people don't think mont, and Minnesota. Reeves and phibians can live in such a cold, dry of as wetlands,” Reeves said. “We her partners take a good look at the place. find them breeding in tire tracks, abnormal frogs they capture, send- “Since we are pond-starved in roadside ditches. A place just has to ing some of them live to the Univer- my Tok area, how are these frogs stay wet through late June or mid- sity of Wisconsin-Lacrosse to check laying eggs and where do the tad- July. Alaskan frogs might also range them for tiny parasites. Then, their poles grow?” Turk wrote in an farther from their breeding sites blood goes to Lafayette, Louisiana email. than we think they do.” for DNA analysis at the USGS Na- Before answering that question, The Kenai Peninsula is the site tional Wetlands Research Center, let's pause a moment to marvel at of much of Reeves’ frog research. and the gonads go to McNeese State wood frogs, which range as far north Along with colleague Kim Trust, University in Louisiana, where re- as the Arctic Ocean in Canada and Reeves has captured thousands of searchers will see if anything is have been spotted around Anaktu- frogs and tadpoles there to search wrong with the reproductive organs. vuk Pass in Alaska. These palm-size for abnormalities. With skins that The researchers don't yet know creatures survive Alaska's winter by allow water and air to pass through what is causing the frogs not to be burrowing into the duff and allowing and tadpole stages that develop in perfect frogs. It could be chemical the cold to freeze them solid, even the water, frogs are vulnerable to contaminants, parasites, ultraviolet their eyeballs and hearts. After toxins and often are one of the first radiation, predators, temperature, spending the majority of the year as species that alert scientists that or a combination of these things. tiny ice cubes, protected from dry- something is wrong. Of several thou- Pending lab results may hold the ing out by the glucose their livers sand frogs Reeves and others have answers. flood their systems with as they hi- examined on the Kenai, about 10 A more basic mystery about bernate, they thaw and hop to percent don't look normal. Some wood frogs is why people often find breeding ponds in early to mid sum- have missing or shorter legs, or eyes them hopping so far from water. mer. In most of mainland Alaska, that are all black instead of the nor- Reeves said scientists aren't sure they are the only cold-blooded, mal black with a yellow iris. Ten per- how far wood frogs roam, but Alaska smooth skin creatures roaming the cent is a high number of Pacific University graduate student boreal forest. The same species of abnormalities, Reeves said, but it’s Meg Purdue and USGS geneticist wood frog ranges all the way south tough to be a tadpole. Sandra Talbot will look for clues by to Arkansas. “Out of our 10 percent that are studying a population of Kenai Pen- “They’re kind of the coyote of abnormal, 20-to-30 percent of them insula frogs this summer. the frog world,” said Mari Reeves, a could be due to some sort of injury,” “We’ve been looking to answer biologist with the U.S. Fish and she said. “Lots of things eat that question for a long time,” Wildlife Service who studies wood tadpoles—dragonfly larvae, water Reeves said. frogs. Reeves and her field crews beetle larvae, birds. Only about four This column is provided as a public have traveled from the Porcupine percent of eggs make it from the service by the Geophysical Institute, Uni- River to the Kenai Peninsula to see tadpole stage to metamorph (into versity of Alaska Fairbanks, in coopera- if Alaska’s frogs look like they frogs).” tion with the UAF research community. Ned Rozell is a science writer at the insti- tute. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 21 Science expo 2006
ects to parents and Patty Yould, this our guest speaker, Ed LaChapelle, inosaurs, optical illu- year’s scientific commentator. spoke with the group about the use Dsions, water collection, At noon the science expo was of science in everyday life and as a plant growth, melting opened to the public. At this time career. Very interesting to be sure!! ice, and volcanoes were the subjects The student scientists then pre- of the 2006 Science Expo, held on sented their projects to the general March 17th, in the basement of the public, answering questions and giv- McCarthy – Kennicott Community ing individual explanation. I also Church. overheard several ideas for next Local student scientists began year’s projects – that’s a scientist their work weeks ago, collecting for you, always thinking what’s the data, formulating a hypothesis, test- next interesting idea to investigate! ing that hypothesis, drawing conclu- Special thanks to Patty Yould sions and organizing their science and Ed LaChapelle for their help, project to be presented at the Sci- and direction, our community for ence Expo 2006. supporting the local scientist stu- Photo courtesy Kelsey Smith dents, and especially the students The student scientists, Kaylin Left-right in front row: Kaylin Moffitt, for putting in the effort to make Moffitt, Kelsey Smith, Tessa Bay, Robert Shidner, Patty Yould, Ed this day such a great time!! Matthew Shidner, Robert Shidner LaChapelle, Will Dure, Matthew and Will Dure, presented their proj- Shidner. Back row: Tessa Bay, Kelsey Smith A Collection of Arrows
ment and amazed the parents of the on the shaft. The exciting part was he local 4-H club, the 4-H members. blowing up our targets, balloons, TWrangell Rebels, have had Going on, we then fletched the which left a lot of people breathless. a guest from Fairbanks, arrows, or put our feathers of choice We then scattered the balloons on Alaska! The weekend the hill. We of March 10-12, Mr. picked out our Jeff Coe spent the bows then trooped weekend at the Nizina out into the cold River with the Smith air and frosty family. On March 7, snow. We took 2006, Mr. Coe came turns shooting to McCarthy, and was and everybody got introduced to the at least one bulls- members of the 4-H eye! club. We are very The 4-H project happy to have had was to make arrows. Mr. Coe come out We painted the crest, and teach us the or our colors, on the fun art of archery. arrows. Colors burst We would like to from the arrows— thank Mr. Coe for blue, green, pink, everything he yellow, red, brown, Photo courtesy Kelsey Smith taught us, and for and black. They lit Kaylin Moffitt, Kelsey Smith, Will Dure, Tessa Bay, Matthew & Robert his fun presence. up the church base- Shidner, Jeff Coe. Thanks! PAGE 22 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 Kennicott River Service Bridge gets facelift
efforts of the river to erode s we go to press the present pier. Athe end of April, The work is expected to the Kennicott Riv- take about 10 days. A tem- er Service Bridge is getting porary bridge span has been its east pier replaced. This is placed just downstream of a scheduled modification, the main bridge to accom- for the purpose of installing modate emergency traffic a larger pier with armor across the river. rock, in order to resist the
WSEN staff photos Right: Object in foreground is new pier that will replace the existing east end support pier. Below: East span removed. Temporary bridge span just downstream.
The World Around Us (continued from page 17) protection? Slow motion photogra- just watch with greater appreciation praise and adoration of our creator phy has shown that between each their flying and carpentry skills. for this marvelous world around us. peck, a woodpecker opens its eyes, As evolutionists sit and scratch References: 1) National Audu- aims, then closes again before the their heads in frustration on how bon Society; Birds of America; next peck. Wow! Try imitating that feathers, avian lungs, temperature woodpeckers, pg. 137, Part II. 2) D. next time you hear a hammering regulation, navigational abilities or Juhasz; The Incredible Woodpecker, woodpecker if you want to entertain even just one cell from one part of Exnihilo 1995, Vol. 18, page 10-13. your mate! one animal could arise from random Excellent websites: I have since decided to let wood- mutation, I hope you will join me in www.answersingenesis.org and peckers make their own nests, and www.ICR.org WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 23 A merry heart does well like a medicine blonde walks into a collateral for the loan. The bank’s worked out very well, but we are a bank in New York City president and its officers all enjoy a little puzzled. and asks for the loan good laugh at the blonde for using a While you were away we officer.A She says she’s going to Eu- $250,000 Rolls as collateral against checked you out and found that you rope on business for three weeks a $5,000 loan An employee of the are a multimillionaire. What puzzles and needs to borrow $5,000. The bank then proceeds to drive the us is why you would bother to bor- bank officer says the bank will need Rolls into the bank’s underground row $5,000?” some kind of security for the loan, garage and parks it there. The blonde replies, “Where else so the blonde hands over the keys to Three weeks later, the blonde in New York City can I park my car a new Rolls Royce. returns, repays the $5,000 and the for three weeks for only $18.41 and The car is parked on the street interest, which comes to $18.41. expect it to be there when I re- in front of the bank, she has the ti- The loan officer says, “Miss, we are turn?” tle and everything checks out. The very happy to have had your busi- (Thanks to subscriber Trig Tri- bank agrees to accept the car as ness, and this transaction has giano)
LETTER TO THE EDITOR (cont) another year. She came to Tanzania ent species of birds and other ani- Dar es Salaam alone, a city with a as I was leaving in 2003, replacing mals that live in this area. A good population of over 2 million, uses an one of my best friends. It was a lot portion of the farm is virgin forest, average of 2000 tones of charcoal a of fun living the life of a Volunteer untouched and pristine with numer- day. The forests in the outskirts of once again, her site is very similar ous rivers and streams
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Chitina Fish Wheel Shop The new store in town! FishwHeels and lots of stuff Host Edy Norton
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WRANGELL MOUNTAIN McCarthy Kennicott Community Church TECHNICAL SERVICES An inter-denominational church Providing Civil Engineering and All faiths welcome Land Survey Services “The church on the island” Sunday morning service Serving the Copper Basin and throughout Alaska 10 a.m. On-Site Water and Wastewater Designs Jesus is Lord! Engineering Consultation Residential Home Inspections COPPER RIVER Construction Inspection and Management As-built Surveys, Boundary Surveys, Sub- RECORD divisions, Construction Surveys Community Newspaper for the Copper Valley ALLEN MINISH, PE PLS Subscribe * Advertise * Contribute! Mile 32.1 Edgerton Hwy P.O. Box 277 Glennallen, AK 99588 P. O. Box 118, Chitina, AK 99566 907-822-3727 phone and fax 907-823-2280 [email protected] McCarthy McCarthy Bed & Breakfast Building Cozy, quiet cabins, all with private bathrooms & showers. Pull into our conveniently located homestead on the Services McCarthy Road, ½ mile from the Kennicott Owners John & Carmen River footbridge. 907-554-4433 Continental breakfast & fresh coffee Private baths Local bonded and insured busi- Gazebo kitchen ness specializing in frame cabin Picnic area building. · Tire repair Contact us for your building needs. [email protected] PO Box MXY Glennallen, AK 99588-8998 (907) 554-4433 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 27 Valdez Realty
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Recreational lots at Chokosna River Tracts—approx. Mi. 27 McCarthy Hwy. 1 ¼ acre and up—some / hwy frontage, some / Chokosna River frontage. w Now taking reservations for 2006. Phone (907)554-4454 or Email www.PropertyRightsResearch.org [email protected] See us on the WEB at Julie Smithson, Researcher Wsen.net/WSENBB.htm 213 Thorn Locust Lane London, Ohio 43140-8844 Your hosts, long-time residents Rick & Bonnie [email protected] Kenyon. 749-857-1239 (voice/no fax)
Your gateway to adventure... PAGE 28 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 Copper Center Lodge Family owned and operated
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The New
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Ellis Air Taxi, Inc. RESPONSIBILITY FOR DEPARTURES, ARRIVALS, CONNECTIONS. Ellis Air will not be responsible for damages resulting from the failure of flights to depart Phone 822-3368 or arrive at times stated in this timetable, nor for errors herein, nor for failure to make connections to other airlines or of this company. Schedules are subject to change without notice. Schedules 800-478-3368 shown are based on expected flying times. Because weather and other factors may affect operat- ing conditions, departures and arrivals cannot be guaranteed. Gulkana Airfield Box 106, Glennallen, AK 99588
Copper River Cash Store
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Downtown Copper Center 822-3266 Store Hours 10 am to 6 pm, Monday - Saturday PAGE 32 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 Cooking with Peggy velop flavors. Skim off fat. Bring stew you. I wanted to use one from one of i everyone. Soon after to room temperature. the earlier presidents but some of the Hyou read this, Jim and I Reheat in microwave oven 4-5 ingredients were a little daunting, like will have traveled the minutes; top of range 15-20 minutes “½ peck of tomatoes, eel skin wrapped 4,000 miles necessary to reach our or until hot. Makes 6-8 servings. around salmon for the lard, a dozen eggs in one cake,” etc. I chose Mary McCarthy, Alaska summer home. Next I found A Very Special Cook- Lincoln's Election Cake for this issue It’s a long trip but beautiful the book from the Packers and Wisconsin since election is a word we'll all be whole way and really wonderful Special Olympics which came out in hearing for the next couple of years! when we get there. 1991. It was a great book because it gave you info about each player and Did you know that her family disap- This month's recipes are a little coach and recipes that each had sub- proved of her marriage to Abe because bit of a mixture. I am addicted to mitted himself as well as some submit- he was just a poor rawboned lawyer book stores when we travel and ted by their wives and children. It was in Illinois who was ten years older when I go inside the first place I difficult to choose just one but here than she! head is to the cookbooks. We recently goes with one submitted by Keith Uech- Election Cake made a trip to Arkansas and I found er, a Guard/Tackle for the team. 1 cup currants, soaked overnight in a some gems! One of them is called Keith’s Chicken with Angel tightly closed jar in ½ cup brandy Seasoned Greetings, A Celebrity Hair 1 tablespoon sugar Cookbook put out in 1988 to benefit cup scalded milk 4 oz. Angel hair pasta 3/4 the WDAF-TV4 Love Fund. 1 yeast cake 1 medium onion, chopped You all must know who Ed As- cup warm water 1 zucchini, sliced 1/4 ner is! He contributed 1 cup flour, unsifted 2 cloves of garlic, crushed ½ cup butter Ed Asner's Mediterranean 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 cup sugar Stew 12 oz. boneless chicken, cut into thin 2 cups sifted flour 1 lb. Chuck steak, cut into 1 ½” strips 3/4 ½ teaspoon salt cubes 1 can stewed tomatoes, Italian style teaspoon mace 1 lb. Sweet Italian Sausage ½ cup whipping cream 3/4 1 teaspoon cinnamon Parmesan cheese 1 ½ cups burgundy 1 egg whole Cook pasta according to package 2 cups water 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind directions, drain. In skillet, cook on- 1 6-oz. can tomato paste 2 teaspoons lemon juice ion, zucchini and garlic in oil 3 min- 3/4 teaspoon pepper To the scalded milk add 1 table- 3 minced garlic cloves utes. Add meat; cook until browned. Drain tomatoes, reserving liquid. To spoon sugar; cool. Dissolve the crum- 2 teaspoon paprika skillet, add reserved liquid; cook on bled yeast in warm water, and add to 1 lb. cubes cooked ham high 5 minutes or until reduced, stir- milk. Add the un-sifted flour, and beat 3 coarsely chopped medium onions ring frequently. until well blended. Let rise in warm place until it has doubled in bulk, 1 coarsely chopped sweet red pep- Add whipping cream; cook 8 min- about 1 hour. per utes or until thickened, stirring fre- 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley quently. Sir in tomatoes and pasta; Cream butter and sugar until very 2 1-lb. cans drained garbanzo beans heat through. Serve with grated Par- light. Drain brandy from currants. 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind mesan cheese and garnish with Place sifted flour, salt, mace, and cin- 1 head cabbage, cut into wedges chopped parsley, if desired. Cooking namon in sifter. Add egg to creamed time is 20 minutes. mixture and beat until light. Stir in In a large skillet, saute beef cubes lemon rind and juice. Add yeast mix- The last one I'll tell you about from and sausage until brown. Drain meats ture and beat thoroughly. Add cur- this trip is called First Ladies Cook and slice sausage; transfer to Dutch rants, retaining the brandy for later. Book—Favorite Recipes of All The oven. Add wine, water, tomato paste, Sift in flour, add brandy, beat well. Presidents of the United States. It salt, pepper, garlic and paprika. Bring Place in tube pan or 9X5 loaf pan that takes us from Martha Washington to to boil, cover and simmer 1 ½ to 2 has been well greased. Cover with a Nancy Reagan with historical lore that hours or until meat is tender. cloth and place in warm place away gives us a little more personal side of Add remaining ingredients except from draft. Allow to rise until double the presidents and their wives than we cabbage. Cover and cook about 20 in bulk. This mixture rises very slowly minutes. Refrigerate overnight to de- are used to hearing. It was so difficult to choose a recipe to pass along to WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 33 and may take 4 to 6 hours to double Now just one more from our own 2 tablespoons cornstarch in bulk. Fran Gagnon. Remember how I bought ½ teaspoon salt Bake at 375 degrees F. for about a little box of her recipes at the garage 1 can condensed beef broth 45 minutes. Cool in pan briefly. Turn sale she had before she moved to Phoe- 2 egg yolks out on rack, allow to cool further. nix. By the way, the last note I had 2 tablespoons butter Then brush with lemon or orange from her she is doing so much better. ½ cup cider vinegar glaze. This recipe is for a sauce you can use Mix mustard, brown sugar, corn- on ham, chicken, pork chops or any Lemon or Orange Glaze starch, and salt in a small saucepan; meat dish. I served it hot, tried freez- 1 cup confectioners' sugar stir in beef broth. Beat egg yolks ing it, and served it cold on a sand- slightly in cup; stir into mustard mix- 1/4 cup lemon or orange juice wich and IT ALL WORKS. ture. Cook stirring constantly until Mix the sugar with the lemon or Hot Mustard Sauce sauce thickens and boils 3 min. Re- orange juice. Beat well. Then spread 1/3 cup dry mustard move from heat. Stir in butter until thin on top of cake. Let it drizzle melted then slowly stir in vinegar. down the sides, but do not ice the 1/4 cup firmly packed light brown sug- Makes about 1 2/3 cups of sauce. cake sides. ar
inches on the 1st and ended February ‘02-‘03, and 67.1 in ‘01-‘02). The ebruary was just about with 1 inch. greatest snow depth was 30 inches Faverage in both tempera- March saw the return of warmer on November 25th and December ture and precipitation. temperatures and plenty of sun- 5th. This compares with an average March was cold and dry. shine. The high temperature for (‘80-‘05) of 65.1 inches and a snow The high temperature for Feb- March was 48 on the 20th (51 on depth of 27 inches. The greatest snow fall was 110.6 inches in ‘03- ruary was 44 on the 10th (41 on Feb. Mar. 11, ‘05 and 45 on Mar. 29, 8, ‘05 and 44 on Feb. 21, ‘04). The ‘04). The low temperature for ‘04 ( 99.9 inches in ‘90-‘91) and the lowest temperature recorded at Mc- March was -31 on the 17th (-5 on lowest was 27.3 inches in ‘86-‘87. Carthy in February was -26 on the Mar. 21, ‘05 and -21 on Mar. 20, The greatest snow depth was 42 inches ‘03-‘04 (39 inches in ‘90-‘91) 25th (-40 on Feb. 5, ‘05 and -15 on ‘04). The average March tempera- Feb. 27, ‘04). The high was 40 or ture at McCarthy was 10.0 com- and the lowest was 16 inches in ‘86- above on 4 days and the low was -20 pared to 28.7 in Mar. ‘05 and 21.0 ‘87 and ‘98-‘99. Silver Lake had a or lower on 5 days. The average Feb- in Mar. ‘04. The high reached 40 or total snowfall of 48.5 inches and the ruary temperature was 11.6 (12.3 in higher on 10 days and the low was greatest snow depth was 27 inches. ‘05 and 14.9 in ‘04). This is still -20 or below on 9 days. Silver Lake The first 12 days of April have mild compared to -5.9 in ‘99. Silver had a high 43 on March 2nd and 25th seen a gradual warming of tempera- Lake had a high of 47 on February (45on Mar 11,’05 and 41 on Mar. tures and 9.9 inches of wet snow 12th (40 on Feb. 24, ‘05 and 40 on 24, ‘04), a low of -24 on March 18th (1.13 inches liquid). The high has Feb. 22, ‘04) and a low of -38 on (-5 Mar. 26, ‘05 and -17 on Mar 21, been 48 and the low 0. By the 30th February 4th and 5th (-41 on Feb. 6, ‘04). The March average tempera- we are observing lows near 30 and ‘05 and -38 on Feb. 1 ‘04). The aver- ture at Silver Lake was 10.3 (27.2 highs in the mid 50s. There is about age February temperature at Silver in Mar. ‘05 and 16.6 in Mar. ‘04). 22 inches of wet snow left. It is safe Lake was 9.7 (9.5 in ‘05 and 22.9 in March liquid precipitation was to say that breakup won’t be over ‘04). only a trace (0.12 in Mar. ‘05 and until the first part of May. The February precipitation was 0.67 in Mar. ‘04) and snowfall was May should see a rapid increase 1.72 inches of liquid (1.17 in ‘05 0.1 inches (0.8 in Mar. ‘05 and 10.1 in temperatures with highs in the and 1.46 in ‘04). Total snowfall was in Mar. ‘04). Silver Lake had 0.0 60's by mid month. Precipitation is 8.6 inches (16.4 in ‘05 and 4.3 in inches of liquid ( 0.0 in Mar. ‘04 and usually on the light side with an av- ‘04). Silver Lake had 0.40 inches of 0.27 in Mar. ‘04) and snowfall of 0 erage amount of less than an inch. liquid (0.83 in ‘05 and 0.27 in ‘04) inches (0 in Mar. ‘04 and 5.0 in June is usually the warmest and 1.0 inches of snow (10.0 in ‘05 Mar. ‘04). By the end of March the month at McCarthy with an average and 5.0 in ‘04). McCarthy began snow cover was 21 inches at McCa- temperature in the mid 50's, highs February with 24 inches of snow on rthy and only a trace at Silver Lake. in the 70's and about 2 inches of the ground and ended the month The total snowfall for ‘05-‘06 rain. with 24 inches. Silver Lake had 4 was 83.2 inches, thru April 12 (79.4 in ‘04-‘05, 110.6 in ‘03-‘04, 44.5 in PAGE 34 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 FOR YOUR CONSIDERATION
do not take away or unduly diminish CSUs (Conservation System Units) that right.” They have would be administered by regula- esidents had high hopes “...researched the legislative and tion.” Rfor Draft Two of the Na- regulatory history of permit require- The University also felt that the tional Park Service ments pursuant to Section 1110(b) draft “...asserts a level of discretion (NPS) Access Guide after Superin- and believe the Service has some in the Secretary that is not support- tendent Jed Davis assured us that flexibility to modify or relax proce- ed by the Statute.” The Secretary’s he would fight for no permits, fees dures to establish adequate and fea- discretion is limited to the protec- or environmental assessments sible access to inholdings.” They tion of the CSU resources. Draft (EAs). Unfortunately, some in the suggest that NPS “...quickly and Two allows NPS managers even Interior Department do not share simply provide inholders with the more leeway in deciding the level of his willingness to address our is- security of a permanent authoriza- assessment, fees, vehicle usage, sues. tion.” maintenance options, and stipula- The cover letter for Draft Two We agree. tions for each right-of-way. It fails to claims “...owners and other valid The State also recommends recognize or identify discretionary occupants are entitled to adequate that NPS have as their goals: defer- limits. and feasible access to their proper- ence to the inholder’s definition of Section 1110(b) of ANILCA ty, but the process of obtaining le- adequate and feasible access; mini- opens with a powerful phrase, gal access across public land has mal administrative burden; guide- “Notwithstanding any other provi- never been well described in a sin- lines for NPS use of discretion; sions of this Act or other law...” The gle document.” The letter goes on clarification that access cannot be State asserts that this language to say , “The draft describes how denied; a substantial role for inhold- “...clarifies that requirements of landowners and valid occupants can ers in the process; permanency of other laws cannot be used to over- secure rights under Section rights; minimal maintenance with- ride the substantive grant of access 1110(b) of ... ANILCA.” out further approval; the ability to provided by this section,” and Alaskan inholders do not need transfer property without adminis- “...exempts the required use of NE- to obtain or secure their legal ac- trative approval; and the pursuit of PA in implementation of Section cess or rights; the Alaska National rulemaking to amend the existing 1110(b).” Yet NPS insists on apply- Interest Lands Conservation Act regulatory process to allow for ing NEPA to our situation. (ANILCA) unequivocally granted ANILCA law. A Categorical Exclusion (CE) is those rights in 1980. These issues were not properly defined (40 CFR 1508.4) as “..a cat- Department of the Interior addressed in Draft Two of the Hand- egory of actions which do not indi- (DOI) Solicitor’s Office lawyers told book. vidually or cumulatively have a Davis that the Alaskan guide must The University of Alaska also significant impact on the human be designed to fall under current commented on Draft One. They environment, and which have been nationwide regulations. ANILCA strongly objected to the develop- found to have no such effect in pro- legislation mandated that access to ment of a guide without inholder cedures adopted by a Federal agen- inholders in Alaskan parks be han- representation and participation, cy in adoption of those procedures dled differently. This issue is the viewing this omission as “...an im- (Section 1507.3) and for which, core of our inability to come to mu- portant signal of a lack of impartial- therefore, neither an environmental tually acceptable terms. As long as ity and fairness in the process assessment or environmental im- this dichotomy exists, residents and followed to date and certainly af- pact statement is required.” Gover- NPS will find it difficult to come to fects the outcome of the process.” nor Frank Murkowski requested the any agreement. As a matter of fact, they objected to use of a CE in his letter to Secretary The State eloquently presented the entire idea of the Guide, and of the Interior Gale Norton, written its objections to a permitting sys- recommended ordinary rulemaking April 15, 2004. Draft One comment tem in its Draft One comment. They processes be followed to adopt letters from the State, University of reinforced the fact that adequate “...regulations under the Adminis- Alaska, Residents of the Wrangells, and feasible inholder access is not trative Procedures Act, not the issu- McCarthy Area Council, and Slana discretionary and requested a for- ance of rules in the form of a User’s Alaskans Unite, among others, all mal document for residents, needed Guide....Section 1110(b) contem- call for the development of an to “...assure that future managers plates that its protections of the unique ANILCA CE. WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006 PAGE 35 NPS has never seriously consid- came very close to convincing the sion of our access solution; he told ered the use of the CE to carry out D.C. lawyers of recognizing access us in McCarthy last fall that he sup- the ANILCA mandate. How can the in perpetuity; even he agreed that it ported no permits, no fees, no EAs, suggestions of so many affected was worth pursuing further. Our and a permanent access document landowners be completely ignored? heirs should not have to deal with attached to the land in perpetuity. Alaskan park residents deserve a the ambiguities of transfer approv- Alaskans must not be forced to permanent solution through rule- als thirty years down the road. Now abide by the same permitting proce- making to eliminate the use of EAs is the time to resolve the access dures as the rest of the nation. If and fees and provide a simple docu- situation permanently. the State continues to press for a ment which assures access in perpe- Sadly, Jed Davis passed away on CE as a better alternative to the tuity. Thirty-year term renewals to April 3. He brought a new kind of Draft Two document, perhaps NPS’ evaluate the situation are unneces- management to our park by listen- third attempt will more closely re- sary since NPS plans to periodically ing to and respecting the desires of semble the unhampered, perma- monitor routes to ensure that re- the residents. His hard work won nent access that is our sources are protected and uses have some important concessions, but ANILCA-mandated right. not changed. Davis said that he Draft Two falls short of even his vi- LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
Hello to the Kenyons! Volunteer eventually won out. My resort and high school friends. I Please renew our subscription original plan was to begin my trav- spent nearly as much money in for 2 years. els in mid-November after finishing those 5 days as I have in the past 3 We miss reading it so much! the season working at Birch Shores months in Tanzania. Your coverage of the Pilgrims was Resort, but the allure of a U.P. win- A fellow backpacker named very good and objective. It was a sad ter made me postpone my travel Lukmaan was met during my 8 hour story. plans until after Christmas. It had layover at the Dubai Airport in the been 4 years since experiencing a My favorite article is The World United Arab Emirates just as I was Yooper winter. Last year I opted to Around Us by Don Welty. But really chuckling at the realization that I spend the winter months in Alaska, it is all so good. It’s the only paper I had no money on me for a taxi ride the winter before road tripping read in its entirety. from the Dar Es Salaam Airport to a around the lower 48 and the previ- guest house once I arrived in Tanza- Thanks again, ous 2 teaching mathematics in Tan- nia. We hit it off right away and Mark and Lee Ann Fowler zania. Luckily for me fall turned to spent many hours discussing life, Editor’s note: Jay Bitely spent a winter in a hurry and I was far from the universe and everything while winter here in McCarthy (2004- disappointed, being able to fit in awaiting our flight. Turned out he 2005) and we have enjoyed follow- plenty of ice fishing and snowshoe- was also heading to Tanzania. He ing his travels since. ing before heading south of the picked up the taxi ride and for the WSEN, equator to work on my flip-flop next week we were inseparable, After 2 years of staying in the farmer’s tan, at the peak of the Afri- touring the capital city and taking a confines of North America I decided can summer and rainy season. 3 day trip to the island of Zanzibar it was time to take my show on the A flight was booked departing off the coast of Tanzania. We had a road internationally once again. from New York to Dar Es Salaam, lot of fun conversing with the locals But where to go? It is a big world, Tanzania for the 10th of January and as he spoke fluent Hindi and Arabic with many places begging to be ex- returning on the 20th of April. Five
(continued on page 23) PAGE 36 WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NEWS MAY & JUNE 2006
w Private cabins for 2 to 4. Your hosts, long-time residents Rick & Bonnie Kenyon. w Convenient access by automobile. w Historic homestead setting. Enjoy Alaskan bush living. w Quiet location away from the crowds! Phone (907)554-4454 or Email [email protected] See us on the WEB at http://mccarthy-kennicott.com/WSENBB.htm