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COASTAL BC TRAVEL & LIFESTYLE | 2016

DISCOVERY WALKING IN ANCIENT PAST AND PRESENT HISTORIC FISH FIRST NATIONS ARTWORK FOOTSTEPS ON IN THE SOUTHERN CANNERIES TAKE ON AFLOAT ON THE HAIDA GWAII GULF ISLANDS A NEW LIFE SALISH SEA onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 1 2 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 3 Natural gas. Good for navigating the future. DISCOVER

BC Ferries has chosen cleaner-burning, liquefied BRITISH COLUMBIA’S WILD AND natural gas (LNG) to fuel three new ferries. With LNG, their carbon dioxide emissions will BEAUTIFUL NORTHWEST COAST decrease by approximately 9,000 metric tonnes per year—the equivalent of taking 1,900 passenger vehicles off the road annually.* It will also help reduce fuel costs despite the recent decreases in oil prices. From ferries and tractor-trailers, to delivery trucks and waste haulers, natural gas is navigating the future of B.C.’s heavy-duty transportation sector. To learn more about natural gas for transportation, visit fortisbc.com/ngt.

*Source: Calculations and references, 2011 at epa.gov/cleanenergy/energy-resources.

FortisBC uses the FortisBC name and logo under license from Fortis Inc. (16.120 04/2016)

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This year, we invite you visit us in Prince Rupert and discover our nature.

VisitPrinceRupert.com

4 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast DISCOVER BRITISH COLUMBIA’S WILD AND BEAUTIFUL NORTHWEST COAST

This year, we invite you visit us in Prince Rupert and discover our nature.

VisitPrinceRupert.com

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 5 CONTENTS

WHERE THE SURF MEETS THE TREES Exploring southern Vancouver Island is a journey from salty beaches and ancient forests to the Sooke Potholes, pictured here.

ANCIENT MYSTERY Haida Gwaii is a place of spirituality, tradition and vibrant culture steeped in history.

8 WILDLIFE GUIDE Spotting and recognizing some of the intriguing wildlife found along the BC coast. 11 AMONG THE STARS Life on the Southern Gulf Islands looks idyllic — and it often is. But it wasn't always so easy. 41 NET RESULTS BC’s once-booming fish-canning industry has left a legacy of structures and stories up and down the coast. 46 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL Vancouver is an urban centre on a global scale, but it reveals another side to those who spend time on the water.

ON THE COVER A kayaker reflects on the day’s adventures while the sun sets over Clayoquot Sound on the west coast of Vancouver Island.

23 48 BRINGING IDEAS TO LIFE MEET THE FLEET 28 Learn to recognize the 35 coastal BC Ferries’ SeaForward program takes employees’ ideas and turns vessels large and small in the them into environmental initiatives. BC Ferries fleet.

32 50 ART AFLOAT POSITIVELY EXCEPTIONAL WHERE WE SAIL BC Ferries’ new Salish-Class intermediate-sized ferries have practical and Hardeep Parmar’s friendly and caring A comprehensive map of BC Ferries environmental advantages over the aging vessels they will replace. Equally attitude has earned him kudos — routes and terminals. important, they’ll pay homage to First Nations culture with stunning original artwork. and turned passengers into fans. Cover and contents page photos © Alamy Stock Photo.

6 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast Victoria Oceanfront Condo Living from the low $400k

From indigenous beginnings to some of Emily Carr’s most inspired work, this magnificent land offers you a lifestyle of Vitality Living in a new development.

• Live in a Village Community and get to know your neighbours

• Live in the midst of nature within the convenience of an urban setting

• Take a walk through the old growth forest or a class at Royal Roads University — both are right at your doorstep

• Take a cooking class and master that perfect pear-and-gorgonzola pizza in the Cooking Theatre

• Indulge in your passion for woodworking and be creative at Rod’s Wood Workshop

• Practice some yoga and experience inner peace at the Swan Yoga Studio perched on the top floor of the Dunsmuir House overlooking the woods

PHASE ONE UNDER CONSTRUCTION Draw Yourself In 778-265-8288 • pacificlanding.ca Cover and contents page photos © Alamy Stock Photo. Come see us at 3221 Heatherbell Road, in Victoria, BC onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 7

OB-16-Pacific Landing.indd 1 2016-04-14 2:36 PM | WILDLIFE GUIDE |

| IN THE AIR S TIPS for spotting and recognizing some of the intriguing wildlife found along the BC coast

| IN THE SEA

BALD EAGLE BLACK OYSTERCATCHER Where to spot them: Where to spot them: All along BC’s coast resting on This shorebird likes rocky exposed tree branches or gliding islands, islets and through the air. sheltered bays. What to look for: What to look for: Black White heads, golden beaks and heads and bodies, nine- dark brown bodies; a wingspan centimetre red bills and PACIFIC WHITE-SIDED of more than two metres. yellow eyes. You may hear DOLPHIN their distinctive “rubber Where to spot them: ducky” call before you In the deeper waters of the see them. southern Georgia Strait and GREY WHALE Howe Sound. Where to spot them: What to look for: Distinctive In the Salish Sea each spring as they migrate north. black-and-white dorsal fins What to look for: and striped grey sides. These Mottled, barnacle-covered 36-tonne mounds in 150-kilogram aquatic acrobats the water that are often mistaken for large logs or can clear the water completely rocks. Grey whales are up to 15 metres long. when they leap.

PIGEON GUILLEMOT Where to spot them: On rocky cliffs, small islands DALL’S PORPOISE and some ferry terminals all Where to spot them: GREAT BLUE HERON along the BC coast. In the Salish Sea year-round. Where to spot them: What to look for: What to look for: ORCA OR KILLER WHALE All along the BC coast year- A penguin-like black The “rooster tail” wake of water Where to spot them: round, especially in shallow seabird with a short neck these small, speedy black-and- All along BC’s coast, especially during summer. water, estuaries, rivers and and a white belly. These white porpoises form when What to look for: marshes. birds can swim underwater they surface. Long black backs (up to eight metres), white bellies What to look for: for up to 30 metres at and a white “eyepatch.” Watch for blowhole sprays, A metre-tall, long-necked a time. breaching and fin-slapping. blue-grey bird with a black stripe above each eye.

| COASTAL NATURALIST PROGRAM | IN 2016, PARKS CANADA AND BC FERRIES are partnering to deliver the 11th year of the Coastal Naturalist Program. Onboard select BC Ferries routes from June 29 through Sept. 5, Coastal Naturalist ambassadors will offer passengers enriching educational presentations on coastal BC. Among the topics this season are kelp forests and Gulf Islands clam gardens. The program helps increase awareness and appreciation for BC’s wildlife, geography, culture and history. Find a Coastal Naturalist ambassador onboard this summer to discover the wonder of the coast. Background image, Dall's porpoise, orca, and pigeon guillemot © Alamy Stock Photo; Pacific white-sided dolphin, grey whale, blad eagle, black oystercatcher and great blue heron istockphoto.com

8 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast EntEr to Win BC Ferries

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RedPoint Media Group Inc.

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Julia Williams Staff Writer See details and enter to win at onboardmagazine.ca Prize package must be redeemed between June 1, 2017 and Sept. 30, 2017. Contest closes at 11:59 p.m. Oct. 31, 2016. Mike Matovich Full contest rules and regulations at onboardmagazine.ca/contest. Production Manager

Brooke Forbes Print Traffic Coordinator

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ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: 403-240-9055 [email protected]

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Printed in Canada by Transcontinental LGM.

Statements, opinions and viewpoints expressed herein do not necessarily represent the views of the publisher. Madeira Park Copyright 2016 by RedPoint Media Group Inc. Pender Harbour No part of this publication may be reproduced without paintedboat.com the express written consent of the publisher. 1.866.902.3955 Call today and mention Promo Code PBRP Media & Marketing Solutions Your Place on the Sunshine Coast Pete Graves President & CEO

100, 1900 11 St. S.E., Calgary, Alberta T2G 3G2

For Custom Publishing Enquiries: [email protected] Background image, Dall's porpoise, orca, and pigeon guillemot © Alamy Stock Photo; Pacific white-sided dolphin, grey whale, blad eagle, black oystercatcher and great blue heron istockphoto.com

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 9 Northern Discover the untamed Adventures 4-night stay from wilderness of the North. $599* Journey through the untouched per person/dbl. occ. coastal wilderness of the Inside Smithers Prince Rupert Masset Embark on an unforgettable Passage and marvel at glacier- journey to Northern BC, with Tlell Prince George carved fjords, majestic forests, Skidegate tour packages to Haida Gwaii, and abundant wildlife. Sail to Haida Bella Coola or Prince Rupert.

Klemtu Gwaii and experience a land of Ocean Falls Bella Coola Bella Bella Shearwater Williams natural beauty, rich with First Nations Lake culture. The Northern coastline DESTINATIONS offers breathtaking adventures from whale- Port Hardy watching tours to grizzly bears in their natural • Bella Coola • Shearwater Whistler

Courtenay/ • Klemtu • Skidegate habitat – come enjoy it all. Choose a unique Comox Qualicum Horseshoe Bay Beach Vancouver • Ocean Falls • Smithers Departure Bay Tsawwassen vacation package from one of our north coast Duke Nanaimo Point • Port Hardy • Terrace destinations, or ask our travel consultants about • Prince George • Tllaal Victoria customized package options. • Prince Rupert • Williams Lake

Three easy ways to book: • bcferries.com/vacations • 1-888-BC FERRY Ext. 3 (Canada & US) • BC Ferries Vacations Centre 1010 Canada Place, Vancouver, BC

*Plus GST and surcharges. Price listed reﬂ ects a 4-night stay at the Haida House at Tllaal. Prices quoted are per person in Canadian dollars based on double occupancy and include round-trip ferry between Prince Rupert and Skidegate for two adults and one car. Based on availability. Some restrictions may apply. BC Reg. 48839. 10 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast

NORTHERN ADVENTURES

PROOF# DOCKET #: 132102740 CLIENT: BCF DESCRIPTION: ONBOARD MAGAZINE ADS account art copywriter: creative producer: studio 10 executive: director: director: artist: 5th Floor, 1085 Homer Street, FILE NAME: 2740 BCF Onboard Magazine-Apr12.indd Vancouver, BC V6B 1J4 ELLA DT JF JG Calvin Porter p: 778 331 8340 TRIM: 7.875" x 10.75" LIVE: 6.875" x 9.75" BLEED: 0.25" f: 778 331 8341 approval: (sign off required) www.camppacific.com IMAGE INFO: 300 dpi PLEASE NOTE: colour lasers do not C M PMS XXXX LIVE AREA DIELINE accurately represent the colours in the finished product.this proof is Y K PMS XXXX Dieline strictly for layout purposes only. MODIFICATION DATE: April 14, 2016 1:44 PM SOUTHERN GULF ISLANDS

BY PEG FONG

AMONG THE STARS Past and present, sea and sky tell the story of the Southern Gulf Islands

ut in a small boat off Mayne Island, midway between Victoria and Vancouver, there’s a perfect spot, a place where the timeless beauty of the night sky surrounds you. The only manmade light is a dull O glimmer from the folding slopes of the Tsartlip First Nation on the Saanich Peninsula about 45 kilometres away. As your eyes adjust to the darkness, the sky fills with a stunning tapestry of stars, a vast panorama rarely seen by urban dwellers. Shutterstock.com

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 11 There are hundreds of islands and STAYING CONNECTED islets in the Salish Sea’s Strait of Geor- gia between Vancouver Island and the Island life isn’t right for everyone — mainland. The Southern Gulf Islands and for decades, it wasn’t right for Eva group includes Salt Spring Island — the Hage. She first purchased her home on largest and most populous — and the Saturna in 1996 and began going to the “outer islands”: Galiano, Mayne, Pender island on weekends and holidays. The and Saturna. This is a story of life on those idea of living there permanently seemed outer islands, from the hardscrabble past too isolating. to the easygoing present, through the eyes Hage grew up in a small commu- of those who live there. nity in her native Sweden, and she never thought she could go back to • • • one. But she and her husband, who had For Mamie Hutt-Temoana, the stars Vancouver office jobs, decided recently shine brightest on Pender Island, where that they were ready to be on Saturna she moved from Vancouver five years full-time. Technology had made island ago. And it’s not just her: astronomers living practical for them. and stargazers often stay at the Salmon- Returning from a successful spearfishing “In the beginning, we didn’t have berry Inn, her bed-and-breakfast, just expedition circa 1915 in the rich waters off good Internet access on the island. Now to get their fill of a night sky free from Pender Island. we do, and that allows me to stay in light pollution. touch with clients,” Hage says. A busi- “Some nights we just sit outside and ness consultant, she still needs to spend the stars are as far as the eye can see,” For Hutt-Temoana, Pender is the time in Vancouver. “But this is our she says. When the stars make way for perfect spot. It’s not as busy as Salt permanent home. I sleep so much better the sun, Hutt-Temoana explores her Spring and not as small, popula- here. When I’m gone, it’s not home — island home. She and her three dogs set tion-wise, as Saturna. The island’s two it’s not Saturna.” off for long walks along the ocean or separate parts, connected by a bridge, up rocky bluffs to meadows and forests. have a quiet side, South Pender, for With wildlife from the sea to the sky — those seeking solitude, while North DIFFERENT VIEW including more than 100 bird species — Pender has an active community with there is much to see. more to offer families and kids. For some with deep roots on the Gulf Islands, the love of island life and the lure of the larger world can be in conflict. John Pender’s great-grandfather was the first permanent settler on South Pender back in 1886. (The name is likely pure coincidence, although Pender’s family believes there may be a distant connection to explorer Cmdr. Daniel Pender, for whom the islands were named in the mid-1800s.) Pender spent summers and holidays on the island beginning in 1952. He lived in Vancouver and Nanaimo, mov- ing to the island briefly in the 1980s but Above, peering into a soon leaving. tide pool on Galiano In 2003, he decided it was time to Island. Above right, the settle full-time, like his family genera- annual Saturna Lamb tions before, on Pender Island. Barbecue is a Canada When he visited the island as a boy Day tradition. Right, in the 1950s and ’60s, rough, unlit dirt cycling a country road on Saturna Island. roads were the route from the top of North Pender to the southern tip of the south island. “It was kinda scary

at times — and the view was different This page, top, courtesy Pender Islands Museum; bottom, © Alamy Stock Photo; right: Destination BC/Reuben Krabbe.

12 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast Kayakers ply the protected ocean waters off the rocky shore of

This page, top, courtesy Pender Islands Museum; bottom, © Alamy Stock Photo; right: Destination BC/Reuben Krabbe. Pender Island.

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 13 S | GETTING THERE |

then,” Pender says. “When you drove beneath us and above us. Some of our along the water, you could see all the first lessons in life from our father, way to Saturna.” grandmother and grandfather were That’s because logging, a mainstay about how to live with water and how to (along with fishing) of the Gulf Islands respect it.” economy for much of the 20th century, had stripped the old-growth cedar and fir forests right to the water’s edge. “WHAT IT ONCE WAS” The 120-hectare Pender family farm had been cleared in the 19th century by To make a life on the Gulf Islands as the hand and with oxen. The family took early settlers did, before ferry service, boat trips to shop and play darts or electricity, telephones and the Internet, tennis, or to the Saturna Lamb Barbecue required determination. Work in the — a July 1 highlight, as it is today. The forests and on the water was hard and water was also the transport route for dangerous. Until the 1960s, there wasn’t huge log booms pulled by tugboats to much to lure the general public to island 1 lumber mills. life. “No one really wanted to be here,” GULF ISLANDS Georgeson says. BC Ferries vessels sail to But then, as regular ferry service Salt Spring, Galiano, Mayne and Pender islands from LIVING WITH WATER and more amenities were put into place, Tsawwassen on the Lower longtime residents saw more people ar- Mainland and Swartz Bay on Commercial logging and fishing have riving on Friday nights — people who, it Vancouver Island. BC Ferries all but vanished now — gone are the turned out, had bought weekend homes. sails from Village Bay on Mayne days when Rosemary Georgeson’s “There were massive wall-to-wall loads Island to Saturna Island, from family depended on both for their of people. Then on Sunday they would Crofton on Vancouver Island Galiano Island livelihood. Georgeson’s reappear and load back on the ferry. For to Vesuvius on Salt Spring great-grandfather Henry (Scotty) a long time, we didn’t know where all of Island, as well as from Nanaimo Harbour on Vancouver Island Georgeson made his way from Scotland them went.” to Gabriola Island. to San Francisco then to the BC coast, They weren’t coming to farm, log or lured by gold fever in the 1860s. fish, but to seek a relaxed, quiet break In time, he and his First Nations from the mainstream. And in time, 2 wife Sophie became pioneering some of them stayed. Restaurants and GULF ISLAND lighthouse keepers along Active Pass, stores opened, and more tourists came. DISCOVERY DAY TRIPS the shortest route between southern The trees that had been logged be- (from Swartz Bay) Vancouver Island and the mainland, gan to grow back. They grew taller, and Foot passengers can visit a number of Gulf Island ports guiding ships past hazards on what can were protected by law. “You can with a round trip voyage, at times be a treacherous route. see, now, what it once was,” Georgeson leaving from Swartz Bay. “Water for us is not just for travel- says. “It was a rainforest, and now it ling over,” Georgeson says. “It is what’s is again.” 

“Some of our first lessons in life from our father, grandmother and grandfather were about how to live with water and how to respect it” — Galiano Island resident Rosemary Georgeson

Top: MV Mayne Queen arriving at Saturna Island’s Lyall Harbour. Above: A trail in Bodega Ridge Looking out across Trincomali Provincial Park, Galiano Island. Channel from Montague Provincial Marine Park on Galiano Island. In S the photo are Rosemary Georgeson's FOR SAILING SCHEDULES mother and aunt. AND RESERVATIONS VISIT bcferries.com Bottom left, courtesy Rosemary Georgeson; top right and bottom right, © Alamy Stock Photo.

14 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast discover ck rock 100%

UCLUELET • BRITISH COLUMBIA

Escape to Black Rock Oceanfront Resort, a magical location on British Columbia’s wild west coast

1-877-762-5011 • www.blackrockresort.com

DflflcoverDflflcover youryour flnnerflnner explorerexplorer onon VancouverVancouver Iflland.Iflland. WeWe offeroffer frflendly,frflendly, pperflonalflzederflonalflzed flflervflceervflce aandnd ddafllyaflly nnon-flflopon-flflop flflflflflflflflflflflflfl flflflflflflflflfl Aflr Canada, Cenflral Mounflafln Aflr, Pacflfic Coaflflal Aflrlflnefl and WeflflJefl. flflfl.comoxaflrporfl.com Photo Credit: Boomer Jerritt, Photographer Boomer Jerritt, Photographer Credit: Photo Bottom left, courtesy Rosemary Georgeson; top right and bottom right, © Alamy Stock Photo.

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 15

DOCKET#: 16-CVA-076 FILE NAME: BC Ferries Ad FILE FORMAT: Illustrator CS6 CLIENT: COMOX FLAT SIZE: 6.875" × 4.75" FILE SIZE: 6.875" × 4.75" SCORE / DIE LINE: FILE PREPARED AT: 100% PROOF OUTPUT AT: 100% COLOURS: CMYK C M PROOF#: 1 DATE: 03/02/16 TIME: 9:20 AM CREATIVE STUDIO STUDIO LANGUAGE DIRECTOR: ARTIST: MANAGER: REVIEW: K Y HAIDA GWAII

BY TIM JOHNSON

ANCIENT MYSTERY Experiencing the passion of a people and the beauty of their land

walk among historic totem-like standing of dewy green grass holding firm against encroaching firs poles, some proudly upright, others slowly on one side and the churning sea on the other — I can feel collapsing, and I can almost hear them whis- the power and strength of the Haida people. I pering to me. They tell the story of a mighty I’m on the southern tip of Gwaii Haanas National Park nation once battered but not broken, pressured but never Reserve and Haida Heritage Site in Haida Gwaii, formerly shattered. known as the Queen Charlotte Islands. The archipelago S'ang Gwaay Llanagaay is a special place, one that of about 200 islands is separated from the mainland by has long been sacred. As I walk along the site — a clearing Hecate Strait. Haida Gwaii’s lower third is dominated by

16 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast Historic carved poles stand watch at S'ang Gwaay Llanagaay, part of the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site in Haida Gwaii. The poles are allowed to decay naturally by tradition.

Gwaii Haanas, which preserves the territo- ry from the mountaintops to the sea floor. Acting as guardians from spring to fall, Haida Watchmen oversee the area and edu- cate visitors about the park and its history. Beginning in the north, at the Haida community of Skidegate, I had slowly made my way to the extreme southern edge of these often misty, always mystical islands. On my first night, Roberta Olson, owner of Keenawaii’s Kitchen, greets me with a feast. For more than 20 years, Olson has welcomed visitors and friends into her seaside home in “As I walk along the Skidegate, serving up hearty Haida site — a clearing of meals with a side dewy green grass order of culture. holding firm against On this night, a couple encroaching firs on dozen hungry one side and the travellers from sea on the other — across North America listen to I can feel the power traditional songs and strength of the played by three Haida people.” generations of Ol- sons on her back patio overlooking water and mountains, then move inside to a long table for a dinner of fry bread, seafood chowder, smoked sockeye salmon, black cod and roasted sea asparagus. Later, I chat with Olson, who notes that her cooking played a part back in 1985 when the Haida reasserted their purview over logging on these islands. Seeking to stop the cutting of old-growth forests on Lyell Island, protesters formed a human blockade, winning a big victory there, which led to the creation of the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site. “I did a lot of cooking at the blockade,” Olson tells me. “I realized that this soul food builds up people’s spirits.” The soul comes through in art, as well. A little farther up the road, I visit Ben Davidson, son of renowned Haida artist Robert Davidson and a master in his own

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 17 masks and totems, each intricately carved, Centre, an impressive museum where I learn A former whaling station, Rose Har- dramatically painted and imbued with both about the Haida’s difficult history. bour is now just a small scattering of build- passion and history. Once one of the dominant nations on ings inhabited by a handful of year-round I ask him about the Haida’s long legacy the west coast, the Haida were decimated residents, who make a pioneer-style life on of excellence in artwork. The unique qual- by diseases brought here by Europeans in the southern end of the islands. ities of Haida art have earned it numerous the 19th century. Survivors were eventually Along the way, we tour places like accolades and fame. Notably, The Spirit of forced north, coalescing in two villages: Skedans, a once-robust village hit hard Haida Gwaii by Haida artist Bill Reid once Old Massett and Skidegate. in the 1880s by a smallpox epidemic that appeared on Canada’s $20 bill. “The idea The remains of traditional villages killed some 90 per cent of Haida Gwaii’s in- here is to bring in what was done in the old are still here, hidden among tall trees and habitants. We view black-and-white photos times in the villages,” Davidson says. “But veiled by mists on the islands now protect- that testify to its vibrancy, showing a line at the same time, we had a succession of ed by the government of Canada and the of homes crowded onto a sweep of beach, people pushing to go further. That’s why it’s Haida Nation. each one paired with a pole. Some of those evolving.” I sign on for a Zodiac tour with a remain to this day, and we walk among Davidson’s All About U Arts gallery company called Moresby Explorers (often them, learning that they’re purposely left is one of the first fine art studios on the shortened to “MorEx”), pulling on gumboots to decay, following a pattern traced by all islands, and perhaps the only place where and a long raincoat and, accompanied by an living things. you can see works in progress. After dealing experienced guide and about a dozen other Skimming across the water, often with drugs and depression, Davidson says fellow travellers, launch deep into this en- surrounded by pods of orca and humpback he was saved by a good woman, and now chanted wilderness. We spend four days mo- whales, we lunch on isolated beaches, scarf- pours his life into his family and his art. toring between sites of cultural and natural ing down healthy, hearty fare while sitting “Some people say that I was lucky to significance, overnighting at either MorEx’s on driftwood. We tour abandoned logging open the gallery, but they didn’t see me comfortable, floating lodge in the north of camps, now overgrown and in the process hanging the drywall myself. It was built Gwaii Haanas or a guesthouse in the quirky of being reclaimed by nature. with blood, sweat and tears.” Now, visitors little community of Rose Harbour. And we visit S'ang Gwaay Llanagaay, and locals come to truly experience Haida art. “We want people to sit and soak it in — there’s no pressure to buy.” “The idea here is to bring in what was done in the old times in the Inspired, I feel compelled to seek the villages. But at the same time, we had a succession of people pushing art’s roots, and for that, I head south. First, I — Haida artist Ben Davidson get a little background at the Haida Heritage to go further. That’s why it’s evolving.”

18 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast Facing page: Walking among huge spruce trees at Windy Bay. This page, top: Eco- tourists take in a Zodiac tour. Lower left, Haida Watchmen's cabin at Windy Bay. Lower right, Haida artist Ben Davidson.

The Legacy Pole, they add, commem- orates the agreement that created Gwaii Haanas. In it are embedded eagles and ravens, of course, as well as a representation of those brave Haida who stood against the loggers. For Williams and Collison, being a watchman is more than a job, it’s a way to honour their forebears, as well as those who fought more recently to protect and preserve this land. “Both of my parents were arrested at the protests on Lyell Island — they suffered indignities so my kids and Vince’s kids could experience this one day,” Williams says contemplatively. And the fact is, their sacrifice has allowed me, too, to see all these beautiful and deeply spiritual places. Collison sums it up well: “See those spruce trees outside? They’ve seen so much history, and here you can reach out and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a For our final stop, we land at Windy touch it. They’ve been here for so many place of beauty and palpable spiritual Bay, a site sheltered by massive Sitka spruce years, and now they’ll be here for so power. Here, poles still stand in a long line trees where the beautiful new Legacy Pole many more.”  like sentinels, figures of eagles and ravens stands. While the rest of the group takes a representing the two Haida clans, as well as hike, I chat with the two Haida Watchmen Tim Johnson is a Toronto-based bears and other animals, still distinct in the posted there, James Williams and Vince writer who has visited 109 countries weathered wood. We learn their cultural Collison, who invite me into their on-site on all seven continents. He studied significance — some preserve family histo- residence and explain the significance of history, so seeing some of Canada’s ries; others serve as a standing testament to these carved poles. “They’re what we had most amazing historical artifacts up a particular deceased person. instead of history books,” Williams says. close was a true thrill.

S | GETTING THERE |

PRINCE RUPERT – SKIDEGATE SKIDEGATE - 1 Crossing time: 8 HOURS 2 ALLIFORD BAY (Graham Island - Moresby Island) BC Ferries offers year-round sailings between Prince Crossing time: 20 MINUTES Rupert and Skidegate. There are two to five round-trip sailings per week across the Hecate Strait, depending on Graham and Moresby are the the season. Reservations are required for passenger and two major Haida Gwaii Islands. vehicle travel. The ferry service between them operates year round with eight Also consider taking the scenic route. Winding your way round-trips daily. Alliford Bay up Vancouver Island to Port Hardy, your journey will take is 15 km (nine miles) south of you through beachside resort towns like Parksville and Sandspit and the airport on Qualicum Beach toward Campbell River, considered by Moresby Island. Skidegate is our some to be the salmon fishing capital of Canada. Once in Graham Island terminal. Port Hardy you’ll board BC Ferries’ Northern Expedition or Northern Adventure. Marvel at your surroundings as you BC Ferries’ MV Kwuna serves cruise up the famed Inside Passage, and discover why this the Skidegate-Alliford Bay route. is one of Destination Canada’s Signature Experiences. S FOR SAILING SCHEDULES AND RESERVATIONS VISIT bcferries.com © Alamy Stock Photo; photo of Ben Davidson courtesy Ben Davidson. |

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 19 GO BEYOND. ALLEZ PLUS LOIN. Photo Credit: Guy Kimola Credit: Photo

[email protected] | GoHaidaGwaii.ca

“Southeast Wind” appears with permission of the artist, Robert Davidson

20 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast GO BEYOND. ALLEZ PLUS LOIN. Photo Credit: Guy Kimola Credit: Photo

[email protected] | GoHaidaGwaii.ca

“Southeast Wind” appears with permission of the artist, Robert Davidson

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 21 South Coast Getaways 2-night stay from $ * Experience breathtaking 199per person/dbl. occ. Packages include round-trip ferry travel for two adults and one car, two adventure, relaxation and more. night’s accommodation, and extras.

Discover the charm of Victoria, the rugged Port Hardy wilderness of DESTINATIONS Whistler Quadra Vancouver Island’s West Island Powell Campbell River River Coast, and the serenity of • Brentwood Bay • Powell River Madeira Park Courtenay/ Comox • Burnaby • Quadra Island the Gulf Islands, each with Langdale Qualicum Horseshoe Bay Beach • Campbell River • Qualicum their own unique personality. On Parksville Vancouver • Chemainus • Richmond Tofino Tsawwassen the other side of the Georgia Strait, Nanaimo • Courtenay / Comox • Salt Spring Island Ucluelet Chemainus Salt Spring Island • Cowichan Bay • Sidney you can spend family time hiking, biking, Pender Island Cowichan Bay Sidney • Galiano Island • Sooke beachcombing or kayaking along the idyllic Brentwood Bay Sooke Victoria • Langley • Tofino Sunshine Coast. Choose a unique vacation package • Madeira Park • Tsawwassen from one of our south coast destinations, or ask our travel • Nanaimo • Ucluelet • North Vancouver • Vancouver consultants about customized package options. • Parksville • Victoria • Pender Island • Whistler Three easy ways to book: • Port Hardy • bcferries.com/vacations • 1-888-BC FERRY Ext. 3 (Canada & US) • BC Ferries Vacations Centre 1010 Canada Place, Vancouver, BC

*Plus GST and surcharges. Price listed reﬂ ects a 2-night stay at the Sandman Hotel Vancouver City Centre. Prices quoted are per person in Canadian dollars based on double occupancy and include round-trip ferry between Metro Vancouver and Vancouver Island for two adults and one car. Based on availability. Some restrictions may apply. BC Reg. 48839. 22 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast

SOUTH COAST GETAWAYS

BRINGING IDEAS TO LIFE

hen you get close enough to the community dock at the CLEARING THE PATH BC Ferries Buckley Bay terminal on Denman Island, FOR NEW IDEAS

you’ll see a piling with boxes attached to it. You may also More than 80 BC Ferries employees have W notice dark purple birds flipping and diving overhead. stepped up as SeaForward volunteers, and they’re split into teams led by “champions.” The birds are purple martins, the largest tion, sustainability and community-build- When employees have ideas they want to species of North American swallow, and on ing activities, along with new initiatives, pursue, they can formally request resourc- the piling are nest boxes that were installed under a single banner called SeaForward. es, such as time or funding, to move the by BC Ferries employees back in 2003. Corrine Storey, vice-president of cus- idea forward. Purple martins are a vulnerable species; the tomer service at BC Ferries and executive Storey says employees drive about employees who installed the boxes wanted to sponsor of SeaForward, says the program 80 per cent of ideas. There’s an increased help them out. embraces efforts employees have been awareness that small efforts yield big results Individual efforts like this one have making for years. — such as one employee carrying a garbage been happening at BC Ferries for decades. “There were so many initiatives,” she bag to collect debris on her walk to work on The company thought it could do an even says. “We said, ‘We have to wrap our arms Salt Spring Island, or another initiating the better job by putting its existing conserva- around this.’” use of owl nest boxes instead of pest-control chemicals at Tsawwassen. “SeaForward has empowered our employees to work on initiatives that Biologist Leslie James, BC Ferries Manager, Environment, says she’s seen they’re passionate about… I think that’s been a big part of the success.” some truly creative solutions proposed by

Courtesy BC Ferries. — Leslie James, BC Ferries Manager, Environment employees. “SeaForward has empowered

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 23 our employees to work on initiatives that COLLABORATING FOR they’re passionate about in their commu- CONSERVATION nities and throughout the organization,” 100 James says. “I think that’s been a big part of Orca sightings* James says BC Ferries is also taking un- the success.” precedented steps in the conservation of Currently, BC Ferries is focused on cetaceans (which include whales, dolphins giving all employees the opportunity to and porpoises). BC Ferries is the first ferry participate in the program; in the future, operator in Canada to write a policy/best the company plans to invite customers to management practices around cetaceans, contribute to a variety of environmental and the company is working closely with and conservation initiatives. Fisheries and Oceans Canada, or DFO, to monitor whales in the region. BC Ferries has worked with the DFO to GREEN MARINE install hydrophones (underwater micro- phones) to track whale populations in In May 2015, BC Ferries became a certified habitats like Tsawwassen and Sturdies Bay. member of Green Marine, a voluntary 200 Meanwhile, the fleet is recording real-time Humpbacks environmental certification program for spotted* whale sightings, and sharing this informa- the North American marine industry tion with researchers at the DFO. “We’ve whose members include ship owners, ports, been capturing sightings since 1975,” James terminals and shipyards. says. “Now it’s gone fleet-wide.” Membership in Green Marine helps to formalize the company’s commitment to constantly improve its environmental 300 INVISIBLE PROGRESS Dolphins spotted* performance. The SeaForward program is helping BC Ferries to realize this commit- The SeaForward program is a year old this ment, and it’s already smoothing the path summer. If you’re on a BC Ferries vessel, its for larger projects. impact will be apparent in what you don't Currently, BC Ferries is eliminating see — plastic bags and Styrofoam cups, for paper plates company-wide, while expand- *Annual sightings example. In the future, when you’re aboard ing a composting and recycling program one of the fleet’s vessels powered by natural for the fleet and terminals. Storey says it’s a | THE SEAFORWARD PILLARS | gas, you won’t notice the smell of diesel. massive undertaking that requires collab- What you will notice, James says, is the oration between management, employees enthusiasm and pride of the crew. “People and SeaForward volunteer teams. “The 1 2 3 are happy and excited and they’re talking employees are the ones that work on the SUSTAINABLE CONSERVATION COMMUNITY about it — which is great!” ships and at the terminals,” she says. “We OPERATIONS WELL-BEING For Storey, SeaForward is an expression want to ensure that the solution meets the of what have always been the company’s needs that they’ll have to deal with on a deepest values. “This program is going to be daily basis.” the future of BC Ferries.”  Top, istockphoto.com;Top, middle and bottom, Thinkstock.

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OB-16-Overweita DPS.indd All Pages 2016-04-18 10:02 AM | NEW TO THE FLEET | BY COLLEEN FRIESEN ART AFLOAT

New Salish-Class vessels pay homage to the past while sailing into the future

t’s not unusual to spot a commissioned to create the dramatic to replace soon-to-be-retired ships. whale in the Salish Sea. artwork for the Salish Orca. Her design will Thirty-seven artists responded to the But when you see a styl- wrap around the entire body of the ship. call. A jury of First Nations artist peers and ized traditional Coast “I’m from the Wolf Clan,” says Gait. “So BC Ferries representatives narrowed the Salish orca skimming what I designed is more than just images of 37 down to nine. The nine then submitted the ocean’s surface — whales. It is whales caught in the moment their design concepts, from which three especiallyI one that appears to be transform- of transforming into wolves.” winning artists were chosen, ensuring a ing into a wolf — you know you’re seeing Gait’s commission, along with those of diversity of art and expression for each of something special. fellow artists John Marston and Thomas the three new vessels. That sight will become reality within Cannell, whose works will grace the Salish The artists each refined their pieces to a year, as the first of three new BC Ferries Eagle and the Salish Raven respectively, is get their appearance just right. Gait says she intermediate-class vessels, the Salish Orca, the result of a unique partnership between wanted to ensure the orcas appeared to be begins sailing between Comox and Powell BC Ferries and the First Peoples’ Cultural skimming just above the waterline. River. The ship will be a 107-metre (352- Council. The two put out a call for Coast “When I do anything now, I think about foot) canvas of First Nations images. Salish artists to create original designs to be my ancestors who lived before me, of how we Artist Darlene Gait of Esquimalt was applied to the three new vessels being built survived and are still alive,” she says.

28 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast ART AFLOAT

| CLEANER AND MORE EFFICIENT |

Historic names and the evolv- cleaner and more efficient fuel source has a number of gas significantly reduces car- made with BC natural gas and ing Coast Salish art are not the plan, powering the Salish- advantages. bon dioxide emissions and produced right here in BC.” only dramatic differences to Class ferries with natural “With natural gas, we are other air contaminants such The new ships’ engines will be found on these new Salish gas. Arvind Ramakrishnan, able to supply an option for a as small particulate matter have dual-fuel capabilities, Class vessels. manager of natural gas for cleaner-burning fuel that has compared to diesel,” he adds. with the ability to run on BC Ferries has partnered transportation solutions at historically been less expen- “Natural gas also provides ultra-low sulphur diesel as with FortisBC to create a Fortis BC, says this energy sive than diesel fuel. Natural more certainty – it’s a BC fuel, well as natural gas.

HONOURING A HERITAGE Cannell’s Salish Raven, BC Ferries is help- belonging to these coastal communities are ing to ensure that First Nations culture con- called the Coast Salish. All three artists’ ancestors once paddled tinues to be recognized. The ships’ names Rich in storytelling, art and ritual, massive canoes in the same waters that and the Coast Salish images that will adorn Coast Salish cultures created longhouses, BC Ferries now navigates, a history that the exteriors of these new vessels recognize totem poles, blankets, weavings, sculpture, was recognized in 2010 when the entire and appreciate the importance of coastal engravings and carvings both massive area of coastal waters (which includes the First Nations societies. and fine, and developed intricate dances. Strait of Georgia, Strait of Juan de Fuca Human-like forms and representations of and Puget Sound) was renamed the animals and birds were, and still are, com- Salish Sea. RICH HISTORY mon subjects in Coast Salish art. Although the original nautical names The history of the Coast Salish also has are also still in use, the total body of water The temperate climate of the southern BC difficult periods. The Indian Act of 1876 now honours and pays homage to Coast coast contributed to a number of distinct, attempted to enforce cultural assimilation Salish First Nations people. thriving First Nations cultures, loosely on First Nations people. Between 1880 and As the Salish Orca enters service and linked by ethnicity and sometimes by 1951, traditional ceremonies such as the later in 2017, Marston’s Salish Eagle and language. Collectively, First Nations people potlatch, a gift-giving feast, were outlawed.

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 29 “When I do anything now, I think about my ancestors who lived before me, of how we survived and are still alive” — Coast Salish artist Darlene Gait

During this period, Coast Salish cultural Marston is an artist from the Stz’umi- Corrigan emphasizes that important histor- practices were forced underground. nus First Nation on Vancouver Island. His ical context. “The Coast Salish used many When Coast Salish art re-emerged in work will cover the Salish Eagle when that of the same routes that we are travelling the 1960s, it retained its traditional cultural vessel enters service in early 2017. “It’s an today. They were the first mariners of the significance, along with a new spirit of honour for me to have my artwork placed Salish Sea. And nothing can make a bigger resilience and hope for the future. upon one of the ferries. It makes me proud statement than a 107-metre ferry covered to be Coast Salish,” he says. “I think giving with Coast Salish art.” our art form such a big public presentation LAUNCHING WITH PRIDE helps create dialogue between non-First Nations and First Nations. It’s important EXCITED AND THRILLED With the launch of the Salish Orca, Salish to realize the history of our First Nations Eagle and Salish Raven, the storytelling and people here in BC. The Senior Chief Steward of the Queen of art of the Coast Salish people will find a “It helps us, and the next generation, to Burnaby, Margaret McDonagh, has been new medium. Each vessel will bear a unique understand what happened here.” with BC Ferries for 30 years, and will over- artistic design, and the commissioned art- The three new vessels will navigate the see the catering department of the Salish ists share the pride of revealing their art in same ocean that once held Coast Salish ca- Orca. She had the honour of christening such a dramatic and highly visible way. noes. BC Ferries President and CEO Mike the new vessel late last year.

30 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast “It's a big challenge to work with the art form and create things that are somewhat traditional but not based on traditional ceremony.” — Coast Salish artist John Marston

McDonagh is excited about the Coast Salish artwork and proud to introduce these new vessels — with their improved reliability and performance — to the BC Ferries fleet. “Like me, the rest of the crew is very excited. We’re thrilled at what it will be like for our passengers,” McDonagh says.

“I WANT EVERYONE TO SEE IT”

Creating art for the vessels presented a unique cultural challenge, as it required Coast Salish artists to produce traditional pieces that could be displayed outside the context of ceremony. Musqueam artist Cannell, whose art will cover the Salish Raven, entering service in mid-2017, acknowledges the challenge while welcoming a public showcase for the art form. “You’re seeing things that normally would not have been seen. But now, I actually prefer the public art to private commissions. I want everyone to see it.” Marston echoes the same thoughts: “For “You’re seeing things that normally would not have artists of my generation, it’s a big challenge been seen. But now, I actually prefer the public art to to work with the art form and create things that are somewhat traditional but not based private commissions. I want everyone to see it.” on traditional ceremony. The things that — Coast Salish artist Thomas Cannell are held within ceremony were in the past simply not made public.” 

Facing page, photo by Dean Kalyan; this page, top, photo by Ashley Marston; bottom, photo by Nick Didlick. onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 31 | MEET THE CREW | BY JESSICA NATALE WOOLLARD | PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN KALYAN

PICKING UP ON CUES

In January 2014, Parmar won a Victoria Hospitality Award for exceptional customer service. A passenger whose car battery had died nominated him after POSITIVELY he helped boost her vehicle and get her on board in time to make a chemothera- py appointment. He continued to check EXCEPTIONAL on her throughout the sailing to make sure she was comfortable. Captain Sidney Allison, one of four lad in his bright BC Ferries safety vest, Hardeep masters of the MV Klitsa, says Parmar Parmar greets passengers like old friends as he is able to read people. “There’s a reason a takes their tickets and welcomes them aboard the person smiles, there’s a reason a person MV Klitsa. It’s a beautiful day at the Brentwood frowns. He can pick up on cues,” he says. C Parmar’s outstanding reputa- Bay ferry terminal, but even the rainiest weather couldn’t put a tion among passengers has not gone damper on Parmar’s sunny personality. unnoticed by management, either. His supervisor Sean Westwood, BC Ferries The driver of a silver pickup truck Life is busy for Parmar, who is mar- catering superintendent for the south opens his door to greet Parmar with a ried and has two children — a daughter, coast, asked him to join a working group warm handshake. “Heading up-island 16, and a son, 8. in BC Ferries’ customer service program. again?” Parmar asks, and the two chat. A BC Ferries employee since 2010, he “We wanted to find out what he was At the next car, he asks the driver says passengers on a ship are like citizens doing to be earning so much positive how her father is doing. When he spots of a small town. “Everyone coming on feedback,” Westwood says — especially a woman dragging her luggage, he runs board has a need,” he says. “They’re hap- since in the customer service sector it’s to her side and takes over the hauling py, sad, sick, going to weddings, funerals. much more typical for people to contact duties — she shouldn’t have to struggle It’s a new town every two hours.” management about negative experiences with bags, he says. And it’s a town where he could rather than positive ones. Interactions like these are all in a probably be elected mayor. Parmar The group found that Parmar’s day’s work for Parmar, 53, a customer has received plenty of praise: “He is sterling reputation was built on three service attendant on the Mill Bay-Brent- so friendly and makes the trip just a qualities: professionalism, greeting wood Bay route with BC Ferries since little more pleasant,” reads one note a people with a smile and communicating 2010. His philosophy: “Passengers customer sent to BC Ferries. with passengers. Those qualities are should leave a ferry happier than when Passenger Jay Creasey, 16, of Vic- now built into the BC Ferries customer they come on board.” toria says Parmar seems like “the kind service program. So he sits with elderly guests trav- of guy who’d find $500 in a wallet and Parmar’s personable demeanour elling alone; he soothes crying toddlers return it.” Adds Brentwood Bay’s Barb and friendly face make it easy to open with sweet treats; he asks families about Whittington: “He’s kind and fun. I’m up to him. His interest in people is gen- hockey games, doctors’ appointments always glad when he’s on.” uine; his cheerfulness unforced. and summer vacations. And he salutes Parmar, however, doesn’t think “People come on board and grace passengers as they drive off the ferry, he does anything special — he’s just us with their presence,” Parmar says. wishing them well on their trips. interested in people. “In the six minutes “We’re part of their day.” I interact with someone, I want to build Says passenger Al Tom: “I feel fortu- a meaningful relationship,” he says. nate to have Hardeep take my ticket.”  A SMALL TOWN S | THE ROUTE | Parmar was born and raised in the Cowichan Valley. A child of immigrants Often described as Vancouver Island’s “most beautiful shortcut,” the Brentwood from India, he grew up amid a close- Bay-Mill Bay route is a scenic trip across the Saanich Inlet. It’s a time-saver for anyone knit community, many of whom — heading up-island from the Swartz Bay terminal, bypassing a long drive around the including Parmar’s family — worked in inlet and over the Malahat Summit. Fresh air and beautiful views are among the perks Vancouver Island’s forestry industry. of this 25-minute crossing. There are nine sailings daily.

32 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast “Everyone coming on board has a need. They’re happy, sad, sick, going to weddings, funerals. It's a new town every two hours.”

— Hardeep Parmar, customer service attendant, MV Klitsa

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BY ANDREW FINDLAY

WHERE THE SURF MEETS THE TREES

ist seeps through the Sitka spruce and western red cedars a North Pacific plunge. The vibrant green of towering above Sombrio Beach. Sunlight glistening on forest and surge of sea are in your face. ferns and the call of a raven complete the impression that Land and sea are in the souls of the people who live here — people like M I’m standing in an Emily Carr painting. Frederique and Sinclair Philip, proprietors of Sooke Harbour House, a headquarters Two surfers bob in the water, seeking deep breath and slip into the water astride for culinary adventure on Vancouver the sweet spot. Down the beach, a solitary my board, bracing for the splash of 12°C Island. Chances are a fisherman down the stand-up paddleboarder makes her way out water against my face. road caught the spot prawns you’re eating near the mouth of the creek, where tea- Although the Strait of Juan de Fuca at the restaurant the same day. In 1979, long coloured water rich in forest tannins blends coastline between Sooke and Port Ren- before slow food was trendy, the Philips with the sea. Doffing outerwear, I wriggle frew is a mere 60-minute drive from the purchased the intimate, aging guesthouse into my wetsuit and step past intertidal shopping, dining and nightlife of Victoria, overlooking the sea and began practising pools on boulders slick with rockweed that it may as well be a world away. There’s a their form of extreme culinary localism. pops underfoot like bubble wrap. wildness and a dynamism to this stretch of Surfing also has its own enthusiastic

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 35 two others in the water at Sombrio. I surf require six adults with fully outstretched so infrequently that each time almost feels arms to encircle. like the first. The sensation of having mere If the Red Creek Fir is one of Cana- centimetres of fiberglass and foam between da’s tallest, the trees of Avatar Grove are your body and the powerful Pacific Ocean some of the strangest and most surreal, thrills. Two hours pass in an instant. cedars with massive burls that appear like I ride an easy wave toward the shore, gargoyles — or the megaflora specimens shoulders fatigued from paddling, a slight from the 2009 film Avatar, after which the chill permeating my wetsuit. After emerging grove was named. Roughly 15 minutes of 1 from the water, I stumble to the driftwood logging-road driving from Port Renfrew, shelter where I left a change of clothes. Avatar Grove is a time capsule of what val- A few steps away in the rainforest lies ley bottoms throughout Vancouver Island the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, a rugged would have looked like 150 years ago. coastal trek that can be tackled in day-long Douglas fir and western red cedars sections or in its entirety as a multi-day appear like the buttresses of an organic adventure. Sombrio Beach, where counter- cathedral rendered in infinite shades of culture families once fashioned makeshift green. The fact that such ancient trees could homes from salvaged materials, is one of be found so close to the historic logging four trailheads. The other access points in- town of Port Renfrew surprised everyone, 2 clude China Beach at the southern end near including T.J. Watt and Ken Wu, leaders of the popular point break at Jordan River, the Victoria-based Ancient Forest Alliance, Parkinson Creek and Botanical Beach at who discovered the grove and brought it to the north end, with its fantastic geological public attention a few years ago. formations and tide pools teeming with Avatar Grove has become a popular anemones, sea urchins, periwinkles and attraction, but today I have it to myself. I lie other creatures. on the spongy Later that day, after warming up in the forest floor at sun, I head north on Highway 14 to Port If the Red Creek Fir the base of one Renfrew, still just two hours from Victoria, is one of Canada’s its monumental but feeling ever more like a deeper dive into cedars and stare the wildness of Vancouver Island’s west tallest, the trees up as sunlight coast. At the marina, I meet hikers packing of Avatar Grove filters through gear into monstrous backpacks before are some of the the canopy. 3 boarding a water taxi for the short shuttle strangest and most Late in the to the north side of Port San Juan and the afternoon, I’m 1. Sooke Potholes Provincial Park West Coast Trail’s southern terminus. A surreal, cedars back in Sooke, 2. Bridge over Loss Creek along the week of strenuous but spectacular coastal with massive burls following signs Juan de Fuca Trail south of Sombrio hiking awaits them. to Sooke Pot- Beach in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park. I pull into Pacheedaht Campground, that appear like holes Provincial 3. Avatar Grove then stroll out to the beach where waves lap gargoyles. Park, a favourite the satiny sand. I’m gazing at the sea, but hangout for S | GETTING THERE | when I think of Port Renfrew, I think of locals and visitors wanting a dip in fresh trees — big trees. water. Giant holes in the bedrock, made by I’m close to where the San Juan River water swirling around boulders that were converges with the Gordon River, a bumpy deposited during the last glaciation some VANCOUVER (Tsawwassen) to VICTORIA (Swartz Bay) waterway popular with whitewater pad- 15,000 years ago, are the park’s star geolog- Crossing time: 1 HOUR, 35 MINUTES dlers. Over millennia, these rivers depos- ical attractions. ited deep, rich soils that, when combined Easing into one of these pools, I relax This was the first route operated by with a steady deluge of Pacific moisture, and look back on an amazing day explor- BC Ferries when the service launched make for ideal tree-growing conditions. ing the riches of this stretch of Vancouver in 1960. It includes some of the most Less than three kilometres from Port Island coast — so wild, yet so close to the beautiful scenery on the south coast. Renfrew, accessible via a four-wheel-drive creature comforts and attractions of the From Tsawwassen, the ferry crosses the Georgia Strait and reaches the scenic road, the forest giant known as the Red provincial capital.  Active Pass before passing through the Creek Fir soars nearly 75 metres skyward. Southern Gulf Islands and arriving in This is believed to be Canada’s largest Andrew Findlay is a Comox Valley- Swartz Bay. There are up to 17 round-trip standing fir tree — it was a seedling when based freelance journalist. His sailings daily depending on time of year. Vikings landed at L’Anse aux Meadows assignments have taken him to five National Historic Site in Newfoundland continents, and he has surfed, biked, S a millennium ago. Its circumference is a hiked and eaten his way around the FOR SAILING SCHEDULES AND RESERVATIONS VISIT bcferries.com whopping 12.5 metres, a girth that would south coast of Vancouver Island. © Alamy Stock Photo.

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onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 37 Sidney BIA BC Ferries Ad Spread • Print • March 14/16 ADVERTISING FEATURE centre/fold ADVERTISING FEATURE

YOUR ISLAND TRIP ITINERARY: ESCAPE Sidney by the Sea 5 6 Discover the perfect blend of Sidney, BC is the gateway to your Vancouver Island Canada’s Only Booktown contemporary style and comfort adventure. Below is a suggested itinerary for the perfect at our boutique hotel overlooking the Salish Sea Spring or Summer day in this vibrant seaside town.

To fully experience all that Sidney and the surrounding region has to 1 offer you need to spend at least two days to soak it all in. July & August) and the Torque Masters Car Show Extravaganza (August) Rich in history and surrounded in Call toll free 1.866.659.9445 just to name a few. Be sure to catch a show at Mary Winspear Centre (5), Stay Longer. Read More! [email protected] natural beauty, Sidney is the the art & culture hub of Sidney. www.sidneypier.com gateway to Vancouver Island. sidneybooktown.ca Complete with a vibrant Sidney is known as Canada’s only Booktown so be sure to peruse the boutique-shopping district (1) 5 independent bookstores during your visit. If you are bringing little Brentwood Bay & Canoe Cove (next and many quaint dining options, you won’t know where to start. To to Swartz Bay) on Vancouver Island ones, the Shaw Centre for the Salish Sea (6) the BC Aviation Join the Adventure! complete the Sidney experience, Victoria Distillers, the only waterfront Museum (7) and the Sidney Museum (8) offer special hands-on Open Daily 250-665-7411 distillery on Vancouver Island will open in May 2016. Complete with a experiences not to be missed! ASK ABOUT THE tasting room and cozy lounge with sweeping views of Mount Baker and SIDNEY Kayaks Rentals ADVANTAGE! the Salish Sea the distillery will impress even the most discerning 7 Canoes Lessons libation connoisseur. SUPs Tours The waterfront in Sidney offers many experiences including the Town’s sculpture walk (2) and historic walking tour. Be sure to visit with local fisherman as you stroll down the iconic 2 Sidney 8 fishing pier (3). You can also hop on a whale We also offer watching (4) or guided kayak tour right from the Kayak Tours & Rentals waterfront with Sidney Whale Watching. If you Number of want to visit the nearby wine region, you can do days to sidneywhalewatching.com PaciﬁcaPaddle.com so on your way to the world-famous Butchart spend here 1-888-656-7599 Gardens, only a 15-minute drive from Sidney.

If you happen to be visiting during the summer season, you can enjoy a host of special events including the Sidney Street Market (Thursday PLAN YOUR TRIP nights May to September), Summer Sounds outdoor concerts (Sunday’s Sidney Destination Information The Cedarwood Inn & Suites distinctlysidney.ca thecedarwood.ca

3 BC Ferries The Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa bcferries.com sidneypier.com 4 Washington State Ferries Sidney Waterfront Inn & Suites wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/ sidneywaterfrontinn.com

COHO Ferry Beacon Inn cohoferry.com thebeaconinn.com

Van Isle Marina Victoria Airport Travelodge vanislemarina.com travelodge.ca

Port Sidney Marina Best Western Emerald Isle portsidney.com bwemeraldisle.com

| | 7.875 inches 38 onBoard magazine 2016 #ShareTheCoast centre/fold

OB-16-Sidney Business.indd All Pages 2016-04-18 9:44 AM Sidney BIA BC Ferries Ad Spread • Print • March 14/16 ADVERTISING FEATURE centre/fold ADVERTISING FEATURE

3 BC Ferries The Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa bcferries.com sidneypier.com 4 Washington State Ferries Sidney Waterfront Inn & Suites wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/ sidneywaterfrontinn.com

COHO Ferry Beacon Inn cohoferry.com thebeaconinn.com

Van Isle Marina Victoria Airport Travelodge vanislemarina.com travelodge.ca

Port Sidney Marina Best Western Emerald Isle portsidney.com bwemeraldisle.com

7.875 inches | centre/fold onboardmagazine.ca 2016 39

OB-16-Sidney Business.indd All Pages 2016-04-18 9:44 AM Take in endless views. Okanagan Retreats Sip the finest wines. 2-night stay from $ * Travel to the lake city of Port Hardy Kamloops 209 Kelowna for mountain Vernon per person/dbl. occ. Merritt vistas, horseback riding Powell River Kelowna

Madeira Park and lakeside watersports. Courtenay/ Secret Cove Packages include round-trip ferry Comox Langdale Penticton Horseshoe Bay Hope travel for two adults and one car, two With over 120 nearby wineries, Vancouver Departure Bay Tsawwassen Osoyoos nights’ accommodation, and extras. treat your palette to Thompson Nanaimo

Okanagan’s world-famous wines. Swartz Bay Further north you’ll discover the scenic town of Victoria Vernon, surrounded by lakes and golf courses, or you can head south to the desert town of Osoyoos for more local wineries. Choose a unique vacation package DESTINATIONS

from one of our destinations in the Okanagan, or ask our travel consultants about • Kamloops • Penticton customized package options. • Kelowna • Vernon • Osoyoos Three easy ways to book: • bcferries.com/vacations • 1-888-BC FERRY Ext. 3 (Canada & US) • BC Ferries Vacations Centre 1010 Canada Place, Vancouver, BC

*Plus GST and surcharges. Price listed reﬂ ects a 2-night stay at the Spirit Ridge at Nk’Mip Resort, Osoyoos. Prices quoted are per person in Canadian dollars based on double occupancy and include round-trip ferry between Vancouver Island and Metro Vancouver for two adults and one car. Based on availability. Some restrictions may apply. BC Reg. 48839. 40 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast

OKANAGAN RETREAT

NET RESULTS The west coast’s once-vibrant fish-canning industry’s tale is one of hard work and enduring communities

s European settlers began to arrive on the Canadian west coast, the more entrepreneurial among them recognized the profit potential of the fish that lived in the region’s waters. Starting around 1870, A salmon canneries began springing up along the coast, allowing BC-caught fish to be sold wherever the rapidly expanding rail and sea transport network could take them. Those early canneries have long been silent. But many are finding new life as tourist attractions and testaments to a brief but important period in Canada’s history. GOGCS Archives, CFC-3-5-3 GOGCS Archives,

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 41 Top left: Women work at a patching table, checking for underweight cans and Georgia Cannery Historic Site lets visitors see the product and process (Parks Canada adjusting the amount of salmon as needed, date unknown, (GOGCS Archives, CFC-3-21-7). photos). Bottom left: the Tallheo Cannery Guest House, Bella Coola. Bottom right, Top right: St. Jean’s Cannery & Smokehouse, Nanaimo. Middle photos: the Gulf of canning herring at the Gulf of Georgia Cannery, 1945 (GOGCS Archives, CFC-3-5-3).

42 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast A LIVING MONUMENT Cannery, three parallel canning lines. The fish in each can was checked and adjusted. canning process began at a “sliming table” Not that you got to choose. And no matter Clad in red-and-white siding, the Gulf of and ended in a pressure oven called a “re- where you stood, you went home each day Georgia Cannery building pushes out into tort” at the far end. Between these stations smelling like fish. Steveston Harbour on wooden pilings. were slicers, seamers and patchers. When the tide rises, the water comes right Today, visitors to the cannery see a re- up to the floor of the 122-year-old structure. constructed 1930s-’50s era canning line. It’s DIVERSE WORKFORCE The building is a living monument to detailed, complete — and tidy. The muse- what was once a vibrant industry on the um’s marketing and visitor services manag- About 200 salmon canneries once operated British Columbia coast. At the height of er, Mimi Horita, says the scene would have on the BC coast from Steveston to Prince BC’s fish-canning industry in the first half been a little different a century ago. Rupert. The industry thrived from the of the 20th century, there were up to 15 Back then, fish spilled in a shimmering 1880s until the 1950s, packing sockeye, canneries in Steveston alone. The village wave across the wooden floor. Butchers’ coho, pink, chum and spring salmon hauled

was nicknamed Salmonopolis. Many of knives moved in a blur and everything was from the mouths of the Fraser, Skeena and today’s residents of Steveston, which is now damp and slick. The air was dense with Nass rivers, at Rivers Inlet on the central part of the city of Richmond, have family steam and the smell of machine oil and fish. coast, and along the Inside Passage. histories tied to the canning industry. Machines clattered, retorts hissed and wet Canning villages like Steveston, and Those families were among the many rubber boots squeaked. the communities that formed seasonally in who lobbied to save the Gulf of Georgia If you worked the sliming table, your remote cannery sites farther north, brought Cannery from demolition after it shut down hands froze in icy water. If you worked the people from diverse cultural groups into in 1979. The effort was successful; Parks retorts, you sweltered in steam. “Probably close quarters. They lived separately but Canada took over the cannery in 1984, and the only comfortable spot was right in the worked together: expert fishers from coastal the site opened as a museum in 1994 — the middle,” Horita says. “You’d want to be at First Nations communities and Japan, building’s centennial year. the patching station,” where the amount of skilled butchers from China, overseers from Like most cannery buildings, it was built in an L shape. The short section of the L was where whole fish were brought At the height of BC’s fish-canning industry in the first half of the in, cleaned and had their heads and tails removed. The long section is where the can- 20th century, there were up to 15 canneries in Steveston alone.

This page, courtesy Gulf of Georgia Cannery. ning line ran — or, at the Gulf of Georgia The village was nicknamed Salmonopolis.

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 43 | FROM CATCH TO CAN | “Those old canneries were high-volume, lower-quality, and depended primarily on a regional resource” — Steve Hughes, St. Jean’s Cannery & Smokehouse

Norway and Europe. Women worked the the fish — it’s more of a niche market.” sliming tables, packed and patched cans The St. Jean’s canning line uses 1950s and repaired nets. Men caught, cut, seamed and 1960s-era seamer machines to vacuum and steamed. seal the cans. Hughes takes pride in the fact By 1950, fish stocks were depleted and that St. Jean butchers and packs cans by salmon canning was becoming expensive. hand, but he laughs at the idea of cleaning Meanwhile, improved refrigeration and fish with water pumped straight from a Here’s how salmon went from swimming transportation eroded the need for coastal river delta. St. Jean’s is a place of sterile to steaming in the early-20th century canneries. By the 1970s, BC canneries were containers and stainless steel. “There’s no heyday of BC’s fish cannery industry. almost gone — but not entirely. fish on the floor,” Hughes says. “The fish are treated with ozonated water, and there 1 CATCHING 6 FILLING are fridges and freezers everywhere. Things Salmon are pulled from Each slice is placed in a “THINGS HAVE CHANGED” have changed.” the water up to two can along with a pinch tonnes at a time using of salt. In the city of Nanaimo is a low blue-and- gill nets. OLD CANNERY, NEW LIFE 7 PATCHING white building that looks like a warehouse 2 and smells like smoked fish. In front of the SORTING Cans are inspected and The catch is poured onto the volume adjusted for building is an enormous fish can, which is The Tallheo Cannery Guest House sits near the cannery’s receiving consistency. itself a small building containing a meeting the mouth of the Bella Coola River on the floor and separated by room and a tiny visitor’s centre. It’s the North Bentinck Arm, part of a Pacific inlet species. 8 SEAMING headquarters of St. Jean’s Cannery that reaches deep into the mountainous wil- A vacuum sealer sucks & Smokehouse. derness of northern BC. In the 1940s, it had 3 BUTCHERING air out of the can and St. Jean’s got its start in 1961, just as about 300 employees, many of them Nuxalk The salmon lose their clenches the lid on. In most traditional canneries were shutting First Nations people from nearby and Chi- heads, tails and innards the early days this was their doors. It began as a backyard oper- nese workers brought up from Vancouver. to a lightning-fast done by hand and the butcher with a sharp cans sealed with lead ation that sold smoked oysters. General Now, it plays host to tourists and nature knife. solder. manager Steve Hughes says St. Jean’s lovers who rent rooms in its restored bunk- diverse product line — which includes alba- house. Managers Garrett and Skye Newkirk 4 SLIMING TABLE 9 STEAMING core tuna and specialty food items as well as have added some modern amenities to the Women rinse the fish The cans go in a retort salmon — has helped it weather some of the 12-room facility. “It’s a rustic, cozy expe- using faucets that pump (a pressure oven) that challenges that contributed to the decline of rience,” says Garrett, whose father bought water straight from heats them to 117°C the old cannery industry. the cannery in 1980. “We’ve tried to keep the river. (242°F) for about 90 minutes. The company also processes catches for everything as original as possible.” 5 SLICING sport anglers, and the ability to sell prod- The location is remote; northern can- Gang knives (like 10 SHIPPING ucts online helps too. nery sites were built where fish, not people, massive hard-boiled- After cooling for about “Those old canneries were high-volume, naturally congregated. egg cutters) slice the 24 hours, the cans are lower-quality, and depended primarily on a Newkirk believes the industry’s history salmon into one-pound labelled and packed to regional resource,” Hughes says. is worth preserving. “Many parts of it are and half-pound can- ship — most will go to “We’re higher-end and selective with disappearing. It should not be forgotten.”  sized pieces. Europe.

| WEST COAST CANNERIES |

North Pacific Cannery National Cassiar Cannery, Tallheo Cannery Guest House, Historic Site, Port Edward, est. 1889. Prince Rupert, est. 1903. Bella Coola, est. 1916. Invites Open May–September, this preserved One of a dozen canneries near the guests to stay in a restored rustic cannery site on the Skeena River offers mouth of the Skeena River, the Cassiar bunkhouse (shown right) and enjoy guided tours and historical exhibits. ran for 80 years. Four waterfront tours, hiking and wildlife viewing. northpacificcannery.ca heritage guest houses available. bellacoolacannery.com cassiarcannery.com Gulf of Georgia Cannery, St. Jean’s Cannery & Smokehouse, Richmond, est. 1894. Butedale Cannery, Princess Royal Nanaimo, est. 1961. This contemporary Once the largest building of its kind, Island, est. 1911. Remote heritage site cannery hand packs Pacific seafood. known as the “monster cannery.” on the northeast side of Princess Royal Its products are sold at locations on Today, it’s a museum year-round. Island includes remains of original the BC coast and online. stjeans.com gulfofgeorgiacannery.org cannery structures. rdks.bc.ca Top, © AlamyTop, Stock Photo; bottom, courtesy Talheo Cannery Guest House.

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 45 | VANCOUVER | BY COLLEEN FRIESEN

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL This intriguing coastal city reveals its secrets to those who live there

46 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast et’s go,” I shout, pushing off from the Village Dock into Vancouver’s False Creek. We’re surrounded by glass towers, and to the east we can see the oversized geodesic L dome of Science World at Telus World of Science. I look over at my husband Kevin in his yellow kayak and red vest that 1 pops against the pale sky and navy sea.

The blade of my paddle pulls against the The sand and rocks rasp against the hull. water. I keep my grip loose, let the blades I pull my legs out of the cockpit and drag the flatten as they take their turns cutting kayak up the beach. We spread our blanket through the air. I feel like a seal as I slip and picnic among the driftwood logs. past ducks and geese, fancy boats in the Vancouver is known for a lot of things 2 marinas and skyscrapers overhead. — Stanley Park, the Museum of Anthro- This is a far cry, I think, from the scene pology at UBC, Chinatown and incredible that met Capt. George Richards, the largely cultural diversity. The city’s metropolitan unsung Royal Navy officer from Cornwall, population is 2.4 million, almost 52 per England who surveyed this place (which cent of whom speak an immigrant language would indeed turn out to be a “false” creek) at home. Residents know that Vancouver’s in 1859. He would have seen the fishing nets truly international population means sub- and weirs of Snauq, a thriving First Nations lime food, from sushi to sidewalk trucks, village that stood on the east side of what is taco stands and fancy fusion. 3 now Kitsilano Point. But for me, the perfect meal is a fresh The inlet was five times the size it is baguette from A Bread Affair spread with now, but even so it had been overlooked Salt Spring Island Cheese Co. goat cheese earlier by captains George Vancouver and and fresh basil from my patio garden. Dionisio Alcalá Galiano, British and Span- Vancouver is a city immersed in nature. ish explorers who met by coincidence in Mountains rise behind the North Shore 1792 near what’s now the city of Vancouver Towers, and the waters that surround the city and agreed to share mapping duties. are as much a part of Vancouver as its streets In the decades since, much of False and buildings. 4 Creek was filled in to accommodate indus- Like most locals, I like wandering Com- try. In fact, filling it in entirely was being mercial Drive or Granville Island. I make 1. Quarry Rock seriously considered up until the 1950s. time to explore the shops of Crosstown, 2. Telus World of Science Fortunately, that plan was abandoned. Gastown and Mount Pleasant. But it’s the 3. Pacific Spirit Regional Park A gull circles and cries above, flashing natural side of Vancouver that truly feels 4. Lighthouse Park white in the sun. I remind myself to drop like home. Vancouverites have a reputa- my shoulders. The low vantage point of the tion for being environmentally aware and | LET THE GAMES BEGIN | kayak combined with the push-pull action health-conscious — but perhaps that’s a of the paddle creates a soothing sense of by-product of living close to so much earth, Vancouver will again step into the sporting balance. It’s in a kayak that I feel most mossy forest, sea and stream. spotlight this summer as the Americas Masters connected with the ocean. Once you get to know this one-of-a- FalseGames Creek take place • creeksidekayaks.ca Aug. 26 to Sept. 4, 2016. An We’ve just passed under the Burrard kind coastal city and its deep natural con- estimated 10,000-plus athletes, along with Granville Island • ecomarine.com Street Bridge. We’ve been paddling for nection, you may find it hard to leave.  their coaches, families and supporters, will about an hour since leaving our home in arrive to experience the city and compete Northin this Vancouver,first-ever Americas BC • takayatours.com regional event, Olympic Village, zig-zagging past floating Colleen Friesen is a Vancouver- Thesea companion First Nations to the tours World run Masters out of Porpoise Games. Bay homes, boats at anchor, foot ferries and based writer and artist. She loves ProvincialVancouver’s Park success in Sechelt as host on the of theSunshine 2010 WinterCoast stand-up paddleboarders. exploring her city and the rest (aOlympics 40-minute made ferry the ride city from a natural Horseshoe choice Bay, for just the “Do you want to try this beach?” Kevin of the planet and firmly believes northwestcompetition. of the Featuring city). 25 different team and calls. I nod and we line up for a direct run that the salt on a margarita glass individual sports in venues all over the city, the

Facing page, © Alamy Stock Photo; this page, photos 3 © Alamy 1and Stock Photo, photo 2 and 4 Shutterstock. West Vancouver, BC • talaysay.com at the shore of Hadden Park. contributes to a balanced diet. Games are open to competitors age 30 and up. americasmastersgames2016.com

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 47 New Vessels

Salish Orca Built: 2016, Poland Maximum Speed: 16.2 knots* Passenger & Crew Capacity: 600 Built to replace the 50-year old Queen of Burnaby on the Comox – Powell River route, the name “Salish Orca” was chosen to honour the Coast Salish people and the Salish Sea where the ship will operate. This is a dual-fuel vessel, capable of running on natural gas or ultra-low sulphur diesel. Using primarily natural gas to fuel new vessels will result in reduced emissions.

* Estimated maximum speed Baynes Sound Connector

Baynes Sound Connector Built: 2015, Vancouver Maximum Speed: 8.7 knots Our f leet Passenger & Crew Capacity: 150 For more information about our vessels, visit bcferries.com Joining the fleet as one of the world’s longest cable ferries, the Baynes Sound Connector officially entered service on the Buckley Bay – Denman Island route in February 2016. Operating the cable ferry in place of a regular vessel reduces greenhouse gas emissions by 480 tonnes of CO2 equivalent annually, equal to Powell River Queen Bowen Queen Nimpkish taking 100 cars off the road every year. This is the first cable ferry Built: 1965, Victoria Built: 1965, Victoria Built: 1973, Vancouver to be introduced to the BC Ferries fleet. Maximum Speed: 14.5 knots Maximum Speed: 14.5 knots Maximum Speed: 11 knots Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Capacity: 400 Capacity: 400 Capacity: 138

Mayne Queen Klitsa Kahloke Coastal Renaissance Built: 1965, Victoria Spirit of British Columbia Built: 1972, Vancouver Built: 1973, Vancouver Built: 2007, Germany Maximum Speed: 14.5 knots Built: 1993, Victoria Maximum Speed: 10 knots Maximum Speed: 10 knots Maximum Speed: 23 knots Passenger & Crew Maximum Speed: 19.5 knots Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Capacity: 200 Capacity: 400 Passenger & Crew Capacity: 150 Capacity: 2,100 Capacity: 1,604

Quadra Queen II Queen of Capilano Tachek Skeena Queen North Island Princess Built: 1969, Vancouver Built: 1991, Vancouver Built: 1969, Vancouver Built: 1997, Vancouver Built: 1958, Vancouver Maximum Speed: 12.5 knots Maximum Speed: 12.6 knots Maximum Speed: 12.5 knots Maximum Speed: 17.3 knots Maximum Speed: 13 knots Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Capacity: 150 Capacity: 457 Capacity: 150 Capacity: 450 Capacity: 150

Kuper Queen of New Westminster Queen of Coquitlam Queen of Oak Bay Howe Sound Queen Built: 1985 - Lengthened in 2006 Built: 1964, Victoria Built: 1976, Vancouver Built: 1981, Victoria Built: 1964, Quebec Maximum Speed: 10 knots Maximum Speed: 20 knots Maximum Speed: 20.5 knots Maximum Speed: 20.5 knots Maximum Speed: 9.75 knots Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Capacity: 269 Capacity: 1,325 Capacity: 1,488 Capacity: 1,488 Capacity: 300

Kwuna Island Sky Coastal Celebration Built: 1975, Victoria Queen of Alberni Northern Adventure Built: 2008, Vancouver Built: 2008, Germany Maximum Speed: 9.5 knots Built: 1976, Vancouver Built: 2004 Maximum Speed: 16 knots Maximum Speed: 23 knots Passenger & Crew Maximum Speed: 21.0 knots Maximum Speed: 20.5 knots Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Capacity: 150 Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Capacity: 462 Capacity: 1,604 Capacity: 1,193 Capacity: 640

Spirit of Vancouver Island Queen of Burnaby Coastal Inspiration Queen of Surrey Built: 1994, Victoria Built: 1965, Victoria Queen of Cumberland Built: 2008, Germany Built: 1981, Vancouver Maximum Speed: 19.5 knots Maximum Speed: 16.5 knots Built: 1992, Vancouver Maximum Speed: 23 knots Maximum Speed: 20.5 knots Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Maximum Speed: 13 knots Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Capacity: 2,100 Capacity: 897 Passenger & Crew Capacity: 1,604 Capacity: 456 Capacity: 1,488

Queen of Nanaimo Quinsam Northern Expedition Quinitsa Queen of Cowichan Built: 1964, Victoria Built: 1982, Vancouver Built: 2009, Germany Built: 1977, Vancouver Built: 1976, Victoria Maximum Speed: 16.5 knots Maximum Speed: 12 knots Maximum Speed: 21 knots Maximum Speed: 9.75 knots Maximum Speed: 20.5 knots Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Capacity: 996 Capacity: 400 Capacity: 638 Capacity: 300 Capacity: 1,488

48 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast 2016.04.11_onBoardad.indd 1 2016-04-11 10:20 AM

onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 49 Where we sail With an expanding fleet of 35 vessels that serve up to 47 ports of call along the diverse communities on the BC coast, BC Ferries is the primary provider of ferry service in the province and one of the largest ferry operators in the world.

To the Alaska Highway

Terrace Smithers Prince Rupert 16 Masset

Kitimat

Prince George

Skidegate Sandspit 16 Alliford Bay To Jasper fjordland tweedsmuir recreation park Quesnel area

Klemtu Anahim Lake Ocean Falls Bella Nimpo Lake Coola 20

Hagensborg 97 McLoughlin Bay Shearwater Puntzi Lake Bella Bella Denny Island hakai Tatla Lake Alexis Williams Lake recreation Creek area

Banff

Lillooet 1 Port Hardy Sointula Railroad Port McNeill Alert Bay Highways Pemberton BC Ferries Routes 19 Cortes Island Alaska Marine Highway 99 Quadra Island Whistler Powell River Campbell River 19a Saltery Bay southern Horseshoe Bay 19 Texada Island Earls Cove 5 Comox 19a gulf islands Hornby Langdale Vancouver Denman Island Horseshoe Bay Nanaimo Island Bowen Hope 19 19a Gabriola Island Departure Island Vancouver 7 Harrison Hot Springs Tofino Port Alberni Bay 1 19 Duke Tsawwassen 4 Point Ucluelet Nanaimo Southern Gulf Islands Chemainus Tsawwassen (see inset) Chemainus Bellingham Thetis Island Port Renfrew Mill Bay Swartz Bay 14 Brentwood Bay Penelakut Island Sooke 5 Crofton Vesuvius Victoria Long Harbour Sturdies Bay, Galiano Island Salt Spring Island Village Bay, Mayne Island Fulford Harbour Saturna Island washington Otter Bay, Swartz Bay Pender Islands Seattle

Victoria

50 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast

WHERE WE SAIL

WHISTLER: MORE TO DO FROM TOP TO BOTTOM. STAY LONGER, SAVE MORE The high point of summer is waiting just 90 minutes from Vancouver, BC. Take in all that Whistler Village and the valley have to offer with postcard- perfect lakes and beaches, miles of walking and biking trails, up * to 40% four championship golf courses, and endless options for shopping SAVE OFF on a 4+ night stay and dining. Then, take a trip to the top of the world with the PEAK 2 PEAK 360 Season Pass. Discover the Guinness World Record- * breaking PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola, over 50 kilometres of hiking trails, up SAVE to 35% OFF mountaintop dining, sunset barbecues, bear viewing and more. on a 3+ night stay

up * PEAK 2 PEAK 360 SEASON PASS PURCHASE to 30% YOURS 5+ DAYS IN SAVE OFF $ ** on a 2+ night stay 74.95 + tax ADVANCE TO SAVE

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*Advertised percentage savings refers to savings on lodging and is available at participating properties only. **$74.95 season pass rate based on Adult, Regular season rate when booked 5+ days in advance. Walk-up Adult Regular season rate is $89.95 for a season pass. Senior, youth and child rates available at whistlerblackcomb.com. Offer valid summer 2016 and cannot be combined with any other offer. Some restrictions apply. onboardmagazine.ca | 2016 51 52 onBoard magazine | 2016 | #ShareTheCoast

BC FERRIES ON BOARD MAGAZINE 2016 Thursday, March 17, 2016 1:09:32 PM