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Cork, Kerry & Southwest Ireland Road Trips 1

Cork, Kerry & Southwest Ireland Road Trips 1

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

14 Road Trips

Southwest Blitz, 4 Days 1 Blitz the best of southwest ’s coast, countryside and cosmopolitan city life. (p17)

Ring of Kerry, 4 Days 2 Weave past jaw-dropping scenery as you circumnavigate the Iveragh Peninsula. (p29)

Dingle Peninsula, 3–4 Days 3 ’s ancient landscape is ringed by quaint fishing villages and spectacular beaches. (p41)

Shannon River Route, 4 Days 4 Meander alongside Ireland’s mightiest river and get out on the water too. (p51)

Dingle Peninsula Connor Pass (p47) ROLF G WACKENBERG/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS THIS BOOK Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson This 1st edition of Cork, Kerry & Southwest Ireland BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map Road Trips was researched and written by Neil of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Wilson. This guidebook was produced by the Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633­44. following: Cover photographs: Front: Jaguar driving between Destination Editor Clifton Wilkinson and , Pete Seaward/Lonely Sandie Kestell, Planet ©; Back: St Colman’s Cathedral and coloured Senior Product Editors Jessica Ryan houses, Cobh, Maurizio Rellini/AWL Images © Product Editor Rachel Rawling Senior Regional Cartographer Mark Griffiths Cartographer Alison Lyall Book Designer Gwen Cotter Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Imogen Bannister, Nigel Chin, Melanie Dankel, Carly Hall, Victoria Harrison, Kellie Langdon, Rosie Nicholson, Kristin Odijk, Simon Williamson Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Will Allen, Sasha Drew, Susan Paterson, Wibowo Rusli, Angela Tinson, Amanda Williamson

OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

124 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

INDEX

Blasket Islands 45 churches & cathedrals A 48 Cathedral 95 abbeys & friaries 19, 82, 105, boat tours 74, 83, 91 Holy Cross Church 87 106, 109 boating 91, 116 St Anne’s Church 77 accessible travel 123 border crossings 114 St Colman’s Cathedral 25 accommodation 13, 116, 117-18, Brandon Point 47 St Fin Barre’s Cathedral 63, 76 see also individual locations Bunratty 56-7 St Mary’s Cathedral 19, 53, costs 13 business hours 121 100 activities, see individual St Mary’s Collegiate Church activities 26, 75 Adare 55, 105-8 C Clarina 105 air travel 116 20, 35-6, 86-7 climate 12 Angela’s Ashes 100, 101 32-3 46-7 aquariums 44 car insurance 111 Cobh 24-5, 71-2 archaelogical sites, see car travel, see driving Connor Pass 95 historic sites & ruins 47 Cork City 24, 60-70, 76-7, 62 area codes 122 castles & forts 99 activities 61-4, 76-7 art galleries, see museums & Adare Castle 55, 105 drinking 67-8 galleries Ballycarbery Castle 33 eating 66-7 Askeaton 54, 105 Blackrock Castle 61 entertainment 68-9 ATMs 120, 121 25, 70 events 64 56 festivals 64 B Cahergall 33 history 60-1 Carrigogunnell Castle 105 nightlife 67-8 Ballina 52 54, 105 shopping 69 Ballingarry 108 Dún an Óir Fort 46 sights 61-4, 76-7 46 Dungarvan Castle 26-7 sleeping 64-6 Ballymaloe 73 Elizabeth Fort 63, 76 tourist information 69-70 23 King’s Castle 109 tours 64 beaches Leacanabuile 33 travel within 70 Banna Strand 95 City 53 walking tours 76-7, Beach 86 77 Portumna Castle & costs 13, 118, 119 Inch 43 Gardens 52 9, 10-11 Kilkee 56 38-9, 82 78-97 Rossbeigh Strand 32 Spike Island 71 County Limerick 98-109 44-5 Tynte’s Castle 26, 75 credit cards 120 Belvelly Smokehouse 72 cathedrals, see churches & Peninsula 32 Blarney Stone 25, 70 cathedrals currency 12 cell phones 13, 122 cycling 92 000 Map pages Church Island 35

125 food 64, 93 Grange Stone Circle 108-9 D music 23, 24, 64, 79 Muckross Abbey 82 dangers, see safety Puck Fair 32, 85 Riasc Monastic Settlement 46 Dingle Peninsula 9, 41-9, 90-5 regattas 47, 92 Rose of 48, 96 stone circles 36 Dingle Town 44, 91-5, 92 West Cork Chamber Music history, see individual locations disabilities, travellers with Festival 23 holidays 121 122-3 fishing 79 horse riding 36-5, 87 distilleries 91 food 13, 64, 118-20 diving 47 forts, see castles & forts dolphin-watching 44, 47, 56 I INDEX 70 drinking, see individual Inch 43 Fota Wildlife Park 24 locations Inisfallen 38

D-M Foynes 54, 105 driving 111-15 insurance 111, 120 friaries, see abbeys & friaries car hire 12, 111 internet 11, 13, 113, 117, 120 documents 111, 112 fuel 12, 114 driving licence 111 K fuel 12, 114 G kayaking 64, 83-4, 100-1 insurance 111 Gallarus Oratory 46 Kenmare 21, 36, 87-91 local tips 114, 115 galleries, see museums & Kilkee 56 maps 112 galleries Killaloe 52 parking 113-14 Gap of Dunloe 36-7, 84-5 road distances 112 gardens, see parks Killarney 19, 30, 42-3, 78-82, 80 road rules 111, 113 & gardens 20, 32, 85-6 safety 36, 112-13, 114, 115 genealogical centres 101 Kilmallock 109 websites 113 golf 35, 70, 79, 106 Kilrush 56 Dungarvan 26-7 91 45 L H lakes 37, 47, 82, 108 E health 120 language 12 electricity 118 historic buildings LGBTQI+ travellers 68, 119 emergencies 12 Bantry House 23 Limerick City 53-4, 98-105, 102 etiquette 120 Clock Gate Tower 74 activities 100-1 events, see festivals & events, Cork City Gaol 24 drinking 103-4 individual locations Derrynane House 20 eating 103 exchange rates 120 Derrynane National entertainment 104 Historic Park 35, 86 history 98-9 F Fota House 24 nightlife 103-4 shopping 104 Famine, the Great 24, 25, 33, 71 & Gardens 78 sights 99-100 festivals & events Knockreer House & Gardens sleeping 101-3 Celtic 47, 85 78-9 tourist information 104 Cork Jazz Festival 24 37, 82 travel within 104-5 Cork Oyster & Seafood Myrtle Grove 26 Loop Head 56 Festival 64 Tarbert Bridewell Jail & Lough Gur 108-9 Cork Pride 68 Courthouse 54 Cork World Book Fest 64 Youghal 75 Dingle Food & Wine historic houses 70 M Festival 93 historic sites & ruins, see maps 112, 113 film 24, 35, 64 also castles & forts markets 66, 72, 76 Fahan beehive huts 45 measures 121 Franciscan Friary 105 medical services 120 000 Map pages Gallarus Oratory 46 Midleton 25, 73-4

126 mobile phones 13, 122 Killarney National Park 19, Star Wars 87 money 12, 13, 120, 122 37, 42-3, 82-4 surfing 43, 47 motorcycle travel, see Tralee Wetlands Centre 48 swimming 56 driving mountain biking 109 O T mountains 33, 47 opening hours 121 Muckross Estate 37-8 Tarbert 54-6 museums & galleries 24, 25 taxes 122 Adaire Heritage Centre 55 P telephone 12, 13, 122 Blasket Centre 45 parks & gardens time 121 tipping 13 Celtic & Prehistoric Bantry House 23 INDEX Museum 44 Derrynane National Historic Titanic 24, 71

Cobh, The Queenstown Park 20, 35, 86 tourist information 122 M-Z Story 71 Fota House Arboretum 24 tours, see walking tours, boat Cork Butter Museum 63-4, Fota House Arboretum & tours, individual locations 77 Gardens 70 Tralee 48, 96 Cork Public Museum 61 Killarney House & Gardens transport 13, 116-23, see Crawford Art Gallery 61 78 also driving Crawford Municipal Art Knockreer House & Gardens travel seasons 12 Gallery 77 78-9 Dingle Peninsula Museum 46 Muckross House 37 V Foynes Flying Boat Portumna Castle Museum 54, 105 & Gardens 52 vacations 121 Frank McCourt Museum 100 Vandeleur Walled Garden 56 33 Hunt Museum 53-4, 99 parking 113-14 VAT refunds 122 Jameson Experience 73 photography 121 vegetarian & vegan travellers 119 Kenmare Heritage Portumna 52 Centre 21 public holidays 121 44 Kenmare Lace and Design visas 12, 123 Centre 21 R Kerry Bog Village Museum W 32 radio 111, 114-15 walking tours Kerry County Museum 48 Raleigh, Sir Walter 26 Cork 64 Lewis Glucksman Gallery Ring of Kerry 9, 29-39, 85-90 61, 63, 76 River Shannon 52 Cork City 76-7 Limerick City Gallery of Art road distances 112 Limerick City 101 54, 99-100 road rules 111, 113 Youghal 75 Lough Gur Heritage Centre Rossbeigh Strand 32 water sports 36, 47, 92 108 Rough Point Peninsula 47 Waterville 33-5 maritime 24, 26, 71 ruins, see historic sites & ruins weather 12 Muckross Traditional Farms websites 11, 13, 113, 117 82-3 weights 121 Old Market House Arts S whiskey 25, 73 Centre 26 safety 112-13, 114, 115, 121-2 wi-fi 13, 120 Skellig Experience heritage sea travel 116 wildlife reserves 24 centre 33 Shannon River 52 wildlife-watching 21, 37 music 112, 114-15 shopping, see individual locations Y N 88-9 Youghal 25-6, 74-5 national parks & nature Skellig Ring 33 reserves Slea Head 44-5 Glanteenassig Forest smoking 121 Z Recreation Area 47 36 zoos, see wildlife reserves Gougane Barra Forest Park 21 Spike Island 71

127 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR WRITER

NEIL WILSON Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. He has climbed and tramped in four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland’s Orkney Islands and the North- west Face of Half Dome in California’s Yosemite Valley.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 1st edition – Mar 2020 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 78868 648 8 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 2020 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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