FOOD SAFETY AND INFORMAL MARKETS Animal products are vital components of the diets and livelihoods of people across sub-Saharan Africa. They are frequently traded in local, informal markets and this can pose significant health risks. This book presents an accessible overview of these issues in the context of food safety, zoonoses and public health, while at the same time maintaining fair and equitable livelihoods for poorer people across the continent. The book includes a review of the key issues and twenty-five case studies of the meat, milk, egg and fish food sectors drawn from a wide range of countries in East, West and southern Africa, as part of the ‘Safe Food, Fair Food’ project. It gives a realistic analysis of food safety risk by developing a methodology of ‘participatory food safety risk assessment’, involving small-scale producers and consumers in the process of data collection in the data-poor environment often found in developing countries. This approach aims to ensure market access for poor producers, while adopting a realistic and pragmatic strategy for reducing the risk of food-borne diseases for consumers. Kristina Roesel is co-ordinator of the ‘Safe Food, Fair Food’ project, based at the International Livestock Research Institute, Nairobi, Kenya, and also a doctorate candidate at the Free University, Berlin, Germany. Delia Grace is Program Leader, Food Safety and Zoonoses, Integrated Sciences, at the International Livestock Research Institute, Nairobi, Kenya. FOOD SAFETY AND INFORMAL MARKETS Animal products in sub-Saharan Africa Edited by Kristina Roesel and Delia Grace First published 2015 by Routledge 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN Simultaneously published in the USA and Canada by Routledge 711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business © 2015 International Livestock Research Institute All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilized in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers. Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe. British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Food safety and informal markets : animal products in Sub-Saharan Africa / edited by Kristina Roesel and Delia Grace. pages cm Includes bibliographical references and index. 1. Food adulteration and inspection—Africa, Sub-Saharan. 2. Food— Africa, Sub-Saharan.—Safety measures. 3. Wildlife as food—Africa, Sub-Saharan. 4. Informal sector (Economics)—Africa, Sub-Saharan. I. Roesel, Kristina. II. Grace, Delia. TX360.A357F66 2014 363.19′2640967—dc23 2014019289 ISBN: 978-1-138-81873-6 (hbk) ISBN: 978-1-315-74504-6 (ebk) Typeset in Bembo by Keystroke, Station Road, Codsall CONTENTS List of illustrations ix List of contributors xiii Preface xv Acknowledgements xvii Abbreviations xix Executive summary xxi 1 Introduction 1 PART 1 Food safety in sub-Saharan Africa 9 2 Taking food safety to informal markets 11 3 Informal markets are not necessarily dangerous and formal markets are not necessarily safe 23 4 Hazards do not always translate into risks 31 5 Can participation improve food safety? 45 6 Farmers, traders and retailers are risk managers 69 7 Understanding values and culture is crucial for food safety management 84 vi Contents 8 Can food safety be pro-poor? 106 9 Gender aspects of informal markets for animal-source food 114 PART 2 Twenty-five proof-of-concept studies from sub-Saharan Africa 125 10 Inadequate access to safe water for livestock and people in rural Ethiopia 127 11 Low quality of water and milk in rural Ethiopia poses risks to human health 131 12 Is Ethiopian raw milk safe for human consumption? 135 13 Milk quality in peri-urban Dar es Salaam: cream on top or tip of the iceberg? 140 14 Equal pay for equal work in Kenya 146 15 Kenya’s economic gain leading to health pain? 150 16 Emerging diseases threaten Ghana’s emerging milk market 155 17 Hand-washing is likely to turn Ivorian milk into a safe and competitive product 161 18 When clean milk production cannot be assured, boiling before consumption is non-negotiable 166 19 Are malarial symptoms mistaken for brucellosis in Mali? 171 20 Boiling milk disrupts the social order of communities in Mali 176 21 Beef in export abattoirs not safer than that in local abattoirs 183 22 A single slip may cause lasting injury: beef in Kenya contaminated from the start 186 23 Risky roast beef in Tanzania 190 Contents vii 24 Risky roast beef in Tanzania? Not yet confirmed! 194 25 Informal markets in Mozambique risky for local chicken 197 26 Arrive alive in South Africa: chicken meat the least to worry about 202 27 Informal selling of meat in South Africa 207 28 How an antelope could alleviate poverty in South Africa 212 29 Sustainable livelihoods in South Africa through marketing of biltong 216 30 Participation: (un)manageable tool for risk analysis of traditional slaughter of goats in South Africa? 220 31 A critical review of food safety and land policies in South Africa 224 32 Is Ghana threatened with disease from its heavy fish consumption? 229 33 European Union trade regulations influencing food production in Côte d’Ivoire 234 34 Shellfish on the table not to blame for chronic cough in Côte d’Ivoire 238 PART 3 Annexes 243 Annex 1 Project partners from 2008 to 2011 245 Annex 2 List of publications from the Safe Food, Fair Food project 246 Index 255 About CTA The Technical Centre for Agricultural and Rural Cooperation (CTA) is a joint international institution of the African, Caribbean and Pacific (ACP) Group of States and the European Union (EU). Its mission is to advance food and nutritional security, increase prosperity and encourage sound natural resource management in ACP countries. It provides access to information and knowledge, facilitates policy dialogue and strengthens the capacity of agricultural and rural development institutions and communities. CTA operates under the framework of the Cotonou Agreement and is funded by the EU. For more information on CTA, visit www.cta.int LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Figures 1 Meat and vegetables being sold at night in Kampala, Uganda 13 2 Anything can be found at the informal market. Vendors selling chickens at Quelimane Market in Mozambique (note the painkillers at the back and the clothes to the right) 15 3 A supermarket in Uganda with different packaging sizes of cooking oil for different budgets 16 4 Women sell raw (unpasteurized) milk in small plastic bags at Nairobi’s informal Dagoretti Market 16 5 A market near Khulungira village near Dedza in central Malawi. Buy one bundle of onions and get a plastic bag for free 20 6 Peri-urban Accra with humans and animals crowding in the middle of plastic bags 21 7 A typical slaughterhouse in Nairobi, Kenya 25 8 A local improved slaughterhouse in Nairobi, Kenya. This type of slaughterhouse was found to be the most contaminated 25 9 An export abattoir in Nairobi, Kenya. This type was found to be the least contaminated 25 10 Damp smoked fish in Côte d’Ivoire is normally sold wrapped in newspaper of unknown origin, which could be a source of contamination 27 11 A milk collector uses the alcohol test to check the freshness of raw milk 28 12 Using a lactometer to test milk for adulteration in Kenya’s informal market 28 x List of illustrations 13 This can of chickpeas bought from a supermarket in Germany was opened before its expiry date and its contents were found covered with mould 29 14 Risk analysis framework of the Codex Alimentarius Commission 42 15 Risk analysis framework of the World Health Organization 43 16 Risk analysis framework of the Safe Food, Fair Food project 43 17 Proportional piling of herd exit in Tanzania 47 18 Risk assessment framework of the Codex Alimentarius Commission 48 19 Fault tree showing events leading to staphylococcal food poisoning in Debre-Zeit, Ethiopia 49 20 Fault tree for polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon in smoked fish in Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire 50 21 Fault tree for Vibrio spp. in shellfish in Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire 51 22 Fault tree showing events leading to ingestion of Listeria monocytogenes in Ashaiman, Ghana 52 23 Channels of smallholder milk marketing and their relative volume in the East African Community 53 24 Channels of smallholder milk marketing and their relative volume in Kasarani, peri-urban Nairobi, Kenya 53 25 Daily milk production in Debre-Zeit, Ethiopia 54 26 Milk production in Lume, Ethiopia 54 27 Pathway to describe milk contamination by pathogens 55 28 Risk factors from milk production to consumption 56 29 Risk factors for brucellosis 57 30 Risk factors during production, distribution and sale of raw milk in the informal sector in Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire 58 31 Risk factors during the traditional smoking of fish in Côte d’Ivoire 59 32 Sampling of blood at a health care centre to test for brucellosis. During sampling, information was also collected on animal husbandry, milking and food handling practices in order to identify risky habits 59 33 Participants set up a seasonal calendar to describe the movement of their animals and disease occurrence 60 34 Livestock and humans sharing the same water source (and pathogens) 61 35 Industrial