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Laat Die Karoo Met Jou Praat NAWEEK | GROOT-KAROO Laat die Karoo met jou praat Daar is baie grondpaaie in die Karoo. Gerrie van Eeden 2het ’n paar gaan ry en agtergekom die dorpies tussen Ceres en Victoria-Wes het elkeen sy eie karakter. NAWEEK | GROOT-KAROO NAWEEK | GROOT-KAROO in Sutherland gedaal. Dis nie verniet bekend een deur, maar ’n mens sukkel om te lees wat as een van die koudste plekke in Suid-Afri- hulle geskryf het. ka nie. “Maar die wind maak dit mos altyd nog kouer,” word daar in die kroeg van die Karoo-snelweg Jupiter-gastehuis vertel. As die aanvoelbare ’n Donderstorm ’n paar dae tevore het die temperatuur die dag verby -10° C daal, stuur enigste brandstofpomp op die dorp buite aksie die skool sommer die kinders huis toe. gestel. ’n Vinnige sommetjie sê vir my ek sal Mens stroom deesdae Sutherland toe om die 110 km op die R356 na Fraserburg maklik te kom sterre kyk, en om die Suid-Afrikaanse kafdraf met die brandstof in my tenk. Groot Teleskoop (South African Large Tele- Maar daar’s ’n pad wat suid van die R356 scope of Salt) (S32.37584 E20.80868) te sien. loop wat op die kaart nie veel langer as die Dit is die grootste teleskoop in die Suidelike R356 lyk nie. Ná 25 km op die R356 lê die Halfrond en sit net 14 km buite die dorp op afdraai (S32.39827 E20.91385) na regs. Dis die Fraserburg-pad. die P2259-grondpad wat jou Rante toe sal vat. Maar vanaand gaan ek saam met ’n plaas- Na skaars 4 km op hierdie pad kom ek ’n vurk like kenner sterrekyk. Jy kan nie Sutherland teë. Na link is ’n tweespoorpaadjie en regs hou besoek sonder om by Jurg Wagener ’n draai te die grondpad aan. Ek ruk die kaartboek weer maak nie. Hy is ook toevallig die eienaar van uit want ek wil nie op die verkeerde pad, in die Sterland-karavaanpark en elke aand, bied die middel van nêrens sonder brandstof gaan hy ’n sterrekyk-ervaring aan. staan nie. Ek neem my plek, saam met ’n klomp ander ’n Boer in ’n Isuzu-bakkie hou langs my mense, in Jurg se “teater” in. Eers kyk ons stil. “Jy verdwaal?” vra hy deur sy oop venster. video’s oor die sterreryk, dan wys hy vir ons “Ek’s net nie seker oor die pad nie. Loop ’n paar konstellasies op ’n rekenaarprogram (BO) Die kerk in Sutherland. (Onder) Jannie du hierdie pad Fraserburg toe?” vra ek oor die voordat ons buite deur die teleskope begin grondpad. Hierdie foto is ‘n foto van die landskap op die Plessis. (Heel onder) Die kerk in Fraserburg. kyk. Nadat ek geloer het na Jupiter se ringe, “Ja, dis die Rante-pad,” sê hy terwyl hy die Tankwa-Karoo -pad. FOTO’S: Geen idee Mars se rooi skynsel en die juwelekissie naby Jeep beloer. “Nou gaan jy lekker ry.” die Suiderkruis, skuifel ek aan tent toe. Maar toe ek vra hoe ver dit nog is, laat sy antwoord my moed in my skoene sak. My ie eindelose klipplate en geharde Sowat 23 km anderkant die padstal is die Ek ry sonder sukkel tot bo. Die uitsig aan Die volgende doen ek bestekopname van brandstof gaan beslis nie genoeg wees nie. Ek plantlewe van die Karoo inspireer afdraai regs na Sutherland, via die Oubergpas die bokant van die pas (S32.40939 E20.35655) my ledemate, sommerso in my slaapsak. Al draai maar terug na die R356. skrywers en digters al eeue lank. (S32.68152 E19.70799). Hierdie grondpad is iets om te aanskou. Die Tankwa se vlaktes my vingers en tone sit nog. Die ryp op die Hierdie is ‘n foto van die lang witgras langs die As jy die N1-snelweg misry en kronkel suid van die Tankwa-Karoo Nasionale lê doer onder tot teen die Sederberge op die tent begin al smelt in die oggendson. Ek moet pad op pad iewers heen. Deerder die grondpaaie tussen Ceres en Victo- Park verby. Nes op die Tankwa-Karoopad, horison. mooi koes vir druppels soos ek uitklim. ria-Wes volg, sal jy sien hoekom N.P. Van Wyk hou ek my oë wawyd oop. Skerp klippe is hier Ek gaan soek ontbyt op die dorp en kry ’n Louw, Etienne van Heerden, Olive Schreiner volop en hulle vreet bande vir brekfis op. Dis alles oor die kerke geroosterde toebroodjie en ’n pot warm koffie en selfs Rudyard Kipling oor hierdie streek Ná 44 km hou ek regs by die vurk Ons weet die ou boere was diep gelowig. Die om die koue te verjaag by Halley-sê-kom-eet geskryf het. (S32.42149 E19.99164) steeds in die rigting meeste klein Karoo-dorpies het juis ontstaan (S32.39630 E20.66066). Dit is ’n koffiewinkel van Sutherland. Nog 27 km verder draai ek rondom gemeentes: Sutherland, Fraserburg, in die hoofstraat – een van die eerste plekke Op teen die Ouberg weer links (S32.50307 E20.23645), ry deur Loxton, Victoria-Wes. Bo elkeen troon ’n wat jy raaksien as jy hier inry – verby die Gali- Dis net ná middagete en die bekende R355 die droë Tankwarivier en 2 km daarna draai kerktoring. leo-gastehuis en voor die Jupiter-gastehuis. Tankwa-Karoo-pad strek blinkgetrap voor my ek weer regs (S32.48664 E20.22886), want Sutherland kry hoeka sy naam van ds. Hen- Ster-, planeet- en komeetname is so gewild uit soos ’n broeknaat wat te veel gestryk is. Ek die verroeste padpredikant sê dis waarheen ry Sutherland wat in 1855 hier kom kerkbou in Sutherland soos Groot Vyf-name naby die was nou by die Tankwa-padstal (S32.87058 Sutherland lê. Die pas se voet is nou slegs 20 het. Vandag is die dorp eerder bekend vir die Krugerwildtuin. E19.77419) vir ’n vinnige kuier. km van my af. sterrewag en die koue. Ek maak ook ’n draai by die ou NG Kerk Die padstal is nuut – dis net meer as ’n Hier begin die pad – wat tot dusver redelik Van die kruin van die Oubergpas af is dit (S32.39439 E20.66073). Jannie du Plessis sluit jaar lank oop. Die plaasdam, perskepitte op plat en gelyk is – rustig lewe kry oor die rûe en nog 43 km grondpad tot op Sutherland. Dis vir my die konsistorie se deur oop nadat ons die grond voor die stoep en negosiewinkel, voete van koppies. Die berge wat tot nou toe laatmiddag en troppe skape word padlangs ’n draai om die buitekant gestap het. Jannie behoort aan Hein Lange, ’n vegetariër en op die horison geskuil het, kom nader soos die aangejaag kraal toe. Voor ek links draai op lei toere deur die kerk. Al wat hy vra, is ’n kruiedokter. pad ooswaarts klim. die R354-teerpad (S32.42254 E20.65694) wat donasie vir die ouetehuis. Sy nommer is teen Nadat ek’n koppie troos uit die blikketel Die vlaktes van die Tankwa verdwyn soos van Matjiesfontein af kom, sien ek dorpie en die muur by die koffiewinkels en restaurante gekry het, wys Hein op ’n kaart teen die muur jy met die Oubergpas teen die die platorand kerktoring. op sodat jy hom kan bel om te reël. waar ek moet afdraai om die Oubergpas te kan opklim na die Roggeveld-plato, die voorstoep Soos dit ’n avontuurlustige jong man Binne in kry mens daai bekende hout- en st- aanvat. Ek mik om vanaand op Sutherland te van die Karoo. betaam, hou ek stil by die Sterland-karavaan- ofreuk wat jy in kerkgeboue kry wat dig geslu- oornag en van daar af die grondpad verder Van die voet van die pas (S32.40452 park (S32.4087 E20.65876) om hier te kamp, it staan. Jannie vertel die Britse soldate het in die binneland in te vat. Wally, Hein se broer, E20.30271) af sien jy die paadjie van die 7 in die middel van die winter. As my vingers die Anglo-Boereoorlog in die kerk geskuil toe vertel dat hy op ’n slag die hele pad gery het en km lange pas hier en daar tussen die koppe hierna nog ’n pen kan vashou, sal dit iets wees ’n Boerekommando hulle in die dorp vasgelê ’n foto van elke windpomp geneem het om ’n uitsteek tot dit uiteindelik 800 m hoër bo om van my lewenslysie af te tiek. het vanaf Rebellekop, buite die dorp. soort film te maak. seespieël op die plato uitspoel. Op sy koudste het die kwik al verby -13º C Hier’s nog tekens van die soldate se graffiti op 3 4 NAWEEK | GROOT-KAROO NAWEEK | GROOT-KAROO toe gebring. Die radioboks langs die bed bied gebly het, het hy die plaas verkoop. vir jou opsies om na Springbokradio of die Terug in Loxton kry ek bokmelkkaas by “Plaaslike Stasie” te luister, en jy kan roep vir Dries-hulle se Karoo Goatsmilk Products. diens in Afrikaans óf Engels. Dries het saam met sy broer, Jan, dié besig- Voor die huis is ’n rolbalbaan en tennisbaan. heid begin. Die plaas (S31.47274 E22.36632) Aandete en ontbyt word in ’n eetsaal bedien met die bokke en die fabriek, is ’n entjie buite wat baie aan dié van ’n skoolkoshuis herinner, die dorp. Dis lamtyd en ek kan nie die bokke behalwe dat jy met egte silwer eetgerei eet. sien nie, want hulle is in die veld, maar ek kry Die geur van gebraaide lamsvleis en die darem ’n stukkie kaas gekoop en toer vinnig reuk van houtmeubels en –vloere wat al jare deur die fabriek. se voete gedra het laat my terugverlang na my Saam met die lamppale in die middel van dae as tjokkertjie by my oupa op die plaas – die straat en die kasteel, is die bokmelkkaas- veral slagtyd as daar baie vleis gebraai is.
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