Albert Einstein on a bench with YL HOLIDAYS SWITZERLAND beautiful Bern behind him

TIMEISRELATIVEINBERN Wibke Carter travels to Switzerland and discovers a new world full of garlic, onions, high cuisine... and confetti

have no chance. I am sur- onions in the foreground of illumi- Switzerland’s federal capital, in its rounded by children heavily nated historical buildings like the best light: a beautiful old town (a armed with … confetti. And as I town hall is an enchanting sight. Unesco World Heritage Site), sur- learn in the next split second, Other vendors offer seasonal vegeta- rounded by majestic alpine scenery they have no hesitation to use it bles, bread, hot mulled wine (a first and a friendly population which is Iwith full force. Before I can for me, alcohol this early) and souve- proud of its roots and traditions. even open my mouth in protest, nirs. No one seems bothered by the Historical research indicates that tiny shreds of coloured paper rain early hour or the winter coldness. the Zibelemarit originated in the down on me, but when I see the mis- “The Onion Market attracts more 1850s when farmers’ wives, the so- chievous sparkle in their eyes, I can- visitors than any other traditional called marmettes, came to Bern not help but smile. event in the canton,” says city guide around St Martin’s Day to sell their I had arrived in Switzerland the Margarete Schaller. “It’s a public produce, however a local legend day before for the Bern Zibelemarit holiday in Bern and everyone gets holds that the onion market is much or Onion Market, a traditional folk behind it.” older. According to folklore, the festival held annually on the fourth The local restaurants serve tradi- Bernese awarded the people from Monday in November. It is an early tional savoury onion tart, cheese tart the nearby city of Fribourg the right start for the first visitors at around and onion soup. Swiss Rail puts on to sell onions in reward for their aid 5am, though when I join the crowds extra trains, and additional coaches after a fire destroyed much of Bern at 6.30am it already seems impossi- are scheduled to bring in thousands in 1405. ble to move in some places. Around of visitors. The market is notorious For lunch, I head to the restaurant me, farmers from all over the coun- for the confetti fights, enjoyed not Volkhaus 1914, where Emil Bolli, try sell tonnes of onions and garlic only by small children. “You’d better chef of the Swiss national football on hundreds of stands in the narrow start covering your mulled wine,” Ms team, makes the famous onion pie. streets of the old town. In the dark- Schaller laughs. “Some shops close He estimates to have baked around ness, this sea of traditional braided early before the fight finale so as not 40,000 of these in his lifetime and I onions, flower arrangements, deco- to have confetti everywhere.” can attest the man certainly knows The onion market in central Bern, Switzerland rations and figures sculpted from The onion market shows Bern, his craft. The simple dish made with

36 The Press and Journal | Saturday, January 27, 2018 GRAND TOUR OF THE OUTER HEBRIDES DEPARTS COACHTRAVEL WITH 8APRIL &2SEPTEMBER 2018 LOCAL DEPARTURES

5DAYSFROM The onion market parade in the Swiss capital £755PP NEW LOWER PRICE! 5DAYSWAS FROM £835pp -NOW FROM £755pp!

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Our extended tour of the Hebrides offers aunique opportunity to travel the length and breadth of the Western Isles —but in response to popular demand, we have added aslightly shorter version of the tour which still takes in all the beauty and diversity of this very special environment, with nine different islands and four ferry trips included.

ISLANDS VISITED INCLUDE: Lewis, Harris, North Uist, South Uist, Benbecula, Eriskay,Vatersay,Barra &Skye

The iside of the Zytglogge with astrological clock mechanism A Bernese Platter onion, ham and cheese on top is a carefully views of the Old Town and marvel at the certainly does not stand still. Before I know balanced sweet and salty tasting delight. hour chimes, the two tower clocks, the me- it, I am on my way back to the airport. As I Swiss food is very seasonal, explains Bolli, chanical figures and the astronomical clock unpack my bags at home, a souvenir falls with dishes like the Bernese Platter only which are all driven by a common mecha- from the inside of my sweater – a tiny blue sold in winter time, and warm, hearty food nism. In Switzerland, Bernese people have a piece of confetti. dominating the local cuisine in the colder reputation of being clumsy and slow just months. When I ask what the one food is he like the black bear on the city’s coat of arms. always takes with him when travelling with “But the rotating bears on the Zytglogge are HOLIDAY FACTS the national football team around the world, not slow at all,” Ms Schaller is quick to point PRICE INCLUDES he smirks: “Bircher Musli”. out. •Returncoach travel from Aberdeen, • Fly: EasyJet offers direct flights, Emil Bolli is a household name in Everything is really close to each other in Inverurie, Elgin, Forres, NairnorInverness Switzerland and has lived in Bern for more the Swiss capital, a city with around 140,000 four times a week, between Edinburgh than 30 years, however the title of the city’s inhabitants, and only 10 minutes’ walk fur- and Basel. www.easyjet.com. Continue •4nights’ accommodation on adinner,bed most famous resident goes to another: ther stands the Kunstmuseum (Museum of by train (www.swissrailways.com) to and full breakfast basis Bern, approximately 90 minutes. Albert Einstein. Einstein lived in Bern only Fine Arts) Bern, which happens to be the •All coaching and ferry transfers from 1903 to 1905, yet it was here that he oldest art museum in Switzerland with a • Stay: The four-star superior Hotel developed his theory of relativity which permanent collection. Currently on show Allegro Kursaal Bern offers 171 rooms, •Visits to the Standing Stones of Callanish, turned the world of physics upside down. (until March 4, 2018) are parts of the collec- three restaurants and a bar, fitness the Gearannan Black Houses, Shawbost facilities, the Grand Casino Bern and The small apartment in Kramgasse 49 tion compiled by Hildebrand Gurlitt, one of Norse Mill, Kisimul Castle and Cockleshell where he lived with his wife Mileva and the art dealers selected by the Nazis to sell sweeping views of the Old Town and young son Hans is open to the public. The looted and undesirable “degenerate” art distant Bernese Alps. www.kursaal- Beach second floor residence, consisting of only abroad. Before Gurlitt’s reclusive son bern.ch •Services of atour manager two rooms, features original furnishings Cornelius died in May 2014, he named the • Eat, drink, do: Volkshaus 1914: owned by Einstein, not all from his time in museum as the sole recipient of the entire www.volkshausbern.ch Bern, as well as photographs and a small collection, which came as a surprise. Einstein Haus Bern: www.einstein- FOR BROCHURE, CALL bern.ch exhibition. Just like many Bernese during Arguably one of the best places for dinner 01224 338004 quoting AB723 that time, the Einsteins had to share a in Bern is the Kornhaus (Granary), consid- Zytglogge (Clock Tower): or email [email protected] kitchen and bathroom with another family. ered an outstanding example of High www.bern.com/en/detail/ Only 200m from the Einstein House Baroque style. Sitting underneath high berns-clock-tower-zytglogge TO BOOK, CALL 01334 657155 stands Bern’s landmark: the Zytglogge. The sandstone arches and ceiling frescoes de- Museum of Fine Arts Bern: www.kun- quoting PRESS &JOURNAL Clock Tower was the first western gate of the picting mythological figures and people in stmuseumbern.ch OR VISIT city and, with its famous astronomical cal- traditional clothing, it’s hard to focus on my Kornhaus: www.bindella.ch/de/korn- endar clock built in 1530, is now one of the food, Bernese Platter, and the delicious hauskeller.html www.pressandjournaltravel.co.uk • Tourist info: www.bern.com main attractions of Bern and one of the old- Pinot Noir from the region. Organised by Brightwater Holidays ABTOT 5001; ATOL4498. Single room supplements ap- est clocks in Switzerland. Inside I enjoy the As Einstein proved, time is relative, but it ply.Subject to availability.Some pick up points are subject to minimum numbers.Aberdeen Journals,DCThomson and its group of companies would liketocontact you about new offers and services we think may be of interest to you. By providing your contact details and email address we assume that we can contact you by post and email.