Tools You Will Need

Tools you will need:

1. 2 Jacks. A typical 2.5 ton floor jack and the vehicle’s included scissor jack may be used.

2. Ratchets as well as a possible Ratchet Driver, mini-ratchet, extensions, an 18MM Socket, a 10MM deep socket and mini-socket, a 7MM socket, a ½ inch deep socket and an 8MM socket. (The last 2 are optional for inflator port installation). A torque wrench or breaker bar may also be needed.

3. A 10MM and a ½ inch wrench.

4. A T40 and a T20 Torx bit and/or driver.

5. A flathead screw driver.

6. 3 pairs of pliers. 2 standard and a needle nose recommended. Channel locks and vice grips also recommended.

7. Wire strippers that can strip inline wires.

8. Snips for cutting through plastic as well as scissors that can cut through rubber.

9. A tire iron or lug-nut tool.

10. Possible utility knife.

11. Tape Measure

12. Soldering iron and solder.

13. At least 25 - 30ft. of at least 3-4 wire cable.

14. 2 rolls of electrical Tape.

Optional for Inflator port installation:

A drill with a 3/16 bit and a 5/16 bit.

Optional for rear power outlet installation:

A drill with a 7/8 to 1 inch paddle bit.

Onto the parts you will need. I will list everything to get from a junk-yard first, and, since there are several choices is air-shocks (depending on brand and model) I will list those second and any additional parts needed.

From a junk-yard: 1. The compressor: The compressor is located under the rear, driver’s side of the donor vehicle, and, can be typically pulled from most GM Mini-vans of either up level or luxury level trims, as well as the upper level trims of the previous GM crossovers before Theta such as the Pontiac Aztek and Buick Rendezvous. The recommended mini-vans to remove the compressor from are 2005-2007 Buick Terazza, Chevrolet Uplander, Pontiac Montana SV6, and Saturn Relay. If your junk-yard only seems to have the earlier minivans, then attempt to pull the compressor from a 2004-2005 Oldsmobile Silhouette, Chevrolet Venture, or Pontiac Montana. Remember to remove the air-filter with it by pinching the clips and pulling it out of the frame of the vehicle. If the filter line is too warn or brittle, look for another line from another vehicle. Disconnect the wire harness and air-line before removing. You may pull the mount frame with the compressor, but, you will be removing the mount frame later.

2. The sensor and bracket: Just like the above, the sensor and bracket can typically be pulled from most GM Mini-vans of either up level or luxury level trims, as well as the upper level trims of the previous GM crossovers before Theta such as the Pontiac Aztek. There are 2 types of sensors: an older large, and a newer small one. Both function the exact same way, however, you will need the small one for this application. The recommended mini-vans to remove the sensor and bracket from are 2005-2007 Chevrolet Uplander, Pontiac Montana SV6, and Saturn Relay. If your junk-yard only seems to have the earlier minivans, then attempt to pull the sensor and bracket from a 2004-2005 Oldsmobile Silhouette, Chevrolet Venture, or Pontiac Montana. Buick Sensors are not recommended because they are mounted in the opposite direction needed and designed upside down from the typical sensor.

3. The wire harness: The wire harness can be accessed by removing the Inflator and accessory power outlet access panel, and/or the donor vehicle rear driver’s side inside quarter panel. Remember to unplug/disconnect all air-lines and harnesses from the access panel and do not cut. There will be typically a white 8 wire connector that leads into the entire harness. On the side of the connector going into the vehicle, cut the wires with as much of a lead as possible. These should be the only wires that will need to be cut besides the rear accessory power outlet harness. After the connector will be the air-lines and wiring to the sensor, compressor, inflator port, inflator button/trouble indicator, and trailer harness. Separate these lines and wires from the rear tail lamp, rear climate, and power sliding door (if applicable) wire harnesses, but, be careful not to cut any of the wires and lines for the load-leveling harness. Under the donor vehicle, on the same side as the system, there will be a large, oval rubber pass-through grommet where the load-leveling harness and trailer harness as well as the air-lines pass through. Disconnect the line going to the 3-way air-line connector, then, punch or pull out this grommet, and, slowly, pull out the entire harness and air-lines with it.

4. Remove the 3-way air-line connector and the 2 other remaining air-lines to shocks from the donor vehicle. Remember not to stretch the lines, and remove the passenger shock line by popping out the frame clips, then, simply disconnect and remove both lines from the shocks and from the donor vehicle.

5. The Access Panel: The access panel should be taken with the entire system, even if you do not use all of the options in it. You will need the inflator button/trouble indicator whether or not you install the inflator option. Cut the rear accessory power outlet harness with as much of a lead as possible.

6. Interior panel noise insulation. Enough to wrap around and cushion the compressor.

7. A short load-leveling sensor rod from the driver’s side rear upper control arm of a Chevrolet Tahoe, GMC Yukon, Chevrolet/GMC Suburban, or Cadillac Escalade with ball joints attached.

8. A round rubber pass-through grommet. Typically, a GM tail lamp grommet will work fine.

9. A 25 AMP mini-fuse like the ones typically used in the vehicle (optional)

10. 4 GM loose-flanged 10MM nuts like the ones typically used for audio and mounting applications inside a GM vehicle and one or 2 GM 10MM flanged bolts.

11. You may want to find an Equinox additional inside driver’s side rear plastic quarter panel cover the matching color of your Equinox’s interior for the optional inflator port and rear accessory power outlet installation so as not to drill holes into the original.

Air-shocks and additional parts:

With the air-shocks themselves, depending on what brand you prefer, as well as whether or not you want to change the top bushings and sleeves, you have a few choices that are compatible with the opposing direction bolts of the Theta Platform:

Air-shock part numbers that do not require changing of the upper bushings/sleeves:

1. Monroe Max-Air MA784.

2. Gabriel HiJackers 49369.

Air-shock part numbers that do require changing of the upper bushings/sleeves:

1. Monroe Max-Air MA791.

2. Gabriel HiJackers 49345.

3. AC Delco 504-566

Make sure to get a hose/air-line kit with any of your air-shock selections as snap-on connectors at the shock end may have to be exchanged with screw-on connectors.

Upper bushing/sleeve replacements:

Prothane 19-920-BL Shock Mount Bushing (requires modification of cutting the larger, outer part of the bushings by half width).

A can of WD40 or similar penetrating oil.

Now that we’ve gotten all of the required parts and tools out of the way, let’s get onto preparation for installation of the system. If all is done correctly, installation should be quick and simple.

Preparing the wire harness and air-lines. For this, you have 4 options:

1. Installing the full system with inflator port and rear accessory power outlet options.

2. Installing the system with inflator port option only.

3. Installing the system with rear accessory power outlet option only.

4. Installing the system with neither inflator port and/or rear accessory power outlet options.

Note: The inflator button/trouble indicator is a requirement with all options. The compressor will be mounted inside of the vehicle instead of outside. The rear accessory power outlet harness is typically separate from the load-leveling harness, however, can be added to the power wiring going into the load-leveling harness. The trailer wiring harness will not be used and will be separated and cut from the load-leveling harness. If you feel that you need the trailer wiring, it is recommended that you find and pull the trailer harness from another similar year Theta Platform vehicle.

Let’s get started:

1. Installing the full system with inflator port only or inflator port and rear accessory power outlet options.

A. For this, you will start by carefully cutting off the large, oval rubber grommet from the harness. Be careful not to cut any of the wiring or air-lines.

B. After removing the grommet, carefully cut and remove the electrical tape wrapping the part of the harness running to the compressor and air-lines, but, do not cut or unwrap the tape any further than the sensor harness protector. You may actually unwrap the harness all the way up to the white connector. Again: Be careful not to cut any of the wiring or air-lines. Temporarily separate the 2 air-lines from the harness.

C. Separate the black trailer connector harness and cut off this harness’ wires from the white connector only leaving 3 wires remaining into the load-leveling harness. There will be 2 yellow wires, and possibly 2 white wires. Verify that you cut only the trailer harness wires going to the black connectors.

D. You’ll notice that both air-lines that have been separated have a large snap-on connector and a small snap-on connector. The routing is simple: Large snap-on connector of air-line 1 to compressor air drier with small snap-on connector to inflator port relay, and, Large snap- on connector of air-line 2 to inflator port relay with small snap-on connector to 3-way connector outside of vehicle. Route air-line 1 with the large snap-on connector toward the compressor harness with enough slack for it to get to the air drier and take 2 small pieces of tape and combine that connector of the harness together using a piece tape as a retainer and do the same at the base of the compressor harness only before it enters the rest of the harness. Take 2 more small pieces of tape and take the small snap-on connector of air-line 1 and combine it with the inflator port relay harness and the large snap-on connector of air- line 2 with enough slack on both lines to get to their designated ports on the inflator port relay using a piece of tape as a retainer and do the same at the base of inflator port relay harness before it enters the rest of the harness. Take the small snap-on connector of air-line 2 run the line along the length of the harness toward the sensor connector harness going outside of the vehicle placing small pieces of tape as retainers along the way including at the base of both the inflator port relay harness and the compressor harness. Make sure that the small connector end has enough slack to reach the 3-way connector.

E. The inflator button/trouble indicator harness should be separated and pointing straight out from the rest of the harness. Place a retainer at both the connector, and the base of the harness before entering the rest of the entire load-leveling harness.

Re-wrap entire harness and points as necessary.

2. Installing the system without inflator port and/or rear accessory power outlet options, or, with rear accessory power outlet only.

A. For this, you will start by carefully cutting off the large, oval rubber grommet from the harness. Be careful not to cut any of the wiring or air-lines.

D. You’ll notice that both air-lines that have been separated have a large snap-on connector and a small snap-on connector. The routing is simple: Large snap-on connector of air-line 1 to compressor air drier with small snap-on connector to 3-way connector outside of vehicle. Route air-line 1 with the large snap-on connector toward the compressor harness with enough slack for it to get to the air drier and take 2 small pieces of tape and combine that connector of the harness together using a piece tape as a retainer and do the same at the base of the compressor harness only before it enters the rest of the harness. Take 2 more small pieces of tape and take the small snap-on connector of air-line 1 and combine it with the length of the harness toward the sensor connector harness going outside of the vehicle placing small pieces of tape as retainers along the way including at the base of the compressor harness. Make sure that the small connector end has enough slack to reach the 3-way connector. E. The inflator button/trouble indicator harness should be separated and pointing straight out from the rest of the harness. Place a retainer at both the connector, and the base of the harness before entering the rest of the entire load-leveling harness.

Re-wrap entire harness and points as necessary and combine the inflator port relay harness with the rest of the harness.

Preparing the vehicle:

Next, we’re going to prepare the vehicle for installation of the system. Preparing it is rather simple, but, it may be a little time consuming. First we’re going to start with the interior, and the work with the exterior. We will start with the rear and work toward the front.

1. Unload any items from the rear of the vehicle, and, remove the spare tire cover floor.

2. With a T40 torx bit or driver, remove the torx bolts from the rear latch cover/guard, and, the driver’s side rear inside quarter panel plastic cover behind the seat.

3. Remove the jack and lug-nut tool/jack handle as well as the cargo net retaining bolt.

4. Slowly pull and remove the cover from the vehicle sidewall.

5. Remove the sub-sequent bottom door jamb cover panels on both front and rear as well as the lower driver’s side center pillar cover.

6. Remove the lower driver’s side dash kick panel under the steering wheel by removing the 2 7MM bolts and pulling it out slowly.

7. Remove the center dash bezel by first engaging the parking brake and remove the lower front cover, disconnecting the window controls harness, removing the shift knob (pull down the chrome skirt to reveal either the allen or torx retainer screw), shift the vehicle into neutral, and then gently pull forward the bezel from the top while disconnecting the DIC control, hazard switch, passenger air bag indicator, and rear wiper/fog lamp control, then disconnect the climate control, and, remove the traction control button by popping it out using a flathead screwdriver. Once removed, put the vehicle back into park.

8. If you are familiar with where the RAP wire is running into the BCM (thin, yellow wire in plug 6 – Brown pin 11) or Window control (thin brown wire), then you might be able to tap into that. If not, or you cannot find it, it might be necessary to remove the rest of the front dash center console by removing both covers under the dash on both sides, the glove box, six 7MM bolts, and the 2 pop-retainers on each side toward the firewall to gain access to the RAP line (brown wire) from the interior fuse box.

a. If you do not wish to use the RAP line and only wish the load-leveling to be running in Run (including Remote Start), in the large grey connector in the rear of the fuse box, there are 2 tan wires near the center of the connector. Either of these wires become active in Run and Remote Start only. 9. Toward the rear of the vehicle toward the rear of the driver’s side rear wheel well, there should be a round, black plastic punch out. From the underside of the vehicle, with a flathead screwdriver, slowly push in and up the foam cushioning and holding in the punch out on all sides. Then, from the interior, attempt to raise and pull out the plastic punch out using the flathead screwdriver to lift it out.

10. From the inside, run your modified wire and airline harness through the hole starting with the sensor harness end first. Now, connect the compressor only to the modified harness. Wrap it horizontally and airline connection end only with the noise insulation foam, and, then place it, air connection end down, into the inner quarter panel space behind the jack mount/bracket panel. Put the inlet/outlet air filter through the hole as well, and, tuck it into the plastic behind the wheel well.

11. Take the round replacement grommet, cut a slit into one side of it to insert the harness and air- lines, slide down, and push and pull into the hole around the harness and air-lines to re-seal. Be careful not to pinch the air inlet/outlet filter line as well.

12. Set the parking brake and loosen the lug-nuts on the rear driver’s side wheel. With the floor jack, lift the rear driver’s side of the vehicle to a height where the tire clears the ground, then, remove the wheel and tire assembly.

Sensor/Controller installation:

Next, we are now going to walk through preparing and installing the sensor. This should be rather simple.

1. If you left it attached to the sensor control arm, using a 10mm wrench, unscrew and remove the long rod via the ball joint from the sensor control arm.

2. Take the short rod, and, with 2 pair of pliers, gripping the base of the plastic ball joints only on the rod, turn the joints 90 degrees with the lower screw pin facing the left, and the upper one facing away from you. Both joints should be perpendicular to each other.

3. On the side opposite of where the long rod ball joint pin-screw was inserted into the control arm, insert the top pin-screw of the short rod. If done correctly, the top of the rod should be facing the control arm with the ball joint toward you, and the bottom ball joint pin-screw should be facing down the control arm in the direction toward the sensor itself.

Tip: For added safety, add a 10MM flanged nut on the other side of the arm onto the ball joint screw and tighten.

4. With a T20 Torx bit and/or driver, remove the 3 screws on the back of the sensor attaching it to the bracket. Then, only reattach the lower part of the sensor to the upper part of the bracket using only 2 of the torx screws, and screw in the third screw to the upper rear of the sensor (opposite direction of control arm).

The sensor is now prepped and ready for installation. Now to get it installed and prepare to install the driver’s side shock and air-lines.

1. Set the parking brake. With the rear driver’s side wheel still on the ground, loosen its lug nuts, then, with the floor jack, lift the rear driver’s side of the vehicle until the wheel is off the ground and continue to remove the wheel and tire from the hub.

2. You should now have a clear view of the rear driver’s side suspension assembly and should see 2 frame holes underneath with one toward the middle, and another toward the front. You will be using the one toward the front only.

3. Take one of the 10mm flanged bolts and place through the rear bolt hole in the sensor mounting bracket from the top, then, take one of the 10mm flanged nuts and screw it onto the bottom of the bracket only by a few threads so there is room to mount it into the frame hole.

4. Taking the entire assembly, place the top of the flanged bolt into the frame hole and hold the bottom of the bolt and nut and bracket up against the frame and slide it forward until it stops as much as possible and tighten the nut, at first, by hand, then, with a 10mm socket and ratchet while keeping the bracket and sensor positioned and angled inward toward the front of the vehicle. Both sensor rear screws should be touching against the frame.

5. You should now have the control arm away from the frame enough that it’s now back flange will not scrape the frame or body in a severe jounce situation, and, now the short rod should be positioned perfectly to where the bottom ball joint pin-screw is aligned with the outer rear hole in the vehicle suspension upper control arm opposite the ABS connector. Go ahead and put that part through that hole and tighten it in using another 10mm flanged nut inside the upper control arm using a mini-ratchet and socket while holding the ball joint with a 10mm wrench. You may now plug the harness connector into the sensor. Careful to run the cable where it will not get pinched or damaged.

With the sensor installed, we next have the shock and air-line installation which is pretty straight forward starting with the driver’s side:

1. Using the snips, at the top of the shock, cut out the plastic shroud enough to reveal the top bolt and with enough clearance for an 18mm socket.

2. Remove this bolt using the 18mm socket and extensions if needed. A Torque wrench or breaker bar may be needed here to loosen the bolt. Repeat the same with the lower bolt, and, remove the shock absorber.

3. Air-shock preparation: If you purchased the air-shocks that require upper bushing modification (Monroe MA-791, Gabriel 49345 or AC Delco 504-566), then follow these next instructions carefully. IF you purchased the air-shocks that do not require modification (Monroe MA-784 or Gabriel 49369), then simply continue onto step 4, air-line preparation and installation:

A. Using a penetrating oil, spray around the upper metal sleeves and bushings on both air- shocks and allow to sit for at least 10 minutes. B. Using either a pair of pliers, channel locks, or vice grips, slowly grab and twist out the upper metal sleeves of both air-shocks.

C. Using the utility knife, simply cut one side of the rubber bushing flange off to clear the upper ring of each shock. You may either spray penetrating oil around the bushing, wait, and/or punch it out, or, cut a chunk out of the bushing and/or punch it out of each shock.

D. If you have not done it already, take the new Pro-thane bushings and cut the larger outer ring by half width on all 4 bushings. DO NOT CUT THE SMALLER INNER BUSHING RING.

E. Assemble the new bushings and sleeves into the upper rings of both air-shocks. Once assembled, the sleeves should be flush with the now outside of each bushing. The shocks are now ready for installation.

4. Air-line preparation and installation:

A. Take the 3-way air-line connector, and connect the center connection to the small, snap-on connector from the air-line from the vehicle.

B. Connect the short air-line to one side of the 3-way connector and place the other end through the bottom rear of the shock tower and pull it through to the large opening of the tower.

C. Connect the long air-line to the other side of the 3-way connector and run the other end toward the rear bumper paying careful attention to prevent it from getting pinched, damaged, or burned by the exhaust, and, place the air-line through the bottom plastic attachment tabs under the bumper frame all the way to the passenger side.

5. Air-Shock installation:

A. Using the vehicle included scissor jack, place it under the rear, lower suspension control arm and use the jack to raise it.

B. If the shocks have screw on air-line fittings, take the air-line in the shock tower, un-hook from snap-on connector, push air-line fitting out of the connector and cut off the very end- tip, and remove the 2 rubber washers and slide off the snap-on connector, slide on the screw on fitting provided in the shock hose kit, put the 2 rubber washers (or replace with new ones from the kit) back onto the air-line, and, install the shock with the air-line fitting toward the inside rear of the shock tower. If the shocks have snap-on air-connector fittings, simply snap-on the air-line connector, and install the shock with the air-line fitting toward the inside rear of the shock tower.

C. Bolt the shock in from the top first, then, pull and stretch the shock down to the lower bolt fitting, bolt and tighten into place.

D. Lower the scissor jack and re-install the rear wheel and tire assembly. Then lower the vehicle and repeat the same steps with the passenger side air-shock.

Inflator port and rear accessory power outlet installation. These are optional additions if you choose to install them and can be very helpful in many situations. If you do not wish to do these steps, you may continue onto “Connecting the system.” If you only wish to install the rear accessory power outlet, continue onto “Rear Accessory Power Outlet Installation.”

1. Inflator Port Installation: There are multiple places you might be able to install the inflator port at this point, however, this is the best way I have found.

A. Take either your plastic inside rear driver’s side quarter panel cover, or the one you may have taken in addition, and, from the cabin side of the panel, measure 4 ½ inches from the top, 14 ¼ inches from the bottom, 1 inch from the inside right edge of the jack storage compartment, and 1 ½ inches from the panel indention to get the hole placement for the stem/outlet. From the inside right side of the jack compartment, measure 1 3/8 inches from the top, 10 ½ inches from the bottom, 1 inch from the outside edge, and 2 inches from the inner back wall to get the placement for the hole placement of the port retainer. Mark both with a sharpie or punch.

B. Drill the hole for the valve stem/outlet using the 5/16 drill bit, and, the hole for the retainer using the 3/16 drill bit.

C. If you have not already, remove the inflator port from the access panel using the ½ inch deep socket for the stem outlet, and, the 8MM socket for the retainer, and remove the nuts completely. From the inside of the panel, install the port stem/outlet first, then, swing and push the retaining bolt pin into the hole that had been drilled for it. Remember that this step may take a bit of force to do since there is no cut-out for this hole. Replace the nuts back onto the stem/outlet and retainer and tighten in place. Do not connect the air-lines or relay harness yet until you have completed connecting the system.

2. Rear Accessory Power Outlet Installation: There are multiple places you might be able to install the rear accessory power outlet at this point, however, this is the best way I have found.

A. Take either your plastic inside rear driver’s side quarter panel cover, or the one you may have taken in addition, and, from the cabin side of the panel, measure 3 inches above the jack storage compartment, 2 inches from the top, 1 ½ inches from the indention of the cover shade hook, or, 10 inches from the very rear of the panel, and, 4 ¾ inches from panel indention for hole placement of power outlet. Mark using a sharpie or punch.

B. Drill the hole using the 7/8 inch paddle bit at first. If you find the fit for the outlet to be too tight later, you widen the hole with the 1 inch paddle bit.

D. If you have not already, remove the power outlet from the access panel by unplugging the harness from it, then, with your right hand, hold the outlet with your finger inside it from the front side, the, using your left hand, twist the rear outside of the outlet counter clockwise from the rear, and remove the outlet from the panel. From the inside of the panel, install the outlet into your panel, and tighten the rear outside back onto it. Do not connect the power harness yet until you have completed connecting the system.

Connecting the System: These steps are rather simple since there are only 3 primary wires to connect the entire system.

1. The main power/battery wire (orange on system, red and white in vehicle). On the inside rear driver’s side of the vehicle, with the panel removed, you will see a wire harness just below the window that connects to the tail lights and rear wiper. You’re looking for a single, thick red/white wire in this harness. Strip (DO NOT CUT) enough sheath from this wire to expose the copper wire inside careful not to touch it to the body, because, this wire will be live.

2. Take the orange wire from the vehicle side of the white connector of the load-leveling harness, and, if applicable, the orange wire from the rear accessory power outlet harness, strip, combine and wrap around the exposed red/white wire, solder, and wrap in electrical tape.

3. The ground wire: To ground, take the black wire from the vehicle side of the white connector of the load-leveling harness, and, if applicable, the black wire from the rear accessory power outlet harness, strip, combine, and connect by removing the grounding nut toward the inside bottom of the compartment using a 10MM deep socket, and then, bolting the harness down there. You may also want to add an extension to the wire by soldering on at least 1 to 2 feet more of black wire.

4. The ignition/accessory wire: Take the yellow (or possibly bleached white) third wire of the harness, connect and solder it to one of the wires of the 25-30 feet of 3-4 cable, place that cable through the same wire paths that as you should be able to see the other harnesses in the vehicle along the driver’s side, all the way to the front of the vehicle and up into the dashboard where you removed the kick panel under the steering wheel.

5. Connect which ever wire you chose to use in the 3-4 wire cable to one of the previously mentioned RAP wires in the front center of the dashboard using solder, and covering with electrical tape.

6. You may now re-assemble the center dash console, kick-panel, center pillar cover panel, and both driver’s side bottom door jamb cover panels.

7. If you installed the rear inflator port option on the rear, driver’s side plastic cover panel, connect the air-lines and relay harness.

8. If you installed the rear accessory power outlet option on the rear, driver’s side plastic cover panel, connect the power harness.

9. Bring the harness for the inflator button/trouble indicator into the rear of the jack compartment. At your discretion, if you wish and you have the tools to do it, you may cut a 1 inch by 1 inch square hole 3-4 inches below the inflator port retaining hole, or, in place of the retaining hole if you did not install the option, into the inside right of the jack storage compartment, and, bring the inflator button/trouble indicator harness through that hole, however, this is not required. 10. Reinstall the driver’s side rear inside quarter panel cover, rear latch cover/guard, and the spare tire cover, jack, and jack handle, but, don’t put the cover panel on the jack compartment yet as access may be needed for testing purposes.

11. If you have not already, remove the inflator button/trouble indicator from the access panel by pinching in the clips from the back on each side of it using a flathead screw driver and pushing it out the front of the panel. From here, you may plug the button/indicator into the harness, and, make sure it is easily accessible from the jack compartment, but, can also be stored in that compartment to prevent accidental triggering.

Note: Be careful not to push the button once plugged in until after you have replaced the fuse described below. Whether the key is on or off, pushing the button automatically turns on the inflator at any time.

12. In the inside fuse box in the center console, replace the rear wiper 20 AMP fuse with a 25 Amp fuse to provide enough amperage protection for the system and wiper without overloading the fuse.

Testing and Features: Next, to test the system, and give information on some of the features of system. Take note, that if the instructions given were followed step by step, unless your old shocks were bad to begin with, the load-leveling system may not change the rear height of the vehicle from normal to any higher or lower.

1. Before turning on the key, verify that the sensor control arm is in a slightly above center position indicating a non-level load, which, since the shocks have no air in them yet, should be a normal condition at this time. Do not sit in the vehicle yet.

2. Simply turn the key and start the vehicle. Either right away, (or, in about 20 seconds) the compressor should start. If you’re outside of the vehicle, you should notice the rear end slightly raise to normal height, and the compressor should stop.

Note: If the compressor is noisy, or, extremely loud, and takes a while to adjust height, this might be an indicator of a failing compressor and it should be replaced. Take note and listen for any hissing from the shocks as well as this could indicate an improper fitting or loose air-line.

3. Now, sit anywhere in your vehicle and wait 20 seconds, and the compressor should re-level, once it has stopped, get out of the vehicle, and, with it on or off, stand at the rear driver’s side and listen. You should hear an air-valve open and air passing out of the inlet/outlet filter and see the vehicle lower back to normal height, then stop.

4. If installed, you may test the rear inflator port by simply pressing the inflator button, and, pushing in the valve on the stem. The air stream should be strong and steady. The rear inflator port option is available at any given time whether the vehicle is running or not.

Note: The inflator is only allowed to run 10 minutes per cycle to prevent damage to the compressor and will automatically turn off once this time is reached. You must wait 10 minutes for the compressor to cool, or, (not recommended) the ignition must be cycled on and off to continue use of the compressor for longer. You may purchase an inflator hose kit from eBay for roughly $25 to $40 depending on the seller.

5. The rear accessory power outlet should also be available and working at all times as well whether the vehicle is on or off.

One additional feature of the newer system is a manual adjust mode. To use, have the vehicle started. Press and hold the inflator button/trouble indicator for up to 15 seconds and the compressor should start with no light on the indicator. Allow the height to adjust as desired and press the button again to stop. System returns to normal operation once the key is turned off.

CAUTION: Be careful not to over-inflate the shocks when using this mode as it could result in damage to the shocks, air-lines, and compressor.

The yellow light on the inflator button is also your trouble indicator, and, advises you of trouble by blink code:

DTC 11 is related to the accessory inflator solenoid, and will set for short to power, short to ground or a malfunctioning solenoid.

DTC 12 is the system okay code.

DTC 13 sets if the ride height is out of specification.

DTC 21 sets if the compressor relay coil control circuitry shorts to ground.

DTC 22 sets if the compressor relay coil circuitry opens or shorts to battery.

DTC 23 sets if the compressor runs for 255 seconds during a leveling function.

DTC 31 sets if the exhaust solenoid control circuit shorts to ground.

DTC 32 sets if the exhaust solenoid control circuit opens or shorts to battery.

DTC 33 sets if the exhaust solenoid has been energized for 255 seconds and the height sensor did not detect the proper downward movement.

Here are pictures and the guide where I got a lot of information from. http://mastertechmag.com/pdf/2009/June/gmairsuspPDF.pdf

Thank you,

Starflare5.