Tools you will need: 1. 2 Jacks. A typical 2.5 ton floor jack and the vehicle’s included scissor jack may be used. 2. Ratchets as well as a possible Ratchet Driver, mini-ratchet, extensions, an 18MM Socket, a 10MM deep socket and mini-socket, a 7MM socket, a ½ inch deep socket and an 8MM socket. (The last 2 are optional for inflator port installation). A torque wrench or breaker bar may also be needed. 3. A 10MM and a ½ inch wrench. 4. A T40 and a T20 Torx bit and/or driver. 5. A flathead screw driver. 6. 3 pairs of pliers. 2 standard and a needle nose recommended. Channel locks and vice grips also recommended. 7. Wire strippers that can strip inline wires. 8. Snips for cutting through plastic as well as scissors that can cut through rubber. 9. A tire iron or lug-nut tool. 10. Possible utility knife. 11. Tape Measure 12. Soldering iron and solder. 13. At least 25 - 30ft. of at least 3-4 wire cable. 14. 2 rolls of electrical Tape. Optional for Inflator port installation: A drill with a 3/16 bit and a 5/16 bit. Optional for rear power outlet installation: A drill with a 7/8 to 1 inch paddle bit. Onto the parts you will need. I will list everything to get from a junk-yard first, and, since there are several choices is air-shocks (depending on brand and model) I will list those second and any additional parts needed. From a junk-yard: 1. The compressor: The compressor is located under the rear, driver’s side of the donor vehicle, and, can be typically pulled from most GM Mini-vans of either up level or luxury level trims, as well as the upper level trims of the previous GM crossovers before Theta such as the Pontiac Aztek and Buick Rendezvous. The recommended mini-vans to remove the compressor from are 2005-2007 Buick Terazza, Chevrolet Uplander, Pontiac Montana SV6, and Saturn Relay. If your junk-yard only seems to have the earlier minivans, then attempt to pull the compressor from a 2004-2005 Oldsmobile Silhouette, Chevrolet Venture, or Pontiac Montana. Remember to remove the air-filter with it by pinching the clips and pulling it out of the frame of the vehicle. If the filter line is too warn or brittle, look for another line from another vehicle. Disconnect the wire harness and air-line before removing. You may pull the mount frame with the compressor, but, you will be removing the mount frame later. 2. The sensor and bracket: Just like the above, the sensor and bracket can typically be pulled from most GM Mini-vans of either up level or luxury level trims, as well as the upper level trims of the previous GM crossovers before Theta such as the Pontiac Aztek. There are 2 types of sensors: an older large, and a newer small one. Both function the exact same way, however, you will need the small one for this application. The recommended mini-vans to remove the sensor and bracket from are 2005-2007 Chevrolet Uplander, Pontiac Montana SV6, and Saturn Relay. If your junk-yard only seems to have the earlier minivans, then attempt to pull the sensor and bracket from a 2004-2005 Oldsmobile Silhouette, Chevrolet Venture, or Pontiac Montana. Buick Sensors are not recommended because they are mounted in the opposite direction needed and designed upside down from the typical sensor. 3. The wire harness: The wire harness can be accessed by removing the Inflator and accessory power outlet access panel, and/or the donor vehicle rear driver’s side inside quarter panel. Remember to unplug/disconnect all air-lines and harnesses from the access panel and do not cut. There will be typically a white 8 wire connector that leads into the entire harness. On the side of the connector going into the vehicle, cut the wires with as much of a lead as possible. These should be the only wires that will need to be cut besides the rear accessory power outlet harness. After the connector will be the air-lines and wiring to the sensor, compressor, inflator port, inflator button/trouble indicator, and trailer harness. Separate these lines and wires from the rear tail lamp, rear climate, and power sliding door (if applicable) wire harnesses, but, be careful not to cut any of the wires and lines for the load-leveling harness. Under the donor vehicle, on the same side as the system, there will be a large, oval rubber pass-through grommet where the load-leveling harness and trailer harness as well as the air-lines pass through. Disconnect the line going to the 3-way air-line connector, then, punch or pull out this grommet, and, slowly, pull out the entire harness and air-lines with it. 4. Remove the 3-way air-line connector and the 2 other remaining air-lines to shocks from the donor vehicle. Remember not to stretch the lines, and remove the passenger shock line by popping out the frame clips, then, simply disconnect and remove both lines from the shocks and from the donor vehicle. 5. The Access Panel: The access panel should be taken with the entire system, even if you do not use all of the options in it. You will need the inflator button/trouble indicator whether or not you install the inflator option. Cut the rear accessory power outlet harness with as much of a lead as possible. 6. Interior panel noise insulation. Enough to wrap around and cushion the compressor. 7. A short load-leveling sensor rod from the driver’s side rear upper control arm of a Chevrolet Tahoe, GMC Yukon, Chevrolet/GMC Suburban, or Cadillac Escalade with ball joints attached. 8. A round rubber pass-through grommet. Typically, a GM tail lamp grommet will work fine. 9. A 25 AMP mini-fuse like the ones typically used in the vehicle (optional) 10. 4 GM loose-flanged 10MM nuts like the ones typically used for audio and mounting applications inside a GM vehicle and one or 2 GM 10MM flanged bolts. 11. You may want to find an Equinox additional inside driver’s side rear plastic quarter panel cover the matching color of your Equinox’s interior for the optional inflator port and rear accessory power outlet installation so as not to drill holes into the original. Air-shocks and additional parts: With the air-shocks themselves, depending on what brand you prefer, as well as whether or not you want to change the top bushings and sleeves, you have a few choices that are compatible with the opposing direction bolts of the Theta Platform: Air-shock part numbers that do not require changing of the upper bushings/sleeves: 1. Monroe Max-Air MA784. 2. Gabriel HiJackers 49369. Air-shock part numbers that do require changing of the upper bushings/sleeves: 1. Monroe Max-Air MA791. 2. Gabriel HiJackers 49345. 3. AC Delco 504-566 Make sure to get a hose/air-line kit with any of your air-shock selections as snap-on connectors at the shock end may have to be exchanged with screw-on connectors. Upper bushing/sleeve replacements: Prothane 19-920-BL Shock Mount Bushing (requires modification of cutting the larger, outer part of the bushings by half width). A can of WD40 or similar penetrating oil. Now that we’ve gotten all of the required parts and tools out of the way, let’s get onto preparation for installation of the system. If all is done correctly, installation should be quick and simple. Preparing the wire harness and air-lines. For this, you have 4 options: 1. Installing the full system with inflator port and rear accessory power outlet options. 2. Installing the system with inflator port option only. 3. Installing the system with rear accessory power outlet option only. 4. Installing the system with neither inflator port and/or rear accessory power outlet options. Note: The inflator button/trouble indicator is a requirement with all options. The compressor will be mounted inside of the vehicle instead of outside. The rear accessory power outlet harness is typically separate from the load-leveling harness, however, can be added to the power wiring going into the load-leveling harness. The trailer wiring harness will not be used and will be separated and cut from the load-leveling harness. If you feel that you need the trailer wiring, it is recommended that you find and pull the trailer harness from another similar year Theta Platform vehicle. Let’s get started: 1. Installing the full system with inflator port only or inflator port and rear accessory power outlet options. A. For this, you will start by carefully cutting off the large, oval rubber grommet from the harness. Be careful not to cut any of the wiring or air-lines. B. After removing the grommet, carefully cut and remove the electrical tape wrapping the part of the harness running to the compressor and air-lines, but, do not cut or unwrap the tape any further than the sensor harness protector. You may actually unwrap the harness all the way up to the white connector. Again: Be careful not to cut any of the wiring or air-lines. Temporarily separate the 2 air-lines from the harness. C. Separate the black trailer connector harness and cut off this harness’ wires from the white connector only leaving 3 wires remaining into the load-leveling harness. There will be 2 yellow wires, and possibly 2 white wires.