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Editorial 1

CFSS Winter Programme 2008 / 9 3

Dates for your Diary Dollar History Society 4 The Clackmannan History Society 5 Stirling Field and Archaeology Society 6 Kincardine Local History Group 7 Tullibody History Group 8

Reports from Summer Outings & Field Trip

Spring Field Trip – 16th to 19th Mar – Ardrishaig 9 28th April Industrial Visit – Graham‟s Dairy Sadie Archibald 20

Wednesday Walks 7th May King‟s Park Circular Jack Archibald 21 11th June Forest Mill Circular Jack Archibald 22 25th June Jupiter Wildlife Centre Isobel Wood 24 9th July Dollar via Harviestoun Marilyn Scott 26 6th August Glendevon Kirkyard Isobel Wood 32 20th August Dollarbeg to Arndean – cancelled inclement weather Saturday Outings + one excursion

31st May Ceres, Hill of Tarvit & Scots Tarvit Tower Jack Archibald 36 28th June Weymss Caves Aberdour Isobel Wood 38

24th July (Thursday) The Royal Scottish Academy Isobel Wood 42 30th August Inchcolm & House of the Binns Jack & Sadie Archibald 45

EDITORIAL Betty Roy

The summer, such as it was, has now passed and the ever optimistic Scot is hoping for an Indian Summer before winter sets in!!! However one outing had to be cancelled owing to extremely bad weather and another one was conducted from the car, but never mind; more fortunate next year!! All was not “Gloom and Doom” however and the majority of the outings were not rained off – Dollarbeg to Arndean was the only one completely cancelled and is rescheduled for the end of September.

The Saturday outings proved to be popular, as well as that to The National Galleries of Scotland - all of the outings and walks have been written up in this newsletter. Those members who turn up for these events realise the amount of research and effort that goes into organising the outings. I must thank those who give of their time willingly to organise and lead these worthwhile experiences. Special thanks to the “Computer Buffs” who produce such excellent information and illustrations to the benefit of our understanding of the area we are visiting.

Once again, a big thank you to Jack & Sadie Archibald for their efforts in promoting our publications, the money accrued helps to keep our finance healthy.

The Coffee Morning, held on the 6th September was most enjoyable and a big „thank you‟ to all members who have contributed to make this a success. On the day there was no shortage of helpers who undertook various tasks such as washing up, selling produce and manning the other stalls. A princely sum of just under £400 was raised on the day – once again many thanks.

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The Society is once again represented on the Steering Group of the Biodiversity Project and also represented on Clackmannanshire`s Tourist Board. It is important that this society, established in 1970, is recognised as a group that throughout nigh on 40 years has instigated and promoted Clackmannanshire`s history and environment. The emphasis now-a-days is based on finance (lottery) while a purely independent Society such as ours does not get the recognition it deserves.

Thank you to members of the Committee for their efforts in all the work that goes on behind the scene to ensure that membership of Clackmannanshire Field Study Society is interesting and enjoyable. We, the committee, look forward to seeing you at the winter talks.

2 Clackmannanshire Field Studies Society Winter programme 2008/9 Meetings are held in Alloa Town Hall (Tommy Downs Room), unless otherwise stated, on Monday evenings -2nd and 4th of the month- 7:30 to 9:30 pm. Members of linked societies and other non-members are welcome, for a small donation. 2008 SEPTEMBER Sat 6th COFFEE MORNING – Spiers Centre, Primrose St., Alloa 10am – 12 noon OCTOBER Mon 13th SCOTTISH TRADITIONAL WEAPONS Dr. David Caldwell, NMS Mon 27th COMMODORE GORDON – THE OLD SCOTS NAVY Eric J. Graham, Maritime Researcher, Edinburgh NOVEMBER Mon 10th OLD STIRLING Craig Mair, Historian and Writer

Sat 15th 34th Man and the Landscape Symposium at Stirling University. Conservation in a Changing Climate Programmes widely available in schools, libraries, halls … information at http://www.fnh.stir.ac.uk

Mon 24th JOHN REID, A 17TH CENTURY GARDENER Cairns Mason, Bridge of Allan DECEMBER Mon 8th Member’s Night 2009 JANUARY Mon 12th CLACKMANNANSHIRE PONDS, HIDDEN TREASURES Craig McAdam, Buglife Mon 26th “NOT GONE WITH THE WIND” (ASPECTS OF THE AMERICAN CIVIL WAR) Roy Wood, Researcher FEBRUARY Mon 9th TULLIALLAN AND KINCARDINE CHURCHES Andrew Lumsden Mon 23rd STRONTIAN – A HISTORY OF ITS MINES AND MINERALS Dr. Brian Jackson – Mineralogist, NMS MARCH

Mon 9th “HOW BATTY IS CLACKMANNANSHIRE” John Haddow, Auritus Wildlife Consultancy Mon 23rd DUNFERMLINE PRISONS & VALENTINE’S DAY MURDER George Robertson, Dunfermline APRIL Mon 13th AGM Cheese & wine

3 DATES FOR YOUR DIARY Dollar History Society Programme 2008-2009

2008 09 September Stirling and The Crown 1603 Mr. John Harrison, Local Historian 14 October The Stirlings of Keir Dr. Bill Inglis, formerly of Stirling University 11 November Darien Scotland‟s greatest financial disaster Dr. Douglas Watt, Economic Historian 09 December Thomas Muir and the Scottish Radical Martyrs of the 1790s Professor Harry Dickinson, Emeritus Professor of History, Edinburgh University 2009 13 January The man who ate his boots. Franklin and the North West Passage. Alistair Cruickshank Former Director, Royal Scottish Geographical Society 10 February Amendment: Q Ships in WW1 and the Grangemouth Connection Geoff Bailey, Keeper of Archaeology and Local History in Falkirk 10 March The Moat Pit, Sir George Bruce‟s 16th century coal mine at Culross. Mr. Stephen Liscoe ,Fife Council Archaeology Unit 14 April My father Moultrie R. Kelsall conservationist and other things Mr. Robin Kelsall of Blairlogie. 12 May Annual General Meeting followed by The Antonine Wall Historic Scotland A World Heritage Site (2) Dr. David Breeze, Historic Scotland

4 5 6 Kincardine Local History Group 2008 Oct 8th Dunfermline Prison & the Valentines Day Murder George Robertson

Oct 22nd The Antonine Wall, Recent Investigations Geoff Bailey

Nov 5th The Forth Embankments and its Riparian Owners Reclamation for Agricultural Use Eddie Stewart

Nov 19th Dunfermline Opera House Gerry McMullan

Dec 3rd The Workings of Falkirk District Court Sandy Simpson

Dec 17th Kincardine Memoirs Rayna Lumsden 2009 Jan 14th Some more Fife Villages Peter Baillie

Jan 28th Clanranald, the Jacobean Rebellion Scot McMaster

Feb 11th William Wallace & the Battle of Falkirk Ian Scott

Feb 25th Kincardine – Imports & Exports in the 1700‟s Willie Anderson

March 11th Tulliallan & Kincardine Church 1974 – 2009 Andrew Lumsden

March 25th Member‟s Night & A.G.M.

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Tullibody History Group

25th September The Coming of the Railway David Bytheway 30th October Excavation at Marshill, Alloa Susan Mills 27th November Reminiscences of Tullibody Members of THG

11/18th December Christmas Party To be confirmed

29th January Gartmorn Dam Betty Roy

26th February The Bronze Age Sword - from the Forth at Cambus Mark Hall (Perth Museum)

26th March Scenes from Dollar History Janet Carolan

30th April To be confirmed Alistair Durie

28th May A.G.M. Followed by "My World Tour" Chris Calder

25th June Summer Function To be confirmed

8 ANNUAL SPRING WEEKEND – 16th/19th May 2008 – accommodation at The Grey Gull Hotel, Ardrishaig.

Numbers for this year were slightly down owing to illness and other commitments. However the trip was voted a resounding success and there were no complaints regarding weather, hotel/food, and interest. The sites visited ranged from the Prehistoric, to Medieval and on to 19th century feats of engineering. It must be said that the company made the most of the Coffee Stops at every opportunity, enjoying the purvey as well as a well-earned rest.

FRIDAY, 16th May.

After a misunderstanding as to which Woollen Mill one should meet up at Kilmahog, we eventually got on our way, and, after a brief stop at Tyndrum, as time was on our side, it was decided to visit Kilchurn Castle on Loch Awe (run by Historic Scotland). Kilchurn is situated two miles west of Dalmally off the A85. There is easy, but unsigned, access to a small carpark, and it does require careful map reading. The castle is situated on the western side of Loch Awe, and, after first crossing a railway line there is a pleasant walk through the salt marsh to the castle. Its situation, on a rocky outcrop at the head of Loch Awe, made possible its purpose to guard the entrance of Glen Orchy and Glen Strae.

A stronghold of the Breadalbyne Campbells, the keep dates from the 15th century and strategically placed information boards illustrate its story. Its claim to fame is the site and also that it houses the largest number of barrack rooms within a castle in the country. These were installed during the troubles of the 17th and 18th centuries. The Campbells, who were anti- Jacobite offered the castle as a garrison for the Hanovarian

9 troops in 1746. Kilchurn is a fine example of baronial ruins and worth a visit.

After lunch, a visit to Inverary Castle was scheduled. Here is the seat of the Campbell, Dukes of Argyll. When the castle was re-built in the18th century, the town was moved from its position near the castle to where the town of Inverary now stands. This was common practice at the time for the lairds to remove the village and its people to an area some distance from the baronial home, Logie and Alloa are examples. Famous architects of the time were involved in re-building the town and castle – Roger Morris, William Adam whose son John was responsible for much of the interior design of the castle and Robert Mylne.

The original home of the Campbells was on the island of Inchischonnell on Loch Awe. At the end of the 15th century they moved to the mouth of the River Aray, where the town and castle of Inverary was established. Each of the earls, marquesses and dukes of Argyll has borne, in Gaelic, the title of Mac Cailein Mor – “Son of the Great Colin”.

There are two important pieces of West Highland sculpture in Inverary. At the foot of the Main Street and facing the loch stands a medieval cross-shaft of 15th century date, probably carved by the masons from the school of carving on Iona. Several figural scenes, including the crucifix were erased at the time of the Reformation . Along the edge and on two lines at the base is the following inscription – “This is the cross of noble men, namely Duncanus MacCowan , Patricius his son, and Neal More, son of Patricius, who caused this cross to be made.” A second cross from Kirkapoll, Tiree, stands in the castle garden, probably 15th century date.

10 After a most interesting visit to the castle we made our way to Ardrishaig and the Grey Gull Hotel – our abode for the next three nights.

SATURDAY – The Crinan Canal & Kilmartin Glen.

The morning dawned bright and sunny, one of those halcyon days so often experienced in the West, though the breeze could be brisk at times.

Ardrishaig is situated at the south end of the Crinan Canal, built between 1793 and 1801, to enable ships to reach the Atlantic from Loch Fyne and the Sound of Jura in the West, thus saving what used to be a sea voyage of 140 miles.

The summit of the canal is 64` above sea level and has 15 locks – the distance from Cairnbaan to Crinan is 9 miles. This once very useful waterway was designed by John Rennie for a private company. Thomas Telford later supervised the construction. When the Caledonian Canal was opened in 1822, the Crinan Canal became a very important waterway for trading between the Clyde and Loch Fyne to northern waters. Unfortunately the importance of the Crinan Canal declined with the growth of the larger steam vessels. Nevertheless, yachts and fishing boats still use its course. For us it was a delight to witness the careful manouvering of such yachts through the locks. To cap- all this – there is a very inviting Coffee Shop and lots of parking.

For many years, some of the most promising sights on the canal were the Clyde Puffers – little cargo vessels that were designed to fit the Forth & Clyde and Crinan canals. These small boats delivered coal to the west coast and returned with a cargo of whisky and other produce. To-day, two puffers, Auld Reekie and Vic 32 are tethered at Crinan.

11 There is so much to observe along this stretch of waterway, but, unfortunately, owing to the time factor, certain important prehistoric sites had to be left out, i.e., Bronze Age cup and ring marked stones at Cairnbaan. However we did stop at Dunardy, here, spanning the Lock can be seen an unusual traversing bridge, almost a toy-like cantilever structure that could be wound backwards along the rails. The Crinan Canal is now an important asset to the Scottish Tourist Board. A visit to the south west should include a drive along the B841 or a walk along the tow path – from Cairnbaan to Crinan is a distance of 9 miles.

On the return from Crinan we once again bye-passed the pretty village of Bellanoch with its now re-constructed church and pretty flower gardens. At this point we crossed the special road bridge across the River Add (B8025) and entered the National Nature Reserve of Moine Mhor – the Great Moss. When the sea retreated, after the ice ages, climate changes led to the formation of this large peat bog that has created a diversity of habitats. To the north east can be seen Dunadd, an Iron Age fort, once the capital of the Ancient Kingdom of Dalriada. Legend has it that the Stone of Destiny was used here in the crowning of the first Kings of Scotland. This outcrop has been shaped by glacial action known by geologists as a roche moutonne, translated sheep`s back. Unfortunately we were unable to visit the site owing to lack of time.

Our next port of call was a visit to the Kilmartin House Museum, followed by a guided tour of the various prehistoric sites. The valley contains one of Scotland`s most interesting landscapes of archaeological monuments: a linear cemetery of five Neolithic and Bronze Age burial cairns unique in Scotland, Templewood Stone circle, the X-shaped Nether Largie standing stones and several cup & ring rock carvings. To enter

12 inside the cairns one must firstly climb upwards over some water washed pebbles and these appeared to me to have grown larger since the days when I could scramble over them to view the treasures within! One or two stalwarts managed this obstacle course! Investigation of these cairns has revealed many important artefacts that gives an insight to the people who inhabited the area over 5,000years ago. The reasons why this area was so attractive to the early hunter and agriculturist are obvious, there is abundant low, fertile land, easy access to fresh water lochs and quiet sea lochs with excellent fishing and abundant shellfish etc..

Also within the graveyard there is an interesting collection of carved grave-slabs and fragments of two crosses dating from the 16th century. Once again the clock and also stamina were against us – therefore, it was return to base. Some impressions of the area was the vast number of sites to visit, the landscape itself was at once peaceful but also dramatic. The Bluebells were in full flourish, at times almost covering small fields – it was wonderful to see the abundance of this native flower.

Time had caught up with us and the planned visit to Carnassarie had to be left until the next day. The following article has been written by Jack Archibald.

Medieval Grave Slabs at Kilmartin Church and Kilmory Church.

Before we went on our Weekend in May this year I was quite intrigued by the amount of history that was concentrated in such a small part of the country. From prehistory, Bronze Age and Iron Age Tombs, the coming of the Scots from Ireland and finally the Grave-slabs, which some believe could have been remnants of the Knights Templars who had escaped arrest and

13 persecution in France by Philip IV. Certainly this could have happened as Kilmory on Loch Sween is on a more or less direct route from France. There are some references to the Knights Templars having association with Scotland.

An order of Knights founded in 1118 in Jerusalem and their influence spread over Europe. David I of Scotland gave them lands after he was crowned king in 1124. In 1298 the Grand Master and his lieutenant were killed at the Battle of Falkirk, on that occasion on the side of Edward I.

Their influence had waned somewhat and in 1307 Philip IV of France took up arms against them and arrested a large number virtually wiping out the Order in that country.

There must have been some who made their escape to Scotland as Philip is reported to have re quested Robert the Bruce to arrest them. There is no record of his reaction to that request. However in 1312 the medieval Order of the Knights Templars was declared extinct, and, property and assets were handed over to another medieval order – the Knights Hospitallars.

Whether the Knights Templars fought with Robert the Bruce at Bannockburn remains a mystery, but, they certainly did not fight

14 under their own colours.

I have read snippets that there was an association with Rosslyn Chapel and there, again there is a school of thought that thinks differently. In the days of not much written documentation, who really can say what is true and what is not.

However the grave- slabs at Kilmartin and Kilmory are quite fascinating to look at. Probably, there could be an element of truth in the story of The Knights Templars coming to Scotland from France and helping the Scots to beat English at Bannockburn. Then again, it was maybe nothing to do with the Knights Templars. Only the masons who carved the slabs know the truth of what they represent.

I have seen the Grave slabs at Kilmartin, unfortunately, I did not get to Kilmory. Maybe when “I do” get to Kilmory, we will have all the answers to the Grave slabs. As I have said before, it makes a fascinating tale whatever way you look at it.

JACK ARCHIBALD

15 Now it was return to base, and after our very full day, our thoughts turned to a hot shower and again to partake of a good meal at the Grey Gull.

SUNDAY, 18th May, AUCHINDRAIN, FURNACE and CRARAE GARDENS.

Again the day dawned bright and sunny, and after breakfast we travelled the 25 miles to the outdoor museum of Auchindrain. This private museum provides the visitor with an insight into the life of rural people in days gone by.

AUCHINDRAIN – from the Gaelic – The Field of the Thorn Tree. The museum illustrates the type of joint tenancy holdings that would have been common around 1800. Twelve tenants paid their rent jointly to the Duke of Argyll and each tenant had a share of the arable land by dividing land into strips or rigs. There were also areas of common grazing and also sheilings in the hills – of three miles walking distance. At Auchindrain the visitor can assess how the land was worked before the adoption of large-scale sheep farming. The families remained the Duke`s tenants through generations, the slopes and fields were not enclosed by dykes and the original land once ran to about 4,000 acres.

There are 20 buildings in the complex, most have drystone walling with the roof supported on cruck frames, roofed with turf, straw or heather thatch. However, through time some of the roofing was replaced with corrugated iron. The last tenant lived in house “A” until 1954. The cobbled areas in front of many of the buildings gave dry passage in a climate that would otherwise reduce those areas to mud for much of the year.

16 The next stop was a visit to the village of Furnace to view the 19th century iron-ore blast furnace, after which the village is named. Built in 1755 by the Duddon Company of Cumbria to take advantage of the nearby supply of charcoal and the proximity to the sea for transport, this well preserved furnace stack contained huge timber-lined bellows, powered by a water wheel.

A central inscription on the wall – GF1755 (GF Goat Field Furnace) states that the stack was built from local granite, though some green Lake District slate can be seen. Progress in the form of the coal and steam engine became the death knell for the charcoal powered manufactory, resulting in closure in 1813.

The final item on the scheduled programme was a visit to Crarae Gardens, established in the early 20th century, but, now in the care of The National Trust for Scotland. Crarae is a magnificent woodland garden overlooking Loch Fyne. Once the home of the Campbells of Succoch, this garden is at its best when the brilliant variety of Rhododendrons is at its height. Various plants have been grown from seed collected on the botanical expeditions of Dr Rock and Reginald Farrer. Our visit was perfectly timed when we could admire the various flowering plants – azaleas, camellias and magnolias. In 2002 the garden was gifted to NTS by the Crarae Charitable Trust following a successful £1.5 million appeal. (Friends of Alloa Tower contributed to that appeal. Well worth a visit in spite of the efforts of Scotland`s most famous resident – The Midge.

As we still had time and energy left is was decided to visit Carnasserie Castle (scheduled for the Saturday programme). The roofless, but well preserved, ruin of this castle surmounts a

17 ridge of 80 meters above the Kilmartin Burn. Though it was a fairly strenuous climb to the top, most did make the effort, and explored the remains of tower house and a hall house of late 16th century date. Carnasserie was the home of John Carswell, the first Protestant Bishop of the Isles, published Knox`s liturgy translated into Gaelic in 1567, the first book to have been printed in Scotland in Gaelic.

MONDAY, 19th May – Homeward Bound.

As is usual, the return journey is more relaxed, and members on the whole follow the programme and we do meet up at various places.

Firstly, we visited The Inverary Maritime Experience housed on board the Arctic Penguin, one of the world`s last iron sailing ships and is moored at the loch side pier. Below decks are many interesting displays featuring the Clyde shipbuilding and the conditions the mariner experienced below decks.

The route for the homeward journey was via Arrochar – a road that is quite spectacular with wonderful views of mountains and lochs. I am sure every Scot must have heard of the peak called “The Cobbler”. The district was the scene of one of the most remarkable naval achievements ever to take place in Scotland. In 1263, when King Haakon of Norway landed his great armada against Scotland, that was to culminate in his defeat at the Battle of Largs, not content with this penetration of a sea loch, the men in charge dragged the boats across the narrow strip of land to the fresh water of Loch Lomond at Tarbet.

The weather was perfect and a stroll through the village of Luss on Loch Lomondside was a must. The aim was to pay a

18 visit to the church, built in 1875 by Sir James Colquhoun of Luss in memory of his father, who had drowned in the loch. In the churchyard is a rather magnificent hog-back sarcophagus of 10th century date. The top of the grave cover still retains the original carving in the style of roof tiles representing a roof over the dead. However the side had been re-cut in the 12th century in Romanesque style. Unfortunately the church was closed, and time was short, so that it was back to the cars.

To reach Helensburgh the route was via the A817 to pass by Faslane Naval Depot and the famous or “infamous” Peace Camp. It was intended to explore the waterfront at Helensburgh, but unfortunately again the clock was against us. We then made our way to Hill House where the “Fielders” enjoyed a visit to the house designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh for the Glasgow publisher, Walter Blackie and his family between 1902 and 1904. Hill House is one of the flagship properties owned by The National Trust for Scotland.

Not on the programme, but the party had an imposed, but interesting homeward route to follow. The usual direct route via Drymen had been completely closed off and the diversion was unfortunately placed in an awkward position so that not all of the party saw it. Some followed some weird and wonderful roads but all got home safely and the 2008 Field Trip was voted an unqualified success.

19 Industrial Visit – Graham’s Dairy Monday 28th April 08

It has been around three years since we had an “Industrial Visit” as places to visit were hard to come by. So Marilyn, our secretary, put on her thinking cap and suggested Graham‟s Dairy, which is literally on her doorstep. Mr Malcolm McColm factory manager greeted 20 of our members at their office at Airthrey Kerse Farm, Bridge of Allan. After an informative talk on the workings of the dairy we were then kitted out in the necessary clothing in accordance with hygiene regulations. Now that caused some hilarity! We have some photographic evidence of this. We then split up into three groups with a member of staff with each group to give us a tour of the premises.

The process begins with milk arriving in tankers collected from their own farms and farms contracted by them. This is pumped into storage tanks making sure that organic milk is separate from non-organic milk. The process of pasteurisation starts when it leaves the storage tanks. This is a 24/7 operation.

We were shown the different processes milk has to go through to produce the variety of brands to cater for the markets. Organic, whole-milk, semi skimmed and skimmed, and even gold top. Nothing is touched by hand and the bottling machine also seals the tops, then the plastic containers are shrink- wrapped for easier mechanical handling. There are no glass bottles on the premises. All the milk is in plastic containers of various sizes. They also produce single, double and whipping cream.

Another by-product of the milk is butter and we were able to look into the large churn that happened to be open for cleaning

20 while we were there. The churn, like all the pipework and tanks, is made from stainless steel. It must be very expensive to set up an operation like this. Their complete operation from beginning to end has to be of the highest standard to suit EU and other regulations.

Their customers range from most of the big supermarkets for example Tesco, Asda, Co-op and Sainsbury to Lidl and small local shops.

The business is still family run and started out with a horse and cart delivering milk locally in Stirling area.

Tour complete we then returned to the reception area where we discarded our protective clothing. Then it was into the kitchen / dining area for tea or coffee and delicious home baking.

We had a question and answer session to round off a very pleasant visit.

We thank the directors and staff of Robert Grahams for their hospitality and a very interesting experience.

Sadie Archibald

Kings Park Circular Wednesday 7th May 08

The visit to Kings Park was the first of our Summer Programme of walks and visitations. This particular walk came from a series of “Walks for all” compiled by Stirling Council Environment Services.

A dozen of our members set off from Viewforth car park through the wide streets, admiring the lovely Victorian houses

21 and gardens on the way to the entrance of The Kings Park itself. We headed westwards up an incline and were greeted with a magnificent panoramic view; the Church of the Holy Rude, Stirling Castle perched high on it‟s rock facing the mountains running from Ben Ledi to the familiar shape of Ben Lomond, then on to the Campsies and Fintry Hills. All this was enhanced by a lovely clear evening.

As the Kings Park is home to Stirling Golf Club, we had to be vigilant in some areas for flying golf balls. Further round the well-trodden path, we were treated to a lovely view of the park itself. On reaching the western extremities of the park still with an elevated view we were looking over the carse lands and the M9 working its way towards Dunblane, very spectacular indeed.

Turning east towards the entrance the ground was more level and easier underfoot. By this time the party had split up somewhat, some looking at a restored monument and others heading for the entrance gate, panic set in by yours truly but everyone arrived safely back to the cars at the car-park.

A very enjoyable evening in fine weather and good company.

Jack Archibald

Forestmill Circular Wednesday 11th June 08

Wet conditions and other arrangements saw a smaller than normal group take part in what turned out to be a very interesting walk. Leaving the medical centre we travelled to Forestmill and parked next to the Coffee Shop. From there it was two hundred metres down the main road with the intention

22 of visiting the catchment dam built by John Erskine 6th Earl of Mar in the early 1700‟s which was to get water from the Black Devon; this was then transferred by means of a lade into the already built Gartmorn Dam. This was part of the bigger picture as it gave him a constant supply of water for his factories and coalmines further down stream. Unfortunately this path had become really overgrown and when I did the recce for the walk I had my doubts if I could take a party to see it. With the rain we had during the day and evening, I decided to abandon this part of the walk.

However we crossed the road and followed the path along the banks of the lade. This of course is nothing like what it used to be, as it is no longer a source of water for Gartmorn Dam and it has been reduced to just a trickle.

Anyway the sky cleared, and we were able to enjoy our walk along the Lade. With no water of any quantity and lack of maintenance part of it is a dense reed bed.

About one kilometre from our starting point we turned right over a bridge heading towards Aberdona. We went through a wood where there had been an abundance of bluebells, which were fading. After walking another ½ kilometre we took another right turn heading towards Aitkenhead Farm, which is in the general direction of Forestmill. Passing some cottages we had a conversation with one of the locals who was quite informative about the bird life in the area, in particular greater spotted woodpeckers, unfortunately we did not see any.

Now that we were almost back at the car I can say we thoroughly enjoyed our walk more so when the weather changed for the better. Jack Archibald

23 Outing to Jupiter Urban Wildlife Centre. This outing was led by Isobel Wood. Wednesday 25 June 2008 The Jupiter Wildlife Centre is run by Scottish Wildlife Trust.

After a day of torrential rain nine of us set off in good weather which lasted the whole of the evening. Stephen Owen gave us a splendid talk for about 90 minutes. He was a first class guide.

To start with he showed us photographs of what the site looked like originally. Magnus Magnuson opened the gardens in 1991 by planting a small oak tree which has grown considerably.

Jupiter Urban Wildlife Centre is a narrow strip of land just over 4 hectares in size sandwiched between industry, housing and the M9 in the middle of Grangemouth. The land is leased from chemical company, Kemfine, whose Grangemouth works are situated immediately to the north of the reserve beyond a freight railway line. Despite its small size and urban location it has become one of the finest examples of the potential of land reclamation for nature conservation. From the reserve entrance, visitors move from the more formal garden areas to increasingly wild habitats. The immediate surroundings of the entrance and centre building are demonstration wildlife gardens, with the objective of showing how to attract more wildlife to town and gardens. In the central area of the reserve is an area with an intricate mix of habitats, most of which have artificial origins. With a variety of pond and wetland, grassland habitats in such proximity, this area supports a surprising level of biodiversity and is notable for its wildflowers and aquatic life. Further away from the formal gardens is an area that is known as the wilderness woodland. This block of mainly birch and willow woodland has almost entirely developed on its own and is a fine demonstration of natural re-colonisation. The site originally extended 10Ha and

24 included a large warehouse building (which functioned as a site office and visitors centre) and a further area of semi-natural habitat. Both of these were to the north east of the existing reserve. In 2005 Avecia, the then owners, decided to sell off the building and the land to the northeast to a local business that needed to relocate. Due to the resulting lack of on site staff, Jupiter was closed to the public until September 2006 when a new smaller centre building was erected. This now functions as site office and toilets, and also a classroom for educational work and with displays for visitors.

Although the variety of habitats and species is impressive, Jupiter‟s particular value perhaps lies in its potential use by people both locally and further afield. Given its location, for many local people Jupiter is one of the few opportunities locally to access “wild space”. Since reopening, the reserve has started to regain some of its popularity with local people, for casual visits, school education sessions and organised events. With its urban location, along with the good path network through part of the reserve, infrastructure such as picnic benches and pond dipping platforms, and the variety of activities on offer, there is great potential to further enhance public use of the reserve. There needs to be a focus on improving the visitor experience and involving people in the reserve as much as possible. The wildlife gardening side of the site‟s educational potential should become an important aspect again.

Juniper Wildflower Nursery is also housed on site, and is one of Scotland‟s major suppliers of native plants and seeds. The nursery is currently run by the British Trust for Conservation Volunteers (BTCV).

25 At the end of the evening we had tea and biscuits in the class room. We all gave a donation to the Trust. The vote of thanks was given by Eddie Stewart Isobel Wood

Tillicoultry to Dollar (or similar) 9 July 08

The Devon Way runs alongside the river Devon on the track bed of the former Devon Valley Railway. We might have been able to do the circular taking in the old coal mines, keeping eyes peeled for raspberries, cherries and wildflowers en route but remained on the path instead because of the muddy conditions. We returned to Tillicoultry via Harviestoun Home Farm on the other side of the main road.

The Tillicoultry Railway opened in the 1850's. Originally it only went from Alloa to Glenfoot at Marchglen where there was a temporary

26 terminus until a viaduct was built over the River Devon and the line was extended into Tillicoultry where the station was built at Moss Road, next to the bowling green. When the railway line was open it was often said that many a game of bowls was altered by the rumbling of passing trains.

Opening the gates at Tillicoultry level crossing 1970.

There was a double track from Alloa to Tillicoultry, just east of Tillicoultry Station the track split with one line going down to the coal mill over the River Devon and the other going on to Dollar. There were also freight sidings of at least 2 lines on each side, accessed from the Alloa direction. There were 4 or 5 trains daily giving locals access by rail to Dollar, Perth, Alloa and Stirling and all the stations in between. The station was closed on 15th June 1964.

This bridge which crosses the Devon east of Tillicoultry, gave access to a now defunct coalmine.

27 Mining accidents in Tilli ….

11 March 1862

Fatal Coal Pit Accident – Two Lives Lost - On Tuesday afternoon, an accident, which resulted in the loss of two lives, and by which several others were endangered, occurred in the coal pit at Devonside, near Tillicoultry, known as the west pit. While the pitmen were prosecuting their labours, a mass of rock, weighing about 2 tons, fell from the roof of the working upon two of them, named respectively William Allan and John Cook, both belonging to the village of Coalsnaughton. Some of their fellow workmen were so near when it fell, that their escape may be considered miraculous. The bodies of the unfortunate men were so much crushed as to be almost unrecognisable. Both have left widows and young children [Dunfermline Press – quoted in Herald March 14 1862]

20 December 1882

Tillicoultry – Fatal Accident in a Coal Mine - On Wednesday afternoon a miner, named Robert Allan residing in Devonside, Tillicoultry, was instantaneously killed in Bessie Glen Coal Mine, belonging to the Alloa and Tillicoultry Colliery Company. A large stone from the roof fell upon him while he was engaged in keeping the hutches in position on the rails as they were being drawn to the pit mouth by an engine. The deceased has left a widow and six children. [Scotsman 22nd December 1882]

21 August 1929

Tillicoultry Miner Killed - A fatality occurred at Devon colliery about 7 pm. on Wednesday evening. It appears that a

28 miner named Daniel Snaddon (39), who resided at 7 Langour, Devonside Tillicoultry, and was employed as a stripper, had been engaged at his usual employment at No. 10 Branch, West Side, 10 inch, of the colliery, when a large piece of stone weighing about one ton, fell from the roof, pinning him to the ground, and inflicting internal injuries. He was attended at the colliery by a doctor, and later removed to Stirling Infirmary where he died. He leaves a widow and two of a family. [Scotsman 23 August 1929]

30 June 1937

Fatal Pit Accident - Two miners were injured - one of them fatally - in an accident at Devon Colliery, near Alloa, yesterday afternoon. James Cook, Ochilview, Devonside, died of his injuries when he was overtaken, along with two other miners, by a rake of runaway hutches in the underground workings of the colliery. James Baxter, 51 Alexander Street, Devonside, was removed to Clackmannan County Hospital in a serious condition as a result of the accident . The third man, Robert Turnbull, 6 Greenfield Street, Alloa, escaped uninjured. [Scotsman 1 July 1937]

Some things of note:

1. Wester Sheardale House

18th century. Original part 2-storey 3-window with scroll- skews at west gable; later 2-window addition with piend east gable, plain doorpiece with rectangular fanlight; harled with margins.

2. Sheardale House is depicted on the OS 2nd Edition map (Clackmannanshire, sheet CXXXIV, 1900). It was demolished c. 1973

29 3. A curling pond, which is depicted on the 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Perth and Clackmannan 1866, sheet cxxxiv), is not shown on the current edition of the OS 1:10000 map (1978).

4. A roofed building at Mellochfoot, which is depicted on the 1st edition of the OS 6-inch map (Perth and Clackmannan 1866, sheet cxxxiv), is shown, roofless, on the current edition of the OS 1:10000 map (1978).

5. MELLOCH Colliery Previous Owners: Alloa Coal Company Types of Coal: House; Sinking/Production Commenced: c.1850; Year Closed: 1948; Year Abandoned: 1948; Average Workforce: 19; Peak Workforce: 29; Peak Year: 1947; Shaft/Mine Details: 1 surface mine, re- opened 1941; Details in 1948: Output 40 tons per day, 15,000 tons per annum. 21 employees. Coal washed and screened at Tillicoultry mine [NS99NW 77.00], miners using baths and canteen also at Tillicoultry. AC electricity from Devon Colliery [NS89NE 40.01]. Report dated 25-08-1948.

6. TILLICOULTRY Colliery (1 and 2) Previous Owners: Alloa Coal Company; Types of Coal: House, Steam and Gas; Sinking/Production Commenced: 1876 (1) 1947 (2) Year Closed: 1957; Year Abandoned: 1959; Average Workfo rce: 170; Peak Workforce: 346; Peak Year: 1950; Shaft/Mine Details: 2 surface mines; Details in 1948: Output 220 tons per day, 55,000 tons per annum. 98 employees. Baum-type washer. Baths (1938, for 70 men), canteen. AC electricity from Devon Colliery (Na tional Coal Board NCB) [NS89NE 40.01]. Report dated 25-08-1948. Other Details: Well known for high productivity, often twice the national man-shift average. Famous for the first underground live TV broadcast from a coal mine on 25 November 1952.

7. Devonvale Hall

Arthur Bracewell, 1938-1940. 2-storey, T-plan, Art Deco hall. Coursed cream coloured concrete blockwork, partial brick facing, partial render to front; render to sides and rear; chamfered concrete margins; vertical coursed concrete banded bays to upper stair towers; concrete cills; red roof tiles. Cantilevered concrete bowed canopy with stepped parapet to advanced single storey entrance block; central plaque with applied decorative butterflies, stylised raised lettering and date: 'DEVONVALE / 19 HALL 38'. Concrete eaves course and moulded cornice to entrance block.

30 W (PRINCIPAL) ELEVATION: symmetrical, 7 bays (arranged 3-1-3). Central recessed entrance, bow-fronted steps rising to 3 double figured- timber and glazed doors, flanking horizontal brick banding, bronze plaque commemorating foundation stone to right, bowed metal and glass canopy with stepped parapet above. Advanced single storey, 3-bay sections (former cloakrooms) flanking entrance. Upper storey set back, wide central wall- head with horizontal banding and central plaque, flanked by slightly advanced piended single bay stair towers.

S ELEVATION: 7 bays. Double-height hall with small window (to stair) to left and 3 large windows to centre (that to middle margin-paned with circular motif to upper section) set behind single storey brick and concrete entrance block to far left; lower single storey 4- bay section further advanced to centre with plain metal railings to balcony above. Later access ramp to right. Advanced single storey lavatory block to far right. E (REAR) ELEVATION: central stair tower and chimney stack, narrow horizontal windows directly below wallhead.

N ELEVATION: similar to S elevation.

INTERIOR: entrance hall: terrazzo flooring with blue, black and green geometric Art Deco pattern, moulded oak chimney piece with electric fire surround; narrow transomed and mullioned lights to chequered terrazzo staircases with bent mahogany handrails leading to balcony to N and S of entrance hall. Main hall: massive banded and stuccoed dome to ceiling; balcony to W of hall, coffered ceiling under balcony; stage with moulded and stepped detailing to E. Kitchen and bar facilities flanking hall to either side. Teak hall floor and stage. Pilastered and moulded wood architraves to doors and principal windows. Original light fittings and ironmongery, extensive wooden mouldings and cornicing throughout. Copper hooded radiators. References: Photographic album of Arthur Bracewell's work, NATIONAL MONUMENTS RECORD OF SCOTLAND (c.1938). R M Bailey, SCOTTISH ARCHITECTS' PAPERS: A SOURCE BOOK (1996) p110, 207. A Swan, CLACKMANNAN AND THE OCHILS (2001) p111. J Gifford and F A Walker, BUILDINGS OF SCOTLAND: STIRLING AND CENTRAL SCOTLAND (2002) p771. Additional information courtesy of Cllr Walter McAdam (2004). Original drawings with BRACEWELL, STIRLING ARCHITECTS, Tillicoultry.

31 Notes: Devonvale Hall is a good, little-altered example of a 1930s entertainment building which evidences many fine Art Deco and Neo-Georgian details. The building also holds an important association with the cultural and industrial history of the local area, forming part of a wider plan to provide employees of the Devonvale Mills a high standard of living with well- designed houses, sports and leisure facilities, shop units and even bus shelters. Arthur Bracewell (1891-1953) was brought to Tillicoultry from England in 1925, by the Salts of Saltaire, then owners of Middleton and Devonpark Mills. He was hired by the benevolent managing director, Sidney Platfoot, of Samuel Jones and Co Ltd, a paper-coating firm, which took over the premises of Devonvale Mill, a former tweed manufacture (1846-1920). Platfoot was committed to providing good housing and leisure facilities for his workforce. These included tennis (demolished) and bowling pavilions and well-designed interwar housing for workers and managers along Moss Road (from 1934). The company´s symbol, the Camberwell Butterfly was used as a decorative motif on the main plaque.

Reinforced foundations consisting of concrete pads set approximately 10 feet under ground were necessary as this building is set on a former moss field. Excellent acoustics are provided by the large dome.

Glendevon Graveyard 6th August 2008 This story was told to me by Ella Murray

Jane Rutherford‟s father James, was a local Minister.

As you can see by the photograph, a special burial place was built for her just outside the graveyard. Iron railings were put round so that she could not escape from this enclosure. She remained in it until World War II when the iron railings were taken away for the war effort.

During the war, the Army camped at Glendevon. With no iron railings to keep her in, Green Jean escaped and wandered around the army camp. Eventually, the army put barbed wire around the grave, which seems to have kept her in.

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In Memory of Jane Rutherford of Glendevon Youngest Daughter of The late James Rutherford of Ashintully Born August 1772 Died April 1869

Jane Rutherford, known as Green Jean the Witch. Isobel Wood

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34 Visit to Ceres, Hill of Tarvit, Scotstarvit Tower on Saturday 31st May 08

The first of the day trips was a bit of a marathon as we set out to visit three places in the one day and there was really quite a lot to take in.

First port of call was “Ceres” a village three miles south of Cupar in Fife. This village was a delight to visit and also had a few landmarks in its long history. It is said the church and churchyard date from 1000 AD. Prior to 1273 AD Ceres was under the influence of the Culdees, who had a Bishop in St. Andrews. It was handed over to the Roman Catholic Church around 1306. The first protestant minister was appointed in 1560.

Another of Ceres claims to fame is that it is said that the Earl Marshal of Scotland from nearby Stuthers Castle trained the men of Ceres in the art of using the bow prior to the battle of Bannockburn in 1314. The instruction apparently took place on the village green now called the Bow Butts. To commemorate the famous victory at Bannockburn there has been a celebration held there annually since then. Originally the anniversary of the battle was 24th June mid-summer‟s day, but it has recently become more convenient to hold them on the last Saturday of June. They are reputed to be the oldest games in Scotland.

Another day in history was 3rd May 1679 when James Sharp, Archbishop of St. Andrews crossed a bridge in Ceres now known as the Bishop‟s Bridge on his way home to St. Andrews. He stopped to smoke a pipe with the local minister before carrying on with his journey. Not far from the village he was waylaid by a group of Covenanters led by Hackston of

35 Rathilait and Balfour of Kinloch who murdered him in front of his daughter. They were of the view that the Archbishop was responsible for the atrocities committed against the Covenanters. Hackston was captured and hanged for the deed after the battle of Bothwell Bridge. Balfour and other associates escaped to Holland.

Adjacent to the Bishop‟s Bridge is another feature in Ceres that of the Fife Folk Museum in the High Street. This is a very interesting place with interesting exhibits of a way of life gone by. This is run by a band of enthusiastic volunteers and we spent time looking round the premises.

Our coffee break, which we always have on these occasions, was at the local church hall where the Sunday -School was having a plant sale and coffee morning.

Hill of Tarvit owned and managed by NTS was a sheer delight to visit. Built between 1905 and 1906 and designed by architect Sir Robert Lorimer for Frederick Bower Sharp a wealthy businessman whose family owned jute mills in Dundee. He had transferred some of his wealth into venture capital and transport interests.

Although almost completely rebuilt the original building was called Wymes Hall and had a 1,223 acre estate to go with it. Mr Sharp wanted a place to hold his large collection of paintings, tapestries, furniture and porcelain. Lorimer gave him an exceptional house. Being a keen golfer and a member of the R&A in 1924, he built his own golf course in the estate. This has now been resurrected and it is hoped by the end of this season it will be played on using hickory clubs as in 1924.

36 Another piece of quite outstanding interest is the elaborately carved chimney-breast in the smoking room, which came from Scotstarvit Tower and is dated 1627.

NTS has done a marvellous job in creating a time warp to present it in a period when Sir Robert had it designed.

We were given an excellent tour of the house by the NTS staff. This being my third visit to Hill of Tarvit it always gives me great pleasure to walk round the house admiring the woodwork and furnishings.

While some of the group wandered round the gardens the remainder did a twenty-minute walk to Scotstarvit Tower. Owned and managed by Historic Scotland but the NTS being the key holders yours truly had the pleasure or something of unlocking and locking the door with an ancient looking key. The key man for an hour!

We found the tower in an excellent state of repair. It was built in 1620 by Sir John Scott after buying the original tower from the Inglis Family who had built a tower there in 1500.

The group had a look round the outside and a hike up six floors to the parapet. It was well worth the visit quite different from the Hill of Tarvit not “what a difference a day makes” more like 300 years. It was something to compare, the two buildings both structurally and artistically.

We had a pleasant day and again the weather was kind to us. Jack Archibald

37 Wemyss Caves and Macduff Castle which are run by Wemyss Ancient Caves Society and to Aberdour Castle which is owned by Historic Scotland Saturday 28th June 2008 This outing was led by Eddie Stewart.

Thirteen people attended the outing. The day started off very wet when we left Alloa. By the time we reached Wemyss the rain was off and it stayed dry all day.

Wemyss Caves and Macduff Castle The young guide who was supposed to take us round did not turn up but we were not disappointed with the two guides that gave us the tour, Ann Watters & Bill Barker (who was 88 years old). We all gave a donation for the caves.

The Court Cave In the days of the Livingstones and Colvilles, who owned Macduff Castle from the 15th to the 17th centuries, the “Baron Courts” were held in this cave, although some people trace its name to the time when King James V, disguised as “The Guidman of Ballengeich”, had an incident with the gypsies who were in the cave at the time. Drawings of the Norse god Thor followed by the sacred goat and the cup markings can be seen in the passage at the main entrance.

The Doo Cave Up to the beginning of the last century there were two caves here, the East and the West Doo caves which were connected by an underground passage. Unfortunately the West Doo cave which contained a great number of markings, collapsed during the first Worled War when a gun was fired from a battery above the cave. The East Cave has nest boxes cut into the walls and the roof has been smoothed off. There are no markings in this cave.

38 The Well Cave In the cliff below Macduff Castle is a well Cave. It contains a well of clear water. This cave is a double cave. The outer cave is connected by a low underground passage to the well Cave. It is a magnificent cave, but very dangerous. There are no markings in the Well Cave, but there is a bone-like marking on the west wall of the outer cave.

Jonathan’s Cave Jonathan‟s Cave takes its name from a poor man who lived in this cave with his family at the end of the 18th century. It is also known as the Factor‟s Cave, probably because the Factor of the Wemyss Estate had this cave as a pigeon house. All the markings are on the west wall with the exception of the ship which is on a bulge on the east wall at the back of the cave. This cave contains more markings than all the other caves put together and was only rivalled by the West Doo Cave before its collapse.

The Sloping Cave The Sloping Cave received its name because a landslide partially blocked up its entrance. There are two markings in this cave. One drawing, on the west wall, is a double disc which looks like a pair of spectacles. The other, on the east wall, is a double disc inside a rectangle which represents a “Comb Case”.

The White Cave There is only a hole in the ground to be seen.

The Gasworks Cave There are no markings in this cave, but there is a bench-like seam of rock as in Jonathan‟s Cave. At the end of the bench is a mortar of globular form in which traces of grain were found originally. A large fall of rock took place in 1959 which covered the bench and mortar, and the cave is now unsafe. The

39 name Gasworks stems from the 1860s during work on the local gasometer.

A new path with steps beyond the first two caves has been created with money from the Heritage Lottery Fund. The path avoids the fragile coastal approach past the Doo Cave. The steps are gentle and there are seats at half way. One can walk along the shore if the tide is out.

Most of us managed to climb the 76 steps to Macduff Castle on the way but some had difficulty on the steps going down.

Eddie gave a vote of thanks to Ann & Bill

Aberdour Castle We arrived in fine weather. There was a wedding in full swing with 3 very old Rolls Royces which was impressive in itself. The Bride wore a beautiful off-white dress and the Brides Maid wore a deep plum dress. The men and boys wore kilts. The wedding kept us entertained for some time. We had picnic lunch in the gardens, which were only discovered in 1970s.

Aberour Castle consists of a range of buildings that date from various periods, the earliest of which are now the most ruined. It started as a hall house, probably built around 1200 by Alan Mortimer. In 1325 King Robert the Bruce granted the lands to his nephew, Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray. In 1342 the property was granted to Sir William Douglas and it has remained in the Douglas family ever since.

In the 15th century the hall house was heightened to become a tower house. In the mid 16th century a central range was added to the south east of the tower house to provide better accommodation for James Douglas, 4th Earl of Morton. James was Lord High Chancellor from 1562 to 1572 and ruled

40 Scotland as regent from 1572 to 1578 after the abdication of Mary Queen of Scots in favour of her infant son, James VI. The last major addition to the castle was the east range built for William Douglas, 7th earl of Mortimer. He was Lord High Treasurer of Scotland between 1630 and 1636, and was one of the most powerful and wealthy men in the country. Most of the first floor of the new range was a long gallery where Sir William could display his collection of paintings and entertain his guests.

In the late 17th century the castle was badly damaged by fire. Only the east range was repaired, but plans to completely demolish the tower house and central range were abandoned due to the cost. Much of what was left has collapsed over the years. In 1725 the earl and his family moved to nearby Aberdour House. The east range continued in use as barracks, school and Masonic lodge before being placed in state care in 1924.

Isobel Wood

The Royal Scottish Academy, Edinburgh. Thursday 24th July 2008 This outing was led by Eddie Stewart.

David Allan 13th February, 1744-6th August 1796)

Sixteen people went on this expedition. We went by train from Alloa at 9.36am at a cost of £11.60. We arrived back in Alloa at various times as everyone wanted to do different things. Last home was 7.15pm. It was an excellent outing, everyone enjoying themselves. Betty Roy was sorry she had to miss this as she had an operation to her foot. The Archives people said we could organize another outing if we wished.

41 The weather was exceptionally good. When we arrived we all had morning refreshments in the excellent but expensive café. We were in the big city and I expect everything is more expensive there.

David Allan

Self portrait of David Allen, 1770

Valerie Hunter from the Art Gallery gave us a grand talk and viewing of David Allan pictures in the print room archives. There was a long table laid out with lots of pictures on it which she explained in detail. Some of the pictures were: The Foreshore at Alloa showing the glass works. She asked Eddie if he could take a picture of the foreshore now to see what the difference is. Off course the shore looks entirely different now. Horse Drawn Coal Wagon with Alloa written on the side I suggested that Eddie take a photo of the Wagon Way to E-mail to Valerie. The Black Stool (also known as Presbyterian Penance) Valerie thought this picture was a church in Edinburgh, Bob Lindsay said he thought it was the clock maker from Alloa and the church was in Dunfermline. The Highland Wedding at Blair Atholl 1780, the Penny Wedding, Silver Golf Club, A portrait of Allan‟s Father, The interior of Shaw Park with the Shaw family (or the Carthcarts) in it, the Black Stewart, self-portrait of David Allan and many more paintings. Valerie then showed us the Dunimarle Collection which was fascinating. This has been on loan since the 1970‟s and the Gallery would love to be the

42 owners of this collection. Valerie Hunter was a first class speaker and very knowledgeable about David Allan.

In the glass book case in the archives there were boxes with hundreds of paintings and copies of Allan‟s work which she said we could view at a later date.

Eddie Stewart proposed a vote of thanks to Valerie Hunter.

After this we went and had lunch with some people enjoying a picnic in the Princes Street gardens. Then we went into the Gallery.

In the Gallery there was oil an painting of Sir John Halkett of Pitfirrane Bart (1720-1793) his wife & family 1781, (probably) Ann Harker, Mrs James Tassie c1779, The Connoisseurs 1783: John Caw (died 1784), John Bonar (1747-1807) and James Bruce. In a Glass Case in the Gallery was The Origin of Painting (The Maid of Corinth) 1775.

He was born in Alloa. He left Foulis‟s academy of painting at Glasgow in 1762 after seven years‟ of study. He then obtained the patronage of Lord Cathcart and of Erskine of Mar, on whose estate he had been born. Erskine made it possible for him to travel to Rome (1764), (this was the most successful period of his life) where he stayed for ten years. In Rome Allan painted ambitious historic pictures, portraits, caricatures and genre scenes. He also copied old masters.

Among the original works which he then painted was the ”Origin of Portraiture”, now in the National Gallery at Edinburgh -representing a Corinthian maid drawing her lover‟s shadow- well known through Domenico Cunego‟s excellent engraving. This won him the gold medal given by the Academy of St Luke in the year 1773 for the best specimen of historical composition.

43 Returning from Rome in 1777, he lived in London for 2 years trying to establish himself. Unsuccessful and ill, he returned to Edinburgh in 1780. On the death of Alexander Runciman in 1786, he was appointed Director and Master of the Academy of Arts. He specialised in painting family groups. There he painted and etched in aquatint a variety of works, those for which he is best known -such as “Scotch Wedding”, “Highland Dance”, “Repentance Stool” and “Illustrations of the “Gentle Shepherd”- being remarkable for their comic humour. He also produced book illustrations and was appointed master of the Trustees‟ Academy in Edinburgh.

National Gallery of Scotland The National Gallery of Scotland, founded in 1859, is situated on The Mound, between the Old and New Towns of Edinburgh. It is an elegant Neo-Classical building designed by William Playfair, and its collections, containing numerous works of superb quality, span Western European painting from the 14th to the late 19th century.

Isobel Wood

Visit to Inchcolm Abbey and House of the Binns Saturday 30th August 2008

Saturday 30th August, when fifteen of our members met in the car park at the Alloa Health Centre, was rather overcast and could have turned out to be rainy, but we were lucky and the rain stayed away all day. We all piled into five cars and set off on the last outing of the Summer Programme. We welcomed two new members who chose to join us on our visit. We set off at 9am to arrive at South Queensferry for 10.15am where we would join the Maid of the Forth to take us over to the island of Inchcolm and Inchcolm Abbey. All five cars managed to navigate across the Kincardine Bridge with all the

44 pitfalls that could entail, along the M9 to the turn off for the Forth Road Bridge and then on to South Queensferry all arriving intact and on time. Another two members arrived unexpectedly and then we were 17 in total. We even managed to get a group ticket with a 10% discount, which pleased everyone.

The Maid of the Forth as we were informed can take 200 persons, although there was not near that amount of people on board, there was a fair crowd. The River Forth was like a millpond thankfully, as one or two of our group were a bit apprehensive to say the least. The running commentary on board was excellent; it gave details of everything of interest as we passed by such as the oil and gas terminals and the other little uninhabited islands like Inchmickery and Inchkeith. Someone shouted out they had spotted seals and all the cameras were clicking. Inchcolm soon came into view and we had our first glimpse of the Abbey. Very tranquil and peaceful was the first impression. Our time on the island was limited to an hour and a half. True to form and first things first we all got the food and drink from the haversacks and tucked in. The only disadvantage was the wasps, and oh boy were they out in force, a bit of a nuisance but did not deter us from enjoying the atmosphere. There were towers to be climbed and every other nook and cranny we could find. We came across chairs all laid out as if for a ceremony of some sort and guess what? There was to be a wedding and the bride and groom with all the guests were arriving off the boat that was to take us back. Seemingly it is the place for nuptials. Some of the group explored the gun emplacements left after the Second World War. The shop, which was stocked with the usual Historic Scotland stuff including Duncan‟s Chocolate, was a great favourite. Attached to this was a small museum which housed a hogback gravestone of the Viking era and stone crosses.

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When it was time for the boat to arrive with the wedding party it was a wee bit later than it should have been but every one likes a wedding and we enjoyed watching all the guests in their finery alighting from the boat. There was even more excitement when it was the bride and her bridesmaids turn to alight. The bride was beautiful as always. By the time we got back to Queensferry we were running 30 minutes late, as we were due at the House of the Binns at 2.30pm.

Now the History of Inchcolm :- Columba‟s Isle Inchcolm means „Columba‟s Isle‟, though the „Iona of the east‟ has no known link with St Columba. The island is dominated by its dramatically located abbey complex, comprising of the best- preserved ecclesiastical group of buildings in Scotland. The Augustinian canons settled here in the early 12th century, enjoying the island‟s isolation and tranquillity. However, its location in the Firth of Forth also made it a target for naval raids throughout the wars with England from the 14th to the mid – 16th century. The brethren increasingly spent more time ashore in Fife. After the Protestant Reformation of 1560 brought monastic life to an end, the island continued to serve in the defence of the country up the Second World War. The island‟s remains testify to this history of conflict as well as the history of the medieval church in Scotland. An island retreat The island retreat of Inchcolm was home to a hermit in the Dark Ages, and the island‟s oldest relic is a 10th - century hogback tombstone. In 1123 Alexander 1 sheltered here during a storm, and resolved to build a monastery in thanks for his deliverance. But he died in 1124 before being able to keep his promise. It was left to his brother, David I, to invite Augustinian canons to establish a priory on the island. It was raised to full abbey status in 1235.

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The 12th – century abbey church was enlarged eastward around 1200. The original church was later converted into the abbot‟s residence, and the later church is now mostly wall footings. However, a remarkable 13th – century fresco painting of a funeral procession survives in a tomb recess. Also remarkable are the stone screens dividing the choir from the nave, at the base of the lofty bell tower.

The cloister is the most complete in Scotland, and three covered cloister walks survive. The octagonal chapter house dates to the 13th century. It has a fine warming room above it. The dormitory, refectory and other rooms also survive roofed.

Island of Conflict In the late middle-ages Inchcolm was attacked by English ships on numerous occasions forcing the canons to desert the abbey for periods of time. However, Abbot Walter Bower found sufficient peace here to write his great history of Scotland, Scotichronicon, in the early 15th century.

The story of conflict does not end with the demise of the abbey in the 16th Century. In 1795, during the Napoleonic Wars, a gun battery was installed when the French threatened to invade. In the first half of the 20th century, the island was heavily fortified to help defend Edinburgh, Rosyth Naval Base and the Forth Bridge.

The House of the Binns We all just managed to get there on time after negotiating a narrow street with a big tourist bus. It was not that far but the traffic in South Queensferry at that time of day was very congested to say the least. The weather was still keeping dry although it was still very dull and humid. Mrs Kathleen

47 Dalyell gave us a warm welcome and explained that things were a bit hectic as they had more visitors than expected and had to rearrange things somewhat. Anyway we managed all 17 of us to get organized and our guide took charge, a lovely lady and very well versed in the history of the place. We were all quite enthralled with the history and surroundings of the house and its furnishings. After saying our thanks and goodbyes some of us made use of the picnic tables for refreshment in the lovely grounds beside the peacocks, an appropriate way to end what was a lovely day out with friends.

Some facts about the House of the Binns Located 3 miles east of Linlithgow and 5miles west of South Queensferry is the House of the Binns, the home of the Dalyell family from the early 17th Century. The name derives from two hills, or Binns in Celtic, on which the house is situated. In 1612, the estate was acquired by Thomas Dalyell, an Edinburgh merchant and between 1621-30 he completely rebuilt the original house on the site. His son the Royalist General Tam Dalyell (1615-85) is perhaps its most notable owner. He extended the Binns, adding the first of several towers said they have been built to prevent the devil blowing the house away.

Today little can be seen of the original 17th Century three storey structure, but it still forms the core of the house. It was extended in the mid –18th Century and again c.1810 by the architect William Burn (1789-1870), who moulded it into the Baronial style, adding further towers and mock battlements. The resulting appearance was that of a stylised fort, but importantly the house maintains a record of changing taste over a period of two centuries.

48 The inside is more impressive that the exterior; there are fine cornices and mouldings that are amongst the earliest examples in Scotland. The High Hall and King’s Room date from the time of the original house and are finely decorated. The Sea Room gives fine views over the Firth of Forth, while the Library includes a portrait of General Tam and features a fine mid-18th century fireplace. The rooms contain a fascinating collection of family portraits, Scottish furniture and Chinese and European porcelain. General Tam‟s memorabilia are preserved, including his Bible and sword.

In 1944, the Binns was the first to be acquired by the National Trust for Scotland under the Country Houses Scheme. The Dalyells retain part of the house, which is today home of Tam Dalyell who was up until two years ago Father of the House of Commons.

The grounds include a woodland walk with views over the Firth of Forth with a folly in the shape of a tower on the summit of one of the hills that can be seen from some distance.

Jack & Sadie Archibald

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