Annandale Wayannandale Way

Home , Annandale Way, Annan Academy, Applegarthtown, Cummertrees, Ecclefechan, Hoddom

We took a walk on the We took a walk on the Annandale WayAnnandale Way

On the horizon the hills climbed so that the sun could nest between them.

We took a walk in Annandale and at the end we asked, The Annan ran softly and smooth its golden ‘Can we walk the whole way?’ cool waters rustling like leaves.

o t t i h e S c s h S o g t l w a i n y n c C a o a h s n t e a d n n d

a r i g v n e i r t a v r a

b l l e e l

y e

w w r g w . s . o s u l o n w a t h c o n n e c t i ...For walkers after fairy tale dreams, there’s nothing like the Annandale Way... Hoddom Primary School

...Annandale Way, Annandale Way, What wonders lie within you today? Annandale Way, Annandale Way, There’s lots of things that we can say. ...For walkers after There’s your countryside filled with mystery. a life-changing There’s your paths filled with history. Annandale Way, Annandale Way, experience when will you cease to amaze me? Annan Academy there’s nothing better than the Annandale Way... Hoddom Primary School

...For walkers after Landscapes! Surprises! Nature! Fun! there’s nothing better than the Annandale Way... Hoddom Primary School ...The cows were

...I’ve heard the screaming prisoner cowering from rain. dying in pain, in the dungeon of Spedlin Tower! I have heard the fast The wind howled footsteps trip trapping of the Jardine- Pattersons running over my weary through the trees. bridge. I couldn’t hear the ghost, but I could feel the tickle of it! The buttercups are I’ve heard the footsteps, thudding over my bridge, day after day, night after like little lights in night, those were the thuddings of the Corncockle Quarry workers. They the grass... dirtied my water, washing each day, Annan Academy washing the sandstone dust away...

Lochmaben Primary School

...Come and grow with me and I’ll never stop surprising you... Moffat Academy ...Every call, whistle and hoot runs like a river through my head... Lockerbie Academy Welcome to the Annandale Way

Embark on a 55 mile journey have a choice, do you take the The guide has been broken into through Annandale with an Eastern arm through the fabulous easy sections which enable the opportunity to delve into some of Scottish Wildlife Trust’s Eskrigg Annandale Way to be covered the cultural and industrial history Nature Reserve, spending a night comfortably in five days. You may of this ancient border region in Lockerbie before continuing on however wish to extend some of whilst immersing yourself in the through the wonderful Gallabery your days and to run one section tranquillity and beauty of a little plantation or do you go for the into another choosing alternative explored corner of Scotland. more challenging route up over points to break your walk. Either The guide is designed to allow Joe Graham’s monument which way we have provided details of you to follow the Annandale lends spectacular views across local accommodation providers and Way from Source to Sea (north Annandale and past Castle Loch, transport connections but we would to south) or Sea to Source (south with its sculpture trail, for a night advise checking these in advance to north), which ever way you in Lochmaben? as new accommodation may be chose to go you will have the available or bus times change. Which ever way you chose you’re opportunity to experience the sure to encounter the warm Before embarking on the Annandale hospitality of the market towns of hospitality of the locals and have Way you should ensure you are Annan and Moffat. You will also experiences you’re unlikely to suitably equipped for inclement forget. weather and carrying the appropriate OS Maps 322 Annandale and 330 Moffat & St Mary’s.

Some sections of the route do take in high hills and rough ground particularly the Devil’s Beef Tub and Joe Graham’s monument. Everyone has the right to be on most land and inland Enjoy Scotland’s water providing they act responsibly. Your access rights and responsibilities are explained fully in the Scottish Outdoor Annandale Way outdoors responsibly Access Code. Whether you’re in the outdoors or managing the outdoors, the key things are to: • take responsibility for your own actions • respect the interests of other people • care for the environment. Visit outdooraccess-scotland.com or contact your local Scottish Natural Heritage office.

Moffat – Devil’s Beef Tub - Moffat

Distance: 22km [13½ miles] Upland Environment

Chalk Rig Edge The Devil’s Beef Tub section The Devil’s 500m of this walk involves steep Beef Tub Spout climbs and rough ground – Craig be prepared! 535m Viewpoint

Route, described clockwise: Starting in the Station Park car park (OS Map 330 GR084,049), follow the youthful ANNANDALE WAY River Annan upstream from Moffat, and along the valley road turning off for Meikleholmside where you A701 Blue Cairn climb the old Edinburgh coach road. 584m Crossing the A701 takes you past a Roman watch tower and over Ericstane Hill, before you re-cross the road to begin your circumnavigation of the Devils Beef B719

R Greygill Head

Tub corrie. Climb onto Annanhead Hill and a range v

e 474m r

r e

t that rims the upper limits of the Annan catchment. A A a n W n k spectacular view opens into the Beef Tub corries and a c n o rn down and down the green corridor of Annandale Bi towards the Solway coast. Gallow On the coll between Chalk Rig Edge and Spout Hill M74 Craig, you’ll squelch across the watershed between Moffat the sources of the tributaries that feed the Annan and Tweed. This is the official start or finish of the Annandale Way. After you have celebrated, turn south into the valley here, following the rapidly growing waters in a gully that will spit you out below Corehead G a rp Farm. Here you meet a minor road that leads you back o l W a to Moffat, where a welcome for walkers awaits. ter d oa R ed The Crook Beattock

Come and grow with me and I’ll never stop surprising you. • Moffat Academy The Devil’s Beef Tub: “It looks as if four hills were laying their heads together to shut out daylight from the dark hollow space between them. A damned deep, black, blackguard – looking abyss of a hole it is.” Sir Walter Scott

Black Knowe 549m

My infancy started at the top of the abyss, rolling and gouging my way down the craig. As I reach the valley after carving my way down the hillside, I come to flat land. I babble my way down to the sea, sandwiched between hills like lions about to pounce. Every mile I go I get closer and closer to my destiny. To start the cycle again. Moffat Academy

w I , g n i n r o m s i h T . g n i h t o n s a w I y a d r e t s e Y a

o WOODLAND & TREES • WATER WATER • LOOKOUTS & HIDING P

t LA h C E

i S n

• g INDUS but her daylight fromthedarkhollowspacebetweenthem. A damneddeep, black, blackguard –lookingabyss TR The bareMoffatHillswereoncecloaked withnativewoodland. The Borders Forest Trust plantorestoresuchhabitats. Currentlyonly2%oflandinthe e Ia m r Y •GHOS were layingtheirheadstogethertoshutout The Devil’s Beef Tub: “It looksasiffourhills built inthe1820’s, andnowbytheM74. The volume was followedby Telford’s CarlisletoGlasgowroad of traffic todaycanreach80decibels. The 1860’s ight no T of aholeitis.” Sir Walter Scott Peregrine, Merlinandgolden S & railway developmentcamethesameway. The sameroutethrough Annandale (and by Evan Water) usedbyRomanInvaders plover intheMoffatHills. w During 1990’s somestretches oftheEvan Water were T , enj o ORIES •F during WWII ‘Guests of War’ issetthere. Robin Jenkinswas anevacuee toMoffat Otter walkways andfeaturestoencourage salmon Roman Watch Tower. Annan catchmentisbroadleafedwoodland. ying t AMOUS F he f diverted fortheM74construction. i rs t sec onds f t AMILES •NR

spawning wereincluded.

The Devil’s M74 Beef Tub hidden here. Stolen cattle glaciated valley. Classic U-shaped ae hillside” Borderrhyme “Annan, Tweed andClydea‘riseooto’ he b egin g ofm G Y •TRA Chalk RigEdge 500m

into thefamily. his sistermarried regular visitorafter Wallace was a Halliday. William Corehead by Thomas A peletowerbuiltat

VEL &T ANNANDALE WAY ANNANDALE y en dles jo ur OURISM •LTEA Gallow Gallow Hill Moffat Look upforthevapour trails of500 Spout 535m Craig flights adayover Annandale–a for seatroutandsalmonfishing. tenth longestriverinScotland, popular as Annan. At 49miles, the Annan isthe Source ofriversClydeand Tweed aswell ancient landscapes. pockets ofashandhazelaresurvivors In hiddengulliesoftheMoffatHills, small in 1760’s. also triedhere Copper mining West Indies. exported tothe Chalybeate containing 1748. Water discovered in Hartfell Spa, different kindoffootprint. ne of RAFvictoryintheBattleBritain. Dowding (1882-1970)was thearchitect Son ofMoffat Air ChiefMarshal LordHigh y has ‘Walkers are Welcome’ status. it’s own branch line1883-1954. Now A popularspatown C18-C20. Servedby . •M of TURE •GOL f at A cade m OG 10,000 yearsago. and water over action ofglacier Hills createdby cave here taken refugeina Merlin saidtohave (808m). Dumfriesshire high pointin Hart Fell, a Y •FLIGHT y

w I , g n i n r o m s i h T . g n i h t o n s a w I y a d r e t s e Y a

o WOODLAND & TREES • WATER WATER • LOOKOUTS & HIDING P

t LA h C E

i S n

• g INDUS but her TR e Ia m r Y •GHOS ight no T S & w T , enj o ORIES •F ying t AMOUS F he f i rs t sec onds f t AMILES •NR he b egin g ofm G Y •TRA VEL &T y en dles jo ur OURISM •LTEA ne y . •M of TURE •GOL f at A cade m OG Y •FLIGHT y Moffat – Devil’s Beef Tub - Moffat Moffat Tub- Beef Devil’s – Moffat can feel me, squelch! But do they me,squelch!can feel Butdothey The longgrass meup. iscovering know AsItumble whatIamyet? I am happy, everyone canseeme I amhappy, everyone Ihave now reachedbottom, the No-one can see me yet, but they butthey No-one canseemeyet, down the hills I laugh as all the hills Ilaughasallthe down the rocks andsides. tickle my feet for whatIreally am,ayoung, energetic and healthy river.energetic andhealthy Moffat Academy Moffat above you, look up to spot a buzzard imagine whatitseesbelow. How will the landscape,youwalkingand river rollingtowardsthesealook When youhearamewlinghigh circling. Asyouwatchit,tryto from upthere? Moffat – St Ann’s Distance: 11km (7 miles) (crossing point A701

1 mile north of St Ann’s) E v a n W a t e r MOFFAT

G a rp o l W Source at er d oa R Turn right out from the Moffat Station Park car park ed The Crook walking for about a mile on the A701, before turning Beattock M74 left through the fields of Dyke Farm, marching first FOREST a Roman Road and then the Southern Upland Way OF AE under the M74 and through Beattock village. Climb

K ANNANDALE WAY ‘the crooked road’ and turn left onto an old drove road inn el W A701 to drop to Cauldholm and the valley greened by the at er Kinnel Water, a tributary of the Annan. Follow a minor road and track through Edwardsrig Plantation, in sight B7020 of Raehills House and its classic parkland, until you R

i reach the southbound A701 where a bus can be taken v e r to your nights’ accommodation. A n n a to sea n B7076

Raehills

St. Ann’s

EVAN WATER • I’m lonely and trapped, like a bird that can’t spread its wings • Moffat Academy THE FORGOTTEN RIVER • Now I see, under the motorway, the sad river….. and, if a river could cry, this one wo uld . W

h e r

Walking north, the Annandale e I a m w r Sea Wayfarer starts to climb out of the

green and pastoral lands which i t n g Start your day a mile north of St Ann’s on glitter with Friesian cows. The hills h i s , a c r the A701 (OS Map 322 GR072, 953), leave the ahead rise and spread, roughening classic parkland of Raehills House, following and browning in great muscular

the Kinnel Water through Edwardsrig i s p a c Plantation and a minor road to Cauldholm. animal backs, promising a new kind

An old drove road then crosses hills towards k

of journey soon. Looking from the e Beattock fort. Turn right to join The Southern t f Crooked Road into the valley to the a l s … • M o f Upland Way, dropping to Beattock on ‘the crooked road’, and under the M74. Follow south of Moffat, the Annan is seen waymarkers across Dyke Farm fields once gathering strength in its rendezvous

marched by Romans to your left, rejoining f with the Evan Water from the a t A the A701 into Moffat. north west and Moffat Water from c a d e m the north east. Threewater Foot, a y to source powerful symmetry.

R i v e r A n n a n T h e r i v e r i s l k

t h e R o m an soldiers who once walked this way – They marched and marched all night and day. • Moffat Academy moss-coated; fern-bearded.’ bluebell-lit frombelow; you’d caretosee.Theyare limbs, offering anyshape into facesandwithered ‘… contortedandgnarled Lochwood. The veteranoaksof diversion Route WOODLAND & TREES • WATER WATER • LOOKOUTS & HIDING P LA C E S

• INDUS ...As I join with more...As Ijoinwith and more ofmy brothers, merges Moffat Academy my of them...• memory that with TR Y •GHOS T Harestanes windfarm. S & T ORIES •F Sitka spruceisusedforcheapfurniture Forgotten placesunderthemotorway make of landuseinthe Annan catchment. AMOUS F Conifer plantationsmake up27% interesting habitatsandhidingplaces. fertilisation thefemalecoversthem Raehills House. SeatofJohnstone clan, “Ettrick Shepherd”, poet&songwriter(1770-1835). who kept watch onthewestern border the importanceofsheepfarmingandwooltrade The fountainwas giftedtoMoffatinrecognitionof became aretailoutletwithhandloomsforvisitors. depressions inthebed. After Salmon deposittheireggsin and manytypesofpaper. The Moffatram dedicatedtoJames Hogg, the slaughterhouse untilthelate1950’s, itthen AMILES •NR

The woollenmillbuildingwas originallya with Englandfor600 years.

St Ann’s with gravel. a

e r G Y •TRA the Romans. construction since quarried forroad Beattock gravels VEL &T OURISM •LTEA Beattock first homeofJohnstones. Lochwood Tower (MidC15), years old. thought tobeover400 the pollardedtreesare Lochwood oakwoods– Moffat TURE •GOL of theDevil’s Beef Tub in1831. their livesinasnowstormnorth of aRoyal Mailcoach, wholost Goodfellow, GuardandDriver James McGeorgeandJohn Stones tothememoryof

buried inMoffat1836. John LoudonMcAdam(Tarmac) and gaslines. major electricity Annandale carries

i v

n a n OG Y •FLIGHT WOODLAND & TREES • WATER WATER • LOOKOUTS & HIDING P LA C E S

• INDUS TR Y •GHOS T S & T ORIES •F AMOUS F AMILES •NR G Y •TRA VEL &T OURISM •LTEA TURE •GOL OG Y •FLIGHT We closedoff river felt seethe sadto wanting befree to from rocks the thinking awordthinking rhythm intime a rainbow hovered over hill. the which squeezed and corseted it. which squeezed andcorseted We burrowed M74 underthe We marched road aRoman did and walk up a poem with your steps.) and met the Evan the and met Water never knew itwasnever knew there. Invent acharacterorthinkofsomeone very different fromyou.Walk asifyou (Or doaspupilsfromMoffat Academy delivery? Documentwhatyoudoand are them.WhatifyouwereaRoman On the wayOn the Beattock to past ofpylons anarmy or aDroverpostmanonlong by the motorway, the by experience onthewalk. Moffat Academy with oursteps. with like centurions but someofus Moffat – St Ann’s St Ann’s – Lochmaben – Hoddom Distance St Ann’s – Lochmaben 16 km (10 miles) Lochmaben – Hoddom 22km (14 miles) You may wish to walk this section in two days, with a break in either Lochmaben or Hightae.

Source St. Ann’s

Johnstonebridge r e From the A701 one mile north of St Ann’s (OS Map 322 t a GR072, 953) head up through Hazelbank Plantation, down W e Great Hill M74 f to Blackburn Cottage and over the fields past Greenbeck ry 287m B723 D and Heathfield farms. A series of minor roads, paths The Joe Graham’s section through pastureland, and plantation tracks bring you of this walk involves steep past Lochbrow, through Spedlin’s Flow and Corncockle to climbs and rough ground – Kinnel Bridge on the B7020, which is quite busy, walk Templand be prepared! 1½ miles into Lochmaben. Departing Lochmaben follow the path beside Castle Loch Millhousebridge and then through farmland to Hightae. From here a series Applegarthtown of minor roads and forest track climb the slopes above Mill Loch Rammerscales House and out onto the open hill. Follow Lochmaben the waymarks over an old fort and up to Joe Graham’s Kirk Lockerbie monument where the whole jigsaw of Annandale Loch B7068 Castle A709 spreads, hill to sea. The Annandale Way now goes east, Hightae Loch through the fields of Almagill farm crossing the Annan at Mill Loch Williamwath Bridge. (Note that you could opt to leave this Hightae road at Dormont and follow the riverside track instead.) B7020 Burnswark After the bridge, take a path on the right, then tracks Hill Kettleholm 287m and small roads, keeping you east of the Annan past the Joe Graham’s M74 ruins of St Mungo’s Church, on through Sorrysike Moor Holmains Monument and finding the river again at Brocklerigg. Follow the river Moor until opposite Hoddom Castle, crossing on the Mainholm 244m Ecclefechan

Hoddom r Dalton e at footbridge, either for the castle or Hoddom Bridge (B723). St Kintigern’s W n Castle ei Graveyard M (OS Map 322 GR164,727) Mouswald B725 to sea Repentance Woodcock Air Carrutherstown Tower 129m ‘I am the river Annan glowing and gleaming in the sun, If you want to see me, come with tea and a bun’ • Lochmaben Primary Sea

From Hoddom Bridge on the B723, (OS Map 322 GR164,727) follow a path along the south bank of the Annan, crossing at Mainholm footbridge. Then head along the river to Brocklerigg, leaving it to go on through Sorrysike Moor and along minor roads past the ruins of St Mungo’s church until you reach Williamwath Bridge. After crossing the Annan, the official route follows the road left. Alternatively, I am the River Annan I am gleaming and gurgling. turn right to follow the river, emerging back on I am the River Annan I trickle along. route at Dormont. Follow minor roads before I am the River Annan hear horses hooves moving. heading across the fields of Almagill farm and up I am the River Annan I am the home to many salmon. the steep climb to Joe Graham’s Monument where I am the River Annan I see the birds sing you are rewarded by the whole jigsaw of Annandale and flying in the sky. spreading below you, hill to sea. You then drop I am the River Annan I see the trees swaying in the wind. over an old fort and through the woodlands of I am the River Annan I feel the stones basking Rammerscales along minor roads into Hightae and together on the surface. then over the fields and along the shores of Castle I am the River Annan I smell the flowers Loch into Lochmaben. that grow on the river bank. I hear the steam train carrying the sandstone. Follow the B7020 out of Lochmaben for 1½ miles (note it is quite busy) and turn right at Kinnel Lochmaben Primary School Bridge. Out of these lowlands formed by the junction of the Annan and Kinnel Water, a series of minor roads, paths through pastureland, and plantation tracks gently lead you towards the uplands, firstly through Corncockle Plantation and Spedlin’s Flow, then past Lochbrow and over the fields of Heathfield, before heading up through Hazelbank plantation and finally emerging on the A701 one mile north of St Ann’s. (OS Map GR322072, 953) to source

I am the Annan River, the biggest of the land. the smaller ones go into me, to help me to expand. • Lochmaben Primary HT FLIG Y • Ecclefechan OG y GEOL RE • TU imar Willows are grown for bio-mass power production and can be harvested after three years. Lockerbie . • Hoddom Pr TERA • LI RISM OU y a Jardines of Applegarth moved to of Jardines tower C15. Spedlin’s & T VEL Where might future Annandale way- Where might future farers get wet feet if river levels rise with climate change? breeding and migration Growing, patterns are already changing in Scotland. Applegarth Millhousebridge Mill Loch was last Scottish home of Mill Loch was rarest freshwater Britain’s vendace fish, species. Spedlin’s Tower (c1500) built (c1500) Tower Spedlin’s haunted Said to be by Jardines. who was ‘Dunty’ Porteous by forgotten in a dungeon and gnawed off his hands. Johnstonebridge Fertile soil in floodplains Fertile due to sediments left by Annan. the river TRA Y • Castle Loch is internationally important for wintering pink– footed geese and goosander G Hightae he Annandale W Dalton Hazelbank plantation. Conifers plantation. Hazelbank Annan river up 27% of the make land cover. catchment han t Lochmaben er t tt ER • EN ILIES AM hing be t Templand Crannog remains at Crannog flow. Spedlin’s F OUS AM s no ’ e Corncockle sandstone quarry. Lochmaben Castle built 1385. Lochmaben Castle built 1385. junction for At a strategic over centuries. travellers her St Ann’s F IES • OR T un! t Dinosaur footprints found here. Hilltop monument to Joe Graham, a Hilltop monument to Joe Graham, who died in 1893. master of fox-hounds nearby hills – Range Castle and Moss Two Castle were iron age hill forts. Torthorwald e! F Corncockle sandstone quarry heavily S S & T be the birthplace of Robert the Bruce. A C12 motte and bailey stood in what became the first Lords of Annandale in became the first Lords of Name suggests it belonged to Knights Templar. to Knights Name suggests it belonged worked late C19. Helped build Glasgow. build Glasgow. Helped late C19. worked is now the golf course. The Bruce Family Bruce Family The is now the golf course. atur 1124 and established Lochmaben, said to said 1124 and established Lochmaben, Collin ises! N S GHO Y • pr TR Parkgate ! Sur s

DUS IN

•

S a

E c

C s A

L P

L D O O W W • S E E R T & D N A W R E T A L • R E T A K O O T U O N I D I H & S G d For walkers after Lan INDUSTRY • GHOSTS & STORIES • FAMOUS FAMILIES • ENERGY • TRAVEL & TOURISM • LITERATURE • GEOLOGY • FLIGHT ES • AC L River Milk P

G I brush the edges of the bank as I flow uniquely and my cold waters bond together into a shimmering mixture as it cascades freely and glows a sun kissed bronze colour Notice all the ways in which water crosses S & H I D N your path on its way to the river. Give each

O U T as I calmly weave my way down with River Annan. crossing its own name. This might depend

O K As we part I never lose hope because somewhere, on the colour of the water, the sounds it someday we will meet again as the water never dies makes, or your manner of crossing, e.g.

T E R • L ‘Linda’s Leap’ or ‘Guinness Gargle’. A and keeps on going to new and exciting places to seek. T E R W

A I gradually get bigger and stronger as I age and soon meet more rivers. As I set off to another place, my family takes over the river until I finally make my way back. It is spectacular how many places I have visited &

A N D & T R E S • W will someday visit the whole world.

O D L Hoddom Primary W

St Ann’s – Lochmaben – Hoddom

B7068 W

e M 287m

Hill

r Great Hill

e 287m

W Burnswark

f M74

y Graveyard

r 129m St Kintigern’s St Kintigern’s D Ecclefechan

Woodcock Air Woodcock B723 Castle Hoddom Lockerbie Tower

B725 Repentance Kettleholm Dalton

Millhousebridge A709 Johnstonebridge M74 Hightae Monument Loch B7020 Joe Graham’s Castle You may wish to walk this section in wish to walk this may You with a break in Lockerbie two days, Lochmaben Applegarthtown Templand Moor 244m St. Ann’s St. Mouswald Kirk Loch Hightae

ANNANDALE WAY Mill Loch Mill Loch Carrutherstown Holmains y cadem Source erbie A k to sea escent moon... Loc e a cr h shone lik t ir F

From the A701 one mile north of St Ann’s (OS Map 322 mile north of St Ann’s From the A701 one up through Hazelbank Plantation, GR072, 953) head Cottage and over fields past down to Blackburn roads, minor of series A farms. Heathfield and Greenbeck and plantation bring you paths through pastureland, and Corncockle Flow through Spedlin’s past Lochbrow, and Millhousebridge. Templand to the road between left here, following the ‘Lockerbie’ sign, to Turn the Annan. If, Millhousebridge down the banks of Applegarthtown stopping in Lockerbie turn left after walking along quiet roads leaving the Annandale Way, turn right along the into the town. If you’re carrying on across Dryfe Water, road through Gallaberry Plantation Garden. Here is along quiet roads to Lockerbie Memorial along the A709. a second opportunity to enter Lockerbie the through road main the cross south, Continuing Reserve. Followplantation that makes up Eskrigg Nature drop road, minor a along Southfield Pilmur, through on thewith walking right turn you where Kettleholm towards and through the plantation past of Milk to your left Water where a sharp rightMilkbank Kennels. Carry on to Broom Annandale the of loop westward the rejoin you see will Milk the before just Farm, Brocklerigg through Go Way. opposite until river the follow and Annan the joins footbridge,Hoddom Castle, crossing on the Mainholm either for the castle or Hoddom Bridge on the B723. (OS Map 322 GR164,727). y

ol Lockerbie – Hoddom 14km (9 miles) – Hoddom 14km Lockerbie St Ann’s – Lockerbie 20km (12½ miles) 20km (12½ – Lockerbie St Ann’s Distance St Ann’s – Millhousebridge– Hoddom – Ann’s St ...High Up; joyful as giants, Far off the S Lockerbie Academy. Lockerbie imprisoned for baking bad bread A lingeringA taste bread? bad of bread bitter-tasting or even poisonous. bread The Templand area still murmurs area with the The Templand The lanes around Templand were once filled, filled, once were Templand lanes around The terrible haunting of Spedlin’s Tower and theterrible Tower haunting of Spedlin’s dyke-to-dyke,with the walking of men heads to and from work at Corncockle work Quarry.to from and They infamous Spedlin’s Tower. Perhaps the QuarryPerhaps Tower. Spedlin’s infamous off hands. His crime? his own he was Some say transported the the sandstone crossing rail, by a forgetful Sir Alexander, where he accidentally where Sir Alexander, a forgetful starved to death. chewed he had before But not He was confined in the dungeon of the Tower by Tower confined in of He was the dungeon the in cornfields because but unwelcome they made Annan on a now-ricketyAnnan on bridge just north the of was named for thewas purple once abundant flower Jardine Family by miller, James Porteus (c 1650). James Porteus (c 1650). Family by miller, Jardine y cadem to source erbie A k er hand • Loc Sea elines on an open, eag If you ignore the Lockerbie diversions, you will If you ignore the Lockerbie Gardens and cross the main road at the Memorial through follow minor roads over Dryfe Water, of the Gallaberry and onto along the banks 1km later, Annan into Millhousebridge. About Annandale you rejoin the western loop of the Out of these lowlands formed by the Way. a series junction of the Annan and Kinnel Water, and of minor roads, paths through pastureland, the plantation tracks gently lead you towards Plantation uplands, firstly through Corncockle then past Lochbrow and Flow, and Spedlin’s heading over the fields of Heathfield, before finally up through Hazelbank Plantation and of emerging on the A701 one mile north Map GR322 072, 953) (OS St Ann’s. From Hoddom Bridge on the B723 (OS Map 322 B723 (OS Map Bridge on the From Hoddom along the south bank follow a path GR164,727), footbridge crossing at Mainholm of the Annan, of About 1km north Brocklerigg Farm. and onto loop of the Ananndale take the easterly the farm ‘Lockerbie’. Soon you will have signposted Way, your of Milk to your right as you make the Water Kennels, Southfield, way north past Milkbank the Eskrigg Nature Reserve. Firpark and on into to divert into There are three opportunities of these is in the Nature Lockerbie, the first along the A7009 and the final Reserve, a second plantation. one after Gallaberry f

e h t Tracing the river along its path like a palm reader following St Ann’s – Millhousebridge– Hoddom – Ann’s St INDUSTRY • GHOSTS & STORIES • FAMOUS FAMILIES • ENERGY • TRAVEL & TOURISM • LITERATURE • GEOLOGY • FLIGHT ES • AC L P

G St Ann’s

Johnstonebridge S & H I D N

O U T The Jardines were early pioneers in Queensland Australia. In 1865 John Jardine named an ‘Annan’ O K River there. It is also a fishing destination, but unlike the Scottish Annan, has crocodiles. T E R • L A Site of Jardine Hall (1814) was demolished in 1964. Parkgate Jardine, Matheson & Co was formed in 1832, traded with T E R W A Jardines of Applegarth moved China in tea and opium and later involved in banking. to Spedlin’s tower C15. Millhousebridge was built in 1814 as Templand an estate village for Jardine Hall. Steven’s Croft biomass plant, Applegarth a village on a C8-11 Millhousebridge largest in Scotland. Can monastic site with a church and the power 70,000 homes.

A N D & T R E S • W Jardine burial enclosure. Applegarthtown church Applegarth

O D L and graveyard.

W Dryfe Sands – the last great battle between Minsca Border families Maxwell and Johnstone, 1593. Confluence wind farm. of Annan and diversion Ladyward Roman Fort and Torwood marching Route Kinnel Water. Lockerbiecamp. In the invasion of 79AD, they walked 15-25 A welcome to Lockerbie miles a day and built temporary fortified camp at the end of each day’s march. Tougher footwear We would love to invite you to was developed for Scottish conditions. Lockerbie. There’s a lot to do, from Lockerbie Dairy or ‘the places to get refreshments to places to cheesie’. Eskrigg nature reserve managed by Lockerbie Wildlife Trust, is on get your energy back. Why not go for Burnswark Hill - an Hightae the site of an old curling pond. iron age fort and a delicious ice cream? Or if it’s raining, Roman camp where visit our local library. We have two there may have been a siege in the conquest Church of Scotland and one Catholic of Scotland. Church, with friendly ministers. We St Mungo’s also have a memorial for all the people graveyard (‘Mungo’ One of many placenames in a familiar name for that died tragically in the Lockerbie air Annandale which include ‘holm’ – Kentigern). (‘Meadow beside a river’) Ecclefechan disaster on the 21st December 1988. 70% of land use in the Annan catchment is agricultural, much of We hope you enjoy your time on the walk. it used for cattle grazing. Birthplace of Victorian essayist Lockerbie Academy Dalton & historian Thomas Carlyle. Every call, whistle and hoot. Runs like a river through my head. • Lockerbie Academy S • INDUSTRY • GHOSTS & STORIES • FAMOUS FAMILIES • ENERGY • TRAVEL & TOURISM • LITERATURE • GEOLOGY • FLIGHT CE I rush across the stones, A tive dive L a rs P e i r o Flicking up water. G C n Suddenly I come to flat And struggle to make it across. S & H I D N Collect some objects which could I’m downhill again, O U T have magic qualities (collecting Feeling the wind through my droplets, O K may be in the form of sketching Rushing, rushing from Moffat. or a few words if the objects are T E R • L A too big to move!). Ask ‘what Down by Lochmaben, if…?’ e.g. What if leaves contain

T E R W Passing Lockerbie A secret messages? What if a leaf floats downstream to Annan and Gliding through Annan. a fisherman ‘reads’ it? I rise upwards, As other waters join me

A N D & T R E S • W in my quest for freedom. Then I sink back down again, O D L

W While the cattle drink from me.

I keep on swishing through the hills, The light fading now and then, As the stone crawls overhead, When the people build bridges to get across me. I’m nearing the end of my life. I was born in the Moffat hills but I’m heading for the Solway, Down to the firth.

Lockerbie Academy

St Ann’s – Millhousebridge – Hoddom Hoddom – Barnkirk Point - Annan Distance: 17 (10½ miles)

Hoddom er at Castle W St Kintigern’s n Source ei Graveyard M B725 From Hoddom Bridge on the B723 (OS Map 322 GR164,727) follow the path on the eastern bank, past Meinfoot farm and on into Brydekirk where the route Woodcock Air crosses, to the Bridge and then follows the western bank Repentance Tower 129m along the wooded riverside path, until re-crossing again B723 ANNANDALE WAY at the Cuthbertson Memorial Bridge for Annan town.

In Annan head up onto the main street cross the road B7020 and turn right towards the bridge, where some steps will drop you back down to the riverbank path. Keep heading Brydekirk south to the edge of town, cross the Annan for the final time on the Sustrans Bridge and head for Newbie. From there, a track leads to Barnkirk Point and your finish at Newbiebarns. (OS Map 322 GR179,645) to sea

Motte and Cummertrees Bailey ANNAN Powfoot

Newbie

The Annandale way is like rain drops trickling through a tree of rivers. • Annan Academy Sea A walking thought-line For this section you can either get a lift to the The quiet site of St Kentigern’s miracle, start at Newbiebarns (OS Map 322 GR179, 645), or walled in pink stone. Graves carved with walk out from Annan. skulls and crossed-bones, winged souls, palm fronds, Bells and Irvings. Over the years what has been whispered over In Annan head along the main street towards the wall from these sleepers to the river and then carried the bridge, where some steps will drop you down to the sea? The trees climbing Woodcock Air opposite sing to the riverbank path. Head south to the edge sweet with morning birds. er of town, crossing the Annan on the Sustrans at W The Annan here wide, slower than my walking pace, glossing n Bridge and head for Newbie. From there, a track ei M leads to Barnkirk Point and the official start at over seal-backed rocks, frothing against pink gravel bays Newbiebarns, retrace your steps to Annan. where paw-prints suggest otters.

From Newbiebarns head out to Barnkirk point and An inlet for Mein Water, its banks defended with rubble, one fence already snatched away. A bird. A long bill. A turquoise follow the path north through to Newbie and wing flashing away in sunlight. Recognition. Joy lightening then alongside the river towards Annan. Just after my step. the railway bridge cross the river on the Sustrans bridge and follow the riverside path into Annan, Brydekirk Bridge and the straight street guarded by a church on the hill. A model village for weavers. Then a woody path, In Annan follow Bruce Street down to the car cross-hatched with bluebells. A dog upending its paws to park on the Eastern bank of the river, where you rub its back in the dewy grass. Mount Annan Estate peering can pick up the riverside path heading north. down from the opposite bank, across an island. At the Cuthbertson memorial bridge cross to the western bank and follow the woodland path on The approach of suburbia and the river puts on its concrete to Brydekirk. girdle. A sudden smell of perfume in the park and people saying, ‘where are ye?’ into mobile phones. Men on benches. Cross the river again to the eastern bank where Out onto merse, the river calls in its carved veins; sludgy the footpath takes you past Meinfoot farm and brown creeks eeking through the grass. Low tide reveals a on to Hoddom Bridge on the B723 (OS Map 322 mud-coloured bicycle wedged in one. Beyond, an audacious GR164,727). to source line of yellow gorse, the pale blue outline of Cumbrian heights.

Solway salt air, wide water, pinky-brown and braided with the devil’s currents. Lumpish Criffel a silhouette, leading the eye west, the waters opening towards Galloway and the Irish Sea.

Rubbing shoulders with grey-pink pebbles, bricks lie abandoned on the beach, edges rounded by the tumbling sea, but still named ‘Whitehaven’ and ‘Sanquhar’. A flock of shellduck lift and circle into a furrowed, frowning sky. A sky that dwarfs and flattens the Earth here at Barnkirk Point. INDUSTRY • GHOSTS & STORIES • FAMOUS FAMILIES • ENERGY • TRAVEL & TOURISM • LITERATURE • GEOLOGY • FLIGHT ES • AC L P Hoddom Mill – One of the St Kentigern’s graveyard and site of a miracle when he returned to G many once water-powered Scotland from exile in Wales in 573. The high ground behind the mills along the Annan. graveyard is thought to have been a monastery.

Confluence of river Annan S & H I D N and Water of Milk. O U T ‘Repentance Tower’ built c1650. Steeped

O K in tales of treachery and Border warfare, it Hoddom Castle Mesolithic remains found around commands spectacular views south over the built 1552-65 by Brocklerigg. People at that time Solway and north through Annandale. John Maxwell, 4th followed rivers.

T E R • L Lord Herries. A The graveyard at The native woodlands around Repentance Tower Hoddom Castle were planted T E R W

A in C19. This area would have has many ornate Look out for Kingfishers been Marshland. gravestones dating around here. from the C17 Brydekirk

Model village Chapelcross nuclear built for power plant built 1957 weavers 1800. and closed 1994. The

A N D & T R E S • W four cooling towers were demolished in 2007. O D L

W In 1200 the Bruce (Brus) Castle was washed away perhaps because of a curse by St Malachy who gained mercy for a robber but “The deil cam fiddlin thro’ the town later saw him hung. As a result the Brus family And danc’d awa wi’ th’ exciseman….’ built a new castle at Lochmaben. Robert Burns worked in Annan as an excise officer.

Motto of Annan: ‘Ut flumen sic oppidum’ – Annan ‘As the river, so the town’. Cummertrees Annan made a Burgh of Barony by the Bruces in the C13. Annan Bridge on site of ancient fording point, built in 1826 by Robert Stevenson better known for lighthouses. During its heyday as a port 1780 – 1848, Powfoot emigrants sailed from here to North America. 1000-ton Dornock Cochrans boilers from 1898. tea clippers The inner Solway is internationally Newbie built here. recognised as a site for wetland birds. Ringed plover break their journeys The Solway Firth Stone from Corsehill Quarry was used for here in May on route to Iceland, has the third largest the three grand staircases in the Capitol Greenland and Arctic Canada. tidal range in the building in the New York State of Albany. UK, rising to 1 metre In the severe winter of 1880, huge blocks and travelling at 6-7 “This wild place of the of ice destroyed the Solway Viaduct. knots. A barrage to world” Robert Burns Site of Annan capture this energy lighthouse, built of Large masts seen across the Solway were is being explored. timber in early 1800’s part of the ‘early warning system’ against and destroyed by fire nuclear missile attack. Now the cold war has in 1960’s ended they are used to communicate with the nuclear submarine fleet. WOODLAND & TREES • WATER WATER • LOOKOUTS & HIDING P LA C E S

• INDUS TR Y •GHOS T S & T ORIES •F AMOUS F AMILES •NR G Y •TRA VEL &T OURISM •LTEA TURE •GOL OG Y •FLIGHT Hoddom – Barnkirk Point - Hoddom – Barnkirk Annan Tune up the senses by denying your your eyes.Hopefullyyouwillhave sense ofsight.Spendfiveminutes eyes closed‘listening’tosensesof increased theothersensesupto sound, touch,smell.Thenopen somewhere onyourwalkwith the ‘volume’ofsight. the leaves are rustling on the tree and falling, the rain tree is leaves andfalling, the onthe arethe rustling the water has ripples because the airispushingitand, becausethe hasripples water the the buttercups are grass. like the little lights inthe The wind is swirling in and out the branches, The windisswirling inandoutthe the grass wind, isswayingthe becauseofthe pouring and the windisblowing, and the pouring Spume andspray,spumespray On thefulltidewhitehorsesride Rises highontheSolwayshore. Rearing aloftwithmightyroar Annandale Observer, Annan Academy Oct 28th1904 B. T.Hawkins, ub Beef T vil’s De Devil’s Bath Tub the to the m da Cracknell with Lin ro nership part F in Tall grand trees itten Wr Tall grand trees loomed over us, he A others were down-hearted, n t nn lifeless stumps. o a We trudged towards the rickety bridge k n that had holes like little eyes l d spying on us from the river below. a a It creaked as w l e we crept, afraid

a we might fall deep, deep, deep. W

The whistling wind wove through the trees

a like the spirit of the baker chained

y in Spedlin’s Tower o

for baking bad bread, and e left roaming there.

At Corehead, under the Devil’s Beef Tub W glaciers cut into the hills thousands of years ago so they Birds whistled to each other now roll like camel humps and many valleys thread into one. a soft lullaby. We smelt wet moss and felt attached to the shimmery small river The river was trickling, as it flowed gently past – glistening rocks and spongy grass. then rushing, crashing, whooshing, We were nearing the end of our walk roaring like a tiger. but for the river it was just beginning. The sweet smell of bright white hawthorn On the way to Beattock a rainbow hovered over the hill. tickled sneezes from us and We marched a Roman road like centurions fresh, lush air hung past an army of pylons above the tree canopy. thinking a word rhythm in time with our steps. We said to ourselves, We burrowed under the M74 and met the Evan Water ‘We’ll never make bad bread’. wanting to be free from the rock which squeezed and corseted it. We felt sad to see the river closed off by the motorway, P7 Lochmaben Primary but some of us never knew it was there. S1 Moffat Academy a rainbow hovered ub The gorse was like a blanket of mustard At Welldale, by the old piers, ef T on a bed of nails. garlic smiled it was just us, the wind, Be It smelt of coconut-butter, il’s the water and the curlews ev taking us back to exotic holidays. where once had been shouting workers, We saw many things. Cows were one, D On the horizon the hills climbed passengers hauling luggage for the ‘Victoria’, he sheep were two, and birds were three. t so that the sun could nest between them. shrimp boats chugging Joe Graham’s monument rose, m The Annan ran softly and smooth and sandstone blocks banged aboard o a sharp needle from its hill r its golden cool waters rustling like leaves. to sail abroad. F like a candle on a birthday cake. We came to the glittering place Over the small stone bridge From there we could see the huge belching monster where it met the Water of Milk. lines of Cochran’s men once cycled, that is the cheese factory and Families of water joined and we took a walk on the Annandale Way. the Solway Firth shining like a crescent moon. and went on their way as one. The Annan below was like a At Barnkirk Point, the tide was coming in, A huge heron flapped its wings. wavy ribbon weaving continuously. pushing the river back upstream We could trace the river like a palm reader following We took a walk on the Annandale Way instead of flowing to meet other waters the lifelines on an open, eager hand, and the towers of the old pink for the party of the Solway. telling us stories. Hoddom Castle Warring waves drew Mud, like marshmallows, squelched under our toes peered from above the forest a spiral pattern on the surface, tried to steal our shoes and set as cement. and lured us in. rough rippling as if fingers Trees were around us like a cave, had been dragged through sand. Children were yelping, whooping, breaking leaves dripping with ‘Let me out!’ the river called to the sea, the silence with their joy. bright blue raindrops, and we named this Laughter tumbled down the hill a rainforest canopy, the smell of nature. deep and dangerous meeting place and the trees talked to one another in the wind. Wild garlic smiled at us. the ‘Devil’s Bath Tub’. The gazing eyes of a deserted house Bluebells, giant hogweed and inhabited by crows and bats When the tide turned, wild rhubarb grew. made us shiver as we passed. allowing the Annan to flood the Solway mud, Birds scattered through the leaves, Fighter–jet sounds the river lost itself one calling like a creaky door. rumbled overhead like a giant’s belly. un-named, unnoticed, forgotten. The river roared. On the crest of a hill But we knew its waters would, in time, After Hoddom Bridge sat the misty outline of wind turbines be sucked skywards buttercups spread over lush green grass near the steep volcano of Burnswark, to return as clouds to lead us to the deserted graveyard green and smooth on top. to the hills of the Devil’s Beef Tub

of Saint Kentigern. You again! We found a bird’s leg full of decay, fifty miles inland. the smell of young trees budding. We took a walk in Annandale ‘You again!’ the hills will say, Our legs, tied down with kilogram weights, and at the end we asked, as they tear at the clouds, emptying them grew tired from walking. ‘Can we walk the whole way?’ so the waters begin their descent Some of us thought it a lonely place P6/7 Hoddom Primary and once again we call them ‘Annan’. because nobody else was there. S1 Lockerbie Academy S1 Annan Academy belching monster Embark on a 55 mile journey through Annandale with an opportunity to delve into some of the cultural and industrial history of this ancient border region whilst immersing yourself in the tranquillity and beauty of a little explored corner of Scotland.

Published by CREATE CfE, Schools Services, Dumfries & Galloway Council © Sulwath Connections, Dumfries and Galloway Council

ISBN Title Information 978-0-9563666-0-3 Annandale Way