SOUTH GEORG IA A ND FA LKLA ND I SLA NDS

C HEESEMANS’ E C OLOGY S AFARIS E XPEDITION L OG 2015 EXPE DITION LOG CHEESEMANS’ ECOLOGY SAFARIS Georgia and 31 October to 16 November 2015

Designed by Teresa Floberg Edited by Gina Barton and Teresa Floberg Written by Gina Barton, Pauline Carr, Joe Kaplan, Artie Morris, Rosie Seton, Dave Shoch, Janet Wiener and Jon Wiener Images by Passengers and Sta as credited i Cover Photo By Glenn Bartley

Back Cover Photo Southern Elephant Seals By Tashi Tenzing

Title Page Photo Male Southern Elephant Seal By Ty Smedes

This Page Photo Landscape with Shags By Pat Lillich

Next Page Photo King Penguins By Muriel McClellan

COPYRIGHT NOTICE Copyright ©2015 Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris Photographers hold the copyright to their work. TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction 2 Salisbury Plain and 10 November 22-23

Flight to Falklands and Embarkation 31 October 3 At Sea en Route to the Falklands 11 November 24-25

At Sea to South Georgia 1 November 4 At Sea en Route to the Falklands 12 November 26

At Sea to South Georgia 2 November 5 At Sea and Stanley Disembarkation 13 November 27

South Georgia Island 6-7 At Sea O shore of Falklands 14 November 28

Undine Harbour 3 November 8-9 At Sea and Ushuaia Disembarkation 15-16 November 29

King Haakon Bay and Elsehul 4 November 10-11 Expedition Sta 31

Grytviken 5 November 12-13 Species List by Date 32-33

Cooper Bay and Drygalski Fjord 6 November 14-15 The Many Faces of Nature 34-35

Gold Harbour and 7 November 16-17 Photo Montage 36-37

Fortuna Bay and Stromness 8 November 18-19 Friends of South Georgia Island 38

St. Andrews Bay 9 November 20-21

1 I NTRODUCTION

By Ted Cheeseman, Expedition Leader very remoteness and inaccessibility tions are allowing South Georgia Pipit scale of beauty, and I can think of no heightening the treasure we found on populations to explode and vegetation better group to have shared the expe- A FANTASTIC VOYAGE its coasts. to recover. At sea, we believe whale pop- rience with. I want to extend a special Welcome friends! Wander through the ulations are rebounding, even while cli- thanks and dedication of this voyage log Now is a special time for South Geor- pages ahead and let yourself remember mate and ocean chemistry is changing. to all of our fantastic expedition sta gia, on land and at sea rebounding to a the glory and intensity of our South who made such an ambitious itinerary wildness not enjoyed for centuries; we ank you for joining us; these images Georgia voyage. ere is no place like possible. saw how the rat and reindeer eradica- speak volumes but only hint at the full South Georgia on our blue planet, its

Zodiac Cruising Lynne Bergbreiter

2 Day 1 Flight to Falklands and Embarkation 31 October 2015

By Gina Barton check-in on board the Ortelius, briey settle into our cabins (our new home!) FLIGHT TO STANLEY in time to have a safety brieng and We awoke early to enjoy our breakfast emergency test run. Aer our briengs before checking into our ight to Mount we were introduced to our Captain and Pleasant, Falkland Islands. All but those Expedition Sta and enjoyed a toast already in Punta Arenas or the Falk- from our Captain. We bid farewell to lands shared the ight together, so there the protected harbor at Stanley as we was talking and excitement despite the entered the choppy seas and began the early hour. During our ight we expe- rocky voyage to South Georgia. Our rienced beautiful views of the glaciers, rst dinner on board was quiet as folks valleys, and lakes of the Andes Moun- unaccustomed to the motion of the ship tains plus an interesting menu of snack retreated to their cabins. But for those choices for our meal service. During that remained, we could feel the excite- our quick stop in Punta Arenas to go ment of our journey to South Georgia through customs, we got some and what it would bring. looks at Upland Geese running at the runway edge. Despite the winds whip- The Ortelius Approaching a Rainbow Clemens Vanderwerf ping across the plane making it wobble side to side, the pilot made an impres- sively smooth landing in the Falklands, which welcomed us with windy, cloudy, and drizzly weather. e tiny Mount Pleasant Airport was a little chaotic with lines to get through customs weav- ing alongside the one luggage carousel.

BOARDING THE ORTELIUS During our hour-long bus drive to Stan- ley to board the Ortelius, we got brief glimpses of wildlife along the rolling hills dotted with rocks. Upon arrival we learned that a storm was headed in so the Captain wanted to depart earli- er than planned, so we had to quickly Janet Cole Ready to Set Sail Teresa Blase Chief O cer Sven Haindl on the Bridge Teresa Blase

3 1 November 2015 At Sea to South Georgia Island Day 2

By Dave Shoch by Cape Petrels, Southern Fulmars, a lecture on landscape photography, DAY 2 AT NOON Northern and Southern giant-petrels, Hugh presented an orientation on the Location SAILING EAST and Black-browed and Gray-headed operation of the Zodiacs and landing Latitude 52˚11’ 9 S e Ortelius shuddered and heaved albatrosses. ose fortunate few out on protocols … In the aernoon we began Longitude 53˚12’ 4 W through the night and into the morning, deck in the morning were also treated the slow, steady, sometimes tedious, generously redistributing loose items in to the appearance of a single process of inspecting and cleaning and Total Sailed 180 miles our cabins. On the bridge, the gauges re- Petrel, a bird seldom seen away from re-cleaning our onshore gear in prepa- Wind 45 knots SW corded Force 10, at least 50-knot winds, the Antarctic continent and unexpected ration for our landings on South Geor- Air Temperature 4°C and swells averaging a healthy 6 meters. in these waters, perhaps brought north- gia. e South Georgia government re- Weather Overcast A few stalwarts stepped out in the early ward by the storm. Following the deck quires intensive biosecurity screening morning, amid bouts of snow and hail, closure, many gathered aer breakfast to prevent the introduction of non-na- before the captain made the call to close on the bridge, where we continued to tive organisms that, especially given the ON DECK the outside decks. e force of the sea observe the spectacle rapidly changing climatic conditions in Aer the weather lessened some in the was on full display, with occasional 25- through the spray-soaked windows. the region, have the potential to severely aernoon, the outside decks were re- to 30-foot swells belying the 300-foot disrupt the unique natural communities opened and many of us re-emerged to length of the Ortelius. e intensity of LECTURES AND BIOSECURITY on the island. We would do our part to enjoy the seabird show. It is interest- the weather seemed to kindle the ight protect the integrity of the crown jewel Lectures carried us through much of the ing to imagine being plopped down to of the southern ocean birds to exhila- of the Antarctic. day: Dave reviewed the identication of some unknown stretch of ocean, with rating extremes. We were accompanied southern ocean birds at sea, Moe gave no bearings or sense of latitude or lon- gitude, and having to locate your gen- eral position by inference from the bird community around you. e fast-ying Atlantic Petrels arcing over the ocean swells and visible from the deck of the Ortelius in the aernoon indicated that we are somewhere in the south Atlan- tic and north of the Antarctic Conver- gence, as they are birds typical of the warmer waters of the Falklands current. We ended the day with an impressive count of great albatrosses, the masters of the southern ocean winds: 5-10 Wan- dering Albatross and 10-15 Southern Royal Albatross.

Gray-headed Albatross Ted Cheeseman Southern Fulmar Ty Smedes

4 Day 3 At Sea to South Georgia Island 2 November 2015

DAY 3 AT NOON and Southern Ocean wildlife,” Pauline’s PREPARATION FOR SOUTH Biosecurity Requirements. e sound of Location Scotia Sea discussion of “Environmental Issues GEORGIA vacuums and a full compliment of twee- Latitude 52˚58’ 6 S Facing South Georgia”, and nally a vi- Between bird spotting and informative zers, headlamps, and watch-full eyes is sually-pleasing aer dinner lecture by our assurance that our visit to South Longitude 46˚31’ 8 W lectures we also commenced the nit- shipmate Clemens Vanderwerf “South ty-gritty task of denuding our clothing Georgia would leave only footprints and Total Sailed 252 miles Georgia: A perspective from a Wildlife and equipment of foreign biomass un- take only a terabyte or two of memory. Wind 32 knots NW Photographer”. der the well-regulated South Georgia Air Temperature 4°C Weather Overcast

By Joe Kaplan

BIRDS AT SEA With the sea-state continuing to im- prove so does our enthusiasm as we steam towards South Georgia in open ocean. is morning delivers our rst iceberg bits unexpectedly early into fo- cus along with a full complement of sea- birds and lectures. By mid-morning the Bridge opens the bow quickly followed with rst views of King Penguin, Brown Skua, Slender-billed Prion, Kerguelen Petrel, Light-mantled Albatross, and diving-petrel the “ying football.” Our lecture series complemented this rich assortment of seabirds; Ron pre- sented his popular “Animal Scapes” and “Shooting Video and SLR Cameras”, Pauline and Tim’s “ ‘Antarctic Outpost’”, followed by Moe’s “Creative Photography Techniques for Land- scapes,” Joe’s primer on “South Georgia Black-browed Albatross, Cape Petrel, Southern Giant-Petrel Ted Cheeseman

5 SOUTH GEORGIA ISLAND

King Penguin Colony, St. Andrews Bay, South Georgia Ron Niebrugge

6 SOUTH GEORGIA ISLAND

Point Landing Date 1 Undine Harbour 3 Nov 2 Elsehul 4 Nov 3 4 Nov 4 Grytviken 5 Nov 2 13 5 Cooper Bay 6 Nov 12 6 Drygalski Fjord 6 Nov 1 9 7 7 Nov 10 8 Godthul 7 Nov 3 9 Fortuna Bay 8 Nov 4 8 10 Stromness 8 Nov 11 St. Andrews Bay 9 Nov 12 Salisbury Plain 10 Nov 11 13 Prion Island 10 Nov

7

5 6

Antarctic Fur Seals Douglas Bullock

7 3 November 2015 Undine Harbour Day 4

By Joe Kaplan active with the likes of Gentoo Pen- gia) Pintails and much to our surprise sons of weather – and, no doubt, an e early morning nds us within the guins, molting King Penguins, feisty diminutive and singing South Georgia indelible memory for all aer such a territorial boundaries of South Geor- Antarctic Fur Seals, harem-gathering Pipits. long journey to this special and isolated Southern Elephant Seals, inquisitive station. gia, approximately 40 miles east of Adjectives and accolades aside, this sheathbills, marauding gi- Shag Rocks – a set of rocky fangs that short three-hour By Janet Wiener ant-petrels, rise 250 feet out of the ocean along the landing Scotia Ridge. e day is beautiful as we HIKE AT UNDINE greet our rst (of many) Snow Petrels Land ho! It was great to nally set our along with Blue Petrel, Fairy Prion, feet on solid ground. Aer all Zodi- and South Georgia Shag (com- acs were ashore Tashi led the hike pliments of Shag Rocks). An up through the tussock grass all-too-brief Sperm Whale for a view. e trek through also cruised by the ship a stream, mud, and the providing our rst ver- grass itself proved to be iable cetacean of the a challenging climb. We voyage. lost a few hikers aer one took a fall into the LAND HO! water and mud at the With Biosecurity start of the hike. From measures complet- up above, the views of ed we are ready for the , beach, South Georgia. Shouts a Gentoo Penguin col- of “Land Ho!” rever- ony, and across the is- berate across the bow at land were rewarding. We 2 p.m. as we continue to saw our rst South Georgia sail towards our destination Pipit here, as well as a Yel- of Undine Harbour through low-billed (South Georgia) Pin- the scenic and rugged Willis and tail. Upon descending, we trekked Bird Islands. We nally reach our V back along and through a stream, iew thr s destination and begin Zodiac operation oug arcu crossing it several times to avoid the fur h a H il M at 4 p.m.; our rst taste (and smell) of awse Ph seals. A few Gentoo Penguins trekked hole South Georgia. watchful Brown serves up the stream towards us and here an- As expected, hoped, and realized, the Skuas, hovering Antarctic Terns, up nearly a full compliment of South other hiker took a bath in the cool water rocky beaches of Undine Harbour are winging Yellow-billed (South Geor- Georgia wildlife along with four sea- when she slipped on the rocks.

8 Day 4 Undine Harbour 3 November 2015

DAY 4 AT NOON Location Scotia Sea Latitude 53˚55’ 6 S Longitude 39˚09’ 5 W Total Sailed 273 miles Wind 35 knots NW Air Temperature 4°C Weather Overcast

Launching the Zodiac Phil Marcus Poses Teresa Blase

Bellowing Southern Elephant Seal Teresa Blase Gentoo Penguin Alan Lillich

9 4 November 2015 King Haakon Bay and Elsehul Day 5

By Pauline Carr We were anchored o Peggotty Blu. DAY 5 AT NOON is is the historic site where Shackle- Location Stewart Strait SHACKLETON CROSSING ton’s boat, the James Caird, was hauled Latitude 53˚59’ 0 S THWARTED up the beach and turned upside down Longitude 38˚04’ 0 W Our alarm went o at 4 a.m. so that the for three men to live underneath until climbers who were planning to do the Captain Worsley could return with the Total Sailed 134 miles Shackleton Route could get an early whale catcher Samson to rescue them. Wind 25 knots WSW breakfast before disembarking. Recep- Some of the passengers were able to Air Temperature 2°C tion was full of skis, big packs, and men view the hallowed blu and beach from Weather Overcast wearing climbing harnesses - an excit- the ships decks and marvel at the dra- ing scene. e weather had been clear matic scenery all around. By the time Giant-Petrel in Front of a Tabular Iceberg Phil Marcus early on but snow squalls began to come everyone was up and about the ships REPOSITIONING storming down the long ord and guide anchor began to drag, so the time was Ortelius repositioned to Elsehul where by reefs. Tashi Tenzing’s face showed concern. clearly right to depart. we had better shelter for the ship. On Pauline read aloud from Captain Wors- Aer breakfast the decision was made - the way we detoured slightly to view a ley’s account of approaching this dra- better to have another try later than be spectacular tabular iceberg at least one matic coast in the tiny James Caird in caught in strong winds on the glaciers. mile long, probably grounded on near- hurricane force winds and high seas. A chilling tale of almost unimaginable hard- ship. is was followed by Tim and Pauline’s third entertaining lecture in their series about their 14 years exploring South Georgia by boat, by ski and by “boot.”

ELSEHUL Elsehul beckoned - calm waters in a wildlife amphithe- atre. Light-mantled Albatrosses Alan Jones Southern Elephant Seals Les Sharp

10 Day 5 King Haakon Bay and Elsehul 4 November 2015

Gray-headed Albatross showed up kings, gentoo, Black-browed Albatross, By Janet Wiener several giant-petrels on the beach with white across the cove - a long walk for giant-petrels and - for some the high bloody heads as they the hardy but amply rewarded. A short- trilling territorial song of South Ge- HIKE TO GRAY HEADED feasted on the er walk took us to Light-mantled Alba- origa Pipits was the “icing on the cake”. ALBATROSS carcass of an tross sites and incredible views out to sea Joe photographed three wee chicks on Unable to land on the desired beach, animal. on both sides of the anchorage. We saw the nest. Pauline saw tiny tracks in the we trekked a steep ascent and weaved

y snow and stopped in alarm to examine through tussock to see Gray-headed e l t r them in case they were from rats that Albatross nesting. We had clear views a B n had escaped the eradication program of these birds both in their nests and n le three years ago. But the long lines that ying overhead. Wildlife on this hike G might have been rats tails were made was plentiful with Gentoo Penguins, by the South Georgia Pipits’ spurs (long fur seals, birds, and a fantastic view

hind claws) and it seemed entirely right of the beaches below. Giant-petrel that the once common rat tracks had nests were particularly plentiful been supplanted by South Georgia Pipit mid-hike and we had to be cau- tracks. Tim and Pauline had never seen tious about maintaining distance a pipit in Elsehul during 23 years of vis- so we would not disturb them. its - now, suddenly, there were dozens. And at one overlook we watched l Gentoo Penguin on Nest Teresa Blase Snow Petre

Elsehul Teresa Blase

11 5 November 2015 Grytviken Day 6

By Dave Shoch ditions were calmer and inviting, with those of us with skis or snowshoes. e DAY 6 AT NOON brilliant blue skies and sculptured ice church steeple was the rst sign of civ- Location HIKE FROM MAIVIKEN TO in the bay just o the beach. e coast- ilization to appear, a welcoming sight, Latitude 54˚14’ 2 S GRYTVIKEN al tussock above the cobble gave way to but aer rounding the bend into Gry- Longitude 36˚30’ 0 W With our plans for a morning landing short dry grassland, and easier stepping, tviken, abruptly juxtaposed against the at Hercules Bay thwarted by danger- as we ascended toward the pass between rusting remains of the station, Total Sailed 81 miles ous swells, we redirected the Ortelius to Maiviken and Grytviken. e snow was presenting a microcosm of humanity’s Wind 10 knots N Maiviken, where our intrepid contin- brilliant o the slopes of Mt Hodges, range of achievements. Air Temperature 7°C gent of hikers would begin their over- to the point of blinding, but allowed a Weather Partly Cloudy land crossing to Grytviken. Here con- more eortless descent from the pass for

Hike from Maiviken to Grytviken Glenn Bartley

Overlooking Grytviken Phil Marcus Macro Janet Cole

12 Day 6 Grytviken 5 November 2015

GRYTVIKEN Here in Grytviken the hikers met up with the rest of the group, which had sailed around from Maiviken into . We all gathered at the cemetery to pay tribute to Sir . Pauline led our toast, and we raised our plastic cups of scotch to e Boss - Zodiac Phil Marcus “For scienti c discovery give me Scott; for speed and eciency of travel give me exploring the whaling museum, shop- Amundsen; but when the chips are down ping in the museum gi shop, and mail- and all hope is lost, get down on your Maiviken Mark Maletsky ing post cards (which we were destined knees and pray for Shackleton.” to beat home as the last mail shipment [Sir Raymond Priestly] had gone out just a few days before). In In Grytviken proper we took full advan- the evening we brought most of the pop- tage of our brief access to civilization, ulation of Grytviken and aboard the Ortelius for a bar- beque on deck, with gluehwein on tap to warm us against the descending cold. Aerward, Sarah Lurcock present- ed the ongoing work of the South Georgia Heritage Trust, inspiring our upcoming auction.

Posing Liz Green Grytviken Church Marian Herz Derelict Whaling Ship, the Petrel Marian Herz

13 6 November 2015 Cooper Bay and Drygalski Fjord Day 7

By Joe Kaplan we found a narrow window of oppor- tunity to thread ourselves through the COOPER BAY AND DRYGALSKI rocky tidal islets of Cooper Bay to view FJORD Chinstrap Penguins along the beach Four-season weather (mostly winter) and then again in the aernoon spotting appeared again this morning in Cooper a group of ten hauled out on an iceberg. Bay – our “last chance” destination for With Macaroni and Chinstrap mem- a quality Macaroni Penguin experience ories safely secure we sail towards the and our “only chance” to see Chinstrap geologically rich Drygalski Fjord and Penguin from shore (an avian cholera enjoy a bridge-side lecture by Hugh on Macaroni Penguin Debra Herst Snowy Sheathbill Ty Smedes outbreak among the Chinstraps in past the complexity and signicance of the years keeps this colony closed for land- Fjords basalt lava ows, and the meta- ings). Fortunately, our tenacity paid o morphic material remaining from the – Macs were enjoyed by Zodiac and on original Gondwana continental plate foot against a backdrop of fresh snow as margin. e day nds its conclusion these krill-dependent penguins arrived with a chilly Zodiac cruise up Larsen fresh from months at sea to their nesting Harbor in the company of Snow Petrels, colonies hidden in the rock and tussock Antarctic Terns, and the Weddell Seal – of the south end of South Georgia. As the southerly most ranging mammal. our luck would continue this morning Weddell Seal Heather Cunningham Gentoo Penguins Pat Lillich

Chinstrap Penguin Poses Cindy Kassab Oakum Boys at Gold Harbour Les Sharp

14 Day 7 Cooper Bay and Drygalski Fjord 6 November 2015

By Janet Wiener navigated further into this same bay nicant area around her. So we diverted seals were resting and returned to spend with the Curlew. On our return a fur inland up over a snowy hillside covered about 15 more minutes with the Maca- HIKE AT COOPER BAY seal gave Tim a good chase and clearly with tussock grass rising to the right roni Penguins. e decision to do a trek or spend time indicated her intention to guard a sig- of us on another hillside where the fur at the Macaroni Penguin colony was a dicult one to make. is meant we’d also miss an opportunity to see the Chinstrap Penguins on a Zodiac cruise. But, for those who opted to follow Tim and his skis, whether walking in snowshoes, or following behind on the packed snow while sometimes stepping into deep snow, there was a tremen- dous reward ahead. We walked up over Macaroni Penguin Alan Jones snowy tussock hills, a bit inland from the beach, and enjoyed beautiful land- scape. Passing fur seals, elephant seals, gentoos, giant-petrels, and then seeing our rst King Penguins, this hike en- chanted and rewarded all who opted in. It was here that the hikers saw their rst Oakum Boys as the snow and wind pelted us. A sailboat was anchored in the bay and Tim indicated they had Dahlia Battles the Elements at Gold Harbour Les Sharp Weddell Seals Cindy Kassab

DAY 7 AT NOON Location Cooper Bay Latitude 54˚47’ 3 S Longitude 35˚47’ 8 W Total Sailed 72 miles Wind 25 knots SW Air Temperature 5°C Weather Mostly Cloudy

King Penguins Entering the Surf Elaine Heron

15 7 November 2015 Gold Harbour and Godthul Day 8

By Gina Barton

GOLD HARBOUR Our 4:30 a.m. landing was cancelled because of gusting winds over 60 knots, but thankfully the winds died down enough to allow us some time at beloved Gold Harbour. Approaching the dark beach of Gold Harbour you could start to see that the beach was not dark from the sand, but from the many bodies of Macro Janet Cole Southern Elephant Seals inhabiting it. We landed overwhelmed with many mountains and glacier backdrop to the elephant seals on the beach – weaners, colony. We also had to watch our back pups, young males practice ghting, as male elephant seals bellowed to pro- weaners trying to cuddle with our gear tect their harems and on occasion chas- (and sometimes people!). Kings wan- ing each other. Sadly, the gusts eventu- King Penguins Janet Cole dered around the beach. We nally had ally became too strong and the landing our rst good looks at Oakum Boys who was cut short. through the tussock grass over to a break in the colony in this area and with were interactive with each other and us By Janet Wiener ridge that overlooked the colony. Wind increasingly strong winds, this looked while listening at the cacophony of their speed increased almost immediate- like it might be the safest and quickest whistles. We still took it all in despite HIKE AT GOLD HARBOUR ly aer we reached the ridge and visi- route back. We successfully navigated the strong gusts and low visibility, nev- Our rst colony of King Penguin bility of the colony below worsened. through this area, to the beach and back er quite getting a view of the stunning chicks was delightful. We trekked back We’d just been ordered to get down o to the Zodiacs. our feet to wait for a break in the wind when a call on the radio reached out to DAY 8 AT NOON sta. Wind speed was gusting to over Location Gold Harbour 60 knots and we needed to get back to Latitude 54˚37’ 8 S the boat. We estimated 40 minutes or Longitude 35˚55’ 1 W more to backtrack the route we’d taken to this spot. But, there was potentially Total Sailed 79 miles a shorter route through the tussock and Wind 25 knots WSW across a river to the beach, provided it Air Temperature 2°C was crossable. ere appeared to be a Weather Overcast

Macro Janet Cole Joining the Group Janet Garrison

16 Day 8 Gold Harbour and Godthul 7 November 2015

By Gina Barton

GODTHUL Aer everyone was safe on board, we headed to our next scheduled aernoon stop, St. Andrews Bay. Unfortunately, the weather (70-knot winds) was no better at St. Andrews, so we scrapped the landing there and headed to God- Curious Oakum Boy Brian Snell thul known for being a sheltered spot from South Georgia’s weather – the word is Norwegian for “good cove.” e harbor was very quiet, no winds, and sunny, demonstrating the varied weath- er conditions of South Georgia. Our landing was small with some resident Summit Tashi Tenzing elephant seals, gentoos, and kings with some whaling remnants along the shore By Janet Wiener we passed two gentoo nesting areas and from a time long past. found an empty gentoo egg, which had HIKE AT GODTHUL likely been a skua’s dinner. Oakum Boys Thierry Deschryver We ascended with Tim and Tashi up to summit. As we arrived on the sum- mit, Tashi exclaimed “this is just like the summit on Everest, there’s room for about 30 people up here.” He warned us to move away and not walk on the snow cornice at the top of the . We all took in the wonderful views of the other side of the mountain, celebrated with pictures, and waved to the boat below. Later on the ship, someone who had been on the boat when we called and said we had reached the summit indicated that they could see us way up above dotting the summit. Descending Godthul Douglas Bullock Cracked Egg Janet Cole

17 8 November 2015 Fortuna Bay and Stromness Day 9

By Pauline Carr

FORTUNA BAY

Ted’s dulcet tones awoke us to nd Ortelius in another spectacular anchor- age. High peaks encircled the bay, two glaciers and steep grassy buttresses embraced a black sand beach. Fortuna Bay is steeped in Shackleton history, so we were able to see the route that Shackleton, Worsley and Crean took to descend from the glaciers onto safe King Penguins Tashi Tenzing terrain, trek around the bay and head o back up into the mountains on the Oakum Boys (King Penguin chicks) where their tracks converged with count of part of the journey, and then last leg of their epic self rescue. were easily accessible at the edge of the Shackleton’s. Up at the top, surround- in Stromness she recounted more of Aer breakfast we landed between ter- colony and several were very inquisitive ed by steep crags, the wind increased this epic story, as well as some whaling ritorial fur seal bulls, and most folk inspecting us and our gear. A pair of dramatically and it was dicult to keep details and insights into the life of the headed up the bay to a beautiful king Light-mantled Albatross circled above their footing. whalers. She also told us, a surprise to penguin colony of about 12,000 pairs. us but we were not able to nd a nest site many, how the 1982 conict with Ar- this time. However Joe, ever eagle-eyed, STROMNESS gentina had begun in South Georgia, found a South Georgia Pipit nest and Meanwhile in the quiet comfort of Or- in Harbour and details about the a juvenile being fed. It came out of the telius the rest of us steamed out to sea ghting. nest for some lucky photographers - still and made the short voyage to Stromness e wind had really picked up and wil- without a proper tail and its feet looked Bay. Here the Captain took us into Leith ly-waws, small whirlwinds whipping up huge and out of proportion to its tiny Harbour before reaching Stromness the waters of the bay, sealed the deci- body. is was probably the rst South where we were to pick up the climbers sion for us not to go ashore. However Georgia Pipit nest seen in Fortuna for from the beach by the whaling station. the climbers were picked up safely and perhaps 200 years or more. Tracks high in the mountains traced came aboard tired but extremely happy Aer lunch a band of keen and hardy across a great snow slope marking a fun with their hike and satised with their hikers followed Tim, Tashi and Hugh glissade or ski that greatly speeded up eorts. up to the col some 300 metres up a long and simplied their descent into Shack- It was a happy ship, and the volume of moraine ridge. Ted brought up the rear. leton Valley. chatter and laughter over another splen- Out of our sight they then continued Before we le Fortuna, Pauline had did dinner ended another exciting day. past the lake named aer read from Captain Frank Worsleys ac- South Georgia Pipit Juvenile Marian Herz

18 Day 9 Fortuna Bay and Stromness 8 November 2015

wards the old whaling station structures DAY 9 AT NOON far below us, we slid on our bums down Location Fortuna Bay the mountainside. Sta had been alert- Latitude 54˚08’ 6 S ed that the wind was blowing 60 knots Longitude 36˚48’ 3 W at the ship and so Hugh said that prob- ably meant 80 knots or more up where Total Sailed 96 miles we had come from. We headed prompt- Wind 25 knots variable ly towards the beach, across the braided Air Temperature 4°C riverbed, past the fur seals guarding the Weather Overcast Stromness whaling station, and loaded King Penguin Molting Denise Ippolito immediately into Zodiacs to return to the ship. e wind had the ship listing Zodiac drivers and crew who brought rather noticeably as we approached it all aboard safely in the wind and sea King Penguin Denise Ippolito By Janet Wiener during the semi-wet ride back to the swell. HIKE FROM FORTUNA TO ship, grateful as ever for the skill of our STROMNESS Pauline Carr pointed to the pass where Shackleton and his men came into For- tuna Bay on their hike and we anxiously loaded onto the Zodiacs to begin our hike. Beautiful blue icebergs oated in the bay below as we gained altitude, ascending from the beach, over tus- sock grass, scree slopes, and onto snow again. e wind was erce and we bat- tled it on foot while Hugh, Tim, and Ted did so on skis. At times, the strength of the wind brought us all to the ground to avoid being blown over. e wind remained strong throughout this hike and gave us all an appreciation for the weather Shackleton and his men faced as they trekked this same nal stretch into Stromness. Aer descending part way down the steep slope on foot to- King Penguin and Chick Marian Herz King Penguins in the Surf Janet Garrison

19 9 November 2015 St. Andrews Bay Day 10

By Dave Shoch treated to a transient, but brilliant pink/ non-breeding subadults present, would DAY 10 AT NOON peach alpenglow cast o the peaks of Mt potentially approach half a million birds Location St. Andrews Bay ST. ANDREWS BAY Brooker and Nordenskjold Peak, light- at St. Andrews. From Zodiac cruis- Latitude 54˚26’ 3 S Aer our shutout from St. Andrews Bay ing a magical backdrop to St. Andrews es along the beach we took in the full Longitude 36˚10’ 0 W two days before, we planned our sec- Bay. On arrival, we quickly agged out expanse of the colony, and beyond the ond landing attempt for this morning, a route from our landing site to the top icy lake growing at the foot of the Cook Total Sailed 67 miles hopeful but cautious of the potential of the moraine overlooking the main Glacier. e Zodiacs aorded point Wind 17 knots N for deteriorating weather conditions. King Penguin colony, fording the river blank views of King Penguins in the Air Temperature 2°C St. Andrews Bay is directly exposed to bisecting the beach and full of molt- surf, Cape Petrels and Antarctic Terns, Weather Overcast incoming easterly ocean swells, and ing King Penguins. From the moraine, and we discovered along the beach a landings there are oen challenging the immensity and decibel level of the fresh elephant seal carcass lorded over and subject to suspension at short no- colony was on full display. St. Andrews by blood-drenched Southern Giant-Pe- markably, when we re-emerged from tice. With the Ortelius parked a cau- Bay is the largest King Penguin colony trels, which aerward, somehow out of the ship aer lunch, the bay was almost tious distance oshore, we guided the on South Georgia, and second in size character, rested oshore to carefully at calm, inviting us all to return. e Zodiacs to the beach at 4 a.m., mindful only to the colony on Macquarie Island wash themselves clean. aernoon on the beach was leisure- that our time ashore would likely be on the other side of the world. e last ly, and adjective seldom used on these Most of us returned to the Ortelius to curtailed by mounting seas in the af- estimate (Clarke et. al. 2012) was of ~ voyages, with time to roam, explore the warm up on board and recharge with ternoon, and ready to make the most 150,000 pairs and growing, which, to- kelp-fringed rocks north of the landing a hot lunch, though with waning hope of the morning. ose early risers were gether with this year’s Oakum Boys and beach, sit with the Southern Elephant for an extended aernoon landing. Re-

Southern Elephant Seal Lynne Bergbreiter Southern Elephant Seal Weaners Fran Maletsky

20 Day 10 St. Andrews Bay 9 November 2015

Seal weaners gravitated to the collection er the snow got harder and the pitch As Tim regained his footing, Tashi, who By Ted Cheeseman of dry bags … an epic day with a so got steeper. As we got beyond the mid- had been bringing up the rear, caught landing. point of the climb those without snow- up and quickly decided that there was THE HEANEY GLACIER shoes were advised to not continue. Our an easier way up. Fortunately he was From satellite observations we know By Jon Wiener group of roughly 11 hikers dropped to correct, and we followed him up to a that the vast majority of the glaciers of HIKE AT ST. ANDREWS about 8. As we reached around 1,000 ridge at about 1,200 feet. Aer resting South Georgia are receding. e Heaney feet of elevation things got much more for a few minutes we decided to climb Glacier in St. Andrews Bay has retreated Advertised as a 1,500-foot climb, this dicult, with the hard pack snow be- the nal portion of the mountain. As we at a rate of about 100m (330 feet) per hike did not disappoint anyone looking coming pretty much ice, and the climb started climbing the wind picked up and year, or close to a foot a day, for the last for a challenge. It started out innocent- becoming extremely steep. Tim lost clouds blew in, obscuring the peak. We decade, making its recession quite slow ly enough, with a gentle climb for the traction with his skis, falling and slid- took it as an omen and decided it was by comparison to many. About 15 miles rst few hundred feet. Once we gained a ing down about 10-15 feet. Fortunate- time to head back down. south in Iris Bay, the Twitcher Glacier little elevation Tim wasted no time get- ly he was able to regain traction, since has retreated 1.5 miles in the last 5 years, Although we did not achieve our goal ting his skis on so he could take advan- he could have easily fallen a lot further about 4 feet per day, four times as fast as it was an enjoyable hike with plenty of tage of the so snow we were walking and/or slid into rocks. the Heaney Glacier photographed here. through. However, as we climbed high- excitement and views of the colony and beach area. 2006 2015

Heaney Glacier in 2006 Ted Cheeseman Heaney Glacier in 2015 Ted Cheeseman

21 10 November 2015 Salisbury Plain and Prion Island Day 11

as a photographic leader was made in ready been—aer a few days of rough 2006 with the irrepressible Peter Harri- weather at the start—a magical expedi- son (Seabirds: An Identi cation Guide). tion. When we arrived the sky condi- We were one of the very last groups to tions were perfect: cloudy bright. And visit Prion before the boardwalk and then up the hill we went. the accompanying restrictions were put into place. Small group visitation SO HOW DID THAT WORK OUT? is now strictly time-limited and every- ere is a small observation deck below one is restricted to the boardwalk. With the main viewing platform. You usually the boardwalk the hike up is way easier get to stand there doing nothing for 30 and the birds are aorded a greater level minutes as you wait for the group ahead of protection. On some visits folks are of you to pass you on the way down. We lucky to see a single young albatross on were not there a full minute when we or near its nest. spotted the head of a Wandering Alba- I had a premonition that today would tross chick atop the ridgeline. en, the Brown Skua Clemens Vanderwerf provide a magical end to what had al- bird stood up and began apping, test-

By Artie Morris Petrels oating very close to the beach. Many Southern Oceans vets had never THE MORNING AT SALISBURY seen this behavior before. And neither PLAIN had I. en it was back to the Ortelius In the morning, we landed early at the for lunch. main Salisbury Plain King Penguin Rookery. e photographers were bless- THE PLAN ed by sweet light early, and then later, by e aernoon landings at Prion Island perfect cloudy bright conditions. Some were to be made in two shis, with the hiked to the top to enjoy spectacular Deck 5 folks in the rst wave at 1:15 views while others enjoyed a Zodiac p.m. and Decks 3 & 4 folks in the second cruise down the beach. Along the water’s wave at 3:15 p.m. e ascents to view edge large groups of kings were loang the hoped-for Wandering Albatross and leaving or entering the water to feed would be in tightly controlled groups as small groups of Antarctic Terns dived of 12. We hoped to view and possibly for tiny baitsh nearby. Amazingly photograph this endangered species. there were several large groups of Cape My rst trip to the Southern Ocean Wandering Albatross Chick Cheryl Cathcart

22 Day 11 Salisbury Plain and Prion Island 10 November 2015

DAY 11 AT NOON birder radioed Joe that there was an By Jon Wiener Location adult ying in from over the ocean. Joe HIKE AT SALISBURY Latitude 54˚03’ 2 S alerted everyone in the group just be- fore a stunning adult male Wandering Our nal hike on South Georgia was a Longitude 37˚19’ 2 W Albatross ew circles right above us for relatively easy one, climbing just a few Total Sailed 63 miles ve full minutes until it landed at its hundred feet on mostly easy terrain. A Wind 18 knots W nest with chick just below. e bright small amount of snow, some rocks and Air Temperature 10°C orange marking on the back of the head scree, and nally across a tussock lled Weather Partly Cloudy tells us that this adult was a very old ridge. Aer less than one hour we had a male. nice complete view of the King Penguin colony from above. e weather sort of THE GRAND FINALE cooperated, giving us a mix of sun and ing and strengthening its wings. With e young bird got fed and the bird on clouds. All in all a great way to nish both the wind and the light behind the ridge quit apping just as we were our hiking tour of South Georgia! Wandering Albatross Artie Morris us, we were all hoping that we would summoned to the main observation witness the young bird’s rst ight. It platform 50 meters above us. As we ar- apped and apped and apped, then rived we noted that there was a Wan- rested for a minute and apped and dering Albatross chick about 2 meters apped and apped some more. ough from the boardwalk somewhat hidden the bird never took ight we were o to in the deep tussock grass. Immediately an amazing start. We learned later that the bird stood up, posed for head por- though others had seen this particular traits, and began apping in place. en bird hidden in the grass, it had stayed it walked about a bit, posed for more low and never apped once. head portraits, and apped and apped and apped. Just as our time was up, COULD IT BE? the huge young seabird sat back down On the way up the hill, I asked Joe Ka- in the grass. If that aernoon had been plan, “Has anyone seen a ying adult a movie, no one would have believed today?” He said, “No. e adults spend the ending. less time in the colonies as the chicks get near edgling age.” Fat chance I What better way to put the nishing thought….“Boy, that next to last group touches on an incredible 3-week jour- is sure taking a long time up there,” ney than with a magical fairy tale end- someone mentioned. Right aer that, ing? Dave Shoch who like Joe is a premier Adult Wandering Albatross with Chick Denise Ippolito

23 11 November 2015 At Sea en route to the Falkland Islands Day 12

OK, the yoga workout did not really happen although it was scheduled and it would really have proved interesting! We actually started our day a little more leisurely with a ne “Good Beautiful Morning” announcement from Michael, beckoning us to breakfast at 8 a.m.

SHAG ROCKS During the late morning, we came upon an iceberg which served to remind us we were still in Antarctic waters. Just beyond we could make out the shadowy outline of Shag Rocks, a lonely outcrop- ping of six small rocky islands - part of the British Overseas Territory of South Georgia - jutting out of the ocean and named for one of their main inhabitants - the seabird known as a shag although prions and Wandering Albatross are also known to nest there as well. On our eastbound voyage to South Georgia we Salisbury Plain Mark Maletsky passed Shag Rocks during the night, so this occasion presented a rare photo op- By Rosie Seton say goodbye. Once we weighed anchor ON DECK WORKOUT portunity as we passed by. yesterday aernoon at Prion Island and Our day started with a yoga workout at AT SEA, LEAVING SOUTHGEOR LECTURES, ACTIVITIES AND got underway, she closed her doors once 8 a.m. on the Ortelius’ helicopter deck GIA BEHIND BIRTHDAYS again as a mix of mist and clouds quick- and led by our captain! Dressed in our We are at sea today steaming towards ly closed in. e magical show that is nest landing gear and life jackets we Aer passing Shag Rocks, we kept our the Falkland Islands. e skies are South Georgia was over…We steamed headed out to the heli pad to workout! eyes glued to the ocean with expedition cloudy; the seas constantly undulate. It westward overnight. Dawn broke and With the rolling of the seas, perform- sta Joe Kaplan and Dave Shoch to do was a great gi in that our last two days we woke up with South Georgia le far ing down-dog, upward-dog and planks a spot of bird watching and photogra- in South Georgia were sunny and spec- behind us and we wondered if we had proved interesting and required using phy. Upon the bridge, our science team tacular. It was as if she graced us with just imagined her. muscles we didn’t even know we had! from Allied Whale, COA kept an eye her more benign side before we had to out for whales and dolphins. Sprinkled

24 Day 12 At Sea en route to the Falkland Islands 11 November 2015

DAY 12 AT NOON Location Scotia Sea Latitude 53˚27’ 8 S Longitude 42˚21’ 0 W Total Sailed 196 miles Wind 24 knots NW Air Temperature 4°C Weather Overcast, Fog

Always fun to have a birthday on board a Cheesemans’ Expedition! Dinner was followed by the lm, “Around Cape Horn,” in the lecture hall. is famous 1929 movie was lmed by the seaman King Penguins Phil Marcus Yellow-billed (South Georgia) Pintail Sharon Gibb and lmmaker, Irving McClure Johnson on the barque Peking as it rounded the throughout the day - and for those not Ted Cheeseman, “Creative Photography in the Zodiac cruise to notorious Cape Horn. e rolling of the wishing to be out on deck - we were en- Techniques for Landscapes II” given by in the Drygalski Fjord, photos of Wed- seas in the Lecture Hall only added to gaged below listening to several superb Moe Witschard and followed by Hugh dell Seals were also desired for research the experience! It was another splendid presentations. During the late morning, Rose’s lecture on “Plate Tectonics of purposes. As well as soliciting photos day on the Ortelius! Tashi Tenzing gave a lecture entitled: South Georgia Geology.” all day, sta also sought donations for “Fullling Your Dreams: Celebrating the upcoming South Georgia Auction, a As well as searching for whales and the 50th Anniversary of Climbing Ev- fundraiser for the South Georgia Hab- seabirds and listening to the always in- erest.” It was a moving account of ve itat Restoration and the Save the Alba- formative talks, several of our expedi- decades of climbing the famed peak tross Funds to be held on Nov. 12 before tion sta were soliciting and accepting coupled with spectacular footage and the departure of some of our passengers photos for several upcoming events: stunning music. Lunch was served af- in the Falkland Islands. One can only the Nature and People slideshows and terwards. During the aernoon, we imagine the interesting and unique con- Photo Critiques slideshow. All on board were further treated to several more tributions oered! were invited to submit two photos for illuminating lectures including: “South- the photo critique, up to 5 for the na- In the evening, we had a leisurely dinner ern Ocean Biodiversity: From Geologic ture slideshow, and lots for the people at 7 p.m. with heartfelt birthday wishes Past to a Changing Future” presented by slideshow! For those who participated extended to shipmate Doug Bullock! King Penguin Neck Abstract Artie Morris

25 12 November 2015 At Sea en route to the Falkland Islands Day 13

It’s like living in the middle of the ocean, with no future, no past, and everything that’s good about now, well might just glide right past - songwriter Beth Orton.

SEA TIME = LECTURE TIME By Joe Kaplan of a So-plumaged Petrel - our 25th DAY 13 AT NOON species tubenose (in the order Pro- Sea time is also lecture time on a Chee- Location Scotia Sea ALL EYES ON DECK seman Expedition and today’s tropics cellariiformes) for the trip. Following Latitude 52˚40’ 1 S Sunrise nds us halfway between South quickly on the wings of the petrel was a varied from Tim and Pauline’s “South Longitude 49˚11’ 5 W Georgia and the Falklands under fa- sighting of another rarely encountered Georgia’s Environmental History, Chal- vorable conditions for passage and a cetacean the Southern Bottlenosed lenges, and Successes,” to Evan Kovac’s Total Sailed 253 miles productive “All Eyes on Deck” seabird Whale. Adding a clean sweep of the al- “Titantic Mapping Project”, and Ali’s Wind 15 knots NNW spotting session with Dave and Joe. is batross (Gray-headed, Black-browed, “Zooniverse: People and Penguins and Air Temperature 9°C morning the Ortelius befriends a pod Light-mantled, Royal, and Wandering) Citizen Science,” followed by the ever Weather Clear of ten Hourglass Dolphins that spends the morning took on a certain sense of popular photography critique lead by a generous amount of time bow-riding accomplishment. What could top this? Hugh and Ron and nally David Smith’s our ship and providing some fantastic A rhetorical question until a Manx lm “Falklands, South Georgia and views of this beautiful, poorly-known, Shearwater – from the North Atlantic – with Cheesemans’ Ecology and highly pelagic cetacean. Our excite- answered the call from the stern of the 2014-2015.” ment ramped up again with a sighting ship during the late aernoon.

Gray-headed Albatross Clemens Vanderwerf Cape Petrel Ty Smedes Ice Formation Ron Niebrugge

26 Day 14 At Sea and Stanley Disembarkation 13 November 2015

By Dave Shoch Shearwaters, Great Shearwaters, Atlan- hot rounds of bidding, tic Petrels, a single Falkland Skua (iden- many on items gen- APPROACHING THE FALKLANDS tied by its dark cap), and Southern erously donated from Our third day at sea aer leaving South Royal Albatross – at one point in the among us, including Georgia … We had now crossed the wake, near where a group of whales had prints by Artie, Denise, and entered the been spotted, there was a tight confer- Clemens and Hugh, and warmer waters to the north. e water ence of 8 great albatross, wanderers and an especially memo- temperature today averaged 3 degrees southern royals, sitting in a tight group, rable item donated by Celsius, and mind you, it was still cold, heads together over some apparent for- Arvi, and later sported just that you could tolerate longer peri- aging opportunity at the surface. uncannily well by a suc- ods on deck. cessful Joe. All told, we AUCTION raised over $4,660 from We had a number of close sightings of the live and silent auc- Fin and Sei Whales, surfacing briey In the aernoon we gathered at the bar, Joe Sporting Memorable Auction Item with Arvi Bahal Debra Herst tions. close to the Ortelius, but despite several champagne glasses in hand, to toast our successful voyage and to hold the approach in the warm light of the sun- deviations from our heading to aord FIRST DEPARTURES closer views, our encounters remained auction to benet the Save the Alba- set, including Imperial Cormorants and eeting. e birdlife now heralded the tross campaign and the South Georgia In the evening before dinner we watched several ras of Magellanic Penguins. increasing proximity of the Falkland Is- Heritage Trust. Auctioneer and enter- the Falklands appear at the horizon, and Aer dinner we bid farewell to our con- lands, with building numbers of Sooty tainer Joe Kaplan presided over some the wealth of birdlife accompanying our tingent departing in Stanley, and ferried them ashore for their last “landing”, but not without a nal showing of wildlife - a group of Commerson’s Dolphins keeping pace in the wake of the Zodiacs, visible in the fading light.

DAY 14 AT NOON Location Scotia Sea Latitude 51˚52’ 7 S Longitude 55˚53’ 6 W Total Sailed 260 miles Wind 20 knots W Air Temperature 9°C Weather Partly Cloudy

Dinner on the Deck Teresa Blase

27 14 November 2015 At Sea Offshore of Falkland Islands Day 15

By Joe Kaplan DAY 15 AT NOON Location South of Falklands LAST LANDING FOILED Latitude 52˚47’ 1 S is morning had an auspicious begin- Longitude 60˚02’ 8 W ning with a Tusscock-bird (the Falkland Islanders name for Blackish Cincloides) Total Sailed 205 miles coming aboard to greet the Ortelius as Wind 15 knots NW we anchored just oshore of Sea Lion Air Temperature 12°C Island – our last landing destination. Weather Partly Cloudy Unfortunately, our luck would not hold as the landing party spent 45 minutes bouncing in big surf watching breaker aer breaker bombard the sandy beach- es within full view of Falkland Steam- er-Ducks, Magellanic Penguins, and Gentoo Penguins on shore. No matter Giant-Petrel Glenn Bartley On Deck Photography Helena Backes how we angled a landing was not pos- sible and conditions only promised to deteriorate during the morning. Sadly, we steam west looking for an alterna- tive landing site that never presents. e waters surrounding the Falkland’s Alan Lillich Clemens Vanderwerf are still rich with viewing opportunities as we enjoy our rst encounters with Peale’s Dolphin, Brown-hooded Gull, Magellanic Cormorant (Rock Shag), and Northern Royal Albatross - the dark-winged form that that nests on the Chatham Islands, Auckland Islands, and Taiaroa Head near Dunedin, New Zealand. Later in the aernoon while back in the pelagic zone, a Barn Swallow joins the ship taking refuge in an open hatch to rest from an undoubtedly long ight over a large ocean. Southern Royal Albatross Ty Smedes Pat Lillich Clemens Vanderwerf

28 Day 16-17 At Sea and Ushuaia Disembarkation 15-16 November 2015

By Dave Shoch binoculars revealed trees (!) ashore.

EN ROUTE TO BEAGLE CHANNEL In addition to the Sooty Shearwaters we saw around 10 Northern and South- Sooty Shearwater was the bird of the ern Royal Albatrosses (saying good- day. We saw thousands over the course bye to our last great albatrosses of the of the day, streaming by in loose, weav- voyage!), and typical seabirds of the ing groups. e sooties were all headed southern South American coast: Im- north to south, soon to arrive at their perial Cormorants, South American colonies here among the Fuegian Is- Terns, Kelp Gulls and Chilean Skuas. Of lands, returning from their marathon interest were two small groups of pen- migration from the north Atlantic guins sighted, one of which proved to where they spent the austral winter. be Magellanic Penguins, which we ex- In the morning we passed Staten Island pected, and the other Rockhopper Pen- (Isla de los Estados) and worked our guins, which we did not. Our reaction Rockhopper Penguins Andy Lee way slowly toward the entrance of the at the time was that the Rockhoppers Beagle Channel. Shockingly, a scan with must be far out of place – later we dis- covered that colonies of Rockhoppers had been recorded thirty years ago on Beaker on Deck Phil Marcus islands nearby by Gerry Clark, Alan Cowan and Peter Harrison (their travels recounted in Gerry’s book e Totorore straight to the airport. While those on Voyage). later ights had a more leisurely break- fast before boarding the bus to enjoy By Gina Barton some time in Ushuaia before heading to the airport. Some folks were staying on DOCKING board to continue on to the Antarctic Peninsula. We awoke very early to the sounds of the Ortelius docking in Ushuaia, then later Many goodbyes and hugs were shared greeted by Ted’s last soothing “Good in Reception, and very hard to believe morning, shipmates.” Peeking out from that our voyage was over. Expeditions the ship we had sweeping views of the are wonderful because we share so mountains that surround Ushuaia. many experiences, while each of us still ose on the 9 a.m. ights out had an has a unique experience of the magical early breakfast before boarding the bus island of South Georgia. Light-mantled Albatross Glenn Bartley

29 30 King Penguins Alan Lillich EXPEDITION STAFF

Judy Allen Gina Barton Pauline Carr Bar Harbor ME Mountain View CA Waimate USA USA New Zealand

Tim Carr Ted Cheeseman Oliver Coray Waimate Santa Cruz CA Soldotna AK New Zealand USA USA

Tom Fernald Lynne Hoole Joe Kaplan Bar Harbor ME Mowbray Escanaba MI USA South Africa USA

Ron Niebrugge Hugh Rose Juan Manuel Salcedo Seward AK Fairbanks AK Puerto Ayora Galápagos USA USA

Rosie Seton Dave Shoch Peter Stevick Mount Desert ME Charlottesville VA Rockport ME USA USA USA

Ali Swanson Tashi Tenzing Moe Witschard Wolvercote OX Kathmandu Bozeman MT Nepal USA

31 16-Nov 16-Nov

15-Nov √ √ 15-Nov √ √ 14-Nov √ √ √ 14-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √ 13-Nov √ √ √ 13-Nov √√ √ √ √√ √√ √ √ √ √√ √ √ √ √ √ √ 12-Nov √ √ √ √ √ 12-Nov

11-Nov √√ √ √11-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 10-Nov √√ √√ √ √ √ √ √ √√ √ √ √ √ √ 10-Nov

9-Nov 9-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 8-Nov √ 8-Nov

7-Nov 7-Nov √ √√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 6-Nov √√ √ √√ √ √ √ 6-Nov

5-Nov √ √ √ √ 5-Nov

4-Nov √ √ √ 4-Nov √√ √ √ √ √ √√√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 3-Nov √ √√ √ √ √ √ 3-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √ 2-Nov √ √ √ √ √ 2-Nov √√ √ √ √ √ √√√√√√√√√√√√√√√ √ √ √√√√√√√√√√√√√√√√ 1-Nov √√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √√ √ √ √ √ 1-Nov √ √ √ 31-Oct √ √ √ √ √ √ 31-Oct (page 1 of 2) SPECIES LIST BY DATE SPECIES LIST BY Wilson's Storm-Petrel Wilson's Storm-Petrel Gray-backed Common/South Georgia Diving-Petrel Georgia Common/South Atlantic Petrel Atlantic Soft-plumaged Petrel Blue Petrel Prion Antarctic Prion Slender-billed Prion Fairy White-chinned Petrel Shearwater Great Sooty Shearwater Manx Shearwater Diving-Petrel Common Diving-Petrel South Georgia Kerguelen Petrel Kerguelen Northern Giant-Petrel Southern Fulmar Petrel Petrel/Pintado Cape Petrel Antarctic Petrel Snow Bird speciesBird Steamer-Duck Falkland Pintail (South Georgia) Yellow-billed King Penguin Penguin Gentoo Rockhopper Penguin Albatross Gray-headed Albatross Black-browed Albatross Light-mantled Albatross Royal Northern Royal Southern Royal Albatross Wandering Southern Giant-Petrel Chinstrap Penguin Chinstrap Magellanic Penguin Penguin Macaroni

32 √ √ 16-Nov √ √ √ 16-Nov

15-Nov √ √ 15-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 14-Nov √ 14-Nov √√ √√ √ 13-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √√ √ √ √ √ 13-Nov ? 12-Nov √ √ √ √ 12-Nov

11-Nov √ √ 11-Nov

10-Nov √ √ 10-Nov

9-Nov √ √ 9-Nov

8-Nov 8-Nov

7-Nov 7-Nov √ √ 6-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √√ √√ √ √ √ √6-Nov √ √ √ √ ?

5-Nov √ 5-Nov

4-Nov 4-Nov √ √ √ √√ √ √ √ 3-Nov √ √√ √ √ √ √ √ √√ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 3-Nov

2-Nov √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ √ 2-Nov

1-Nov √ √ √ 1-Nov √ √ √ √ 31-Oct √ 31-Oct (page 2 of 2) SPECIES LIST BY DATE SPECIES LIST BY Southern Seal Elephant Dolphin Gull Gull Brown-hooded Kelp Gull South American Tern Tern Antarctic Rock Pigeon Blackish Cinclodes Barn Swallow Pipit South Georgia Mammal species Humpback Whale Whale Fin Sei Whale Minke Whale Sperm Whale Southern Bottlenosed Whale beaked whale species? Dolphin Hourglass Dolphin Peale's Dolphin Commerson's dolphin unidentied House Sparrow Seal Weddell Seal Fur Antarctic Seal South American Fur South American Sea Lion South Georgia Shag South Georgia Imperial Cormorant Night-Heron Black-crowned Vulture Turkey Snowy Sheathbill Black-bellied Storm-Petrel Black-bellied storm-petrel unidentifed Shag Magellanic Cormorant/Rock Magellanic Oystercatcher Dotterel Rufous-chested Chilean Skua Skua (/Falkland) Brown

33 THE MANY FACES OF NATURE

Southern Elephant Seal Les Sharp South Georgia Pipit Artie Morris

Chinstrap Penguin Debra Herst Northern Giant-Petrel Alan Jones

Gray-headed Albatross Douglas Bullock King Penguin Alan Jones

Oakum Boy Denise Ippolito Black-browed Albatross Debra Herst

Male Southern Elephant Seal Lynne Bergbreiter Macaroni Penguin Clemens Vanderwerf Southern Elephant Seal Mark Maletsky Wandering Albatross chick Cheryl Cathcart 34 Southern Elephant Seal Andy Lee35 36 37

/ Total value: ______Total Zip Code Date Expiration . All sponsors receive a certificate. receive . All sponsors $140 per hectare Email: [email protected] • Website: www.fosgi.org • Website: Email: [email protected] Donations directly into our account should be sent to: Alpine Bank, 711 E. Valley Valley to: Alpine Bank, 711 E. should be sent our account into directly Donations Please check this box if you do not wish to receive FOSGI updates. FOSGI receive do not wish to if you q Please check this box (number)______hectares x $140 each = Date for anyone who cares about preserving our natural world. our natural about preserving who cares anyone for 970 704 9178 (USA) / 970 948 0778 (USA) / +44 (0) 1382 229792 (UK) / 970 948 0778 (USA) 970 704 9178 (USA) Through Friends of South Georgia Island (FOSGI) of South Georgia Through Friends And remember…a hectare of South Georgia makes a unique and appreciated gift a unique and appreciated makes of South Georgia hectare And remember…a Sponsor a Hectare of South Georgia Credit Card Number Card Credit Please make payable to “Friends of South Georgia Island” and send it with this form to the address below. the address to Island” and send it with this form “Friends of South Georgia to payable Please make threatened wildlife and studies to help us understand how best to protect the island’s wildlife. the island’s protect to best how help us understand to and studies wildlife threatened If you would like to receive our updates by email, please ensure your email address is included above. We use email as it is quicker and cheaper – use email as it is quicker We is included above. email address your email, please ensure by our updates receive to like would If you Friends of South Georgia Island, 25 Dakota Meadows Drive, Carbondale, CO 81623 Friends of South Georgia Island, 25 Dakota When you sponsor a hectare (or more) of South Georgia you help support work to conserve endangered and endangered conserve to help support work you of South Georgia (or more) sponsor a hectare When you I would like to sponsor I would like Help give South Georgia back to its birds for only for its birds back to South Georgia Help give Friends of South Georgia Island is a US 501(c)(3) tax-exempt nonprofit organization dedicated to raising funds for the conservation of South Georgia. of South Georgia. conservation for the raising funds to dedicated organization nonprofit Island is a US 501(c)(3) tax-exempt Friends of South Georgia leaving us with more money to spend on our conservation work. We guarantee that your information will never be made available to any other party. any other party. to available be made never will your information that We guarantee work. spend on our conservation to money us with more leaving (the last 3 digits on the back of your card) card) 3 digits on the back of your Security Number (the last Card: q Credit Card Name on Credit Account Number: 55200008332. Routing number: 102103407. Number: 55200008332. Routing Account q Check: Signature Address Street State City Billing Phone Billing address & phone if different from above: Road Ste. 101, Basalt, CO 81621, USA. Bank phone: 970 927 3653. Account Name: Friends of South Georgia Island. Name: Friends of South Georgia Bank phone: 970 927 3653. Account 81621, USA. 101, Basalt, CO Ste. Road Payment Options: Payment Method): (Preferred Transfer q Wire Name be on the certificate wish it to Name(s) as you Phone # Address City/State/Zip clearly) (please write Email address this form obtained you us where Please tell

38 SOUTH GEORGIA AND FALKLAND ISLANDS EXPEDITION LOG 2015

CHEESEMANS’ ECOLOGY SAFARIS (800) 527-5330 20800 Kittridge Road www.cheesemans.com Saratoga, California 95070 USA [email protected]