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Year of Saisons and Reflect Some of Smaller Brewers

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Year of Saisons and Reflect Some of Smaller Brewers s sure as this planet twirls around the sun, I know there is always a rea- son for a Saison. While brewers around me dabble with their Pale Ales, DIPAs and barleywines, I find myself thinking months ahead to Amy next funky farmhouse. My brewing calendar resembles the pages of The Old Farmer’s Almanac (Page 129, June 2008: “Brew a Saison Automné,” “Plow and Gun Combo Patented, 1862.”) My Saison epiphany came not from the farmlands of Wallonia, but from L.A.’s old- est (and now no longer brewing) brewpub, Crown City Brewing of Pasadena. Brewer Jay Baum dropped an unknown glass of beer in front of me and let the unusual smells confound my newbie nose. Some hops, some spice, a little malt and a whole wallop of weird opened my eyes to the existence of the style. Nights of studying every Saison I could find led to years of brewing with no end in sight for the experiment. A Tale of Two Breweries ton candy with crepes and every beer Saison comes in between 5 and 6.5 per- Founded in the mid 1800s, the Tourpes- from Dupont! cent abv to provide refreshment without based Brasserie Dupont stands as the dissolution. The super Saisons instead paragon of Saison brewers. Until the Matt shares responsibility for the Saison for sprawl across the spectrum in color, bitter- recent explosion of exploration, their Every Saison project because he took us to ness, spiciness and alcoholic power. Vieille Provision Saison was the single the crazy, scary wonderful world of Brewers use super Saisons for their wilder hallmark of the style. The crisp, herbal, Fantôme. In 1988 Dany Prignon, a home- experimentations. Uniting both disparate citrusy, spicy aroma is just the beginning. brewer and tourism director for his region, types are their fantastically potent and Dupont claims no spice additions to their founded Fantôme in a crumbling farm- unique yeasts and low terminal gravities. beer; the spice-like flavors are the result of house outside of Soy.Careful with the doors the hot ferment method I favor. In the 50s here—close one too hard and the others Saisons consist of European Pilsner malt the Super (aka “stronger”) Saison rose swing open. Must be the ghost at play! traditionally accented with portions of from Dupont’s tanks in the form of the Munich, Vienna and wheat malt. To twin Moinettes, Blonde and Brune, their Everything is done by hand and on repur- achieve the style’s signature low terminal most popular beers domestically. They do posed equipment. Family and friends fill, gravity, lower saccharification temperatures not refer to them as Saisons, but they still cork, cap and label each bottle. If you capable of producing simple fermentable carry the hallmark dry earthy flavors. The show up on the right day, the double- sugars are used. I use single infusion mash- 1960s introduction of their winter gift, espresso-wired Dany may enlist your help es, but my Automné recipe uses a tradi- Avec Les Bon Voeux, reinforced the mod- mucking out the lauter. His brewery, built tional step mash schedule from Brasserie à ern Super concept. Thankfully, this beer, on the back of his year-round Saison, shot Vapeur, brewers of Saison Pipaix. Simple one of my favorites, moved from seasonal to infamy with the release of the dande- sugar additions help drop the terminal production to year-round availability. lion-infused Pissenlit. His reckless aban- gravity and boost apparent dryness. don and secret kettle additions infuse the The best way to see the farmhouse in seasonal releases with an air of irresistible For bite and aroma, classic hop choices action and enjoy the wares is to follow mystery. That spirit directly inspired the include the earthy East Kent Goldings, the lead of Matt Stinchfield, who led a playful nature of my Saison brewing. floral Styrian Goldings or the spicy noble small tour of dedicated drinkers in 2001. hops. Saisons carry a healthy bitter bite Matt timed our arrival in the town to the Basics of the Style from a Belgian perspective, not a hop annual Tourpes en Activité. Imagine a Two categories of modern Saison exist: the crazed American view! Keep the bitter- small-town Iowa fair advertised by road classic workers’ tipple and the more ness restrained to avoid conflicting with signs, but replace the corn dogs and cot- recent “super” Saison. The traditional the yeast. Spices are a touchy subject. Before appro- 3725 Biere de Garde: From the area of on the wheat to provide a soft sweetness. priate strains of yeast were available, it was Soy-Ereze, a vigorous fermenter that pro- Controlling the fermentation temperature common to chuck heavy doses of corian- duces a more restrained farmhouse spiced will modify the aroma and flavor profile to der, black pepper, ginger, grains of para- character. Soft fruity characters increase a neutral Wit-like base. This recipe ends dise and cinnamon to recreate the classic with fermentation temperature. up a stronger and wheatier version of the profile. With proper yeast and fermenta- miner’s ale, Grisette. tion techniques generating a complex and 3726 Farmhouse Ale: From another clas- integrated profile, spices take the role of sic Belgian brewery known for a small Été accent, so tiny amounts have great power. range of Saisons, this yeast produces an The classic Saison, the quaff of the aggressive phenolic and spicy aroma. It farmhands, inspires this recipe. Burnished Yeasts attenuates well and runs best in the upper orange with hop-enhanced rocky, foamy Unlike our early experimentation days, 70s to ferment to finish. head, it arrives just waiting for a long pull there are now multiple suitable strains to civilly quench thirst. My Été has available from our commercial yeast sup- White Labs evolved endlessly, changing year to year. plies, ready to chomp on the nearest sugar WLP565 Belgian Saison: This is the stuff Like many Saison recipes of the late 90s, supply. Astute readers will notice that of legends. Slightly funky and earthy with heaps of coriander, pepper, orange peel, none of the recipes assigns a preferred a deep spicy bite, with the right treatment ginger and more found their way into the yeast strain. In the past, WLP565 or and patience the yeast can drop a 1.080 kettle and left a sticky, sweet, spicy mess. Wyeast 3724 have been my cultures of beer to 1.010 or lower. Ugh! The recipe grew in strength as the choice, but I encourage you to play and spice additions shrank. With newly find your own favorite. WLP566 Belgian Saison II: A platinum inspired confidence, I was able to get a strain available in July/August. Speedier large batch of yeast rocking in the hot Los The classic Saison strains require rougher than its cousin, 566 has a subdued char- Angeles summer. Reaching a target termi- than normal treatment to get the job acter in comparison with a stronger clove nal gravity of 1.010 or less, the beer is a done. My methodology consists of pitch- character coming through. potent reminder of the fieldwork at hand. ing a large, decanted yeast cake into well- Brisk, but not overwhelming, bitterness chilled wort (65° F or less) and then let- WLP568 Belgian Saison Blend: New sweeps the bone-dry beer from the palate. ting the ferment rise naturally, to wherev- from White Labs and produced in The bare additions of kettle spices round er it will. This encourages full attenuation response to the finicky nature of 565, out the flavor without overriding the char- and pleasant, not harsh, yeast phenols this blend is intended to push the beer acteristic yeast bite. and esters. This works even in the SoCal drier and faster and still retain the defin- summer heat. I have pushed the WLP565 itive Saison character. Dave’s Original Saison up to 90° F with great success. Saison Dave Logsdon of Wyeast shares his more yeasts are finicky and appear to stall out. The Recipes traditional Saison recipe. The small touch Give the yeast some time (a week or two) A note on these Saison “styles”: In of acidulated malt adds just a touch of and it comes back alive. If the ferment is Belgium, there really are no rules. The fol- piquancy to the final product, like the truly stuck, a dose of neutral ale yeast lowing recipes outline a way of thinking twinge of acidity found in the products of (US-05) can complete the job. about a year of Saisons and reflect some of smaller brewers. the trends seen from commercial brewers. Wyeast Many thanks go to my fellow Saison afi- Automné 3711 French Saison: If you like citrus aro- cionado and brew partner, Jim Kopitzke, The role of the Scots in the brewing histo- mas, this is the yeast for you. Brewers for playing along and working these out ry of the world has gone undersung. report rich, digestible peppered grapefruit with me. <Scottish accent>They’re used to it and results. While it will ferment hot, Wyeast don’t need your stinking praise. <Scottish recommends slightly cooler temperatures Printemps accent> Looking beyond the effect for this strain. As the sun begins to rise and workers wrought on Trappist beers and the world return to the field, they need a refreshing famous Duvel (mutated McEwan’s yeast? 3724 Belgian Saison: This is the stan- and warming beer to ward off the last cold Really?), there are a number of Scotch dard Wyeast Saison yeast, available year wintery touch. Playing with the grassy Ales roaming the Belgian countryside. round. This and WLP565 are the strains smell of newly prepared fields, the Exploring the breweries of the region, you that require the most attention to achieve Printemps recipe starts with a heavy touch can see the Scottish influence in breweries their maximum potential.
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