©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Malta &

Gozo & p127

Northern p85 , St Julian's & p76 Central Malta p103 p50

Southern Malta p117

Brett Atkinson PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to VALLETTA...... 50 SLIEMA, ST JULIAN’S Malta & Gozo...... 4 History...... 52 & PACEVILLE. . . . . 76 Malta & Gozo’s Top 10. . . 8 Sights...... 52 Sliema & Around ...... 78 Need to Know...... 14 Courses...... 60 St Julian’s & Paceville. . . . 81 What’s New...... 16 Tours...... 60 If You Like…...... 17 Eating...... 60 NORTHERN MALTA. . . 85 Month by Month. . . . . 19 Drinking & Nightlife. . . . . 63 Golden Bay & Itineraries ...... 22 Entertainment ...... 67 Għajn Tuffieħa...... 88 Accommodation. . . . . 24 Shopping...... 67 Mġarr & Around...... 89 Getting Around Around Valletta...... 69 Mellieħa & Around...... 89 Malta & Gozo...... 26 Hal Saflieni Hypogeum & Marfa Peninsula...... 92 Activities...... 28 Temples...... 69 Xemxija ...... 92 Eat & Drink The Three Cities...... 70 Like a Local...... 38 Buġibba, Qawra & Vittoriosa...... 70 St Paul’s Bay...... 96 Travel with Children. . . . 43 ...... 75 Baħar Iċ-Ċagħaq . . . . . 102 Regions at a Glance. . . .. 47 MACIEJNICGORSKI /SHUTTERSTOCK © MARTA / 500PX ©

TRITON FOUNTAIN, VALLETTA P60 DANILOVI /GETTY IMAGES ©

BLUE LAGOON, COMINO P148 Contents

UNDERSTAND

CENTRAL MALTA. . . 103 GOZO & COMINO. . . . 127 Malta & Gozo Today ...... 150 ...... 106 Gozo...... 130 History...... 152 Rabat...... 110 Victoria (Rabat)...... 130 Cliffs...... 112 The Maltese Way Mġarr...... 135 of Life...... 163 ...... 114 Mġarr ix-Xini...... 136 5000 Years of ...... 115 ...... 137 Architecture ...... 167 & the Ta’Ċenċ ...... 137 Three Villages...... 115 ...... 138 Fomm ir-Riħ ...... 116 SURVIVAL Għarb & . . . 139 GUIDE SOUTHERN MALTA. . . . 117 Dwejra ...... 140 ...... 120 ...... 141 Birżebbuġa ...... 121 Xagħra...... 143 Directory A–Z...... 172 ...... 122 ...... 145 Transport...... 177 Żurrieq...... 123 Comino...... 148 Language...... 183 Ħaġar Qim & . . . 124 Index...... 187 Għar Lapsi...... 126 Map Legend...... 191

SPECIAL FEATURES Diving & Snorkelling. . . 28 Eat & Drink Like a Local...... 38 Valletta Image Gallery...... 64 5000 Years of CARMELITE BASILICA, Architecture...... 167 VALLETTA P61 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 22

Itineraries

GOZO Blue Lagoon Ù# COMINO o in É om l h C ne f# ut an M E D I T E R R A N E A N So Ch S E A

•# Marfa Peninsula É

•#Park tal-Majjistral

Golden Bay •# É MALTA #_Valletta •#Vittoriosa •# Mdina •# •# Rabat Senglea É Tarxien Temples and

•# É Hal Saflieni Hypogeum É

•# Marsaxlokk Ħaġar Qim É & Mnajdra •# St Peter's

M E D I T E R R A N E A N •# Pool •# É S E A Blue Grotto

1 WEEK Essential Malta

Malta’s diminutive dimensions (27km by 14.5km) mean having your own car is an asset; otherwise, base yourself in Valletta, Naxxar, Sliema or St Julian’s for the easiest bus connections. Begin in Valletta – explore the narrow streets and fortifications, admire views across the , and visit MUŻA, St John’s Co-Cathedral and the Grand Master’s . On the second day, experience Fort St Elmo, visiting the National War Museum, before a ferry ride across the harbour to Vittoriosa and Senglea. On day three visit the Tarxien Temples and Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, en route south for a seafood lunch at Marsaxlokk. Spend the afternoon at St Peter’s Pool, a rocky bay with flat rocks for sunbathing. On day four take a boat trip to the Blue Grotto, explore the clifftop temples of Ħaġar Qim & Mnajdra, and then spend the afternoon in Mdina and Rabat. Allocate day five to relaxing on a beach, such as Golden Bay, recharging for physical activity on day six – a walk around Park tal-Majjistral or maybe scuba diving around the Marfa Peninsula. End on a high with a day trip to Comino’s Blue Lagoon. 23

M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A

Salt Pans É •# Marsalforn Basilica of •# Ramla Ta'Pinu Bay

•# San Blas TRIP YOUR PLAN Ù# Bay

É GOZO É É É Ù#

Victoria Xagħra •# •# É •# Dwejra (Rabat) É Ġgantija •#

É Temples É

É ino om It

Ta'Ċenċ É h C el É rt n

o n i nerar •# f# N Cha

Ù# É É Mġarr •# ix-Xini Comino i es

ino om M E D I T E R R A N E A N h C el S E A out nn S Cha

MALTA

5 DAYS Gozo

The island of Gozo (14km by 7km) is much smaller than Malta but you still need time to do it justice. Because of its modest size, you can base yourself almost anywhere, particu- larly if you have your own set of wheels (recommended). Another great way to get around is to hire a bicycle (available on Gozo) or an electric bike (to help with the hills) – the latter must be collected on Malta and brought to Gozo on the ferry. To get the most out of your stay, rent a rambling, idyllic Gozitan farmhouse. Start your visit by spending a morning exploring Victoria (Rabat), wandering around recently restored Il-Kastell, with its astounding views, and the narrow lanes of Il-Borgo. Take a trip over to the huddled town of Marsalforn for a lazy lunch with sea views and then visit the dramatically set salt pans just outside the town. On day two, head to the grand pilgrimage centre of Basilica of Ta’Pinu with its poign- ant votive offerings, to pay your respects, then while away the rest of the day walking, swimming and snorkelling amid the fantastical moonscape scenery of Dwejra. Set aside day three for walking around the soul-stirring clifftop scenery of Ta’Ċenċ, and for seeking out a lesser-known spot for swimming and snorkelling (nearby Mġarr ix-Xini is lovely, and a great place for a leisurely lunch). Begin day four with a visit to the extraordinary prehistoric Ġgantija Temples and other attractions of Xagħra, then spend the afternoon reclining on Ramla Bay or more remote San Blas Bay, both of which are beautiful beaches where red sands meet blue water. It’s even easier to visit the tiny island of Comino from Gozo than it is from Malta, so arrange your boat trip and spend an afternoon paddling around the Blue Lagoon. There’s five days covered, but why not allocate a week and spend a few days relaxing poolside or on the beach? ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 186

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

for highlighting Malta’s best new restaurants. OUR READERS Thanks also to Arthur Grima, Kurt Mifsud and Many thanks to the travellers who used the last Simon Sciberras. At LP, thanks to Anna Tyler edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful for the opportunity to explore the best little advice and interesting anecdotes: nation in the Mediterranean. Final thanks to Miguel Marcos Martin, Larry Iversen, Muris Carol for joining me on our mini-adventure to Hebibović, Patricia Golan, Paul Whittington, Phil Gozo and beyond. Grimley, Philippe Funken, Rafael Barrios, Scot Stone, Sharon L Stern, Trevor Coultas. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, WRITER THANKS Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Brett Atkinson World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Clas- Returning to Malta was a pleasure and a privi- sification’, Hydrology and Earth System Scienc- lege, and I’m indebted to the following people: es, 11, 163344 Thank you to Hanna Briffa for art and dining Cover photograph: Melllieħa, Malta; Ken recommendations, and also to Denise Briffa Scicluna/AWL ©

THIS BOOK Destination Editor Anna Tyler Bennett, Helen Koehne, Senior Product Editor Charlotte Orr, Simon Williamson This 7th edition of Lonely Plan- Elizabeth Jones Cover Researcher et’s Malta & Gozo guidebook Paul Harding Naomi Parker was researched and written by Product Editor Imogen Bannister, Brett Atkinson. The previous Senior Cartographer Thanks to Anthony Phelan Hannah Cartmel, Gwen Cotter, two editions were written by Andi Jones, Kate Matthews, Abigail Blasi. This guidebook Book Designer Fergal Condon Martine Power, Rachel Rawling, was produced by the following: Assisting Editors Ronan Abayawickrema, Michelle Kirsten Rawlings. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 187

Index

A Mdina Experience 107 Sliema 78 caves 44 accessible travel 172 Valletta Living History 60 Xlendi 138 Calypso’s Cave 144 accommodation 24-5, 45 automobile associations 180 Żurrieq 123 Għar Dalam 121-2 activities 28-37, 45 see also Azure Window 140 Bonaparte, Napoleon 158-9 Għar Ħasan Cave 122 individual activities books 150 Ninu’s Cave 144 air travel 177 archaeology 169 Xerri’s Grotto 143-4 B aquariums 96-7, 46 babysitting 44 architecture 169 cell phones 14, 176 amusement parks 44 Baħar Iċ-Ċagħaq 102 cooking 41 Central Malta 103-16 Buġibba Water Park 97 bargaining 175 culture 163, 165 driving tours 113, 113 Popeye Village 90 basilicas, see churches & history 152, 154, 157, 158 food 103 Splash & Fun Park 102 cathedrals Briffa, Chris 169 highlights 104-5, 104-5 Arabs 153-4 bathrooms 176 Buġibba 96-101, 98 travel seasons 103 archaeological sites 17, 167 beaches 17, 34, 45 Buġibba Water Park 97 children, travel with 43-6, 46 cart ruts 114 Adeera Beach Complex 91 bus travel 27, 179-80 churches & cathedrals 168 Domus Romana 110 Baia Beach Club 92 business hours 15, 175 Basilica of St George 134 Ġgantija Temples 143 Daħlet Qorrot 146 Basilica of Ta’Pinu 139 Għar Dalam Cave & Għajn Tuffieħa Bay 88 Carmelite Basilica 61, 3 Museum 121-2 C Ġnejna Bay 89 Calypso’s Cave 144 Chapel of San Dimitri 140 Ħaġar Qim 13, 124-5 Golden Bay 88 car travel 180-2, 267 Chapel of St Mary Hal Saflieni Hypogeum Ħondoq ir-Rummien 146 Caravaggio 170 Magdalene 112 9, 69, 9 Mellieħa Bay 90 Chapel of the Mnajdra 13, 124-5 Carmelite Basilica 61, 3 Ramla Bay 144 Annunciation 123 Skorba Temples 89 19 San Blas Bay 146 Cathedral of the St Agatha’s Crypt & cart ruts 114 Assumption 132 Selmun (Imgiebah) Catacombs 110 Casa Bernard 110 Bay 90 of Our Lady of St Paul’s Catacombs 110 58 Lourdes 135 Sliema 78 Ta’Ħaġrat Temple 89 Cassar, Gerolamo 169 Church of Our Lady of Wied il-Għasri 144 Tarxien Temples 69-70 castles & fortresses 44 Victory 90 Xwieni Bay 141 architecture 17, 167-70 Dwejra (Qawra) Tower 141 Church of Our Lady’s beer 41 Armoury 73 Fort Campbell 90-1 Return from Egypt 148 Bethlehem Village 135-6 art galleries, see museums 71 Church of Saints Peter & bicycle travel 178-9 Paul 146 & galleries Fort St Angelo 71, 13 bird hunting 166 Church of St Helen 116 artists Fort St Elmo & National Birdlife Malta 35, 148 Caravaggio 170 War Museum 53, 56 Church of St Mary 116 birdwatching 37 Preti, Mattia 159 Il-Kastell 10, 131, 133, 10 Church of St Paul’s BirguFest 20 Bonfire 97 arts 165-6 Red (St Agatha’s) Tower Birkirkara 115-16 Church of St Paul’s ATMs 175 92 Birżebbuġa 121-2 Shipwreck 58 audiovisual shows St John’s Demi-Bastion Blue Grotto 123 132 Church of St Saviour 116 Gozo 360° 132 Blue Hole 141 St Mary’s Tower 148 Church of the Visitation Malta 5D 60 140 Blue Lagoon 12, 148, 2, 12 Wignacourt Tower 97-9 Malta Experience 60 Egg Church 89 boats 122 catacombs Grotto of the Madonna 90 boat travel 27, 97, 178, 179 St Agatha’s Crypt & Mosta Dome 114, boat trips Catacombs 110 94 Our Lady of the Grotto 111 Buġibba 99 St Paul’s Catacombs 110 Map Pages 000 Parish Church of Our Golden Bay 88 cathedrals, see churches & Photo Pages 000 Lady 115 Mġarr 136 cathedrals 188 churches & cathedrals Domus Romana 110 gardens, see parks & Grand Master’s Palace continued drinks 38-42 gardens 52-3 Parish Church of St driving 26-7, 175, 180-2 Gardjola Gardens 75, 65 78 Catherine 123 driving tours garnija 148 Mellieħa Air-Raid Rotunda 137 Shelters 90 Central Malta 113, 113 gay travellers 174 St Agatha’s Chapel 110 Mġarr Shelter 89 Gozo 147, 147 Ġgantija Temples 143

INDEX INDEX St John’s Co-Cathedral 132 Marfa Peninsula 93, 93 Għadira Nature Reserve 90 10, 52, 59, 59, 11 Saluting Battery 57 Dwejra 140-1 Għajn Rasul 99 St Paul’s Cathedral 106 Għajn Tuffieħa 88-9 St Agatha’s Crypt & Dwejra Marine Environ- Catacombs 110

C- St Paul’s Church 110  mental Education Għanafest 20

L St Paul’s Catacombs 110  cinemas 84, 101 Centre 141 Għar Dalam Cave & Cliffs, The 112 Museum 121-2 Ta’Kola Windmill 143 climate 14, 172, see also Għar Ħasan Cave 122 Victoria Lines 102 individual regions E economy 150-1 Għar Lapsi 12, 126, 12 Villa Dragonara 81 coffee 42 Egg Church 89 Għasri 144 War HQ Tunnels 57 Comino 27, 127, 128, 148, electricity 173 Għarb 139-40 history 152-62 128-9 embassies 173 glossary 185 19 consulates 173 emergency 15 Ġnejna Bay 89 Ħondoq ir-Rummien 146 cooking courses 41, 60 Esplora 70 Golden Bay 88, 88-9 horse racing 166 70-5 etiquette 15 Gozo 127-47 horse riding 37, 88, 114, 144 costs 15 hunting 175 events, see festivals & driving tours 147, 147 courses events food 127 cooking 41, 60 exchange rates 15 highlights 128-9, 128-9 diving 29-30 I travel seasons 127 Il-Borgo 134 language 174 F Gozo Nature Museum 132 Il-Kalanka Bay 121 crafts 165-6 farmhouse Gran Castello Historic Il-Kastell 10, 131, 133, 10 credit cards 175 accommodation 25, 25 House 132 immigration 163 cruises 182 Feast of Santa Marija Grand Master’s Palace 52-3 independence 161-2 culture 163-6 20, 21 Great Siege 154-7 Inland Sea 141 currency 14 fenkata 39 Grotto of the Madonna 90 Inquisitor’s Palace 71 customs regulations 172 ferry travel 97, 178, 179 insurance 173 cycling 178-9 festivals & events 19-21 internet access 173-4 BirguFest 75 H Ħaġar Qim 9, 13, 124-5, internet resources 15 D Feast of Santa Marija 124, 9 Isle of MTV 20, 165 Daħlet Qorrot 146 20, 21 Hal Saflieni Hypogeum Is-Simar Nature Reserve dangers 175-6 Malta Classic 107 8, 69, 9 96 Delimara Point 120 Malta International Food health 173 Is-Suq Tal-Belt 16 Dingli Cliffs 112-14 Festival 107 Heart of Gozo 134 itineraries 22-3 Dingli, Tommaso 169 Mdina Cathedral highlights 8-13, 6-7 disabilities, travellers Contemporary Art with 172 Biennale 107 Central Malta 104-5, K discount cards 52, 132, Filfla 123 104-5 Karmni Grima Museum 140 172-3 film 20, 60, 150, 161 Comino 128, 128-9 karrozin 179 diving & snorkelling 9, 13, Fireworks Festival 19 Gozo 128-9, 128-9 kayaking 36 28-35, 35, 13, 31, 32 Fomm ir-Riħ 116 Paceville 77, 77 kiteboarding 36, 18 dive schools 29-30 food 18, 38-42, 40, 41 Sliema 77, 77 Knights of St John 154, Buġibba 99 football 166 St Julian’s 77, 77 155, 168 Comino 148 Fort Campbell 90-1 Northern Malta 86-7, Dwejra 141 Fort Rinella 71 Southern Malta 118-19, L 118-19 86-7 Golden Bay 88 Fort St Angelo 71, 13 language 165, 183-5 Valletta 51, Marsalforn 143 Fort St Elmo & National 51 courses 174 War Museum 53 hiking 36-7, 96, see also Mellieħa 91 57 fortresses, see castles & walking Mġarr 136 Lear, Edward 127 fortresses historic sites Sliema 78 legal matters 174 fossil sites 100 Armoury 73 St Julian’s 81 lesbian travellers 174 Casa Bernard 110 LGBT+ travellers 174 Casa Rocca Piccola 58 G Lost & Found 19, 165 Gafa, Lorenzo 169 Gantry House 75 Map Pages 000 60 Photo Pages 000 galleries, see museums & galleries 189 M Cathedral Museum 106 O Q magazines 174 Fort St Elmo & National opening hours 15, 175 Qala Windmills 146 Malta Arts Festival 20 War Museum 53, 56 Qalet Marku Tower 102 Malta at War Museum 71 Għar Dalam Cave & Qawra 96-101 P Malta Classic 20, 107 Museum 121-2 Paceville 81-4, 82 Malta Classic Car Gozo Nature

drinking 76 INDEX Collection 97 Museum 132 R Rabat (Gozo), see Victoria Gran Castello Historic food 76 Malta International Air (Rabat) Show 20 House 132 highlights 77, 77 Rabat (Malta) 11, 110-12, Malta National Aquarium Heart of Gozo 134 travel seasons 76  M-S 108-9 96-7, 46 Inquisitor’s Palace 71 packing 15, 45

 radio 174 Manoel Island 78 Palazzo Falson 106 Karmni Grima Ramla Bay 144 mansions 169 Museum 140 Palazzo Parisio 115 Ras il-Qammieħ 92 Marfa Peninsula 92, 93, parking 181 93 Lascaris War Rooms 57 Red (St Agatha’s) Tower 92 Maria Rosa Winery 116 parks & gardens, see Malta at War Museum 71 religion 151, 164 markets also national parks & Malta Aviation reserves road rules 181-2 Bugeja Fish Market 136 Museum 110-11 Gardjola Gardens 75, 65 rock climbing 37, 139 Malta Artisan Markets Malta Classic Car Lower Barrakka Rolex Middle Sea Race 36 166 Collection 97 Gardens 60 Romans 153 Sunday Fish Market 120 57 Mdina Ditch Garden 106 Rotunda 137 Waterfront Market 120 Maritime Museum 71 San Anton Palace & Royal Malta Yacht Club 36 Marsalforn 141-3, 142 MUŻA 16, 57 Gardens 115 Royal Opera House 60 Marsaskala 122-3 National Museum of Marsaxlokk 120-1, 18 Archaeology 53 56-7, 64 marathons 34 National Museum of Villa Rundle Gardens 134 S Mdina 11, 106-9, 108-9, 11 Natural History 106-7 Park tal-Majjistral 88 Sacra Infermeria 60 safe travel 175-6 Mdina Cathedral Pomskizillious Museum parliament building 58, 64 sailing 36 Contemporary Art of Toys 144 Pasha, Mustafa 156-7 Bienniele 20, 107 Salina Nature Reserve 99 Sacra Infermeria 60 passports 177 Mdina Ditch Garden 106 salt pans 99, 120, 138, 140 The Cliffs 112 Phoenicians 153 measures 174 Saluting Battery 57 Toy Museum 60 photography 175 medical services 173 San Anton Palace & Wignacourt Museum 110 Indipendenza Medieval Mdina 19 Gardens 115 134, 94 Mediterranea 20 music 165 San Blas Bay 146 planning 16 megalithic sites 125, 167, MUŻA 16, 57 San Lawrenz 139-40 activities 28-37 see also archaeological scuba diving, see diving & budgeting 15 sites snorkelling N calendar of events 19-21 Mellieħa 89-92, 91 sea travel 27, 97, 178, 179 Nadur 145-8 children, travel with 43-6 Merisi, Michelangelo 170 Selmun (Imgiebah) Bay 90 Napoleon 158-9 highlights 8-13, Mġarr (Gozo) 135-6, 95 6-7 Senglea 70-5, 72-3 National Museum of internet resources 15 Mġarr (Malta) 89 sharklab 96 Archaeology 53 itineraries 22-3 Mġarr ix-Xini 136-7 Skorba Temples 89 National Museum of Malta & Gozo regions Misraħ ir-Rebħa 73 Sliema 78-81, Natural History 107 47-8 79 Mnajdra 13, 124-5, Sliema 13 national parks & reserves packing 15 mobile phones 14, 176 drinking 76 Għadira Nature travel seasons 14, 45 money 14, 15, 175 food 76 Reserve 90 travel to/from Malta & monuments Is-Simar Nature Gozo 15, 177-8 highlights 77, 77 Christ Statue 141 Reserve 96 travel within Malta & travel seasons 76 (Valletta) 57 Park tal-Majjistral 88 Gozo 26-7, 178-82 smoking 174 Għajn Rasul 99 Salina Nature politics 150-1 snorkelling, see diving & Triton Fountain 60, 2 Reserve 99 Pomskizillious Museum of snorkelling Victory Monument 73 Naxxar 115 Toys 144 soccer 166 Southern Malta 117-26 Mosta 114-15, 94 newspapers 174 Popeye Village 90, 94 population 151, 163 food 117 motor racing 166 Ninu’s Cave 144 motorcycle travel 180-2l Portomaso 81 highlights 118-19, 118-19 Northern Malta 85-102 139 postal services 175 travel seasons 117 food 85 museums & galleries 44-5 Preti, Mattia 159 Splash & Fun Park 102 highlights 86-7, Archaeology Museum 86-7 sport 166, see also 132 travel seasons 85 individual sports 190 St Agatha 112 temples U St John’s Co- St Agatha’s Crypt & Ġgantija Temples 143 Upper Barrakka Gardens Cathedral 10, 52, 59, , Catacombs 110 Ħaġar Qim 13, 124-5, 124 56-7, 64 59 10 St George’s Bay 81 Hal Saflieni Hypogeum Valletta 61, 61 St John’s Co-Cathedral 10, 9, 69, 9 Vittoriosa 74, 74 52, 59, 59, 11 Mnajdra 13, 124-5 V 136-7, 156 Valletta 8, 50-75, 54-5, 5, INDEX INDEX St John’s Demi-Bastion 132 Skorba Temples 89 water polo 166 8, 64-5 St Julian’s 81-4, 82 water sports 18, 88, 138 Ta’Ħaġrat Temple 89 attractions 52-60 drinking 76 weights 174 Tarxien Temples 69-70 courses 60 ,S- food 76 Wied il-Għasri 144  theatres drinking & nightlife 32 Z highlights 77, 77 Astra Theatre 135 50, 63-7 Wignacourt Museum 110  travel seasons 76 Aurora Opera House 135 entertainment 67 Wignacourt Tower 97, 99 St Paul’s Bay 96-101 Malta 5D 60 food 50, 60, 62-3 windsurfing 36 St Paul’s Catacombs 110 Malta Experience 60 highlights 51, 51 wine 41-2 St Paul’s Cathedral 106 58 information 67-8 wineries St Peter’s Pool 120 St James’ Cavalier itineraries 53 Maria Rosa Winery 116 Centre for St Thomas Bay 122 shopping 67 Ta’ Mena 144 Creativity 67 stand-up paddleboard- tours 60 women in Malta 164 ing 36 Valletta Living History 60 travel seasons 50 WWII 160 Strait Street 68 theft 176 travel to/from 68 sweets 40-2 theme parks 44 travel within 68-9 swimming 34, 175-6, see Buġibba Water Park 97 X walking tours 59, 61, also beaches Popeye Village 90 Xagħra 143-5, 145 59, 61 Blue Lagoon 12, 148, Splash & Fun Park 102 Xemxija 92, 96 Valletta Film Festival 19 2, 12 Three Cities 70-5 Xemxija Heritage Trail 96 Vedette 75, 65 Il-Kalanka Bay 121 Tigné Point 78 Xerri’s Grotto 143-4 vegetarians 42 St Peter’s Pool 120 time 14, 176 Xewkija 137 Victoria Lines 102 tipping 175 Xghajra Smart City 70 Victoria (Rabat) 130-5, toilets 176 Xlendi 138-9 T 131, 94 Torri ta’Mġarr ix-Xini 136-7 Xlendi Walk 35 Ta’ Mena 144 viewpoints 17 tourist information 176 Xwieni Bay 141 Ta’Ċenċ 137-8 115-16 tours 182, see also boat Ta’Ċenċ sea cliffs 137 Villa Dragonara 81 Ta’Dbieġi Crafts Village 139 trips, diving tours, Y walking tours Villa Rundle Gardens 134 Ta’Ħaġrat Temple 89 yachting 178 Toy Museum 60 visas 14, 176 Ta’Kola Windmill 143 transport 26-7, 177-82 Vittoriosa 13, 70-5, 72-3, Ta’Qali Crafts Village 111 travel to/from Malta & 74, 13 Z Tarxien Temples 69-70 Gozo 15, 177-8 Żebbuġ 141 taxes 175 travel within Malta & Gozo Żurrieq 123-4 taxis 182 W 26-7, 178-82 walking 36-7 tea 42 Triton Fountain 60, 2 walking tours telephone 14, 176 TV 174

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Brett Atkinson Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand, but is frequently on the road for Lonely Planet. He’s a full-time travel and food writer specialising in adventure travel, unusual destinations and surprising angles on more well-known destinations. Craft beer and street food are Brett’s favourite reasons to explore places, and he is featured regularly on Lonely Planet’s website and in newspapers, magazines and websites across New Zealand and Australia. Since becoming a Lonely Planet writer in 2005, Brett has covered areas as diverse as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, the Czech Republic, New Zealand, Morocco, California and the South Pacific.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 7th edition – Feb 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 291 2 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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