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Clwydian Range Walking with Heather and Hillforts © Mick S © Mick Harp P Harp Hotography

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Clwydian Range Walking with Heather and Hillforts © Mick S © Mick Harp P Harp Hotography A view over the ramparts of the hillfort of Penycloddiau with the Vale of Clwyd and the distant summits of Snowdonia beyond 20 HERItaGE IN waLES l SPRING 2011 © Mick Sharp Photography Walking with heather and hillforts Fiona Gale, Denbighshire’s county archaeologist, leads a historic walk through the Clwydian Range waLKING WIth HEatHER AND HILLfoRTS © Mick S harp P hotography The heather-clad defences of Moel Arthur hillfort with Penycloddiau in the distance © R he summit of Penycloddiau, in the Beauty and, since then, increasing numbers ichard Jones, Countryside TClwydian Range of north Wales, offers a of people have come to enjoy the beauties superb panorama. Stretching around you are of the mountain heaths of the Clwydians the imposing ramparts of one of the largest and Llantysilio Mountain. Whilst this is a Iron Age hillforts in Wales. To the west, the matter for celebration, the influx of visitors land falls steeply away to the fertile fields of has sometimes led to habitat damage and S the Vale of Clwyd, with Denbigh only 5 miles erosion to the moorland environment. Sheep kills (3km) distant. In the opposite direction, lie can increase this damage, or, in some cases, Flintshire and the Dee Estuary. To the north- cause their own. west, the hills tumble gently down towards The need to manage access and use Prestatyn and the Irish Sea beyond. To the of the heather-clad uplands in the two south-east, the range rises to its highest point ranges, while promoting conservation and at Moel Famau (1,818 feet/554m) — public enjoyment, led to the launch of the crowned with the remains of the eighteenth- Heather and Hillforts Landscape Partnership century Jubilee Tower — before dropping to Scheme in 2007. Whilst still being farmed the steep-sided ravine of Nant y Garth Pass, and providing recreation for several million which divides the Clwydians from Llantysilio people who live within easy reach, the Mountain to the south. moorlands covered by the scheme include The construction of the floating ramp to Heather moorland cloaks the higher heather habitats of such value that some protect the slopes of Moel Fenlli reaches and, in late summer, turns a are protected within a Special Area of resplendent purple. The moorland is an Conservation. the south-western tip of Llantysilio Mountain important habitat for a wide range of The scheme also embraces six nationally near Corwen. Feet, both human and sheep, plant and animal species, including the important Iron Age hillforts — Penycloddiau; had taken their toll and, in places, paths were endangered black grouse and hen harrier. Moel Arthur; Moel y Gaer, Llanbedr; Moel cutting down into archaeological remains. Largely uninhabited and undisturbed for Fenlli; Moel y Gaer, Llantysilio; and Caer Innovative ‘floating’ ramps have now been centuries by little more than grazing sheep, Drewyn — and archaeological work has installed, protecting the archaeology below, the high moorland also preserves significant been amongst the highlights of the many without going into the ground, and providing archaeological sites, such as Bronze Age Heather and Hillforts projects carried out a safe surface for walking. barrows and, most impressively, Iron Age during the last three years. We have also carried out some hillforts. Extensive erosion repairs have been excavations. At Penycloddiau hillfort, where The special character of this landscape was undertaken at Moel Arthur and Moel Fenlli a barrow was being worn away by walkers, recognized in 1985 with the creation of the in the Clwydian Range, while work has been excavations have made us ninety-five per cent Clwydian Range Area of Outstanding Natural done on the route up to Caer Drewyn, at sure that it dates to the Bronze Age. Any trace HERItaGE IN waLES l SPRING 2011 0 of a central burial had been comprehensively removed in the Victorian period. To protect _2009_28 P what is left, it has been covered by a reconstruction of a barrow that we hope both 06900, A protects and interprets the feature. At Moel y Gaer, Llanbedr, students from NPRN Bangor University and Vienna worked with local volunteers under the direction of CAHMW – R Professor Ray Karl to excavate a section through the hillfort ramparts where a large sheep scrape needed repair. The excavation identified that the rampart, when built, was stone fronted and radiocarbon dating © Crown Copyright: showed that construction took place between 800 BC and 500 BC. There was also a deposit of highly burnt stone material within the rampart which may have been ritually deposited during construction. At Moel y Gaer, Llantysilio, a geophysical survey had hinted at extensive remains of roundhouses, but in a location that was An aerial view of the excavation of a section of the rampart of Moel y Gaer, Llanbedr exposed to a very real threat of damage Ordnance © R Penycloddiau and Moel Arthur eproduced by permission of Ordnance 2 Hillforts S To encourage Heritage in Wales readers to experience the Heather Walk urvey L and Hillforts landscape for themselves, here is one of the walks icence number 10002187 available from the scheme’s website: www.heatherandhillforts.co.uk. You will also find there other walks through the beautiful countryside around the hillforts Penycloddiau is one of the sites covered by a Heather and S urvey and on behalf of HM Hillforts audio heritage guide, which you can receive on your mobile phone at the site (01745 222123 — cost of a local call), or 0 Metres 500 download to your computer or .mp3 player from the Heather and 0 Yards 500 Hillforts website. Refreshment: The Kinmel S Before you start O. © Crown copyright All rights 2011. reserved. Arms, Waen (01824 790 291); 1 Distance: 7 miles (11.2km) The White Horse, Llandyrnog 1 Time: 4 /2 hours (01824 790582) 3 Map: OS Explorer 265 Conditions can change quickly Clwydian Range in the uplands. Wear sturdy Start/Parking: Llangwyfan car footwear. Take waterproofs, park (SJ 139668), 1.2 miles warm clothes, a compass, food (2km) north-east of Llangwyfan and a drink. 4 off the minor road to Nannerch Always follow the Terrain: Heather moorland with Countryside Code: steep ascents www.countrysidecodewales.org.uk The route of the walk The Walk edge, following Offa’s Dyke (towards mast), crossing a stile continue ahead. Follow this Path (ODP), signed with a and continuing to follow ODP clear track for about 11/2 miles 1. At the corner of white acorn. Continue up this for about 2/3 of a mile (1km). (2.5km), going through six Llangwyfan car park follow the path until you reach a stile on 2. At a pass crossed by gates, before reaching a road. signs for the Offa’s Dyke Path. the right. Cross onto the open unsurfaced green lanes, turn Turn left onto it. Take the right-hand forest moorland and continue to sharp left onto a track leaving . For a shorter route: Go track for a few yards/metres follow ODP over Penycloddiau ODP and ignoring the stile/gate 100 yards (100m) up the road, and then bear right onto a hillfort. From the summit follow to the right. Go through a then turn left onto a forest narrow path along the forest the stone path northwards gate and, at a track junction, track beside a yellow and black waLKING WIth HEatHER AND HILLfoRTS from illegal off-road vehicles. The Clwyd- © Denbighshire Countryside Powys Archaeological Trust and local volunteers conducted a small excavation and the remains of two roundhouses were found. Whilst we still await radiocarbon dates for these, the results highlight the site’s S ervices/Heather and Hillforts importance and the need to protect it and a campaign has taken place to lessen illegal off-road use. Archaeology is not the only aim of the scheme. Returning the heather habitat to a healthy condition is vitally important. The agri- environment scheme, Tir Gofal, gives graziers on the important upland landscapes of Moel Famau and Moel y Parc an incentive to maintain them. The moorlands of Llantysilio Mountain have been designated a Special Area of Conservation under the European Union’s Habitat Directive and funding has been arranged for their management. Other highlights relate to people. Parties of school children were taken back in time Schoolchildren meet a figure from Penycloddiau’s Iron Age past barrier. Follow this track uphill Penycloddiau strengthened with further lines. The fort had two back to Llangwyfan car park. entrances — one at the south and the other Follow the road around to the This massive hillfort encloses the entire southern midway along the eastern side — both flanked right for about 150 yards (150m) part of the summit ridge and is almost 1/2 mile by in-turned banks that allowed defenders to and, just after crossing a stream, (800m) long. Where the ground falls aways overlook anyone approaching the fort’s gates. turn right onto a track marked steeply, there is only a single line of ramparts, Archaeological surveys of the hillfort in 2004 with a horse rider sign. Go but on gentler approaches the defences are and 2008 have identified more than forty-three through a gate and follow the possible house platforms. Imagine the fort in path behind a partly built house. the late Iron Age filled with circular thatched Continue on the path, which roundhouses and protected with imposing timber contours around the hillside for defences atop the ramparts. about 11/4 miles (2km), going Recent excavations on the mound at the through four gates. After the highest point within the fort strongly supports its fourth, follow the path as it bears identification as a Bronze Age barrow. right, keeping the fence on the right.
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