When Chinese Cuisine Meets Western Wine 9 Q1 Shu-Tai Wang 11 Department of Hospitality Management, Tunghai University, P.O

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When Chinese Cuisine Meets Western Wine 9 Q1 Shu-Tai Wang 11 Department of Hospitality Management, Tunghai University, P.O Prod:Type:FTP ED: 5þ model IJGFS : 52 pp:029ðcol:fig::NILÞ PAGN: SCAN: Available online at www.sciencedirect.com International Journal of 1 Gastronomy and Food Science 3 International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science ] (]]]]) ]]]–]]] www.elsevier.com/locate/ijgfs 5 7 When Chinese cuisine meets western wine 9 Q1 Shu-Tai Wang 11 Department of Hospitality Management, Tunghai University, P.O. Box 891, Taichung 407, Taiwan 13 Received 7 March 2016; accepted 16 November 2016 15 17 Abstract 19 This study explores the guiding principle for pairing common western table wines such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with authentic Chinese cuisines. Sensory evaluation was carried out to measure the affective level on the pairing of food and wine. A fi 21 ve by eight (4 different wines and no wine pairing with 8 different cuisines) factorial experiment design was carried out to attain the sensory affection from the taste panel. Hedonic rating was adopted to assess the affective response of the cuisine and wine pairings. The results of affective test indicated that Riesling was the preferred wine to pair with most of the Chinese cuisines in question. The interaction was significant 23 between different cuisines and wines (p¼0.000), indicating that the hedonic sensory pattern of the cuisine can be influenced by the type of wine paired. In addition, Multidimensional Scaling (MDS) graph was proven to be an effective tool for visualizing the guiding principle of food and 25 wine pairing. & 2016 AZTI-Tecnalia. Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license 27 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). 29 Keywords: Sensory evaluation; Chinese cuisine; Wine pairing map; MDS graph 31 59 Introduction knowledge for the sommelier. Exploration on sensory percep- 33 tion on the pairing between Chinese cuisines and western 61 According to the statistics of per capita wine consumption, wines will provide a whole new dining experience and 35 French people consumed 43 liters of wine per capita; each business opportunities. Dodd (1996) found that placing wine 63 American drank 11 liters of wine; whereas the Chinese only on the food menu will have a significant impact on the sales of 37 consumed 1.3 liters per capita in 2013 (Wine Institute, 2015). wine, which greatly facilitated the revenue of a restaurant. The 65 Camillo (2012) stated that although the demand of wine sales of wine in a modern Chinese restaurant could easily 39 decreased in Europe, the demand continued to grow in Asia. account for 30–40% of the revenue. It becomes increasingly 67 China, in particular, had the sales growth of wine for more important for the practitioners in the hospitality industry to 41 than 30% within the 10 years period since 2001. Due to this have the knowledge in order to lead their customers for 69 high demand, the number of wine importers soared 73% in different dining pleasure. In order to extend the fun of mix 43 2012 (Mercer, 2012). In addition, wine pairing with meal and match in dining, the art of pairing western wine with food 71 became trendy in China and the major revenue was contributed will have to be extended from the western cuisines to different 45 from Chinese young customers. types of Chinese cuisines. 73 An experienced sommelier can easily recommend a good Wine was found to be strongly associated with food in three 47 pairing wine to western cuisine. However, there seems to be no dimensions: complementary, social meanings, and lubrication 75 certain guidelines for pairing wines with Chinese cuisines. The effect (Pittigrew and Charters, 2006). Lubrication effect refers 49 connection between the diverse flavors of Chinese cuisines and to the social interaction enhancement in a gathering influenced 77 western wines is a missing piece in the puzzle of the by the relaxation from the alcohol and the pleasant taste of 51 wine. A good pairing is based on the complementary role of 79 wine on the three important factors of food: components, 53 E-mail address: [email protected] Peer review under responsibility of AZTI-Tecnalia. texture, and flavors. The operational definition for the role of 81 55 http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2016.11.003 83 1878-450X/& 2016 AZTI-Tecnalia. Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license 57 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/). Please cite this article as: Wang, S.-T., When Chinese cuisine meets western wine. International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science (2016), http://dx.doi. org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2016.11.003 IJGFS : 52 2 S.-T. Wang / International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science ] (]]]]) ]]]–]]] 1 wine was the complementary effect on the flavor of a cuisine (Eastern) style “West Lake Fish in Vinegar Gravy”. If this fish 59 in this study. Though there were a few articles attempted to was deep fried, then sautéed with vinegar, rock sugar and soy 3 discuss the concept of pairing some Chinese foods with wines, sauce, it became the Cantonese style “Sweet and Sour Fish”. 61 qualitative and empirical studies are still in need to establish There are eight popular categories of cuisines corresponding 5 the appropriate matching between western wine and regional to different regions in China; these eight regions from the west 63 Chinese cuisines. In order to introduce Chinese cuisines inland to the northern region are: 1. Szechuan, 2. Hunan, 3. 7 pairing with wine in a more systematic manner, a model Fujian, 4. Cantonese, 5. Zhejiang, 6. Jiangsu, 7. Anhui, and 8. 65 integrated categorization, consumer affective test, and sum- Shandong (Anderson, 1988; Newman, 2004)asshowninFig. 1. 9 marized by the visual mapping was established to explore the In general, despite the central region, Chinese regional 67 pairing rules in this study. cuisines traditionally belong to four destinations. Inevitably, 11 The objectives of this study were to: the characteristics of the typical dishes of each region in Table 69 1 were distinctly different due to the geological barrier. With 13 1. Identify the best pairing between four popular wines with the improvement of transportation, the eight categories of 71 selected authentic Chinese cuisines cuisine merged into four general regions. The northern region 15 2. Establish a graphical method to elucidate the relationship such as Beijing was known for the dishes made by braising, 73 between cuisine and wine baking, and stewing (Newman, 2004). People from the north 17 3. Explore the potential of pairing wine with Chinese cuisine often have strong preference of pairing grain-made distilled 75 for younger diners liquor with their food. The cuisines from the other three 19 regions in Table 1 all have potential to be paired with wine 77 Chinese cuisine since the trend has been observed in various restaurants. For 21 instance, roast goose and salted goose wing are the popular 79 With the growing popularity and consumption of Chinese dishes in southern China. The marinated sauce for the goose 23 cuisines, various cuisines have been introduced to consumers contains light-color soy sauce and rock sugar that can 81 across the world both in casual fast food restaurants as well as eliminate the game odor and consequently promote the savory 25 in fine dining restaurants. Regardless of the level of service, taste of the goose. 83 the regional cuisines can be defined by their cooking styles, Eastern Chinese cuisines are often cooked with brown rock 27 ingredients, and tastes (Newman, 2004). Rozin (1982) cate- sugar and a special black vinegar to form a sweet, decent sour 85 gorized the authentic regional cuisines based on their primary and savory taste (Newman, 2004; Kittler and Sucher, 2008). 29 ingredients, cooking techniques, and unique flavoring princi- Chefs from Jiangsu or Zhejiang use freshwater fishes or 87 ples. It is generally recognized that Chinese cuisine is a shrimps with light seasoning, or seasoning with locally grown 31 combination of soy sauce, salt, sugar, chili sauce, garlic, green tea. It is characteristic to eastern cuisines that the fresh and 89 onion, and rice wine. However, with the addition of local original taste of the food is highlighted rather than being 33 produce, the combination of different ingredients and the overwhelmed by strong flavorings. 91 cooking skills gave the regional cuisine its unique taste. For Contrarily, a lot of spices were often applied in western 35 example, if a fish steamed with ginger, green onion, salt, rice cuisine to add the strong flavor in their food and also to get rid 93 wine and with local vinegar sauce, it will be a Zhejiang of the so-called “humidity” in their body. Cooking with red hot 37 95 8) Shandong cuisine: 39 Seafood with rich, umami flavor 97 Ex. Stewed dishes 41 99 43 101 1). Szechuan cuisine: spicy, numbing hot China 45 sensation 103 5). Zhejiang cuisine: Ex. Kongpao chicken 47 fresh water fish/shrimp 105 with light seasoning Ex. Sweet &sour fish 49 107 2) Hunan cuisine: 51 oily,piquant and intense 109 4) Cantonese cuisine: flavor savory, sweet and intense Ex. Smoked fish/ham 3)Fujian cuisine: flavor 53 fresh ingredients with original 111 Ex. Roast goose, Salted goose taste, seasoned with rock sugar wing 55 Ex. Emulsion fish ball 113 Fig. 1. Origins and the characteristics of the regional cuisines. 57 115 Please cite this article as: Wang, S.-T., When Chinese cuisine meets western wine. International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science (2016), http://dx.doi. org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2016.11.003 IJGFS : 52 S.-T.
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