cooperi is primarily from Peru. Colors range from burnished brass to chocolate brown. Grower: Greg Allikas.

The Beginner’s Guide to Growing Don Garling. Catasetums, Cycnoches and Clowesias Understanding the Growth Cycle is Key to Success

greg allikas text and photographs by fred clarke

www.AOS.org march 2012 orchids 167 One of the best ways to know and vandas at about 2,500–4,000 foot- how to grow an orchid genus is to un- candles; this is where a strong shadow will derstand the conditions under which they be cast by your hand when held 12 inches grow naturally. Catasetinae — a group that (30 cm) above the . For under-lights includes the genera , Cycnoches culture, the foliage should be as close to and — live where there are two the light source as possible without burn- distinct weather patterns: a hot, humid and ing the leaves. rainy monsoonal summer followed by a Temperatures Summer: days 70–95 dry, cool winter. Catasetinae have F (21–35 C), nights 60–75 F (16–24 C). adapted to these weather conditions by Winter: days 60–75 F (16–24 C), nights having a growth phase in the summer fol- 55–65 F (13–18 C). lowed by a rest period or dormancy when Air Movement Plants in the Cataseti- the leaves yellow and drop off in winter. nae, like almost all orchids, do best with When the plants are dormant, little or no abundant air movement, so give plenty water is needed as the pseudobulbs store of it. enough moisture and nutrients to survive Repotting and Dividing Do this when 1 the dormancy period until summer. the new growth is just starting to develop SEASON BY SEASON Catasetinae and before the new roots start to show (re- plant culture is not difficult. The plants’ member no watering until the roots are well vegetative state signals to the grower their established, about 3–5 inches long). Unlike changing needs. Interpret the signals and most orchid plants, catasetums do well make the appropriate cultural adjustments. when divided into pieces with two pseudo- Here is what to look for: bulbs. Divisions are made by cutting with Early Season the plants begin their a sterile tool or by pulling the pseudobulbs new growth in early spring. This next sen- apart. I try to keep the size of my plants tence is very important: Watering begins af- between two and five pseudobulbs. ter the new growth has well-developed new Potting Mix and Containers For ma- roots approximately 3–5 inches (7.5–12.5 ture plants, use a 3:1 mix of fine bark and cm) long. I believe that Catasetinae roots medium perlite. For seedlings up to a 3-inch deteriorate during dormancy and in the fol- (7.5-cm) pot size, New Zealand sphagnum lowing year they are not as effective at taking moss works well with the bottom ⅓ of the up moisture. This makes the new root system pot filled with styrofoam peanuts. Plastic vital in the plant’s health. So, wait to water pots work great, but clay pots, baskets and until the new roots are 3–5 inches long. cork slabs will also work. Do not overpot Mid Season This is the growth period catasetums. Select a pot size that will allow 2 when the plants are rapidly developing their for two to three years of growth. new pseudobulbs, so for the next three to Insect Pests Catasetinae are gener- four months, water like a monsoon. The ally free of pests. However, spider mites plants require constant moisture; in most are attracted to the soft leaves of these cases irrigation will be needed two or three plants. Spider mites are quite small and times a week. Fertilize with a balanced fer- may be hard to see with the naked eye. tilizer used at ½ strength for each watering. They live and feed on the undersides of Light levels like those given to cattleyas the leaves. Try using a magnifying glass will help ensure strong, good growth and or try rubbing the underside of the leaf flowering. This is the time when the fruits with a tissue and look for them on the tis- of your labor will begin to pay off, as the sue. Take care in checking for them while flowering season will be underway soon. the plants are leafing out and control them Late Season In the late autumn the with a recommended miticide from your plants will begin to enter the dormancy garden center. phase. The signals of dormancy are the yellowing and browning of the leaves. Fred Clarke owns and operates Sunset At this time, stop fertilizing and reduce Valley Orchids. He has been growing watering by half and when most leaves are and hybridizing orchids for more than 30 yellow-brown and have dropped off, cease years. His pioneering work with Catasetum 3 watering altogether. A general rule to follow intergeneric hybrids led to the development is: by November 15th, stop fertilization and of the grex Fredclarkeara After Dark (Mo. Diversity to be found in the Catasetinae: reduce watering by half. By January 1st, Painted Desert × Ctsm. Donna Wise), [1] Catasetum pileatum ‘SVO Independence’. most leaves should have yellowed or fallen which produced “the blackest flowers ever [2] Catamodes Dragons Tail ‘Dark Tale’ (Ctsm. off so stop all watering altogether. This is witnessed.” He is an AOS accredited judge denticulatum × Morm. ignea). the dormant period. in the Pacific South Judging Region and is [3] Clowesetum (Cl. Rebecca Northen × BASIC CULTURE a popular speaker. Vista, California. (email Ctsm. Mark Dimmitt ‘Freckles’). Grower for Light These plants do best with light [email protected]; website all plants: Fred Clarke. levels comparable to those given cattleyas www.sunsetvalleyorchids.com).

168 Orchids march 2012 www.AOS.org Knowing When to Water

Early Season Begins do not water Early Season Continues continue Mid Season Begin watering when when new growth is just starting. to withhold water when new growth the new growth and roots are 3–5 and new roots are at this stage. inches (7.5–10 cm) long.

Late Season Yellowing leaves indi- Dormancy do not water when cate the first signs of dormancy. At a plant is dormant (leafless). this time, reduce watering by 50 — Text and Photographs by percent. Fred Clarke.

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