NORTHEAST 357 Túristvándi Szatmárcseke © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Csaroda Tákos Máriapócs Park You Can Soak in Four Ő Nyíregyháza
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© Lonely Planet Publications 357 Northeast If you want to experience Hungarian village life – steeped in folk culture, replete with dirt roads, horse-drawn carts and little old churches – the Northeast is the place. Traditions are long-kept in the Bereg Region, where some women still eke out a living embroider- ing pillowcases in age-old patterns, and men work the land. Rural folk art, churches and a cemetery resembling a ‘shipyard’ of grave markers are the attractions here. Hospitality is at its height in the furthest corners of the Northeast; you’ll never be welcomed into even the poorest home without a shot of pálinka (fruit-based firewater that Hungarians call ‘brandy’) and a chocolate. Not far off, the larger towns of Nyírség have history to offer and more ecclesiastical treas- ures – Nyírbátor prides itself on not one but two noteworthy, originally Gothic churches, and the iconic art in Máriapócs is downright miraculous. Since distances are short (and regional transport so inadequate) a great way to explore is to hire a car and trip out from the capi- tal, Nyíregyháza. The spa town with a pleasant pedestrian centre has most of the creature NORTHEAST comforts, and a few activities of its own. In the leafy Sóstófürdő park you can soak in four different thermal-bath complexes and step into the region’s village past at an excellent open- air museum. Here in the Northeast, remembrances of rural life are never far from mind. HIGHLIGHTS Staying the night in a peaceful rural village like Csaroda ( p366 ) or Túristvándi ( p366 ) Gazing at the patterns on the painted Csaroda wooden ceiling in the ‘peasant’s cathedral’ Tákos in Tákos ( p365 ) Szatmárcseke Túristvándi Walking between the bizarre boat-shaped grave markers in Szatmárcseke’s cemetery Nyíregyháza ( p366 ) Máriapócs Being awed by the gilt iconostasis and ornate painting at the Greek Catholic Cathedral ( p362 ) in Máriapócs Immersing yourself in the thoroughly modern Aquarius Adventure Baths before having dinner on a lakeside terrace in Nyíregyháza ( p358 ) 358 NYÍRSÉG REGION •• Nyíregyháza lonelyplanet.com 0 30 km NORTHEAST 0 20 miles E50 S L O V A K I A Muka‹eve Csop Slovenské 3 Nové Mesto Sátoraljaújhely Záhony E71 Zemplén Hills 37 Dámoc 4 Lónya Sárospatak River U K R A I N E Karcsa E573 Mándok Encs BORSOD-ABAÚJ- Cigánd ZEMPLÉN Tisza River Bodrog Tiszacsermely Dombrád 37 Tisza Kisvárda Berehove River Vámosatya Tiszatelek SZABOLCS- Tákos 41 Gávavencsellª SZATMÁR- Csaroda BEREG Szerencs Rakamaz Tarpa Tokaj Vásárosnamény Gergelyiugornya Tiszabecs Ibrány Demecser Tivadar Szatmárcseke Petneháza Kemecse Kisar Túristvándi River Kótaj 41 Túr Tisza Székely Szamos R 4 Kraszna iv er 38 Baktalórántháza 491 Tiszalök E573 Vaja Fehérgyarmat NYÍREGYHÁZA 49 Tiszavasvári 41 River Garbolc Mátészalka 36 River Jánkmajtis Ököritófülpös Tiszaújváros M3 Máriapócs Csengersima Nagykálló 471 49 Hajdúnánás Nagygéc Polgár Nyírbátor Csenger Újfehértó Satu Mare Hajdúdorog Mérk Balkány 35 Bátorliget E81 HAJDÚ- Nyírmihálydi Carei BIHAR Hajdúhadház Nyíradony Hajdúböszörmény 4 ὈὈBalmazújváros 471 R O M A N I A M35 E573 Hortobágy DEBRECEN NORTHEAST NORTHEAST Getting There & Around NYÍREGYHÁZA The best way to see the small region is under %42 / pop 116,800 ὈὈyour own steam, be it by car, motorbike or You have to look at Nyíregyháza from the bicycle. The Hungarian world to the west inside out: stand in the old town centre is connected by rail to Nyíregyháza, and and notice the checkerboard of well-tended from there by really slow train to towns like squares and gardens; survey the forests, Nyírbátor and Vásárosnamény. Though vil- pavilions and reedy shore at the park in lages are fairly close together, bus services in Sóstófürdő (Salt Lake Thermal Baths). The Bereg are hardly worth mentioning. problem is, what rings these pleasant views Note that areawide information is avail- is the ugly high-rises and industrial archi- able at the county Tourinform office in tecture of a commercial and administrative Nyíregyháza ( opposite ) and at www.tour centre. Still, give Nyíregyháza a chance; the inform.szabolcs.net. town’s spas and low-key lifestyle make up for the ugliness. And this is the most citi- fied springboard for visiting other towns NYÍRSÉG REGION and villages in the Northeast region. The largest region of those that make up the History Northeast, Nyírség (Birch) Region contains For centuries Nyíregyháza was the private the major towns and therefore the majority of domain of Transylvanian princes. Under museums and city-bound attractions. Grassy Soviet rule the town prospered due to the steppes and hills stretch out from the main city establishment of a food-processing industry of Nyíregyháza, where you can soak in four in the area. After a downturn, Nyíregyháza different thermal complexes, to Nyírbátor, a has recently remade itself as something of a small city rich in history. Don’t miss the Greek holiday destination, spiffing up its thermal Catholic Cathedral in Máriapócs. bathing complexes north of town..