CHEESE everything but the moo

PgO Everything but the Moo It’s a new era for nondairy cheese. By Robert Wemischner

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ir Isaac Newton may not have had the world of specialty food in mind when he said that “every action has an equal and opposite reaction,” but some of the same logic seems to be at play in the world of food, particularly in the growing corner occupied by artisanal cheese.s One cannot consider the meteoric rise of small-scale dairy-based cheesemaking in this country without giving a nod to the burgeoning category of nondairy cheese. Nondairy cheeses are being hungrily incorporated into the diets of vegans, vegetarians and others who wish to enjoy some of the pleasures of real cheese without the offending dairy ingredients. Many are nut-based rather than dairy-based, but cultured and shaped to resemble classic European cheeses in a bid to gain the attention of a broad audience. Unlike the often unpalatable nondairy cheeses born out of the counterculture hippie fringe of 40 years ago, today there is a wide range of nondairy cheese products, some based on soy, rice or

coconut milk, some containing lactose and casein, and others that are soft and creamy versions PHOTO CREDITS Previous page: Kevin Deseuste, 2014; top: Kunstadt; bottom, left to right: Photography © Liza Gershman, 2013; opposite: Patrick M. Gookin II enlivened with herbs and based on cashews, almonds, macadamia or Brazil nuts. There are soft nut-based cheeses with the texture and nearly the taste of fresh ricotta, and rounds that can be cut like semisoft cheese, cultured, molded and even aged like their dairy counterparts. “Our nut-based cheeses are some of the first of their kind to be displayed next to the classic European cheeses,” says Monte Casino, cheesemaker at Kite Hill, Hayward, California. “Just as dairy cheese producers pride themselves on making farmstead varieties using the milk produced by cows, goats or sheep grazing on their property, we are in control of all of the processes of production, starting with making our own nut milk based on almonds and macadamia nuts.” Using natural cultures, which brings down the pH of the nut milk, Kite Hill can create a curd, a process analogous to dairy-based cheesemaking. The resulting coagulated curd is shaped, pressed and brined for varying periods of time, depending on the kind of cheese the company is aiming to make. This sounds a lot like what artisanal dairy cheesemakers say when describing their processes and systems. More artisanal-made options With his tree-nut cheese company Dr-Cow, Brooklyn, New York, Pablo Castro has been pioneer- ing in the field of nondairy cheeses for the past eight years. “What we make is all USDA organic,

Previous page: Kite Hill’s ricotta-style cheese, made from almond milk, has sweet overtones and a buttery finish. Top: Cheeses from tree-nut cheese company Dr-Cow are certified USDA organic, contain no animal products, and are lactose-free and 100% vegan. Bottom, left to right: This creamy, soft fresh cheese from Kite Hill can be spread on crackers or paired with olives, nuts, pickled vegetables or fresh fruit.

38 The National Culinary Review • November/December 2014 starting with cashews, Brazil nuts and macadamia nuts, yielding a spreadable creamy cheese that is totally lactose-free, contains no animal products and is 100% vegan,” Castro says. Himalayan pink salt is the seasoning of choice for Castro, whose storefront in Brooklyn not only sells his tree-nut cheeses, but in-house-made granolas (his first foray into the organic specialty food realm) and other products labeled as gluten-, soy-, dairy- and animal-free, and vegan, using 100% certified organic and unprocessed ingredients.

Something for everyone If nut allergies present a problem (an estimated 3 million Americans suffer from peanut and tree-nut allergies combined), there’s room for plenty of variety in the nondairy cheese world apart from nut-based products, as evidenced by the extensive line from GO Veggie!, North Kingstown, Rhode Island. Unlike nut-based cheeses, the company’s nondairy cream cheese is a blend of coconut and sunflower oils with some starch and gum for thickening. The product, with the mouthfeel and spreadability of its dairy- based analogue, is available in institutional sizes. It captured the attention of Heather Goldberg and Jenny Engel, chefs/founders of Spork Foods, Los Angeles, who have developed recipes using a number of nondairy cheeses. Proving that restaurants can easily Strawberry Cream Cheese Stuffed French Toast add a vegan option to their established breakfast and brunch menus, Spork Foods // Los Angeles they love the challenge of training chefs from mainstream restau- Yield: 4-6 servings rants to adapt nonvegan dishes by using nondairy cheeses, drawing inspiration from the GO Veggie! line. ¾ cup spelt flour ¼ cup unbleached all-purpose flour 2) In large bowl, combine cream Jamie Schapiro, director of marketing, characterizes his 1 t. nonaluminum baking powder cheese alternative and finely chopped company’s offerings as being pitched to a mass, largely nonvegan ¾ t. sea salt, divided strawberries. Add brown rice syrup, ¾ t. ground cinnamon, divided ¼ t. cinnamon, ¼ t. sea salt, market filled with individuals identified as lactose-intolerant who ¼ t. ground allspice ½ t. vanilla extract and lemon juice; are seeking a heart-healthy lifestyle and diet, or who are deter- 2 T. maple syrup whisk with fork to combine. mined to cut some animal fat from their diets and are dipping into 1½ t. vanilla extract, divided 1 t. almond extract 3) Put sliced strawberries in separate the world of nondairy cheese as their point of entry. 1¹⁄³ cups unsweetened almond milk bowl. Forward-thinking chefs in all segments of foodservice—from or soymilk institutional foodservice, including college venues, and casual and Grated zest of 1 lemon 4) Slice boule or loaf into 2-inch- 2 T. neutral-tasting high-heat oil + thick slices. Cut into each slice multi-daypart restaurants to finer dining operations—would be additional for coating pan horizontally to form pocket without well-advised to follow the trend. 1 container GO Veggie! Dairy Free cutting all the way through. And judging from the space devoted to nondairy cheeses Classic Plain Cream Cheese Alternative 5) Preheat griddle or pan to medium- in mainstream and health-oriented supermarkets, it seems a 4-5 strawberries, finely chopped high. Grease with oil. safe bet to delve deeper into making room on menus to include 2 T. brown rice syrup Dash fresh lemon juice 6) Stuff each bread slice with items that are dairy-free. Start slowly, gauge the response and 8-10 strawberries, sliced strawberry cream cheese and a few fine-tune the menu accordingly. 1 large spelt boule (round loaf) or sliced strawberries. Coat each slice French bread in batter; put on griddle or hot pan. Cook until bottom is slightly golden 1) In medium bowl, whisk together and edges look dry, 2-3 minutes. Flip; flours, baking powder, ½ t. sea salt, cook 2-3 minutes, or until golden. ½ t. cinnamon and allspice. Add Robert Wemischner (www.RobertWemischner.com) teaches professional baking maple syrup, 1 t. vanilla extract, 7) Let French toast cool 3-5 minutes at Los Angeles Trade-Technical College and is the author of four books, most almond extract, almond milk or before cutting. Slice in half with recently, The Dessert Architect (Cengage Learning, 2010). He is currently at work soymilk, lemon zest and 2 T. oil. diagonal cut for best presentation. on his fifth book. Whisk until smooth (do not over-mix).

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